I hope my report will help you to do right choice when buying a used car and / or when servicing
for today mileage is 201600 km. car end of 2010, titanium, white hatch, capacity 1.6 115 hp Vsevolzhsk
I operate the car every day. I drove 1200 kg on a trailer once, in the cabin I drove 500 kg, I drive on different routes, the average speed on the highway is 130-140 km / h. I don’t force the car, but I don’t regret it either. she copes.
what did I do in total:
40 tkm - pads, supplied by TRW
50 t.km - stabilizer bar, changed both, put Febi
120 t.km - replacement of fluids - for yourself, as they say
140 tkm - the clutch release died, changed the clutch vsboro, clutch original, disc and basket Sachs
150 t.km - replacement of timing and drive units, all original
150 t.km - replacement of discs and pads in a circle, put everything TRW
180 t.km - I was driving a crumbling battery, the brushes in the generator burned out, I changed it myself. brushes - 80 rubles, picked up in the store by size, also bought a new battery.
190 t.km - stabilizer struts, bought cheap, already rattling. miser pays twice
what to do now:
salentbloki in the rear suspension, a large salentblok of the front left arm, the oporniki creaked the other day, sometimes creak, stabilizer struts, the stove sometimes whistles. I also broke the engine boot under the bumper in the forest, and the PTF failed, first one then the second, perhaps the case is in the light bulbs, until I looked.
also damp drive shaft oil seals. 3 years. until the hands reach. I know that the disease.
the rail sometimes taps on the slabs when cornering, sometimes not ... I don't pay attention ...
rubber:
winter first two seasons velcro Conti, then bridge spikes ayskruzer 7000 - excellent tires, for 3 seasons the spikes are almost all in place. on the second car nordman 4 - after 3 seasons there are almost no studs left, the runs are equivalent
summer - from the Michelin factory, noisy, but did not wear off, gave it to my brother on some kind of run. put Kumho KU31 - very quiet, soft, super grip on water, track - did not know what it was. now nordman sx - it erases faster than bears but slower than kumho, not directed, throws in ruts with water after 100 km / h, also comfortable, on cut asphalt it is much noisier than kumho.
glass:
with heating and sensors, hit a cobblestone, put the Chinese XYG - it was not long enough, the stones are all cracked, the heating does not work in places, I'm going to change soon
lkp:
the saber has everything ideally, no chips, the saber is in color. there is a large stone chip on the hood, slightly brown for 3 years. the corners of the rear fenders are slightly peeled off, almost imperceptibly, and this is after removing the bumper to install the towbar. before that everything was fine. in general, there are a lot of flaws on the car, all sorts of scoundrels rubbed themselves in. does not affect the speed.
consumption:
now 8.1 is average. every day round trip Podolsk-Moscow metro Belyaevo. on the highway if you go 90, then less than 6 liters. I don’t ride like that, so about 8.
in the cabin:
not a single button is worn, not worn, the pedals do not shine, the steering wheel looks quite decent for its run, the plastic does not rattle, does not creak, the gearbox cover is torn, a friend promised to sew it out of good leather. seats of course zachuhannye, especially mine, because I constantly drive something. in the spring for dry cleaning.
then: original iridium candles every 50 t.km, first formula f oil, now castrol-ford 5w-30, cabin filter 2 times a year, air with oil change. I cleaned the throttle twice, I want it again, but my hands do not reach.
interesting but fact:
shock absorber struts, hubs, ball, steering, etc. - still alive ... on a Hyundai of 100 t.km we completely sorted out the hodovka
the result:
the car is worth the money. fast comfortable reliable. never regretted what I bought.
Good afternoon. Ford focus 2 was produced from 2004 to 2011, with restyling in 2008. In addition to restyling, minor changes were made to the car throughout the production. In today's article I will talk about problem areas Ford Focus 2nd generation, and I will write approximate cost elimination of jambs. The article is a visual aid for potential buyers.
About the Ford Focus 2 platform.
It's no secret that modern cars issued on the so-called. platforms. Ford Focus 2 is based on the Ford C1 platform. Also on this platform are produced: Mazda 3 (BK), Mazda 5 (BK), Volvo C30 (P14), Volvo S40 (P11), Ford C-MAX (C214), Volvo V50 (P12).
Accordingly, choosing a Ford Focus for yourself, you can look at these cars.
Second Generation Focus Weaknesses:
Body.
- The body of the 2nd generation Ford Focus is galvanized, so cars older than 7 years rarely have perforating corrosion….
- On older cars, rust starts at the sills and along the bottom edge of the doors.
- The most problematic area is the back cover, especially on cars assembled in Spain and Mexico.
- Paint often peels off on the front bumper and on the front edge of the bonnet.
- The chrome finish of plastic is very often blistering.
- Headlights on pre-styled cars often sweat. coating the headlamp glass with a sealant ..
- The plastic rod leading from the lock cylinder to the hood latch often breaks. This is treated by replacing the complete lock (about 5000 rubles), but some "kulibins" put a metal rod from Mondeo.
