Engine internal combustion works as a single complex mechanism. Effective interaction of gas distribution and crank mechanisms and from the engine lubrication system are largely provided by the valve stem seals. The driver must not only be familiar with the functions of the parts, but also correctly diagnose wear and the need to replace oil seals.

What are the valve stem seals for?

The movement of the piston in the cylinder is facilitated by splashing oil under the skirt. But a thin film of grease is removed oil scraper rings that are worn on the piston. On the other hand, the contact surfaces are lubricated in the gas distribution mechanism.

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A kind of oil suspension is created under the block head cover. On the border of the cylinder and the cavity above it, the valve stem seals are located. Their task is to prevent oil mist and oil from the valve stem into the combustion chamber of the cylinder.

Given the constant contact with the valves of the gas distribution mechanism, it is easy to guess that the caps are under constant stress. Each valve moves hundreds of times per minute, while the oil is heated to high temperatures.

How many and where are they on the engine

Based on the purpose and work performed, it is easy to determine where the valve stem seals are located. If we consider the engine assembly, then the cap is put on the valve stem. Structurally, the part is a plastic part in the form of a sleeve made of a special stable material and a metal base.

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Location valve stem seals in the engine, during its disassembly, it is defined as the cylinder head, at the point where the valves enter the working chamber.

If the engine has 8 valves and 16 valves

Puzzle over how many valve stem seals there are in 16 valve engine, you don't have to. The number of these critical parts is exactly equal to the number of valves. Those. if in an engine with 4 cylinders it is indicated that there are 2 valves per cylinder, then there will be 8 caps. modern motors, where there are 4 valves per cylinder, the number of oil seals will be equal to 16. Provided that the engine is 4-cylinder.

Causes of wear

Along with constant mechanical stress, the cap experiences the aggressive action of heated oil and impurities in it. Do not forget about the hot exhaust fumes at the onset of the exhaust stroke.

Over time, natural rubber coarsens, the walls of the bushing crack and wear out. Despite the fact that the regulations Maintenance did not determine the exact interval for replacing the caps, when the corresponding symptoms appear, it is not worth delaying the replacement with new parts.

How to determine the need for replacement

Among the main criteria that directly indicate the need to replace the valve stem seals are:

Oiled spark plug electrodes. Oil has the ability to seep into the combustion chamber.

Increased oil consumption. Compared to the traditional "appetite" of 1 liter / 10,000 km, the same consumption increases to a liter for every thousand.

The appearance of gray smoke in the exhaust. Some of the oil has time to burn during the compression stroke.

Sometimes a dilemma arises as to what is the cause of the gray smoke from exhaust pipe... By mistake, this reason is often called the wear of parts of the cylinder-piston group. To finally decide whether an engine overhaul or replacement of the valve stem seals is needed, it is enough to check the compression. The normal value of this indicator allows you to confidently indicate the caps.

By the way, a short-term problem increased consumption oils will remove the use of special products. A special additive softening the valve stem seals will restore the functionality of the parts for a couple of thousand kilometers. The additive works after 500-700 km of run after adding. Do not delay the repair, most likely similar symptoms of engine wear will reappear soon.

How to find everything you need for work

When contacting service center changing the valve stem seals is not difficult. However, this approach will mean for the car owner the option of performing work with the removal of the block head, which implies the replacement of the gasket and mounting bolts. And the time is spent here. This option means a significant overpayment.

Most simple option is to do the work yourself. To do this, it is worth preparing a tool for replacing the valve stem seals and buying a set of consumable items for one engine.

What caps are suitable: sizes and price

When determining which valve stem seals are best for a particular motor, you should pay attention to the original kit. You will receive a quality product, and the price does not seem significant.

For example, a set of original spare parts for popular models costs from 1.3 thousand rubles. (Toyota Camry 2.4 L) up to 2.2 thousand rubles. (BMW X3 2.5 l). When comparing with available analogues, changing the valve stem seals is cheaper by 800 to 1200 rubles, respectively.

When choosing analogs, do not be too lazy to check the compliance of the details with VIN number, or ask the store manager for advice.

