The development principle of the automotive industry is regular engineering improvement and full satisfaction of customer requirements. The Japanese concern Toyota has followed this rule for more than one generation of cars. Toyota Corolla 150 body is no exception. Technical characteristics of Toyota Corolla 2008 allowed the car to become the sales leader in the world market. The Toyota Corolla E150 has taken a strong position. The popular sedan was released in 2006 for the 40th anniversary. In terms of technical equipment, the Corolla in the 150th body was very different from its predecessors.
Restyling Toyota Corolla 150
Toyota 1NR-FE engine
Toyota Corolla 2007 has been in great demand since the beginning of production, motorists prefer this car, which has reliability, safety and a good set of technical characteristics.
Toyota designers and engineers take care of the car drivers. The car is equipped with everything you need to make your travels comfortable and pleasant at any time of the year.
To perform basic functions a car equipped with 4-cylinder engines with low fuel consumption.
In Russia, officially, Corolla E150 cars were sold only with gasoline engines and front-wheel drive. Cars with diesel engines were also supplied to Europe.
The 10th generation Toyota Corolla sedan could officially be bought with three engines:
- 1.3 l, gasoline 1NR-FE 101 hp, manual transmission, cylinder diameter - 7.25 cm, piston stroke - 8 cm, compression ratio - 11.5 to 1, maximum torque - 132 Nm.;
- 1.4 l, gasoline 4ZZ-FE 97 Horse power, Manual transmission, cylinder diameter - 7.9 cm, piston stroke - 7.1 cm, compression ratio as in 1.3-liter modification, torque limit - 130 Nm.;
- 1.6 l, gasoline, 1ZR-FE 124 horses, manual transmission, automatic transmission or robot, cylinder diameter - 8 cm, piston stroke - 7.8 cm, compression ratio - 10.2 to one, maximum torque - 157 Nm.
Moto Corolla
After restyling in 2010, only two engines remained, 1.3 and 1.6 liters. Models with both types of engines show good efficiency: 6-7 liters of consumption per hundred km.
Toyota Corolla 150 transmissions
In 2010, the Toyota Corolla in the back of the E150 was finalized in terms of some technical characteristics, interior and exterior of the car. On Russian market supplied machines with a six-speed mechanical box or 4АКПП.
Feed Toyota Corolla 150
Selected Toyota models Back in 2008, Corolla was equipped with a transmission - a robot. But the work did not suit motorists. Frequent complaints led to the transfer of the Corolla to an automatic transmission.
The robot was no longer installed on the restyled Corolla E150 models.
The technical characteristics of the Toyota Corolla on the automatic transmission differed from the mechanics of 2008, with a slightly increased fuel consumption per hundred kilometers.
Suspension
Basic specifications Corolla 10 generations are distinguished by a high level, including the suspension. A-pillars - MacPheron, a torsion beam is used on the rear axle. The simple design guarantees comfort, reliability and durability on roads that are not in perfect condition. Technical specifications suspensions add acceptable agility to the Corolla sedan, as evidenced by numerous positive reviews car owners.
Toyota Corolla 150 after the update
Toyota Corolla cars, released in 2011, stood out from the spinning generations with a modified body, an updated interior and a semi-independent suspension. Front - these are Macferon L-lever-shaped struts, but already with the stabilizer installed lateral stability... A beam with a device for absorbing irregularities on the roads was placed at the back. The suspension of this car model is considered the most durable and can withstand more than hundreds of thousands of kilometers without expensive repairs.
Technical characteristics of the 2011 Toyota Corolla combined with a high ground clearance (150mm) provide a comfortable ride on bumpy roads.
Tires and rims
The 2011 Toyota Corolla compact car has three basic configurations: basic (CE), comfortable (LE) and sports (S).
The CE model includes the required standard set of specifications and options. In particular, tire pressure monitoring system, steel rims in size 195/65 R15... Some modifications were equipped with steel alloy wheels 205/55 R16... The sports Corolla was equipped with 16-inch alloy wheels.
How do you like these discs for the Corolla 150?
In Europe, wheels were installed in sizes R15, 16 and 17. In the American market, Toyota Corolla of the 10th generation was sold with 18-inch wheels.
Corolla body 150
Toyota Corolla E150 is produced only in the sedan body, the technical characteristics of which are slightly different from the cars of previous generations. The rigidity of the body was increased, which increased the weight of the car. The weight of the 2008 Toyota Corolla is almost 1.3 tons, taking into account the internal equipment and various trim levels... Rigidity allowed to increase the safety of the car, this was facilitated by the use of high-strength steel.
Dimensions Toyota Corolla 150
The dimensions of the tenth generation sedan were slightly increased in contrast to the previous model E120: length - 4.54 m, width - 1.76 m, height - 1.47 m.The wheelbase of the Toyota Corolla (2008) is 2.6 m., ground clearance(clearance) - 0.15 m. With an increase in the size of the car, the volume of the trunk also increased to 450 liters.
The size of the Corolla cabin in the back 150
If necessary, the clearance of the Toyota Corolla can be raised by spacers under the shock absorbers. The ride height will increase, but the vehicle will no longer be stable when driving at high speeds and will lose agility. You can reduce the ground clearance by replacing the factory shock absorbers with tuning ones. In this case, the car will become more controllable.
Black Corolla on huge wheels.
