All off-road enthusiasts purchase all-wheel drive off-road vehicles to overcome various obstacles. Four-wheel drive is a system for distributing speed and power along two axles of the vehicle. Cars equipped with all-wheel drive have a permanent four-wheel drive or pluggable. To ensure the transmission of angular speed to all wheels, a transfer case is installed in cars of this type. There will be a further article about her.
What is a transfer case in a car
Transfer case Is a mechanism that distributes the torque coming from the engine to the drive mechanisms, that is, the differentials. Most often, the transfer case is used in off-road vehicles, as well as in some sports cars, which increases their stability on the road.
In SUVs, the transfer case performs the following functions:
- Distributes the moment between the axles, which ensures the best cross-country ability of the car, and in this way the full potential of the engine is fully realized. The possibility of such a phenomenon as power circulation is automatically eliminated.
- Increases torque to the drive wheels by using a downshift, this helps drivers overcome serious off-road obstacles.
- Provides a stable position and movement of the car at low speed when all the torque is involved.
What are the transfer cases
Transfer cases can be divided into several types:
- By switching positions:
- Non-switchable. A car with permanent all-wheel drive, without the ability to turn it off;
- Connectable. In this case, if necessary, you can connect an auxiliary bridge, while one of the axes will always be the leading one, the other is connected;
- Equal. With such a transfer case, any axle can be driven, depending on the choice.
- By control system:
- Automatic control of the transfer case. All changes take place automatically using a torque converter or servo drive. All decisions about the need for any switching are made by the electronic control unit. Such a system can also be called electronic all-wheel drive. The main plus is that the electronics correctly distributes the moment between all wheels. And the disadvantage is that it all depends on the electronics and hydraulics, as such a system adds extra weight to the car.
- Semi-automatic. The main difference from the automatic machine is that the driver can intervene in the all-wheel drive control at any time through various buttons on the panel. This allows the driver to independently choose the driving mode depending on the situation and need, namely, connect or disconnect the all-wheel drive at a certain moment.
- Manual or mechanical. The main governing body of the mechanism is a lever brought into the car's salon near the gear lever.
The main advantage of such a system is its reliability, as well as the absence of the risk of failure of the electronics. But the downside is that you cannot switch modes on the go, for this you first have to completely stop.
Handout on Niva 21213: basic malfunctions, and their elimination
Niva has excellent off-road potential, and that is why it becomes an indispensable assistant when going out into the wilderness. But, as with any car with a domestic SUV, problems can also occur.
Like any mechanism, the dispenser also fails, and by the following symptoms it can be easily determined:
- Delays when turning on the front axle, turning it off abruptly. This situation can only happen in the case of early modifications with a demultiplier. All Niva cars have permanent four-wheel drive, but many craftsmen upgrade their cars, after which they have the opportunity to turn off the front axle.
- Constant overheating under load. A possible reason will be a low oil level, if the reason is in it, then the oil must be added, if not, then this is caused by increased friction of the parts.
- Increased oil consumption for the gearbox. The reason is any leakage due to wear of the oil seals, loose crankcase bolts, or simply an incompletely tightened drain plug.
- Looseness of the transfer case and gearbox mountings. Leads to strong vibrations in the passenger compartment. May be associated with fastening mechanisms or centering the transfer case.
- Vibrations can also be caused by damaged transmission mounts, this issue is solved by simply replacing broken parts.
- Looseness of the flange bolts, as well as its wear. It is solved by replacing or tightening the bolts, in the worst case - by purchasing an intermediate shaft. This breakdown leads to noise and vibration at first only when starting from a place of a car, later it turns into a constant hum at a speed of over 80 kilometers per hour.
- Seized propeller shaft joints. Breakage occurs due to the drying out of the elements; in order to eliminate it, you will have to renew the lubricant with the help of a syringe. If the re-injection did not help, then you will have to replace the whole part.
- Similarly, the CV joint can jam, this is either due to a lack of lubrication, or due to deformation. In case of severe wear, you will have to buy the entire intermediate shaft, if it was only a grease - you can simply replace it.
- Cardan backlash is solved by replacing.
- Differential wear can lead to noise and crackling when cornering, only replacing the differential will correct this cause.
- Satellites and their obstructed movement often become a possible cause of cornering noise. This is due to burrs, which can be removed with a file.
- Often, it is not the transfer case itself that fails, but the lever, rod and fork, which impede full control of the unit. Also, these parts can simply stick, for this they must be cleaned of dirt or, in case of severe wear, replaced.
How to remove the distributor from the Niva
There is nothing complicated in removing and repairing the demultiplier, this procedure can be carried out by any person who has the right tool. The main difficulty of this car is that the transfer case is not attached directly to the checkpoint itself, like in modern SUVs, in Niva they are connected using intermediate shafts.
The dismantling of the unit itself is quite simple; for this, the car is driven into the inspection pit. All levers in the passenger compartment are set to neutral. Then the plastic cover is removed from the tunnel and all covers and handles are removed. Then the hatch is unscrewed, which opens access to the distributor. The speedometer sensor is also removed, after which the driveshafts are disconnected. At the end, it remains to unscrew several fasteners of the box itself, and then remove it. After the mechanism is removed, you can proceed to disassemble it for further replacement of worn parts. In general, the installation is carried out in the reverse order, but it is worth paying attention to centering the transfer case with the gearbox, that is, it is necessary to convince the flange of the gearbox drive shaft to be connected to the transfer case intermediate shaft, after which you can tighten the mounting bolts of the range itself.
