Gold 1 million box on the Getrag conveyor 2012

Transmission manufacturer Getrag has formed a joint venture with FoMoCo (Ford Motor Company) to produce preselective dual-clutch transmissions. As well as DSG, they are of two types:

• with wet clutch WD (Wet Dual Clutch)
• with dry clutch DD (Dry Dual Clutch)

The gearbox is identical in design to the DSG with a wet clutch, the only difference is in the software and the number of gears: the DSG has a maximum of 7, while the PowerShift has 6. For VAG, the mechanical part and software were developed by Borg Warner, and for Ford - Getrag and Luk ... DSG works harder, with a slight jerk at the start and a well-felt engine braking under the throttle. With PowerShift, shifting is softer, almost like a classic hydromechanical automatic, but you can effectively brake the motor only in manual mode. The specialized club service DCT + carries out diagnostics and repairs of the Ford Focus 3 robot box in Moscow with a guarantee.

Decoding of designations (Getrag)

DCL - longitudinal gearbox arrangement (L)

DCT - Transverse Gearbox (T)

6DCT / 7DCT - 6/7 speeds

250/450/750 - transmitted torque in N / m

For DCTs with low torque (up to 300 Nm), DD dry clutch boxes are installed. For more powerful cars, there is a "wet" WD clutch (450/470, etc.).

Ford Focus 3 is equipped with 3 types of transmissions: manual transmission, automatic transmission with a torque converter, robot box ff3 Powershift (dry 6DCT250 and wet 6DCT450 for diesel versions).

6DCT250 device (DPS6)

Powershift 6DCT250 is a product the latest developments Gearbox with two clutches from Getrag. They combine the convenience of a conventional automatic transmission with the performance and high level of efficiency of manual transmissions. All Getrag transmissions with double clutch operate without interrupting the power flow and achieve a 4-8% reduction in CO2 emissions. Compared to classic torque converters automatic transmissions The DPS6 with dry double clutch and electromechanical drive achieves a reduction in fuel consumption of up to 20% (compared to a conventional automatic transmission, not a car in general).

As usual, Getrag declares that the 6DCT250 is filled with oil for life. But it is still worth changing to avoid problems ahead of time.

The 6-speed 6DCT250 transmission has been developed for front-wheel drive / transverse configuration in the compact segment and is rated for torque up to 280 Nm. It can be equipped separately with the system all-wheel drive as well as Start- / Stop function without hardware modification. The DPS6 can also be used in a hybrid drive (combined with an electric motor).

Efficiency comparison manual transmission and 6DCT250

Key features of 6DCT250:

• Uses a dry clutch that does not cool in oil. Efficiency is increased.
• Filled with oil and sealed for life (design life 10 years or 240,000 km), does not require periodic maintenance.
• Has a dry weight of 73 kg
• Faster gear changes and lower transmission losses.
• Electro-mechanical actuators eliminate the need for hydraulic lines.
• Dry clutch does not require cooling
• The complexity of the design can lead to problems and difficulties in repair

It is worth noting that manufacturers are switching from dry clutch gearboxes to wet clutch gearboxes due to higher reliability and thermal limitations (even with low torque applications, which is the area of ​​dry clutches).

What Powershift 6DCT250 consists of:

As mentioned earlier, the DPS6 is mechanically composed of 2 mechanical boxes that interact using electrical equipment and electronics.

Dual clutches and dual input shafts

• There are 2 input shafts, one is hollow (blue) and the other is solid (yellow) and sits coaxially inside the hollow shaft.
• The inner shaft (yellow) has fixed gears for gears 1, 3, and 5; while the outer shaft (blue) has fixed gears for 2, 4, 6 and vice versa. Note that this shaft only has 2 gears, each of which is used for two gears.
• Each of these shafts is connected to a coupling via splines on the outside of the shaft.
• This arrangement provides a compact package for both couplings.
• Unlike other clutches seen in manual transmissions, in normal rest the clutch is held by springs (i.e. does not transmit torque) and must be actuated to close and held closed by a holding current applied to the actuator.
• The transmitting electronics ensures that only one clutch is closed at any time.

