Toyota Corolla E150 (2010+). Major car malfunctions - part 1
DROP IN COOLANT LEVEL IN EXPANSION TANK
| Diagnostics | Elimination methods | |
|---|---|---|
| Damage to the radiator, expansion tank, hoses, loosening of their fit on the pipes | Inspection. The tightness of the radiators (engine and heater) is checked in a water bath with compressed air at a pressure of 1 bar | Replace damaged parts |
| Fluid leaking through the coolant pump oil seal | Inspection | Replace pump |
| The cylinder head gasket is damaged. Defective block or cylinder head | There is a whitish emulsion on the oil level indicator. The appearance of abundant white smoke from the muffler and oil stains on the surface of the coolant (in the expansion tank). Coolant leaks on the outer surface of the engine | Replace damaged parts. Do not use water in the cooling system, fill in coolant suitable for the climatic conditions |
EXTERNAL NOISES AND KNOCKS IN THE ENGINE
| Scroll possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Check the clearances | Adjust clearances | |
| Repair the engine | ||
| The timing belt is worn out. Defective idler or support rollers of the drive | Inspection | Replace the belt. Replace the faulty timing idler or support rollers |
| Worn bearings and cams of the camshaft, connecting rod and main bearings of the crankshaft, pistons, piston pins, play or sticking in generator bearings, coolant pumps and power steering | Examination | Repair or replacement of parts |
| Lost elasticity or collapsed one or more bearings of the power unit | Inspection | Replace support |
| Low pressure in the oil line (at the minimum speed of the crankshaft at idle speed, the pressure in the lubrication system of a warm engine must be at least 1.0 bar) | Check the pressure in the lubrication system. You can measure the pressure by connecting the pressure gauge to the oil line, unscrewing the oil pressure sensor | Troubleshoot the lubrication system |
| Worn oil pump drive chain | Checking the chain tension after removing the oil pan | Replace the oil pump drive chain |
STRONG ENGINE VIBRATION
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Unevenness of compression in the cylinders of more than 2.0 bar: clearances in the valve drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, seats; wear, burial or breakage piston rings | Checking the compression. Compression must be at least 11.0 bar | |
| Use an ohmmeter to check for an open or "breakdown" of the ignition coil winding and high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. Under severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years | |
| The high voltage wires are connected to the ignition coil in the wrong order; one or more wires are disconnected | Inspection | Connect the wires according to the markings on the ignition coil |
| Check the candles | Replace defective spark plugs | |
| Open or short circuit in the injector windings or their circuits | Check with an ohmmeter the windings of the injectors and their circuits | |
| The support of the power unit has lost its elasticity or collapsed, their fastening has weakened | Inspection | Replace supports, tighten fasteners |
INCREASED CONTENT OF HARMFUL SUBSTANCES IN EXHAUST GASES
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Nozzles are leaking (overflow) or their nozzles are dirty | Check the tightness and spray pattern of the nozzles | Contaminated nozzles can be flushed out on a special stand. Replace leaking and heavily soiled nozzles |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | For check high-voltage wires and replace the ignition coils with a known good one. | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high voltage wires. In severe operating conditions (salt on the roads, frosts, alternating with thaws), it is advisable to replace the wires every 3 to 5 years |
| Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the center electrode | Check the candles | Replace defective spark plugs |
| Faulty air temperature sensor in the intake manifold or its circuit | Use a tester to check if the sensor is working properly. | |
| Defective coolant temperature sensor | Replace defective sensor | |
| Check the condition of the position sensor throttle | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor | |
| Defective oxygen concentration sensor or its circuits | It is possible to evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of its electrical connections using diagnostic equipment | |
| Defective absolute air pressure sensor and its circuits | You can check the health of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| Defective ECU or its circuits | Restore contacts in electrical circuits. Replace defective ECU | |
| Leakage of the exhaust system in the area between the exhaust manifold and the front pipe | Inspection at medium speed of the crankshaft | Replace defective gasket, tighten screw connections |
