What model of UAZ are military bridges installed on? UAZ military bridges. Advantages of military bridges over civilian

Surely on sale you have met UAZ cars, where car owners proudly talked about military bridges, making a mark-up of several thousand rubles. This topic has been discussed more than once. Some say that such cars are worthy of attention, while others, on the contrary, prefer to ride on civilian bridges. What are they and what are their differences? Let's try to figure it out.

Varieties

On UAZ vehicles, two types of mechanisms are used - with a single-stage main, as well as with final drive her. The first (UAZ) military is installed on cars of a wagon layout, the second - on the cargo-passenger model 3151 (in other words, "Bobik"). The driving mechanisms have a U-shaped design and are installed together with cardan shafts. However, the installation of such elements on cars of the carriage layout (of the "tadpole" type) requires significant technical improvements. This applies to the design of the suspension, bipod thrust, axles. Also, for full-fledged work, you need a centimeter shortened cardan shaft.

As for the final drive elements, they have differences in the middle part, namely, the smaller differential of the military bridge. UAZ with such a mechanism also differs in a different way of installing the main gear gear. There are few differences. It is only mounted on tapered roller bearings. UAZ, the military bridge of which is considered to be more durable, has a more complex design compared to its civilian counterpart. There is an adjusting ring between the pinion gear and the large bearing ring, as well as a spacer sleeve and spacers. The pinion bearings are clamped with a flange nut.

Device

Where are the final drives located? On UAZ-469 vehicles, the military bridges of which are located at the rear, the transmission itself is located in the crankcases, where the necks are pressed onto the outer parts of the axle shaft casings. The pinion gears are mounted on the splined end of the axle shaft, between the roller and ball bearings. The latter is fastened with a retaining ring in the crankcase. There is a special oil deflector between the ball bearing and the final drive housing. The roller mechanism is fixed in the housing with two bolts. The inner ring of the bearing is attached to the axle shaft with a circlip. The driven gear is attached to the final drive flange. The driven shaft rests on the sleeve and bearing. By the way, the latter has a left-hand thread. The driven shafts of the rear final drive are connected to the wheel hub using splined flanges.

The transmission housing is cast together with the stub axle housing. The drive gear is mounted on the spline of the driven cam between roller and ball bearings (perceive axial loads hinge).

Peculiarities

On such cars as UAZ "Bukhanka", "Farmer", as well as long modifications of model 3151, civil bridges(among the common people "collective farm"). However, some "bobiks" are equipped with military counterparts. These are new models with the index 316, 3159 and the Bars modification, which is distinguished by an increased track. But as a result of this decision, military bridges (UAZ) are not simple here - they are elongated, geared, with a modified "stocking".

What is the difference between the military?

First of all, such a bridge differs from a civil one in the presence of final drives. Thanks to this, the vehicle's ground clearance is increased by 8 centimeters (that is, the gearbox is located higher than the standard one). The main pair has fewer teeth, but at the same time they bigger size... This design significantly improves reliability. The gear ratio is also different. At military bridges, it is 5.38. What does it mean?

The machine becomes more high-torque for ascents, is able to easily carry heavy loads on itself (or on a trailer). However, this mechanism is not designed for speed. The so-called "collective farm" bridges are faster than their military counterparts. And, of course, the differences concern the propeller shaft. If these are military bridges (UAZ), the length of this element is 1 centimeter shorter. Therefore, when replacing or repairing a shaft, it is necessary to specify the bridge for which it is designed. The recommended wheel size is 215 x 90 with a diameter of 15 inches.

Advantages

So, the first plus is ground clearance... He, unlike civilian models, is 30 centimeters. "Kolkhoz" UAZs have a clearance of 22 centimeters. The second plus is the increased torque. This is a huge plus if you are going to transport large loads or drag a trailer with you. Due to the large size of the teeth, they do not wear out as often as on civilians (applies to the main pair).

Also, military bridges (UAZ) are distinguished by a more even distribution of the load between the onboard and main transmission. Well, the last thing that the owner of such bridges can boast of is the presence of a limited slip differential. This is learned when driving off-road (in fact, the UAZ was intended for him). If the car is stuck in the mud with only one side, you will not have slipping, as on civilian bridges (the left wheel moves, but the right one does not).

Where are these bridges losing?

Now we will list the shortcomings of this mechanism, because of which disputes arise between the "uazovods". The first drawback is the increased weight. Civilian bridges are lighter, and therefore fuel consumption is lower.

Also, there are fewer complex parts in their design, so the "collective farmer" is more maintainable. And spare parts for the "warrior" are more difficult to find (the same gearbox of the military bridge). UAZ with a civil bridge is more comfortable to ride and high-speed. Also, due to the use of spur gears in military analogs, the operation of such a design is more noisy. Also, on civilians, you can install a spring suspension and disc brakes. It is impossible to put all this on military bridges (including UAZ-469). Oddly enough, but civilian mechanisms are more unpretentious in service. Take oil, for example - military bridges have a lot more lubrication points.

Reviews

Some motorists, in response to the statement “military bridges are better than civilian ones”, agree only 50 percent. As for the increased ground clearance, these centimeters do not offer much of an advantage. Those who need to, lift the suspension and install more "evil" wheels. As a result, the ground clearance can be increased by 1.5-2 times - it all depends on the desire and skills of the car owner. Drivers also complain about increased noise. Still, army bridges make themselves felt, even if the vehicle is used for civilian purposes. And sometimes, to get to your destination (hunting or fishing), you have to listen to this "melody" for several hours. This is especially noticeable on asphalt surfaces. For many, flow and dynamics are important - with military bridges, you can simply forget about these two factors. Reviews from car owners say that the car hardly picks up speed more than 60 kilometers per hour, while fuel consumption increases by 10-15 percent. In terms of maintenance, reviews point to an oil leak problem. It starts at the final drives. Therefore, advice for those who are going to take a UAZ: immediately change the oil. Nobody ever thought about this seemingly simple operation. People buy this car and do not even think about the fact that periodically it is necessary to change the oil in the engine and gearbox, not to mention the bridges. Of course, this and it is very difficult to "kill", but if you ride for 10 years on one oil in a gearbox, the machine is unlikely to thank you. As for cross-country ability, reviews note the special design of military bridges. They are made in the shape of a ski. Therefore, to get stuck on military bridges, you need to try hard. And they are more durable in terms of resource, due to the use of other teeth.

Also, reviews note the absence of locks. You can not put military bridges them "do not digest". But, along with this, it is possible to install wheels over 30 inches. If civil bridges are used, the axle shafts and the main pair have to be reinforced.

On the problem of consumption and not only through the eyes of car owners

With regards to noise: judging by the reviews, this is a very subjective opinion. Someone scolds military bridges for noisy, but for someone it does not matter - "as they made noise before, so now." Regarding fuel consumption - with a properly adjusted intake system, such an UAZ will consume a maximum of 1.5 liters more than its civilian counterpart. In addition, some car owners note the lack of spare parts, since military bridges have not been produced for several decades. If it is possible to find something, it will only be disassembled, and it is not a fact that what was found will be in good condition... On the other hand, the bridge is not a "consumable" like a filter, rubber and oil. And you don't have to buy gears and other spare parts every day.

Off-road element

If your priority is offorud, it is definitely better to put a military bridge.

But if you often drive on normal asphalt surface, civilians are definitely chosen for such purposes. It is not in vain that collective farm bridges are installed on all police "bobiks". In urban areas, comfort and dynamics are a priority.

Conclusion

Thus, it is determined by the further purpose of the machine - it will simply go hunting and fishing, or be prepared for a full-fledged off-road. But it is worth noting that even a civilian UAZ on "stock" tires is able to get through the ford. But you shouldn't use this opportunity on a daily basis: even on civilian bridges one can feel "military echoes" - a frame structure, a rigid spring suspension.

So, we found out how military bridges (UAZ) are arranged, what are their advantages and disadvantages compared to civil ones. As you can see, you need to initially know for what purposes it will be used.

The UAZ car is a full-fledged SUV with a 4x4 wheel arrangement, which is equipped transfer case with a mechanical connection of the front drive wheels and a downshift.

There is a statement that the transmission, or rather the axles of the wheel drive of a military-made car, compare favorably with civilians, whether this is actually the case you can try to find out.

Design features

The design of the military axle includes the use of additional final drives, which are installed for more optimal distribution of torque to both wheels, for difficult road conditions. The presence of gearboxes, firstly, increases the vehicle's ground clearance by 8 cm, which gives additional advantages when passing deep tracks, wetlands, forests and other difficult conditions.