Output shafts

• The transmission has two output shafts (shown in blue). Contrary to initial considerations, they do not carry gears that match the input shafts. Instead, the gears they carry are determined by the order of the selector forks.
• The gears on the output shafts are not fixed, but are free. Like the manual transmission, they are equipped with synchronizers to match the speeds and lock the gears.
• Gears 1, 3,4, 5, 6 and reverse are equipped with one synchromesh, while gear 2 is double syncronized.
• The second gear is connected to the rear gear on the same shaft (although both can rotate freely, they do it together).
• Note that the orange reverse gears on both output shafts are directly connected to each other. However, they do not interact with either the yellow or blue input shafts.
• As a result, the output shafts and input shafts are not in the same plane - instead, they are located in a triangular formation.

Differential

• Both output shafts transmit torque through the output gear to a common differential shaft (green).
• This differential is not in the same plane as the output shafts, it is biased again - 4 shafts are arranged in a parallelogram shape.
• A differential serves the same purpose as a mechanically equipped vehicle - it allows each of the driven wheels to rotate at a different speed (for example, when cornering).

Synchronizer sleeves and selector forks

• When discussing the output shafts, it was mentioned that none of the gears are attached to the shafts, but instead rotates freely.
• There are 4 synchronizers (and matching assemblies) that allow these freely rotating gears to match the output shaft speed and lock the gears. 3 of these bushings are used to engage the two gears (at different times) and 1 sleeve is used for only one gear.
• Each of these synchronizer sleeves has a corresponding shift fork that can move the sleeve either way (to lock the gear) or in the middle (to unlock the gear).

Up to this point, the components that have been considered are all familiar, as they closely resemble manual transmissions - rather, two gearbox, since we have two clutches, two input shafts and two output shafts. Only with a differential, both of these units are combined into one output. Next, we will consider the components that are just the whole chip of the DCT Powershift 6DCT250.

Shear drives (actuators)

• For now, we need to focus on the two electric motors present in the TCM as they provide rotary output from the TCM to drive the selector forks.
• The motors are of DC brushless design. They have built-in Hall sensors to determine the position of the rotor and count the number of rotations it has traveled.
• Through a system of cylindrical gear wheels these rotating selector drums run at a specific angle (the travel range for these drums is 200-290 degrees).
• The side switches have a slot cut into them. The selector fork has a tab that is located in this socket.
• The slot is angled to the ends of the stroke so that when the selector lever is rotated, the tab is forced perpendicular to the direction of rotation (i.e. parallel to the axis of the selector drum). If this is confused, to understand it, imagine how a screw converts the rotary motion of the screwdriver into a straight motion.
• Thereby rotational motion generated by electric motors can be converted into moving selector forks back and forth... This allows the selector forks to move the synchroniser hubs forward or backward to lock and unlock certain gears.
• For comparison, in mechanical box gears, the selector forks are manually operated using the gear shift levers.

Clutch actuators

• Like a shift actuator, a clutch actuator converts electric motor movement into lateral movement.
• And again, a brushless DC motor is used.
• As previously mentioned, the clutch is held open by spring pressure by default and does not transmit torque.
• To close the clutch, the motor rotates a worm gear, which pushes the clutch actuator.
• To keep the clutch closed, a holding current is applied to the motor.
• The following 2 animated images are a representative representation of how each of the clutches works. V DSG principle the same.

Transmission Control Module (TCM)

TCM 6DCT250 control unit

The image for the shift actuators shows a pink part described as TCM. A little higher in the picture, which has input connectors from the ECU. The opposite side of this has the output of the 2 motors we saw earlier.

The TCM collects input signals from various sensors, evaluates the input, and controls the drives accordingly.