- Over time, crickets appear in the cabin, especially on pre-styling cars
Engine.
- Most reliable engine on the focus of the 2nd generation - Duratec 1.6, but only on condition of regular replacement of the timing belt.
- The 2.0 TDCi diesel is also reliable, but rarely found on the market.
- On Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines. after running 100,000 km. the thermostat is out of order. The replacement cost is about 2,000 rubles.
- After restyling in 2008, the tensioner was removed on Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines and after a run of 30,000 km. the belt begins to slip, while it emits an unpleasant whistle. This can be treated by installing a tensioner from the pre-styling version, the issue price is about 5,000 rubles.
- The throttle assembly requires flushing every 50,000 km, and every 100,000 km the DPDZ fails due to a lack of design.
- Often on Duratec 1.8 and 2.0 engines, oil is observed in the spark plug wells, the reason is the drying out of the valve cover gasket. The cost of fixing the problem is 3000 rubles.
- If there is no thrust after 3000 rpm and the lamp is on Check Engine, probably the exhaust manifold flap control valve has failed or is failing. Replacing the valve will cost about 8,000 rubles.
- Until 2007, on 1.6 engines equipped with a phase shift system (Twin Independent Variable Camshaf Timing), clutches often fail camshafts... The cost of replacing them is almost 10,000 rubles.
- When operating on low-quality fuel, fuel pump failure is common. The pump itself is quite reliable and runs about 200,000 km, but its mesh is clogged with dirt and is not supplied separately as spare parts. Some services offer mesh cleaning, some offer replacement of the pump assembly. In any case, the operation requires the removal of the tank and costs about 5,000 rubles.
- Sometimes, after a run of 100,000 km, on a Duratec 2.0 engine with a manual transmission, vibrations and jerks appear during trading, the reason is the wear of the dual-mass flywheel. It is treated only by replacing it and costs about $ 800.
- After the run of 150,000, the neutralizers fail, usually they are treated by replacing them with flame arresters (and sometimes they just break through), and blendes are installed on the lambda probes.
It is better to reduce the oil change interval on engines during operation in the Russian Federation to 10,000 km. (the manufacturer recommends 20,000.
Transmission.
- There are no particular problems in the second focus transmission. The 4F27E automatic transmission is reliable and easily covers 300,000 km.
- The most unsuccessful gearbox - IB5, was installed with a Dutatec 1.8 engine, after 70-80 t. Km the pinion axle in the differential breaks with a crankcase breakdown, on the same box the bearing wedges to run 150,000 input shaft... When buying a car with this box, be ready in the foreseeable future to change it to MTX75 from cars with a 2.0 engine. A contract box will cost an average of 30,000 rubles.
- There is no need to be afraid of gear skipping, on cars with manual transmission, this is eliminated by tightening the cables and is cheap.
Chassis.
- Itself chassis very reliable and has no particular problems (wheel bearings run 150,000 km). Many parts are unified with the Mazda 3 and are commercially available.
- If you buy a car older than 2008. Watch the rear suspension closely, there have been cases of the rear hub breaking out along with the wheel on the move.
Steering.
- On the roads of Russia, the steering tips breaks to a mileage of 40,000-50,000 km. The cost of replacing all tips is about 5,000 rubles.
- Pay attention to the condition of the steering rack. When there is a knock or when the oil change interval is missed in the gure, it often fails. The assembled rail costs more than 30,000 rubles.
- Also, when buying, check the power steering. If it doesn't work, please refuse to buy! A common sore is the failure of the power steering board. On disassembly, the price of the board starts at 25,000 rubles (this is really a sore).
Electrician.
In general, the electrician is reliable, but not without a fly in the ointment:
- The contacts of the room illumination are oxidized in 2-3 years, they are treated by disassembly and cleaning.
- On sedans, the wiring harness of the trunk lock electric drive often breaks
- The cabin temperature sensor often fails (the price of the sensor is 6000 rubles).
- Often the resistor that limits the speed of the stove fails, it itself is not expensive, but it changes quite problematically (about 2,000 rubles with work).
If you decide to buy a 2nd generation Ford Focus the best choice there will be a car with a 1.6 petrol engine or diesel.
In conclusion, a short video review:
That's all for me today. If you have anything to supplement my story about the problem areas of the 2nd generation Ford Focus, leave comments and share your experience.
The salon is spacious. Kinks and kinks are a thing of the past, but I confess I don't miss them at all. The new interior, albeit stricter, is clearly more functional. And it looks more like a cockpit. Individuals will love it. The plastic is soft, the joints are smooth, the buttons are comfortable, you can't find fault with the gaps.
Nikolay Svistun, portal site, 2005
A bit of history
The second generation Ford Focus was born in 2004. Unlike the first "Focus", the second was no longer a global car in the full sense of the word: in the USA, the Ford Focus 2 is a completely different model with its own design. Ford will return to unification only in 2011, when the third "Focus" debuts. Ford Focus 2 turned out to be noticeably larger than its predecessor and more conservative in appearance. Russian sales of the model began in 2005, and the restyled version reached our showrooms in 2008. The exterior of the updated car has become much more interesting due to the expressive trapezoid of the radiator grille and new optics of a complex shape. Even more soft plastic appeared in the cabin and a fashionable red lighting began to play.
