Niva 2121 inclusion of all-wheel drive. Niva permanent four-wheel drive. how it works and where it will eat. So when to include what

Test Drive

What is permanent four-wheel drive?

And then why is there a lever in the field " differential lock"? The answer is for driving on really bad roads and also in the complete absence of those. After all, the presence of three differentials (two axle and center) means that it is enough to lose traction on one wheel (mud, ice, hanging in the air) as it is right there will begin to rotate at a quadruple speed and all the other wheels will stand (although the grip on them can be good). The locked center differential no longer transmits equal moments, but equal speeds - thus already two wheels will always transmit torque, one on each axle. And the car will stop only if they both lose traction - for example, when hanging diagonally (two wheels diagonally on elevations and the remaining two are hanging in the air) or when one side falls into a ditch or snow. but unfortunately for the cornfield there is no such serial version, only a variety of amateur finishing touches (vpl until one of the differentials is tightly brewed - then the car completely loses its ability to drive normally on the roads).

Niva is a tank! But light and shallow

Namely, the niva is still a compromise between a road car and an SUV. Of course, you can ride it on Everest and storm the expanses of the Siberian taiga - but it's better not to do that. Have pity on the technique and it will live much longer. This is not a military Ural, it is impossible to load 10 tons on it and jump from a cliff of 5 meters - the suspension is still almost from a classic Zhiguli, albeit reinforced. You should not dive into the ford after the T-80 tank either, the factory depth of the ford to be overcome is only 60 cm (and it is achieved without special preparation only with extremely slow movement, otherwise it will splatter and stall, and the fan can be turned off and the electrician can be burned). And in general, you do not need to assume that now you can do everything and you will go everywhere - no, with this approach you will just sit much further and deeper than, for example, on the same classics.

But on the roads of a state that is very below average, the cornfield drives quite nothing. A grader and a country road, a soggy collective farm track or a river bank - these are the places where you can drive calmly in the field, at a speed determined solely by the wishes and skills of the driver, and the car will not let you down. You will not fly away in a corner due to the demolition of the only driven axle, which is also controlled, and you will not feel that you are simply carried sideways like on a rear wheel drive. Even in comparison with the standard 4 * 4 on the field in such conditions, it is much better to drive - you can go through turns by rolling in and not sliding with all four wheels. You will not drown in a puddle 10 cm deep and a pit of the same size will not require your head to poke through the ceiling.

Transfer and low gear

And this is a handout. Transfer case if officially. A device that from one shaft coming out of the box (the most common, practically does not differ from 2107) makes two - on both bridges.

One of the levers controls the low gear. In fact, this is an additional gearbox with a ratio of the order of 1: 2 included after the box. That is, where you had the 4th (direct) transmission, something like the 2nd is obtained, where the 2nd is the 1st, and where the 1st there is something even lower, even slower but with twice as much effort. It is used for two purposes - firstly, when there is not enough engine torque in the 1st gear of the upper row (1c) - on the off-road or when pulling a heavy trailer with a tug (a niva by 1n can easily move a trolleybus from its place and pull it along a flat surface - and this is, by the way, 8 tons - although, of course, without much playfulness). And the second goal is to reduce the speed below 1st gear in conditions when there is enough torque, but there is no control speed. For example, when maneuvering (entering a narrow place or into a parking lot), driving in a very sluggish traffic jam (where everyone does nothing but pull the clutch - the engine does not pull at less than 1000 rpm and even stalls, and there is no speed corresponding to these revolutions in the traffic jam). It is very convenient then to turn on the lower row and move calmly without burning out the clutch and without jumping forward at each start-stop.

You can turn off the bottom row without stopping the car. As on a conventional gearbox only unsynchronized (maybe you heard "experienced stories" about all sorts of double squeezes and "grinding of gears"? That was all when the main gearboxes were unsynchronized). That is, with the selection of revolutions on the shafts and a neat and rather slow engagement of the gears. The plant prohibits turning on the bottom row so only by stopping the car. But practically when driving at a very low speed (up to 5 km / h - the speed of a pedestrian), this is quite possible if you practice a little, and without the terrible grunts in the box. Just in no case try to crush the gear - if it crunches and does not climb, then the application of effort can only turn off the transfer case with subsequent expensive repairs.

The second lever is the control of the above-described center differential. Forward - normal, reverse - locked, for difficult road conditions. Attention - enabling and especially disabling this blocking is not always possible. It may simply "not go" - if the shafts are not in the right position, or "bite" if an effort is applied to this blocking (turning on the road with noticeable wheel traction). Drive a little forward (and maybe back) and the lever will move to the desired position without much difficulty. Again, do not try to suppress the inclusion - if it already crunches, then the shafts are turning relative to each other and the inclusion is impossible. Stop or go straight ahead (when there is no path difference between the bridges). When the lock is on, a yellow light comes on on the instrument panel - this is to remind you that you cannot drive on good roads in this mode.

I am a steep wide jeeper - I turned on the second bridge and drive!

These are the ones we treat: Once again, you cannot drive in a field with a locked differential on good roads... The razdatka, gearboxes and cardan shafts will crumble, the tires will quickly erode and there is a noticeable risk of going outside at a turn but they have not yet grasped the essence of the phenomena. For all the arguments about the moment, differentials or razdatka they have a reasonable, parity answer: "Cho, this jyp, fuck!")

