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I made this snowmobile in just a couple of weekends in the garage in the country. Although its design at first glance looks very simple, nevertheless, in terms of cross-country ability in deep loose or wet snow, it is not inferior to most industrial snowmobiles.

A few years ago, I made a snowmobile for my nine-year-old daughter with homemade caterpillar from a conveyor belt and plastic water pipes as lugs. At first, I had doubts about the reliability of such a caterpillar and how the plastic parts would behave in the cold. But during two years winter operation breakages and severe wear of pipes did not occur. This inspired me to create a lightweight snowmobile for myself with the same homemade track.

Realizing perfectly well that the less the weight of the snowmobile and the larger the support area of ​​the track, the better its passability on loose and deep snow will be, I tried to make the structure as light as possible.
The principle of operation of the snowmobile is very simple (fig. 1). Four wheels are installed inside the track, which, when moving, roll along the conveyor belt, on which the lugs are fixed. And the drive of the caterpillar from the motor is carried out by a chain through the driven shaft with special drive sprockets. I took them from the Buran snowmobile. "

With an engine from a conventional walk-behind tractor with automatic clutch with a power of only 6 hp. you will not accelerate quickly. I was not going to ride a snowmobile along rolled paths, but on loose snow, so I refused soft suspension tracks and skis to reduce the weight of the snowmobile and simplify the entire structure.

First I made a caterpillar. A plastic water pipe with a diameter of 40 mm was cut into blanks for lugs with a length of 470 mm. Then each workpiece was sawn with a circular saw lengthwise into two equal parts.
Using the tool shown in fig. 2, with a circular saw on wood, I cut along plastic pipes for lugs.

The lugs were attached to the conveyor belt with two 6 mm diameter furniture bolts with a large semicircular head. When making a caterpillar, it is very important to maintain the same distance between the lugs, otherwise they will run into the teeth of the drive sprockets and the caterpillar will begin to slip and slide off the rollers.

To drill holes in the conveyor belt for fastening bolts with a diameter of 6 mm, I made a jig. He drilled the holes in the tape with a wood drill with a special sharpening.

Using such a jig, 6 holes can be drilled in the conveyor belt at once for attaching three track lugs.

In the store I bought four inflatable rubber wheels from a garden cart, two drive sprockets from the Buran snowmobile and two closed bearings No. 205 for the drive shaft of the caterpillar.

I asked a turner to make the drive shaft of the track and bearings for the bearings. The frame of the snowmobile was made by myself from square tubes of 25x25 mm.

Since the ski and rudder pivot axes are on the same line and in the same plane, you can use a continuous steering rod without ball ends.

Ski sleeves are easy to make. I welded 3/4 ”female water sockets to the front cross member. In them he screwed in branch pipes with an external thread, to which he welded the bipod of the steering rack of skis.

I recommend using skis from the Argomak children's snow scooter. They are lighter and more flexible, but they need to be fitted with corners for attaching to the pivot stand of the snowmobile and a metal undercut at the bottom - for better control of the snowmobile when driving on crust or packed snow.

The chain tension is adjusted by shifting the motor.

The snowmobile is very easy to operate. As the engine revs up with the throttle on the handlebars, the automatic centrifugal clutch engages and the snowmobile starts moving. Since the estimated speed of the snowmobile is not high (only about 10-15 km / h) and depends on the density of the snow, the snowmobile is not equipped with brakes. It is enough to reduce the engine speed and the snowmobile stops.

I will share a few tips that you may find useful when repeating this construction.

1. I cut the pipe for the tracks along the wood with a circular saw, first on one side, then on the other. So it turns out smoother than cutting both walls at once. It is more convenient to handle small workpieces. If you immediately cut a long pipe along, then in this case the plastic will melt and the saw blade will clamp.

2. Tracks can be made of any width. And each designer has the right to choose what is more convenient for him: to make a wide but short track or a narrow and long one. Just remember that with a large track, the snowmobile will not handle well and the engine is loaded more, and with a small track, it can fall through in loose deep snow.

3. Some of my photos show that there are plastic "barrels" installed inside the caterpillar. These are the guide stops for the skid, which should prevent the tracks from sliding off the rollers. But during the operation of the snowmobile, the caterpillar did not slide off the rollers even without a slip, so the "barrels" can not be installed, which will reduce the weight of the snowmobile.

4. At the end of winter, I completely disassembled the snowmobile to determine its weight. The weight of its individual units turned out to be as follows: caterpillar - 9 kg;
drive shaft assembly - 7 kg; two pairs of wheels with axles - 9 kg; engine and steering wheel - 25 kg;
a pair of skis - 5 kg;
frame - 15 kg;
double seat with uprights - 6 kg.
In total, everything together weighs 76 kg.
The weight of some parts can be reduced even further. Still, the weight for a sled with a track of this size is quite satisfactory.