Restyling Corolla E150 in 2010 made the car the safest for drivers, passengers and pedestrians. This is confirmed by the crash tests carried out. The machine is equipped with active and passive systems security.
Fuel consumption
Volume fuel tank Toyota Corolla 2008 release is 55 liters. Most of the gasoline versions of the car use AI-95 fuel, the previous generations also fuel the 92nd.
Swift Toyota Corolla 150
Fuel consumption (liters) of 3 variations of Corolla E150 at different types driving (suburban / urban / mixed cycle) for a hundred kilometers:
- 1NR-FE 1.3L: 4.9 / 7.3 / 5.8;
- 4ZZ-FE 1.4L: 5.7 / 8.6 / 6.7;
- 1ZR-FE 1.6L: 5.8 / 8.9 / 6.9;
- 2ZR-FE 1.8: 6 / 9.3 / 7.2.
Diesel cars consume 4.4 liters, 7 liters and 5.3 liters, respectively. Such parameters are typical for the Corolla with a manual transmission. Automatic machines in such modes consume more, which indicates the efficiency of modifications with a diesel unit.
Corolla 150 may look epic)
For comparison, the 2007 Toyota Corolla gasoline consumption per 100 km when driving in the city is 9.9 liters, on the highway - 6.5 liters.
Dynamics
Toyota Corolla cars released in 2010 show high quality like past generations. But they differ in new technical characteristics: modern design, comfortable interior and excellent dynamics.
Toyota Corolla 150 dorestyle
Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Major car malfunctions - part 1
DROP IN COOLANT LEVEL IN EXPANSION TANK
Diagnostics | Elimination methods | |
---|---|---|
Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, loosening of their fit on the pipes | Inspection. The tightness of the radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar | Replace damaged parts |
Fluid leaking through the coolant pump oil seal | Inspection | Replace pump |
The cylinder head gasket is damaged. Defective block or cylinder head | There is a whitish emulsion on the oil level indicator. The appearance of abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine | Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for the climatic conditions |
EXTERNAL NOISES AND KNOCKS IN THE ENGINE
Scroll possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Check the clearances | Adjust clearances | |
Repair the engine | ||
The timing belt is worn out. Defective idler or support rollers of the drive | Inspection | Replace the belt. Replace the faulty timing idler or support rollers |
Wear on bearings and cams camshaft, connecting rod and main bearings crankshaft, pistons, piston pins, play or sticking in generator bearings, coolant pumps and power steering | Examination | Repair or replacement of parts |
Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more supports power unit | Inspection | Replace support |
Low pressure in the oil line (at the minimum speed of the crankshaft at idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 1.0 bar) | Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting the pressure gauge to the oil line, unscrewing the oil pressure sensor | Troubleshoot the lubrication system |
Worn oil pump drive chain | Checking the chain tension after removing the oil pan | Replace the oil pump drive chain |
STRONG ENGINE VIBRATION
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Unevenness of compression in the cylinders of more than 2.0 bar: clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, burial or breakage piston rings | Checking the compression. Compression must be at least 11.0 bar | |
Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "breakdown" of the ignition coil winding and high voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years | |
The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected | Inspection | Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coil |
Check the candles | Replace defective spark plugs | |
Open or short circuit in the injector windings or their circuits | Check with an ohmmeter the windings of the injectors and their circuits | |
The support of the power unit has lost its elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened | Inspection | Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
INCREASED CONTENT OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES IN EXHAUST GASES
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and spray pattern of the nozzles | Contaminated nozzles can be flushed out on a special stand. Replace leaking and heavily soiled nozzles |
Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | To check the high-voltage wires and the ignition coil, replace them with a known good one. | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts, alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years |
Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the center electrode | Check the candles | Replace defective spark plugs |
Defective air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit | Use a tester to check if the sensor is working properly. | |
Defective coolant temperature sensor | Replace defective sensor | |
Check if the position sensor is working throttle | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | |
Defective oxygen concentration sensor or its circuits | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of its electrical connections using diagnostic equipment | |
Defective absolute air pressure sensor and its circuits | You can check the health of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
Defective ECU or its circuits | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective ECU | |
Leakage of the exhaust system in the area between the exhaust manifold and the front pipe | Inspection at medium speed of the crankshaft | Replace defective gasket, tighten threaded connections |
Defective catalytic converter of exhaust gases | You can check the serviceability of the catalytic converter of the exhaust gases using diagnostic equipment | Replace the catalytic converter |
Increased pressure in fuel system due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Inspection, check with a pressure gauge pressure in the fuel system (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle | |
Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check item air filter, inlet tract (absence of foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
Large amounts of oil entering the engine combustion chambers due to worn or damaged valve stem seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after disassembling the engine | Repair the engine |
The clutch does not fully engage (slips)
Driven disc pads are badly worn | Replace driven disc |
Oiling the flywheel, drive disc, friction linings | Wash the driven and driving discs with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace oil seals) |
Breakage of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
The diaphragm spring of the driving disc is faulty |
Clutch does not disengage (leads)
Possible reasons malfunctions | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Air in the hydraulic clutch release | Bleed the clutch release hydraulic actuator |
Misalignment or warpage of the driven disc | Replace driven disc |
Diaphragm spring petals wear at the point of contact with release bearing | Replace drive disc assembly |
Seizing the hub of the driven disc on the splines input shaft gearbox | Inspect the splines; if the hub is severely damaged, replace the driven disc. Before assembly, coat the gearbox shaft splines with SHRUS-4 grease. |
The driven disc is "stuck" to the flywheel or drive disc (after a long stay) | Place wheel chocks, engage first gear and the parking brake. Squeezing the brake and clutch pedals at the same time, turn the engine crankshaft with the starter |