Market supply
There are very, very many second "Focuses" on the market: every day hundreds of advertisements about their sales are published on Russian Internet sites. Therefore, you should not rush into the purchase - look for a car that will suit you 100%. The most common body on our market is a sedan. There is a five-door hatchback with a slight lag. There are noticeably fewer station wagons, and three-door hatches are a rarity.
Russians, as you know, are fans of fast driving, and Ford Focus can show at least some dynamics only with a manual transmission. The most common versions are relatively inexpensive, but high-spirited configurations with 1.6 (115 hp) and 1.8 (125 hp) engines and manual transmission. Much less common are cars with an "automatic" and a 2.0-liter engine (145 hp) and a completely "boring" 1.6-liter engine, moreover, derated in this version from 115 to 100 hp. Well, and absolutely exotic - the most dynamic "Focuses" with a 2.0-liter engine (about the same 145 hp) and mechanics, the most modest 1.4-liter (85 hp) models with manual transmission and diesel versions with a 1.8 engine liters (115 hp), again with mechanics.
Not everyone will dare to change the seats in the car. Therefore, their quality is especially pleasing. Here I would gladly raise them to the rank of dogma. And I would have included it in all textbooks on orthopedics. Optimal distribution of loads with a minimum of adjustments: you get settled instantly and do not load your brain and hands by groping for numerous levers and buttons. Bravo!
Nikolay Svistun, portal site, 2005
Average prices
"Focus" of the second generation is getting cheaper quite smoothly. A noticeable difference (on average about 45,000 rubles) is only between 2007 and 2008 cars. Which, however, is not surprising: in 2008, the model underwent restyling, and more modern-looking models are expected to be valued higher in the market.
* The overwhelming majority of those sold on secondary market auto mileage is twisted. On average, a Russian driver drives about 20,000 kilometers a year. Therefore, a mileage of 60,000 km for a three-year-old is quite real, but 90,000 for a six-year-old is already suspicious. Therefore, do not take odometer data on cars over three years old too seriously. Pay attention to the technical condition.
Typical breakdowns and operational problems
Ford Focus 2 as a whole, the car is very reliable and unpretentious in maintenance. Problematic cars, of course, are found, but only if the owners operated them in a tough mode: they constantly twisted the engine, conquered off-road conditions and neglected regular maintenance. To relieve yourself of unnecessary headaches in the future, here are the first things you should pay attention to:
Body
Metal quality and paintwork- good, and the body is sturdy. The only weak point is the joints of the rear bumper with the fenders, where chips are often formed. Even on a four to five year old specimen, there should be no corrosion anywhere. If it is noticeable, then the element was clearly painted after the accident. It will be useful to remind once again that the entire body during purchase must be checked with a micrometer for the thickness of the paint in order to filter out broken specimens.
Engine
On motors 1.4 and 1.6, the gas distribution mechanism has a belt drive, and on 1.8 and 2.0 it is chain driven. The belt lasts a long time, it must be changed no more than once every 150,000 kilometers (in no case should it be tightened, because in the event of a break, you can get to replace bent valves), and its condition is a good indicator true mileage, which, we repeat, is very often twisted. The test procedure is very simple: at the end of the engine block, find a soft plastic cover to protect the belt from dirt. Fold it back and look: it's easy to distinguish the old from the new. The timing chain on engines 1.8 and 2.0 is installed for the entire service life, however, after 150 thousand runs, it begins to gradually stretch. Ask the seller to start the car on a cold one and turn it off. There should be no "rumbling" sound or crackling when discharging gas. If there is one, the car is heavily "rolled", no matter what numbers are displayed on the odometer. The Focus motors do not have a tendency to burn oil either. And in general, they do not cause any problems, if you do not often "twist" them and change consumables in a timely manner. By the way, original candles Ignitions here are platinum and have a very long service life - up to 120,000 kilometers. When inspecting a car, be sure to unscrew one candle and see: if it is not the original, then the mileage is clearly more than 120,000 km. But it is hardly worth buying a Focus with a small motor, especially if you want it to run a little. You will not notice the difference in fuel consumption, moreover: on weak engines you have to work more actively with the gas pedal, which is why gasoline consumption will only increase, all other things being equal.
Transmission
Focuses of the second generation were equipped with two types of 5-speed manual transmissions. For cars with engines 1.4 and 1.6, there was one modification, for 1.8 and 2.0 - another. The first, for low-power motors, is less reliable. When buying a car with such power units, it makes sense to check the box very carefully: listen to the rumble in motion with the radio and the stove turned off, make sure that all gears are turned on clearly - here synchronizers and the input shaft bearing often fail. As for cars with powerful "engines", their mechanical boxes are practically indestructible. You can break them, except that constantly operating the car in a forced mode. "Automatic" on the Ford Focus 2 is also very reliable: all versions were equipped with the time-tested American 4-speed gearboxes. They are filled with oil for the entire service life, and if the owner did not have the ambitions of the driver, then the automatic transmission will last a very long time.
