How to make a backlit dashboard for a vaz car. Original tuning of the dashboard Beautiful instrument panel

Probably every motorist who owns a car of the VAZ family wants to modernize his dashboard... On modern foreign cars, the instrument dial is illuminated from the inside, which looks very attractive, as if the numbers and the instrument scale itself are shining. But the dashboards of VAZ cars are illuminated with ordinary lamps that emit light on the dials from the arrows, from the outside. At the same time, the brightness is low, and the detail of this backlight is not very effective. That is why most of the owners of such cars very often improve the dashboard with the help of backlighting. Plus, it's pretty easy to do it yourself.

To independently make a tuned backlight on VAZ cars, you do not need to have special skills, but in a specialized company this procedure will not be cheap. You can try to make the dashboard backlight from the inside, like on modern cars.

You will need a light-transmitting standard dashboard trim to work. Instrument panel with vehicle must be removed and disassembled. Do not forget to also dismantle the old cover and instrument arrows. In order for the illumination light to better enter the cover from the inside, special cuts should be made under the cover using a heated knife or a soldering iron.

Then we go directly to the highlight. It will be organized using LED strip. It is necessary to choose a tape that can be easily cut into small pieces, three diodes each. Regarding the uniformity of the glow, then it is made from ordinary foil using a reflector. For the speedometer and tachometer, we take three parts of the tape, and for the fuel level and coolant temperature indicators, one is enough.

The standard illumination of the VAZ should be retained, since its task will be to highlight the arrows on the instrument scale. If desired, it can also be upgraded by gluing in place of the standard lamps led strip... To prevent the highlighting from being too bright, you can tint it a little. Tinting is carried out using a tint film or black marker. It is better to leave the standard light filter, then the backlight will be soft and uniform with a bluish tint.

Everything should be connected to the contacts on the plate of the standard illumination lamps, having previously determined their polarity. In order to stabilize the current, it is advisable to use a driver to power the LEDs.

Illumination of the instrument panel VAZ 2114

First you need to remove the main backlight lamps along with the cartridges. Next, very carefully remove the arrows, prying them with something thin. You can simply crank them near the constraints and slowly pull them off the axis. On the given time there are many types of panels. On one part, the arrow drive is mounted on the main board, and on the other - on the basis of plexiglass.

After that, you need to carefully remove the plexiglass insert. Pry it off the edge and just peel it off. The sticky layer should not be soiled or washed. The insert must be turned over and placed on a clean surface. Using a blade, we erase the green dusting, which is noticeable in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe numbers. Now you can assemble the plexiglass and insert.

How to change the color of the instrument scale in a VAZ car

You need to take a piece of plastic and scissors. Cut out the contours so that the plastic fits into the main part. We also cut out the places for the arrow drives. Next, we apply the markup for the LEDs. Three LEDs are needed for fuel, four for temperature. Then we set the dashboard numbers for each scale.

Now, guided by the markings, we make holes for the LEDs and resistances. This can be done with a hot awl or small drill. The top of the LED needs to be ground off, since it has a lens for focusing the beam. It is important not to damage the light element itself. LEDs should be soldered in parallel with each other and in series with resistance.

How to install LEDs instead of incandescent lamps on the panel of a VAZ car

First, the base of the LEDs must be inserted into the housing and the connection wires lead out to the board. Next, we make a plexiglass insert with the body. The plexiglass should fit tightly. Fasten on the back with four screws. Then we install the board. Carefully, the pins of the wires from the arrows should not bend. Next, fasten with self-tapping screws or screws. Now we solder the power supply of the LEDs to the power wires of any standard lamp. We put on the arrows and set them to zero.

How to make the illumination of the instrument arrows on the dashboard of a VAZ car

To do this, you will need:

1. Fluorescent marker.
2. Super glue or glue moment.
3. Not power wires.
4. Ultraviolet light bulb.
5. Insert into the dashboard of the required model.
6. Soldering iron.

