Homemade snowmobile with a motorized carriage engine. Do-it-yourself snowmobile from a car. How to make homemade caterpillars

"Buran-2"

Aleksey Sotnikov, 18, a graduate of a technical lyceum from the village of Nizhny Mamon, presented his version of the Buran snowmobile. It took him half a motorcycle, some motor scooter, some spare parts for agricultural machinery and two years of research. This is the third model of Alexei: initially he built an ATV, then decided that skis were more reliable in winter, after which he had to build new frame(the first could not withstand the load and broke. The Voronezh copy of Buran is equipped with a two-cylinder engine from the Izh-Jupiter motorcycle with a capacity of 24 horsepower, a transmission from a motor scooter with reverse gear, a headlight from a tractor, a home-made gas tank and a frame welded from a metal profile. At the rear, the snowmobile is driven by a caterpillar from a conveyor belt with tracks self-made, there are two shock-absorbed aluminum skis in front. On a homemade snowmobile, you can overcome half-meter snowdrifts, and there is even enough power reserve for drifting.

"Zimogor"

Two home-made Zimogor snowmobiles equipped with 4-stroke Briggs & Stratton engines (22 and 18 Horse power) and caterpillars from the long "Buran" in 2009 took part in a large expedition: four thousand kilometers from Rybinsk to Salekhard. Of the two snowmobiles participating in the run, one had already covered about 4000 km at the start - it was a test model on which various design options were tried (chassis, shock absorbers, springs, etc.). The journey began on March 14 and ended on April 20: the snowmobiles covered the distance of 4,000 km in 37 days. Underdrive and reverse there were no snowmobiles, but the cars weighed 200 kilograms, and the tanks with a capacity of 50 liters allowed a significant reserve of autonomous work. In some places, "Zimogors" managed to reach speeds of up to 70 kilometers per hour.

Ski "Minsk"

The basic machine of the next home-made snowmobile is the Minsk motorcycle with a 125 cc engine. Rear axle with a differential and semi-axles borrowed from the UAZ-469 car. The suspension is homemade with additional shock absorbers from the Izh motorcycle. Tubes with a diameter of 1050 × 420 mm, "shod" in tires with cut tread and sidewalls. Both those and others - from the tractor cart. The maximum speed of the wheel-ski "Minsk" is 45 kilometers per hour. The same designer became the author of the tracked-ski modification of the "Minsk", having installed the drive shaft with 17-tooth sprockets from the "Buran" snowmobile. The tracked "Minsk" is capable of accelerating up to 50 kilometers per hour.

Pneumatic drive

Snowmobile on tires low pressure universal in that in summer it easily turns into an ordinary all-terrain vehicle. Our next copy was built by a certain Vladimir from Solikamsk. The pneumatic drive is built on the basis of the SZD motorized carriage using power unit from the Izh Planeta-4 motorcycle with a capacity of about 20 horsepower. Cameras huge wheels once belonged to the heavy-duty KrAZ. The author put up his invention for sale. Such a snowmobile costs only 55 thousand rubles.

Fishermen, hunters and hobbyists winter species sports use snowmobiles to travel to the best recreational areas. Even inexpensive models of such equipment cost about a hundred thousand rubles, more often more. Those who want to save money can assemble a homemade snowmobile on tracks in an ordinary garage workshop. The cost of parts for construction does not exceed 40 thousand rubles.

Snowmobile device

Homemade snowmobiles settle on caterpillar... The tracks are driven by the engine internal combustion mounted on a rigid metal frame. Supported in working position by wheels and special rollers. Basic execution options:

• With a solid or breakable frame.
• With rigid or shock-absorbed suspension.
• With an engine from a walk-behind tractor or from a motorized carriage.

Short skis are used for steering. Lightweight snowmobiles (weighing up to 100 kg), designed for driving with maximum speed up to 15 km / h, do not require mandatory equipment braking system... They stop easily when the engine speed drops. Make a homemade snowmobile on tracks you can use the algorithm:

1. Engine selection, frame and chassis calculation.
2. Spot-welded frame assembly.
3. Steering device.
4. Installation of the engine in the design position for a temporary attachment.
5. Checking the structure for resistance to overturning.
6. If the check is successful - major welding of the frame, installation of the engine.
7. Installation of drive system, bridges.
8. Assembling and installing tracks.
9. Body parts assembly.