We select a puller

To successfully replace the valve stem seals without removing the head, you will need to buy a special tool. As a last resort, it will turn out to borrow such a set from a neighbor in the garage.

To get the job done, you need a tool, better known as a desiccant. When choosing, you should pay attention to the equipment with an indication of its suitability for use with a specific engine. The use of universal devices is also allowed. However, some "station wagons" are still designed for a certain type of engine - with the HV or SOHS layout.

The tool is designed to clamp valve springs using mechanical pressure. After removing the crackers, access to the valve stem seals is opened.

DIY removal and installation procedure

At the initial stage of the work, the car is de-energized, the ignition coil is turned off and the candles are unscrewed. The piston of the first cylinder is set at top dead center. Further, in order to change the valve stem seals, perform the following operations:

The valve cover and all hoses are removed. The rocker arm bolts are unscrewed.

We remove the rocker arms. At the same time, make sure that the crackers do not fly apart when removing from the axle. Do not remove the rocker arms from the axle or turn them over so that oil does not leak from the hydraulic compensator.

Install the puller and compress the spring. As a result, two crackers are released that need to be removed (it is convenient to use tweezers).

We remove the valve plate, we get access to the spring and the valve washer.

We press out the installed part. It is possible to use either an impact collet or pliers to tighten the cap axially.

Before installing a new cap, check the backlash of the valve itself in the guide. If the indicator does not exceed 0.15-0.20 mm, install the valve back.

A new cap is placed on the lubricated valve shaft using a mandrel. The spring and valve plate, crackers are returned in reverse order.

Use a torque wrench when tightening the rocker arm bolts. The tightening torque is often set at 50 Nm.

If it is necessary to change the valve stem seals in cylinders 2 and 3, the pistons must also be moved to the extreme position.

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The combustion chamber of the car must be protected from the ingress of foreign substances and elements. The valve stem seals are responsible for this, the task of which is to prevent excess oil, shavings and other "debris" from entering the combustion chamber during the movement of the valve rods of the car. If the valve stem seals have ceased to cope with their tasks, they must be urgently replaced in order to avoid carbon deposits on the engine elements, as well as increased oil consumption. In this article, we will look at what signs indicate wear on the valve stem seals, why they wear out, and how to replace them without removing the cylinder head.

Why do you need valve stem seals

The operation of the engine assumes the non-stop operation of the elements of the gas distribution mechanism of the car. To reduce their wear due to friction, oil is supplied to the timing belt, which should not be in the combustion valve, otherwise the stable operation of the motor will be disrupted. During valve operation, the valve stem seals take on the task of removing excess oil and act as an obstacle, preventing oil from entering the combustion chamber.

The valve stem seals are arranged quite simply, and there are 3 main components of which they consist:

• Base. A sleeve made of steel, which is the frame of the cap and gives it strength;
• Spring. It is necessary to create the most tight fit of the cap edges to the stem;
• Cap. The main element of the part, made of rubber or second-grade resin (older models). Its purpose is to remove excess lubricant from the valve stem.

It is worth noting that valve stem seals have changed a lot in terms of the materials used over the past decade. Since their failure can lead to big problems, manufacturers strive to use the most durable and wear-resistant materials that are resistant to aggressive environments.

Service life of valve stem seals

It is easy to guess that valve stem seals need to be changed from time to time. The valve performs more than 1000 strokes per minute, and on each valve stem seals must remove excess oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber. It should also be borne in mind that the temperature in the operating area of ​​the valve stem seals is high, and the medium itself is aggressive: oil and exhaust gases.

Due to the influence of a mass of factors, the valve stem seals begin to deteriorate over time - the rubber of the cap cracks, peels off, loses its elasticity. Over time, the spring begins to press the cap less tightly against the walls, which is why oil begins to enter the combustion chamber.

On average, the service life of good quality valve stem seals is 100,000 kilometers. If the car has been idle for several years, it is recommended to replace the valve stem seals before starting to operate it, since during the idle time they have time to dry out.

Signs of wear on valve stem seals

If the valve stem seals are worn out early and replaced in time, serious engine problems can be avoided. The primary signs of valve failure are as follows:

• Dense blue or white smoke comes out of the vehicle exhaust;
• Oil consumption increases significantly;
• Carbon deposits form on the spark plugs.