The plastic and the dashboard must be removed, then we disassemble it, remove the black plastic and glass, then carefully remove the arrows, after which the standard insert. We make holes if there are none in the new insert. To prevent the arrows from sticking, it is advisable to make the holes slightly larger than they were in the factory insert. Now you can take out the stock lighting and the board with bulbs.

The neon lamp should be glued to the top of the panel, the standard backlight should be replaced and the plastic protection should be glued on top. At the top, attach the neon lamp control unit. Observing the polarity, we connect the lamp to the place of the standard illumination.

Now we mount two lamps on the device. We connect all the wires and stretch them inside the partitions. We connect to the place of power supply and put the lamps. We carefully attach the wires to the plastic. We paint the arrows with a marker several times. Next, we collect and install the instrument panel.

Such a dashboard can be assembled for any car, it is a universal device. We assembled a dashboard based on an existing one called Venator.

To create it, you will need the following components:

• Arduino MEGA controller
• Tablet with operating systems Androir
• Wi-Fi module esp8266
• Power converter from 12 to 5 volts (you can use any car Charger for mobile phones).

All sensors in the car are connected to the Arduino controller. In our case, it was also necessary to install the speed sensor in the gearbox instead of the speedometer drive cable. And also bring a wire into the car from the ignition switch so that the controller can display the engine speed (this had to be done, since the tachometer was not installed in the OKE).

Scheme

The sensors must be connected to the controller as follows:

Sketch (firmware) for the Arduino Mega controller

You can download the finished sketch in the file by.

unsigned long micros_sp = 0, micros_th = 0;
volatile int tz;
volatile int sz;
volatile int sp; // speedometer pulses
volatile int th; // tachometer pulses
int analogInput; // array of analog values
int digitalInput; // array of digital values
String resultString = ""; //line
int i; // cycle counter

void setup () (
for (i = 0; i<=14; i++){ //обнуление массива аналоговых значений
digitalInput [i] = 0;
}
for (i = 0; i<=28; i++){ //обнуление массива цифровых значений
analogInput [i] = 0;
}
Serial.begin (115200);
Serial2.begin (115200); // com port initialization
attachInterrupt (0, speedometr, RISING); // interrupt the speedometer on the edges of the impulse
attachInterrupt (1, tahometr, RISING); // interrupt the tachometer on the edges of the pulse
}
//********************************************************************
void loop () (
analogInput = analogRead (0); // B13 voltage
analogInput = analogRead (1); // B24 fuel
analogInput = analogRead (2); // B21 cooling temperature
analogInput = analogRead (8); //
analogInput = analogRead (7); //
analogInput = analogRead (3); //
analogInput = analogRead (4); //
analogInput = analogRead (9); //
analogInput = analogRead (10); //
analogInput = analogRead (11); //
analogInput = analogRead (12); //
analogInput = analogRead (13); //
analogInput = analogRead (14); //
analogInput = analogRead (15); //
analogInput = analogRead (6); //

DigitalInput = digitalRead (4); // ignition
// digitalInput = digitalRead (5); //
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (53) + //
digitalRead (51) * 2; //
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (5) + // A14 left turn
digitalRead (6) * 2; // A13 right turn
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (8) + // A18 near
digitalRead (9) * 2; // A17 far
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (10) + // A16 ptf front
digitalRead (11) * 2; // A15 ptf rear
//********************************************************************
digitalInput = digitalRead (23); // A23 check
digitalInput =! digitalRead (21); // B 9 - level tzh
digitalInput =! digitalRead (31); // A19 - handbrake
digitalInput = digitalRead (25); // B 3 pad wear
digitalInput =! digitalRead (45); // B10 - fuel lamp
digitalInput =! digitalRead (51); // B12 - standby level
digitalInput =! digitalRead (47); // A24 - oil pressure
digitalInput = digitalRead (27); // A20 fan lamp
digitalInput =! digitalRead (29); // A23 charging
digitalInput = digitalRead (33); // A 5 abs
digitalInput = digitalRead (35); // A20 srs
digitalInput = digitalRead (37); // A 3 belt
digitalInput = digitalRead (39); // B 1 doors
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (22); // B 2 p
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (24); // A22 r
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (26); // A 7 n
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (28); // B 6 d
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (30); // B 5 s
digitalInput = digitalRead (41); // A 8 reserve
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (32); // A 9 reserve
digitalInput = digitalRead (43); // A10 reserve
digitalInput = 0; // digitalRead (34); // A11 reserve
digitalInput = digitalRead (49); // B 4 reserve