Do-it-yourself Niva 21213 handout repair (video)
Outcome
Niva has permanent four-wheel drive, and the car itself is inexpensive. And that is why, in terms of reliability and price, it is the best choice for outdoor enthusiasts. Maintenance of an all-wheel drive for this car will cost symbolic money, nevertheless, the very design of the mechanism has a fairly high reliability for such a price.
Every decent SUV should have a transfer case in its design. The VAZ 2121 Niva, as a decent SUV, also has a RK on board, but not all owners use it correctly, and we are not talking about the device. In order to at least slightly dispel the aura of mystery on the distributor, we tried to describe its structure and features of operation.
Handout Niva - device and diagram
Everything that you see in the drawing is called a transfer case with a range multiplier. It is easier to understand how it works if you consider its purpose and features of its work.
Regardless, we have presented an open source diagram that fully describes the transfer case design.
Why are there such difficulties? Build a second gearbox to boost output torque? Exactly. Everything will become clearer when we consider the purpose of the VAZ 2121 transfer case. Everything seems to be simple - the transfer case is needed in order to correctly distribute the torque between the driving axles of the car. But not only for this. Another important function of the transfer case is to increase the output torque. Scientifically, this is called a demultiplier.
That is, such important functions of the handout can be distinguished:
- distribution of torque between the axles of the vehicle;
- center differential lock;
- the ability to disable one of the driving axles;
- the ability to mount a power take-off to ensure the operation of additional equipment;
- increasing the torque on the driving wheels by engaging a low gear.
The order of work of the distributor VAZ 2121
When the vehicle is driven on a flat, dry road, the grip is satisfactory and there is no need to use the additional RC functions. The rotation of the drive shaft is transmitted equally to the front and rear axles. Thus, the amount of torque transmitted to each of the axles directly depends on the load on each of them.
... and a gasket.
We take the rear axle drive shaft out of the rear cover and disassemble it in the same way as the front crankcase shaft of the VAZ 2131.
Rear axle drive shaft parts and rear cover.
Using the "13" key, unscrew the two nuts securing the gear lever bracket to the transfer case housing ...
… And remove the gearshift bracket with the lever.
Disconnect the gear shift lever from the bracket in the same way as removing the differential lock lever.
Having finally unscrewed the nut of the drive shaft flange, ...
… Remove the flange.
Using the "13" wrench, unscrew three nuts ...
... and remove the drive shaft front bearing cover.
The connection is sealed with a gasket.
Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the hatch.
Remove the hatch and gasket.
Remove the lever spring from the shift fork rod and move the rod cover.
Inside the hatch, using a 10-ring spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the plug to the rod.
To prevent the ball and spring of the retainer from jumping out, ...
… Cover the hole with your finger and gradually pull the stem out with pliers.
In this case, the ball of the retainer falls out through the side opening of the crankcase.
Remove the retainer spring with tweezers.
Pulling the rod further, remove the shift clutch fork ...
... and a spacer plastic sleeve.
We take out the stock.
The rods of the differential lock fork and the gear shift fork of the VAZ 2121 are sealed with rubber rings. Let's show their removal using the example of the gear shift fork ring.
Prying off with a screwdriver, ...
… Take out the rubber sealing ring.
We unlock the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts of the VAZ 2131.
With a spanner wrench "27" we unscrew one of the nuts, keeping the shafts from turning by the other nut with a wrench or a head of the same dimension.
Remove the nut and washer.
Insert the propeller shaft mounting bolts into the flange holes and put the flange on the splines of the drive shaft of the transfer case of the VAZ 2121.
We unscrew the second nut, keeping the shafts from turning with a mounting blade inserted between the bolts.
Remove the nut and washer. Remove the drive shaft flange.
Remove the drive shaft front bearing thrust washer.
Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the transfer case.
The remaining nuts of this cover were removed when removing the drive shaft front bearing cover, front axle drive housing and gear lever bracket.
Remove the front cover of the transfer case of the VAZ 2131 with a differential.
Remove the gasket from the transfer case crankcase studs.
Using the pliers, remove the adjusting ring of the front bearing of the differential housing.
Disconnect the Niva 2121 differential and the transfer case front cover.
We take out (or knock out through a drift from soft metal) the outer ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft from the seat of the front cover.
Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the front bearing of the differential housing ...
... and take it off.
Remove the spring washer.
We install a suitable stop for the puller screw in the hole of the front case of the Niva 2131 differential ...
... and a three-armed puller ...
… We press the front bearing.
If necessary, remove the rear bearing of the Niva 2121 in the same way.
We put marks on the front and rear differential housings so as not to disturb the balance of the unit during assembly.
Clamping the differential case in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...
… With a 17 ”spanner wrench, unscrew the six bolts holding the driven gear, front and rear differential cases.
Disconnect the front and rear differential housings.
In this case, the driven gear remains on the front housing.
We knock it off the body through a drift made of soft metal.
Disconnect the driven gear and the front differential housing.
Remove the support washer from the front axle drive gear ...
... and take out the gear itself.
Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the satellite axis and remove it.
Remove the Niva 2131 satellite axle spring washer.