Secondly, due to the changed ratio of gear ratios, the UAZ equipped with military bridges has a better engine thrust in low gears. When connected front wheel drive and shifting the lever to a low gear position, such a unit can safely drive on almost any off-road, and even drag a trailer weighing up to 2 tons, and this with an engine power of only 75 l / s, if you take a 469 UAZ up to 90 ...

UAZ vehicles produced specifically for the defense industry were developed more carefully, taking into account all the nuances related to the ratio of power and cross-country ability of the vehicle, its readiness for operation in a harsh climate, expanded temperature range, work in the complete absence of road conditions. UAZ of some modifications was developed, even for escorting tank columns. Therefore, special attention was paid to the transmission.

A vehicle that has military-grade axles installed can operate at very low or high temperature ranges with an almost complete absence of oil in the gearboxes. At the same time, only a uniform hum coming from the bridges will be heard in the UAZ, while the transmission of a civilian vehicle will already fail. But such operation is allowed only in extreme, forced cases, in all the rest the military bridge, like all mechanisms, needs timely lubrication and must work as expected - in an oil bath.

The wheels of a vehicle with military-made axles are located below the central axis of the axle, due to final drives, this increases the cross-country ability in case of poor road conditions. Cardan transmission the military bridge is one centimeter shorter.

Comfort

UAZ, any modification, with civil or military bridges, a car designed for people of a special category - military, hunters, fishermen, special service workers who do not feel the need for additional options for comfort, such as increased noise insulation or leather interior. But there is a statement that the UAZ on military bridges has a higher noise level - the bridges are "buzzing". This statement is erroneous, an axle of any type "makes noise" only in a faulty condition, or in case of improper operation - when there is insufficient oil level in the crankcase, the main pair or hubs are worn out, the gearbox is faulty, or dispensing mechanism... With proper maintenance and operation, even an expert will not distinguish a civilian from a military bridge by sound.

Visual differences

The military bridge has threaded connection gearbox on the left side in the direction of the vehicle, civil right in the center. The stocking of the military bridge is longer on the right side and shorter on the left. In civilian construction, the stockings are visually the same. The clearance of a military vehicle is slightly different in height from a civil vehicle.

Interchangeability

Military-grade bridges, like other transmission elements, can be installed on a civilian vehicle, and civilian bridges are suitable only after special revision.

The cost of military bridges for a UAZ vehicle is, on average, 20 percent more expensive than for civilian ones. To order them, you should contact a specialized store.

The familiar GAZ 69 has served for the benefit of the people for a long time. It's kind of an all-terrain vehicle that needed a change. The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant started preparing the release of a new car, which replaced this all-terrain vehicle.

The history of the creation of bridges on the UAZ

Front and rear uazovsky bridge

The task was serious and difficult, but nevertheless they began to solve it. The main customer for such a transport was the Ministry of Defense. The military wanted to have a car that could be lightweight, high cross-country ability, dynamic, able to move where it is possible to do only on a tank. But at the same time, it should be inexpensive, easy to use, technologically advanced, and have easy repairs. In the national economy, there was also a need for such vehicles, due to the fact that the roads left much to be desired.

The designers have created two bridges: civil and military. They are installed on UAZ vehicles.

Civil bridges are called "collective farm" bridges. They are fixed on such cars as "loaf", "tadpole", "goat", long and classic, "farmer".

Military bridge - reducer, two-stage, U-shaped bridge. Their installation is carried out on some samples of "goats" with an index of 0.3X. On the new "goats" (316 *) they put bridges of the "spicer" type, "leopards" (3159 *) and 316 * with a raised track - elongated warriors, gear with extended stockings.

Distinctive features of UAZ with military bridges

The military bridge has final drives. This makes it possible to increase the vehicle's ground clearance. They are distinguished by their reliability, since the main pair has larger teeth, but their quantitative composition is smaller than that of civilian bridges.

This is what military bridges look like.

The purpose of military bridges is that they are able to move effortlessly through mud and deep rut. Therefore, the additional ground clearance of the military bridge of 8 cm made it possible to move such vehicles off-road. The increased torque in off-road conditions has also become a huge plus and a help. The speed of movement on such a car, especially on the highway, is reduced, and a car with a military bridge will not be able to accelerate more than 90 km / h. UAZ is not intended for racing on roads, it exists for driving on bumpy roads.

There are myths, created by the motorists themselves, regarding noise, roll-over, speed mode, consumption of military bridges:

1. The UAZ car allows movement at a sufficiently high speed, if the spare parts of its bridge are of high-quality assembly and the main connections are well controlled.
2. Only a faulty front or rear axle car, regardless of whether it is military or not.
3. Military bridges have an excellent roll-up (raid). Regardless of its type, only a non-worker can have trouble getting out.
4. Warriors can be much more economical collective farm bridges... Consumption is entirely due to the high-quality operation of the engine, the serviceability of the bridge.

The diametral rod of the rudder is straight and short, it is located from one wheel to another. This detail of a warrior cannot be replaced by a draft from a collective farmer. You can buy a "warrior" without an auto-drive on the front axle.

The separately purchased rod must be attached before rolling in the bridge so that the hubs do not disperse later.

Our automotive industry produces two types of steering bipods: the first in Yekaterinburg, the second in Nizhny Novgorod. This replacement part installed in the left steering knuckle.

The bipod is made of solid metal, by milling, without welding elements. If a new bipod is installed, you do not need to think that the steering forces will change, they remain optimal. During installation, the bipod is cleaned, lubricated and tightened, in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions for adjusting UAZ vehicles.

Features of brake shields and subtleties

When the front axle requires repair, attention should be paid to the brake shields.

The front and rear shields of military and civilian bridges are different from each other. Military bridges can be installed on collective farm bridges, and the latter - only with revision.

Distinctive features of shields:

1. The farmer's nearest fastening hole is located exactly under brake cylinder, the brake assembly of the military bridge is not as accurate and is located between the holes. The brake disc will go a little to the side and down, when pumping, an air particle remains in the corner of the cylinder, difficulties will arise.
2. Landing hole. Their sizes on bridges are the same, but the fit is slightly different, in this case the collective farm bridge will rest against the sides of the trunnion.
3. Stamping. The military bridge has a positive overhang of 4 mm. The center plane is 4 mm below the outer edge. If the collective farm is installed in place of the warrior, the brake drum will jam on the brake shield. In a UAZ car with a military bridge, the landing center will be below the outer side by the same 4 mm.

The clearance of the improved UAZ has increased significantly

Many car enthusiasts dream of such an SUV. But in order to buy it, whether it is new or used, you need to pay attention to such subtleties as:

• year of production, color performance, rally, price;
• technical condition of the car body: corrosiveness, the use of anticorrosive;
• inspection of the roof of the car. which will help you find out if it is factory or do-it-yourself;
• bridge category: geared, "collective farmer" or "spicer";
• the amount of fuel and oil consumption for the engine;
• suspension form: spring, spring;
• power steering;
• the seller's opinion about the condition of his car;
• car tuning;
• issue with license plates, license plates of the chassis, engine;
• the presence of other UAZ car owners with a military bridge;
• PTS - registration at the place of residence;
• admissibility of withdrawal / registration.

All this information can be obtained by calling the car owner who is going to sell the car.

The right choice when buying

Inspection of UAZ vehicles with military bridges in the parking lot when making a choice to buy a used car.

A large number of malfunctions can be eliminated without certain efforts and consequences - spare parts for such cars can always be found at disassembly, in car dealerships and markets. When checking, the engine should start, there should be no blue and black exhaust from the pipe. Listening to the engine in different operating modes, paying attention to noises and squeaks is a prerequisite. Look for oil drips under the engine - it should be dry under the car.

A thorough diagnosis is required before purchasing.

The lubrication system is checked using a dipstick; oil cannot contain additives and formations. The top-up level is maximum.

The cooling system is checked by fixing the fluid in the expander. Appearance radiator and engine must be free of smudges and stains. Temperature regime the motor is kept at a constant level.

To evaluate the generator, you need to Idling press the gas pedal. According to the indicators of the devices, one can judge the mileage of the car. If the mileage is high, more than 80,000 km, then it is simply necessary to check the compression. It is advisable to perform this procedure when the engine troit, pulls poorly. You can compare the readings using the recommendations for use.

The corrosiveness of the body plays a huge role for the driver who decided to purchase a UAZ with military bridges.

Floor connections, swivel brackets, framing windshield, plastic suspension, a place under the pedals, thresholds where small debris and condensation accumulate, body skirt rear lights- all this can be found when buying a used UAZ car.