ResultString = String (resultString + sp);

resultString = String (resultString + th * 10);
resultString = String (resultString + ",");
for (i = 0; i<=14; i++){ //передаем аналоговые данные из массива в COM-port
resultString = String (resultString + analogInput [i]);
resultString = String (resultString + ",");
}
for (i = 0; i<=28; i++){ //передаем цифровые данные из массива в COM-port
resultString = String (resultString + digitalInput [i]);
}
resultString = String (resultString + ": \ n");
// Serial2.print (resultString);
Serial.print (resultString);
resultString = String ("");
tz = tz - 1;
sz = sz - 1;
if (tz == 0) (th = 0;)
if (sz == 0) (sp = 0;)
delay (50);
}
//********************************************************************
void speedometr () (// measure the frequency at the speedometer input by interruption
sp = (900000.0 / (micros () - micros_sp));
micros_sp = micros ();
sz = 10;
}
//********************************************************************
void tahometr () (// measure the frequency at the tachometer input by interruption
th = (2900000.0 / (micros () - micros_th));
micros_th = micros ();
tz = 10;
}

Setting up the ESP-8266

Before connecting the ESP8266 Module to the circuit, it must be flashed and configured in the Tcp2uart transparent bridge mode (tcp to uart), so that the received data from the com port is transmitted to the tablet via Wi-Fi.

It is better to flash through a USB-UART converter, which must have a 3.3V source output to power the ESP8266. Also, this source must provide the required current of at least 200mA.

The CPIO0 contact determines the operating mode of the module. When the contact is not connected, the module operates normally and executes AT commands. When the contact is closed to ground, the module is put into the firmware update mode. Switching the module to the firmware mode requires that the CPIO0 pin be connected to ground when the module is powered up. If you close the contact while the module is running, the module will not be switched to the firmware update mode. Now you need to start Write the COM port of your converter and select the firmware fullflash_tcp2uart.bin () itself.
Click Download and wait until the completion process reaches 99%. At this it will stop and you can turn off the module. Next, you need to supply power to the ESP8266, or immediately connect it to the Arduino controller according to the diagram. After appearing on the power module, start a search for wifi networks on your computer. The ESP8266 network should appear. Connect to it. After that, you need to go to the address http://192.168.4.1/fsupload in the browser (Enter the data Name: ESP8266 Password: 0123456789) and load the WEBFiles.bin file into the device (it is in the archive with the firmware). It remains to configure the Tcp-Uart bridge. To do this, go to http://192.168.4.1 in your browser. Go to the TCP-UART Settings tab and set the settings as in the screenshot below:

Ready! Now, when the ESP-8266 module is connected to the arduino, it works in the transparent bridge mode and transmits the necessary data via Wi-Fi.

Tablet Dashboard Application

We thank the user Frud of the Drive2 portal for the published version of the application and the description of the application installation method:

After installation, the application will already work. In order to enable its autoload, you must do the following:

After installation, you need to go to the Android settings, to the "Home screen" section, select the VenatorLite2 dashboard application. A very important point! You cannot exit to Android settings from the dashboard application to return to the standard Launcher. Before installing the application instead of Launcher, you need to make sure that you can go to the settings from the status bar. Otherwise, returning the standard launcher will be problematic.

NOTE! Before installing startup, it is advisable to configure and debug the application.

After starting the application, you need to go to the settings (click on the gear icon in the upper right). Here you need to specify the ip-address and port (In our example, these values ​​are: address 192.168.4.1 and port 3333).