The geometric dimensions of my snowmobile are as follows: the length of the snowmobile frame is 2 m; the distance between the axles of the support wheels (rollers) - 107 cm; track width - 47 cm. Track lug spacing depends on the thickness of the conveyor belt and it must be selected empirically (I got 93 mm).
I do not give the exact dimensions and drawings of the snowmobile parts, since everyone who is going to repeat the design will focus on those parts and components that they can purchase or make on their own.

Making a snowmobile with your own hands is much easier than it sounds. This will require desire, a few parts from equipment that is idle in a shed or garage, amateur skills in working with metal and a little time. Purchased units will most likely also be required, but the cost of a snowmobile or snow scooter with a motor, assembled in a few evenings, will be much cheaper than a purchased one.

General construction rules

Homemade products for driving on snow are varied in appearance, size, layout, power, and even in the principle of movement. But in each version there are nodes that provide the properties necessary for snowmobiles, namely:

  1. Don't fall into the snow.
  2. Move on the surface with minimal friction and in the desired direction.

Obviously, the probability of sinking into the snow and the friction force depend on the weight of the unit, the contact area, the shape of the contact surface with the snow. Of course, the condition of the snow has its influence, but this must be taken into account.

To fulfill the main purpose, the following components are always present in the design of a snowmobile:

Making homemade products simplifies the availability of parts from specialized equipment. Spare parts from Buran snowmobiles or any tools and vehicles with a motor - scooters, motorcycles, motoblocks are often taken. The area for creativity when creating each node is huge. There are many varied and proven solutions for every detail.

Simple kids snowmobiles

The easiest way to make support is to fit wide skis under the frame. The option of creating snowmobiles is especially attractive in that a children's snow scooter and a tool with a low-power motor are used for their assembly - for example, a screwdriver, a hand-held lawnmower-trimmer or a 2-horsepower chainsaw.

A children's snowmobile from a chainsaw is assembled without reinforcing its frame, but for transporting adults in winter clothes, it is worth adding strength to the structure.

Ice snowmobiles

Walking along the river in winter is a slippery activity. However, if you replace the snow scooter with a sled and attach a 4-5 hp engine from the Druzhba chainsaw to them, you will get a safe means of transportation on ice:

The efficiency and speed of the ice sled is significantly higher than that of other designs. But on loose snow, such a structure will go with great difficulty.

Inflatable wheels

In terms of time consumption, the second most attractive design after snow-scooters and sledges is a home-made snowmobile from a chainsaw on wide inflatable chambers from the wheels of a truck or tractor. An even layer is applied to their surface for strength liquid rubber or other flexible and waterproof material is glued on. In a circle, at an equal distance from each other across the chamber, chains are put on or crossbars are firmly attached to increase traction. Rims for wheels can be borrowed for bicycles, motorcycle or do it yourself.

If there are no runners in the inflatable structure, then it will be able to ride even without snow on the soil. On such all-terrain vehicles, frames can be installed together with engines from Izh, Ural or Dnepr motorcycles. Design flaws - dimensions, weight and a high degree of wheel vulnerability, but this does not affect the popularity of high-speed home-made pneumatics.

Tracked

Caterpillar supports are used more often than others, while simultaneously performing the function of propellers. The reason is high efficiency and reliability. This design allows for high speeds while maintaining stability and maneuverability. There are several options for how to make tracks for a snowmobile with your own hands:

  • from a conveyor belt;
  • from truck tires;
  • from drive V-belts.

Across the conveyor belt, it is necessary to bolt plastic or PVC pipes cut along the axis, no more than an inch in diameter.

Even a child can handle such a light apparatus.

Old truck wheel tires with winter tread can also be used as tracks if the sidewalls are cut off. They do not need crossbeams, but they will have to sweep the edges with a line in increments of a centimeter, otherwise the tire will quickly crumple.

Drive belts, like the conveyor belt, must be equipped with lugs. Several parallel belts, from 2 or more, are interconnected with transverse strong lugs, attaching them to the belts with rivets or screws. The distance between adjacent hooks should be equal to the pitch of the drive sprocket.

Tracks made from conveyor belts or belts are often reinforced with a chain, which increases the reliability and durability of the propeller.

These snowmobiles combine lightness with a reliable drive.

One of the varieties of tracked snowmobiles is a motorized dog, which is named after its resemblance to a sled dog. To the detriment of maneuverability, the structure was lightened, the tractive effort also increased. But it is the most efficient snow towing mechanism.

To change direction, you need to apply considerable effort with a shift in the center of gravity of the motorized dog.

The basic dimensions for assembling a two-seater snowmobile shown in the drawing will help to make the ride comfortable. The rest of the dimensions will depend on the availability of spare parts, assembly diagram.