Hooking with the pliers on the other retaining ring, we take out the axis of the satellites.
We take out the support washer and satellite from the rear differential housing.
Taking out the second satellite and its washer, we remove the rear axle drive gear.
To remove the input and intermediate shafts ...
… With pliers, remove the locating ring of the rear bearing of the drive shaft.
Similarly, dismantle the intermediate shaft rear bearing ring.
We take out the drive shaft from the crankcase ...
... and the intermediate shaft.
We clamp the spline part of the drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...
... and, hooking the puller paws on the gear shift clutch, ...
… Remove the rear bearing, bushing, low gear and clutch.
Remove the clutch hub and top gear from the shaft.
Press the front bearing of the drive shaft with a puller.
Remove the rollers from the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a screwdriver ...
... and remove the separator.
We clamp the intermediate shaft of the Niva 2121 in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.
Prying with two assembly blades, we press the inner ring of the front bearing ...
... and take it off.
We remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft in the same way as the front bearing of the drive shaft.
We assemble the transfer case of the Niva 2131 in the reverse order.
When assembling the center differential, we combine the marks on its housings.
We install the spring washer on the axis of the satellites from the side of the blind hole at the end of the axis.
Press on with suitable pipe sections ...
... the inner race of the front intermediate shaft bearing, ...
... front axle drive shaft bearing (tube rests on the inner ring) ...
... and differential bearings.
In the same way we press on the bearing of the rear axle drive shaft, the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft, the front and rear bearings of the drive shaft.
We install the drive and intermediate shafts in the transfer case at the same time.
All gaskets are lubricated with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
After tightening the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts to the specified torque, we lock the nuts by pressing their collars into the grooves of the shanks of the shafts.
After assembly, fill in oil (see Oil change).
Stud attachment point:
1 - crankcase;
2 - bushing;
3 - the rest of the boss;
4 - hairpin
Repair of the transfer case crankcase stud fastening
At the transfer case of the Niva 2121, the right (long) boss bursts, into which a special pin is pressed, securing the box to the bracket. For repairs, you can grind the bushing out of duralumin, as shown in the figure, saw down all the ribs on the remaining part of the boss and saw off its outer diameter to fit the bushing tightly. Having installed the fastening pin in the hole, you need to press in the bushing until it stops and weld it around the perimeter to the box body.
Transfer case VAZ 2121, Niva 2131
- - Dispenser device
- - Features of the design of the transfer case
- - Causes of vibration in the transfer case
- - Changing the oil in the transfer case
- - Replacing the transfer case oil seals
- - Speedometer gear housing
- - Transfer case suspension bracket
- - Differential lock lamp switch
- - Removal and installation of the transfer case
- - Disassembly and assembly of the transfer case
Nodes and transmission device VAZ 2121, VAZ 2131
Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.
1:1094 2:10498
Today, probably, every Nivavod has heard and knows about the wonderful "know-how" - Anti-vibration handles for handouts from niva-komfort.ru
New tuning levers of the transfer case are assembled as a gearshift lever. These are no longer just metal rods, but levers with "stuffing" containing anti-resonant bushings, which absorb vibration and noise - as I write about them on the site.
I found references to the Shniv clutch on the Internet, then I was looking for information on this topic.
stock to be replaced
this one no longer fits
At the service station, he began to persuade the master to screw it to the car - he refused completely. He does not repair the checkpoint, and even more so, the RK, but I persuaded him. While the checkpoint was being removed / installed, this device was also screwed in the "heap" - nothing complicated. I was more surprised how I could switch the control gear before when the old levers were removed - they practically did not move on their axles at all!
The new lever went into the salon a little in the wrong place, took aim and had to remove the RK again (they had not fastened it to the checkpoint yet and the cardans had not been hung) to bend the lever "in place" - we hit the first time! (thanks to the master, he has a "diamond eye") and put everything in place.
I ran to the store and bought there rubber cover gearshift lever (native detail) - he sat down very well on the base of the new RK handle, and "nailed" the bottom of the cover with a tunnel lining, setting it into one of the holes for the old levers. And the second hole was "temporarily" plugged with a piece of parallelogram.
The best part is the anti-vibration handles! When I put the wings, I didn’t think about it at all. It seemed to me that everything was standard and there was nothing like that in the fact that I put a set of bushings from the gearbox and a trimmed gearshift lever on the RK - I did just that.
As a result, I "killed several birds with one stone" at once:
- one lever on the RK while maintaining its performance;
- Smooth soft shifting like in ShNiva;
- the handle of the PK lever from the shnivy (instead of the "clown" balls);
- "anti-vibration" handle, with one instead of two.
Two years later, I learned about the proprietary miracle pens and was happy that it cost me $ 20 instead of $ 65. for the yellow "invention".
The impressions from the installation are the most positive - I advise everyone! To do it yourself, if you have welding, will not be difficult, and the result surpasses everything.
Well, now in more detail:
1) If you want quiet levers, you can do this:
But we will go the other way, by altering the lever according to the principle of a checkpoint or RK Niva-Chevrolet. Everyone knows that there are ready-made, yellow levers:
The price of the issue without delivery is 2000r, which is not at all budgetary. Therefore, after reading articles on D2 and NivaFAQ, I decided to do it myself:
We go to the store to look for rem. set of backstage checkpoint from the Volga or Gazelle. Everywhere they offer these boxes:
A lot of unnecessary items included
The price is 380-420 rubles per piece, taking into account that you need two, and even the pipes themselves, which are worn on top on the wings. As a result, it turns out a little more than 1000 rubles, which also did not suit me and decided to go to the market.