| Defective catalytic converter of exhaust gases | You can check the serviceability of the catalytic converter of the exhaust gases using diagnostic equipment | Replace the catalytic converter |
| Increased pressure in fuel system due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Inspection, checking the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (no more than 3.5 bar) at idle speed | |
| Increased resistance to air flow in the intake tract | Check item air filter, inlet tract (absence of foreign objects, leaves, etc.) | Clean the intake tract, replace the dirty air filter element |
| Large amounts of oil entering the engine combustion chambers due to worn or damaged valve stem seals, valve stems, valve guides, piston rings, pistons and cylinders | Inspection after disassembling the engine | Repair the engine |
The clutch does not fully engage (slips)
| Driven disc pads are badly worn | Replace driven disc |
| Oiling the flywheel, drive disc, friction linings | Wash the driven and driving discs with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of oiling (replace oil seals) |
| Breakage of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
| The diaphragm spring of the driving disc is faulty |
Clutch does not disengage (leads)
| Possible reasons malfunctions | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Air in the hydraulic clutch release | Bleed the clutch release hydraulic actuator |
| Misalignment or warpage of the driven disc | Replace driven disc |
| Diaphragm spring petals wear at the point of contact with release bearing | Replace drive disc assembly |
| Seizing the hub of the driven disc on the splines input shaft gearbox | Inspect the splines; if the hub is severely damaged, replace the driven disc. Before assembly, coat the gearbox shaft splines with SHRUS-4 grease |
| The driven disc is "stuck" to the flywheel or drive disc (after a long stay) | Place wheel chocks, engage first gear and the parking brake. Squeezing the brake and clutch pedals at the same time, turn the starter crankshaft engine |
The clutch pedal "falls through" or is pressed very easily
Jerks when starting off
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Oiling of the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disc | Remove the driven and driving discs, wash the parts with white spirit or gasoline, wipe the working surfaces of the discs and flywheel. Eliminate the cause of the oiling (replace the gearbox or engine oil seal) |
| The friction linings of the driven disc are badly worn | Replace driven disc |
| Settlement or breakage of the springs of the torsional vibration damper, wear of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace driven disc |
| Loss of elasticity of the driven disc springs | Replace driven disc |
| Sticking of the driven disc on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox, severe wear of the splines of the disc hub | If the splines of the hub are severely worn, replace the driven disc. Apply grease SHRUS-4 to the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox |
| Broken clutch diaphragm spring | Replace drive disc assembly |
| Defective support of the power unit | Inspect supports, replace faulty |
Noise when disengaging or engaging the clutch
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Clutch pedal bushings wear | Remove the pedal, replace the bushings of its axle |
| Heavy settlement, breakage of torsional vibration damper springs | Replace driven disc |
| Looseness or breakage of the friction linings of the driven disc | Replace driven disc |
| Severe wear or damage to the clutch release bearing | Replace bearing assembly with slave cylinder |
Noise in the gearbox (noise disappears when the clutch is disengaged)
Gearbox noise (noise when driving in a specific gear)
Transmissions are difficult to turn on
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Defective clutch | Diagnose faults with clinging |
| Defective (torn, loose, stuck in the sheath) selection cable or gearshift cable | Replace the defective cable |
| Replace mechanism | |
| Worn or damaged gearshift mechanism | |
| Gear synchronizers worn out | Repair or replace the transmission |
The gears are spontaneously switched off
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Worn gearshift mechanism | Repair or replace the transmission |
| Worn or damaged gearbox control mechanism | Diagnose the problem "Transmissions are included with difficulty" |
| Worn out clutches of gears of gearbox synchronizers | Repair or replace the transmission |
Oil leak from the box
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Oil seals of the input shaft, gearshift mechanism or wheel drive shafts are worn out | Replace defective oil seal |
| Oil leakage through the crankcase joints | Repair the transmission |