The only mode when the inclusion of blocking is justified when driving on more or less decent roads is on a grader. When there are no turns, there is speed (the car quite allows you to drive 100 or more on a completely average collective farm grader - be careful only with the brakes, they move away from lateral vibration and one or two presses are required to bring the pads into place) and every cobblestone, bump or yamina strives turn the car around the vertical axis (in the direction in the sense). The Niva is a short-wheelbase car and therefore side impacts on it have a very significant effect on the course. Turning on the lock allows you to slightly reduce the effect (at the cost of naturally reducing the resource and increasing gasoline consumption - slippage when cornering and small deviations will not disappear anywhere).

So when to include what?

The basic rule is to turn it on first and then go to the assault. If you can see an endless swamp ahead with traces of the Kirovets tractor going into the abyss, then you need to stop, turn on 1n and the lock, look around: and turn into a detour. The cornfield practically cannot overcome such obstacles, but it sits in them thoroughly, so pushing it out by the crew is unrealistic.

If there is a dry but uneven and generally questionable road ahead (lane), then it is usually enough to turn on the lower row. And move forward according to the situation - where exactly 2n (this is approximately the same as 1c) and can even be up to 5v (this is something between 2v and 3v - you can accelerate up to 80 kilometers), where there is a hillock - reducing the speed and passing down to 1N.

If there is a slippery and highly questionable area ahead (mud, snow, puddle, ford), then stop and turn on the lock and the lower row. Then it may be too late - if you wait until the moment when the car starts to stop for natural reasons (lack of momentum or wheels slip), then there is a noticeable chance of not moving from the spot anymore.

And how is it in the city?

Fine. I sit high and look far away, I am not afraid of hatches with tram rails, and a snowdrift at the entrance to the courtyard is not a terrible and terrible insurmountable obstacle. The doors are just not enough - it is not very convenient to carry passengers in the field, there are problems with the entrance and exit (as on all two-doors). In terms of dynamics in urban conditions (speed 40-90 km), it is quite at the level of the rest of the flow, in terms of ease of control, etc. - a Lada like a Lada. On the other hand, it is durable (of course, you should not go to the frontal line, but small collisions often do not even leave traces - with such and such bumpers), load-carrying (there is no problem to take half a ton of cargo at all, if only it fits inside), short (essential when parking). The turning radius is only larger, but what to do is pay for the front-wheel drive of huge 16 "wheels.

Will it bring you ...?

Will take you. As well as bringing, the carrying capacity and cargo capacity of the cornfield is very impressive. Rigid energy-intensive suspension springs are able to keep the car well away from the travel stops even if passengers are loaded there according to the principle "as much as it will fit" or the load "as much as fit". Well, unless, of course, you do not load it with bricks, bags of cement or ingots of gold. She almost does not feel 200 kg of load (and in the classic Zhiguli already mud flaps rub on the asphalt if you push so much into the trunk, and the spars burst).

For transportation of goods in the field, the rear seat is folded down. The backrest forward and then it, together with the pillow, forward again. Unlike 2121, for a complete cleaning of the seat, it is necessary to flip the hinges of its attachment - this is described in the instructions.

But there is also a second option for folding the seat, which is not described in the instructions and is generally little known. It turns out that the Niva rear seat can be folded out completely horizontally! To do this, turn it out - pull the loops between the pillow and the backrest forward and upward, thereby placing the pillow vertically upward and the backrest horizontally backward. Then push the backrest under the brackets of its attachment for the rear wheel arches and lower everything down. It turns out an almost flat surface from the front seat (and even the front panel if you unfold the passenger seat - you just need to pull out the headrest) to the rear door. Two and a half meters - more than in the Volga-"shed" (her right seat is flush with the rear one does not fold out). And in height decently, up to the roof. You can carry something long or fit for the night in nature.

All off-road enthusiasts purchase all-wheel drive off-road vehicles to overcome various obstacles. Four-wheel drive is a system for distributing speed and power along two axles of the vehicle. Cars equipped with all-wheel drive have permanent all-wheel drive or plug-in. To ensure the transmission of angular speed to all wheels, a transfer case is installed in cars of this type. There will be a further article about her.

What is a transfer case in a car

The transfer case is the mechanism that distributes the torque from the engine to the drive mechanisms, that is, the differentials. Most often, the transfer case is used in off-road vehicles, as well as in some sports cars, which increases their stability on the road.

In SUVs, the transfer case performs the following functions:

1. Distributes the moment between the axles, which ensures the best cross-country ability of the car, and in this way the full potential of the engine is realized. The possibility of such a phenomenon as power circulation is automatically eliminated.
2. Increases torque to the drive wheels by using a downshift, this helps drivers overcome serious off-road obstacles.
3. Provides a stable position and movement of the car at low speed when all the torque is involved.

