On the Cherie Tigo crossover in the back of T11 are used gasoline engines volumes of 2.0 and 2.4. liters, produced by Mitsubishi. Maintenance of the gas distribution mechanism (in particular, replacing the belt and rollers) is very difficult. By the way, this is a characteristic feature of all most motors of this Japanese company... The features of replacing the timing belt Cherie Tigo 2.0 and 2.4 liters will be discussed today.
In the construction of these power units two balancing shafts are provided. This means that in addition to what you have to, you will need to purchase four rollers for replacement: an intermediate one, a tensioner and rollers of the balancing shafts. It is also imperative to install a new tensioner mechanism with each belt replacement: in this car it is hydraulic, and the manufacturer recommends changing it together with timing belt.
In addition, it is also recommended to simultaneously change the balancing shaft drive belt, which, of course, will also have to spend money. So, we stock up on the necessary tools and perform operations in the following sequence:
Please note that when installing the belt, you must carefully monitor the coincidence of the marks. It is also strongly recommended to buy only the original balancing shaft drive belt, since its premature failure is fraught with very serious breakdowns.
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The Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant constantly pleases its fans with new products and updates. UAZ Patriot recently appeared on sale with automatic transmission, and the middle-aged Hunter model has acquired new version Expedition.
But this time, the company announced that in 2020 a frame car with four-wheel drive and rich equipment. And even details about the new car have already become known, and, most likely, the novelty will press Land cruiser Prado.
Modern design. The new car will receive LED optics, which were developed in Russia. In terms of design, it will have little resemblance to previous models. After all, it was developed from scratch. 500 million rubles have already been invested in the production of the model. Of these, 30% of investments are owned by the state.
A pickup, van and minivan will also be created on the basis of the new car. Already from a few photographs it is clear that the design has become lighter, the body lines are smooth, and the height of the car has decreased. All these techniques should have a beneficial effect on the aerodynamics of the car. After all, UAZ Patriot dynamics was always his weak point. Therefore, the designers are trying to make an SUV of a new level.
Technical equipment. A completely new turbo engine with a capacity of 180 hp, which is the brand's own development, will be installed as an engine. It must provide good dynamics to the car. The default transmission will be a five-speed manual. But in the top versions, a six-speed automatic will be installed on the SUV. All transmissions will be in-house developed. Still, the dynamics should be better on a car with a mechanic.
Now about safety. The new car will be equipped with a modernized frame, which will receive crumple zones. This was done in order to comply with the EuroNCAP requirements.
The handling of the new SUV should also improve. After all, an independent suspension will be installed in front, and a spring suspension at the rear. There will be no spring now. Due to such solutions, it is possible to manage new car will be better than the previous models of the Ulyanovsk brand.
Equipment. The electronic stuffing will be pretty good. New SUV will receive climate control, multimedia center, ABS, ESP, rear view camera and much more. But the most important innovation will be the new architecture in the cabin. There will now be improved finishing materials. But the manufacturer is also preparing a new dashboard and wheel... The interior should be as close to the premium segment as possible.
15.04.2014
Replace the timing on the 1.8 Acteco engine by yourself. Chery tiggo? No problem!
Let's start our work by choosing necessary tool: A set of keys (sizes 16 and 18 are required), A set of hexagons, a jack with a stand (or two jacks), and a plate (for fixing operations) is also useful. Do not forget to prepare the belt itself before starting work.
Let's start disassembling the necessary units:
Put the engine in fifth gear and tighten the handbrake. Raise the front right side of the car and remove the wheel. We support the engine with the second jack (it will need to be raised). Do not forget to substitute anything, in order to avoid dents or breakages of the pallet, for example, a board.
- We shoot expansion tank after pulling out the tubes.
- We remove the engine support, unscrew the four bolts and two nuts.
- We remove the plastic parts (protection and fender liner).
So we got to the video drive belt(We remove it using the key 16).
- The next step is to remove the tensioner mechanism. So we got to the casing attachment (under the tensioner mechanism).
* At this stage, it is possible to assess structural bearings for defects.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley ( the bolt is in the center, you do not need to unscrew it!)
We continue to work:
- We unscrew three bolts, remove the covers - upper and lower.
- We shoot high voltage wires, unscrew the candles, turn off the knock sensor, disconnect the crankcase ventilation pipe. You will also need to remove the valve cover (to fix the shafts, there are recesses in the back).
The most important point, is the setting of marks on the crankshaft and timing shafts (installing the crankshaft at a service point). We move the gear pulleys (by turning crankshaft) until all the labels match. Marks of camshafts, gear shafts are set horizontally.