When driving, discomfort from headwind is alleviated by installing a motorcycle glass and mudguards for the legs. But it is impossible to completely close on such transport from the cold wind. For comfort, you need a fully enclosed cab, which means more weight and a more powerful engine.

Snowmobile with car engine designed for long journeys over long distances. With the heat-insulating material of the body, the ride is comparable to the comfort of a car.

And the easiest way to achieve comfort is to simply place the rear-wheel drive car on wide supports such as skis, tracks or pneumatic wheelbags, and also start up the drive. standard wheels to snowmobile propellers and attach the front ski to the steering arm.

It will not be superfluous during manufacture to provide for a replaceable scheme for replacing wheels with skis and vice versa, if you use spare parts for alteration.

Upgrading homemade snowmobiles

Having a ride on a simple snowmobile assembled with your own hands, it is impossible to resist thinking about improving transport. First of all, you can reduce the influence of frosty wind. For this, ready-made fairings, windshields are usually used - for example, as in the popular "Buran":

On short winter days, light from a motorcycle or car headlight... In order for the lamp to shine, you need a generator. For mini-constructions, it is enough to install a bicycle generator driven by a motor reducer. High-speed vehicles will require more powerful lighting.

There is no limit to perfection. One day assembled snowmobile can be endlessly retrofitted with all new devices for work, comfort and reliability. Many forums on this topic exist on the network, allowing you to transfer your own and taking into account someone else's experience in designing winter transport.

Attention, only TODAY!

The beloved winter time has come. Active fun in the fresh air is a guarantee of immunity and good health. What are winter games? Sleigh rides, ice slides, skiing, ice skating. These are traditional activities. If in childhood it is very interesting to ride a slide, then as an adult you want new, more extreme sensations. A modern invention comes to the rescue - a snowmobile.

Here's where to turn around. A real gift for outdoor enthusiasts. However, its cost quickly diminishes the fervor of activists. What to do in this case? Back to the ski track? In no case. You have a head on your shoulders and skillful hands - use them and build your own snowmobile. How to make a snowmobile with your own hands? Do not think that it is so difficult. In fact, almost everyone can do it. You just need to heed the following recommendations.

Coming up with an idea and doing it are two different things. Many people are afraid to start making their own, precisely because they think that assembling a snowmobile is a very difficult and almost impossible process. In fact, this is not at all the case. It only needs the right approach to work.

So you've decided to assemble your snowmobile yourself. Don't get to work right away. This will not result in good results... You need to prepare well:

  1. Consider why and when your snowmobile will be used;
  2. whether you can assemble the model yourself, or do you need outside help;
  3. what parts of ferrous and non-ferrous metals do you have in stock;
  4. do you have the tools you need to get the job done. If not, ask your relatives or neighbors in advance;
  5. calculate what financial budget you can count on when assembling.

Can we?

How to make a snowmobile with your own hands? This will require technical knowledge and skills. If you are not sure that you can cope with a task on your own, seek help from friends or family. They may be able to help you. If they are not confident in their abilities, it is better to postpone the process of assembling the snowmobile until you yourself have studied all aspects of its manufacture and you know 100% that you can cope with the task at hand.

Remember that any snowmobile, even the simplest one, is a fairly complex technique. If you have never encountered the repair of vehicles or the repair of complex technical devices, be sure to take a partner as your assistant.

If you or your partner have the so-called "golden hands", then for you the assembly of a snowmobile, even carried out according to the most complicated instructions, will seem like a simple process of assembling a children's designer. Therefore, feel free to get to work and use the most complex drawings.

What materials are needed

Before starting a detailed study of the drawings and instructions, think over, and from what will you assemble the model?

To do this, it is worth analyzing the contents of garages and basements, asking neighbors and acquaintances, and walking around the market rows. After you have roughly determined what materials can be used in the assembly, you can begin the first stage of work.

So, first it is worth determining what material will serve as the basis for the main part of our snowmobile. Skillful craftsmen will say that you can assemble a structure from anything. From what comes to hand. The most common options for materials used:

  • bike parts;
  • parts from a motorcycle;
  • details from a moped;
  • just improvised means from any type of transport.

The whole subsequent design depends on which part will become the main one in our assembly. Many craftsmen recommend making a snowmobile from a motorcycle, because its design is most suitable for "snow transport". Also, experienced craftsmen claim that on a snowmobile made of a motorcycle, you can feel all the power and strength of transport. An unforgettable experience is guaranteed.

If you do not have any of the proposed types of transport at hand, do not despair. Find or develop manufacturing drawings, and assemble the model yourself from whatever is at hand. You can consult more experienced craftsmen.

We develop a structure

After we have decided on the types of materials used, it is necessary to develop a basic work plan and select an assembly design.