On the market, everything is simpler and there is more choice, you can separately buy only the slide and separately only the tube without the ball (handle) and the lower elastic band (boot).
As a result, we get:
17:1901 17:2068
I will show an example on the lock lever, it has a slight bend to the left.
Before welding:
We get:
19:1184 19:1384
Lever ready
You can use the tubes of the RC levers from the Chevrolet Niva, but they are less common and more expensive.
Expenses:
- 2x Backstage checkpoint gazelle \ volga 200r
- 2x Gear lever tube classic 160r
- 2x Rem. backstage kit for the check point VAZ 2101-07 40r
Total: 400r
Time and money were well spent, very useful improvement in the field:
- Solves 90% of the howl from handouts
- Vibration is no longer transmitted to the levers
- Soft turn-on, very similar to the checkpoint
After complete soundproofing, I noticed that a lot of noise was coming from the RK levers. On the Internet I met "tuned" handles, assembled according to the type of checkpoint backstage, but the price did not suit (2t.r)! You can make such pens yourself.
We need:
1.
Gear lever, 5 speed manual gearbox Gazelle lower part (devil) (3302-1702140) 2pcs.
2.
VAZ gear lever
(you can use the PK Shniva lever, but I did not find it, it is not available anywhere)
I used 1 lever from the gazelle (it is the cheapest), and the second lever from the VAZ gearbox was lying in the garage.
3. Canned backstage VAZ-2101, Volga, Gazelle 2pcs
I did everything on the removed razdatka, because I went through the box and changed the clutch
1. Cut off the excess part from the gear lever
cut one centimeter higher from the end of the constriction
2. Cut off the native RC lever at the beginning of the bend to keep the handle tilted
3. We weld the cut off parts
4. Cut the gearshift lever 1 cm below the thickening
5. cut off the lever on the distributor leaving 2 cm and weld the cut gearshift lever to it
6. We insert the repair kit into the resulting handle and put it on the distributor.
We do the same with the second handle and get
Also, with the units removed, I missed the tunnel with anti-noise Barrier mastic.
Laundered and degreased first
Here's what happened:
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36:1764 70097
Transfer case with drive
|
1 - differential lock clutch fork; |
34 - intermediate shaft; |
NOTE
In order to reduce the noise level, the manufacturer has been installing transfer cases with fine-modular gears on Niva cars since 2002. Production of transfer cases with large-module gears at AvtoVAZ has been discontinued. Externally, the modernized transfer cases are no different from those previously produced and assembled are completely interchangeable with them.
The transfer case is used to change the amount of torque and distribute it between the front and rear axles. The box has two gears with gear ratios of 1,200 and 2,135. Front and rear axle They are driven constantly and are connected by an interaxle differential, which redistributes the torque between them depending on the resistance to the movement of the wheels. To increase the cross-country ability of the car, the differential can be blocked, while the front and rear drive shafts become rigidly connected to each other (their rotational speeds are equal).
The transfer case is attached to the floor of the body on two rubber-metal brackets. To adjust its position relative to the intermediate shaft flange, the holes in the brackets are made oval, and shims can be installed between them and the body. Centering the transmission is described in the section on Eliminating Transfer Case Vibration.
The body parts of the transfer case are cast from aluminum alloy and connected with studs and nuts. In the upper part of the crankcase there is a hatch closed with a stamped steel cover. The front cover is centered on the crankcase with two locating pins. There are cardboard gaskets between the covers and the crankcase (for repairs, you can use a sealant gasket instead). All shafts (including the speedometer drive shaft), as well as the gear shift and differential lock rods are sealed with oil seals. There are two holes in the front cover - a filler (it is also a control one) and a drain.
The drive shaft is mounted on two ball bearings in the seats of the front cover and crankcase. The inner race of the front bearing is sandwiched between the shoulder of the shaft and thrust ring self-locking shaft flange nut. The inner race of the rear bearing is sandwiched between the shoulder of the shaft and thrust washer nut at the rear end of the shaft. The nut is locked by pressing its edge into the grooves on the shaft. The drive shaft is fixed against axial displacement by a locating ring in a groove on the outer ring of the rear bearing and clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover.
There are two drive gears on the drive shaft. Front (large) - top gear, it rotates freely on a heat-treated shaft journal. The rear (smaller) - low gear - rotates freely on a heat-treated bushing installed on the shaft with an interference fit. The gears have two crowns. The helical (large) rims are in constant mesh with the corresponding gears of the intermediate shaft, and the gearshift clutch is connected to the spur (small) rims when the gear is switched on. The clutch moves along a hub rigidly seated on the splines of the shaft between the drive gears. In the middle position of the clutch, both gears are disengaged ("neutral") and the engine torque is not transmitted to the wheels.
The intermediate shaft is a block of two helical gears that are in constant mesh with the gears of the drive shaft. The front gear is also meshed with the driven gear, which is attached to the differential housing.
