Why is the box buzzing on Jili MK. Extraordinary Chinese sedan: disadvantages of Geely MK with mileage. What to do if you hear a hum from the box

07.06.2017

Geely MK is a Chinese representative of class C, which is a development of Geely Automobile companies. In recent years, the Chinese auto industry has made a real breakthrough in the automotive industry. One of the main components of the popularity of this model is design - the exterior of the car is not typical for an oriental manufacturer and looks more like an "American". It is not worth comparing this car with the Americans, Japanese or Koreans, since they are higher in build quality and components, but this model has one parameter by which it surpasses all its competitors, and this is its price, and this parameter has always been one of the main ones when choosing a car. And, here's how the low cost of the car affected its reliability, and what you should pay attention to when choosing a Geely MK with mileage on secondary market, now let's try to find out.

A bit of history:

In the domestic Chinese market, the premiere of Jili MK took place in 2006, but in the CIS this model appeared only in the middle of 2008. The first generation of Toyota Yaris was taken as the basis for the development of the car, and engines from Toyota are also used on the car. Geely previously purchased these engines from Tianjin Industrial (FAW), which is licensed by Toyota. In January 2010 at the plant car company Derways in the city of Cherkessk (Russia) launched the production of cars for the CIS markets. Prior to that, Geely MKs were supplied to car dealerships straight from China. In 2011, Geely rebranded the car, and as a result, the car was named Englon MK, and MK Cross was renamed Englon Jinying cross. The rebranding was carried out in connection with a new marketing strategy aimed at renewing and raising the brand image. In 2015, Geely MK was replaced by the GC6, which is a deep restyling.

Weaknesses and disadvantages of Geely MK with mileage

Metal like paintwork, very thin, because of this, chips and dents appear even from a small pebble flying out from under the wheels of oncoming traffic. The body is weakly resistant to aggressive environmental influences, which is why rust appears on the car body after a couple of years of operation. Corrosion appears most rapidly on the underside of the car (additional treatment with anti-corrosion agents is required) and in places where paint is chipped. Also, traces of rust can be found on: front doors (under the seal), hood and gas tank cap (in the area of ​​the lock). Protective glass foglights often crack when used in cold and damp weather.

Engines

Geely MK was equipped only with gasoline power units - 1.5 (94 hp), 1.6 (107 hp). The most common engine in the CIS is a 1.5 liter unit, which was assembled under license from Toyota (a copy of the 5A-FE engine from). If we talk about its reliability, then, in general, the motor is not bad, but a couple weak points in it, nevertheless, it was revealed. The first thing to look for is the timing belt. According to the regulations, it does not require replacement up to 60,000 km, but, as the operating experience has shown, after 40,000 km cracks appear on it, also, a pair of teeth may not be enough, I think it is not worth explaining what consequences this can lead to. For those who like to carry out repairs in their garage, it is worth considering the fact that to replace the timing belt, you will have to remove the right engine mount.

It is not uncommon for owners to encounter trouble when an unheated engine starts to run through, fortunately, to solve the problem, you can do without a trip to the service - you need to change the spark plugs, high voltage wires or ignition coils. If these manipulations do not give a positive result, you will have to adjust the valves. To perform this procedure, you should contact an experienced specialist, since incorrect adjustment of the valves can lead to their "clamping" after 40-60 thousand kilometers and with subsequent burnout. Remove high-voltage wires very carefully, as there is a high risk of breaking them.

On cars with mileage over 50,000 km, coolant leaks appear through the throttle heating gasket. If the defect is not eliminated in a timely manner, this can lead to premature failure of the regulator. idle move... The main signal about a malfunction of the regulator will be: difficult start, the engine stalls immediately after setting and starts only when you press the gas pedal. The new regulator will cost $ 20, but you can save a little by installing an analog from the Chevrolet Niva ($ 8-10).

In the warm season, it is necessary to carefully monitor the temperature of the engine, most often the engine overheats when driving for a long time at a speed of 80-100 km per hour with the air conditioner on. The main reason is not turning on the cooling fan, in poor contact at the wiring terminals and the delayed opening of the thermostat. The ability to monitor the temperature of the engine and prevent it from overheating is complicated by the fact that the temperature sensor may provide incorrect data. If you cannot warm up the engine to operating temperature for a long time, the problem is most likely associated with acidification of the thermostat in the open position.