What are the transfer cases

Transfer cases can be divided into several types:

1. By switching positions:
   1. Non-switchable. A car with permanent all-wheel drive, without the ability to turn it off;
   2. Connectable. In this case, if necessary, you can connect an auxiliary bridge, while one of the axes will always be the leading one, the other is connected;
   3. Equal. With such a transfer case, any axle can be driven, depending on the choice.
2. By control system:
   1. Automatic transfer control. All changes take place automatically using a torque converter or servo drive. All decisions about the need for any switching are made by the electronic control unit. Such a system can also be called electronic all-wheel drive. The main plus is that the electronics correctly distribute the torque between all wheels. And the disadvantage is that it all depends on the electronics and hydraulics, and such a system also adds extra weight to the car.
   2. Semi-automatic. The main difference from the automatic machine is that the driver can intervene in the all-wheel drive control at any time through various buttons on the panel. This allows the driver to independently choose the driving mode depending on the situation and need, namely, connect or disconnect the all-wheel drive at a certain moment.
   3. Manual or mechanical. The main governing body of the mechanism is a lever brought into the car salon near the gear lever.

      The main advantage of such a system is its reliability, as well as the absence of the risk of failure of the electronics. But the downside is that you cannot switch modes on the go, for this you first have to completely stop.

Handout on Niva 21213: basic malfunctions, and their elimination

Niva has excellent off-road potential, and that is why it becomes an indispensable assistant when going out into the wilderness. But, as with any car with a domestic SUV, problems can also occur.

Like any mechanism, the distribution box also fails, and by the following symptoms it can be easily determined:

1. Delays when turning on the front axle, turning it off abruptly. This situation can only happen in the case of early modifications with a demultiplier. All Niva cars have permanent four-wheel drive, but many craftsmen upgrade their cars, after which they have the ability to turn off the front axle.
2. Constant overheating under load. A possible reason will be a low oil level, if the reason is in it, then the oil must be added, if not, then this is caused by increased friction of the parts.
3. Increased oil consumption for the gearbox. The reason is any leakage due to wear of the oil seals, loose crankcase bolts, or simply an incompletely tightened drain plug.
4. Looseness of the transfer case and gearbox mountings. Leads to strong vibrations in the passenger compartment. May be associated with fastening mechanisms or centering the transfer case.
5. Vibrations can also be caused by damaged transmission mounts, this issue is solved by simply replacing broken parts.
6. Looseness of the flange bolts, as well as its wear. It is solved by replacing or tightening the bolts, in the worst case - by purchasing an intermediate shaft. This breakdown leads to noise and vibration at first only when starting from a place of the car, later it turns into a constant hum at a speed of over 80 kilometers per hour.
7. Seized propeller shaft joints. Breakage occurs due to the drying out of the elements; in order to eliminate it, you will have to renew the lubricant with the help of a syringe. If the re-injection did not help, then you will have to replace the whole part.
8. Similarly, the CV joint can jam, this is either due to a lack of lubrication, or due to deformation. In case of severe wear, you will have to buy the entire intermediate shaft, if it was only about the lubricant, you can simply replace it.
9. Cardan backlash is solved by replacing.
10. Differential wear can lead to noise and crackling when cornering, only replacing the differential will correct this cause.
11. Satellites and their obstructed movement often become a possible cause of cornering noise. This is due to burrs that can be removed with a file.
12. Often, it is not the transfer case itself that fails, but the lever, rod and fork, which impede full control of the unit. Also, these parts can simply stick, for this they must be cleaned of dirt or, in case of severe wear, replaced.

How to remove the distributor from the Niva

There is nothing complicated in removing and repairing a demultiplier, this procedure can be carried out by any person who has the right tool. The main difficulty of this car is that the transfer case is not attached directly to the gearbox itself, like in modern SUVs, in Niva they are connected using intermediate shafts.

The dismantling of the unit itself is quite simple; for this, the car is driven into the inspection pit. All levers in the passenger compartment are set to neutral. Then the plastic cover is removed from the tunnel and all covers and handles are removed. Then the hatch is unscrewed, which opens access to the distributor. The speedometer sensor is also removed, after which the driveshafts are disconnected. At the end, it remains to unscrew several fasteners of the box itself, and then remove it. After the mechanism is removed, you can proceed to disassemble it for further replacement of worn parts. In general, the installation is carried out in the reverse order, but it is worth paying attention to centering the transfer case with the gearbox, that is, it is necessary to convince the flange of the gearbox drive shaft to be connected to the transfer case intermediate shaft, after which you can tighten the mounting bolts of the range itself.

Do-it-yourself Niva 21213 handout repair (video)

Outcome

Niva has permanent four-wheel drive, and the car itself is inexpensive. And that is why, in terms of reliability and price, it is the best choice for outdoor enthusiasts. Maintenance of an all-wheel drive for this car will cost symbolic money, nevertheless, the design of the mechanism itself has a fairly high reliability for such a price.

Every decent SUV should have a transfer case in its design. VAZ 2121 Niva, as a decent SUV, also has RK on board, but not all owners use it correctly, and we are not talking about the device. In order to at least slightly dispel the aura of mystery on the distributor, we tried to describe its structure and features of operation.

Handout Niva - device and scheme

Everything that you see in the drawing is called a transfer case with a range multiplier. It is easier to understand how it works if you consider its purpose and features of its work.