The intermediate shaft rotates in two bearings: front - roller, rear - ball. The shaft is secured against axial displacement by a locating ring in the groove in the outer ring of the rear bearing, which is clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover (just like the drive shaft). A steel drive gear of the speedometer drive is pressed into the front end of the shaft. The driven gear wheel of the speedometer drive is plastic, it is installed on a roller rotating in the bushing of the speedometer drive housing. The housing is attached to the front cover of the transfer case.
On a VAZ-21214 car with distributed fuel injection, in addition to the mechanical drive of the speedometer, a speed sensor is installed on the transfer case.
The front end of the front axle drive shaft rests on a ball bearing in the front axle drive housing, which is attached to the front cover of the transfer case. The inner ring of the bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a self-locking shaft flange nut. The bearing is secured against axial displacement by a retaining ring that fits into the groove of the front axle drive housing. The rear spline end of the shaft is connected to the drive gear of the front axle of the differential. A spur gear on the shaft serves to lock the differential. The design and installation of the rear axle drive shaft is similar, but there is no gear on it.
The differential housing is split, both parts are connected by six bolts. These bolts also attach the driven gear to the differential housing. The latter is mounted on two ball bearings. The inner ring of the front bearing is held against displacement by a spacer spring washer, which rests on the circlip in the groove of the differential housing. A groove in the outer ring of the bearing contains a locating ring sandwiched between the front transfer case cover and the front axle drive housing. Thus, the differential housing is kept from axial displacement by the front bearing; the rear bearing is not secured. On the front of the differential housing, there are slots along which the locking clutch moves. When the lock is engaged, the clutch is connected to the gear on the front axle drive shaft, connecting it to the differential housing.
The pinion axle is installed in the holes of the differential housing, held by two retaining rings. There is a spring washer under one of the rings, which prevents the axial movement of the axis of the satellites. The satellites (bevel gears) located on the axle are in constant mesh with the axle drive gears. Support washers are installed between the differential housing and the satellites. Their thickness is selected so that the axial clearance of the axle drive gears does not exceed 0.10 mm, and the torque of resistance to rotation is 14.7 N.m.
Transfer case control- manual, with a mechanical lever drive. With the rear lever, the driver shifts gears, with the front lever, he engages the differential lock. The design of the gearbox control drives is similar. The arm swings longitudinally on an axle installed in the bracket lugs in front of the transfer case. To reduce friction, plastic bushings are inserted into the hole in the lever. The lower end of the lever fits into the groove of the rod and is fixed with a curly spring. The other end of the rod is connected to the fork of the corresponding clutch (gear shift or differential lock) and is secured with a bolt. The stem at the exit from the box is sealed with a gland and protected from dust by a rubber bellows. A ball lock serves to fix the drive in the selected position - a spring-loaded ball enters the grooves on the rods. There are three of them on the gear shift rod - for "neutral", high and low gears, on the differential lock rod - two ("on" and "off"). A switch is screwed into the front axle drive cover that closes the control lamp circuit when the differential lock is turned on.
The Niva car became the first Soviet SUV to use an all-wheel drive transmission. Characteristic feature the vehicle is a center differential locking mechanism. There is an opinion among motorists that this mechanism serves to connect the front axle. But, front-wheel drive Niva is always connected. You can figure out which drive the Niva has after studying the design of this unit.
Niva drive device
The chassis of the car is made on the principle of permanent all-wheel drive - from power unit transmitted to all 4 wheels. This scheme improves the performance of the car when driving off-road, while reducing the load on the transmission parts.
The drive for the Chevrolet Niva consists of the following units:
- Gearbox.
- Transfer case.
- A pair of driving and cardan shafts.
- Front and rear axle reducers.
The transfer case is designed to distribute the torque between the drive axles vehicle... The car is equipped with a two-speed "razdatka", which provides:
- stable movement of the machine when driving at low speed in the mode of increased engine speed;
- the distribution of power between the driving axles, depending on the adhesion to the road surface.
Differential is one of essential elements transmissions. Its main purpose is to distribute the tractive effort, and, if necessary, to ensure the rotation of two consumers with different angular speeds. In drive transmission Chevrolet niva three differentials are installed:
- One for each axle (interwheel) - enable the wheels of one axle to rotate at different speeds.
- The third (interaxle action) - transfers power from the power unit to both axles of the vehicle. It also allows the shafts to operate at different angular speeds, depending on the operating conditions, which significantly improves handling.
A pair of cardan shafts (CV joint or cross design) provide a connection between the transfer case and the drive axle gearboxes. Both shafts of the car have the same device - they are interchangeable.
The front and rear axles transmit the force from the transfer case to the drive wheels through the outer and inner angular speed joints.
The principle of operation of all-wheel drive on the Chevrolet Niva
In normal mode, the Chevrolet Niva works in high gear with an unlocked differential. Torque is transmitted from the power unit, through the gearbox and intermediate shaft, to the two-stage transfer case gearbox. The center differential is installed in the “hand-out” housing. It links the front and rear axles, allowing them to rotate at different speeds, depending on road conditions and directions of movement.
How does four-wheel drive work on a Niva with a locked differential
With all-wheel drive engaged, both cardan shaft are fixed with a blocking clutch. This contributes to an even transmission of traction to both axles of the vehicle. Due to this, the cross-country ability of the car increases, but the handling deteriorates.