| Oil leak through the sensor reverse and vehicle speed sensor | Install the reverse sensor to the sealant. Replace speed sensor rubber o-rings |
Leakage of working fluid of an automatic transmission
| Possible causes of the malfunction | Troubleshooting |
|---|---|
| Transmission fluid leaking through the oil pan seal | Fluid leaks on the transmission housing. Tighten the pallet fixing screws, replace the pallet gasket |
| Liquid leaks from the level indicator | Insert the pointer as far as it will go, replace it if necessary |
| Fluid leaks from the coolant tube fittings | Tighten the fittings |
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE SUFFICIENT DRIVING RATE. JUMPS AND SLOPES WHEN MOVING
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter (back pressure) (STO) | ||
| Suction of extraneous air into the intake tract | Inspect the joints, check the fit of the throttle assembly, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors. Disconnect for a short time vacuum amplifier brake by plugging the inlet pipe union | Replace gaskets, o-rings, parts with deformed flanges, defective vacuum booster |
| Incomplete throttle opening | Determined visually with the engine stopped | Adjust the throttle actuator |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): worn or damaged valves, their guides and seats, stuck or broken piston rings | Check the compression | Replace defective parts |
| The gaps between the electrodes of the candles are not correct | Check the clearances | By bending the side electrode, set the required gap or replace the spark plugs |
| Heavy carbon deposits on spark plug electrodes; the ingress of carbon particles into the gap between the electrodes | Inspection | Check and replace if necessary |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits | Replace damaged ignition coil, high voltage wires | |
| Not enough fuel in the tank | Fuel level indicator and fuel reserve indicator | Add fuel |
| Clogged fuel filter, the water that has got into the power system has frozen, deformed fuel pipes | Check the pressure in the fuel system | Replace the fuel filter. In winter, place the car in warm garage, blow out fuel lines. Replace defective hoses and tubes |
| The fuel pump does not create the necessary pressure in the system | Check the pressure in the fuel system, make sure the filter of the fuel module is clean | Clean the fuel module strainer. Defective fuel pump, replace pressure regulator |
| Poor power contact fuel pump(including ground wires) | Checked with an ohmmeter | Strip the contacts, crimp the lugs of the wires, replace the faulty wires |
| Faulty injectors or their circuits | Check the injector windings and their circuits with an ohmmeter (no open circuit and short circuit) | Replace defective injectors, ensure contact in electrical circuits |
| Air temperature sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check the sensor and its circuits | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Defective absolute air pressure sensor or its circuits | You can evaluate the performance of the absolute air pressure sensor using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Repair damaged electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor | ||
| Defective ECU or its circuit | To test the ECU, replace it with a known good one. | Replace defective ECU |
| Valve clearances not adjusted | ||
| Heavy wear on the camshaft cams | Inspection when disassembling the engine at the service station | Replace the worn camshaft at the workshop |
| Settling or breakage of valve springs | Inspection when disassembling the engine | |
| The throttle position sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check Throttle Position Sensor | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Coolant temperature sensor defective | Check the resistance of the sensor with a tester at different temperatures | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
COTTONS IN INLET PIPE
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearances not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve drive clearances |
| Intake valves sticking in guide bushings: resinous deposits on the surface of the valve stem or bushing, sludge or broken valve springs | Inspection during disassembly of the engine (STO) | Repair the engine (SRT) |
| The valve timing is violated | Check valve timing | Establish the correct relative position of the crankshaft and camshafts... Check the compression |
SHOTS IN THE SILENCER
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Valve clearances not adjusted | Check valve clearances | Adjust valve drive clearances |
| Exhaust valves sticking in bushings: increased wear on the valve stem or bushing, sludge or broken valve springs | Inspection when disassembling the engine | Have the engine repaired at a service station |
| The valve timing is violated | Check valve timing | Establish the correct alignment of the shafts. Check the compression |