After that, the final tests are carried out. If the snowmobile rides normally and does not tip over, then it is driven into the garage and disassembled. The frame is cleaned of rust, painted in 2 layers, the remaining elements are finished, after which they assemble a homemade snowmobile on tracks with their own hands.

Engine selection

Are applied gasoline engines for motoblocks or sidecars. The engine speed is controlled by the throttle stick placed on the rudder grip. To make a homemade tracked snowmobile with your own hands, the easiest way is use ready-made small-volume engines for walk-behind tractors with pre-installed:

• Fuel tank.
• Ignition system.
• Reduction gear with a ratio of 1: 2.
• Centrifugal clutch that automatically engages when revving up.

The power of these motors does not exceed 10 horsepower, but they are easy to install: the master does not need to separately assemble the ignition system, supply fuel pipes, adjust the clutch, etc. There are different options on the market:

Brand	Model	Power, hp with.	Volume, cm3	Weight, kg	Approximate price, thousand rubles
Kipor	KG160S	4,1	163	15,5	20−25
Sadko	GE- 200 R	6,5	196	15,7	15−20
Lifan	168 FD-R	5,5	196	18,0	15−20
Zongshen	ZS168FB4	6,5	196	16,0	10−15
Nomad	NT200R	6,5	196	20,1	10−15
Brait	BR-177F-2R	9,0	270	30,0	10−15
Honda	GX - 270	9,0	270	25,0	45−50

If it is not possible to purchase a ready-made engine from a walk-behind tractor, then you can use an engine from a motorized carriage. Such engines are more powerful by 10-15 horsepower, but require self-assembly. The system includes:

• Engine.
• Clutch.
• Reducer.
• Gas tank (volume 5-10 liters).
• Muffler.
• Generator.
• Switch and coil electronic ignition.

Some of the elements will fit from old motorcycles (Minsk, Vostok, Java, Ural). The gas tank is positioned as close to the carburetor as possible to shorten the length of the pipes.

Frame and body

It is recommended to draw up a drawing of the frame before work. The structure is welded from a 25 x 25 mm square tube with a wall thickness of 2 mm. At payload over 150 kg, the section size is increased to 30 x 25 mm. The loading area and body elements are sheathed with plywood. Seats are matched with a hydrophobic coating.

In the center of the fracture frame, there is a hinge that allows rotation around a vertical axis. The maximum angle of rotation is limited by welding metal plates. The front half is used for steering and the engine is placed on the rear frame.

The one-piece frame is welded in the form of a rectangle, inside which bridges and tracks are located. The engine is placed at the front on a special platform, rigidly welded to the rest of the frame. In both cases, the motor is placed in the transverse direction (the shaft extends to the end).

Drive system

A small diameter drive sprocket is installed on the motor output shaft. From it, the torque is transmitted through the chain to the driven shaft located under the engine seat. On the driven shaft there are:

• Large diameter driven sprocket.
• Cogwheels that drive the tracks.
• Track guides.

The driven shaft is mounted on the frame with bearings. The cogwheels push the tracks, driving the tracks. The chain and sprockets are removed from one device. Old motorcycles and snowmobiles ("Buran") are suitable for the role of a donor. The cogwheels for tracks can only be removed from other tracked vehicles.

The guide rollers rotate with the shaft, are attached next to the gear wheels and serve to tension the belt. They are made of wood or plastic and have a layer of soft rubber at the ends. Rubber prevents damage to the track. It is easy to make such rollers yourself by fixing the edging with a furniture stapler.

Calculation and assembly of the caterpillar

The caterpillar is a tape on the outer surface of which the tracks are fixed. Tracks are rigid lugs installed along the entire length of the tracks. Track options:

• Made of 3 mm thick conveyor belt.
• From a car tire.
• From V-belts.
• Factory-made ready-made caterpillars.

The conveyor belt must be looped back. Its strength is only sufficient for light snowmobiles with engines no more powerful than 10 hp. with. Car tires are stronger than tape and are suitable for powerful engines. Solid tires do not need to be looped back, so the chance of rupture is minimal. A tire of the right length is more difficult to pick up than a tape.

Ready tracks are removed from other similar equipment (snowmobiles "Buran", "Sherkhan"). Grousers are installed on them from the factory. The products are not suitable for use with low-power motors from walk-behind tractors. Self-made snowmobiles made from "Buran" tracks must have gear wheels from the same "donor".