Tip: It is not recommended to use the blocking mode on roads with good grip, as this will lead to accelerated tire wear, increase the load on parts and transmission units, and also increase fuel consumption.
How to turn on four-wheel drive
Since the drive on the Niva is constantly full, the question of how to enable all-wheel drive on the Chevrolet Niva means how to enable the center differential lock.
You need to use blocking in the following cases:
- when driving on difficult terrain where there is a danger of wheel slip;
- when there is a lack of engine thrust;
- when driving on a road covered with snow or ice.
Important: Blocking is useless when hanging the car diagonally, when one wheel on different axles starts slipping. It's connected with design feature transmissions. In this case, you need to act according to the situation - undermine or pour under the suspended wheels.
The main component of the axle locking mechanism is the transfer case. The transfer case is controlled by one six-position lever. Longitudinal travel provides high and low gear rows. Transverse - is responsible for blocking the center differential. When the lever is in lock mode, the yellow icon on the instrument panel lights up. There are no synchronizers in the design of the transfer case, therefore, when you try to turn on the speed range or blocking, the gears stand tooth to tooth. To switch, you just need to move the car forward or backward and then everything will switch.
VAZ 21213 "Niva" is one of the most successful and significant developments for the Volga Automobile Plant. We can say that "Niva" is the most significant model in the entire history of the domestic automotive industry. Initially this car characterized as a passenger car with all-wheel drive 4x4. What secrets does this model hide, what is under the hood and how long has it existed? About all this and not only - further in our article.
Production history
Serial production of the VAZ "Niva" 21213 began in 1977. The most eminent design engineers of the USSR were involved in the development of this SUV. Probably, it was the cohesion of all the actions of the design bureau workers that made it possible to create a car characterized by high cross-country ability, light weight and unpretentious maintenance.
VAZ "Niva" 21213 is the first car in the history of the domestic automotive industry, which was created specifically for off-road driving, traveling to the most inaccessible places, as well as for fishing and hunting trips. All this was facilitated not only by the four-wheel drive and a powerful gasoline engine at that time, but also by the practical layout of the body - the folding rear seat made it possible to place various household goods weighing up to several hundred kilograms inside the Niva.
Domestic Range Rover?
What unites the domestic with the British "Rover"? At first glance, absolutely nothing. However, one has only to take a closer look at the technical part, and everything will become clear. The fact is that the Niva used a non-disconnectable drive on all four wheels with a transfer case and a center differential lock. This is exactly what the British Range Rover had in the 70s. Thanks to such equipment, the domestic SUV could easily overcome fords, ravines and other off-road terrain. At that time, the new Soviet jeep had no analogues in terms of cross-country ability and comfort.
About the body of an SUV
It is worth saying that initially VAZ "Niva" 21213 was not all-metal. The first experimental modifications of the SUV in question had an open body, the roof of which was covered with a tarpaulin (such a convertible off-road). However, only models with a solid metal body, which we now see on the streets, entered serial production.
Equipment and comfort
At first glance, VAZ "Niva" 21213 is the Volga analogue of the Ural UAZ 469 model. Yes, by driving performance and cross-country ability is almost like Siamese twins, but inside they are completely different. The front row of seats - with head restraints, the backrest is adjustable in length and angle, the rear row folds down to increase luggage space. By order of "Niva" was completed with a washer and a cleaner rear window, as well as an electric window heater. By today's standards, the equipment of the Volga SUV is almost ascetic, but in the 70s such luxurious things were not even dreamed of.
Soul mates!
One of the most notable features of this car was that the bulk of the parts and assemblies were "transferred" from the passenger models of the same VAZ (mainly "six"). So, on the basis of Soviet engineers, the engine, rear axle and gearbox were designed.
VAZ "Niva" 21213: technical characteristics
Initially, the car was equipped with a 4-cylinder carburetor engine volume of 1.6 liters. Then there were new modifications, as a result of which a 1.3-liter engine was added to the line of power plants, but it was not particularly popular with motorists.
As for the gearbox, the Niva was equipped with a four-speed manual transmission with synchronizers in forward gear. A little later, the SUV began to be equipped with a more advanced transmission - 5 steps. Do not forget about the transfer case, which allowed the SUV to overcome any off-road conditions. Two-stage "razdatka" with center differential had a forced lock. consisted of rear propeller shafts and front axles as well as an intermediate shaft.
The suspension also had its own technical features... The front was independent, on transverse swinging arms with hydraulic shock absorbers, springs and an anti-roll bar, which prevented the car from overturning when cornering. Rear suspension- dependent, with coil springs, one transverse rod and four longitudinal. Like the front, it was equipped with several hydraulic shock absorbers.
The first modernization of a domestic SUV
Strange as it may seem, but the first modernized model of the "Niva" went into mass production only 16 years later. Moreover, in the technical part of the car, practically nothing has changed - all the parts and assemblies of the 1977 model! The exception was the new internal combustion engine, but about it a little later.
The main changes affected only external appearance"Niva". The new modification features a longer body and slightly modified rear brake lights. By the way, the trunk lid was now only opened from the passenger compartment. The bumper remains metallic, but is now painted a light gray. In general, the exterior of the car does not differ in particular refinement and steepness. However, today's off-road tuning VAZ 21213 ("Niva"), which consists in the installation of snorkels, new disks and other units, allows you to significantly modernize appearance car.