| Candles are checked at a special stand (STO). The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude about its performance | Replace candles | |
| Damage to the insulation of high-voltage devices and circuits - interruptions in sparking | With an ohmmeter, check for an open or "breakdown" (short to "ground") of the ignition coil windings, high-voltage wires | Replace the faulty ignition coil, damaged high-voltage wires (while disconnecting the wire, pull on its tip). In severe operating conditions, it is advisable to replace the wires every 3-5 years |
| Injectors defective | Check the operation of the injectors |
INCREASED OIL CONSUMPTION (MORE THAN 500 G PER 1000 KM RUN)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Oil leakage through: crankshaft and camshaft oil seals; oil pan gaskets, cylinder heads; oil pressure sensor; oil filter o-ring | Wash the engine, then, after a short run, inspect for possible leaks. | Tighten the fastening elements of the cylinder head, cylinder head cover, oil pan, replace worn oil seals and gaskets |
| Wear, loss of elasticity of the valve stem seals (valve seals). Wear of valve stems, guide bushings | Inspection of parts when disassembling the engine | Replace worn parts |
| Worn, broken or coking (loss of mobility) piston rings. Wear of pistons, cylinders | Inspection and measurement of parts after disassembling the engine | Replace worn pistons and rings. Waste and honed cylinders |
| Using oil with inappropriate viscosity | - | Change oil |
| Clogged crankcase ventilation system | Inspection | Clean the ventilation system |
INCREASED FUEL CONSUMPTION
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Replacement air filter element clogged | Check the condition of the replacement air filter element | Purge or replace replacement air filter element |
| Leakage of the power supply system | Gasoline smell, fuel drips | Check the tightness of the connections of the elements of the fuel system; if a defect is found, replace the corresponding components |
| Defective spark plugs: current leakage through cracks in the insulator or carbon deposits on the heat cone, poor contact of the central electrode | Candles are checked at a special stand at the service station. The absence of external damage and sparking between the electrodes on an inverted candle does not allow us to conclude about its performance | Replace candles |
| Throttle Actuator Malfunction | Check the travel of the gas pedal, the clearance in the drive (pedal free travel), make sure that the cable and pedal are not jammed | Replace defective parts, lubricate the cable with engine oil |
| Defective regulator idle move or his chains | Substitute a known-good regulator | Replace faulty regulator |
| The throttle valve does not close completely | The gap between the throttle valve and the walls of the case is visible in the clearance | Replace throttle assembly |
| Increased pressure in fuel line due to a malfunction of the pressure regulator | Check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge (not more than 3.5 bar) | Replace faulty regulator |
| Leaky injectors | Check injectors | Replace defective injectors |
| The coolant temperature sensor or its circuits are faulty | Check the resistance of the sensor with an ohmmeter at different temperatures | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Defective oxygen concentration sensor | You can evaluate the performance of the oxygen concentration sensor and the reliability of the connections of its electrical circuits using diagnostic equipment at the service station | Repair damaged electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor |
| Defective ECU or its circuit | To test, replace with a known-good ECU. | Replace the faulty ECU, repair damaged electrical circuits |
| Low compression in the engine cylinders (less than 11.0 bar): clearances in the drive are not adjusted, wear or damage to valves, their guides and seats, stuck or broken piston rings | Check the compression | Adjust the valve drive clearances. Replace defective parts |
| Defective throttle position sensor, absolute pressure and air temperature sensors in the intake manifold or their circuits | Check the sensors and their circuits | Restore the contact in the electrical circuits, replace the faulty sensor (s) |
| Increased resistance to gas movement in the exhaust system | Inspect the exhaust system for dented and damaged pipes, check the condition of the catalytic converter | Replace damaged parts of the exhaust system |
| Running gear and brake system malfunctions | Check undercarriage components and brake system | Adjust the wheel alignment angles, replace faulty chassis parts, fix malfunctions in the brake system |
ENGINE KNOCKING (HIGH TONE METAL KNOCKS, ARISING AS A RULE, WHEN THE ENGINE IS RUNNING UNDER LOAD, ESPECIALLY AT LOW SPEEDS, FOR EXAMPLE RELEASE ACCELERATION, ETC., AND DECREASE)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| - | ||