Suspension
The chassis of the Ford Focus is very good. It is balanced for both swallowing bumps and very active taxiing. Weakness- rear suspension arms, which in an amicable way are recommended to be changed every 60,000 - 70,000 kilometers. Many owners make do with half measures and change only silent blocks, but on broken levers the resource of "rubber bands" is greatly reduced and new ones will have to be installed in 10-20 thousand. The rest of the chassis are very durable. Steering rack"walks" for a very long time: it is designed in such a way that it practically does not deform even with frequent overcoming of very bumpy roads.
Electrician
As such, there are no serious problems with the electrician at the "Focuses", unless the artisanal masters had time to "work" with it. Carefully inspect the engine compartment for "collective farm" twists from electrical tape - they should not be. The factory connectors here are of very high quality: almost all are silver-plated and in some places even gold-plated.
Scheduled maintenance
The Ford Focus MOT takes place every 20,000 kilometers, although it will not be superfluous to change the oil in the middle of the service run. The brake fluid is changed every 2 years. The clutch lasts at least 100,000 kilometers. Antifreeze does change once every 10 years or after 240,000 kilometers.
Maintenance cost from authorized dealers
The upkeep of a Ford Focus, when compared to its class competitors (especially Japanese ones), is not expensive at all. The frequency of maintenance is two times less than that of Toyota! Their cost, even if done at official dealers, is also very low. It is worth making a reservation here, however, that Ford dealers do not give direct prices for scheduled maintenance and provide information only on the cost of individual work, as well as the procedure for replacing consumables. Definitely, if you turn to them with a specific car, the price will be higher: a planned check of the units will also be added, as well as the consumables themselves.
| Mileage | Work | Cost of work (without spare parts) |
| 20 000 | 720 RUB | |
| 40 000 | RUB 2 630 | |
| 60 000 | Oil change and oil filter in the engine, air filter | 720 RUB |
| 80 000 | Changing the engine oil and oil filter, air filter, brake fluid, spark plugs | RUB 2 630 |
| 100 000 | Change of oil and oil filter in the engine, air filter, antifreeze | RUB 1,550 |
| 120 000 | Change of oil and oil filter in the engine, air filter, brake fluid, drive belt auxiliary units, air conditioner belt, timing belt, spark plugs | RUB 8 630 |
Prices for some spare parts
| Detail | Prices for the original, rub. | Analogs prices, rub. |
| Clutch assembly (without release bearing) | 9 900 - 123 000 | 3 300 - 5 200 |
| Front brake pads | 1 950 - 3 100 | 1 100 - 2 400 |
| Front Right Shock Absorber | 4 200 - 6 100 | 2 100 - 6 700 |
| Starter | 6 800 - 9 300 | 5 800 - 8 000 |
| Fuel filter | 293 - 600 | 138 - 630 |
| Air filter | 500 - 550 | 120 - 560 |
| Oil filter | 250 - 320 | 90 - 420 |
| Cooling pump | 3 700 - 4 700 | 1 120 - 1 500 |
| Front bumper | 5 100 - 9 800 | 1 400 - 3 700 |
| Timing belt | 4 100 - 4 500 | 1 200 - 4 000 |
| Rear arm bushing | 920 - 980 | 200 - 800 |
| Suspension arm, lower transverse | 2 100 - 3 500 | 400 - 1 400 |
| Spring-loaded suspension arm | 1 700 - 2 600 | 3 400 - 3 600 |
| Boomerang thrust | 4 700 - 6 300 | 1 300 - 4 100 |
06.09.2016
The Ford Focus 2 was one of the best-selling golf cars between 2005 and 2008. The second generation Focus was expected to be sold in the same quantities as the first generation, and today we can safely say that the developers did not lose and the car became very popular among motorists and fully met their expectations. Ford Focus 2 is available in three types. body - sedan, three and five-door hatchback and station wagon. Mainly in the secondary market there are Spanish, German and Russian assembled cars.
Ford Focus 2 began to be produced in 2005, and almost after the start of sales, the car became one of the leaders in sales due to the adequate price, high-quality assembly and large selection complete sets. In 2008, the manufacturer carried out a restyling, after which the car acquired a more charismatic and modern design. In the secondary market, the second generation of cars can be found in various trim levels, from the basic "Ambiente" to the top-end "Titanium". In total, buyers were offered five configurations to choose from.
Weaknesses Ford Focus 2 with mileage
For Ford Focus 2, there were four gasoline engine volume 1.4 (80 HP), 1.6 (100 HP), 1.8 (125 HP) and 2.0 (145 HP), as well as diesel versions 1.6 (90 and 109 HP). ), 1.8 (115 hp) and 2.0 (136 hp). Power unit 1.4 is quite rare and only on cars in basic configuration, most of the cars with such an engine today have practically exhausted their resource, since such cars were mainly bought in a taxi company. Motor 1.8 can present a lot of negative emotions, the main problem lies in throttle and the control unit, because of this, the motor may stall and will not start the first time, but on idle speed swim constantly. This problem is treated by installing firmware from a two liter engine. Also, when choosing a car with a 1.8 engine, you need to make sure that it is dry, since it often breaks through the gaskets of the valve cover and cylinder head in it.