Steering gear - check for play and binding on site. When shifting gears, there can be no noise and squeaks, the gearbox must allow switching on gears without them falling out.

The pivots should be free of play; to check, you need to swing the front wheels by the top.

Checking the brakes is that when the pedal is pressed, they are triggered in a certain mode, the car should not be skidded to the side.

Cardan backlash can occur when it rotates. Otherwise, there can be no backlash. Everyone can buy a UAZ, but not everyone will figure out how to repair it and what spare parts are needed for this.

general information

Front axle

CV joint

Pivot knot

Couplings "ELMO", "STELM", "Rus", etc.

Rear axle

• Rear axle construction and repair (Timken)

Cross-wheel locks

Hubs

Tuning bridges. Improvement of UAZ bridges. Non-standard bridges for UAZ

Other information about bridges

The military bridge differs from the usual one in the presence of final drives. Due to the presence of gearboxes, the axle is raised relative to the axle of the wheels by 4 cm, which increases the machine's clearance (the distance from the ground to the lowest point of the axle). Therefore, military bridges are called "U-shaped" (the bridge is like a crossbar of a letter, wheels are attached to the right and left of the letter). The torque does not fall entirely on the main pair (as on civilian bridges), but is distributed between the main pair and the gearboxes. Due to this, the main pair is smaller in size (the crankcase of the military bridge "hangs" 4 cm less than the civil one). The main pair has fewer teeth and they are larger - this increases the reliability of military bridges compared to civilian ones. The gear ratio of military bridges is 5.38 (= 2.77 * 1.94 - gear ratios respectively, the main and final drives) - more "high-torque", but less "high-speed" than conventional bridges.
The rear propeller shaft for military axles is 1 cm shorter than for civil ones! What is the gear ratio of civil bridges?

Until July 1989, a main pair with a gear ratio of 5.125 (41 teeth) was installed in civil bridges, now - with a gear ratio of 4.625 (37 teeth), that is, more "high-speed", but less "powerful". You can find both in stores. You will most likely have to replace the "new" with the "old" main pair when installing very large wheels. It is recommended to replace the main pairs only as a complete set (in the front and rear axles), otherwise the front axle will have to be switched on exclusively in mud, snow, sand, etc., so as not to damage the transfer case and spoil the rubber.

How to determine the gear ratio?

The rear Barsovsky bridge differs from an ordinary military one in only two details:
stockings - taken from the kolkhoen bridge;
semi-axle - original spare part. Which is better - conventional or geared axles - and why?

For the first time this question arose when machines with gear axles appeared on the free sale. The debate "which bridges is better" arises regularly in the conference. All of the frequently cited arguments are summarized here.
Advantages of military bridges over civilian ones:
- clearance of 30 cm (against 22 cm for civilian bridges); according to the latest measurements, a difference of 8 cm is observed only when the I-192 rubber is used on military bridges. With the same wheels, the difference is only 6 cm. (The gain on gearboxes is 40 mm. The gain on the dimensions of the diff crankcase is 20 mm. Total: 60 mm.)
- more "high-torque" (torque) - for the transportation of heavy loads, towing, driving at low speeds in mud;
- more reliable due to the larger size of the teeth of the main pair;
- more reliable due to the even distribution of the load between the main and final drives;
- were developed, among other things, for "escorting a tank column" and (unlike civilians! - see from the magazine "Behind the Wheel") approved by the USSR Ministry of Defense.

Advantages of civilian bridges over military ones:
- less weight (more comfortable ride and (physically) easier to repair);
- fewer parts - easier and cheaper repair;
- installation of commercially available ones is possible;
- installation of a spring suspension is possible (see also remark);
- at the same speed, the engine is less "spun" due to the change in gear ratio;
- less noisy (since the onboard transmissions of military bridges are spur-toothed, and they are more noisy);
- more affordable and cheaper spare parts. parts;
- petrol consumption, other things being equal, is less;
- fewer lubrication points - easier maintenance and less oil required.

Note for long military bridges:
- only a spring suspension is installed on them (for a comparison of spring and spring suspensions, see);
- stability is improved;
- the permeability increases;
- spare parts not available.

Guys, I only agree with you 50%. This 8 cm is not a big advantage. It all depends on the spacer between the steering wheel and the seat! Example. Yesterday we went fishing with 2 UAZs. One 31514-10 +, the other 31514-031 + 8 cm ground clearance (military). It was necessary to drive a section of the road on virgin soil for about 150 meters. We walked in two different tracks purely to satisfy our own curiosity - which is still better - diffs or 8 cm of clearance. It turned out that the diffs are cooler !!! I pulled him out of the snow captivity twice! The road (if I may say so) - the snow is dense, spring. The depth was not measured (we were not driving for this), but it had already sunk! So alas - 8 cm gives a little! [Valera]

The difference (except for a smaller landing in the civilian) has not yet smelled. But I think that the warriors are not fools - since they put such bridges, then when driving off-road they are better. But for driving on the highway at high speeds, simple ones should be better, because warriors do not drive fast and their bridges are adapted specifically for slow driving ... The difference is noticed in critical situations, for example, two weeks ago, when approaching the dacha, the road consisted of wet sticky snow - the "goat" sat down with all its belly, but this is with civilians bridges. I figured that he lacked those ... centimeters ... which make the military man beyond anything. Last winter, on an old "goat" with military bridges, I didn't even think about the road. And there are many such examples - what is there to feel - the cross-country ability of a car that is ... higher - naturally better ...

Civil bridges. Recently I drove out into the forest and had to wade along such a track that the car just lay on it with bridges. I drove, leaving behind two grooves from the gearboxes. It clung, apparently, only by the edges of the wheels. I think it will be much easier with military bridges. At least, if I have to change bridges, I will change to the military. True, the military has one big drawback - the design. Complex mechanics made by Soviet hands are UNRELIABLE.

Military bridges ... are really designed for tough conditions, but the consumption is higher, and noisier and more difficult. However, there is a pattern - all police UAZs are equipped only with civilian bridges (consumption and dynamics are important on asphalt, only I-245 are completed), in the Ministry of Defense there are only military bridges (rubber only I-192).
Operation of the UAZ in the Moscow region is a horror without beginning and end. As a rule, the transmission of the final drives begins to leak at 50 thousand. There are no more problems, after 100 thousand cars, as a rule, they sell to the national economy and ... they ride on it for another 10 years, not really worrying about what is wrong with the bridges.

If you sat down on bridges, then blocking is unlikely to help (unless you bury yourself deeper). There is no doubt they are useful, but not in these situations. By the way, according to my observations (the last 4 years of active hunting in winter, spring and autumn), UAZ vehicles with collective farm bridges, as a rule, lose the ability to move precisely because of landing on bridges. I remember only one case when blockages could really help - moving through a large frozen puddle, the UAZ broke the ice and fell through with its right wheels (it did not sit on the bridges). As a result: the left wheels “wash” on the ice, and the right wheels, reaching the solid ground at the bottom of the puddle, stand motionless. Well, I still took a UAZ with military bridges. In hunting grounds, rarely does anyone drive on virgin lands (almost never). Basically, people drive along the "roads" - a kind of glades in the forest, or knurled "roads" through the fields. In such conditions, the main obstacle is the deep tractor ROUTES, especially in lowlands, swamps and streams, or fallen trees, or stumps, etc. That is, the characteristics of "rowing" with all wheels at the same time are not so important as the ground clearance. In practical terms, if I have one (or two on the side / diagonal) wheels slip, then it will be easier for me to put something under them (branches, twigs, etc.) than to hang the UAZ sitting on bridges and skidding with all four blocked wheels.

A year ago, I replaced civilian bridges with military ones, conclusions:
1. There is no perceptible difference in noise between military and civilian bridges.
2. With a properly adjusted car, the fuel consumption should not increase by more than 1-1.5 liters (for the military).
3. About twisting the engine. At least half of the owners of UAZ vehicles on collective farm bridges have GP 5.125. For the military - 5.38. In total, we get less than 5% twist! At 3000 rpm it is only 150 vol. Funny! But at the same time, as it were, according to the state, I-192 in diameter is more than 245 or 357 by 3%. That is, in the "standard" version, the difference in twisting is less than 2%! (although "standard" options are not so often found in the city (I-192)).

About patency. A well-seated UAZ on both gearboxes of collective farm bridges is practically impossible to pull off with another UAZ of the same kind (even if the one sitting on Goodrich was passed repeatedly). On military bridges, the crankcase is made in the shape of a ski, so the car can move on them, leaving a furrow from the crankcase up to 3 cm deep.