The size of the track is selected according to the required driving characteristics: the wider the width, the lower the controllability, but the higher the cross-country ability. The minimum area of ​​the contact patch from a snowmobile (skis and tracks) should be such that the pressure from the equipped vehicle does not exceed 0.4 kg / cm 2 of the surface. In light snowmobiles, a conveyor belt 300 mm wide is used, cut lengthwise into 2 strips of 150 mm.

Preparing the ribbon

The tracks are attached to homemade caterpillars M6 bolts with a wide head. The bolts are fixed with a nut, a washer and a grover are used. Before fastening, leading holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled in the tape and tracks. When drilling, a jig and wood drills with a special sharpening are used.

The conveyor belt is also looped back with M6 bolts. To do this, the edges of the tape overlap each other with an overlap of 3-5 cm, the connection contains 1-2 rows of bolts. For track width 150 mm withstand the following distances:

• From the edge of the tape 15-20 mm.
• Between the bolts on the tracks 100-120 mm.
• Between the bolts when ringing 25-30 mm.

Just one track requires 2 bolts, one tape connection - 5-10 bolts, depending on the number of rows. When using car tires, only the treadmill is left, and the sidewalls are removed with a shoe knife.

The tracks are made of a polyethylene pipe with a diameter of 40 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, sawn in half in the longitudinal direction. An entire section of the lug is adhered to the belt. In light snowmobiles, one track connects the track pair. With a track width of 150 mm, the track length is 450-500 mm.

The lugs are cut with a circular saw into wood. A special machine is used with two guides (metal and wood), rigidly fixed on a fixed tabletop. The pipe walls are sawn in turn.

The distance between the tracks depends on the parameters gear wheels on the drive shaft. Usually it is 5-7 cm. The specified distance is maintained with an error of no more than 3 mm. Otherwise, the operation of the drive is disrupted: the lugs "run over" the teeth of the driving wheels, the caterpillar begins to slip and fly off the rollers.

Chassis

Lightweight snowmobiles designed for riding on loose snow are equipped with an articulated suspension made of an extended M16 nut. It is a lightweight construction with simple device, which does not provide comfortable driving characteristics of homemade products.

Snowmobiles on tracks, designed for driving on packed snow, must provide shock absorbers (from a motorcycle or moped). Shock absorbers are installed at the points of attachment of skis and bridges to the frame. The suspension travel is selected so that the moving parts do not touch the snowmobile body during operation.

Steering wheel and skis

The steering is displayed on two front skis according to a scheme structurally similar to the suspension. It is made of a threaded stud installed in an elongated M16 nut, rigidly welded to the frame. The steering wheel from a moped or motorcycle ("Minsk") is used.

In total, the design uses 3 plastic skis from a children's scooter (or homemade from plywood 3 mm thick). A pair of front skis are used for taxiing. Skis up to 1 meter long are used, if necessary, reinforced with a steel pipe and plate.

The third ski is supporting, serves to maintain the belt in working order. It is shorter than the others and is located between the bridges (in the center). A T-beam is attached to the support ski, rigidly welded to the frame. On top of the beam are freely rotating track rollers. Installation of this design is unnecessary if the track does not sag.

Construction of bridges

The bridges are located under the loading dock. One bridge has 2 inflatable wheels from the garden cart and a metal rod. The wheels rotate freely and are not driven. In snowmobiles built on the basis of motors from motoblocks, the wheels are half inflated. Clamps are welded to the outer ends of the wheels, with the help of which the axles are attached to the frame.

The front axle is stationary, its clips are rigidly welded to the frame. The rear axle should move freely along the frame, as it serves to tension the track. Its locks provide for frictional tightening of M10 bolts, securing the bridge in the working position.

How to make a snowmobile with your own hands... The scheme of the snowmobile used the same as in the car of the Matveychuk brothers: a tricycle with two front steering skis and one driving track at the back. This arrangement promised the car good cross-country ability and stability, which is important when driving over rough terrain without roads. But the driver's landing on the "Mysl-2" like on a motor scooter did not suit me.

It was more familiar to me, and more convenient to manage snowmobile sitting on it, as on a motorcycle - on horseback. Therefore, the layout of the power unit with a gearbox for a snowmobile was the same as for a motorcycle, and even the control levers did not need to be altered.