The clutch pedal "falls through" or is pressed very easily
Jerks when starting off
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Oiling of the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disc | Remove the driven and driving discs, wash the parts with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace the gearbox or engine oil seal) |
The friction linings of the driven disc are badly worn | Replace driven disc |
Settling or breakage of the springs of the torsional vibration damper, wear of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
Deformation of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
Loss of elasticity of the driven disc springs | Replace driven disc |
Sticking of the driven disc on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, severe wear of the splines of the disc hub | If the splines of the hub are severely worn, replace the driven disc. Apply grease SHRUS-4 to the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox |
Broken clutch diaphragm spring | Replace drive disc assembly |
Defective support of the power unit | Inspect supports, replace faulty |
Noise when disengaging or engaging the clutch
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Clutch pedal bushings wear | Remove the pedal, replace the bushings of its axle |
Heavy settlement, breakage of torsional vibration damper springs | Replace driven disc |
Looseness or breakage of the friction linings of the driven disc | Replace driven disc |
Severe wear or damage to the clutch release bearing | Replace bearing assembly with slave cylinder |
Noise in the gearbox (noise disappears when the clutch is disengaged)
Gearbox noise (noise when driving in a specific gear)
Transmissions are difficult to turn on
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Defective clutch | Diagnose faults with clinging |
Defective (torn, loose, stuck in the sheath) selection cable or gearshift cable | Replace the defective cable |
Replace mechanism | |
Worn or damaged gearshift mechanism | |
Gear synchronizers worn out | Repair or replace the transmission |
Gears are spontaneously switched off
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Worn gearshift mechanism | Repair or replace the transmission |
Worn or damaged gearbox control mechanism | Diagnose the problem "Transmissions are included with difficulty" |
Worn out clutches of gears of gearbox synchronizers | Repair or replace the transmission |
Oil leak from the box
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Worn out oil seals of the input shaft, gearshift mechanism or wheel drive shafts | Replace defective oil seal |
Oil leakage through the crankcase joints | Repair the transmission |
Oil leak through the sensor reverse and vehicle speed sensor | Install the reverse sensor to the sealant. Replace speed sensor rubber o-rings |
Leakage of working fluid of an automatic transmission
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Transmission fluid leaking through the oil pan seal | Fluid leaks on the transmission housing. Tighten the pallet fixing screws, replace the pallet gasket |
Liquid leaks from the level indicator | Insert the pointer as far as it will go, replace if necessary |
Fluid leaks from the coolant tube fittings | Tighten the fittings |
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT DRIVING RATE. JUNCTIONS AND SLOPES WHEN MOVING
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged piping, check the condition of the catalytic converter (back pressure) (STO) | ||
Suction of extraneous air into the intake tract | Inspect the joints, check the fit of the throttle assembly, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors. Disconnect for a short time vacuum amplifier brake by plugging the inlet pipe union | Replace gaskets, O-rings, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster |
Incomplete throttle opening | Determined visually with the engine stopped | Adjust the throttle actuator |
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): worn or damaged valves, their guides and seats, stuck or broken piston rings | Check the compression | Replace defective parts |
The gaps between the electrodes of the candles are not correct | Check the clearances | By bending the side electrode, set the required gap or replace the spark plugs |
Heavy carbon deposits on spark plug electrodes; the ingress of carbon particles into the gap between the electrodes | Inspection | Check and replace if necessary |
Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits | Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires | |
Not enough fuel in the tank | Fuel level indicator and fuel reserve indicator | Add fuel |
Clogged fuel filter, the water that has got into the power system has frozen, deformed fuel pipes | Check the pressure in the fuel system | Replace the fuel filter. In winter, place the car in warm garage, blow out fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
The fuel pump does not create the required pressure in the system | Check the pressure in the fuel system, make sure the filter of the fuel module is clean | Clean the fuel module strainer. Defective fuel pump, replace pressure regulator |
Poor power contact fuel pump(including ground wires) | Checked with an ohmmeter | Strip the contacts, crimp the lugs of the wires, replace the faulty wires |
Faulty injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit and short circuit) | Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
Air temperature sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check the sensor and its circuits | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
Defective absolute air pressure sensor or its circuits | You can evaluate the performance of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor | ||
Defective ECU or its circuit | To check the ECU, replace it with a known good one. | Replace defective ECU |
Valve clearances not adjusted | ||
Heavy wear on the camshaft cams | Inspection when disassembling the engine at the service station | Replace the worn out camshaft at the service station |
Settling or breakage of valve springs | Inspection when disassembling the engine | |
The throttle position sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check Throttle Position Sensor | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
Coolant temperature sensor defective | Use a tester to check the resistance of the sensor at different temperatures | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
COTTONS IN INLET PIPE
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Valve clearances not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve drive clearances |
Intake valves sticking in guide bushings: resinous deposits on the surface of the valve stem or bushing, sludge or broken valve springs | Inspection during disassembly of the engine (STO) | Repair the engine (SRT) |
The valve timing is violated | Check valve timing | Install the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshaft. Check the compression |
SHOTS IN THE SILENCER
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Valve clearances not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve drive clearances |
Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear on the valve stem or bushing, sludge or broken valve springs | Inspection when disassembling the engine | Have the engine repaired at a service station |
The valve timing is violated | Check valve timing | Establish the correct relative position of the shafts. Check the compression |
Candles are checked at a special stand (STO). The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude about its performance | Replace candles | |
Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | Using an ohmmeter, check for an open or "breakdown" (short to "ground") of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (while disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
Injectors defective | Check the operation of the injectors |
INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (MORE THAN 500 G PER 1000 KM RUN)
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft oil seals; oil pan gaskets, cylinder heads; oil pressure sensor; oil filter o-ring | Wash the engine, then, after a short run, inspect for possible leaks. | Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
Wear, loss of elasticity of the valve stem seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings | Inspection of parts when disassembling the engine | Replace worn parts |
Worn, broken or coking (loss of mobility) piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders | Inspection and measurement of parts after disassembling the engine | Replace worn pistons and rings. Waste and honed cylinders |
Using oil with inappropriate viscosity | - | Change oil |
Clogged crankcase ventilation system | Inspection | Clean the ventilation system |
INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Replacement air filter element clogged | Check the condition of the replacement air filter element | Purge or replace replacement air filter element |
Leakage of the power supply system | Gasoline smell, fuel drips | Check the tightness of the connections of the elements of the fuel system; if a defect is found, replace the corresponding components |
Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked at a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude about its performance | Replace candles |
Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the travel of the gas pedal, the clearance in the drive (pedal free travel), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable engine oil |
Defective regulator idle move or his chains | Substitute a known-good regulator | Replace defective regulator |
The throttle valve does not close completely | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the case is visible in the clearance | Replace throttle assembly |
Increased pressure in fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (not more than 3.5 bar) | Replace defective regulator |
Leaky injectors | Check injectors | Replace defective injectors |
The coolant temperature sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
Defective oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
Defective ECU or its circuit | To test, replace with a known-good ECU. | Replace the faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): clearances in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guides and seats, stuck or broken piston rings | Check the compression | Adjust the valve drive clearances. Replace defective parts |
Defective throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check the sensors and their circuits | Restore contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (s) |
Increased resistance to gas movement in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged parts of the exhaust system |
Running gear malfunctions and brake system | Check undercarriage components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment angles, replace defective chassis parts, fix malfunctions in the brake system |
ENGINE KNOCKING (HIGH TONE METAL KNOCKS, ARISING AS A RULE, WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING UNDER LOAD, ESPECIALLY AT LOW SPEEDS, FOR EXAMPLE RELEASING ACCELERATION, ETC., DECREASE)
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
- | ||
Overheating of the engine | According to the coolant temperature gauge | Eliminate the cause of overheating ( "The engine gets very hot") |
Inspection after removing the cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation ( Diagnose the problem "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oils of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, with a low ash content. | |
Spark plugs with an inappropriate glow number are used | - | Use spark plugs recommended by the manufacturer |
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE (INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL ON)
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Low engine oil | Oil level indicator | Add oil |
Defective oil filter | Replace the filter with a known good filter | Replace defective oil filter |
Loose tightening of the drive pulley mounting bolt auxiliary units | Check bolt tightness | Tighten the bolt to the prescribed torque. |
Clogged mesh of the oil receiver | Inspection | Clear the mesh |
Misalignment, clogging pressure reducing valve oil pump or weakening of the valve spring | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace defective pressure reducing valve. Replace pump |
Worn oil pump gears | Replace oil pump | |
Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | Determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn out earbuds. Replace or repair the crankshaft if necessary |
Defective sensor insufficient pressure oils | We unscrew the insufficient oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace the faulty oil pressure sensor |
ENGINE OVERHEATS (ENGINE OVERHEAT SIGNAL ON)
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Faulty thermostat | Check if the thermostat is working | Replace defective thermostat |
Insufficient amount of coolant | The liquid level is below the "MIN" mark by expansion tank | Repair leaks. Add coolant |
There is a lot of limescale in the cooling system | - | Flush the cooling system with a descaler. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water. |
Radiator cells dirty | Inspection | Flush the radiator with a high-pressure water jet |
Coolant pump defective | Remove the pump and inspect the assembly | Replace pump assembly |
The cooling fan does not turn on | Check the fan switching circuits | Reconnect electrical circuits. Defective fuse, relay, cooling fan, temperature sensor, ECU - replace |
Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline | - | Refuel the vehicle with the fuel recommended by the manufacturer |
There is a lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on the piston crowns, valve plates | Inspection after removing the engine cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation (see. "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oil with recommended viscosity and as low ash content as possible |
Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket | Exhaust gas smells in the expansion tank and bubbles float up | Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness of the cylinder head |
ENGINE COOLING FAN RUNNING CONSTANTLY (EVEN ON A COLD ENGINE)
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Open in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit | The sensor and circuits are checked with an ohmmeter | Reconnect electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
The contacts of the relay for switching on the fan do not open | Tester check | Replace defective relay |
Defective ECU or its circuits | Check ECU or replace with a known good ECU. | Replace defective ECU |
Dimensions Toyota Corolla the current generation has increased when you compare the dimensions of the sedan with the previous version of the Corolla. Perhaps the most significant increase in size occurred in the cabin, as the wheelbase (the distance between the front and rear axles) has grown by 10 centimeters.