And in conclusion, military bridges are much more reliable than collective farm bridges. And the design is more thoughtful, and the manufacturing is a couple of percent better. [Radomirich]

When installing locks in civil bridges and wheels> = 33 ", you often have to change half-shafts, CV joints or main pairs. These locks are not designed for UAZ, but for armored personnel carriers ... In addition, this lock is not intended for use as a cross-axle differential and the function of the latter to put it mildly, it does not perform very well, which can lead to sad consequences in terms of [not] controllability. Military bridges dramatically improve the situation with breakage, but there are no blockages for them (but there is more clearance). Nevertheless, the entire progressive jeep community is gradually switching to military bridges, including those who some time ago were an implacable supporter of blockages. [_sergey_]

I have recently carried out the operation of repressing the bridges. Now I have gear axles with interlocks. The wheels are huge and the gearboxes just unloaded the load. He did it by pressing out stockings from military and civilian bridges and, accordingly, inserting military stockings into civilians. [Slava] What is needed to replace "civilian" bridges with "military" ones?

1. Plates for rear axle ladders.
2. For the front axles, the bottom ladder cups are the same. But you need to thoroughly clean it from dirt. There is a recess that is not used in civilian bridges and is clogged with mud, but in the military it works.
3. Stepladders of the group and the military. bridges are the same

Report on the replacement of gr.bridges with military ones:

Firstly, I want to immediately ask the person who wrote that it would only be necessary to shorten the rear universal joint by 10 mm and find the plates under the rear axle stepladders, and in this case I will not hit him hard !!!
Hemorrhoids were enough.

1. front brake pipes on the military - their original, they come with a tee.
2. ladder plates are not commercially available as a class. I had to weld square rods with my family.
3. After installing the ladders on the springs, it turned out that they were too long, because the spring has only seven leaves. From a suitable tube, it was necessary to make 20 mm bushings for the nuts, otherwise the thread is not enough.
4. Cut off brake hoses completely refuse to unscrew from the pipes, all sorts of fluids did not help. When the connection is warmed up with a gas burner, I miraculously dodge cutting the hose, which flew out of the flare as a bullet. Lucky !! :-)))
5. Because the bridges were purchased without brakes, i.e. old cylinders, drums were lying in a bag and something was even used, but we had to collect everything from scratch. The drums are machined, the cylinders for polishing and the anthers for the sealant, the pads glued from the Volga - again, labor costs and extra bashlets.
6. All springs were forged and all bushings were replaced.
7. Yes, and the speedometer gear to change - the hands did not reach.
8. In the kit, a transverse thrust was given - I put it, it is straight, without bending under the civilian differential.

This is the job done.
P / S If I knew that the drain of everything would have to be done - I would have thought ten times. And now it's late. We must sell the gr / bridges, at least return the money spent.

Total that it cost me (July 2002):
4500 rubles bridges
2000 main spare parts for internal
1000 locksmith for the bulkhead of final drives
1000 - if not more in small things.
Total: 8500 rubles and two weeks of the Kama Sutra in the evenings and weekends.
It remains to collect some snot.
I rolled a little, nothing seems to be buzzing, but I am not completely convinced of this yet, but I want to calm my soul - the diffs did not touch and therefore it is alarming. The fact that the traction was added and the sprung mass also became noticeable immediately! For the rest, let's see further What are locking differentials?

In the "original" UAZ has unblockable interwheel differentials in the rear and front axles (both civil and military). Therefore, when cornering, as expected, the wheels on one side (the inner side of the turning center) spin slower than the wheels on the other side (outer). In the extreme case, if one of the axle wheels does not experience any resistance (for example, it is hung out with a jack or is spinning in liquid mud), then the other wheel is stationary. This is the lack of differentials on the off-road - if, for example, the car gets into the mud with the right side, no matter how the right wheels are kneading the mud, the left ones remain stationary and the car stands still. To avoid this, the cross-axle differentials are made lockable (rigidly or partially). Hard blocking can be compulsory(lockers) or automatic(self-locking, cam-type diffs).
Lockers are usually pneumatically controlled. Lockers work simply - there is a cylinder with a fork that moves such a crown crap, which actually blocks.
Automatic blocking of the cam differential occurs when the halves of the differential housing are rotated relative to each other (one revolution?), I.e. when one of the wheels is slipping. Such a differential is blocked both when turning forward and backward, and is automatically unlocked when the wheel speeds are equalized (to a certain value?). For machine control features with automatic interlocks, see
Partially blocked - these are high friction diffs (LSD), have a row of discs inside (by the type of clutch), are poured special oil which helps the discs to slow down ... but there is nothing solid there.

And according to the principle of operation ... With such self-blocks, at least 60% goes to the lagging wheel in any situation. In some modes - up to 70-75 (maximum). But the self-blocking block does not care what kind of resistance it overcomes (that is, what caused this resistance to spinning the wheels). It can cover the difference in moments up to 70-30 = 40% of the tractive effort at any combination of resistances (friction in the contact patch of the tire with the road, braking by the service brake or the moment of inertia of a spinning wheel). Therefore, if this very difference in the moments of resistance is not enough to turn the standing wheel (that is, it exceeds these same 40%) ... carefully press the brake. At first, the moment on a standing wheel will simply increase, then it will start to turn (if the engine has enough power), and then, if the difference becomes less than 60-40 = 20%, the differential will generally force both wheels to slip synchronously, as if it is rigidly blocked (it is simple " will bite "with such a big common point). That is, there is a "one hundred percent blocking" (though at what cost ...). Or you can just sharply throttle - the moment of inertia of the suspended wheel will play the same role. And people are still wondering why, when cornering on soft ground, a sharp gas supply can cause a "sharp change in the behavior of the car" with cam differs (when the self-block simply wedges). It is necessary to be more careful with these devices :)) ...

See the principle of operation of the cam differential on the website

From a letter from Technoservice:

Differentials, which will be discussed below, are set only in the so-called. "civil" bridges. It's connected with design features... Today we (Technoservice) have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and with cones. They differ according to the principle of operation. The first works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much smoother, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max.
The first differential is allowed to be installed only in the rear axle, because wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle.
The second differential can be fitted to the front axle. (Grigory Serjantov) What kind of cross-wheel differentials can be installed on the UAZ? Are there many alterations?

Yesterday I received very incomplete information from Gorky (N. Novgorod) that there are self-locking diffs on army bridges in nature !!! The fact is that this summer I asked my friend's father-in-law (he lives in Gorky) to look for information about self-locking diffs on military bridges. And yesterday I was told that he did find a man who has such diffs on army bridges! In short, I think it's worth stepping up your searches! Happy hunting everyone !!!

There are blockages on military bridges! But this is homemade (although drawings can be obtained ... theoretically - because they may not give, but for the money, I think they will put the locks themselves. The principle is the same as from the BTR-60. In general, if you really need and there is money (I did not ask, but for sure an order of magnitude more than for armored personnel carriers ... [Kolka]

Locks in military bridges - automatic machines - a bridge with the installation of 6 - 7 tons. (early August 2000), rigid pneumatics with control with dashboard 8 - 9 t. P. The machines are also 100% blocking - but they turn off when cornering. Machine guns for military bridges - the bridge is permanently hard blocked. In a turn, when overtaking a wheel, the pin is released and the bridge becomes completely free until the wheel lags. Pin back - diagonal away. Old differs are being reworked in the case of a machine gun. The entire bridge is being redesigned in the case of the airlock. Locks "under license" from CCCP special equipment. A friend's license. He will put it. [Chief] Reviews of interlocks in gear axles

Since until the last moment there were no online reviews about the actual use of self-locking differentials for reducer axles I did not find it, except for an article in a 4x4 magazine, I decided to spend some time and describe my own feelings from their operation. So, in contrast to the 4x4 self-blocks of Moscow production described in the magazine, for which the manufacturer clearly not in himself asked for $ 600 apiece (after which the desire to contact his products disappeared - let him heal his head), I purchased Nizhny Novgorod products that have absolutely The principle of operation is the same as in Moscow, but they are more acceptable (for example, they can be bought in an off-rodshop for $ 370). I put self-blocks on both bridges and went to test them at the 3rd stage of the Partisan Trophy. The complexity of the tracks was very high (who cares, pictures from the track -), and the conclusions from the use turned out to be something like this:

1. Self-blocks do not work at all with heavy diagonal hanging. That is, in reality there was not a single time when the rotation of one wheel on the bridge was visually visible when the car was stationary. Moreover, the use of 100% -locking would most likely help the car to get under way. It was not possible to "add gas", as described in the example by a 4x4 magazine, to solve this situation: I drove boggers and the advice would have buried me deeply and for a long time ;-)) It is not clear whether this fact should be taken into account, but 100% blocking no one promised, the manufacturer promises only 70%, although I would doubt this figure too (70% they will work only with a very strong difference in rotation speeds..
2. The understeer has noticeably deteriorated with the steering wheel turned out as much as possible. The turning radius has doubled. It was tested on soft ground in a dense forest ;-)) To make a turn with a minimum radius, I had to reduce the speed. As it turned out, this is a panacea for this glitch: at low speed, the radius is the same.
3. The cross-country ability in a deep rut has significantly improved (this plus is noted by the 4x4 magazine). The difference is huge, those places in the track in which we sat on the bridges a month ago were now easily passed, and if we sat down on the bridges (1-2 times for the whole time), then in that place the track was very gouged and last time I would not even poke my head into this place, but would go around the forest.
4. There is no sound of work (maybe I didn’t hear it, 2 hours after the start my glushak was torn off ;-)))). So it's not at all clear if it was ordinary diff or self-locking =)))

In short, the conclusions from this are as follows: we drive further on self-blocks, but only if it suddenly does not turn out that they quickly crumble. So far, two days of super-heavy operation have shown no lack of strength. There is no tangible superiority of self-blocks on conventional diffs, and most likely there will not be. Therefore, counting on a serious increase in cross-country ability is by and large naive ;-))) How will the further experience - I will definitely share. =)) [Alexander Filatkin ( [email protected])]

Self-blocks, for which the manufacturer asked for $ 600, is, firstly, with the installation, and secondly, they differ in that they are modified specifically for UAZ. As for the ones used by you, these are actually Kvaifs from Moskvich, having the same high quality slightly lower blocking coefficient (different screw angle). The manufacturer is not a plant, but a rather small enterprise, and could reduce prices provided there is a sufficiently large number of sales (in their words).
It is possible to "add gas", but it is possible not to add - just turn on a higher gear - the difference in angular speeds of rotation of the axle shafts will increase, respectively, more torque will be transferred to the frozen wheel. Or you can just "touch" the brake pedal a little - with correctly adjusted brakes, the effect will be the same, although this is hardly achievable for an UAZ with drums))
So "self-blocks" - "self-blocks" are different, and it is not necessary to generalize at once. I personally tested them, and in my jeep there are just such. So far they are fine with me. Another thing is that I personally would prefer Detroit Locker, which simply works a lot better than self-blocking LSD, and than any kind of "coercion". [Ivan Evdokimov (MONSTR4X4), author of the article "The military are blocked"].

BTR-60 are no longer produced, but nevertheless blockages are made in the city of Arzamas, Nizhny Novgorod region, in Kurgan?
! ... The differential search circle narrows down to the V / H fences. Whether the warrant officers responsible for the safety of materiel accept credit cards, traveler's checks or postal orders, I do not know, but it is not human habit to refuse cash.
! Self-locking diffs (from the BTR-60) are often in the village of Vyezdnoye (southern exit from Arzamas) in the GAZ-UAZ store ... Only a few pieces are imported. How to find a store? We leave Arzamas (to the south), cross the railway and after 70 meters on the left (opposite the church) there will be a store (the same one). Working hours: 8-17, Saturday 8-14, Sunday - closed. There is no phone in the store. The owner's phone is (8-247) 9-08-86 (call in the evening, ask Valera). [MISHA from Nizhny Novgorod]
! Interwheel locks from armored personnel carriers are available. Ready for installation on a UAZ vehicle. [email protected]. Tell us how to install self-locking differentials from the BTR-60 in civilian bridges.

Everything is done very simply! You remove the bridge from the car, after draining the oil and unscrewing the brake hoses. Pull out the axle shafts. Then the bridge must be halved. To get to the diff box, you take out the old diff, remove the bearings and the gear wheel of the main pair from it (collect all the gaskets and bolts in a heap - they will still be useful to you). In the new diff you need to drill holes from 10 mm to 12 mm (if they are not drilled). After these operations, you can start assembling - put the gear in place (fortunately, nothing else is required for this), adjust the differential bearings (the book describes in detail the process of adjusting the differential box bearings) and put everything in its original place! ALL!!! The front axle is installed in the same sequence! Good luck with blocking !!! [Valera]

I think everyone has already guessed that differentials are much easier to put in the rear axle :), so I started with it:
1) the gimbal gets out of the way of the bridge;
2) the oil is drained (although all the same you will not merge :));
3) the brake hoses are unscrewed, and the flexible squeeze so that it does not pour;
4) the stepladders are unscrewed, but not completely, so that the bridge still holds a little;
5) the shock absorbers are unscrewed;
6) wheels are removed;
7) is hung out behind the UAZ frame and the ladders are unscrewed to the end - the bridge is removed;
8) the axle shafts are unscrewed and removed;
9) the bridge is halved. Attention: it is better not to tear the bridge reducer gasket !!! I tore mine, but it doesn't exist in stores, even in the South Port! Although you can cut it out of thick Whatman paper, as I did. By the way, semiaxis gaskets are also not a frequent occurrence ... Then you got to the differential and look at the main pair with impatience ... It turns out there are two types (in addition to the number of teeth) - sometimes with 10 mm holes, and sometimes with 12 mm threaded holes, but if you, the thread in the main pair is worse, because you will have to sweat a little and drill holes in the new diff by 12 mm (and for this you need to have a good 12 mm drill bit for metal, and preferably several pieces and preferably self-sharpening, if there are any ). Everything was OK in the rear axle, but I had to drill in the front axle, so everything rested in the absence of such a drill: (and it turned out to be painfully hard metal ...);
10) then you need to torment yourself with the bearings: remove both (7510), for this you just need a puller !!! Without it, we shot for 40 minutes, with it for 13 seconds :), but we need to shoot oh how many times (when adjusting);
11) then the process from the book: dress Ch. a couple, and you do not fill the bearings to the end, but leave a gap of 3-3.5 mm, assemble the bridge together with the gasket, tighten the gearbox bolts, disassemble again and see what you have left of the gap (for one and the other bearing) add to this figure 0.1, divide the resulting number in half and insert the rings in front of the bearings into this thickness. Then you just collect everything to the end!
This, only in brief, Valera told, but about the front axle they wrote: "you do the same thing" ... The first difficulty: unscrew the brake hoses, for some reason they are more stubborn from the front and quickly strive to break off (not only on my UAZ ). The second difficulty is my lack of familiarity with the UAZ :)) I tried to unscrew the axle shafts as well as the rear, but then I realized that not everything is so simple and this is the front axle ... In general, I immediately halved the axle (it was removing :) and unscrewing the steering rods in two places) and then did everything as with the rear, only together with the axle shafts ...
As a result, put everything in its place, pump the brakes, pour oil into the bridges and into the DIRT !!! :-)) A question to Valera and to the others: how wrong was I when I didn't pull out anything in the front axle (axle shafts), but just adjusted the bearings? .. [Kolka]

Finished installing a self-locking differential in the rear axle. Until I forgot:

1. Stepladders otbolgaril immediately. For turning away rusted brake pipes it is necessary to warm them up with a blowtorch or something else and cool them several times, after which they turn away to hot. Having broken one tube, I flared it again, which turned out to be not so difficult.
2. The gaskets between the halves of the axle housing are sold without problems, so that the old one can be torn.
3. It is better to drill 12 holes in the differential with a special multi-thread tool - a countersink, then drill with a drill to 12.1-12.2, if the holes do not match. If you immediately drill with a drill, then due to its beating, an uneven approach is obtained, and the hole slides to the side. Because I did not find the countersink, then I made an entry (to a depth of about 2 mm) with a sweep of 12, but sharpened the ends like a drill. You can't go deeper because the reamer cuts sideways and the hole slides to the side again. Then I drilled it with an ordinary drill at 12. As a result, holes were obtained that exactly coincided with the thread in the driven gear (I sharpened a couple with a file to the side). You can achieve a more accurate alignment of the holes by turning the gear on the dif.
4. The old bolts for fastening the diff to the gear are short, because diff is thicker. After a long search, the GAZ-53 cardan bolts with the letter X were picked up. They are longer and with a head of 17. The unthreaded part of the thread just corresponds to the thickness of the dif, so that when the bolts are screwed to the end, there remains somewhere 1 mm of thread to the driven gear. The bolts must be shortened with a grinder, because if they stick out on the other side of the gear, they will touch the bearing seat of the rear bearing of the drive gear. Additionally, I put the bolts on the thread glue.
5. Pay attention to the differential support bearings. Almost always, shells appear on the rollers - a bearing for replacement. Because of them, the bridge howls at speed. On the advice of the conference, I knocked out the outer ring of the bearing by welding a strip of iron across it and knocking on the outside with the semi-axis. It turned out very easy. Cook gently with a double so as not to overheat the cast-iron nest.
6. It is better to buy a good bearing puller for 300-500 rubles, than to buy disposable Zhiguli ones for 100-200 rubles. I hardly had enough of it.
7. It is better to make special supports under the bridge halves. It is very convenient for multiple assembly and disassembly. The very adjustment of the bearing preload did not cause any problems. Clearance - the required thickness of the shims can be measured with ordinary feelers.
8. The nuts tightening the axle halves can be replaced with the nuts for securing the rocker arm axle. These break down at a time, and those are higher.
9. Differential turning force - 5 kg on the flange. Drive pinion force - 1.5 kg. Total - 6.5 kg. Decreased a lot after oil filling and low mileage. Carter warms up a little.
10. In s.b. diff it is better to pour a special oil for high friction diffs with LS additive. Castrol LS90 or BP Limslip 90 type. I did not find this in Yaroslavl, then I filled in a simple BP 80w90, but if I find a replacement.
11. Retighten the hub bearings. If this is not done, then the inner rings of the bearings begin to rotate on the trunnion and the trunnion will wear out.

In the front one, since 1) it is connected only when the ratchets are screwed in - the resource of the differential, axle shafts, etc. increases 500 km. The latter were simply cut off ...);
2) the load on it is greater (on a medium-loaded machine), therefore, it has more grip on the ground.

I only have it on the front axle because: 1 The resource of these diffs is very limited 2 Such a diff, like the front axle, is needed only on off-road 3 Does not interfere with normal movement on a normal road 4 The front wheels are steered and, in combination with blocking, the result is tangible. [Pyatak]

On my LandRover 110 there are ARB Loker in both axles with forced pneumatic activation from the el. compressor. So: they each turn on with their own button, but without first turning on the rear one, do not turn on the front one. This is a standard scheme. The idea of ​​the imperialists about installing locks first in the rear, and then in the front, in my opinion, is that they include them in difficult conditions, and it seems to them that the rear axle shafts (especially reinforced) will be in mud and on slopes live longer. I don't know how the axle shafts differ in the UAZ, but in Def-e the rear is much more powerful than the front ... Also, if there are self-locking diffs in front, there may be difficulties when driving on the road and with different wheel diameters - everything happens in mud.

From a letter from Technoservice At the moment, we have two types of limited slip differentials: cam and with cones. They differ according to the principle of operation. The first works quite hard, sometimes leading to temporary blocking of the wheels. The work of the second is much smoother, with a smooth increase in torque on the lagging wheel from 0 to 0.65max. The first differential is allowed to be installed only in the rear axle, because wheel locks are not allowed on the front steering axle. The second differential can be fitted to the front axle. [sent by Grigory Serjantov] How does a car with self-locking diffs behave on the road?

On dry or wet asphalt, I did not feel the difference.
In winter, the car becomes completely different (than with simple ones), more abrupt or something, and strives to go along a large radius when cornering.
More resistant to skidding. Probably not, perhaps better controllable in a skid.
All of the above is my personal observation on a specific machine with 2 locks. Can you please tell me if it is possible to put military bridges from the UAZ on the GAZ-69 without significant alterations?

Can! We'll have to leave the native bipod of the steering column and traction from it to the right front wheel... If the shock absorbers are native (lever), then there will be no problems, and if you put telescopic ones, you need to look at the place.
About GAZ-69 see also in the section "Lyrics" and on this site. And what are ELMO, STELM couplings, etc.? Are they needed?

Opinions AGAINST:

The disadvantage is poor protection against the ingress of dirt, sand, etc. - in case of blockage, you have to switch with pliers. They can slip when driving backward.
- It should be taken into account that in order for them to work normally, you need to drive about 10 meters. And they may no longer be. Practice has shown that in this case, it is enough to twist the front cardan back and forth, (but this is for those who want to dive, or you can do that, first you turn on the rear, a little bit, release the clutch just a little bit, and then the third or fourth and also let it go a little, it should be about as if you twisted the cardan with your hand without much effort, after that you can storm the govets boldly!
- It is better to turn your own hub clutches for a long time and tediously than to sort out ELMO in the mud. [Pyatak]
- I threw out two sets of these couplings. I drive UAZ only in mud, and as Ladoga showed, these couplings do not stand up mechanically. In that year, the fastening bolts were cut off in an ordinary swamp. This year, in the mud, when the wheels slipped, it tore it all up from the inside. If you operate UAZ in the city and rarely, on weekends or holidays in the mud, then in my opinion it is better to use regular ones. Twice a week, it's not scary to twist a key. But if there is always dirt, then asphalt and dirt, not particularly, then duralumin switches are more convenient, but still unreliable.
- If the car gets stuck and skids with its rear wheels, then if you turn on the "Elma", and then immediately the front axle, then when the Elma is slipping, they will start to turn on and a "tr-r-r-r" will be heard, the semi-axle cuts off the splines on the "Elma" and kirdyk, ay tractor ! Alternatively, you can hang out the wheel and twist it with your hands so that it snaps into place. Then the same on the other side. True, it is inconvenient and not always possible ... But it will come down to extreme If the car is paralyzed at all, then it is sometimes generally problematic to connect the Elma, since for their reliable inclusion it is still necessary to ride a little (2-3 m) without turning on the front axle. This is especially true in winter and in the presence of thick grease in "Elm", which is not recommended to fill. But whatever one may say, there is no alternative, since you have to turn on / off very often and the "regular" ratchet clutches, no matter how reliable they are, are still inconvenient. All of the above does not apply to sports cars where they spend most of their lives in poop .. [Grump]

Opinions FOR:

I have been standing since birth, there were no problems. And there are also similar, but imported ones. They look more accurate ... Bet, in general. [Victor]
- Reliability of couplings. With 33 wheels, no questions arose. After winter operation (did not turn off) acidified to death. Dismantled, cleaned, poured liquid grease and drove to Ladoga. Everything worked fine. But Declomp broke off the clutch. About a stone. [OlegM]
- I have already covered 19000 km. and I don’t suffer with them. They say that they pop out - I have not come across this. They turn on normally, if you do not swell lithol in them. And you can make them hermitic with your own hands. It's better for me than to use a key every time. But if you don't get out of the mud, then naturally old ones are easier and more reliable.

It is necessary to properly lubricate:
To fill the clutch with lithium "to the very best" from the bottom, and there is no need, since there are no (well, no, that's all) rubbing elements, I went over two types of clutches (outwardly different - the same inside) - and so there are no rubbing surfaces.
My advice is this:
DO NOT score, otherwise they will not turn on.
Lubricate with a thin layer of grease, up to the "grease" level of the parts.
DO NOT lubricate with lithol - lithol is destroyed by moisture and becomes glue / putty / abrasive - anything, but not a lubricant.
Can be greased with violet or even graphite grease.
If you have the money, buy a waterproof lubricant.

For protection from salt on top, you can use cuttings from plastic cocoa cans with screw lids. The diameter is ideal for our products, as well as those from Germany and Poland. Any Nestleys there are not suitable for us: either too narrow, or vice versa.

You can hang protective caps from 1.5 liter plastic bottles on top and turn the tuda-syuda clutch switch at least once every 2 weeks.

By the way, the covers for the couplings come out well from the anthers of the steering from the bull, you just need to glue the hole with an elastic band, though if you wade through the bushes, you can lose it, so it will rip off any ... perfectly protects from water.

First is the seal of the switch. I normally had a plastic oil seal (essno with low interference). Well, it is necessary to achieve a tight fit of the cuff along the inner diameter (for example, using electrical tape or tape fum for look. Check how the cuff enters the body - it should be tight, but rotate with your hand. there was no and the clutch "figured out"). In general, I used not a lubricant in the clutch, but a transmission. Well, when assembling, do not forget about the sealant :-) [Chief] What to do to prevent ELMO clutches from switching automatically?