On most copies, on a mileage of 80-120 thousand km, you have to change the cylinder head gasket, the reason is the burnout of the cylinder head gasket. On the same run, a pump replacement is required. The cooling radiator is corroded. A signal of a problem will be the appearance of red spots in expansion tank... With the arrival of cold weather, a cooling radiator may begin to flow at the junction of plastic and metal. On a mileage of 80-100 thousand km, it becomes necessary to replace the front crankshaft oil seal (oil leaks appear). Once every 60-80 thousand km, replacement of the oil pressure sensor is required. Slightly less resource (40-60 thousand km) have engine mountings and gearboxes. Many owners name high consumption fuel, in the combined cycle 8-10 thousand km, and this is much more than the manufacturer promised.

Transmission

Geely MK was equipped with only a five-speed manual transmission. The transmission diagnostics must be taken very carefully. The main ailment that owners have to deal with is the fragility of the bearings of the primary and secondary shafts. Most often, owners of cars with a mileage of 50-70 thousand km contact the service with complaints about extraneous noise in the box. You will have to spend 100-150 USD to fix the malfunction. They are not famous for their durability and semiaxis seals, as a rule, oil leaks appear after 30-40 thousand km of run. On a run of 60-70 thousand km, replacement of the clutch master cylinder is required. To save a little, the cylinder can be repaired using a special repair kit. When using low-quality oil, with the onset of cold weather, there are difficulties with gear shifting. With careful operation, the clutch can last 80-100 thousand km (a set of a new clutch with release bearing will cost 40-60 USD).

Features and disadvantages of the Jili MK chassis

On the Geely MK, the suspension is standard for this class of cars: in the front - MacPherson strut, in the back - a beam. As for the reliability of most of the suspension elements, the situation here is not so optimistic. Most often, it is necessary to replace the stabilizer struts, for sloppy drivers they walk less than 10,000 km, with careful operation they can last 15-20 thousand km, bushings up to 40,000 km. Shock absorbers serve 50-60 thousand km, but there are often cases when they had to be changed after 30,000 km, since their price is not too high up to 50 USD. PCS. Front wheel bearings, levers and ball joints can please with a mileage of 70-80 thousand km. CV joints are capable of holding up to 100,000 km. In order to be less likely to deal with the repair of the chassis, many owners, when selecting spare parts, prefer interchangeable parts from different models Toyota.

Backlash in the steering rack takes place even on practically new cars, the reason lies in the poor-quality assembly of the unit, fortunately, to eliminate the defect, it is enough to tighten it. The resource of the rail is not much different from a similar part of most Japanese and Korean manufacturers (100-150 thousand km). Buying a new rail will cost 150-250 USD. Steering tips require replacement every 50-60 thousand km, thrust once every 70-80 thousand km. There are problems with braking system, the main one is piston corrosion brake cylinder which causes the brakes to jam. Also, the rear cylinders require special attention, there have been cases when brake fluid leaks appeared on them.

Salon

The Jili MK salon cannot boast of the quality of assembly and materials, and thanks to the use of hard plastic, crickets here feel at home. If you hear a rattling sound from the steering wheel while driving, it is necessary to check the tightness of the bolts holding the airbag (they are unscrewed over time). During intensive use, the front seats can be wiped clean after a year, taking the heating elements along with them. If you neglect the replacement, everything can end in fire. Due to poor quality gluing windshield and constantly flying off rubber plugs on the bottom, water appears under the mat of the driver and front passenger over time. Also, after heavy rain, a puddle may appear in the trunk, the reason is poor-quality seals rear lights and rear shock absorber supports.

As for the electrics, then, most often, heating brings unpleasant surprises rear window, mirrors and climate system. Many owners complain that the air conditioner cannot cope with its duties even in cool weather. At a run of 80-100 thousand km, freon leaks appear, at the same run the air conditioner compressor can jam. At the most inopportune moment, the stove fan may stop turning on, the reason is the failure of the speed controller relay. After 100,000 km, problems begin with the voltage regulator (repair or replacement of the generator is required), as a result of which the battery stops charging. Due to the failure of the microcircuit of the driver board of the electric motors, the backlight of the instrument panel stops working.

Outcome:

Despite significant progress in the automotive industry, the Chinese auto industry still falls short of the level of Korean and Japanese manufacturers and Geely MK is no exception. This car cannot be called bad, since the small resource of some parts is justified by the low cost of the car, low cost of repair and maintenance.

If you are the owner of this car model, please describe the problems that you had to face during the operation of the car. Perhaps it is your feedback that will help the readers of our site when choosing a car.