Inputs used by TCM include:

• Transmission distance (P / R / N / D / S / L, etc.)
• Vehicle speed
• Engine speed and engine torque
• Throttle position
• Engine temperature
• Ambient temperature (to determine how viscous the transmission oil, for cold starts)
• Steering wheel angle (to avoid overloading or underdrive when cornering)
• Brake inputs
• Input shaft speed (for both input shafts)
• Ratio (tilt) of vehicle from body control module (BCM)

The TCM controls the actuator motors with open loop control to provide adaptive control. This allows the TCM to identify and adapt to the following:

• Clutch engagement points (F1 fans will hear about "clutch bite point")
• Coefficient of friction of adhesion
• Position of each synchronizer assembly

The information for the above is stored in non-volatile RAM in the TCM. This is what constitutes the transmission-specific control models studied.

Sensors

There are several sensors that collect and provide TCM information, both from the DCT and elsewhere in the vehicle. Those related to the DCT itself:

• Input Shaft Speed ​​Sensor (ISS Sensor) - Magneto-Resistive Sensor - one per input shaft
• Output shaft speed sensor (OSS sensor) - Magneto-resistive sensor again - one sensor attached to differential
• Transmission range sensor (TR sensor) - for detecting the position of the selector lever and converting it into a PWM signal

Powershift DPS6 operating modes

Sport (S) and SelectShift (+/-)

• Sport (S) mode allows the engine to climb higher before upshifting.
• This allows the driver's requests for upshifts and downshifts to be allowed using the +/- button.
• These are only "requests" because the TCM will evaluate this in relation to other inputs before shifting gears - for example, this prevents shifting to more high revs to avoid hitting the cutoff

Parking mode (P)

Parking mode

• A parking lot is fixed on the output shaft so that the output shaft does not rotate.
• The latch (pin) is spring loaded to ensure that it does not jump out if not disconnected.
• Both clutches are not actuated, so they both open automatically.
• Shift drives lock gears 1 and R - since pulling the car out of P will cause one of these gears to be selected.
• The user manual also recommends to install parking brake(handbrake) to ensure that this mechanism does not take all the load off the vehicle (e.g. on a slope).

Assist mode when starting from a slope

• This function is not an integral part of the 6DCT250, it also uses the braking system.
• When the vehicle is at a standstill on an incline greater than 3 degrees, assistance is activated.
• The braking system is pressurized to hold the vehicle until sufficient torque is established to move the vehicle. This may take 2-3 seconds.
• This allows the driver to move the right foot from the brake to the gas pedal without rolling away.

Neutral mode (N)

• The clutches will be disengaged when the brakes are applied.
• This improves fuel economy, improves landing gear downshifting and improves traction reliability.

Warning modes

• If the clutch temperature rises, warnings are generated to instruct the driver to stop on the vehicle until the clutch cools down. The driver can also accelerate the movement of the vehicle to cool the clutch through the air flow (the clutches can overheat when stopping and driving).
• To reduce clutch heating, the clutch will engage faster than normal and the engine torque will decrease.
• If the clutch temperature exceeds 300 degrees Celsius, the clutches are disengaged.
• If one of the clutch actuator motors fails, then the transmission adapts to this using only the gears on the other clutch.
• If the speed sensors do not work on the input shaft, then the gears on this shaft are locked.
• If the TCM itself or the TR (transmission range) sensor does not work, then both clutches are disengaged, and vehicle cannot be controlled.
• These failure modes will trigger the MIL / CEL (malfunction indicator / engine light).

Typical 6DCT250 Problems

Basically, problems are with the clutch, TCM, shift forks and, also encountered, problems with the mechanical part of the gearbox (see examples of work). The input shaft oil seal is also leaking.

Consider the main ones related to the TCM block:

• The box jerks when switching from 1st to 2nd. A software (firmware) update for the TCM control unit is required.
• While working on dashboard The ESP lamp comes on and "Hill Assist Not Available" appears.
• Transmissions disappear (not necessarily all), crawling mode is disabled

When installing a new robot control unit (TCM), it must be registered (VIN, calibration). We provide this service too.