During the operation of the car with gasoline engine you need to be prepared for high fuel costs. So, for example, a 1.6-liter engine paired with mechanics in the city consumes 10 - 11 liters per hundred, and in a two-liter engine with an active driving mother, the consumption can be up to 15 liters per hundred kilometers. Diesel motors demonstrate not whimsical work, excellent traction and moderate fuel consumption (6 - 8 liters per 100 km), but you need to remember that diesel engine sensitive to the quality of diesel fuel.
Transmission
All engines except 1.4 could be equipped with an automatic transmission or a manual transmission, with the 1.4 engine they installed only mechanical box gear. All motors paired with mechanical transmission provide a good dynamic ride. Unfortunately, such words cannot be said about the automatic transmission, since it works quite slowly. Both transmissions have a considerable resource of work and are considered one of the main advantages of the second generation Ford Focus, even cars with a mileage of more than 150,000 km do not cause any particular complaints in this regard.
A manual transmission can present an unpleasant surprise in the form of a difficult reverse gear shifting, which is accompanied by a crunch, this problem is explained by the lack of synchronizers, therefore, after constant mishandling reverse gear starts to fly out. It is this drawback that should be paid attention to when choosing a used Ford Focus 2.
Suspension reliability Ford Focus 2
If we talk about the suspension Ford Focus 2, then first you need to mention that its design is quite unusual, like for a golf class car of that time, here a MacPherson strut is installed in front, and a multi-link in the back. This arrangement gives the car excellent handling and a good ride.
Front suspension parts resource:
- Original struts and stabilizer bushings have a resource of 50 - 70 thousand km.
- Silent blocks are capable of serving 90 - 100 thousand km.
- The thrust bearings run up to 90,000 kilometers.
- Ball joints 100 - 120 thousand km.
- Hub bearings will last no more than 100,000 km.
- Shock absorbers 120 - 150 thousand km
The rear suspension, if you drive in a big city on a good road and occasionally drive onto a country road, will last up to 100 thousand km, and if on bad ones, then there will be no more than 70,000 km of service lines. And if rear suspension required repair, it is better to do overhaul if you do not want to visit the service station once a week.
Salon.
The interior of the Ford Focus 2 is aesthetic and laconic, and the driver of average height will be comfortable enough to sit, however, there are many reviews of tall owners (185 cm and above) that there will be not enough legroom, and there will also be little space for the passenger sitting behind the driver. On the forums, the owners, in their reviews, argue that many crickets eventually settle in the salon of cars assembled at a Russian plant, and cars brought from Spain or Germany do not have such a drawback. But as domestic operating experience has shown, cars that have assembled in the European Union really have better interior materials, but extraneous sounds appear in them over time, and the older the car, the more sounds.
Outcome:
Ford Focus 2 has a small number of shortcomings, and in terms of value and quality, the car remains the most attractive in its class. Most likely for this reason this car quite popular in the secondary market to this day. When choosing this used car, you need to be extremely careful, since cars of this brand serve in taxis and rentals, and there they are exploited mercilessly.
Advantages:
- Reliability of engines and transmission.
- Controllability.
- Viney and comfortable suspension.
- Roomy salon.
- Not expensive to maintain.
- There are a large number of non-original spare parts on the market.
Disadvantages:
- Weak paintwork.
- High fuel consumption of gasoline engines.
- Noisy salon.
- Small trunk.
If you are or were the owner of this car brand, please share your experience, indicating the strengths and weak sides auto. Perhaps it is your feedback that will help others correctly.
Hi. Today we have FF2 and I want to sort out a few questions for you. And I will argue a lot.
1. What's wrong with painted cars? Or just painted bodywork?
2. What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
3. How to tell if the car is well painted?
4. How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?
I must say right away that there won't be many photos today. Why? Partly covered here - Do I like reading more than watching? Where is the photo and text? But today I will partially write only a theory. Why again without a photo? Because if you watch the video, you will see so many things that even 1000 photos will not be enough for this ... and there are many moments that are not conveyed through photos ... but let's talk about everything in order.
They asked me to pick up a Ford Focus 2 on the machine for about 350,000 rubles. Alive, with a minimum of colors, good technique and! Attention! with a mileage of about 100,000 km or a little more, and better less. I alone cannot understand what is the salt? What mark is this 100,000 km? But I will try to explain everything to you.
I naturally did NOT take on the selection. And does this mean that I am arrogant? No, everything is simpler. I do not undertake to search for cars over 7 years old. Is this my whim or is it a need? Here I have to explain myself.
How much is the new FF on the machine? I will answer - 1,000,000 rubles (one million rubles) with a tail. Add there winter tires, CASCO, carpets, alarms, engine protection and more. Even with all the discounts, you will go for lemons.