He switched on ELMO couplings to the 4x2 position. After a few kilometers on the left wheel, the arrow turned out to be about 4x4. I turned on the 4x2 again. It repeated itself. Moreover, the faster you go, the faster it jumps. Clearly, this is a disease. I disassembled the clutch, looked - and did not understand anything. I called a friend, although he is not an UAZovod, but a very smart man. After a couple of minutes, he says - "make a deepening here." In the design of the clutch there is a cup with three shaped recesses along the border of which, when switching 4x2-4x4, balls roll and remain in extreme positions. On the left clutch in the 4x2 position, the ball is where it is shown in the figure and, when moving, tends to move to the opposite corner. You just need to make a small indentation under it for a clearer fixation. It helped me. [Anatoly Khokhryakov (HOHAN)]

The bridge is buzzing. What could it be?

If you are sure that it is the bridge that is buzzing, and not something else, then you need to sort it out. For some reason, our people think that nothing can happen to the bridge :) - maybe, and how. On my old UAZ, the bridge hummed terribly - when I got tired of it - I disassembled and found a broken axle shank at the point of entry into the bearing in the final drive - changed the axle shaft, at the same time changed the main pair (since I disassembled the bridge), several bearings and all the oil seals - repair cost 10% of the cost of a new bridge - no hum, fuel consumption has dropped sharply, etc. So don't do bullshit - go over the bridge. By the way, I recommend rolling out the bridge from under the car as an assembly, right on the wheels - I, like a fool, disassembled it in place - I got scared, then it dawned on me - I collected it completely separately from the car, filled in oil, etc. and rolled it back - it remains to attach springs, shock absorbers and brake pipes :).
The hum comes from the main gear front axle... This is fine. After the first 4 thousand and changing the oil in the transmission (filled in the TAD-17), the noise became much lower. In winter, on a snow-covered road with the front axle on, there is only a slight whistle at a speed of 80-90 km / h. My "Goat", unlike most, has caps of unknown purpose welded (or screwed) to the rear axle shafts (from the butt end). Does anyone know why they are needed and whether they are needed at all? The thing is, I want to put the hubcaps on the rims, and because of these protruding tapered caps, I will have to cut an additional hole in the hubcaps. How to tear them off? I tried to unscrew them, but nothing worked.

This is a constructive, ineradicable feature of military bridges. These caps transmit the moment from the short shaft of the gearbox to the hub (inside it has splines). Most likely, you will have to make an extra hole. And you can also change the bridges. Recently I saw strange hubs on the "loaf". The bridges are ordinary, civil, and the flange of the axle shaft is fastened not with six, but with ten bolts (as in the military). What could it be?

I bought these hubs a year ago. They differ from the previous ones only in the number of holes and are quite compatible with them (six-bolt axle shafts fit on them without alterations). On a normal hub and a normal axle shaft, there should be absolutely no discrepancies. Of these 10 holes, 6 are exactly the same as the old ones. The remaining 4 were added in the middle between them, and 2 gaps were left so that the removable half-axle bolts rested there (there are 2 threaded holes in it to press it out of the hub if it is stuck. These holes just need to be directed to missing holes in the 10-hole hub). And now no one sells or manufactures 6-hole hubs. And why, if they should stand up instead of 6-hole ones without alterations and debugging? How to adjust the tightening of wheel bearings?

There is a trick in bearings - if you tighten the first nut under normal bearing preload, then the second, when you start countering, picks up slack in the thread and squeezes the bearing. I adjust by removing the brake drum so that the single-naked hub is and rotates in the bearings after locking easily and evenly, without biting, i.e. evenly. If the bearing is slightly overtightened, then the rotation is jerky, like on a sand, fingers feel it well.
Then I check it with the wheel on - then the lever turns out to be large. October 2003 About CV joints according to the Willis system

We have on sale the front axle semi-shafts (unequal angular velocity hinge) according to the Willis system (American). They differ from our relatives in that instead of five small stupid balls there is one big one. On it, grooves are made in two mutually perpendicular planes along the entire circumference. This groove contains two forks. Their advantages: they do not wear out at all (eternal system), in principle they cannot jam (which happens with relatives), a greater angle of rotation of the front wheels is possible. I have them for the fifth year, they have proven themselves great! They cost less than their relatives. Produced, it seems to me, in Vyksa (Nizhny Novgorod region) [MISHA from Nizhny]

As far as I understood, kinematically this is no different from the usual cardan joint... This means that it really is of unequal angular velocities (which is worse than equal, as a native one) and that the angle of rotation of the wheels is LESS than that of the native CV joint. Now, if the grooves were not in planes, but had a more complex shape, then this would completely change the matter. In addition, the most loaded surfaces there have sliding friction, and not rolling, as in the family, which means that the lubricant is desirable, apparently, hypoid (and not Litol) ... Wear, for the same reason, is also questionable. Another thing is that it is enough for relatives to wear out a little to jam, and these can, apparently, wear out until the forks wear out. I have a book on the history of the domestic automotive industry, and a disc hinge is drawn there. It is kinematically equivalent, in my opinion, to two gimbals combined at one point. I don’t remember exactly, but perhaps this particular design was called "Willis-type hinge". It is a constant velocity joint, if only because it is symmetrical. And the angle of rotation of the wheels, apparently, is greater ... Signs for pivot adjustment / replacement

When passing bumps, when jumping up, blows to the steering wheel.

You hang the wheel with a jack higher, take it from the bottom of the wheel (right next to the ground) and start pulling towards you - away from you, i.e. along the axis of the bridge. If the backlash is small, then it is normal, if it is large, then it is necessary either to deal with gaskets, or to change everything. How to unscrew a rusty gearbox plug? After three years of driving on salt, the corks on the bridges are corroded. Outside 2 mm sticks out - you can't grab it, the hex slot has become round. I overcame one cork using the sadistic method - I drilled it out and taps out the remains of the thread with taps - it took 2.5 days. Tell me, is there a less bloody way?

I took a vice (they had new jaws, ribbed, made of hard alloy) and dived with them under the car. The piece of cork was clamped very tightly, putting a pipe on the handle of the vice. Then I thrust a crowbar into the hole in the vise and jerked hard and hard. The cork moved 1/6 of a turn. Further a matter of technology.
You can also try to grip first with pliers (a semicircular part with a good notch), and then clamp the pliers with a vice. In this way, I have unscrewed broken bolts and studs more than once.

Believe me - the most correct thing: weld a nut on a cork - it only seems difficult - in fact, the easiest way.
The plug will be calcined and turned off during welding. You can easily unscrew it with a simple head. The plug can be used further

These plugs are on sale. They are the same with the Volga, so you can try to look in GAZ stores.
Our standard sequence of actions was as follows:
1) you hammer a hexagon by 13 (and finally tear off the edges on the cork);
2) knock out the cork with a chisel counterclockwise (until it is flush with the bridge);
3) you weld on a piece of iron (for example, a hexagon) and, trying to unscrew for it, (you tear it off several times);
4) you drill a 12-14 mm hole in the cork (from this moment, if the cork is filler, you can plug it with a piece of wood :) and cut the remaining ring in half and take out the parts ... (Attention: there is a tapered thread on the plugs!)
I wish to unscrew the plug in the first steps The car "prowls" at high speed. Shock absorbers, wheels, steering are ok. What's the matter?

The symptom is very typical for a malfunction called "incorrect adjustment of wheel hub bearings" - the increased backlash in them causes one or more wheels to "yaw", which immediately affects directional stability. Apparently, you ... are constantly driving "over 100", although chassis machines, and, in particular, wheel hubs, are not entirely adapted for this. UAZ has a HUGE unsprung weight and a very stiff suspension! I advise you to revise the front wheels, for sure there is either a large backlash, or in general - the destruction of the separators, although in the latter case you would have heard it even at the UAZ.
Tighten the bearings EXACTLY according to the instructions - and not "until the hand-felt backlash is eliminated", even if the wheel rotates a little stiffly - check then, by the heating of the hub. [Makhno]

I completely agree with Makhno about the hubs, but pivots, and especially bushings, can significantly affect directional stability. Theoretically, there could be such a situation: the pivots could initially be placed in the steering knuckles without bushings (what just does not happen with us?) At first they worked without bushings due to the fact that they were well pressed against the steering knuckles. Having worn out, the CV joints began to dangle. Hence the exchange rate instability.
You need to do what Makhno advises - hang up the front wheels, stagger in a vertical direction. If there is any backlash, disassemble the hubs and tighten the bearings. If after that the backlash does not disappear, then deal with the pins. Wheel alignment adjustment

Here's one easy way.
You find a stick, pipe, etc. that is suitable in size (it should pass freely between the wheels with a gap of 5-30 mm). At worst, you can even use a thick branch of a suitable length. Then you make marks from the inside of the tires (in the middle between the tread and the edge of the disc) and measure the distance between them with a stick and a ruler (with it you measure the gap between the end of the stick and the sidewall. The difference in the ruler readings is the descent, and the gap in the front should be less than in the back.
Ideally, 2 tubes are used, one of which fits into the other with a small gap [Chief] How to remove the right upper king pin cover (with steering lever)?

