The Audi 80 is equipped with five petrol engine options. The engine range includes both economical four-cylinder units and quite comfortable and powerful variators, for example, five-cylinder V-shaped six-cylinder engines.
General information on the car
A serial 5-speed manual transmission is installed on almost all models. Four front-wheel drive models are offered to motorists with special equipment - an electronic-hydraulic 4-speed automatic transmission. This gearbox has two driving programs: the economical "E" and the sporty "S".
Due to the presence of a hood with large "four rings" Audi car 80 was the last in lineup a car, the appearance of which has acquired modern "family" features. An integral part The overall elegant form of the car is the front and rear aprons, which are painted in body color, with integrated bumpers.
Dimensions Audi 80
The dimensions of the car have been increased compared to previous versions, making the Audi 80 look more "grown-up". The length of the new model has grown by 80 mm, the wheelbase by 70 mm and the track width by 40 mm. The car is equipped with 15-inch wheels.
The Audi 80 can be called a completely safe car if you take into account the comprehensive optimization of body rigidity, which was specially developed by Audi, procon-ten system and additional protection of the sidewalls of car doors.
In the event of a frontal collision, an unusual solution is provided for the design of the side members, which are designed in such a way that upon impact they deform and absorb the energy of the impact. In addition, the carrying system reduces the impact force.
Audi 80 B4 (Typ 8C) general information (Audi 80 B4 1991-1996)
Cylinder head ( gasoline engines) - removal, check and installation
Most of the work on the cylinder head requires a torque wrench as well as a T55 long socket wrench and an E14 wrench. From Supplies when installing the cylinder head, a corresponding new gasket is required.
1 Disconnect the ground (-) wire terminal from the battery.
2 Remove air filter on vehicles with Mono-Motronic injection system.
3 Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
4 Disconnect the coolant circulation hoses from the cylinder head.
5 Remove the ignition distributor cover along with the high voltage wires.
6 Disconnect the throttle cable.
7 Five-cylinder engine. Disconnect the power steering pump and place it in the engine compartment. Do not disconnect hydraulic hoses from the pump.
Attention! Hoses are kink sensitive.
8 Match all wires to the cylinder head and to the injectors and intake manifold.
9 Disconnect the fuel injection lines.
10 Mark the vacuum hoses at the intake manifold or at the nipple throttle and disconnect them.
11 Disconnect the hose vacuum booster brake drive.
12 Remove the upper section of the intake manifold for 5-cylinder engines. Also remove the valve injectors, but do not disconnect the fuel lines from them yet.
13 Place the valve injectors in clean, gasoline-resistant plastic bags.
14 Disconnect the cold start accelerator plug. Unscrew the valve and put it aside from the place of work, without disconnecting the fuel supply hose.
15 Mark the plug connections for the fuel injection system and disconnect them. The plugs are colored differently.
16 Five-cylinder engine. Remove the combustible ratio corrector together with the air filter housing.
17 Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
18 Four-cylinder engine.
Disconnect the upper generator mounting bracket. Before doing this, release the tension on the V-belt.
19 Remove the toothed belt guard. Loosen the tension of the toothed belt and remove it from the camshaft drive gear.
20 Remove the cylinder head cover.
21 Remove the cylinder head bolts. The sequence for unscrewing the bolts is the opposite of the sequence for tightening (see illustration).
Attention! The cylinder head must be removed from a cold engine. Otherwise, the head removed from the hot engine can "lead" after cooling.
22 Remove the cylinder head with the intake and exhaust manifolds and the ignition distributor (five-cylinder engine) attached. If the head is difficult to separate from the cylinder block, then loosen its fit by tapping with a plastic hammer.
Six-cylinder engine
The procedure for removing the cylinder head on this engine given on the example of the head of the left bank of cylinders.
Removing the head from the right row is performed in the same way.