What do you expect from such a car for 350,000 rubles, which is 8-10 years old?
And everyone is waiting - no colors or a couple and no more. Mileage up to 100,000 km or so. Good condition. Not a lot of owners, native TCP and so that there are two more places left to sell normally. Not rotten, not beaten, and so on.
How can I find one? I don't travel to a parallel universe ... be realistic? Mileage 90% of cars in any metropolis - 15 - 25,000 km per year. And here is the indignation of many ... But this is a fact. Another 5% of cars will have more more mileage! And about 5% remains with native / honest / low mileage. Where do these cars go? A little described in this post - Dispelling the myths that I myself wrote about. Sable. Sandero. Solaris. And if such a car gets to the announcement, then the price will be appropriate (not cheap).
Everyone wants a perfect car for 30% -35% of the cost of a new one. How realistic is this? Ask yourself. How much are you willing to sell your ideal car for?
And I immediately offer the client to add money. No, this is not my whim, this is common sense and nothing more. But there is no more money ... buy something else? No. It remains to hope for a miracle. And I can’t find this miracle, therefore, take on the selection and review all the cars in the city for free in order to understand that this is “firewood”, I have no desire, you know? And if you come across the option "half wood", and for lack of a better way to speak - BUY this best offer, my tongue will not turn out. It is much more correct to look at a couple of rubbish for money, and the person himself will understand everything. Is this honest on my part? Let's figure it out.
And VK links flew. One-second-third. I went in and looked. Outbid. Another and so it is clear that there is firewood. The third is similar. Refused to watch everything. Other links. Struck everything. Mileage 80,000 km in the ad, the old ads of this car from 170,000 km. The other has 100,000 km, in those inspection 190,000 km and it was done yesterday. And so on all cars… there were beats, of course, and just with restrictions on reg actions. For my part, I have already saved the person a lot of dough. But I understand that even if there is an option that is good at first glance, it is not a fact that it will be so when you come to watch.
And then I announced. 3 owners, in fact 2, one of the owners outbid, but he registered the car. The bases are clean. 2009, automatic, 1.6L. No road accidents on the base. No arrests or anything else. The mileage in the inspection is the same (it was less than a thousand by some, but they drive a car). But the girl sells the car, which is kind of a problem. But for every rule, there is an exception, right?
And I tell the client to call yourself. Talk, communicate. Find out what's painted and other little things. Get to know everything, and decide whether to watch or not.
Why didn't I call?
There is such a moment. Firstly, I already helped a lot in punching other cars (in fact, I don't need it). Secondly, I've already learned from my mistakes. There was an incident that everything seemed to be normal, and on the phone everything was on fire, but I arrived and I was full of firewood. And the client expressed his opinion that I flew money to earn money, and that I was to blame for everything, I deliberately chose this one so that I could see 5 more cars later. In fact, the seller simply deceived me. Now I'm smarter, I don't take on such responsibility. And I always warn you, and they can lie to me, I am not God, I only use the correct algorithm. And in essence, if I choose a car myself and call, this is called a selection of a car, and I also end up in the trash. Understand that everything why I have changed so much (for the worse) depends directly on my clients. And in order not to be extreme, it is easier to give up something than to be shit afterwards. Do you understand? although it hardly matters to you ...
The client called.
The girl spoke confidently, the car was checked during the purchase, the doors were painted, and even then without the filler. The rest is whole. Of the jambs, only vital chips. Always served. They always did everything on time. The car is in excellent condition, as it is written in the ad. Bought it from the outbid (remember this). And they give me the go-ahead for inspection.
It should also be said that there were no photographs of the state. That is, just a photo in which nothing is visible. Let's take a look already? And then he annoyed everyone with his shit ...
Here you have seen my photos. Who noticed what? There is no plug in the bumper, which is under the hook? So I'll tell you that in their photos in the ad, and this was not visible! The angle of the photo was such that the right side of the bumper was invisible at all. What else did you see?
I started to inspect the car from the back.
* The rear right fender is dented.
* The chrome pad is cracked and screwed on with four self-tapping screws, you can see it in the video.
* Really vital jamb only on the edge of the rear right wing near the trunk lid, chips.
* The upper trim on the boot lid is just black, not painted.
At first I thought she was cured. But when I came closer than 15 meters, I understood everything ... Let's list what was painted, what jambs and, most importantly, how it was done:
* The trunk lid is hand-painted ... with snot ... with craters ... pathetic ...
* The rear left wing is painted in the same way. Moreover, if you open the trunk lid, you can see that the seams have parted ... that is, everything is crooked. and I didn’t even pay attention to whether it was welded at the factory or not ... the machine was checked with a thickness gauge according to her words ... but here it is not needed, such firewood is already visible ... but once I poked the rear wing 400 microns, it didn’t become any more ... The wing is rotting already by arch. And a shpak burst on it (you can see it in the video)
* In the opening of the trunk lid, the paint falls off ... of course it is repainted.