It remains to connect and test everything. If everything is done correctly, then when the device is turned on and the "plus" is applied to the 4th pin of the arduino, the dashboard will turn on.

And here is what the dashboard installed in the OKU looks like:

We wish you success in the implementation of this project

Optitron is called a special illumination system of the instrument cluster. It works in this way: when the car ignition is off, the instrument cluster remains invisible. After turning the key, the arrows on the instruments should be the first to "come to life", and only after them are the instruments themselves - the speedometer, tachometer and other sensors.

The optitron has a special anti-glare background, thanks to which all pointers are well read in any conditions.

Required components

Lamp "Mayak" - a donor of components for lighting.

Lamp "Lighthouse", rear view.

SMD LEDs are actually what I was looking for in a lamp. The size is about 3 by 4 mm.

Entire lamp, consumption in "dimensions" mode.

Entire lamp, consumption in stop-light mode.

LEDs, 330 ohm resistors.

Blanks of printed circuit boards, cut on a lathe.

The boards are marked for the installation of components. The black points between the tracks are the places where the LEDs are installed.

Marking "tracks" on the board. Here is the fifth, the inner track is superfluous, I wanted to do a two-color backlight first, changed my mind.

Arrangement of LEDs by 3 in a cluster.

Alternatively, you can place LEDs on one track in series, it will be even easier, plus saving one track, but my version is more reliable.

We make an optitron

I am trying to clean the filter at the edge of the scale. The peculiarity of these scales is that they are oriented towards the use of ordinary light bulbs, therefore an additional layer of a dark filter (dots) is applied to them, which ensures uniformity of illumination (closer to the light bulb, it is darker). A yellow filter is also visible under the white diffusion layer. I would leave yellow, but removing black and white without touching yellow is unrealistic.

This is how it looks in the light. Despite the white backlighting, the numbers are still yellow thanks to the yellow filter, so it will have to be removed, although I did not want to.

Illumination of fuel and temperature gauges. I was afraid that there would not be enough three LEDs per scale, it turned out in vain - the scale is illuminated evenly, the gradient is not noticeable to the eye. Yes! As a result, there are only 3 tracks left.

Rear temperature and fuel gauges. The light filter is partially removed in the right places.

Ready-made scales for temperature and fuel.

I remove the light filter on the tachometer. I use nail polish remover and pieces of cotton pads (we take everything from the arsenal of my wife / mother / sister). The technology is as follows: we soak the pieces in liquid and apply them to the place for a minute. While we are doing the next one, the previous one will get wet and the coating can be easily removed with a fingernail. Neatly! The front side is very sensitive to solvents, especially alcohol!

I install the backlight of the tachometer. The hot melt glue from the "pistol" serves as support and fasteners at the same time.
Minus - in this version, the tachometer turned out to be non-removable.

Ready tachometer scale.

"Combined" lighting. LED tachometer, normal speedometer. Temperature scale and fuel gauge - with double illumination. Here the photo does not quite correctly convey the effect.

Speedometer backlight board. The main difficulty turned out to be here. Due to the built-in odometer, the speedometer device is very bulky and very little space is left for the backlight. As a result, there are very few trims and undercuts left from the scarf.

Rear speedometer backlight board. Had to rebuild the track this way

I install the speedometer backlight. Two lights did not fit, moved to the side surface

I connect the speedometer backlight, check it. Between the tachometer and the speedometer, common plus and minus are displayed in the T10 base, a protective diode and a common current-limiting resistor (all from the same lamp) are also installed in it, stuck into the standard cartridge from under the backlight.

Ready-made speedometer scale

Entire tidy. At the moment, finished state.

conclusions

- The inner edges of the numbers are slightly shaded by the protruding parts of the devices;
- I didn't shine through the inscriptions, I didn't want to overload the panel with light - it was necessary to seal it with black tape from the inside;
- Odometers were poorly highlighted (one must think);
- The arrows were not highlighted, left the usual bulbs.