When the above-described signs of wear on the valve stem seals appear, an urgent need to inspect them, as well as check the gas distribution mechanism and valves. If there are traces of strong wear on the valve stem seals, they must be replaced, otherwise:

• Engine power will begin to decrease;
• The car will stall for Idling, or the revolutions will start to "float";
• Compression in the engine will decrease;
• Carbon deposits will form on the pistons and cylinders, and the valves will no longer provide tightness due to poor closure.

Carbon deposits on engine elements are a direct road to an early overhaul. Timely replacement of valve stem seals with new ones will help to avoid this.

How to replace valve stem seals without removing the cylinder head

If the problem with the wear of the valve stem seals was detected in a timely manner by the driver, he can replace them without removing the cylinder head. In a situation where the solution to the problem was delayed, it will be necessary to dismantle the parts in order to remove carbon deposits from the pistons and valves.

Depending on the car model and engine, the process for replacing the valve stem seals will differ. But there are several main stages that are common to all machines:

If there is a possibility that the valve stem seals were faulty for a long time, it will be necessary to remove the cylinder head and carry out a full replacement, with cleaning the engine elements from carbon deposits.

September 24, 2017

In the design of any engine, and domestic car, and foreign cars, there are valve stem seals (valve seals). They are always used when the machine is running, and therefore wear out very quickly. Increasing their service life is a headache for engineers working at automobile factories, but the timely diagnosis of signs of wear on valve stem seals, as well as their replacement, is already the task of motorists. You can cope with it successfully only in one case when these very signs are known to you, and if not, then this article will help you.

HOW VALVE SEALS WORK AND WHEN THEY COUNT Worn out

As you know, the valve in the engine is located in two different cavities. One of them implies being in it engine oil, the other, on the contrary, must be isolated from him. In this case, the valve is in constant motion during its operation.

WHAT YOU NEED THE VALVE SEALS FOR

They are made of special elastic rubber, but this rubber tends to age, harden, dry out and collapse over time, as a result, the caps cease to cope with the task assigned to them and begin to need replacement. The car owner can determine this moment by special characteristics.

Worn valve stem seals

MAIN SIGNS OF VALVE SEAL WEAR

1. Increased oil consumption - if the engine oil is consumed in your car more than it should be, it means that somewhere it is used in vain, as an option, it gets into the combustion chamber due to worn out valve seals.
2. Spark plug oil deposits are caused by oil entering the cylinders.
3. when the car warms up, the engine heats up - the smoke disappears. This phenomenon is a clear sign of a cracked cap, which, heating to a certain temperature, becomes wider and begins to successfully cope with the functions assigned to it again.

However, be extremely careful, these signs may indicate not only worn valve stem seals, but also other problems with the engine! Therefore, at the time of diagnosis, do not forget to pay attention to:

• mileage - as a rule, oil seals need to be replaced every 70-80 thousand km. mileage;
• compression - if it is reduced, but you did not find any leaks or problems with valves and / or rings on the pistons, then the problem is definitely in the caps. They should be replaced.

EFFECTS OF RIDING WITH WEARED OIL SEALS

If you missed the moment of failure of the valve seals, then, most likely, it will lead to the following consequences:

• increased oil consumption, which, firstly, will not have the best effect on your budget, and secondly, it will provoke periodic oil starvation, leading to increased wear of parts and the need for premature overhaul engine;
• oily and ultimately spark plug failure;
• burnout of valves - carbon deposits will form wherever there is oil, including on the cylinder walls, which over time will interfere with the closing of the valves and lead to their burnout.

To prevent all this from happening, carry out a timely replacement as soon as you notice the first signs of wear on the valve stem seals.

OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT TIPS

We will not consider the procedure for replacing the valve stem seals now, this is a topic for a separate article, but we will finally name the main recommendations that will save you from mistakes. There are only 3 of them:

1. to dry the valves, always use a special tool - a desiccant, so you will have less chance of breaking or losing something;
2. when changing the caps, cover all openings on the engine with a rag or foam rubber, they will protect open cavities from dirt and you from losing crackers;
3. Be sure to lubricate the new cap with oil before installing.