P0606 - Processor Malfunction
P07A3 - Seizure in the ON state of the friction element A of the transmission.
P0702 - Electrical malfunction of the transmission control system
P0707 - Low voltage input signal in the electrical circuit of the transmission range switch A
P0715 - electrical circuit of the sensor A of the input shaft speed
P0718 - intermittent signal in the electrical circuit of the input shaft speed sensor A
P0720 - Output Shaft Sensor Circuit
P0723 - intermittent signal in the electrical circuit of the output shaft sensor
P0805 - Clutch Position Sensor Electrical Circuit
P0806 - malfunction of the electrical circuit of the clutch position sensor
P0810 - clutch position sensor
P087A - Clutch Pedal Limit Switch Circuit
P087b - malfunction of the electrical circuit of the clutch pedal switch
P0882 - Low voltage input power signal
P0900 - open circuit of the clutch actuator
P0901 - quality problems of the clutch actuator
P090A - open circuit of the clutch actuator
P090b - violation of the parameters of the clutch actuator circuit
P0949 - Adaptive ASM Data Acquisition Failed.
P1719 - Invalid engine torque signal.
P1799 - Open circuit between TCM and ABS.
P2701 - Problems with the operation of the friction element of the transmission.
P2765 - malfunction of the input shaft rotation sensor (turbine)
P2802 Low voltage input signal in the electrical circuit of the transmission range
P2831 - malfunction of the shift fork A
P2832 - Problems with the quality of the shift fork
P2836 - Gearshift Fork Position B Circuit
P285C - Parameters of the actuator circuit of the fork A
P2860 - Fork B Actuator Circuit Parameters
P2872 Clutch A jammed in engagement
P287A - Jammed clutch B
P287B - Gearshift Fork Calibration Not Registered
P090C - Clutch B Actuator Circuit Low Voltage
P0607 - characteristics of the control module
U0294 - Lost Communication With PMM
U0415 - Invalid data received from the ABS module
U1013 - Invalid Internal Control Module Monitoring Data Received From TCM
U0101 - Lost Communication With TCM
U0028 Vehicle data bus
U0073 - the data bus of the control module is off

Clutch adaptation

Tips for the correct use of the 6DCT250 from Getrag

• Before putting the car on "P", the driver must hold down the brake pedal, raise the handbrake (parking brake), and only then can the rocker be moved to "P".
• In the "R", "D" and "S" modes, do not allow the engine to run for a long time with the brake pedal depressed. In the position of the selector "D" and with the brake pedal depressed, the clutch of the robot Powershift DPS6 6DCT250 does not open completely and slips slightly, therefore, after a while, local overheating of the unit is possible. The company's specialists advise advised not to stand like this for more than two or three minutes and move the selector lever to "N" or "P".
• Car towing in "N" mode is allowed up to 60 km / h.

Examples of our work

The primary function of the TCM is to collect and analyze incoming sensor signals. Having processed all the signals, the TCM already controls the final control elements.

The main functions of the TCM are shifting and clutch release. The TCM uses four brushless DC motors with integrated hall sensors to regulate the clutch and shift system.

The principle of operation of the PowerShift transmission.

The PowerShift box uses a dry double clutch in combination with electromagnetic regulation in
this gearbox selects two gears at the same time. In this case, one gear is engaged in driving mode,
the second is already engaged, but due to the second clutch, which is open, it instantly switches to the next
transfer. Depending on the position of the accelerator pedal and the driver's request, the clutch of the previously activated gear is opened and at the same time the clutch of the preselected gear is closed. As a result of this overlap of the clutches, when the transmission is changed, the loss of tractive effort is minimal.

The choice of operating modes of the manual transmission is carried out by the selector lever of the operating modes of the robotic gearbox, which is installed on the floor between the front seats, connected to the manual transmission with a cable.

Dual clutch - PowerShift (Focus 3, Ecosport, Fiesta).

1 - Clutch block.
2 - Double release bearing.
3 - Two electromechanical lever actuators.
4 - Two DC motors.

The clutches are equipped with an internal servo wear correction control. Thus, keeping the required stroke of the actuator within a narrow framework. Torsional vibration dampers are integrated into the clutch.