Best regards, editors AutoAvenu

Geely MK / Cross. Reduced coolant level

Reasons for the drop in level coolant in the expansion tank (reducing the level of antifreeze)

The change in the coolant level is quite natural. On a cold one, the level decreases, and on a warm engine, the level rises. Similarly, the level changes depending on the ambient air temperature. In winter, the volume in the expansion tank becomes smaller, and in summer it becomes larger. But, what if you began to notice a constant decrease in the volume of liquid in the tank. There are other reasons for the decrease in the level of antifreeze, which are caused by a malfunction of certain components in the cooling system.

The first thing the car owner should do to find out the reasons is to determine the place of the leak. To do this, when you put your car in the garage or parking lot at night, place a clean white cardboard under the hood. In the morning, look carefully to see if there is liquid on the paper and in what area. Typically, a leak occurs either under the radiator or under the engine, where there is a pump (water pump) that pumps antifreeze through the system.

Loose hose clamps are often the cause of leaks. Use a flashlight to inspect the engine compartment and, if possible, drive the car onto an overpass or pit in order to do a good inspection under the hood. Look at the location where the clamp is holding the hose. If the reason is in the clamps, then you will quickly find a constantly damp place from where the antifreeze is leaking. In this case, replace the clamp with a new one and check if there is any leak after that. If all clamps are dry, and the decrease in the level of antifreeze continues, then the pump should be checked. Often, this pump, pumping antifreeze through the system, fails, especially if it is of low-quality production. The pump is replaced every 50-60 thousand km, although many car owners wait for it to fail and only then turn to a car service. You can notice a pump malfunction by the following signs:
- constantly wet in the area of ​​the pump and drive belt;
- the stove in the cabin began to heat poorly;
- remove drive belt and try to turn the pulley. A loose pulley is a sign of a malfunction;
- the appearance of a clearly visible gap in the pulley drive is the most likely sign of a pump malfunction or that the pump will soon fail.
A characteristic sign that the pump has already failed is, in addition to antifreeze leakage, a constant knock during engine operation. The source of knocking is faulty pump bearings.

If all of the above signs are not noticed by you, check the serviceability of the radiator. Indirect signs radiator breakdowns are:
- Antifreeze spots under the hood in the radiator area;
- constant fogging of the windshield;
- constant appearance of oil stains on the floor in the area of ​​the front passenger.
If these signs are found, repairs are required at the service station.

A decrease in the level of antifreeze can occur if the cylinder head gasket is punctured. If this part breaks down, coolant begins to enter the oil channels. A characteristic feature is the appearance of white smoke from exhaust pipe and the appearance of transparent bubbles on the dipstick. If you find these signs, you should contact a car service and do not operate the car. Getting into the oil, antifreeze reduces its lubricating properties, which over time can cause overheating of the motor and its breakdown.

Antifreeze evaporation and other causes of its leakage

Antifreeze is a substance used in vehicle cooling systems that has a high boiling point and low freezing point. Now there are three primary colors - red, green and blue.

The basis of such a composition is a glycol-water mixture, which determines the property of antifreeze not to freeze at low temperatures. Ethylene glycol-based products are the most widespread among domestic manufacturers. However, an aqueous solution of such a substance is quite aggressive in relation to some materials of the car's cooling system.

To prevent damage to parts, the composition of such a substance also includes various additives: anti-corrosion, stabilizing, anti-foaming.

Common breakdown of the cooling system

The most common breakdown of a car's cooling system is a decrease in the level of antifreeze. Signs of such a problem are:

A large amount of steam escaping from under the hood;
White smoke that comes out of the car muffler;
The stove reduces the air temperature in the cabin, rather than raising it;
Dashboard signals about engine overheating;
The thermometer in the machine has reached its maximum value.
Sometimes even several signs appear at the same time, in which case the car must be turned off immediately and provided with maintenance at the service station.

Why is the level of antifreeze dropping?

Reducing the level of antifreeze in the coolant reservoir is a fairly common phenomenon in our time. This can happen for several reasons:

In the cold season, the coolant tends to decrease in volume. Therefore, in winter, add such a substance more often than at other times.