* One way correct installation the positions of the shafts are four rods of the same length, lowered into the candle wells. In the correct position of the crankshaft, the rods become straight.
- We fix the shafts in the correct position using a plate prepared in advance (setting it in a horizontal position). Then we can loosen the tension roller fixing bolt.
- We rotate the roller using an Allen key until the timing belt is completely sagged. The belt can be removed.
- Carefully fill in the new timing belt and make sure that the crankshaft does not change its position.When installing the belt, it is necessary to keep it taut (Otherwise, sagging will form between the pulleys camshafts).
- We tighten the belt by rotating the tension roller until the arrow and the slot coincide (after which we fix the roller).
Do not neglect to check the correct installation of the belt!
You did everything correctly if: The crankshaft is at the service point and the marks on the camshaft pulleys match. All retainers can be removed.
In order to be sure and calm yourself completely, slowly turn the crankshaft and make sure that nothing is stuck and the piston does not intersect with the valves.
We carry out the assembly in the reverse order, trying not to forget anything, not to rip, not to overtighten, and even more so not to fall short.
The timing must be changed according to the maintenance regulations. Do not look at the fact that your old one looks like it has just come out of the store (this is deceptive), it may have hidden defects, and even during use, it eventually loses its properties.
51 52 53 ..Chery Tiggo 2005. Foam in expansion tank
There are several reasons for the appearance and formation of foam in the expansion tank. But there are only two main ones:
1) Coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) purchased for a car, not itself best quality, and sometimes the most outspoken "mess".
2) Damage (blowing out) of the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block.
Poor quality coolant
Antifreeze is an important component of any engine. It is a liquid with a special chemical composition, which is designed to cool the motor from overheating. This means that antifreeze will protect the engine from overheating and deformation at elevated temperatures. In addition, due to its chemical formula, antifreeze does not freeze even in winter. What is especially important, because in winter the car, despite the cold, is especially demanding on engine cooling.
There are four main types of antifreeze, the difference between which is their functionality and composition. Antifreeze is a kind of antifreeze. It is important to note that antifreeze is a coolant. foreign production, mainly American, and it is used in most cases for foreign cars.
Antifreeze, on the other hand, is a cooling liquid of domestic manufacturers, and is most often bought for Russian brands... The difference between antifreeze and antifreeze is mainly in the chemical composition.
The formation of foam due to the purchase of low-quality antifreeze is as follows. Coolant must be present and circulate in the car's engine at all times, even when the car is warming up. The circulation is carried out thanks to a special pump, the name of which is pump.
Thanks to the pump and the circulation of the coolant, the engine warms up evenly. As soon as a low-quality antifreeze enters the car, circulation occurs according to the same principle, but with one caveat - the air in the expansion tank, together with chemical elements, begins to bubble, coke, and as a result, foam forms.
Depending on the chemical composition, the color of the foam can even be brownish brown. Therefore, if the color of the foam turns dark, this is the first sign of poor quality coolant.
Methods for removing foam due to poor-quality antifreeze
If the cause of the problem is that antifreeze is foaming, you can fix the situation quickly, easily and independently, without resorting to the help of auto mechanics. To do this, it is enough to drain the bad antifreeze, then pour a mixture of distilled water and citric acid.
This will help get rid of the remains in the engine and the expansion tank of poor quality coolant. Then pour in "conscientious antifreeze". The whole procedure takes about half a day. You can do it yourself in your garage, or you can contact a car dealership.
Damage to the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block
Usually, the gaskets in the car box are not given special attention - "well, okay." Seemingly insignificant and not too significant details that perform "some functions there." And as soon as these very "insignificant" gaskets fail and no longer perform their functions properly, motorists literally grab their heads.
In the event of foam forming in the expansion tank, the gasket (purge) between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block can play an important role. Why is it needed at all, what is its function? Here it ensures dryness and the impossibility of the penetration of excess moisture or liquid from the cylinder head into the cylinder block.
As soon as deterioration occurs, the gasket becomes a place for free passage of air and liquid in the expansion tank. And when this happens when the machine is running, and even at high temperatures, taking into account all the laws of physics, foam is formed. It does not form immediately and in small quantities.
First, small bubbles, then large, and then - a continuous foamy mass. In this case, the formation of smoke and temperature fluctuations may also be accompanied, and the car itself, due to these malfunctions, may show all indicators on the sensors as normal.
Methods for removing foam due to damage to the gasket
In the case of foam formation in the expansion tank, precisely because of damage to the gasket between the cylinder head (cylinder head) and the cylinder block, there is only one way out - repair. Moreover, major repairs. Most often, it is necessary to change not only the gasket, but also the cylinder head and the cylinder block itself. Why?