Ford Focus 3. Insufficient oil pressure (the indicator of insufficient oil pressure is on)

Scroll possible malfunctions	Diagnostics	Elimination methods
Low engine oil	Oil level indicator	Add oil
Defective oil filter	Replace the filter with a known good filter	Replace defective oil filter
Loose tightening of the drive pulley mounting bolt auxiliary units	Check bolt tightness	Tighten the bolt to the specified torque
Clogging of the oil receiver mesh	Inspection	Clear the mesh
Misalignment, clogging pressure reducing valve oil pump or valve spring loosening	Inspection when disassembling the oil pump	Clean or replace defective pressure reducing valve. Replace pump
Worn oil pump gears		Replace oil pump
Excessive clearance between bearing shells and journals crankshaft	Determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station)	Replace worn out earbuds. Replace or repair the crankshaft if necessary
Defective oil pressure sensor	We unscrew the insufficient oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty	Replace the faulty oil pressure sensor

Reasons for a drop in oil pressure

There is a light on the dashboard that signals an emergency oil pressure in the engine. When it lights up it is a clear sign of a malfunction. We will tell you what to do if the oil pressure lamp lights up and how to fix the malfunction.

The oil indicator light can come on for two different reasons: either low oil pressure or low oil level. But what exactly the oil light on the dashboard means, only the instruction manual will help to find out. It will help us that, as a rule, budget cars do not have a low oil level indicator, but only low pressure oils.

Insufficient oil pressure

If the oil can light comes on, this means insufficient pressure oil in the engine. As a rule, it lights up for only a few seconds and does not pose a great threat to the motor. For example, it can light up when the vehicle rolls heavily in a corner or during a cold start in winter.

If the low oil pressure light comes on due to low level oil, then this level, as a rule, is already critically low. The first thing to do when the oil pressure light comes on is to check for the presence of engine oil. If the oil level is below normal, then this is the reason for the lighting of this lamp. This problem can be solved simply - you need to add oil to the desired level. If the light goes out, we rejoice, and do not forget to top up the oil in time, otherwise it can turn into serious problems.

If the oil pressure light is on, but everything is in order with the oil level on the dipstick, then another reason why the indicator could light up is a failed oil pump. It does not do its job of circulating enough oil in the engine's lubrication system.

In any case, if the oil pressure or low oil level light comes on, the machine must be stopped immediately by pulling over to the side or to a safer place and turned off. Why stop right away? Because if the oil in the engine has dried up significantly, then the latter can stop and break with the prospect of very expensive repairs. Remember that oil is very important to keep your engine running. Without oil, the engine will fail very quickly - sometimes in a matter of minutes.

Also this situation occurs when the engine oil is changed to a new one. After initial start-up, the oil pressure light may come on. If the oil good quality, it should go out after 10-20 seconds. If it does not go out, the reason is a defective or inoperative oil filter. It needs to be replaced with a new high-quality one.

Faulty oil pressure sensor

Oil pressure on Idling(at about 800 - 900 rpm) should not be less than 0.5 kgf / cm2. Sensors for measuring emergency oil pressure are available with different response ranges: from 0.4 to 0.8 kgf / cm2. If a sensor with a response value of 0.7 kgf / cm2 is installed on the car, then even at 0.6 kgf / cm2 it will turn on a warning lamp, signaling, as it were, an emergency oil pressure in the engine.
To understand whether the oil pressure sensor is to blame for the light bulb lighting up or not, you need to increase the crankshaft speed to 1000 rpm at idle. If the light goes out, then the oil pressure in the engine is normal. If not, then you need to contact a specialist who will measure the oil pressure with a pressure gauge, connecting it instead of the sensor.
Cleaning helps from false alarms of the sensor. It is necessary to unscrew it and thoroughly clean all oil channels, because the cause of false alarms of the sensor may be in blockages.