And remember, if you do not have enough experience and knowledge in the matter of replacing valve seals, noticing signs of wear, do not experiment, but hand your car into the hands of professionals, they will quickly replace the failed parts with new ones and take a little in this case. Depending on the car and service station, the costs will be from 7 to 20 thousand rubles.

Valve seals are required to prevent oil from entering the combustion chamber and are located between the timing valves and guide bushings.

The gas distribution system uses intake and exhaust valves. The upper part of the valve is always exposed to the oily mist generated by the rotation of the camshaft, and the lower part is in the midst of suspended gasoline vapor (intake valves) or heated exhaust (exhaust valves).

Normal work camshaft provided by lubrication, but it must be prevented from entering the combustion chamber, otherwise the burnt oil forms carbon deposits on the working surface of the valve, cylinder and piston. As a result, the engine will be coked: its performance will deteriorate, and wear will accelerate many times over.

Oil scraper seals prevent carbon deposits: they remove the oil from the stem so that it does not end up in the middle of the combustible mixture. The design of the stuffing box is quite simple: it is a rubber cap, inside of which there is a reinforced steel sleeve and an expander spring, which ensures high-quality adhesion of the cap and the stem. The stuffing box material is of no small importance: modern manufacturers use acrylate rubber or secondary rubber - these materials provide good quality clamping.

When to change valve stem seals?

When the engine is running, the oil seals are subject to a very high load. In addition to the purely mechanical effect, the valve stem seals also have to withstand the aggressive effects of oil mixed with exhaust gases. Long-term operation of the oil seals leads to the fact that the rubber begins to harden, as a result of which abrasion of the working surface occurs.

Of course, it can always be said that valve stem seals are a consumable item and wear is normal. This is true, but there is one inconvenient circumstance - it is quite difficult to change the oil seals. To get to them, you will need to perform a lot of unnecessary steps.

However, the replacement of oil seals is not required so often: one set of valve stem seals, on average, "drives" about 100 thousand kilometers.

Valve seals: signs of wear

The fact that it is time to change the valve stem seals can be understood by the following signs:

1. Excessive oil consumption. In most cases, such a sign indicates wear on the oil seals. An increase in oil consumption is also noted with wear. piston rings, but in this case, oil leaks can be found in the breather pipe.

2. An exhaust that has a distinctly blue tinge. This symptom manifests itself due to the fact that oil immediately after starting the engine enters the cylinder and begins to burn, manifesting itself in the form of blue smoke coming from the exhaust pipe.

3. Uniform oil consumption regardless of operating conditions. If oil does not flow into the breather pipe, and the flow rate is high and unchanged, the oil seals are clearly not in order, and they must be changed.

4. Carbon deposits on spark plugs. Increased wear of the valve stem seals leads to the fact that the candles are flooded with oil, up to the engine triplet.

The detection of one or more signs usually indicates that the oil seals are worn out. If the symptoms described above have been observed for a long time, then in the near future it is necessary to attend to the replacement of oil seals, otherwise further driving can lead to disastrous consequences

Replacing the valve stem seals without removing the head

The decision to replace oil seals when signs of malfunction are detected is a very correct step.... Sometimes drivers try to solve the problem without "surgical" intervention, using various additives and additives, supposedly softening rubber and extending the life of the valve stem seals. Such a decision should not be taken: the additives either do not have any effect on the material of the oil seals, or they soften them too much, as a result of which the wear of the rubber only increases.

Replacing oil seals without removing the head is a complex process, so it is worth spending a lot of time on it, and performing all actions very carefully. How to change valve stem seals? The algorithm of work is rather cumbersome, but all these operations must be carried out sequentially and very scrupulously:

1. First of all, you need to wait until the engine has cooled down and all its elements will go into "standby mode". After that, you can start working.

2. The first step is to remove the timing case cover. You need to act carefully so that the gasket is not damaged (it is definitely not worth picking the cover with a screwdriver).