Regardless, we have presented an open source diagram that fully describes the transfer case design.

Why such difficulties? Build a second gearbox to boost output torque? Exactly. Everything will become clearer when we consider the purpose of the VAZ 2121 transfer case. Everything seems to be simple - the transfer case is needed in order to correctly distribute the torque between the driving axles of the car. But not only for this. Another important function of the transfer case is to increase the output torque. Scientifically, this is called a demultiplier.

That is, such important functions of the handout can be distinguished:

• distribution of torque between the axles of the vehicle;
• center differential lock;
• the ability to disable one of the driving axles;
• the ability to mount a power take-off to ensure the operation of additional equipment;
• increasing torque on the driving wheels by engaging a low gear.

The order of work of the distributor VAZ 2121

When the vehicle is driven on a flat dry road, the traction of the wheels is satisfactory and there is no need to use the additional functions of the RC. The rotation of the drive shaft is transmitted equally to the front and rear axles. Thus, the amount of torque transmitted to each of the axles directly depends on the load on each of them.

... and a gasket.

We remove the rear axle drive shaft from the rear cover and disassemble it in the same way as the front crankcase shaft of the VAZ 2131.

Rear axle drive shaft parts and rear cover.

Using the "13" key, unscrew the two nuts securing the gear lever bracket to the transfer case housing ...

… And remove the gearshift bracket with the lever.

Disconnect the gear shift lever from the bracket in the same way as removing the differential lock lever.
Having finally unscrewed the nut of the drive shaft flange, ...

… Remove the flange.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew three nuts ...

… And remove the drive shaft front bearing cover.

The connection is sealed with a gasket.

Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the four nuts securing the hatch.

Remove the hatch and gasket.

Remove the lever spring from the shift fork rod and move the rod cover.

Inside the hatch with a 10-ring spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the plug to the rod.

To prevent the ball and spring of the retainer from jumping out, ...

… Cover the hole with your finger and gradually pull the stem out with pliers.

In this case, the ball of the retainer falls out through the side opening of the crankcase.

Remove the retainer spring with tweezers.

Pulling the rod further, remove the shift clutch fork ...

... and a spacer plastic sleeve.

We take out the stock.

The rods of the differential lock fork and the gear shift fork of the VAZ 2121 are sealed with rubber rings. Let's show their removal using the example of the gear shift fork ring.

Prying off with a screwdriver, ...

… Take out the rubber sealing ring.

We unlock the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts of the VAZ 2131.

With a spanner wrench "27" we unscrew one of the nuts, keeping the shafts from turning by the other nut with a wrench or a head of the same dimension.

Remove the nut and washer.

Insert the propeller shaft mounting bolts into the holes of the flange and put the flange on the splines of the drive shaft of the transfer case of the VAZ 2121.

We unscrew the second nut, keeping the shafts from turning with a mounting blade inserted between the bolts.

Remove the nut and washer. Remove the drive shaft flange.

Remove the drive shaft front bearing thrust washer.

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the three remaining nuts securing the front cover of the transfer case.

The remaining nuts of this cover were removed when removing the drive shaft front bearing cover, front axle drive housing and gear lever bracket.

Remove the front cover of the transfer case of the VAZ 2131 with a differential.

Remove the gasket from the transfer case crankcase studs.

Using the pliers, remove the adjusting ring of the front bearing of the differential housing.

Disconnect the Niva 2121 differential and the transfer case front cover.

We take out (or knock out through a drift from soft metal) the outer ring of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft from the seat of the front cover.

Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the front bearing of the differential housing ...

... and take it off.

Remove the spring washer.

We install a suitable stop for the puller screw in the hole of the front case of the Niva 2131 differential ...

... and a three-armed puller ...

… We press the front bearing.

If necessary, remove the rear bearing of the Niva 2121 in the same way.
We put marks on the front and rear differential housings so as not to disturb the balance of the unit during assembly.
Clamping the differential case in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...

… With a 17 ”spanner wrench, unscrew the six bolts securing the driven gear, front and rear differential housings.

Disconnect the front and rear differential housings.

In this case, the driven gear remains on the front housing.

We knock it off the body through a soft metal drift.

Disconnect the driven gear and the front differential housing.

Remove the support washer from the front axle drive gear ...

... and take out the gear itself.

Using pliers, unclench the locking ring of the satellite axis and remove it.

Remove the Niva 2131 satellite axle spring washer.

Hooking with the pliers on the other retaining ring, we take out the axis of the satellites.

We take out the support washer and satellite from the rear differential housing.

Taking out the second satellite and its washer, we remove the rear axle drive gear.

To remove the input and intermediate shafts ...

… With pliers, remove the locating ring of the rear bearing of the drive shaft.

Similarly, dismantle the intermediate shaft rear bearing ring.

We take out the drive shaft from the crankcase ...

... and the intermediate shaft.

We clamp the spline part of the drive shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads, ...

... and, hooking the puller paws on the gear shift clutch, ...

… Remove the rear bearing, bushing, low gear and clutch.

Remove the clutch hub and top gear from the shaft.

Press the front bearing of the drive shaft with a puller.

Remove the rollers from the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a screwdriver ...

... and remove the separator.