| Overheating of the engine | According to the coolant temperature gauge | Eliminate the cause of overheating ( "The engine gets very hot") |
| Inspection after removing the cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation ( Diagnose the problem "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oils of the recommended viscosity and, if possible, with a low ash content. | |
| Spark plugs with an inappropriate glow number are used | - | Use candles recommended by the manufacturer |
INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE (INSUFFICIENT OIL PRESSURE SIGNAL ON)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Low engine oil | Oil level indicator | Add oil |
| Defective oil filter | Replace the filter with a known good filter | Replace defective oil filter |
| Loose tightening of the drive pulley mounting bolt auxiliary units | Check bolt tightness | Tighten the bolt to the prescribed torque. |
| Clogged mesh of the oil receiver | Inspection | Clear the mesh |
| Misalignment, clogging pressure reducing valve oil pump or valve spring loosening | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace defective pressure reducing valve. Replace pump |
| Worn oil pump gears | Replace oil pump | |
| Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | Determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn out earbuds. Replace or repair the crankshaft if necessary |
| Defective sensor insufficient pressure oils | We unscrew the insufficient oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace the faulty oil pressure sensor |
ENGINE OVERHEATS (ENGINE OVERHEAT SIGNAL ON)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Defective thermostat | Check the thermostat is working | Replace defective thermostat |
| Insufficient amount of coolant | The liquid level is below the "MIN" mark by expansion tank | Eliminate leaks. Add coolant |
| There is a lot of limescale in the cooling system | - | Flush the cooling system with a descaler. Do not use hard water in the cooling system. Dilute concentrated antifreeze only with distilled water. |
| Radiator cells dirty | Inspection | Flush the radiator with a high-pressure water jet |
| Coolant pump defective | Remove the pump and inspect the assembly | Replace pump assembly |
| The cooling fan does not turn on | Check the fan switching circuits | Re-establish contact in electrical circuits. Defective fuse, relay, cooling fan, temperature sensor, ECU - replace |
| Unacceptably low octane number of gasoline | - | Refuel the vehicle with the fuel recommended by the manufacturer |
| There is a lot of carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, on the piston crowns, valve plates | Inspection after removing the engine cylinder head | Eliminate the cause of carbon formation (see. "Increased fuel consumption" ,"Increased oil consumption"). Use oil with the recommended viscosity and, if possible, with a low ash content. |
| Breakthrough of exhaust gases into the cooling system through a damaged cylinder head gasket | Exhaust gas smells in the expansion tank and bubbles float up | Replace the cylinder head gasket. Check for flatness of the cylinder head |
ENGINE COOLING FAN RUNNING CONSTANTLY (EVEN ON A COLD ENGINE)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Open in the coolant temperature sensor or its circuit | The sensor and circuits are checked with an ohmmeter | Re-establish contact in electrical circuits. Replace defective sensor |
| The contacts of the relay for switching on the fan do not open | Tester check | Replace defective relay |
| Defective ECU or its circuits | Check ECU or replace with a known good ECU. | Replace defective ECU |
Surely, each of us has seen a car like the Toyota Corolla. This model has been produced since the 90s. However, it gained the greatest popularity with the release of a new, tenth generation, which was produced until 2013.
The car has become iconic and recognizable on the roads. Why did she receive such recognition? About what "Toyota Corolla" (2008) reviews have, specifications and prices, see our today's article.
The tenth generation of the car in the back of the 150 looks much more impressive than the previous one, the owners say.
However, the car is also devoid of any aggressiveness. It's a humble city car. Smooth lines prevail in the body. Due to the new bumpers and optics, the car looks more presentable. The hood, as on the Camry, is very short, according to the reviews of the owners. However, there is often no work to be done there. The car is quite reliable and, apart from replacing consumables, does not require maintenance. In terms of dimensions, the 2008 Toyota Corolla belongs to the C-class of cars. So, the body length is 4.55 m, the width is 1.76 m, and the height is 1.47 m.