To make a homemade snowmobile with your own hands, you will need to analyze your knowledge, skills and capabilities and choose one of the options for doing the job:

  1. making a model in accordance with instructions and drawings;
  2. self-assembly, depending only on your skills and imagination.

If you are a true master of your craft, then you can not use standard drawings, and try to make the model yourself in accordance with your preferences and wishes.

How it works?

The most important thing in self-assembly and manufacturing is to understand the basic principle of the model. Once you understand how a snowmobile works and what makes it move, you can figure out for yourself what parts we need to work and where they should be installed.

What are the principles of operation of any snowmobile, including homemade ones:

  1. For the model to be able to float in the snow and support you and your passengers, it needs a wide footprint. Its dimensions should be as large as possible. Its stability and performance depend on this;
  2. weight of the structure. Everything is clear here: the less our device weighs, the easier it will be for it to move in the snow. Therefore, when assembling, pay attention to the weight of the parts.

Approximate design options

Based on the study of the principles of our home-made transport, it is possible to develop approximate schemes of what the model will consist of and what will set it in motion:

  • we use 1 caterpillar as the main driving force, install 2 skis as an additional one;
  • the main driving force consists of 2 tracks. For supports, 1 ski is used.

This design is based on basic physical laws: in order for the model to stay in the snow, we need to use 3 anchor points. For the snowmobile to move independently, it needs driving force. It is a caterpillar. For optimal glide in the snow, skis must be used.

Self assembly

The simplest way to assemble a product consists of using a motorcycle and additional tools.

Approximate step-by-step instruction self-made:

  1. install the front support ski. To do this, you can remove the front wheel and replace it with a ski. The design allows the wheel to remain in place. In this case, the ski is installed on it;
  2. we increase the support area. For this we need a wide sheet of metal. We fix it just above the rear wheel. To make the rear wheel rotate freely, we make a slot in the metal sheet according to its size;
  3. on rear wheel we fix 2 track blocks (left and right).

If our design consists of 2 skis and one track block, the assembly steps are slightly different:

  1. on the front, we install and fix 2 skis. Remove the front wheel;
  2. we increase the surface area of ​​the structure with a metal sheet;
  3. on the back, remove the wheel and fix the track support instead.

This design can also be modified. To do this, we install a caterpillar on the front, and 2 skis on the back.

We need longevity

So that our homemade model served for several winters, it is necessary to take care of her carefully. Using the snowmobile should be as careful as possible:

  • after each use of the structure, it is necessary to carry out wet cleaning. Car detergents are suitable for this;
  • try to keep water and moisture out of the engine parts;
  • lubricate the main parts of the model with silicone grease or a special spray;
  • in summer it is better to protect the engine from damage. To do this, take the oiled cloth and attach it to the muffler.

With the onset of the winter period, two-wheeled vehicles are losing their relevance. Using a car to overcome short distances with high snow cover is not particularly practical, and in most cases it is impossible. The snowmobile copes with this task much better.

Winter mechanical vehicle in most cases is equipped with a caterpillar rear wheel drive and front steering skis. High cross-country ability, versatility and ease of use make the snowmobile by far the most popular means of transportation in the winter season.

Features of homemade snowmobiles

Nowadays, you can buy a snowmobile in any motorcycle salon, both in a large metropolis and in a small city, but the prices of this equipment force many amateurs winter ride make a homemade snowmobile on tracks with your own hands.

There are four important advantages of a self-made vehicle over a factory one:

  1. Price is the most important factor for most. The cost of some units of leading manufacturers of motor vehicles can exceed the cost of those assembled from scrap materials by 5-10 times.
  2. Parameters - the ability to assemble a vehicle of the desired configuration. It concerns how appearance, and power reserve, type of chassis, etc.
  3. Reliability is the point that even well-known manufacturers do not always boast of. When self-manufacturing, a person uses the highest quality materials and pays special attention to the most important components of the mechanism.
  4. Benefit - the ability to use materials, parts and devices from other devices lying around in garages and backrooms.

At the same time, homemade snowmobiles are used both on the streets of settlements and on roadless areas of suburban expanses and ski resorts.

Homemade snowmobile on tracks with your own hands: where to start?