Overall body length new Toyota Corolla 4 620 mm, while the previous generation of the sedan was only 4 540 mm in length. The base, which determines the space in the cabin, has increased from 2,600 mm to 2,700 mm, making the Corolla the leader in this indicator in its class. Width new version car 1775 mm versus 1760 mm. In order to improve aerodynamic performance, the body height has been lowered by 5 mm.
Dimensions Toyota Corolla
- Length - 4620 mm
- Width - 1775 mm
- Height - 1465 mm
- Wheelbase - 2700 mm
- Front and rear wheel track - 1535/1535 mm
- Front / rear overhang - 940/980 mm
- Cabin length - 1930 mm
- Interior width - 1485 mm
- Interior height - 1190 mm
- Trunk volume Toyota Corolla - 452 liters
- Fuel tank volume - 55 liters
- Tire size - 195/65 R15, 205/55 R16
- Ground clearance or clearance of Toyota Corolla - 150 mm
Toyota Corolla ground clearance is 150 mm, while for European consumers this figure is slightly less and is 145 mm. The manufacturer has specially increased the ground clearance due to the peculiarity of the road surface in our country.
Toyota Corolla trunk the new generation has also become a little larger and holds 452 liters of volume, taking into account the fact that under the floor luggage compartment there is also a full-size spare wheel, it turns out to be a pretty decent indicator. Backrests rear seat Corolla folds in a ratio of 40 to 60, making the transportation of various things much more convenient, see the photo.
By the way, the trunk volume of the sedan of the last 10th generation was 450 liters. In this regard, little has changed. The loading opening is quite wide, which is very convenient for transporting all kinds of bulky suitcases and boxes.
Toyota Corolla engine protection will help protect the underside of the car from dirt, stones and moisture, as well as from mechanical damage. Protection can be delivered from dealers or installed after buying a car yourself. In order not to be mistaken with the choice, you should know the required dimensions for the engine crankcase for Toyota Corolla, the method of its attachment, and also understand the types of crankcase protection and manufacturers.
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 150
Usually in auto parts stores it is indicated for which brand and model of car this or that item is intended. Accordingly, owners of Toyota Corolla 150 need to look for a shield, in the name of which their model is indicated.
The following parts are suitable:
- Protection "AutoSCHIT", art. 6140 - aluminum 4 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 AL 5 - aluminum 5 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 st - steel, thickness 2 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Protection "Rival", art. 333.5799.1 - 5 mm aluminum, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Protection "AvtoBRONYA", 111.05774.1 / 111.05799.1 - steel 2 mm
These are only the most popular options, you can buy others in the store. When choosing, be sure to pay attention to the car model and the engine - for the same model with different engines the design of the crankcase will be different!
Suitable dimensions of engine protection Toyota Corolla 150
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 2008-2012 It has standard sizes 828x640 mm. If you decide to install a crankcase protection on a Toyota Corolla 150 from another car, it is important to pay attention not only to the length and width of the part, but also to the functional holes.
Plastic engine protection Toyota Corolla
Plastic protection will protect the crankcase from contamination, but it is ineffective in case of mechanical damage. Manufacturers recommend installing aluminum or steel. Composite protection for strong blow burst, and it will be impossible to restore it.
Why do you need engine protection?
- The engine crankcase protector reliably covers the underside of the vehicle, protecting important engine and gearbox components from damage when driving over an uneven road.
- In addition, the protection closes the elements from pebbles, dirt, sand flying from the road, which, accumulating in the lower part of the car, cause premature aging and rapid wear of the elements.
- Finally, the third function of the spare part is to protect the car from theft. The fact is that in many cases, in order to start the car, intruders need to get to the wiring, which is located at the bottom of the car. The protective plate reliably covers this area and eliminates the risk of intrusion.
Thus, if you purchase a new Toyota Corolla 150 engine protection, you do not need to know its dimensions. It is enough to indicate your car model and engine number. If you plan to put protection from another car, for the Corolla 150 with a 1.6 engine, Prius, Auris and Lexus CT200h protections are suitable.
Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Major car malfunctions - part 2
ENGINE TREATS FOR A LONG TIME TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE
List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
---|---|---|
Faulty thermostat | Check if the thermostat is working | Replace defective thermostat |
Low air temperature (below -15 ° С) | - | Insulate the engine: close the slot on front bumper windproof material |
Knocks and clicks when turning the car
Outer drive joint worn out | Remove the drive and check the joint. Replace pivot or actuator assembly if necessary |
Lack of grease in the joint | Examine the cover. Remove the drive, check the hinge. Apply enough new grease to the hinge, replace the damaged hinge boot. If there is any play, replace the pivot or actuator assembly. |
The intermediate bearing is badly worn | Remove the intermediate support bracket, check the play in the bearing. Replace intermediate bearing if necessary |
Vibration during acceleration and deceleration
Malfunctions battery
The battery is discharged Starter does not crank the engine or cranks slowly, the lamps are dim | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The car has not been used for a long time | Charge the battery with charger or on another car |
Loose belt tension | Tighten the alternator drive belt. |
With the engine off, many electrical consumers are working (head unit of the sound reproduction system, etc.) | Reduce the number of battery-powered consumers |
Damage to the insulation of electrical circuits, leakage of current along the surface of the battery | Check the leakage current (no more than 11 mA with disconnected consumers), clean the surface of the battery. Caution acid! |
Defective generator | See Diagnostics generator malfunctions |
Short circuit between the plates ("boiling" of the electrolyte, local heating of the battery) | Replace battery |
The indicator of lack of battery charge is on
The indicator of lack of battery charge is on. Voltage on-board network car below 15V | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Loose tension of the alternator drive belt | Pull up the belt |
Defective voltage regulator. | Replace regulator |
The diodes of the rectifier unit are damaged | Replace rectifier unit |
The connection of the leads of the field winding with slip rings is broken, short circuit or open circuit in the winding | Solder the leads, replace the alternator rotor or alternator assembly |
Open or short circuit in the stator winding, its short circuit to "ground" (when closing, the generator howls) | Check the winding with an ohmmeter. Replace stator or generator assembly |
The voltage of the vehicle's on-board network is higher than 15.1
Generator noise
Generator noise | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Damaged generator bearings (screeching, howling). The noise remains when the wires are disconnected from the generator and disappears when the drive belt is removed | Replace the rear bearing, front bearing with cover, or alternator assembly |
Short circuit in the stator winding (howl). The noise disappears when you disconnect the wires from the generator | Replace stator or generator assembly |
Short circuit in one of the diodes. The noise disappears when you disconnect the wires from the generator | Replace rectifier unit |
The low battery indicator does not light up
The indicator of no battery charge does not light up when the ignition is turned on | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Fuse F1 of the mounting block in the passenger compartment is blown | Find out and correct the cause of the burnout. Replace fuse |
Open in a chain "ignition switch - instrument cluster" | Check the wires from the ignition switch to the mounting block and from the mounting block to the instrument cluster |
The contacts of the ignition switch do not close | Check the contact closure with a tester. Replace contact part or switch assembly |
The battery low-charge indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running.The vehicle's on-board network voltage is below 14.4 Volts
The low battery indicator does not light up when the ignition is turned on and does not light up when the engine is running.The vehicle's on-board network voltage is below 14.4 V | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Worn or hanging brushes, oxidation of slip rings | Replace the brush holder with brushes, wipe the rings with a clean cloth soaked in gasoline |
Damaged voltage regulator | Replace voltage regulator |
Rectifier unit defective | Replace rectifier unit |
The connection of the wire to the outlet of the brush holder is broken. | Reconnect the wire with the brush holder output |
Unsoldering the leads of the excitation winding from the slip rings | Solder the leads or replace the alternator rotor or alternator assembly |
When you press the gas pedal all the way to the floor, the kickdown mode is not activated
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Low transmission fluid level | |
Test the engine management system (at a service center). Replace defective items | |
The adjustment of the cable of the selector lever is faulty, the sensor of the position of the selector lever or the electrical circuits are faulty | Adjust the drive (in service center), replace the faulty cable if necessary. Check the sensor (in the service center), replace the faulty sensor |
The engine starts up in modes other than "P" and "N"
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Improper adjustment of the engine start enable sensor | Adjust the position of the sensor (at the service center) |
Faulty engine management system | |
The adjustment of the cable of the gear lever is broken | Adjust the drive (in the service center), replace the cable if necessary |
Jerks when changing gears, the car does not move when the modes "D" or "R"
Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
---|---|
Low fluid level in the box | Check the fluid level on the indicator, add fluid if necessary |
Defective gear selector position sensor | Diagnose the sensor (in the service center), replace the faulty sensor |
Faulty engine management system | Diagnose the engine management system (in the service center), replace the faulty elements |
Lighting and light signaling
Lamps of block headlights, lanterns do not light
Lamps of block headlights, lanterns do not light | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Burnt out lamp filament | Replace lamp |
Blown fuse | Check the circuit of the blown fuse for a short to ground, replace the fuse |
The relay contacts are oxidized, the relay windings are burned out, the switches are faulty | Strip contacts, replace relays, switches |
Direction indicator light blinks at double frequency
The turn signal switch lever does not return to its original position, the steering column switch lever is not fixed
Headlight lens diffuser fogs up
Windshield wiper
The wiper motor does not work, the circuit protection fuse in the mounting block is OK
The wiper motor is not working, the circuit protection fuse is in mounting block serviceable | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Malfunction of the steering column switch | Replace defective wiper switch |
The brushes of the electric motor are stuck, the collector is very dirty or burnt | Eliminate hanging brushes, clean manifold or replace geared motor |