* Opening back door repainted (also rots). The new paint has fallen off, you can see the factory paint under it. (everything is clear on the video)
* The middle pillar is repainted. Everywhere there is risk ... snot ...
* The left threshold is repainted and rotting already ... everywhere there is a terrible shagreen.
* The driver's door is repainted ... with a bunch of painting jambs ... Risks, snot, crater.
* Rear bumper cracked in several places, the putty falls off from it.
* The front bumper is painted with a spray can, they did not hide it when inspecting it. Only the right side of the bumper was painted from a balloon, and it was the right side of the bumper that was not visible in the photo (it is necessary to decipher what is painting from a can?) I'm not kidding. They just blew from the balloon.
* The right threshold is jammed. Is he painted? I didn't even bother to look.
* Repainted the entire muzzle, that is, both fenders and the hood. Everywhere there is risk, putty, crater, snot and everything is crooked.
* There are dents on the rear right door.
We have a whole (without jambs) - the front right door. That's all ... and then maybe I haven't noticed yet. And maybe not all the jambs described.
How do you think bad paint is considered a jamb of a car? Or is it good? It looks not too bad from 25 meters. The answer is in the comment.
I may have missed a lot of things, but you understand the picture. This is not all. Naturally, everything that can be filmed was filmed. Even on the inside, the trunk lid was not normally painted (you can see it in the video).
The FF2 front fender bolts are covered with hard plastic. On the left side, it does not stand still ... and the wing is rotting ... in general, everything that is painted here, everything is rotten. Or the paint spits out, or it swelled up ...
This plastic cannot be put in place. Why? Because the mudguard is jammed behind the wing. There is a crease ... and until you do the bodywork, it will be all crooked.
But they even climbed into the wiring on this car ... in the photo it may not be very clear, but the wiring was rewound with Russian insulating tape, and no one knows what was there (not even the seller). And part of the air filter housing is soldered (you can see it in the video). By the way, the TV, although not made of iron, but it is clear that it is painted. Whoever fumbles will understand it from the video.
Well, do you think you can convey all this with photographs? And I have run out of them for today. And you haven’t seen the salon yet… I often write that it only remains to give a shit… so this time, someone did it for me… horror… I didn’t get into the car… I didn’t ride the car. I didn't see the point in this.
We will do without the result of the inspection, but we will disassemble this car according to the questions from the beginning of the post. Here one follows from the other. What's wrong with painted cars? Or just painted bodywork?
Everything that's painted here is ROTTING. From and to, absolutely everything. And this is almost the whole car. Why is this painting good? Each of you will say that he has a well-painted car, I don’t believe that ... you have 5% of the total mass, and all these 5% are NOT focused on D2, although I know what the comments will be ... in Russia, cars are painted for sale and for sale to 90% of people. And this means as cheaply as possible, for a presentation. And what will happen to her later - nobody cares. And it's one thing if one wing is painted, you can repaint it, another thing when the whole car is with such a level of repair.
Many will say that everything is not critical here, she is 8 years old, what did you want? I call such people nothing more than shit-eaters. Not everyone wants to eat shit, but there are some. Others do urine therapy instead of taking a pill. Everyone has their own opinion, but such cars are junk (my opinion) ... its real price, it's even difficult to say what ... how much auto-analysis will give, so much it costs. Here's a typical example of a painted car! Good or bad, let everyone decide for himself, but to understand the level of colors, watch the video.
And many painted cars are simply broken. Not tinted, but broken, overcooked.
What do C-class cars look like when they are about 10 years old?
I must say right away that these cars are the most massive, not counting Rio and Solaris. And if everything is clear with the B class, then those who have accumulated a deposit for the C class (in some way) often do not have the money to maintain even such cars. Hence the half-dead state. Even finding a C-class car in which the oil in the machine has been changed at least once is very difficult, and sometimes impossible. Everyone always leaves everything for the next owner. And the next, again, leaves everything to the next, and this happens until the car gets stuck. In Russia, everything is at random! Maybe it won't break! Maybe I will have time to sell!
On the other hand, people have high expectations for such cars. You often want a lot for 30% of the cost of a new one. Too much. From that and buy either "firewood" or outbid with smeared lips. This car was previously bought out. Do you understand how he sold her? I bought a beat, doused all the shoals for a pittance (that everything was rusted or fell off), count my lips smeared, and rewound the first sucker along the lower bar of the market, saying that 2 doors were repainted, the rest is whole. And to confirm his words, he poked them with a thickness gauge, in which they (the buyers) did not understand anything. Do you really need to talk about the openings? About the extended B-pillar?
How do you know if a car is well painted?
Almost impossible, actually. I have written about this more than once. Usually I say to everyone like this - a freshly painted car, it almost always gets hit. And if it was painted for a long time, then the jambs are either already crawled out, or everything is fine. Maybe someone remembers the post - 403. Mercedes W202. Please rate. This car was not painted yesterday, and what should come out has already come out. Therefore, I am afraid of painted cars ... especially when they have a scattering of stocks for painting, like this FF2. Each of you, of course, decides for himself. Sometimes you look, done well, 2 layers of paint, no plaster, all the fire, even the color hit. Well, is that a minus to the car? And six months later, the paint swells, and they go to repaint again ... so whether the car is painted well or badly does not mean that there will be no problems in the future. Understand this!