Inside, the changes were also minimal - the seats and dashboard became similar to the "Ladovsky" (from VAZ 2108). And what do the owners say? According to reviews, "Niva" 21213 after the modernization has become more comfortable, however, the old shortcomings (distortions of the back and constant noise inside), the designers still could not avoid.
And now about the technical part. Upgraded version"Niva" from the beginning of 1993 is equipped with a new gasoline engine with an increased working volume - up to 1.7 liters. For the first time on an SUV was applied contactless system ignition. The carburetor has also been changed. Improved brake system... The main gear of the checkpoint now has ratio 3.9. The muffler has also undergone minor changes. Now its body is not welded, as before, but rolled (like the "Lada" of the eighth model).
As practice shows, new improvements in ICE system and transmissions made it possible to significantly reduce fuel consumption on the VAZ "Niva" 21213 SUV. So, for a “hundred” a car spends about 13 liters in the city and up to 11 liters on the highway.
Export versions of the "Niva" had central fuel injection, were equipped with a non-disconnectable wheel drive with a center differential and a "razdatka" with a lowering row. At the request of the customer, the car could be equipped with a French diesel engine from "Peugeot" with a working volume of 1.9 liters. But, unfortunately, these were only isolated cases.
Conclusion
Despite the fact that today there are many competitors for the "Niva" 2121, this SUV has still been, is and will be the best friend of hunters, fishermen and just off-road enthusiasts. Due to the almost complete absence of electronics, the VAZ 2121 is, perhaps, the only jeep that can easily conquer any section of the road (with the exception of its Ural brothers, the UAZ brand).
Test Drive
What is permanent four-wheel drive?
And then why is there a lever in the field " differential lock"? The answer is for driving on really bad roads and also in the complete absence of those. After all, the presence of three differentials (two axles and an interaxle one) means that it is enough to lose grip on one wheel (mud, ice, hanging in the air) as it immediately starts to rotate at a quadruple speed and all the other wheels will stand (although the grip on them can to be good). The locked center differential no longer transmits equal moments, but equal speeds - thus already two wheels will always transmit moment, one on each axle. And the car will stop only if they both lose traction - for example, when hanging diagonally (two wheels diagonally on hills and the remaining two are hanging in the air) or when one side falls into a ditch or snow. A further improvement in cross-country ability is possible when the axle differentials are also blocked, but unfortunately there is no such serial version for the cornfield, only a variety of home-made additions (up to tightly brewing one of the differentials - then the car completely loses its ability to drive normally on the roads).
Niva is a tank! But light and shallow
Namely - the field is still a compromise between road car and an SUV. Of course, you can ride it on Everest and storm the expanses of the Siberian taiga - but it's better not to do that. Have pity on the technique and it will live much longer. This is not a military Ural, it is impossible to load 10 tons on it and jump from a cliff of 5 meters - the suspension is still almost from a classic Zhiguli, although it is reinforced. You should not dive after the T-80 tank into the ford either, the factory depth of the ford to be overcome is only 60 cm (and it is achieved without special training only with extremely slow movement, otherwise it will splatter and stall, and the fan can be turned off and the electrician can be burned). And in general, you don't have to assume that now you can do everything and you will go everywhere - no, with this approach you will just sit much further and deeper than, for example, on the same classics.
But on the roads of a state that is very below average, the cornfield drives quite nothing. A grader and a country road, a soggy collective farm track or a river bank - these are the places where you can drive in the field calmly, at a speed determined solely by the wishes and skills of the driver, and the car will not let you down. You will not fly away in a turn due to the demolition of the only drive axle controlled by it, and you will not feel that you are simply carried sideways as if on rear wheel drive... Even in comparison with the standard 4 * 4 on a field in such conditions, it is much better to drive - you can go through turns by rolling in and not sliding with all four wheels. You will not drown in a puddle 10 cm deep and a pit of the same size will not require your head to poke through the ceiling.
Transfer case and low gear
And this is a handout. Transfer case if officially. A device that from one shaft coming out of the box (the most common, practically does not differ from 2107) makes two - for both bridges.
One of the levers controls the low gear. In fact, this is an additional gearbox with a ratio of the order of 1: 2 included after the box. That is, where you had the 4th (direct) transmission, something like the 2nd is obtained, where the 2nd is the 1st, and where the 1st there is something even lower, even slower, but with twice the effort. It is used for two purposes - firstly, when there is not enough engine torque in the 1st gear of the upper row (1c) - on the off-road or when pulling a heavy trailer with a tug (a 1n niva can easily move a trolleybus from its place and pull it along a flat surface - and this is, by the way, 8 tons - although, of course, without much agility). And the second goal is to reduce the speed below 1st gear in conditions when there is enough torque, but there is no control speed. For example, when maneuvering (entering a narrow place or into a parking lot), driving in a very sluggish traffic jam (where everyone does nothing but pull the clutch - the engine does not pull at less than 1000 rpm and even stalls, and there is no speed corresponding to these revolutions in the traffic jam). It is very convenient then to turn on the lower row and move calmly without burning out the clutch and without jumping forward at each start-stop.