3. Next, you need to set both shafts (crankshaft and camshaft) according to the marks. Details should be marked so as not to be confused when assembling the engine, and even better, to write down all your actions. When removing the camshaft, loosen its drive. It is advisable to inspect the removed camshaft for the degree of wear - this will help save time and effort during the further operation of the car.

4. Next stage- dry out valves. To do this, you should use a special device. The expanding bracket must be fixed on the bed fastening stud, and its other end is installed with a ring directly on the valve spring plate. While pressing the lever, it is necessary at the same time to pull the crackers out of the plate with tweezers. After that, the valve lifters can be removed.

5. Considering the fact that 1 and 4 pistons are at the highest point, it is better to start replacing oil seals from them. This is due to the need for support for the valves to dry out - the pistons will provide it.

6. When finished with drying, it is necessary to remove the springs and the plate. Next, you need to take a collet puller and fix it on the cap. Moving the weight up the stripper rod, you need to hit the upper stop, thus reliably and without loss removing the cap. It is worth refraining from performing this operation with pliers - the fact is that the cap landing pad breaks very easily, and even a slight compressive force can cause irreparable damage to it, the elimination of which will cost much more than purchasing a tool with a collet clamp.

7. After removing the oil seals, it is worth checking the stem and its guide at the same time. The motivation for these actions is the same as when checking the camshaft - taking this opportunity, it is worth squeezing the maximum benefit from the repair.

8. Now that all the previous steps have been completed, you can install new valve stem seals. To do this, you need to remove the springs from them and insert the oil seals into the mandrel, after dropping oil on the stem.

10. The next stage is a sequence of actions, the opposite of the one that was used in the analysis: all the elements are installed and dried. Having performed these operations the required number of times, the replacement of the valve stem seals can be considered complete. It remains only to install all the elements in their places and adjust each system.

Video: replacing the valve stem seals

Outcome

Replacing the valve stem seals without removing the head can be performed independently without any problems. It is only important to carefully monitor your actions and follow the correct sequence, but a well-done work is worth it - the engine with updated oil seals will function normally without causing the slightest inconvenience to its owner.

Every driver passenger car with an internal combustion engine must be able to distinguish signs of wear on the valve stem seals, since otherwise the development and hardening of valve seals are fraught with a number of consequences. If you identify the problem in time, then you can buy a puller for drying out without any problems and replace the rubber-metal parts even without removing the head.

How valve seals work

The valve stem seals, as they are called in the common people, are installed directly on the valve stems, and are a combination of a rubber cage and a steel sleeve designed to increase the rigidity of the structure. When the valve opens, the cap shuts off the valve, preventing oil from flowing into the cylinder. Of course, a certain part of the lubricant still gets under the seal, but this is the norm - the unit is naturally lubricated. Over time, the elasticity of the part decreases, it shrinks, and an increase in the volume of leaking fluid is observed. As a result, the oil "goes away", forcing to top up to the norm more and more often.

Signs of wear on valve stem seals: how much oil does the engine take 1.8

The first and main symptom of hardened, worn out valve seals is engine oil overrun. True, for some engines, the regulations allow noticeable deviations from the generally accepted norm of 200-300 ml per 1000 km of run. So, the 1.8 turbocharged engines installed on the Volkswagen AG model (Volkswagen, Audi, Skoda, Seat) legally require topping up grease up to 500-700 ml for every thousand kilometers. A similar situation is developing around the PSA Peugeot Citroën engines, developed jointly with BMW (also installed on Mini models) - passport data speaks of a "norm" of 1000 ml of engine oil, which must be added to the engine every 1000 km.

Things like this highlight the importance of knowing "your" oil consumption. If power unit between service operations consumes significantly more than the recommended values, then this is a serious reason to think about replacing the valve stem seals.

The second sign of oil leaving the cylinders due to the loss of their condition by the caps is bluish-gray smoke from the exhaust pipe, which can be clearly seen in the first minutes of engine operation and further when shifting gears, while pressing the accelerator pedal. Oil deposits on the threads of the spark plug are also eloquent evidence of the above problem. When the pressure rises in the combustion chamber, the oil-saturated mixture is partially squeezed out through the microscopic gaps. For example, through the candle thread, where the gap is no more than 0.3 mm. Under the influence of high temperature, gasoline evaporates from the mixture, leaving behind a hefty "reserve" lubricant... Indirectly indicates the end of the caps and dark carbon deposits on the electrodes.