What is the clearance of the Toyota Corolla (2008)? The owners' reviews say that the ground clearance of 15 centimeters is enough for the car. She easily overcomes bumps due to short overhangs and a wheelbase. By the way, the length of the latter is 2.6 meters. The back of the car "Toyota Corolla" (2008) is made in the classic Japanese style. There are no expressive forms and outlines here. The design of the car is as modest as possible, while not poor. There is a wide chrome trim in the center of the boot lid. Above it is the corporate logo of the company. The headlights are two-piece. The optics burn quite brightly.
Let's move inside the Toyota Corolla car. The interior of the car is a continuation of its design. Here, too, everything is very modest, yet neat. You don't feel like an owner inside budget car... "Corolla" in the tenth generation is a kind of layer between the budget and business class. The architecture of the front panel is built smoothly and without frills. A minimum of chrome parts in the cabin. In the center there is a modest radio tape recorder, a climate control unit and a niche for small things. All this is neatly decorated with a silver aluminum insert. Wheel- three-spoke, supplemented with buttons remote control... On the sides there are two paddle shifters.
The instrument panel is made in color. On the left side of the driver is the power window control unit, and on the right is a comfortable armrest. There is a small compartment under its lid for storing small items.
The seats have poor lateral support. At the same time, the manufacturer did not deprive them of adjustments. Owner reviews say that the chair can be quickly adjusted "for yourself." There is enough space in the back for three people. Their heads do not rest against the ceiling. By the way, there is no central tunnel inside, which eats up the free space so much.
Does the car have a second armrest? Here it is also available. Additionally, it is equipped with two cup holders.
What is very important for the C-class is the size of the luggage compartment. The volume of a Toyota Corolla is 450 liters. In this case, there is a function of folding the rear seats. This allows you to transport things custom sizes... There is not enough space under the boot floor. It is barely enough for the factory "dock". However, the interior is made very high quality and taking into account ergonomics.
Specifications: Toyota Corolla (2008)
Let's take a look under the hood of this Japanese car.
What is the Toyota Corolla (2008) engine? In total, the line contains two power unit... Both are atmospheric, 16 valves. The units comply with the Euro-4 environmental standard and are equipped with sequential distributed injection. Let's take a look at each engine separately.
Corolla 1.3
This motor is quite rare in the Russian open spaces. This gasoline unit, with its volume of 1.3 liters, produces 101 horsepower power. The maximum torque for a car with this engine is 132 Nm. Full power is revealed from 3.8 thousand revolutions.
Of course, for a car of this class, this engine gives out weak technical characteristics. "Toyota Corolla" (2008) with a 1.3 engine accelerates to one hundred kilometers per hour in "eternal" 13 and a half seconds. Maximum speed is 180 kilometers per hour.
However, the car has a very moderate fuel consumption. For a hundred kilometers in mixed mode, it consumes 5.8 liters of the 95th. However, the car does not like overloads. When fully loaded, consumption can increase by 20 percent. This is a characteristic feature of all low-power motors.
What is the gearbox for the 1.3-liter Toyota Corolla (2008)? The 6-speed mechanics is the only transmission that this unit is equipped with.
Corolla 1.6
This is the most popular version of the Corolla in Russia. It is completed with a four-speed automatic transmission. As for the engine itself, its power is 124 horsepower.
The unit has more decent technical characteristics. Toyota Corolla (2008) with a 1.6 engine accelerates to a hundred in 11 and a half seconds (despite the fact that the curb weight of the car is 1300 kilograms). The engine torque is 157 Nm. It is available at 5.2 thousand rpm. Fuel consumption is not much different from the previous unit - up to 7 liters per 100 kilometers.
Also note that versions 1.6 were released on the mechanics. In this case, the machine was gaining a hundred a second earlier. The maximum speed on the machine is 183 kilometers per hour. On mechanics - up to 192.
Conclusion
So, we found out what the technical characteristics of the Toyota Corolla (2008) have. Today this car can be bought for 400-600 thousand rubles.
Why do the owners love her? First of all, for reliability. If you need a car for every day that would not require constant repairs, you should definitely pay attention to this Toyota.
On secondary market there are many copies left in decent condition. The car body is painted with high quality, does not rust. Automatic box has a resource of 300 or more thousand kilometers, subject to regular replacement transmission oil(every 60 thousand kilometers). This Japanese car is noteworthy.