The frame of my car, unlike the spatial frame of the brothers' snowmobile, is simpler - a motorcycle (backbone) type with cantilever beams (traverses). The material of the main spar is a 40x40x4 mm steel channel. The upper part (crossbar) is selected ready-made (from the "Karpaty" moped). It is a rather complex configuration.

But this is not due to any need. Therefore, in the figures, its shape is simplified. The front strut is made of steel pipe with a diameter of 28 mm in the shape of a fork, its lower ends rest on the front beam, taken together with the suspension arms from passenger car(the beam is shortened, and only the lower levers are used). The crossmembers of the crawler unit subframe are made of steel pipe.

Ties are inserted into them through nylon bushings. The console for the intermediate shaft is made of a 60x60 mm angle. Saddle and body brackets are made of 4mm steel strip. The crawler subframe is also of a simple design.

Its basis is two spars made of steel angle 60x60 mm. Spars are tightened by cross members; front welded to the frame snowmobile... From the bottom to the side members, two arcuate racks of the track block support ski are also welded, and an arcuate luggage rack is attached to the top with M8 bolts.

All racks are made of half-inch steel water pipe. According to initial estimates on a snowmobile, it was supposed to use an engine from a motorcycle as a power plant. off-road"Tula" with a working volume of 200 cm3 and a power of 13 hp. with forced air cooling.

In this case, it would be possible to close the front of the snowmobile with a hood-fairing, traditional for cars of this type, which significantly improved ride comfort, especially in frost and headwind. However, it was not possible to buy a "Tula" engine at a price acceptable to me, and the car had to be equipped with an old, overhauled power unit (engine with gearbox) from the "Voskhod-ZM" motorcycle.

Its power is even slightly higher (14 hp), although the working volume is less (175 cm3). However, it does not have forced cooling. Therefore, the hood had to be abandoned, and instead of it, two wind deflectors (like mud flaps) were installed with a gap between them, into which the air flow passes to cool the engine.

The drivetrain on my motonart is a little more complicated than on snowmobile"Mysl-2" - with an intermediate shaft. But the shaft did not become a superfluous link - having sprockets with different numbers of teeth (22 and 12), it plays the role of a reducer (or, as local home-builders call it, a "creeper"). Rotation from the gearbox of the power unit to the intermediate shaft and from it to the drive shaft of the tracked unit is carried out by chain drives.

The tension of the chains is regulated by plates placed under the bearing housings of the intermediate and drive shafts. The tracked unit is the most complex of the self-made assemblies. I had no experience in making it, so I was guided by the design and dimensions of the parts given in the magazine. Since the publication is long-standing and young self-made readers do not have this magazine, I think it is worth citing the drawings of the block, its main units and details again.

Of course, there are some differences in the design and materials of my tracked unit, and although they are not so fundamental and significant, I think it is worth focusing on them. So, the shaft and axle bearings of my tracked unit are not 203, but 80204 - they are larger in size and have protective washers on both sides of the separator.

The support ski is completely nylon. On it, I did not provide for lateral brass guides - with the correct (parallel) installation of the axis relative to the drive shaft and good tension, the caterpillar does not lead to the side.

Exploitation snowmobile showed that instead of rear sprockets, it is better to use rollers, which can be made without much difficulty from the same sprockets, cutting off their teeth, which I subsequently did. The bolts for fastening the track bars to the belt are installed with protruding ends with nuts outward: now they work like spikes on motorcycle tires for an ice speedway - they provide good grip both with a snow roll on the road, and with solid ice in the field, and with ice on a river or lake ...

The front control skis were made of an aspen board 15 mm thick and 180 mm wide. I steamed the ski socks in boiling water and bent them in a template until dry. After that, he impregnated with linseed oil and sheathed the bottom with aluminum sheet. I attached guide rails made of 25x25 mm duralumin corner to the sole in the middle.

Racks of steering skis are mounted in bushing housings fixed at the ends of the steering knuckle arms taken from a passenger car. The levers are sprung with shock absorbers with springs from an old moped. The skis are controlled through the modified steering rods from the motorized carriage (the standard tips on the rods have been replaced by universal joint forks), connected to a bipod attached to the end of the steering shaft.