You can turn off the bottom row without stopping the car. As on a conventional gearbox, only unsynchronized (you may have heard "experienced stories" about all sorts of double squeezes and the "grinding of gears"? That was all when the main boxes were unsynchronized). That is, with the selection of revolutions on the shafts and a neat and rather slow engagement of the gears. The plant prohibits turning on the bottom row so only by stopping the car. But practically when driving at a very low speed (up to 5 km / h - the speed of a pedestrian), this is quite possible if you practice a little, and without the terrible grunts in the box. Just in no case try to crush the gear - if it crunches and does not climb, then the application of effort can only turn off the transfer case with subsequent expensive repairs.
The second lever is the control of the above-described center differential. Forward - normal mode, reverse - locked, for difficult road conditions. Attention - enabling and especially disabling this blocking is not always possible. It may simply "not go" - if the shafts are not in the right position, or "bite" if an effort is applied to this blocking (turning on the road with noticeable wheel traction). Drive a little forward (and maybe back) and the lever will move to the desired position without much difficulty. Again, do not try to suppress the inclusion - if it already crunches, then the shafts are turning relative to each other and the inclusion is impossible. Stop or go straight ahead (when there is no path difference between the bridges). When the lock is on, a yellow light comes on on the dashboard - this is to remind you that in this mode to drive on good roads it is forbidden.
I am a steep wide jeeper - I turned on the second bridge and drive!
These are the ones we treat: Once again, you cannot drive on a field with a locked differential on good roads... The distributor box, gearboxes and cardan shafts will crumble, tires will quickly erode and there is a noticeable risk of going outside when cornering but they have not yet grasped the essence of the phenomena. For all the arguments about the moment, differentials or razdatka they have a reasonable, parity answer: "Cho, this jyp, fuck!")
The only mode when the inclusion of blocking is justified when driving on more or less decent roads is on a grader. When there are no turns, there is speed (the car quite allows you to drive 100 or more on a completely average collective farm grader - be careful only with the brakes, they move away from lateral vibration and one or two presses are required to bring the pads into place) and every cobblestone, bump or pit strives turn the car around the vertical axis (along the course in the sense). Niva is a short-wheelbase car and therefore side impacts on it have a very significant effect on the course. Enabling the blocking allows you to slightly reduce the effect (at the cost of naturally reducing the resource and increasing gasoline consumption - slippage when cornering and small deviations will not disappear anywhere).
So when to include what?
The basic rule is to turn it on first and then go to the assault. If you can see an endless swamp ahead with traces of the Kirovets tractor going into the abyss, then you need to stop, turn on 1n and the lock, look around: and turn into a detour. The cornfield practically cannot overcome such obstacles, but it sits in them thoroughly, so pushing it out by the crew is unrealistic.
If there is a dry but uneven and generally dubious road ahead (lane), then it is usually enough to turn on the lower row. And move forward according to the situation - where exactly 2n (this is approximately the same as 1c) and can even be up to 5v (this is something between 2v and 3v - you can accelerate up to 80 kilometers), where there is a hillock - reducing the speed and passing down to 1N.
If there is a slippery and highly questionable area ahead (mud, snow, puddle, ford), then stop and turn on the lock and the lower row. Then it may be too late - if you wait until the moment when the car starts to stop for natural reasons (lack of momentum or wheels slip), then there is a noticeable chance of not moving from the spot anymore.
And how is it in the city?
Fine. I sit high and look far away, I am not afraid of hatches with tram rails, and a snowdrift at the entrance to the courtyard is not a terrible and terrible insurmountable obstacle. The doors are just not enough - it is not very convenient to carry passengers in the field, there are problems with the entrance and exit (as on all two-doors). In terms of dynamics in urban conditions (speed 40-90 km) it is quite at the level of the rest of the stream, in terms of ease of control, etc. - a Lada like a Lada. On the other hand, it is durable (of course, you should not go to the frontal line, but small collisions often do not even leave traces - with such and such bumpers), load-carrying (there is no problem to take half a ton of cargo at all, if only it fits inside), short (essential when parking). The turning radius is only larger, but what to do is pay for the front-wheel drive of huge 16 "wheels.
Will it bring you ...?
Will take you. As well as bringing, the carrying capacity and cargo capacity of the cornfield is very impressive. Rigid energy-intensive suspension springs are able to keep the car well away from the travel stops even if passengers are loaded there according to the principle "as much as it will fit" or the load "as much as fit". Well, unless, of course, you do not load it with bricks, bags of cement or ingots of gold. She almost does not feel 200 kg of load (and in a classic Zhiguli, mud flaps rub on the asphalt if you push so much into the trunk, and the spars burst).
Folding is provided for the transportation of goods in the field rear seat... The backrest forward and then it, together with the pillow, forward again. Unlike 2121, for a complete cleaning of the seat, it is necessary to flip the hinges of its attachment - this is described in the instructions.
But there is also a second option for folding the seat, which is not described in the instructions and is generally little known. It turns out that the rear Niva seat can be folded out completely horizontally! To do this, you need to turn it out - pull the loops between the pillow and the backrest forward and upward, thereby placing the pillow vertically up and the back horizontally back. Then push the backrest under the brackets of its attachment for the rear wheel arches and lower everything down. It turns out an almost flat surface from front seat(and even the front panel if you expand passenger seat- just pull out the headrest) before back door... Two and a half meters - more than in the Volga "shed" (her right seat is flush with the back seat). And decently in height, up to the roof. You can carry something long or pack up for the night in nature.