The liquid flows into cracks and crevices in the tank or its lid. It can be quite difficult to detect such a problem, because cracks along outward appearance may resemble normal scratches. However, this may be sufficient for a slight drip of the antifreeze from the reservoir.
leaves the tank

Depressurization of various connections of the cooling system or damage to its pipes and hoses. Also, a leak occurs with the thermostat gasket.
Various radiator breakdowns can also cause a decrease in the coolant level.
the radiator is leaking

Another reason for the departure of antifreeze from the vehicle system is its evaporation. Any coolant contains water, which, despite the tightness of the cooling system, gradually evaporates from it. Experts note that reducing the level of liquid in such car system Approximately 200 grams between two adjacent scheduled maintenance is the norm.

Thus, even in the absence of any damage, the antifreeze gradually evaporates from the car's cooling system, although this also occurs in very small volumes.

If the coolant leaves quickly enough, the reason lies not in evaporation, but in some other problem, so you should immediately go to the service station for professional help.

If it is not possible to use the services of a car service when the antifreeze is "leaving", you can try to determine the cause of this problem yourself.

First of all, when the engine is not running, check the oil - remove the dipstick and carefully inspect it for traces of some other liquid other than oil.

After that, start the engine and leave it running until the fan operates. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the cooling system - whether drops of liquid appear somewhere, especially at the joints and hoses. With a small probability, the problem may lie in the radiator, but it is very difficult to determine this on your own.

It will also be useful to check the tightness of the closure of the tank. Usually, in this case, light vapor will be noticeable coming out from under the hood, and characteristic traces of liquid evaporation will remain on the reservoir.
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The gearbox is one of the most complex mechanisms in the entire car. Only the engine can compete with it in terms of the complexity of the design. This is the reason why the box is often even more expensive to repair. power unit... To understand all the features of this process, it is enough to consider the gearbox diagrams from the inside - this will give an understanding of the high complexity and manufacturability of all mechanisms built into the body. Repairs must be carried out exclusively by professional, otherwise the unit will not be able to pass a sufficient amount of time. You need to understand that the reliability of the car's trip, the convenience of its operation and the physical ability to go on long journeys without fear of terrible breakdowns depend on the quality of the box.

The transmission can show a variety of troubles during operation, but one of the most common manifestations of a breakdown is the hum in the transmission. The hum can be of different intensity, tone and strength. You can barely notice it, and sometimes the hum is such that accelerate the car to high speed or turn the engine to high revs I just don't feel like it. Sometimes such a hum turns out to be only evidence of some technological feature of the box. Sometimes it occurs after repair, when the parts do not fully fit together. In this case, it is not critical, but the hum can be removed only with the help of repeated repairs. Let's look at the reasons that make you feel increasing discomfort when not driving a car and feel unpleasant sounds from under the hood.

Automatic transmission - the hum is definitely not good

If you have an automatic transmission, variator or robotic mechanics with automatic switching, the rumble definitely does not bode well for you. At any service, just disassembling and assembling your box will cost fabulous money. Today you will not be too pleased with the prices for spare parts. Sometimes it is better to listen to the hum than to hear the price it takes to eliminate it. Use the help of specialists to diagnose the gearbox, but remember that a complete diagnosis of your machine is possible only if the gearbox is disassembled. The most common causes of hum in automatic transmissions are:

• in an ordinary machine or in robotic box one of the elements may be erased main pair giving backlash in work;
• gears do not hit each other in normal modes, excessive friction of mechanisms in the box occurs;
• for the variator, the hum almost certainly means death or the need for capital repairs - stretching of the main working mechanisms is not so rare;
• also, the box can hum due to poor fastening of the axle shafts, which causes backlash at the joints and a rather strong hum;
• bearings that are out of order are often buzzing, they will definitely show themselves in the near future;
• worn teeth on the pinion or shaft will indicate backlash and constant hum in one or more gears.

Often, along with the hum, some other troubles with the gearbox begin to occur. For example, the gearbox starts to throw out one of the gears after you release the accelerator pedal to slow down. The forks may be to blame for this, but it all depends on the gearbox, its type, design and other features. If for mechanics such a problem is quite easy to get around, then for an automatic machine, dropping gears in an unauthorized mode means the impossibility of operating the car. Otherwise, the trip in such a car would be unsafe. So always watch the sounds coming from the machine and contact service center to eliminate them.