1 — back light; 2 — hitch; 3 - body (plywood, s16); 4 - side reflectors; 5 - rear shock absorber (from the Dnepr motorcycle, 2 pcs.); 6 - gas tank (from the launcher of the T-150 tractor); 7 - seat; 8 - main frame; 9 - switch electronic ignition(from the "Voskhod" motorcycle); 10 - ignition coil (from the Voskhod motorcycle); eleven - power point(from a motorized carriage, 14 hp); 12 - muffler (from motorized carriages); 13 - steering column; 14 - steering joint in a leather case filled with grease (joint from "UAZ"); 15 - limiter for vertical movement of the steering ski (chain); 16 - steering ski turn limiter; 17 - steering ski; 18 - side ski (2 pcs.); 19 - generator; 20 - clutch lever (from a motorized carriage); 21 - drive chain shield; 22 - footboard; 23 - drive shaft drive chain; 24 - the drive shaft of the caterpillar; 25 - lower track chain guide (polyethylene, s10, 2 pcs.); 26 - caterpillar chain (from the header of the forage harvester, 2 pcs.); 27, 31 - upper front and rear chain guides (polyethylene s10, 2 pcs.); 28 - shock absorber hinge frame mover (shortened rear shock absorbers motorcycle "Dnepr", 2 sets); 29 - support ski; 30 - rear spacer frame; 32 - rear axle.

The drawing of a homemade snowmobile is critical stage at the preparatory stage of manufacturing. Here to help engineering skills come in handy, and in the absence of such, surface sketches are made, creating a general image of the future mechanism.

Before creating a drawing, it is necessary to determine the list of required components. The basis of the standard configuration of the snowmobile is:

  1. Frame - depending on the complexity of the design, it can be borrowed from an ATV, motor scooter, scooter, motorcycle, etc. In their absence, the part is usually cooked from thin-walled metal pipes with a diameter of about 40 mm.
  2. Seat - given the difficult operating conditions of the equipment, the material of this element must have a high water-repellent ability.
  3. Engine - is selected with the calculation of the required speed and the total weight of the vehicle. The most commonly used motors are motoblocks, scooters, motorcycles, etc.
  4. Tank - 10-15 liter metal / plastic container will fully provide carefree trips over relatively long distances and will not take up much space on the unit.
  5. Skis - in the absence of ready-made options, it is recommended to use nine / ten-layer plywood sheets with a thickness of about 3 mm for self-production.
  6. Steering wheel - chosen with the calculation of convenience and practicality. Similar to the frame, engine and seat, it is removed from the specified two-wheeled units.
  7. Drive - a part that transfers rotary motion from the engine to the track. A motorcycle chain performs this function well.
  8. The caterpillar is the most complex and important element... Their types and methods of self-production will be discussed further.
  9. How to make homemade caterpillars?

    One of the most common materials for making a propulsion unit at home is car tire... A homemade snowmobile track from a car tire has one over other options important advantage- it is made in the form of a closed loop, which significantly reduces the likelihood of rupture.

    The beads are separated from the tire using a boot knife, leaving a flexible treadmill. The lugs are attached to the drive blade - plastic pipes sawn along with a diameter of about 40 mm and a thickness of about 5 mm. Cut to fit the width of the tire, half-pipes are attached to the canvas with bolts (M6, etc.) at intervals of 5-7 cm.

    Homemade caterpillars are made in the same way. from conveyor belt... Their main advantage is the ability to choose the length of the propeller. After cutting to the required length, special attention should be paid to the hitch. The ends of the tape overlap each other by 3-5 cm, and are fixed across the entire width with the same bolts as the lugs.

    Making homemade caterpillars is often helped by such improvised materials as V-belts... Fastened in width by means of lugs, they make up a full-fledged caterpillar track with hollows for the gear already existing on the inside.

    Note that the wider the track, the better the snowmobile's flotation, but the poorer handling. Factory options have three samples of canvas width in inches: 15 - standard; 20 - wide; 24 - extra wide.

    Let's go to practice

    A frame made of pipes or corners is primarily equipped with a steering gear. Having chosen the height and angle of inclination, weld the element with spot welding. Install and fix the engine according to the drawing, taking care not to tilt too much. The snowmobile should not have a long fuel line so try to position the tank closer to the carburetor.

    The next step is to install the track. Attach the driven axle with the belt fitted to the rear of the frame (on a fork, suspension, shock absorber, etc., depending on the type of construction), the leading axle in the middle of the snowmobile (most often under the driver's seat), in the shortest possible hitch with the engine. The gears of both axles are pre-engaged.

    Homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

    This transformation is especially popular today. The walk-behind tractor can be used, either partially or completely. In the first case, a supporting frame with a rear axle is added to the unit (engine with steering fork and wheels). The most difficult stage in this case is the transformation of the working shaft of the walk-behind tractor into a drive gear.

    Homemade snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor with partial use of parts is more versatile. In this case, only the engine and the steering fork are removed from the "donor", to the lower part of which, instead of wheels, skis are attached. The motor itself can also be located at the rear of the structure.

    It should be noted that the engines of the main part of the motoblocks are designed for the weight and pressure of the wheels, which is several times less than the tracked one. Therefore, in order to avoid increased wear of parts and fuel consumption, it is better to equip such a snowmobile with wheels. low pressure.