Watch an interesting video on this topic
Dimensions Toyota Corolla the current generation has increased when you compare the dimensions of the sedan with the previous version of the Corolla. Perhaps the most significant increase in size occurred in the cabin, as the wheelbase (the distance between the front and rear axles) has grown by 10 centimeters.
Total body length new Toyota Corolla 4 620 mm, while the previous generation of the sedan was only 4 540 mm in length. The base, which determines the space in the cabin, has increased from 2,600 mm to 2,700 mm, making the Corolla the leader in this indicator in its class. Width new version car 1775 mm versus 1760 mm. In order to improve the aerodynamic performance, the body height has been lowered by 5 mm.
Dimensions, dimensions Toyota Corolla
- Length - 4620 mm
- Width - 1775 mm
- Height - 1465 mm
- Wheelbase - 2700 mm
- Front and rear wheel track - 1535/1535 mm
- Front / rear overhang - 940/980 mm
- Cabin length - 1930 mm
- Interior width - 1485 mm
- Interior height - 1190 mm
- Trunk volume Toyota Corolla - 452 liters
- Volume fuel tank- 55 liters
- Tire size - 195/65 R15, 205/55 R16
- Ground clearance or clearance of Toyota Corolla - 150 mm
Toyota Corolla ground clearance is 150 mm, while for European consumers this figure is slightly less and is 145 mm. The manufacturer has specially increased ground clearance due to the peculiarity of the road surface in our country.
Toyota Corolla trunk the new generation has also become a little larger and holds 452 liters of volume, taking into account the fact that under the floor luggage compartment there is also a full-size spare wheel, it turns out to be a pretty decent indicator. Backrests rear seat Corolla folds in a ratio of 40 to 60, making the transportation of various things much more convenient, see the photo.
By the way, the trunk volume of the last 10th generation sedan was 450 liters. In this regard, little has changed. The loading opening is quite wide, which is very convenient for transporting all kinds of bulky suitcases and boxes.
In 2006, Toyota presented the 10th generation of cars of the Corolla family: Toyota Corolla X (E140 / 150). The car was produced in a single body version - a sedan, and differed from the previous generation E120 in a more modern and solid appearance, as well as significantly increased dimensions.
Dimensions Toyota Corolla X:
- length - 4540 mm;
- width - 1760 mm;
- height - 1470 mm;
- wheelbase size - 2600 mm;
- clearance of vehicles intended for Russian market- 150 mm.
This Coroll model was and continues to be in great demand among motorists and, in addition, was highly appreciated by experts. Thus, as a result of crash tests conducted by the independent European organization EuroNCAP, Toyota Corolla E140 became the first C-class car to receive five stars in the entire history of this organization. This was achieved thanks to the excellent safety system: up to seven airbags were installed in the cars, depending on the equipment; the front seats have a neck injury prevention device; there is a system that notifies you of unfastened seat belts and so on.
Difference between E140 and E150
A common mistake among car enthusiasts is the 140 and 150 misconception Toyota models Corolla X. Many believe that the 140 series is pre-styling, and the 150 has been released since 2010. To dispel this misconception, it should be clarified: this is the same model produced for different countries.
Toyota Corolla E140 is shown in the photo below. It was produced for the USA, UAE, Thailand and some other countries and has the following differences:
- Cars were equipped with 1.8- and 2.4-liter engines.
- The front optics are equipped with running lights (DRL), the number of reversing lights is paired, fog lights are not provided in this version.
- The rear suspension of most cars is independent, spring type.
- Rear disc brakes.
- The body kit of the main body elements: bumpers, fenders and sills - S and XRS series.
- Body marking - E140.
Toyota Corolla E150 cars (see photo) were produced for Europe, England and the countries of the former USSR. They have the following distinctive features:
- The interior is in dark colors; dashboard Optitron type (with displays).
- There are no DRL headlights in the front optics; rear fog lights and one reversing lamp are installed.