Exactly the same soot appears on the cylinder walls. And if you ignore the problem, then one day, due to plaque, the valve will simply burn.

Video tips for checking the presence of an oil scraper

How to understand that you need to replace the caps, and not the engine piston system

It is very easy to confuse the signs of dry valve seals and the development of a cylinder-piston group. In both cases, the problem is brewing after 200,000 km, often occurs on used cars that were bought without proper diagnostics. Moreover, oil consumption and blue smoke are characteristic of both diseases. However, the hardened valve stem seals do not affect the compression ratio, which usually drops with wear of the piston rings, the walls of the pistons themselves and the cylinders. If the car consumes too much oil (from 1 liter per 1000 km), but the compression in the cylinders is normal, then 90 out of 100 are the caps.

An additional check is carried out on a running engine with the oil filler cap unscrewed: a motor requiring CPG repair should have smoke from the neck, while used caps do not cause this.

The price of a puller "rusks" Toyota, Volkswagen, Audi and the principle of its operation

An integral attribute of replacing valve stem seals on any engine, be it a Lexus or a VAZ, is the so-called desiccant. It is branded or universal (suitable for motors different brands) a tool for clamping valve springs, without which it is not possible to carry out repairs. The principle of operation of the biscuit remover is quite simple: the desiccant is attached to the engine casing with support points, with the help of mechanical pressure on the plate, the valve return spring is clamped, which makes it possible to dismantle the crackers.

It should also be noted that universal pullers are often not so multi-tasking - some designs are suitable for motors with the ONV, ONC, HV layout, others are designed specifically for servicing Opel SOHC engines, etc. You should check this moment before buying a tool.

Dryer price:

• for overhead valve engines - from 3500 rubles;
• for OHV, OHC, CHV engines - from 2000 rubles;
• a comprehensive set of tools for drying out on engines Toyota Camry, Volkswagen Golf, Mitsubishi Lancer, etc. - 20,000 rubles.

Dryer, as in the photo, is an integral attribute of replacing valve stem seals on any engine

Change without removing the head: the cost of the repair kit Ford, Mazda, Nissan

In the official service, specialists usually insist on the option of replacing the caps, which involves removing the cylinder head. So it is much easier to dismantle / install oil seals, and everything spent on fiddling with Cylinder head time is paid by the client. Thus, a decent amount of money is accumulating. But if you do not get to the removal of the "head", then it will take less nerves, time, do not have to spend on laying Cylinder head and new bolts. When you access the decanter (it is not necessary to buy - you can, for example, temporarily borrow from a friend), the matter remains small. You must purchase a set of branded or non-original valve stem seals.

The cost of the original repair kit (valve seals):

• Toyota Camry 2.4 - 1300 rubles;
• Ford Focus 1.8 - 1500 rubles;
• Volkswagen Golf 1.6 - 1800 rubles;
• Nissan Qashqai 2.0 - 1500 rubles;
• BMW X3 2.5i - 2200 rubles;
• Mazda 6 1.8 - 1600 rubles.

Replacing MSCs with Mitsubishi Lancer IX 1.6

Consider step by step the process of replacing valve oil seals with Mitsubishi lancer 1.6 ninth generation without removing the cylinder head.

• The ignition coils are dismantled, after which the candles are unscrewed.
• After unscrewing the six bolts, the valve cover is removed
  The hoses are disconnected.
• To prevent the hydraulic lifters from falling out, they can be secured with wire or plastic clamps.
• It is necessary to unscrew the 13 bolts of the rocker arm axles. The axles can be removed assembled without turning over (to avoid oil leakage from the expansion joints).
• To prevent the crackers from falling into the pan, the engine openings are clogged with foam rubber and clean rags.
• With the help of marks on the pulley and the head, TDC is set in the first and fourth cylinders.