In many regions of Russia in winter, the only means of transportation is a snowmobile. However, in times of financial crisis, not everyone can afford to buy expensive equipment. Why not think about the possibilities homemade designer with a universal motor unit "UMU", which will allow you to make a snowmobile with your own hands.

Our snowmobile consists of two parts. The first - driven - rests on skids in the form of skis with a seat for the driver. The second - the leading one - consists of a motorized unit "UMU" with a wheel drive. Both parts of the snowmobile are connected by a vertical hinge, which allows them to take different angular positions relative to each other.

The driven part includes a base frame with a driver's seat and control levers. It is pivotally supported on the runner brackets. The supporting frame is rigidly fastened to the swivel stand.

The runners are a pair of wide wooden skis connected in parallel. In the middle of each ski there are hinge brackets.

The frame design provides for attachment points for a removable foot platform equipped with brake pedals.

The control levers of the snowmobile are connected by a single bushing and are fixed with screws under the driver's seat.

Rubber tips are put on the handles of the levers. The right handle is equipped with a throttle cable mechanism from a serial motorcycle.

The steering rods will have to be made by ourselves. Thin-walled steel tubes with a diameter of 16 ... 18 mm are suitable. At their ends, it is necessary to install connecting hinges capable of working in two angular planes.

The second part of the snowmobile is equipped with a drive axle with self-made low pressure wheels. The best solution is to use pneumatic chambers from cars; when inflated, their outer diameter is approximately 80 mm.

It is best to make the support frame (see Fig. 2) of the driven part of the snowmobile from a thin-walled steel pipe with a diameter of 40 mm. It is difficult to bend a pipe of such a diameter without a special device, therefore, the rotary frame stand in its lower part will have to be assembled from two straight pieces during welding. If, nevertheless, it is possible to bend the pipe qualitatively without breaking its cross-section at the bend, then we recommend starting with this operation the manufacture of the driven frame.

Rice. 2. Construction of the supporting frame
1 - pivot stand, 2 - support beam, 3 - lever axle bushing, A - dimensions of the central part, B - general view of the supporting frame.

Use a metal hacksaw to cut the rest of the tubular blanks. File the joints with a semicircular file. Lay the pivot stand with the bent (or welded) end on a flat horizontal surface (concrete floor) and grip the mating parts with gas or electric welding. Make sure that all the tacked frame parts are exactly in the same plane. To do this, tap the entire length of the pipe with a hammer. Only after this operation, weld all the parts together.

The next step is to manufacture the flanges and linings of the support beam. Weld one of the finished flanges to the end of the support beam, observing perpendicularity to the pipe axis. Place two plates on the beam and weld the second flange to the opposite end, observing the alignment of the holes in both flanges. To install the support beam on the supporting frame, weld the covers on both sides, as shown in Figure 2.

Make sure that the beam is tacked perpendicular to the plane of the frame.

Then weld the covers. Make sure that the beam moves freely along its axis and at the same time rotates in the plates. Moving the beam along the axis, select such a position so that the distance from the plates to the flanges is the same on both the left and right. Mark this position with risks.

Now, according to Figure 2, adjust the angle of the flange so that the free holes point straight down. Check the position of the marks again and weld the beam pipe to the lining. Make the final adjustments and only then weld the seam clean.

To install the arm axle bush detailed description not required. It is much more difficult to install the brackets of the pivot axis, take this work extremely carefully, because here you need to maintain maximum accuracy in the alignment of the holes with each other, as well as the location of the plane of the centers of these holes with the center of the pivot stand and the axis of the middle segment of the frame.

The assembly of the frame is completed by welding the seat brackets and stiffening gussets.

For a ski pair (see Fig. 3) you will need to make two identical spacers, two identical brackets with axles and the actual pair of skis.

Rice. 3. General form ski couple

Rice. 4. Control details

1 - left control lever, 2 - control lever fastening, 3 - lever bushing, 4 - hinge end parts (8 pcs.), 5 - central hinge parts (4 pcs.)

As for the spacers, they will have to be cut from pipe sections with a diameter of 22 mm. Weld corners made of sheet steel with a thickness of 3 mm to them. The brackets will have to be bent from the same steel, and the axles will have to be turned on a lathe.

It is best to make skis yourself from sheets of 3 mm plywood in 9 or 10 layers. The best adhesive is epoxy. Dry on a mandrel using heavy duty clamps. You can read more about this operation in "Levsha" No. 12, 1997 (article "On the snow, like on asphalt").

Control levers and rods (see Fig. 4) are simple in design, even though they require welding and turning work during their manufacture. Pay great attention to the accuracy of the articulated rods. If possible, eliminate all backlashes during assembly.

We will not describe in detail the manufacture of the platform for the feet, brake pedals and seat - their design is clear from Figure 5.