Breakage in the winding of the electric motor armature | Replace geared motor |
Additional relay defective | Replace relay |
The wiper motor does not work, the wiper circuit protection fuse in the mounting block blows
The wiper motor does not work, the wiper circuit protection fuse in the mounting block blows | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The brushes are frozen to the glass | After turning off the cleaner, carefully separate the brushes from the glass, make sure the rubber scraper is intact, restore the mobility of the brush connections |
Wiper brushes touching body parts | Check if the levers are seated correctly, straighten out the deformed levers or replace the wiper |
Short circuit in the motor winding | Replace geared motor |
Cleaner motor does not intermittently
Cleaner motor does not stop intermittently
Cleaner motor does not stop intermittently | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Defective purifier relay | Replace relay |
Limit switch blades are not pressed well against the gear of the geared motor | Fold in the contact tabs of the limit switch |
Oxidized or burnt contacts of the limit switch | Clean contacts or replace wiper gear motor |
The brushes stop at any position
Brushes do not work synchronously
Cleaner motor runs, but no brushes move
Separate threads of the heating element rear window heating does not heat up
No thread of the heating element heats up
No thread of the heating element heats up | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The switch, relay, fuse for heating the rear window are faulty, the wires are damaged, the tips are oxidized or poorly connected, the contact is cut off from the heating element | Replace defective switch, relay, fuse, wires. Strip, crimp the tips. Replace glass with heating element |
The heater fan motor does not work
The heater fan motor does not work | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Wires are damaged, oxidized or loose ends | Crimp and strip lugs, replace faulty wires |
Wear, hanging of the brushes of the electric motor, open or short circuit in the armature winding, oxidation or wear of the collector | Clean manifold or replace motor |
Defective switch | Replace switch |
The heater fan motor does not work at low speed
The coolant temperature gauge or fuel gauge does not work
The coolant temperature gauge or fuel gauge does not work | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Pointer defective | Replace the instrument cluster |
Defective sensor | Replace Pointer Sensor |
Wires are damaged, oxidized or loose ends | Crimp lugs, replace faulty wires |
The fuel reserve indicator is constantly on
The needle of the fuel gauge twitches and often deviates to zero
Signalers do not light up
Speedometer does not work
Speedometer does not work | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Defective speed sensor | Replace speed sensor |
Defective speedometer | Replace the instrument cluster |
Tachometer does not work
Sound signal malfunctions
The horn does not work | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The signal is faulty, its switch, relay, the fuse is blown, the wires are damaged, their tips are oxidized or poorly connected | Try to restore the sound by turning the screw on the signal housing. Strip, crimp the cable lugs. Faulty signal, switch, relay, wires, blown fuse - replace |
Faint, hoarse signal sound | |
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The signal is faulty, the wires are damaged, their tips are oxidized or poorly connected | Adjust the sound by turning the screw on the signal housing. Strip, crimp the cable lugs. Faulty signal, switch, wires - replace |
Driving the car away from straight-line traffic (on a flat road)
Driving the car away from straight-line traffic (on a flat road) | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Unequal tire pressure | |
Violation of the angles of the longitudinal inclination of the axis of rotation and / or camber of the front wheels | Adjust the tilt angles of the steering axle and / or camber of the front wheels |
Replace the worn out tire | |
Replace both springs | |
Deformed parts of the suspension and / or car body | Straighten or replace deformed body parts and panels |
Rear axle displacement due to wear of the beam silent blocks rear suspension | Replace silent blocks |
Wheel braking due to seizure of the wheel cylinder piston | Replace cylinder |
Braking front wheel due to loosening of the bolts securing the guide pads to the steering knuckle (the caliper is displaced) | Tighten the bolts |
Braking rear wheel due to weakening or breakage of the return spring of the rear brake pads | Replace the spring |
Increased imbalance of the front wheels | Balance the wheels |
Rapid tire tread wear
Rapid tire tread wear | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
High speed of movement, starts with wheel slip, braking "to the skid", cornering with skidding or drifting | |
Tire pressure abnormal | Set normal pressure |
Contact with rubber-aggressive materials - bitumen, oil, gasoline, solvents, acids, etc. | Replace tire |
Uneven tire tread wear | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Increased wheel imbalance | Balance the wheels |
Deformation of the tire, rim | Replace the wheel |
Different tire pressures | Set normal pressure |
The angles of the front wheels are violated | Adjust the wheel alignment angles |
High speed of movement in turns, their passing with skidding or drifting of wheels | Observe the normal speed mode movement |
Worn hinges, deformation of suspension or body parts | Replace joints, deformed suspension parts, side members, body panels |
Steering play (see also "Increased free play of the steering wheel") | Replace worn hinges, tighten threaded connections, adjust the gap between the gear and rack in the steering mechanism |
Defective shock absorber | Replace both shock absorbers |
Increased free play of the steering wheel | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
The tightening of the nuts securing the ball pins of the rods is loosened | Tighten the nuts |
Increased clearance in ball joints, wear of rubber-metal joints of rods | Replace rod ends |
Large clearance between the rail stop and the nut | Adjust the clearance in the steering gear |
Wheel rotates tight | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Defective electric power steering | Replace the electric booster |
No power is supplied to the electric power steering | Check the power supply of the electric booster, its control unit (fuse F31, F5) |
The bearing of the upper support of the front suspension strut is damaged | Replace bearing or support |
Damaged support bush or rack stop | Replace damaged parts, add grease |
Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels | Set normal pressure |
Damaged steering rod joints | Replace rod ends |
Damaged steering gear bearings | Replace bearings |
Creak, squeal when braking
Creak, squeal when braking | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Brake pad wear limit | Replace brake pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
Inclusion of foreign particles (sand) in the lining material | As a rule, does not require intervention (you can clean the pads with a wire brush) |