How important is the mileage of up to 100,000 km for a used car?
This is complete nonsense, and a relic of the scoop ... 100,000 km is the beginning of the life of many modern cars. Again, evaluate the condition of the car. Do you enter search criteria (on car sales sites) for 8-10 year old cars, and score the maximum mileage of 100-120,000 km? So, with a probability of 99%, you will only run into outbids, unscrupulous sellers and beating, overcooked cars, coiled runs, etc. ... and somewhere in the ads, there is an honest, serviced car, at an average price, with a couple of colors a good owner, with a mileage of 180,000 km. But when I find one like this, they twist at my temple, 180,000 km? Are you out of your mind? She already had 4 capitals ... but what resource is there left? And they go, take trash with a mileage of 90,000 km on the dashboard, and shout, LOOK, I found it! And not that you are 180,000 km! I scoffed a couple of times, knocked their cars through ... there were well over 200 for everyone ... Now I don't upset people, I bought it, go, rejoice if it works out (drive).
It is much better to buy a car from a loving owner, but if he painted it, he did it for himself, and not for sale! Yes, he will tell you more about the car than me and tell you what needs to be changed soon. But such people in Russia are not held in high esteem ... and they sell a car for six months, and give it to outbid. And those, in turn, well, then you yourself know ... mileage on the dashboard is 90,000 km, not a bit, not painted and sold.
What is better than 100,000 km and riders? Or 150-200,000 km and motorists who understand and take care of cars? But 100,000 km is a psychological mark ... even in my VK group I have seen more than once that 100,000 km is junk for many ... and try to explain that the car just started to drive? And if it concerns VAG, then there are 30,000 km for many junk.
What does a mileage of 100,000 km give?
In general - NOTHING. This does not in any way indicate the condition of the car. NO WAY! That this car is better than another or what? Better groomed with 150,000 km? And even if the mileage is native and up to 100,000 km, this suggests that the car is ideal? Maybe this is the total after the insurance, which is why the mileage is small? Maybe it burned, and stood for 2 years, and looked for money and spare parts? The car has to drive and they drive. 8 years old this car. 8 times 15 - 25,000 km? The normal mileage of these cars is from 120,000 km to 200,000 km. So look for a normal car! Not a mileage of up to 100,000 km.
Honest 100,000 km. And honest 140,000 km. What's better with one condition?
Of course, there will not be one state. But look. Timing for FF2 - belt. For 100,000 km I have to change it once and it’s time to change it again. For 140,000 km twice and buy with about a new timing.
Rubber. At 100,000 km, she is often dead, old, dear. At 140,000 km live, new, about new.
Rear suspension FF2. She dies to 100,000 km. And buy with a half-dead chassis? By 140,000 km, it will be replaced in 80% of cars.
Racks and chassis in general. 100,000 km, everything is native, everything is on the way (half-dead). Almost everyone has replaced 140,000 km.
And I can go on forever, but 140-160,000 km is often even more problem-free than 100,000 km. Have you thought about it? Take my Almeria. I bought it with dead summer tires (7000 rubles), but buy a little more with mileage, it would be new, right? And so on for all cars. Your cherished 100,000 km will give you nothing.
In the end, more about the buyer.
Imagine the customer's surprise when I told him the state of the car? He said - Yes, I talked to her. I asked everything. She told me! How can you lie? Yes, she ... and off it went. YES, this is a used car. And there is no guarantee that the seller is lying, he may not know (not this case, of course). But then there are zero claims to me, but only thanks. And it may not be right to punish people with a ruble, but it is effective. Very effective! When people see the real condition of these cars, maybe they will really dig a little, or they will look at other cars. I will not go to see? Someone else will go. And either the authority will work, or it will take a rollback and give such a "car" to the client. There is a very thin line here, which is difficult to assess. I even wrote everything honestly, although I understand the indignation in the comments. Well, haipanu means little.
Will I take such cars for selection?
I am generally ready for this (I was ready before). I just tell everyone, the mileage is 150-200,000 km, 60% of the car will be repainted. This is the norm for such cars. But I am willing to find groomed, honest, and tinted, not beating. Who do you think agreed? Not guessing ... ZERO. Then it's easier not to take it than to be a trash picker ... there are a lot of them ... I don't want to be one of them ...
That's all for today. I believe that such a "theory" is much more important than just the inspection of the car, which I usually post. Although not a super post for many, it is much more useful than pouring mud on an inspected car. I hope everyone appreciates my efforts. I tried to explain a lot. Peace for everyone.
PS: there will be more post about mileage and condition. The car has already been inspected. Coiled run, before the inspection explained it, but still, the person psychologically thought that the state would be like a car with 100 tkm. And there the state is exactly 200,000 km, as there is in the car. Guess if you bought it or not?