A pivot axle is required to connect the driven part of the snowmobile to the driven one. Make it from a piece of steel pipe with a diameter of 22 mm and a length of 140 mm. Weld a square sheet steel flange at one end and drill a hole at the other end for the end washer stopper. The exact dimensions of the axle, flange and end washer can be found on page 10 in Lefty # 4, 2008 - Universal Bar Bottom.

By the way, from the same issue of the magazine, use the drive axle design, taking it as a basis in your snowmobile, replacing only the flanges shown in Figure 6.

Rice. 5. Device platform for legs

1 - brake pedal, 2 - brake drive cable, 3 - platform, 4 - platform bracket, 5 - brake lever.

Rice. 6. Wheel flange

For the final assembly of the snowmobile, you will have to slightly modify the micromotorcycle footboard bracket (see "Left-hander" No. 9, 2008), which is used to mount the snowmobile's pivot rods. The modification of the bracket is shown in Figure 7.

Rice. 7. Coupling of pivot rods

1 - swivel rod, 2 - hinge, 3 - M-6 locking hole (2 pcs.), 4 - stiffening gusset

For the simplest home-made snowmobile, you will need an old moped, welding and a little scrap metal to create a snowmobile frame.


As you can see from the photo, the main alteration is the installation of the ski instead of front wheel and the manufacture of a ski-supported saddle.


It is better to buy skis ready-made, all the same, skis are the basis of a snowmobile, but if it does not work out, then you can make yourself from duralumin. Just teach, duralumin is not cooked by ordinary welding, you need argon. Anyone who claims that duralumin cannot be boiled is not right. Argon-arc welding can be easily welded duralumin without violating its strength.

The motor mount is also redesigned for a wider base of the snowmobile. Here you can get by with the usual metal corners and arc welding.
The lug drive wheel is just as easy to make yourself. The transmission of rotation from the motor to the wheel is chain. Do not try to make huge lugs, if at the moment of giving full throttle frozen soil gets under the lug of a homemade snowmobile, then there is a high probability that the chain will break.


The muffler can be made by hand. You can not achieve special qualities to reduce noise, rolling the bear with the chirping of the engine of a homemade snowmobile in the taiga, you still will not wake up the bear, and other animals will be careful not to mess with the rumbling miracle.


The moped launcher is converted to a manual start. All the same, in felt boots, it is impossible to start by pulling the winding lever with your foot.


A box welded under a saddle on a homemade snowmobile is good for storing keys and spare parts. But it is better to put a bottle of vodka in such a glove compartment of a snowmobile made with your own hands. In case you break the chain. It's hard in the cold without vodka, but you can live with vodka.


As you can see, making a snowmobile with your own hands in the garage is quite simple. It remains only to wish good luck to home-made people who love to ride on the snowy plains of our Motherland on home-made snowmobiles!

How to make a homemade snowmobile with your own hands: diagram, photo and device

Such a homemade snowmobile was made in a few weeks with his own hands in his own garage. Its device, as we see, is very simple, and will be quite within the power of many home craftsmen.

A few years ago, I made a snowmobile for my nine-year-old daughter with a homemade track made of conveyor belt and plastic water pipes as lugs. At first I had doubts about the reliability of such a caterpillar and how the plastic parts would behave in the cold. But during the two-year winter operation, no breakdowns or severe wear of the pipes occurred. This inspired me to create a lightweight snowmobile for myself with the same homemade track.

In the photo above, a homemade tracked snowmobile is a single-seater at the top and a double-seater at the bottom.

Realizing perfectly well that the less the weight of the snowmobile and the larger the support area of ​​the track, the better its passability on loose and deep snow will be, I tried to make the structure as light as possible.

The principle of operation of the snowmobile is very simple (fig. 1). Four wheels are installed inside the track, which, when moving, roll along the conveyor belt, on which the lugs are fixed. And the drive of the caterpillar from the motor is carried out by a chain through the driven shaft with special drive sprockets. I took them from the Buran snowmobile.

With an engine from a conventional walk-behind tractor with an automatic clutch with a power of only 6 Horse power you will not accelerate quickly. I was going to ride the snowmobile not on rolled tracks, but on loose snow, so I abandoned the soft suspension of the track and skis to reduce the weight of the snowmobile and simplify the entire structure.

Homemade Snowmobile Tracks

First I made a caterpillar. A plastic water pipe with a cross section of 40 mm was cut into blanks for lugs with a length of 470 mm. Then each workpiece was sawn with a circular saw lengthwise into two equal parts.

Using the tool shown in fig. 2, with a circular saw on wood, I cut along plastic pipes for lugs.

Figure 1: Drawing diagram of a homemade snowmobile

The lugs were attached to the conveyor belt with two 6 mm furniture bolts with a large semicircular head. When making a caterpillar, it is very important to maintain the same distance between the lugs, otherwise they will "run over" the teeth of the drive sprockets and the caterpillar will begin to slip and slide off the rollers.