The panel is in working order. In the photo it looks close to the present. Time - afternoon, summer. It is bright at night, a little distracting from habit. I hope that over time, the brightness will shrink.

To make their car stand out from the gray mass, many car owners do tuning. However, tuning today means not only improving the appearance of a car, but also improving the interior in its cabin. One of the options for improving the interior is tuning the dashboard. You can learn more about this procedure, as well as upgrade options, from the material provided.

[Hide]

Decorative tuning method

If you decide to make, then you must first of all ensure the optimal combination of the device with the salon interior. In addition, in the end, the dashboard must in any case meet all the requirements of passive safety.

So, the very process of decorative improvement consists in adding external elements to the existing control panel, for example:

• you can use leatherette to cover the shield material;
• you can carry out the procedure for sticking special overlays on the scales;
• tuning the tidy can also be to provide a brighter glow of the device.

Please note - in order to make tuning yourself, in any case, you will have to either partially or completely dismantle the tidy. Next, we will briefly describe each of the methods.

Fitting tidy

The PCB constriction procedure is relevant if the device has lost its original appearance, and there are defects on its surface. Leatherette, leatherette or other materials can be used as the material for the constriction. But it should be borne in mind that some materials after constriction can create glare in the sun, as well as give off an unpleasant odor. Therefore, the question of the selection of material should be approached responsibly.

For example, if you decide to use leatherette for constriction, then first you should cut it out, while taking into account the size of the PP, as well as its shape. This is done so that the leatherette does not stretch and gather in folds, therefore, for constriction, you always need to dismantle the tidy. In this case, you can make more neat and even seams and joints, and you can use ordinary cardboard for cutting. All the components of the cut are sewn together, and all the seams must be hidden inside. The cladding material itself can be fixed with glue or self-tapping screws (the author of the video about the hauling is the Puls Avto channel).

In order not to waste time and effort on hauling, you can do it easier - you buy a special cover on the dashboard and simply install it on top. Such an overlay must be selected in accordance with the car model.

Color solutions

Tuning the instrument panel can also consist in changing colors.

The procedure consists of the following stages:

1. First of all, you need to remove the dimensions from the PCB.
2. Next, a new scale is prepared - all the necessary divisions and numbers should be applied to it (there are many options on the Web, you can download a ready-made one). The stores also sell ready-made decorative dashboards, so if your budget allows, you can buy a full-fledged branded device.
3. After that, the template that you made or downloaded should be attached to the material that will be used on the new scale. Alternatively, the material can be thin plastic, photographic paper, etc.
4. If you decide to install chrome rings in the dashboard on a tachometer or speedometer, or just put a new scale, then for better fixation of the instrument arrow you should remove it. Chrome rings can also be purchased from a store or online. Of course, later it will need to be installed in place.

Photo gallery "Tuning options"

LED installation

A DIY LED panel is also quite simple and one of the most common tuning options.

This procedure is carried out as follows:

1. First, the PCB must be dismantled, all standard bulbs must be removed.
2. Next, you need to determine the places where you will mount the diode lighting sources - of course, for better visibility, they should be placed around the perimeter.
3. Decide on the color of the diodes - it should provide a comfortable environment while driving, while not interfering with the driver.
4. Further, you have two options - either simply replace the bulbs with diodes, buying the appropriate ones in the store so that they fit the standard sockets, or start installing the diodes in new places. To do this, you will need to drill holes in the PCB where the light source will be installed. Of course, the first option is simpler, there is nothing complicated in its implementation, but we will consider the second method.
5. After the holes are drilled, the light sources should be connected to each other using soldering - you can take a flexible wire for connection, its thickness should be small.
6. So that you can subsequently adjust the brightness of the lighting, you can add a variable resistor to the circuit. Depending on the model, an auto rheostat installed during production can be used for this purpose.
7. If you are using white light sources, you can paint the light bulb with varnish or special paper to provide a different shade.
8. The diode elements should be soldered to the power circuit, and then connected to the PCB, while it is important to observe the polarity.
9. Then the diagnostics of the control panel performance is performed and its further installation on the car (the author of the video is Lesha Master).