We clamp the intermediate shaft of the Niva 2121 in a vice with soft metal jaw pads.

Prying with two mounting blades, we press the inner ring of the front bearing ...

... and take it off.

We remove the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft in the same way as the front bearing of the drive shaft.
We assemble the transfer case of the Niva 2131 in the reverse order.
When assembling the center differential, we combine the marks on its housings.
We install the spring washer on the axis of the satellites from the side of the blind hole at the end of the axis.
Press on with suitable pipe sections ...

... the inner race of the front intermediate shaft bearing, ...

... front axle drive shaft bearing (tube rests on the inner ring) ...

... and differential bearings.

In the same way we press on the bearing of the rear axle drive shaft, the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft, the front and rear bearings of the drive shaft.
We install the drive and intermediate shafts in the transfer case at the same time.
All gaskets are lubricated with a thin layer of silicone sealant.
Having tightened the nuts of the rear bearings of the drive and intermediate shafts to the specified torque, we lock the nuts by pressing their collars into the grooves of the shanks of the shafts.
After assembly, fill in oil (see Oil change).

Stud attachment point:

1 - crankcase;
2 - bushing;
3 - the rest of the lug;
4 - hairpin

Repair of the transfer case crankcase stud fastening

At the transfer case of the Niva 2121, the right (long) boss bursts, into which a special pin is pressed, securing the box to the bracket. For repairs, you can carve a bushing out of duralumin, as shown in the figure, saw down all the ribs on the remaining part of the boss and saw off its outer diameter to fit the bushing tightly. Having installed the fastening pin in the hole, you need to press the bushing all the way and weld it around the perimeter to the box body.

Transfer case VAZ 2121, Niva 2131

• - Dispenser device
• - Features of the design of the transfer case
• - Causes of vibration in the transfer case
• - Changing the oil in the transfer case
• - Replacing the transfer case oil seals
• - Speedometer gear housing
• - Transfer case suspension bracket
• - Differential lock lamp switch
• - Removal and installation of the transfer case
• - Disassembly and assembly of the transfer case

Nodes and transmission device VAZ 2121, VAZ 2131

Service and operation of the Niva 2121 box. Instructions for the repair of the cardan, axle and wheel drive Niva 2131.

1:1094 2:10498

Today, probably, every Nivavod has heard and knows about the wonderful "know-how" - Anti-vibration handles for handouts from niva-komfort.ru
New tuning levers of the transfer case are assembled according to the type of gearshift lever. These are no longer just metal rods, but levers with "stuffing" containing antiresonant bushings, which absorb vibration and noise - as I write about them on the site.

I found references to the Shniv clutch on the Internet, then I was looking for information on this topic.

stock to be replaced

this one no longer fits

At the service station, he began to persuade the master to screw it to the car - he refused completely. He does not repair the checkpoint, and even more so, the RK, but I persuaded him. While the checkpoint was being removed / installed, this device was also screwed in the "heap" - nothing complicated. It was more surprising how I could switch the control gear before when the old levers were removed - they practically did not move on their axles at all!

The new lever went into the salon a little in the wrong place, took aim and had to remove the RK again (they had not fastened it to the checkpoint yet and did not hang the gimbals) to bend the lever "in place" - we hit the first time! (thanks to the master, he has a "diamond eye") and put everything in place.
I ran to the store and bought a rubber cover for the gearshift lever (a native detail) - it sat down very well on the base of the new RK handle, and "nailed" the bottom of the cover with a tunnel lining, setting it into one of the holes for the old levers. And the second hole was "temporarily" plugged with a piece of parallelogram.

The best part is the anti-vibration handles! When I put the wings, I didn’t think about it at all. It seemed to me that everything was standard and there was nothing like that in the fact that I put a set of bushings from the gearbox and a trimmed gearshift lever on the RK - I did just that.
As a result, I "killed several birds with one stone" at once:
- one lever on the RK while maintaining its performance;
- Smooth soft shifting like in ShNiva;
- the handle of the PK lever from the shnivy (instead of the "clown" balls);
- "anti-vibration" handle, with one instead of two.

Two years later, I learned about the proprietary miracle pens and was happy that it cost me $ 20 instead of $ 65. for the yellow "invention".

The impressions from the installation are the most positive - I advise everyone! Doing it yourself, with welding, is not difficult, and the result surpasses everything.
Well, now in more detail:

1) If you want quiet levers, you can do this:

But we will go the other way, by altering the lever according to the principle of a checkpoint or RK Niva-Chevrolet. Everyone knows that there are ready-made, yellow levers:

The price of the issue without delivery is 2000r, which is not at all budgetary. Therefore, after reading articles on D2 and NivaFAQ, I decided to do it myself:

We go to the store to look for rem. set of backstage checkpoint from the Volga or Gazelle. Everywhere they offer these boxes:

A lot of unnecessary items included

The price is 380-420 rubles per piece, taking into account that you need two, and even the pipes themselves, which are put on top on the wings. As a result, it turns out a little more than 1000 rubles, which also did not suit me and decided to go to the market.