- The rear suspension is represented by a beam. For Russian roads, a special suspension design is provided, in which rear bumper raised slightly and the consumables are more durable.
- Rear brakes only in standard configuration- disk.
- Engines with a volume of 1.4 and 1.6 liters.
- Body marking - 150.
- Different from the American model, the body kit for the bumper and fenders.
Appearance of the 10th generation Toyota Corolla
Corolla in the 150 body has gone through two updates, and the last, in 2010, was more dramatic. The changes affected both appearance vehicle and interior equipment.
As a result of restyling, the car received a bumper of a different configuration, an enlarged air intake, a chrome-plated radiator grille, the shape of the front and rear lights, the design wheel rims, turn signal repeaters appeared on the rear-view mirrors.
The changes also affected the interior. It has an improved audio system with USB-connector and Bluetooth support. Expensive equipment get a good quality reversing camera with a display integrated in the rearview mirror. The upholstery was made with materials more High Quality, in her colors added various shades of gray.
The design of the steering wheel has also undergone changes: it has become flat at the bottom and received a thicker rim. The instrument lighting has changed from orange to white, which has improved their visibility.
The updates also affected the control system: it became possible to open the trunk using a button located on the ignition key, the front seats in all trim levels are equipped with electric windows.
Specifications Coroll in 150 body
The tenth generation Toyota Corolla is equipped with two types gasoline engines, with working volumes of 1.33 and 1.6 liters. For the first, a six-speed mechanical box gears, for the second, in addition to the "mechanics", it is possible to install a four-speed automatic transmission.
Toyota Corolla engine protection will help protect the underside of the car from dirt, stones and moisture, as well as from mechanical damage. Protection can be delivered from dealers or installed after buying a car yourself. In order not to be mistaken with the choice, you should know the required dimensions for the engine crankcase for Toyota Corolla, the method of its attachment, and also understand the types of crankcase protection and manufacturers.
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 150
Usually in auto parts stores it is indicated for which brand and model of car this or that item is intended. Accordingly, owners of Toyota Corolla 150 need to look for a shield, in the name of which their model is indicated.
The following parts are suitable:
- Protection "AutoSHIT", art. 6140 - 4 mm aluminum, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 AL 5 - aluminum 5 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Alfeco protection, art. ALF.24.01 st - steel, thickness 2 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Protection "Rival", art. 333.5799.1 - aluminum 5 mm, covers the crankcase and gearbox.
- Protection "AvtoBRONYA", 111.05774.1 / 111.05799.1 - steel 2 mm
These are only the most popular options, you can buy others in the store. When choosing, be sure to pay attention to the car model and the engine - for the same model with different engines the design of the crankcase will be different!
Suitable dimensions of engine protection Toyota Corolla 150
Engine protection Toyota Corolla 2008-2012 It has standard sizes 828x640 mm. If you decide to install a crankcase protection on a Toyota Corolla 150 from another car, it is important to pay attention not only to the length and width of the part, but also to the functional holes.
Plastic engine protection Toyota Corolla
Plastic protection will protect the crankcase from contamination, but it is ineffective in case of mechanical damage. Manufacturers recommend installing aluminum or steel. Composite protection for strong blow burst, and it will be impossible to recover.
Why do you need engine protection?
- The engine crankcase protector reliably covers the underside of the vehicle, protecting important engine and gearbox components from damage when driving over uneven road sections.
- In addition, the protection closes the elements from pebbles, dirt, sand flying from the road, which, accumulating in the lower part of the car, cause premature aging and rapid wear of the elements.
- Finally, the third function of the spare part is to protect the car from theft. The fact is that in many cases, in order to start a car, intruders need to get to the wiring, which is located at the bottom of the car. The protective plate reliably covers this area and eliminates the risk of intrusion.
Thus, if you purchase a new Toyota Corolla 150 engine protection, you do not need to know its dimensions. It is enough to indicate your car model and engine number. If you plan to put protection from another car, for the Corolla 150 with a 1.6 engine, Prius, Auris and Lexus CT200h protections are suitable.