• The biscuit remover is attached in one part to the valve head body, with the other it rests on the plate, which allows you to release the biscuits and take them out with tweezers.
• After removing the plate with the spring, access to the cap appears.
• Dismantling the cap itself, ideally, should be done using a special removable device. But in the absence of such, you can get used to working with pliers. However, in the absence of delicacy, it is easy to damage the valve guide.
• Before swapping the old and new caps, it does not hurt to check the valve itself for backlash.
• The oil-lubricated new cap is pressed on using a suitable mandrel - a 10 mm nut head can be used.
• The spring and plate are returned to their place, with the help of tweezers and a puller, the crackers are put back.
• Replacing the MSC in the remaining two cylinders is done after turning the pulley according to the marks and setting the TDC.
• It is highly advisable to tighten the rocker arm axle bolts with a torque wrench in compliance with the values ​​recommended by the automaker (50 Nm).

Features of replacing caps on a 16-valve VAZ Priora

To gain access to the caps on the Priora, you will first have to unscrew the candles from the wells, dismantle the ignition coils, and also remove the throttle assembly. After that, it will be possible to unscrew the valve cover bolts in order to remove the rocker arms and actually replace the MSC using a puller. In general, the layout is the same as in the case of Lancer: TDC in the cylinders are set, crackers and springs are removed, new oil seals are installed, and reassembly is underway. As a rule, the whole complex of work takes from the contractor from 8 to 12 hours.

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New model designed to be an alternative to the graceful Mercedes-Benz GLA, will get a brutal appearance in the style of "Gelenevagen" - Mercedes-Benz G-class... The German edition Auto Bild managed to find out new details about this model. So, if you believe inside information, then the Mercedes-Benz GLB will have an angular design. On the other hand, complete ...

Cars for real men

What kind of car can make a man feel superior and proud. One of the most titled print editions, the financial and economic magazine Forbes, tried to answer this question. This print publication tried to determine the most male car according to the rating of their sales. According to the editorial board, ...

The cheapest car in the world - TOP-52018-2019

Crises and the financial situation are not very conducive to buying a new car, especially in 2017. Only everyone has to drive, and buy a car for secondary market not everyone is ready. There are individual reasons for this - who is not allowed to travel by origin ...

Rating 2018-2019: DVRs with a radar detector

Requirements for additional equipment in the passenger compartment are growing at a rapid pace. Up to the point that the cabin simply does not have enough space to accommodate all the necessary equipment. If earlier only video recorders and air flavors interfered with the review, today the list of devices ...

HOW to choose a used car, which used car to choose.

How to choose a used car There are quite a few people who want to buy a car, but not everyone has the opportunity to buy a brand new car in the salon, which is why you should pay attention to used cars. Their choice is not an easy matter, and sometimes, out of all the variety ... Which sedan to choose: Camry, Mazda6, Accord, Malibu or Optima

Powerful plot The name "Chevrolet" is the very history of formation American cars... The name "Malibu" beckons with its beaches, on which numerous films and television series were filmed. Nevertheless, from the first minutes the prose of life is felt in the Chevrolet Malibu car. Quite simple devices ...

Choice affordable sedan: Zaz Change, Lada granta and Renault logan

Even some 2-3 years ago, it was considered a priori that available car must be mechanical box gear. Five-speed mechanics were considered their lot. However, nowadays everything has changed dramatically. First, they installed the machine gun on Logan, a little later - on the Ukrainian Chance, and ...

Test of four sedans: Skoda Octavia, Opel astra, Peugeot 408 and Kia cerato

Before the test, we can safely say that it will be "Three against one": 3 sedans and 1 liftback; 3 supercharged motors and 1 aspirated. Three cars with a gun and only one with mechanics. Three cars are brands in Europe, and one is ...

The device and structure of the car rack

Whatever the road and modern car convenience and comfort of movement primarily depend on the operation of the suspension on it. This is especially acute on domestic roads. It is no secret that the most important part of the suspension for comfort is the shock absorber. ...

Reliability of machines by rating

What are reliability ratings used for? Let's be honest with each other, almost every motorist often thinks: the most reliable car- mine, and it does not give me a lot of trouble with various breakdowns. However, this is just the subjective opinion of each car owner. By purchasing a car, we are in ...

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