Figure 2. Plastic pipe cutting device:
1.wood block;
2. plastic pipe;
3. metal corner.

To drill holes in the conveyor belt for 6 mm fastening bolts, a conductor made a jig. He drilled the holes in the tape with a wood drill with a special sharpening.

Using such a jig, 6 holes can be drilled in the conveyor belt at once for attaching three track lugs.

In the store I bought four inflatable rubber wheels from a garden cart, two drive sprockets from the Buran snowmobile and two closed bearings No. 205 for the drive shaft of the caterpillar.

I asked a turner to make the drive shaft of the track and bearings for the bearings. The frame of the snowmobile was made by myself from square tubes of 25 × 25 mm.

Since the ski and rudder pivot pivots are on the same line and in the same plane, you can use a continuous steering rod without ball ends.

Ski sleeves are easy to make. I welded 3/4 ”female water sockets to the front cross member. In them he screwed in branch pipes with an external thread, to which he welded the tie rod bipods and ski racks.

I recommend using skis from the Argomak children's snow scooter. They are lighter and more flexible, but they need to be fitted with corners for attaching to the pivot stand of the snowmobile and a metal undercut at the bottom - for better control of the snowmobile when driving on crust or packed snow.

The chain tension is adjusted by shifting the motor.

The snowmobile is very easy to operate. As the engine revs up with the throttle on the handlebars, the automatic centrifugal clutch engages and the snowmobile starts moving. Since the estimated speed of the snowmobile is not high (only about 10-15 km / h) and depends on the density of the snow, the snowmobile is not equipped with brakes. It is enough to reduce the engine speed and the snowmobile stops.

I will share a few tips that can be useful when repeating this construction.

1. I cut the pipe for the tracks along the wood with a circular saw, first on one side, then on the other. So it turns out smoother than cutting both walls at once. It is more convenient to handle small workpieces. If you immediately cut a long pipe along, then in this case the plastic will melt and the saw blade will clamp.

2. Tracks can be made of any width. And each designer has the right to choose what is more convenient for him: to make a wide but short track or a narrow and long one. Just remember that with a large track, the snowmobile will not handle well and the engine is loaded more, and with a small track, it can fall through in loose deep snow.

3. In some of my photos, it can be seen that plastic "barrels" are installed inside the caterpillar. These are the guide stops for the skid, which should prevent the tracks from sliding off the rollers. But during the operation of the snowmobile, the caterpillar did not slide off the rollers even without a slip, so the "barrels" can not be installed, which will reduce the weight of the snowmobile.

4. At the end of winter, I completely disassembled the snowmobile to determine its weight. The weight of its individual nodes turned out to be as follows:

  • caterpillar - 9 kg;
  • drive shaft assembly - 7 kg;
  • two pairs of wheels with axles - 9 kg;
  • engine and steering wheel - 25 kg; a pair of skis - 5 kg;
  • frame - 15 kg;
  • double seat with uprights - 6 kg.

In total, everything together weighs 76 kg.

The weight of some parts can be reduced even further. Still, the weight for a sled with a track of this size is quite satisfactory.

The geometric dimensions of my snowmobile are as follows: the length of the snowmobile frame is 2 m; the distance between the axles of the support wheels (rollers) - 107 cm; track width - 47 cm. Track lug spacing depends on the thickness of the conveyor belt and it must be selected empirically (I got 93 mm).

I do not give the exact dimensions and drawings of the snowmobile parts, since everyone who is going to repeat the design will focus on those parts and components that they can purchase or make on their own.

In the photo, the stages of manufacturing a snowmobile according to the above drawing diagrams:

  1. Billets of lugs of the future caterpillar.
  2. Special drive sprocket from the Buran snowmobile.
  3. Homemade track drive shaft with chain and track sprockets installed.
  4. Conveyor belt drilling jig.
  5. Track rollers with axles and brackets for attaching to the snowmobile frame.
  6. The drive from the engine of the drive shaft of the track is carried out by a chain from the motorcycle.
  7. Snowmobile frame with drive shaft and track rollers.
  8. Ski turn control mechanism.
  9. On this snowmobile, I put plastic skis from children's Chinese sleds. But the plastic from which they are made turned out to be very fragile and by the end of winter one of the skis broke.
  10. Skis from the Argomak snow-scooter with an installed undercut (ridge) and mounting angles for installation on a snowmobile.
  11. Ski sleeves. It's very simple: no bearings. It is only necessary to apply lubricant to the threads, and a long service life is ensured. In addition, the ride height of the snowmobile can be changed by screwing in or out the hoses.
  12. The axle of the front wheels (track rollers) is fixed to the frame, and the axle of the rear wheel-rollers, by rotating the bolt, can be moved to adjust the track tension.

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