Manual transmissions - hum for many reasons

In mechanics, the causes of hum in gearboxes are no less than in automatic boxes... It must be remembered that mechanical box rather gentle, loves moderate exploitation and the absence of sudden movements. This even applies to sports boxes, which are most protected from damage when sport modes travel. However, such boxes are considered more reliable and durable than automatic types. This is a rather controversial truth, because there are different machines and there are different mechanical gearboxes... Many motorists prefer mechanics due to the rather low cost of restoration. Although, it depends on what caused the hum in the gearbox:

• wear or unequal replacement of the elements of the main pair - the hum can continue for a long time without negative consequences, but, in the end, the box will fail;
• the leading bearings are worn out - they will hum for several weeks of active operation and fall apart, causing not too pleasant consequences;
• gears of gears - if the hum is heard in only one gear, the culprit of such a nuisance is the gear of this particular gear;
• poor-quality assembly of the box is often the reason that there is a hum due to the inconsistency of the shaft hitting the gears;
• poor operation of the gear engagement mechanism leads to the fact that the engagement turns out to be inaccurate and uneven;
• often there are individual and unforeseen problems in mechanical boxes, which are diagnosed only after disassembly.

Such troubles are possible in every car. Of course, domestic cars are becoming more frequent visitors to professional service stations. But quite often expensive technological foreign cars arrive at the stations with questions of the hum of the gearbox. It should be noted that in most cases, high-end cars do not present such problems. They are made with the highest quality and can serve for many years without question. But in some cases, it is not the engineer or assembler at the factory that becomes the culprit for the breakdown of the box, but the driver himself.

What if I hear a hum from the box?

The best solution in this situation is to immediately turn on good station Maintenance for information about the nature of this drone. If a specialist, after diagnostics, says that the wear of the main pair or other gears of the gearbox mechanism has begun, you can safely ride for several more weeks, collecting money for renovation work... But remember that wear on the main pair shaft sometimes has a negative effect on the condition of all gearbox mechanisms. So you may well bring the situation to the point that your box will have to be sent to overhaul or even a replacement. The box repair algorithm is as follows:

• bring the car to a high-quality service with a sufficiently large number of specialists and good equipment for repair;
• order to begin with disassembly and full detailed diagnostics of the gearbox to identify problems;
• if a problem is identified, estimate the cost of restoring the machine and potential repair of your box;
• make a decision based on the proposed facts and the information provided by specialists;
• order the repair of the gearbox to those professionals whom you fully trust - you must not allow the poor quality of the repair;
• install only original expensive parts inside the box, as they can last a long time and have a guarantee.

One of the most expensive processes in gearbox repair is disassembly and diagnostics. Then everything is done at the democratic prices of the service station. Keep this in mind when choosing parts for your transmission. It is best to use original factory options for spare parts to completely eliminate troubles in the near future. So you will save on subsequent repairs and can quite simply complete the necessary tasks in one process of disassembling the box. You should not skimp on parts and on the quality of the work performed, as this can adversely affect the operation of the unit. We propose to consider the reasons for the hum in the box, which experts say:

Summing up

Many motorists are faced with a problem such as gearbox hum. It can be an automatic or manual transmission, every version of a modern robot or such a fashionable variator. There are dozens of diseases of technical units and assemblies that can negatively affect this part of your car's equipment. Therefore, you should pay special attention to those features that the gearbox provides you during operation. If you simply miss the moment when bearings or other parts start buzzing, you may soon find yourself on the sidelines of the expensive ones without the ability to move in the car.

There are many types of motorists. Some want their vehicle to work perfectly, others are content with the fact that while the car is driving, there is nothing to repair it. But most of the owners Vehicle want the main components of the machine to work well and efficiently. Therefore, do not neglect good diagnostics to find out which part of the box is causing the unpleasant hum. Most likely, after such a diagnosis, you will want to restore the node. Did your car have such gearbox problems that caused an unpleasant hum?

Reading 6 min.

Gearbox whine is a common occurrence. How to correctly diagnose problems and decide on the need for repair.

Oil: could it be the reason?

There are several reasons why the transmission starts to howl. The first, the most common, is the oil level in the box. Many motorists do not attach importance to the need to monitor the oil level in the gearbox. This leads to oil starvation in the main fifth gear, which is above the rest. Due to the lack of oil, the bearings begin to overheat and fail. This is accompanied by a high-pitched howl that occurs when driving in fifth gear. Such a disease is treated with a transfusion of 100 - 200 grams. transmission oil above the level with constant control.

Some might say that overflowing oil will cause it to leak through the seals. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary first of all to clean the breather, and secondly, to pour oil in parts, gradually. For example, at first 100 grams, and after a while, if there is no leak, even so much. You can also add a second oil seal to the gearshift rocker.