Damage to the gasket leads to overheating of the parts, and together with the formed foam, it can lead to cracks. Cracks will become additional pathways for foam to spread, which means an additional cause of damage to the entire car.
For the price, this is approximately 30 to 50% of the cost of the car itself. According to the drivers, you shouldn't hesitate with this kind of problem, just as you shouldn't take on the problem yourself.
In Chery Tigo 1.6, the timing belt is driven by a belt. The synchronous operation of both the entire unit and the distribution and crankshafts... The manufacturer says that the belt will have to be changed after 100,000 km. It is possible that this is indeed the case, but it is still necessary to carry out diagnostic procedures from time to time in relation to the belt drive.
Signs of wear and when to change the belt
The fact is that the belt may become unusable even earlier than the period specified by the manufacturer, and the following reasons may contribute to this:
- too aggressive driving style of the driver;
- bad roads;
- local weather conditions;
- contact with the surface of oil or coolant;
- failure of the pump;
- malfunction of the rollers.
If you find that there are traces of oil on the belt, this means that you need to change not only it, but also the oil seals. Further leakage to an already new belt will cause its premature failure, because oil has a detrimental effect on rubber. The presence of backlash or other defects on the rollers indicates that it is also better to replace them, because very soon they will become unusable anyway, but then the mechanism will have to be disassembled only because of them.
But what external signs indicate that this consumable must be replaced immediately:
- the surface is covered with cracks;
- swelling appeared;
- the ends are disheveled.
It was not by chance that it was said about immediate replacement in case of detection of such defects. If the belt is not replaced, when defects appear on it, then in the future it may break off, and this is already very unpleasant, since it will require major repairs. Judge for yourself: an interruption in the transmission will cause the pistons to collide with the valves. This will deform the latter. So it turns out that if you are too lazy to change a defective consumable, you will have to spend money and time on overhaul machine that could have been avoided.
Of course, you can entrust repairs to specialists, but this article is written for those who are used to doing everything with their own hands. The cost of a new consumable reaches 5,000 rubles. If you add the cost of repairs to this, you get a rather large amount, if you also keep in mind that in addition to the belt itself, some more parts will have to be changed - rollers, oil seals, and possibly something else.
When buying a new consumable, you should not save money, since a poor-quality belt will very quickly become unusable, and you will have to change it again. Therefore, do not buy consumables from hand, but rather save on repairs - make it yourself. In addition to saving money, you will also receive invaluable repair experience, which will definitely come in handy in the future.
If you decide that you will do the repair yourself, then prepare a set of keys, a jack, fix the car on a level surface and start.
Replacing the belt drive
First, remove the right wheel, raise the engine and jack it up. Now we need to dismantle the expansion barrel. To do this, you will have to remove the tube and remove the barrel from its fasteners.
We remove the engine support. This will require loosening four bolts. It is also necessary to dismantle the fender liner and plastic motor protection.
Now we need a 16 key. With it we will remove the roller together with the tensioning mechanism. Under it is a hidden housing bolt. Now we can easily unscrew it. We check the play on the rollers and the condition of the bearings. If it is unsatisfactory, the bearings should be replaced without hesitation.
Now you can start dismantling the crankshaft pulley. When removing the crankshaft, its central bolt does not need to be unscrewed, but the bypass horn must be dismantled. The rest of the mount is now removed. To do this, you need to unscrew 3 bolts. We also dismantle both cases - the lower and the upper. After that, the valve cover is removed, the candles are unscrewed and the gas outlet pipe is removed.
The crankshaft must be at dead center. It is necessary to move the toothed pulleys until the marks are completely aligned.
There is another way you can adjust the crankshaft to get it in the right position. We take 4 rods and lower them into the seats for the candles. They will be positioned exactly when the crankshaft is in the correct position. We fix the shafts with a special metal plate. We loosen the tension roller and turn it until the belt looses. We use a hexagon for turning. The belt can now be easily removed.
Now we are starting to install a new consumable. During this, take care not to misalign the crankshaft. We rotate the tension roller in order to tighten the belt. The tension should be optimal: the belt should not sag, it should not be overtightened, and the slots should align with the arrow. The marks on the upper pulleys should line up. If this does not happen, then the node is assembled incorrectly. In this case, the lower crankshaft must be at dead center. Now we loosen the fastening bolts toothed pulleys... In this case, the lower crankshaft must be fixed with a key. This is done so that the fixing plate does not bend.
We unscrew the bolt plug on the engine. It is located on its front. We turn the lower crankshaft and fix it with a pin. Checking the pistons. They should be level. After that, all bolts are tightened and all components are assembled in the reverse order of disassembly.
Replacement using the example of engine 1.8 (for 1.6 it is the same)