All equipment of the snowmobile: seat, steering wheel, headlight, signal, electrical appliances, as well as the power unit, are from the old Voskhod-ZM motorcycle. The trunk is welded from steel sheet with a thickness of 1 mm, from below for rigidity it is edged with a corner of 25x25 mm. Gas tank with a capacity of 6 liters - from a moped. A toolbox is mounted under the seat.

The track under the seat is covered with a duralumin sheet so that less snow falls on the driver's feet. To protect the torso and face from the oncoming air flow, in addition to the front shields, the windshield was reinforced above them. The design of the transmission and the propeller allows the car to do without brakes - there is practically no roll-over.

Accounting for construction costs snowmobile did not produce - it would have to be done rather scrupulously, since I did not spend a lot, since I mainly used units, units and mechanisms that were once abandoned (and picked up by me) by someone, waiting in the wings in the yard "arsenal".

I don’t consider the time spent as killed, because in addition to design experience, additional skills in working with metal and moral satisfaction from a machine worked with my own hands, as a result, I have vehicle, very necessary in the economy for the transportation of various goods and in general for quickly overcoming significant distances even in the deep snows of our northern region in the long winter.

Snowmobile: 1 - body (StZ, sheet s0.8, edging - corner 25x25); 2 - seat (from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 3 - gas tank with a capacity of 6 liters (from the "Karpaty" moped); 4 - steering wheel (from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 5 - tracked unit (propulsion unit); 6 - intermediate shaft: 7 - frame; 8 power unit (from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 9- muffler; 10-steering ski (2 pcs.); eleven - Tie Rod(from motorized carriage SZD): 12 - instrument cluster(from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 13 - suspension arm (from the SZD motorized carriage); 14 - snow shield (duralumin, sheet s1); 15 - wind glass (plexiglass); 16 - wind shield (duralumin, sheet s1, 2 pcs.); 17 - headlight (from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 18 - shock absorber (from the "Karpaty" moped)

Snowmobile frame and track block subframe: 1 - main spar (channel 40x40x4); 2 - upper crossbar (from the "Verkhovyna" moped); 3-seat post (tube 30x30); 4 - front pillar (pipe with a diameter of 28); 5 - underbody support stand (pipe 1/2 "); 6 - support ski stand (pipe 1/2", 2 pcs.); 7 - eyelet for the support ski bracket (StZ, sheet s5, 8 pcs.); 8- power unit mounting brackets; 9.12 - rear and front cross members (pipe 1 "); 10 - body fastening bracket (StZ, sheet s4. 2 pcs.): 11 - seat fastening bracket (StZ, sheet s4); 13 - intermediate shaft mounting console (corner 60x60); 14 - front beams (from a passenger car, 2 pcs.); 15 - shock absorber mounting bracket (from a passenger car, 2 pcs.); 16 - arc (1/2 "pipe); 17 - brace (hairpin with a diameter of 18.2 pcs.); 18 nut М22 (4 pcs.); 19 - nylon bushing (4 pcs.); 20 - spar of the crawler block subframe (corner 60x60, 2 pcs.); 21 - a glass of the steering shaft (pipe with a diameter of 22.5)

Track block: 1 - support ski (nylon, sheet s15); 2- the driving sprocket of the track drive; 3 - support ski rack; 4 - spar of the track block subframe; 5 - driven (tension) sprocket (nylon s20, z = 10, 2 pcs.); 6 - axis of driven tensioning sprockets (pipe 032); 7 - track tensioner; 8 - sprocket flange (StZ, sheet s3, 4 pcs.); 9 - the drive shaft of the caterpillar (pipe with a diameter of 32); 10 - bearing 80204 in the housing (4 pcs.); 11 - front cross member of the subframe and the axis of the tracked block; 12 - connecting tape (rubber-fabric conveyor belt 45x8, 2 pcs.); 13 - bolt М6х40 with a washer (112 pcs.); 14 - snow hitch (birch bar 45x18, L500, 28 pcs.); 15 - guide corner (duralumin, corner 45x25, 56 pcs.); 16 - the eyelet of the support ski bracket (StZ, sheet s5, 8 pcs.); 17 - rubber bushing (4 pcs.); 18- axis (bolt М8х50, 4 pcs.); 19 - support ski bracket (4 pcs.); 20 - M6x35 countersunk head bolt (8 pcs.); 21 - chain sprocket (z = 32, motorcycle)

Support ski: 1 - screed (duralumin tube with a diameter of 10, 4 pcs.); 2 - bracket (4 pcs.); 3 - ski (nylon, s15); 4 - M6 bolts with countersunk heads for fixing brackets (8 pcs.)