This lever is very loaded, therefore, on the studs, under the nuts of its fastening, in special holes "crackers" are installed - hardened cone inserts with a cut. They, when pressed with a nut from above, are squeezed around the rod of the stud, and provide reliable fastening of the lever. Over time, the whole thing rusts greatly from the water that gets there and, indeed, if this unit itself was not assembled, it can be very difficult to remove the lever - the crackers seem to bite themselves between the body of the lever and the hairpin. It is NOT NECESSARY to heat this business. The nuts must be removed, cleaned all around and found and cleaned the cuts on the "breadcrumbs" - pour WD-40 or kerosene around the studs, wait two hours, periodically pouring more. But then - knock with a hammer (500 g) on ​​the upper plane of the lever, from above. Put something on the hairpins so as not to break them off - you will be tortured to twist them later. Tap from the sides periodically, but lightly. [Makhno] A few tips for disassembling a military bridge (to replace CV joints)

For disassembly, you just need to unscrew the wheel, and half.
And I draw your attention: IT IS NECESSARY TO ASSEMBLE THE AIRBORNE CASE OR WITH AN OLD GASKET OR WITH THE SAME AS IT WAS ON THICKNESS. This is important for rolled gears.
AND YET DO NOT REMOVE WITHOUT EXTREME NECESSITY fastening the housing of a small roller bearing (2 bolts are similar to cardan bolts) THE REASON IS THE SAME [Elk post] Homemade pivot puller

Take a piece of sheet steel, 100x150 and about 8-10 mm thick, drill an 11 mm hole in the center. AND EVERYTHING! To this you also need an M10 bolt with a length of 80-10 mm and a nut with a washer.
Procedure: remove the thrust plate, turn its bolts back, by hand, so that they protrude 15 mm, put YOUR plate on top, screw the nut onto the bolt and, putting the washer through the hole in the "puller", screw it into the kingpin. Now, if, while holding the head of the bolt, rotate the nut, the king pin will EASILY come out. [Makhno]

We remove the trunnion, CV joint and from the inside we burst with something specific or with a sledge hammer through the mandrel. Possibly with bushings. And the bushings should always be unrolled with a sweep ...
(folk recipes) "Volgovskie" bridges

We ... make combined bridges. The carter bridge is taken from the Volga 24-ki and the Uazovskie stockings are pressed, and the main pairs are set different, but the most comfortable from the Gaz-21 (9x41 tooth). Such bridges run longer and more reliable, the UAZ does not lose power and become faster.

I redid my own bridge for GAZ-24 on my UAZ. The speed has become much higher, the consumption is 11-12 liters. True, with a load of 600-800 kg is a little heavy

An unexpected revelation for me was that the oil seals, in particular the hub seals, are corroded (Ж8Опрст) by ordinary lithol for some week there. The working edge does not remain at all, and the rest is smeared with black soot: (For myself, I concluded that before installing, the oil seals need to be held for a day or two in an environment similar to the one in which they will work (for example, in a mixture of Litol and TAD) and see what happens. How to get rid of axle hub leaks (provided that the air vents are in good order and the oil seals are in order - (Y))

You need: ABRO red sealant, ABRO blue thread lock, solvent (white spirit, kerosene can be used, but gasoline is very undesirable!), If the hub cap bolts are badly worn out, then new bolts, and some more rags. First, remove the covers, soak the bolts (even new ones) in a solvent, wipe the cover and hub with rags and solvent, wait until it dries. We take the sealant, and smear the cover and the hub with a thin layer, then with a bare finger (aesthetes can wear rubber gloves or whatever is suitable in size :) we smear the sealant so that it lies in a thin, even layer. Yes, it is advisable to jack the wheel to make it easier to align the holes in the cover and hub. We put on the lid, but not completely, by turning the wheel we align the holes, take the bolts, wipe them clean, drip the retainer onto the thread, and bait the bolts. Yes, GROvers DO NOT NEED AT ALL, without them it is better. Then tighten the bolts evenly and tighten them completely. The sealant should crawl out quite a bit; after hardening, we cut off the excess. Immediately after that, it is impossible to go, it is advisable not to lower the wheel to the ground for an hour. That's all. The entire operation takes a maximum of half an hour per wheel. No leaks, no loosening, which is what I wish for you! [Roman aka Behemoth 4x4] Comparison of conventional ("civil") bridges and "spicer" bridges

For "spicers":

New type pivots and constant velocity joints are installed on Hunter machines and on new machines of the 316x family. The new design pins are identified by healthy nuts on the pivot caps. See figure.

Authorship - Woldi.

Bridges (central part) MTZ-82 + final drives from the T-40. Installed "native" self-blocking locks from MTZ in both bridges. Rubber 36 "

For UAZ cars different models and at different times the plant installed many variants of bridges. Let's try to figure it out ...

UAZ Timken bridge (civil or collective farm)

This is a split type bridge, that is, a bridge consisting of two halves. This type can also be attributed (it is gear or portal). From the factory, civil bridges are installed on UAZ trucks of the cargo range (loaf, onboard,), as well as on cars passenger row UAZ-3151 (469).

Gear ratios of military bridges UAZ

The gear ratio of military bridges is 5.38 (= 2.77 * 1.94 - the gear ratios of the main and final drives, respectively) - more high-torque, but less high-speed than that of conventional bridges.

Military bridge characteristics

• Ground clearance: 300 mm (with tires I-192 215/90 R15 (31 x 8.5 R15)
• Track: 1445 mm
• Track of UAZ Bars gear axles: 1600 mm
• Front military axle weight UAZ: 140 kg
• Rear military axle weight UAZ: 122 kg

Diagram of the gear (military) bridge UAZ

Rear axle UAZ with final drive:

1 - cover of the main gear housing; 2 - differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - a sealing gasket; 5,7 - drive gear bearings; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange;
10 - nut; 11 - dirt reflector; 12 - ring; 14 - spacer sleeve;
16 - leading gear wheel of the main transfer; 17 - satellite; 18 - right semiaxis; 19 - side gear housing; 20.29 - oil deflectors; 21 - semi-axle bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - sealing gasket of the side gear housing; 24 - side gear housing cover; 25 - bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 - wheel bolt; 31 - pin; 32 - hub bearing; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - lock washer; 35 - leading flange; 36 - nut of hub bearings; 37 - lock washer; 38 - bushing; 39 - the driven shaft of the side gear; 43 - driven shaft bearing; 44 - driven gear wheel of the side gear; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - drain plugs;
47 - the leading gear wheel of the side gear; 48 - right cup of the satellite box; 51 - main gear housing; 52 - washer of the semi-axle gear;
53 - semi-axle gear; 54 - axis of satellites; 55 - driven gear wheel of the main transfer; 56 - left cup of the satellite box; 57 - left semi-axis

Steering knuckle of the front axle UAZ with final drive:

a - signal groove;
I - right steering knuckle; II - left steering knuckle; III - wheel cut-off clutch (for variant, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - oil seal; 2 - ball bearing; 3 - hinge steering knuckle; 4 - gasket; 5 - grease nipple; 6 - kingpin; 7 - pad; 8 - steering knuckle body; 9 - king pin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 - the driven shaft of the side gear; 12 - hub; 13 - leading flange; 14 - clutch; 15 - retainer ball; 16 - protective cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - pin; 19 - lock nut;
20.23 - support washers; 21 - leading gear wheel of the side gear; 22 - locking pin; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - thrust washer; 26 - axle shaft casing; 27 - bolt of rotation limitation; 28 - stop-limiter for wheel rotation; 29 - steering knuckle lever

The device of the military bridge (photo)

Video replacement and adjustment of the main pair on the UAZ military bridge

Bridges Spicer UAZ Patriot and Hunter

Spicer is not a split, one-piece bridge.

In the early 90s, for the new UAZ-3160 vehicle at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, Spicer-type drive axles with a one-piece crankcase were developed.

The absence of a split in the transverse plane of the axle gives the structure high rigidity, the unloaded connection between the cover and the crankcase reduces the likelihood of leakage along the joint, and the placement of the main gear and differential in a single crankcase ensures high precision of engagement and more favorable conditions for the operation of bearings.

• Spicer bridges width for UAZ Patriot - 1600 mm
• Width of Spicer bridges for UAZ Hunter - 1445 mm

Spicer bridge differential