The next, no less common reason for the transmission soundtrack is the poor quality of the transmission oil, poured into the gearbox or incorrectly selected. Talking about domestic cars, then, for example, the use of front-wheel drive VAZ oils of the APIGL-5 category in the gearbox leads to rapid wear of the synchronizers, which will cause the presence of gearbox noise when shifting. Therefore, it is imperative to use an APIGL-4 class transmission. Domestic oils it is rather difficult to find this classification, therefore it is necessary to use lubricants of foreign manufacturers. But their use can significantly extend the life of the gearbox, avoiding various sounds when driving.

In addition, insufficient or excessive viscosity of the oil used also affects the wear of the gearbox parts and the presence of sound during its operation. So, for example, a very thick oil with a viscosity of 85W-90 creates a strong film, protecting the gears from wear, but at the same time it is difficult for lubricant to access some parts of the box, which may suffer from oil starvation, prematurely failing. It will also be difficult to shift gears due to the need for synchronizers to squeeze out excess oil, which again will lead to rapid wear of parts. The first sign of a very thick oil will be the presence of a howling cold and its disappearance on a heated unit.

Too liquid oil will cause the opposite effect, in which the oil film will break off on the hot one, accelerating the wear of the gearbox parts, which will again be accompanied by a howling and hum.

You should be extremely careful when choosing a transmission oil according to the recommendations of the manufacturer and experienced servicemen.

Oil additives: can you do without repairs?

If changing the oil does not help, the gearbox howls, then it is necessary to repair the unit. Many can say that additives are added, but that doesn't help 80 percent of the time. According to the reviews of many motorists, the addition of additives can only temporarily or not completely muffle the soundtrack, but it will not completely solve the problem.

The chemically active substances contained in the revitalizant additives form a cermet layer on the surface of worn gears and bearings, which, according to the manufacturer, restores the geometry of the parts and compensates for wear. Of course, if the howl of the gearbox is barely audible, it has just begun, then the addition of, for example, Hado, may well postpone the problem with the gearbox repair. But it may not help if the problem is already old, and the wear of the unit's components is significant. Then repairs are definitely needed.

Diagnostics and repair

As for the gearbox repair, it is very important to start with the correct diagnostics. possible malfunction unit, try to determine why the box makes a howl without removing the unit. Usually the box howls not in all modes, but at some speeds. If the howl accompanies movement in 1, 2, 3 gears, then this usually indicates problems with the bearing connecting the primary and secondary shafts, more precisely, about its wear. The only way out is to replace it. But there is small nuance- if the bearing is needle bearing without a cage, then a simple replacement of the needles may not help. This will require replacement of the shafts. And this is a serious renovation.

It is also possible the presence of howling when the working pair of gears is worn, located on the primary and secondary shafts of these gears. Or in case of poor-quality factory processing and installation after repair. One of the characteristic features of gear wear is howl under load and decrease in the absence of thrust. A worn bearing will make a noise regardless of whether there is a load or not. But it is possible to determine exactly the reasons only by disassembling the gearbox, showing to a specialist if the repair is done by hand.

If there is a howl in 5th gear, the first thing to do is to check and add oil to the unit if necessary, as mentioned earlier. But if this does not help, then it is most likely necessary to replace the fifth gear. This is determined by opening the box. Previously, by the sound at high speed, you can determine the reason - with a frank howl, the gear is worn out, with a squeak over 100 km / h - most likely, the bearing.

If the box of front-wheel drive cars howls in all gears, then there is a high probability of bearing wear input shaft... But its replacement often does not lead to a positive result, therefore it is not recommended to change it in the presence of a slight howl.

Or maybe it's not a box at all?

When diagnosing the gearbox, be sure to carefully consider the fact that in the presence of a constantly increasing howl in all gears, it is not only the gearbox that may be guilty of the origin of sounds. On models with a classic drive, the source of howling can be a gearbox. rear axle, having a bevel hypoid transmission. When the teeth of the gears are worn or with a significant backlash in the bearings, a howl will accompany all modes of movement. Similar symptoms also accompany four-wheel drive vehicle in case of malfunction front axle... In this case, the sound will come from the center of the cabin, and will be observed under loads.

Summing up

When making repairs to the singing gearbox, it is important to remember the poor quality of the manufactured units and spare parts. It is not indicative that the purchased spare parts or units are new - there may be defects in them. Sometimes, with minor noises in the checkpoint, it is easier to add the sound of the radio in the cabin than trying to eliminate the cricket several times to sort out the box.

Good luck on the road!