Painting tidy

Another option is to paint the instrument panel, or rather, the scales themselves - tachometer, speedometer, you can also paint temperature sensors, fuel volume, etc. If you install diode light sources in the shield, then painting the PP (necessarily with fluorescent paint) will give a brighter and more modern look to the device. It is necessary to paint carefully so as not to spray paint on the flap, otherwise not only the scales will stand out, but also traces of paint, and this will not look aesthetically pleasing.

New instrument panel illumination in a classic folk car VAZ adds sophistication and a sense of comfort to the interior. Installing neon or even LED illumination on a car requires a lot of money for such an expensive pleasure. The best way to solve the problem is to replace the dashboard backlight. on their own... The process of replacing the backlight in your garage, firstly, is not difficult, and secondly, it requires less money. One of the options for tuning your car is a special overlay for the dashboard, but it will cost a lot. It will be better if you do the tuning of the instrument panel on your own.

To bring the matter to the end, you need to be patient, as well as the tools and necessary materials. The first step in creating perfection is disassembling the dashboard. To do this, you need to remove the protective glass of the devices. The next step is to remove the arrows from the instruments. In order not to damage the arrows made of fragile material, before removing the arrow with a screwdriver, put several layers of cardboard under the opposite end of the plastic. Using a little force, lightly remove the arrow from the axis. Similar actions need to be done with the remaining arrows.

The dashboard backing is also very easy to remove. To remove it, you need any clerical knife. The tip of a knife is pushed between the panel and the substrate, and then we cut a layer of sealant around the perimeter of the substrate. After removing the protective glass of the backing, we proceed to further work on tuning the panel.

A light filter is placed on the surface of the dashboard under the substrate, which evenly distributes the illumination over the entire area of ​​the dashboard. This filter should be removed using a clerical knife, gently scraping off the light guide layer.

A light filter is a special paint that is applied to the back of the dashboard substrate and provides color illumination to numbers and other information signaling devices. After rough processing of the substrate, the places where the filter was applied must be treated with acetone or alcohol. The reagent will remove any remaining paint and also degrease the surface and prepare it for the next treatment.

At the next stage of work, you will need to change the dashboard backlight. First you need to say so - "fill your hand" and change the odometer backlight. Odometer is an indicator of the distance traveled by a car, measured in kilometers or miles. In order to install a new odometer backlight, you must first remove the odometer screen, remove the blue protective film, remove the old backlight bulb and replace it with a new LED. For the new dashboard illumination, you can use a multi-color LED, which has the ability to change colors at the user's request. The LED is connected to the standard bulb holder, then we put the odometer screen in its place.

The next step is to completely replace the dashboard lighting. We attach the new LEDs to the dashboard frame. The multicolor LEDs that we are installing in this case are sold with a color switch. If your budget is tight, you can move away from multicolor LEDs in favor of regular LEDs. We install the LEDs on the seats and connect them with a standard contact of the previous dashboard illumination.

The arrows of the speedometer and tachometer must be able to change the backlight. Carrying out such an operation will require the removal of old paint from the arrow. In order for the paint to be easily removed, you must first remove it from the surface with a clerical knife, and then walk the surface with acetone or industrial alcohol. When the arrow is clean of paint, you can paint it with white nail polish, or something else. The main thing in this process is that the arrow is exactly white, since only white can transmit the entire range of LEDs.

If you installed multi-color LED backlighting on the VAZ car dashboard, you need to install a color switch in order to be able to select the color of the dashboard backlight. The switch is recommended to be installed in the lower right corner of the dashboard. When all the work has already been done, you can proceed to the final assembly of the finished panel.

The first step is to start by installing the backing board. Apply a layer of sealant to the back of the substrate so that it holds firmly to the base. Next, we install the instrument arrows in their places and close the structure with protective glass.