Steering: 1 - steering wheel with bracket (from the Voskhod-ZM motorcycle); 2 - a collar of the steering shaft; 3 - washer (bronze); 4 - bushing; 5 - steering shaft (pipe 022); 6 - steering bipod (StZ, sheet s10); 7 - glass (pipe with a diameter of 22.5); 8 - thrust bearing (bronze); 9 - main frame spar; 10 - hinge (bolt M10); 11 - transverse steering rod (2 pcs.); 12 - front support frame

Track drive: 1 - chain sprocket (z = 32, motorcycle); 2 - bearing housing; 3 - M6 bolt for fastening the track sprocket to the flange (4 pcs.); 4 - leading tracked sprocket (z = 8, 2 pcs.); 5 - tubular shaft of the driving axle; 6 - track sprocket flange; 7 bearing No. 80204; 8 - chain sprocket hub (StZ, pipe with a diameter of 30x5); 9 - insert (StZ, circle with a diameter of 32); 10 - pin (bolt M8)

Steering ski: 1 - ski (aspen board 180x15); 2 - sole (aluminum, sheet s1); 3 - guide (dural corner 25x25); 4 - bracket (steel pipe with a diameter of 10); 5 - support bracket (StZ, sheet s3); 6 - rack fork (from cardan joint); 7 - stand (StZ, circle with a diameter of 32); 8 - case steering knuckle(StZ, pipe 032); 9 tie rod fork (from the universal joint); 10 - hinge (bolt M8); 11 - steering knuckle lever with bushing; 12 - pin (bolt M8); 13 - bushing (bronze, 2 pcs.); 14 - axis (M12 hairpin with two nuts); 15 - bushing (nylon, 2 pcs.); 16 - hinge body (pipe 1/2 ")

How to make a snowmobile on tracks with your own hands?

With the onset winter period two-wheeled vehicles are losing their relevance. Using a car to overcome short distances with high snow cover is not particularly practical, and in most cases is impossible. The snowmobile copes with this task much better.

A winter power-driven vehicle is in most cases equipped with a tracked vehicle. rear wheel drive and front steering skis. High cross-country ability, versatility and ease of use make the snowmobile by far the most popular means of transportation in the winter season.

Features of homemade snowmobiles

Nowadays, you can buy a snowmobile in any motorcycle showroom, both in a large metropolis and in a small city, however, the prices of this technique force many winter driving enthusiasts to make a homemade snowmobile on tracks with their own hands.

There are four important advantages of a self-made vehicle over a factory one:

1. Price is the most important factor for most. The cost of some units of the leading manufacturers of motor vehicles can exceed the cost of those assembled from scrap materials by 5-10 times.
2. Parameters - the ability to assemble a vehicle of the desired configuration. It concerns how appearance, and power reserve, type of chassis, etc.
3. Reliability is the point that even well-known manufacturers do not always boast of. When self-manufacturing, a person uses the highest quality materials and pays special attention to the most important components of the mechanism.
4. Benefit - the ability to use materials, parts and devices from other devices lying around in garages and backrooms.

At the same time, homemade snowmobiles are used both on the streets of settlements and on roadless areas of suburban expanses and ski resorts.

Homemade snowmobile on tracks with your own hands: where to start?

1 - back light; 2 - hitch; 3 - body (plywood, s16); 4 - side reflectors; 5 - rear shock absorber (from the Dnepr motorcycle, 2 pcs.); 6 - gas tank (from the launcher of the T-150 tractor); 7 - seat; 8 - main frame; 9 - electronic ignition switch (from the Voskhod motorcycle); 10 - ignition coil (from the Voskhod motorcycle); eleven - power point(from a motorized carriage, 14 hp); 12 - muffler (from motorized carriages); 13 - steering column; 14 - steering joint in a leather case filled with grease (joint from "UAZ"); 15 - limiter for vertical movement of the steering ski (chain); 16 - steering ski turn limiter; 17 - steering ski; 18 - side ski (2 pcs.); 19 - generator; 20 - clutch lever (from a motorized carriage); 21 - drive chain shield; 22 - footboard; 23 - drive shaft drive chain; 24 - the drive shaft of the caterpillar; 25 - lower track chain guide (polyethylene, s10, 2 pcs.); 26 - caterpillar chain (from the header of the forage harvester, 2 pcs.); 27, 31 - upper front and rear chain guides (polyethylene s10, 2 pcs.); 28 - shock absorber hinge frame mover (shortened rear shock absorbers motorcycle "Dnepr", 2 sets); 29 - support ski; 30 - rear spacer frame; 32 - rear axle.