If the oil level is normal and the sensor is good

First of all, you need to check the oil dipstick and make sure that the oil level has not increased after the last check? Does the dipstick smell like gasoline? Perhaps gasoline or antifreeze gets into the engine. It is easy to check for the presence of gasoline in the oil; you need to lower the dipstick into the water and see if gasoline stains remain. If so, then you need to contact a car service, the engine may need to be repaired.
If there is a malfunction in the engine, as the oil pressure light comes on, it is easy to notice. Engine malfunctions are accompanied by a loss of power, an increase in fuel consumption, exhaust pipe black or blue smoke comes out.

If the oil level is normal, then you should not be afraid of a long indication of low oil pressure, for example, during a cold start. In winter, at low temperatures, this is an absolutely normal effect.
After an overnight stay, oil drains from all highways and thickens. The pump takes a certain amount of time to fill the lines and build up the required pressure. Oil is supplied to the main and connecting rod journals earlier than to the pressure sensor, therefore, wear of engine parts is excluded. If the oil pressure lamp does not go out for about 3 seconds, it is not dangerous.

What can you do yourself

Measurement of engine oil pressure
The problem of low oil pressure is greatly complicated by the relationship of lubricant flow and low level with the overall pressure in the system. In this case, a number of faults can be eliminated independently.

If leaks are found, the problem is fairly easy to localize and solve. For example, oil leak from under oil filter eliminated by tightening or replacing it. The problem with the oil pressure sensor, through which the lubricant flows, is solved in a similar way. The sensor is tightened or simply replaced with a new one.
As for oil seal leaks, in this case it will take time, tools and skills. At the same time, you can replace the front or rear crankshaft oil seal with your own hands in your garage with an inspection pit.

Oil leakage from under the valve cover or in the sump area can be eliminated by tightening the fasteners, replacing the rubber gaskets, using special engine sealants. Abnormal geometry of the mating surfaces or damage to the valve cover / sump will indicate the need to replace such parts.

If coolant enters engine oil, then you can remove the cylinder head yourself and replace the head gasket, while observing all the recommendations regarding the removal and subsequent tightening of the cylinder head. An additional check of the mating surfaces will indicate whether you need to grind the block head. If cracks in the cylinder block or head are found, repair is also possible.
As for the oil pump, in case of wear, it is better to immediately replace this element with a new one. It is also not recommended to clean the oil receiver, that is, the part is completely changed.
In the event that the problem in the lubrication system is not so obvious, and you have to repair the car yourself, then at the very beginning you should measure the oil pressure in the engine.
To solve the problem, as well as taking into account the exact idea of ​​what the oil pressure in the engine is measured in and how it is done, it is necessary to prepare in advance optional equipment... Note that there is a ready-made device on the free market for measuring the oil pressure in the engine.

As an option, the universal oil pressure meter "Measure". Such a device is quite affordable and has everything you need in the kit. You can also make a similar device with your own hands. This requires a suitable oil resistant hose, pressure gauge and adapters.

For measurement, ready-made or homemade device connected instead of the oil pressure sensor, after which the pressure readings on the manometer are evaluated. Please note that ordinary hoses should be used when self-production it is forbidden. The fact is that the oil quickly corrodes the rubber, after which the detached parts can get into the oil system.

Outcomes

The pressure in the lubrication system can drop for many reasons:
- the quality of the oil or the loss of its properties;
- leaks of oil seals, gaskets, seals;
- the oil "presses" from the engine (pressure rises due to malfunctions of the crankcase ventilation system);
- malfunctions of the oil pump, other breakdowns;
-power unit may be badly worn, etc.

In some cases, drivers use an additive to increase engine oil pressure. For example, XADO revitalizant. According to manufacturers, such an anti-smoke additive with revitalizant reduces oil consumption, allows the lubricant to maintain the required viscosity when heated to high temperatures, restores damaged crankshaft journals and liners, etc.

As practice shows, an effective solution to the problem of low pressure of the additive cannot be considered, but as a temporary measure for old worn out motors, this method may be suitable. I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that the blinking of the oil pressure light does not always indicate a problem with the internal combustion engine and its systems.
Rarely, but it happens that electrical problems arise. For this reason, the possibility of damage to electrical elements, contacts, pressure sensor or the wiring itself should not be ruled out.