On the market, everything is simpler and there is more choice, you can separately buy only the slide and separately only the tube without the ball (handle) and the lower elastic band (boot).
As a result, we get:

17:1901 17:2068

I will show an example on the lock lever, it has a slight bend to the left.
Before welding:

We get:

19:1184 19:1384

Lever ready

You can use the tubes of the RC levers from the Chevrolet Niva, but they are less common and more expensive.

Expenses:
- 2x Backstage checkpoint gazelle \ volga 200r
- 2x Gear lever tube classic 160r
- 2x Rem. backstage kit for gearbox VAZ 2101-07 40r

Total: 400r

Time and money were well spent, a very useful improvement in the field:
- Solves 90% of howling from handouts
- Vibration is no longer transmitted to the levers
- Soft turn-on, very similar to the checkpoint

After complete soundproofing, I noticed that a lot of noise was coming from the RK levers. On the Internet I met "tuned" handles, assembled according to the type of gearbox backstage, but the price did not suit (2t.r)! You can make such pens yourself.
We need:
1. Gear lever, 5 speed manual gearbox Gazelle lower part (devil) (3302-1702140) 2pcs.

2. VAZ gear lever
(you can use the PK Shniva lever, but I didn't find it, it's not there anywhere)

I used 1 lever from a gazelle (it is the cheapest), and the second lever from the VAZ gearbox was lying in the garage.

3. Canned backstage VAZ-2101, Volga, Gazelle 2pcs

I did everything on the removed razdatka, because I went through the box and changed the clutch

1. Cut off the excess part from the gear lever

cut one centimeter higher from the end of the constriction

2. Cut off the native RK lever at the beginning of the bend to keep the handle tilted

3. We weld the cut off parts

4. Cut the gearshift lever below 1 cm from the thickening

5. cut off the lever on the transfer case, leaving 2 cm and weld the cut gearshift lever to it

6. We insert the repair kit into the resulting handle and put it on the distributor.

We do the same with the second handle and get

Also, with the units removed, I missed the tunnel with anti-noise mastic "Barrier".

Laundered and degreased first

Here's what happened:

http://www.4wd.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=16617, https://www.drive2.ru/l/393589/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/4812485/, https://www.drive2.ru/l/2534985/

36:1764 70097

Transfer case with drive

NOTE
In order to reduce the noise level, the manufacturer has been installing transfer cases with fine-modular gears on Niva cars since 2002. Production of transfer cases with large-module gears at AvtoVAZ has been discontinued. Externally, the modernized transfer cases are no different from those previously produced and assembled are completely interchangeable with them.

The transfer case is used to change the amount of torque and distribute it between the front and rear axles. The box has two gears with gear ratios of 1,200 and 2,135. The front and rear axles are driven constantly and are connected by an interaxle differential, which redistributes the torque between them depending on the resistance to the movement of the wheels. To increase the cross-country ability of the car, the differential can be blocked, while the front and rear drive shafts become rigidly connected to each other (their rotational speeds are equal).

The transfer case is attached to the floor of the body on two rubber-metal brackets. To adjust its position relative to the intermediate shaft flange, the holes in the brackets are made oval, and shims can be installed between them and the body. Centering the transmission is described in the section Eliminating Transfer Case Vibration.

The body parts of the transfer case are cast from aluminum alloy and connected with studs and nuts. In the upper part of the crankcase there is a hatch closed with a stamped steel cover. The front cover is centered on the crankcase with two locating pins. There are cardboard gaskets between the covers and the crankcase (when repairing, you can use a sealant gasket instead). All shafts (including the speedometer drive shaft), as well as the gear shift and differential lock rods are sealed with oil seals. There are two holes in the front cover - a filler (it is also a control one) and a drain.

The drive shaft is mounted on two ball bearings in the seats of the front cover and the crankcase. The inner race of the front bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a self-locking shaft flange nut. The inner race of the rear bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a nut at the rear end of the shaft. The nut is locked by pressing its edge into the grooves on the shaft. The drive shaft is fixed against axial displacement by a locating ring in a groove on the outer ring of the rear bearing and clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover.

There are two drive gears on the drive shaft. Front (large) - top gear, it rotates freely on a heat-treated shaft journal. The rear (smaller) - low gear - rotates freely on a heat-treated bushing installed on the shaft with an interference fit. The gears have two crowns. The helical (large) rims are in constant mesh with the corresponding gears of the intermediate shaft, and the gearshift clutch is connected to the spur (small) rims when the gear is switched on. The clutch moves along a hub rigidly mounted on the splines of the shaft between the drive gears. In the middle position of the clutch, both gears are disengaged ("neutral") and the engine torque is not transmitted to the wheels.

The intermediate shaft is a block of two helical gears that are in constant mesh with the gears of the drive shaft. The front gear also meshes with the driven gear, which is fixed to the differential housing.

The intermediate shaft rotates in two bearings: front - roller, rear - ball. The shaft is secured against axial displacement by a locating ring in the groove of the outer ring of the rear bearing, which is clamped between the crankcase and the rear cover (just like the drive shaft). A steel drive gear of the speedometer drive is pressed into the front end of the shaft. The driven gear wheel of the speedometer drive is plastic, it is installed on a roller rotating in the bushing of the speedometer drive housing. The housing is fixed to the front cover of the transfer case.