The drawing of a homemade snowmobile is critical stage at the preparatory stage of manufacturing. Here to help engineering skills come in handy... and in the absence of such, surface sketches are made, creating a general image of the future mechanism.

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to determine the list of required components. The basis of the standard configuration of the snowmobile is:

1. Frame - depending on the complexity of the design, it can be borrowed from an ATV, motor scooter, scooter, motorcycle, etc. In their absence, the part is usually cooked from thin-walled metal pipes with a diameter of about 40 mm.
2. Seat - given the difficult operating conditions of the equipment, the material of this element must have a high water-repellent ability.
3. Engine - is selected with the calculation of the required speed and the total weight of the vehicle. The most commonly used motors are motoblocks, scooters, motorcycles, etc.
4. Tank - 10-15 liter metal / plastic container will fully provide carefree trips over relatively long distances and will not take up much space on the unit.
5. Skis - in the absence of ready-made options, for self-made it is recommended to use nine / ten-ply plywood sheets with a thickness of about 3 mm.
6. Steering wheel - chosen with the calculation of convenience and practicality. Similar to the frame, engine and seat, it is removed from the specified two-wheeled units.
7. Drive - a part that transfers rotary motion from the engine to the track. A motorcycle chain performs this function well.
8. The caterpillar is the most complex and important element... Their types and methods of self-production will be discussed further.

How to make homemade caterpillars?

One of the most common materials for making a propulsion unit at home is car tire... A homemade snowmobile track from a car tire has one important advantage over other options - it is made in the form of a closed loop, which significantly reduces the likelihood of rupture.

The beads are separated from the tire using a boot knife, leaving a flexible treadmill. The lugs are attached to the drive blade - plastic pipes sawn along with a diameter of about 40 mm and a thickness of about 5 mm. Cut to fit the width of the tire, half-pipes are attached to the canvas with bolts (M6, etc.) at intervals of 5-7 cm.

Homemade caterpillars are made in the same way. from conveyor belt... Their main advantage is the ability to choose the length of the propeller. After cutting to the required length, special attention should be paid to the hitch. The ends of the tape overlap each other by 3-5 cm, and are fixed across the entire width with the same bolts as the lugs.

Making homemade caterpillars is often helped by such improvised materials as V-belts... Fastened in width by means of lugs, they make up a full-fledged caterpillar track with hollows for the gear already existing on the inside.

Note that the wider the track, the better the snowmobile's flotation, but the poorer handling. Factory options have three samples of canvas width in inches: 15 - standard; 20 - wide; 24 - extra wide.

Let's go to practice

A frame made of pipes or corners is primarily equipped with a steering gear. Having chosen the height and angle of inclination, weld the element with spot welding. Install and fix the engine according to the drawing, taking care not to tilt too much. The snowmobile should not have a long fuel line, so try to position the tank closer to the carburetor.

The next step is to install the track. Attach the driven axle with the fitted belt to the rear of the frame (on a fork, suspension, shock absorber, etc., depending on the type of construction), the leading axle in the middle of the snowmobile (most often under the driver's seat), in the shortest possible hitch with the engine. The gears of both axles are pre-engaged.

Homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

This transformation is especially popular today. The walk-behind tractor can be used, either partially or completely. In the first case, a supporting frame with a rear axle is added to the unit (engine with steering fork and wheels). The most difficult stage in this case is the transformation of the working shaft of the walk-behind tractor into a drive gear.

Homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor with partial use of parts is more versatile. In this case, only the engine and the steering fork are removed from the "donor", to the lower part of which, instead of wheels, skis are attached. The motor itself can be located at the rear of the structure.

It should be noted that the engines of the main part of the motoblocks are designed for the weight and pressure of the wheels, which is several times less than the tracked one. Therefore, in order to avoid increased wear of parts and fuel consumption, it is better to equip such a snowmobile with low pressure wheels.

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