Finally, we add that using only the recommended oil helps to avoid many problems with the oil system and engine. It is also necessary to select a lubricant taking into account the individual characteristics of operation. Deserves no less attention and correct selection seasonal viscosity index (summer or winter oil)

Engine oil and filters must be changed correctly and done strictly according to the regulations, since an increase in the service interval leads to severe contamination of the lubrication system. In this case, decay products and other deposits actively settle on the surfaces of parts and channel walls, clog filters, the oil receiver grid. The oil pump in such conditions may not provide the required pressure, oil starvation occurs and the wear of the motor increases significantly.

Automobile Ford focus 3 generations replaced its predecessor, and did it quite successfully. The car has remained reliable, has become more modern, and is equipped with up-to-date electronics.

It is not the most expensive representative of the carmaker Ford, but it is the Focus that is among the best-selling cars in the world.

Automatic transmissions installed on the Focus 3 raise many questions. This is a rather controversial gearbox option, which not everyone decides to buy. Although in practice the transmission works well, without any complaints about efficiency and durability.

Until now, motorists and experts cannot come to a consensus on changing the oil in an automatic transmission at Ford Focus 3. Therefore, you need to consider this issue in detail and give appropriate recommendations to car owners.

Replacement frequency

Let's start with the information provided by the official owner's manual for the 3rd generation Ford Focus. It indicates that the oil poured into automatic transmission gear (PowerShift), serves for the entire period. That is, you do not need to change it. Because of this, some difficulties arise regarding the replacement procedure for those who decide, contrary to the manual, to change the working fluid in the automatic transmission.

Experts still advise not to build on the official operating manual, but periodically change the lubricant in the gearbox. The only question is when you will be, and at what mileage the replacement will become a necessity.

In the case of an automatic transmission installed on a Ford Focus 3, replacement should be carried out every 100 thousand kilometers. This is the average optimum running time of the lubricant.

If the operating conditions are difficult, then the service interval is reduced to 60 - 80 thousand kilometers. Practice shows that even in Russia the Focuses 3 behave well, the boxes can withstand the local climate and the rather low quality of roads. Therefore, most car owners will cover 100 thousand kilometers and even more without any problems.

Nothing eternal exists, so the statement about the "indestructibility" of the factory lubricant in the Focus automatic transmission cannot be considered fair. With use, the oil will lose its properties and characteristics. The box will start to work intermittently, there will be serious malfunctions and breakdowns. As a result, expensive repairs will be required.

Given these facts, it is better to periodically change the lubricant and extend the life of the gearbox than to engage in complex and financially costly repairs. If the automatic transmission is severely worn, it may need to be completely replaced.

Try to keep track of how many kilometers. you ran on old oil, periodically checking its condition. If you notice clear signs of fluid wear, be sure to send the car to a car service or change the lubricant yourself. In the case of a Ford Focus 3 car, changing the oil in a robotic automatic transmission can be done by hand with the appropriate tools, conditions and skills.

Volume and condition

Since the gearbox on the Ford Focus 3 model belongs to maintenance-free automatic transmission, there is no traditional dipstick here. This somewhat complicates the procedure for measuring the volume of liquid in the crankcase, but does not make it impossible.

Consequences of working with worn-out oil

The automatic transmission installed on the Ford Focus 3 has a rather complex design and general organization of its work. It is difficult to repair it, and therefore it is in the interests of the car owner himself to maintain the box's operability throughout the entire operational period.

There are several reasons for not adhering to the manufacturer's guidelines and still changing the lubricant in the transmission periodically. Gradual wear and further driving with oil that has lost its original properties leads to the following consequences:

• the internal components of the gearbox wear out faster;
• seizures are formed;
• corrosion appears;
• the sealing elements wear out;
• the working temperature changes;
• oil seals lose their properties;
• the likelihood of transmission breakdown increases.

So that you do not face such problems, and you do not have to pay a lot of money for the repair or replacement of automatic transmission, monitor the condition of your car, change everything in time expendable materials and don't forget the importance of periodic check-ups.