On a VAZ-21214 car with distributed fuel injection, in addition to the mechanical drive of the speedometer, a speed sensor is installed on the transfer case.

The front end of the front axle drive shaft rests on a ball bearing in the front axle drive housing, which is attached to the front cover of the transfer case. The inner ring of the bearing is clamped between the shaft shoulder and the thrust washer with a self-locking shaft flange nut. The bearing is secured against axial displacement by a retaining ring that fits into the groove of the front axle drive housing. The rear spline end of the shaft is connected to the gear wheel of the front axle drive of the differential. A spur gear on the shaft serves to lock the differential. The design and installation of the rear axle drive shaft is similar, but it does not have a gear.

The differential housing is split, both parts are connected by six bolts. These bolts also attach the driven gear to the differential housing. The latter is mounted on two ball bearings. The inner ring of the front bearing is held against displacement by a spacer spring washer resting on a circlip in the groove of the differential housing. A groove in the outer ring of the bearing contains a locating ring sandwiched between the front cover of the transfer case and the drive housing of the front axle. Thus, the differential housing is kept from axial displacement by the front bearing; the rear bearing is not secured. On the front of the differential housing, there are slots along which the locking clutch moves. When the lock is engaged, the clutch is connected to the gear on the front axle drive shaft, connecting it to the differential housing.

In the holes of the differential housing there is an axle of the satellites held by two retaining rings. Under one of the rings there is a spring washer that prevents axial movement of the axis of the satellites. The satellites (bevel gears) located on the axle are in constant mesh with the axle drive gears. Support washers are installed between the differential housing and the satellites. Their thickness is selected so that the axial clearance of the axle drive gears does not exceed 0.10 mm, and the torque of resistance to rotation is 14.7 N.m.

Transfer case control- manual, with a mechanical lever drive. With the rear lever, the driver shifts gears, with the front lever, he engages the differential lock. The design of the box control drives is similar. The arm swings longitudinally on an axle installed in the bracket lugs in front of the transfer case. To reduce friction, plastic bushings are inserted into the hole in the lever. The lower end of the lever enters the groove of the rod and is fixed with a curly spring. The other end of the rod is connected to the fork of the corresponding clutch (gear shift or differential lock) and is secured with a bolt. The stem at the exit from the box is sealed with a gland and protected from dust by a rubber bellows. A ball lock serves to fix the drive in the selected position - a spring-loaded ball enters the grooves on the rods. There are three of them on the gear shift rod - for "neutral", high and low gears, on the differential lock rod - two ("on" and "off"). A switch is screwed into the front axle drive cover, which closes the control lamp circuit when the differential lock is turned on.

The VAZ 2121 car, in other words, "Niva" - entered mass production in the 70s of the last century. Such a car belongs to the class of off-road passenger cars. In the history of the domestic automobile industry, Niva became the first car in the design of which all-wheel drive was used. Let's take a closer look at the transmission device. This should be done in order to understand why, given the almost 40-year history, the Niva transmission differs from many other similar machines equipped with all-wheel drive and the ability to shift in the classical way or using a viscous coupling.

The transmission in the Niva family (2121, 2131) is designed in such a way that four-wheel drive is supplied to 4 wheels. The presence of an interaxle differential is also characteristic. The transmission includes a gearbox, a transfer case, a pair of propeller shafts, and both axles. The characteristic feature of the 2131 is the elongated body. Otherwise, the predominant similarities with the first model can be traced throughout. From the motor there is a transmission of torque through the gearboxes to the "razdatka", and she, in turn, transmits the moment to the bridges.

Further, through the cardan shafts, it goes to the gearboxes. The front gearbox transmits torque to the wheels through a differential and constant velocity joints. Likewise for the rear, also protruding leading, wheels. Precisely because the torque is distributed to 4 wheels at the same time, the drive is called complete. The designation is as follows - 4WD. Another domestic car, built on a similar principle to the Niva, is the UAZ.

Such a mechanism is a kind of distributor of traction forces coming from the motor to the wheels. An important feature is that the latter have the ability to rotate at different speeds. The importance of the presence of a differential mechanism is due to the fact that during the turning maneuvers, the inside wheel makes fewer turns, if we compare them with the number of outside turns.

In the absence of a differential mechanism, this would cause detrimental consequences, such as wear and damage, because the following would turn out: one wheel would be in the axle box when cornering, and the other would simply rub against the road surface. The design features of the Niva transmission provide for the presence of 3 differentials. They are located in each of the bridges and in the dispensing mechanism.

When the machine is moving on a flat road and in a straight line with differentials, the traction force is divided equally between all 4 wheels. In case of insufficient adhesion of the wheels to the coating, the appearance of slipping, the differentials will redistribute the load on the skidding and sliding wheel so that the first receives more effort, and the second, respectively, less.

We have already mentioned the UAZ. Despite many similarities, it should be understood that the VAZ's all-wheel drive is made in the "pat-time" style. This means that when connected, the axles are firmly connected to each other, and rotation occurs at the same speed. Such a device imposes some restrictions on the use of all-wheel drive - the possibility of its use only in cases where road conditions allow slippage. In cases with hard asphalt roads and tracks, it is recommended to switch the car to mono drive mode.