Poor quality of the lining material | |
Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality disc material and / or lining) | Replace brake discs |
Replace pads (all on the same axis at the same time) | |
Replace the spring | |
Braking with locking wheels | Do not overbrake, use tires suitable for driving conditions |
Vibration when braking
Vibration when braking | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Deformation of the brake disc | Replace both drives |
Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut) | Tighten the wheel nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
The piston is jammed in the rear wheel cylinder | Replace cylinder |
The brake pad is peeling from the base | Replace pads (all on the same axis at the same time) |
The return spring of the rear brake pads is weakened or broken | Replace the spring |
Driving or skidding of the vehicle when braking | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Replace cylinder | |
Blocked brake lines: tubes or hoses | |
Lining delamination from the base of the brake pad | Replace the block (better all at the same time on the same axis) |
Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads (in winter). The pads are wet | Check the brakes at low speed when starting to drive. In rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly pressing the brake pedal |
Different pressure in the tires of the left and right wheels | Set normal pressure |
Significant difference in tire wear | Replace the worn out tire |
Pressure regulator actuator incorrectly adjusted | Adjust the drive |
Replace regulator | |
One of the circuits of the service brake system does not work (braking efficiency is significantly reduced) | Eliminate the fluid leak from the brake system, bleed the system |
Deformation of the brake disc | Replace both drives |
Wheel axial play (severe wear of the front wheel bearings or loosening of the hub nut) | Tighten the wheel nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
Ovality of the brake drum | Grind or replace drum |
Defective strut damper | Replace both shock absorbers |
Uneven settlement of the front suspension springs | Replace both springs |
Wheel alignment angles are violated | Adjust the wheel alignment angles |
Increased brake pedal travel
Increased brake pedal travel (pedal "soft" or "fails") | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Air in the brake system, brake fluid leakage through leaks in hydraulic connections, damage to cuffs in the main brake cylinder, pressure regulator, damage brake pipes and hoses | Inspect all lines, their threaded connections and cylinders, eliminate leaks. Restore the normal level of fluid in the brake reservoir and bleed the system. If you find damage to the brake hoses (cracks, swelling or traces of brake fluid), replace the hoses. If you suspect defects in the master brake cylinder, replace it with a serviceable one. |
The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to falling into brake fluid oil, gasoline, etc. | |
Overheating of the brakes | Let the brakes cool. Use only DOT-4 brake fluids in the system. Change the brake fluid in time |
The gap between the shoes and the drum is increased (the device for automatic adjustment of the gap does not work) | Replace the wheel cylinder, bleed the system |
One of the circuits of the service brake system does not work | Eliminate the fluid leak from the brake system, bleed the system |
Increased (more than 0.15 mm) brake disc runout | Replace both drives |
The car brakes badly
The brake pedal travel is within normal limits (the pedal is stiff), but the car brakes poorly | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Seizure of the wheel cylinder piston | Replace cylinder |
Replace damaged tubes and hoses | |
Lubrication of brake discs, drums, linings | |
Complete wear of the brake pads (brake grinding) | Replace brake pads (all on the same axle at the same time) |
Poor quality of the lining material | |
Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality disc material and / or lining) | Replace discs |
The brake pad is peeling from the base | Replace pads (all on the same axis at the same time) |
Pressure regulator actuator incorrectly adjusted | Adjust the drive |
Defective pressure regulator | Replace regulator |
The vacuum booster is faulty or the hose connecting the booster to the receiver is leaking | Check the integrity of the hose, its fit on the fittings, the tightness of the clamps. Check amplifier operation |
Incomplete release of all wheels | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
There is no free play of the brake pedal | Adjust pedal free travel |
Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed | |
Master cylinder piston jammed (due to corrosion, breakage of return springs) | Replace master cylinder, upgrade the system |
Braking of one of the wheels when the brake pedal is released | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Seizure of the wheel cylinder piston | Replace cylinder |
The rubber cuffs of the cylinders are swollen due to the ingress of oil, gasoline, etc. into the brake fluid. | Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain the brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed |
Blockage of brake lines: pipes (due to dents) or hoses (due to swelling or separation of rubber) | Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
Pads seizing due to heavy contamination of the support surfaces of the caliper | Remove the pads, clean the bearing surfaces of the pads and caliper |
Rear brake pad peeling | Replace pads (all on the same axis at the same time) |
The return spring of the rear brake pads is weakened or broken | Replace the spring |
Deformation of the spacer bar, skewed pads due to deformation of the brake shield | Straighten or replace spacer bar, brake shield |
The fastening of the guide shoes to the steering knuckle | Tighten the bolts |
Overtighten the parking brake, the cables are jammed in the casings | Adjust the tension of the cables, lubricate them with engine oil, if the sheath is damaged or the wires of the cable are frayed, and if the cable is severely corroded, replace the cable |
Insufficient efficiency of the parking brake system | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Adjust the drive | |
Drive cables stuck in casings | Lubricate the cables with engine oil, if the sheath is damaged or the wires of the cable are frayed, and if the cable is severely corroded, replace the cable |
Brake drums, linings are oiled | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
An ice or salt crust has formed on the surface of the pads (in winter). The pads are wet | Check the brakes at low speed when starting to drive. In rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly pressing the brake pedal |
When the lever is released parking brake wheels do not release
When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels are not released | |
---|---|
Cause of malfunction | Elimination methods |
Incorrect drive alignment | Adjust the drive |
After long-term parking, the pads are stuck (or frozen) to the drum | Pulling on the lever or cables, try to turn the wheel carefully (so as not to rip the brake pads). When parking the car, if possible, do not apply the brake, but engage the gear |