Blocking differentials

Sometimes you can come across a misconception about why you need a small knob next to the shift lever on the Niva. Some car owners believe that it is needed to connect the front drive. However, the front-wheel drive for this car is permanently connected. As well as the back. The cars of the Niva family have a permanent all-wheel drive. The handle is actually used to switch the operating modes of the transfer case differential.

In the "forward" position, the work of the differential proceeds normally, but if you move it back, the differential is blocked, and the forces from the motor go to the axle differentials, which makes the drive more rigid. It is worth noting that there are also special types of locks for the front and rear axles.

In theory, when applied in conditions where the car is stuck, it will be able to overcome an obstacle if there is sufficient traction on the surface of at least one wheel. Differential lock in this case is best done before overcoming an obstacle, but should never be done after hitting a difficult area to overcome. This use of blocking will avoid wear and damage to the transmission.

A number of gears down

A common misconception that can be encountered is that shifting the rear handle can improve the performance of the motor. But this is not true. It serves to change the gear ratio between the motor and the wheels. With its increase, the tractive effort on the wheels will increase. There is also a reduction gear in the dispensing mechanism.

This is how it works and can be controlled by means of the rear handle. When shifting the lever back, we will have a gear ratio of 2.135 - this is the low gear. It is recommended to engage such a downshift only when the machine is stationary and the clutch is depressed. Despite the fact that the manual does not contain such a restriction, it is not recommended for beginners and inexperienced Niva drivers to switch while driving, since the Niva dispensing mechanism is not equipped with a synchronizer.

To make driving your car comfortable, check out some important points:

1. The usual, standard front and rear handle positions are forward and backward, respectively. Driving in this mode can and should be carried out on areas characterized by an even and smooth surface.
2. Locking the differential by moving the front handle to the rear position is best on slippery roads. Such a measure will give Niva stability. It should be understood that after overcoming the problem area, the handle will need to be returned to its original position.
3. As noted earlier, downshifting should be activated in front of a potential obstacle, but not at the time when the car is already stuck.
4. It should be understood that locking on a stationary car is sometimes impossible, even if you squeeze the clutch. This could be because the clutch teeth are pressed against the gear teeth. In this case, you can try to activate the lock by starting a slow movement and performing a gentle turn. If problems arise with disengaging the lock, then it is recommended to follow the same procedure with the clutch depressed and a little shaking of the steering wheel.

All-wheel drive Niva (VAZ-2121) and its features

Any VAZ car is different from the Niva. And not only VAZ, but any other. The fact is that the Niva has a permanent four-wheel drive. This required the introduction of a transfer case into the transmission (the connection between the wheels and the engine). Because of this difference, there is a lot of confusion and a lot of questions. Here are the answers to some of them.

1. No car without differential... What it is? This is a mechanical device that distributes the traction force from the engine to two wheels and allows them to rotate at different speeds. The differential is vital for the car - when turning, the inner wheel travels less, and the outer wheel travels more. If there was no differential, then there would be heavy wear of the rubber or when cornering, one wheel would skid, rotating faster, the other would brake, rotating slower. All this would provoke a skid. And the axle loads would be very high.

In the drive transmission of the Niva such differentials three... one in each axle (interwheel), so that the wheels have a different speed of rotation and one more, center. located in the razdatka to distribute traction between the axles. This differential allows the wheels of different axles to move at different speeds. In a normal straight-line motion without slipping, the tractive effort is halved by all differentials, and the same torque is supplied to all wheels. When a wheel slips through the differential, all the torque will go to the skid wheel, and the tractive effort of the other wheels will decrease.

2. One of the main misconceptions regarding the Niva drive, it is a myth about the possibility of connecting the front drive with the front handle "transfer case"... The fact is that the front end of the Niva is always on, it is a car with a non-disconnectable all-wheel drive. And the mentioned handle changes the work of the transfer case differential. When the handle is in the forward position, the differential works, when it is in the back position, it is locked. Why is this necessary? When the lock is disabled, the traction force is equally distributed between the axles, but if the center differential is blocked, then the traction force is distributed in a completely different way. In this case, the tractive effort is transferred to the side of greater resistance. If, for example, the rear wheel slips, then all the moment is spent on the slipping wheel. But if you turn on the interaxle blocking, then the torque will begin to flow to the front axle, and the Niva will be able to overcome the obstacle. If at the same time the front wheel also stalls, then the Niva will definitely not be able to leave. True, if you put an interwheel differential lock, and there are such automatic locking differentials, then the Niva will be able to leave on one wheel.

3. Another misconception associated with the Niva drive: when shifting the rear handle (large) we increase the engine power... This is not true. This knob can be used to change the gear ratio between the wheels and the engine for the transmission and to change the tractive effort on the wheels. In the razdatka, in addition to the differential, there is a reduction gearbox, which is, as it were, a two-stage gearbox. The work of this gearbox is controlled by this handle. When engaging a low gear, we shift the gearbox operation towards the transmission of increased tractive effort. the speed of movement is thus significantly reduced.

Therefore, before off-roading, it is best to engage a lower gear, which will increase tractive effort. It is best to turn it on and off when the vehicle is at a standstill.

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