23 Remove the engine protection cover and the ribbed belt guard.
24 Remove the ribbed belt.
25 Remove the toothed belt.
26 Disconnect the front exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold.
27 Drain the coolant from the engine through the drain hole and from the radiator through the hole on the bottom right.
28 Disconnect the air intake (air intake) box sleeve from the intake manifold.
29 Disconnect the plug from the Hall sensor.
30 Remove the crankcase ventilation hoses from the left and right sides of the cylinder head.
31 Disconnect the air hose from the air filter.
32 Disconnect the A / C low pressure and / or differential lock hose from the fitting on the left side of the throttle valve.
33 Remove the air intake along with the crankcase ventilation hoses from the engine compartment by pushing the air intake back and then lifting the entire assembly up.
34 Remove the throttle cable lock, disconnect the cable and set it aside from the place of work.
35 Disconnect the plug of the intake air temperature sensor and the idle speed control valve.
36 Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses.
37 Disconnect the ground (-) wire from the attachment behind the throttle body.
38 Disconnect the hose from the control unit upstream of the throttle body.
39 Disconnect the throttle angle sensor connector.
40 Disconnect the canister solenoid valve hose from the right side throttle fitting.
41 Remove all spark plug tips
42 Disconnect all valve injector plugs
43 Disconnect the plug for the knock sensor and lambda probe heating.
44 Disconnect the lambda probe connector and lay the wires to one side.
45 Disconnect the pressure and temperature sensor plug engine oil(on the rear end of the left cylinder head).
46 Disconnect the thermal switch plug
radiator blower fan.
47 Disconnect the hose (blue) of the check valve, which is in the same harness with the hoses of the brake servo.
48 Disconnect the plugs on the injectors on the left and right sides.
49 Disconnect the hydraulic pipe mounting bracket installed on the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the hydraulic drive.
50 Disconnect the intake manifold and remove it.
51 Plug the manifold holes with a clean cloth.
52 Disconnect the coolant pipe from the rear end of the cylinder head.
53 Disconnect the gas analyzer tube.
54 Remove the lambda probe.
55 Remove the mounting bolts and remove the exhaust manifold heat shield.
56 Remove the cylinder head cover.
57 Remove the rear toothed belt guard.
58 Disconnect the hose from the reservoir to the power steering pump from the cylinder head.
59 Remove the cylinder head bolts. The sequence of unscrewing the bolts is opposite to the order of their tightening (see illustration).
Attention! Remove the cylinder head from a cold engine.
The hot head after removal can "lead".
60 Remove the cylinder head.
If, due to the tight fit, the head does not detach, then tap it with a plastic hammer.
Examination
61 Remove the old gasket. The sealing surfaces of the cylinder head and block must be absolutely clean, without any residues of sealing compound.
Attention! Do not scrape the cylinder head sealing surfaces with sharp tools. Scoring or scratching can cause subsequent damage to the head.
62 Check the cylinder head for distortion. This is especially necessary if the gasket has burned out.
63 Place a long metal ruler or square along the cleaned sealing surface of the head and use a template to make sure there are no distortions greater than 0.1 mm.
If the deflection is greater than the specified value, the cylinder head must be ground.
The modification of the cylinder head is allowed within certain limits.
The permissible minimum head height for four-cylinder engines is 132.6 mm, and for 5- and 6-cylinder engines 132.75 mm.
Installation
64 Lubricate the slide rails of the hydraulic tappets with a thin layer of grease if a new or replacement cylinder head is to be installed.
65 Lubricate camshaft and reinstall it.
Attention! The thread of the head bolts and the thread of the bolt holes in the cylinder block must be clean and undamaged. Otherwise, the tightening torque of the bolts will not correspond to the nominal.
The bolt holes must be free of oil or liquid. Failure to do so can lead to rupture of the metal of the cylinder block.
66 Turn crankshaft against the direction of rotation so that none of the pistons are at TDC. Otherwise, when the cylinder head is installed, the open valve may hit the piston.
67 Place the cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block with the mark or the word "OBEN" (top) facing the cylinder head.
68 Reinstall the cylinder head. To this end, workshops, when working with 4- and 5-cylinder engines, use two guide pins, which prevent displacement of both the head itself and the gasket during installation.
The guide pins can be made by yourself by sawing off the heads from the two old head bolts and sawing through the slot for the screwdriver. After screwing in a few head mounting bolts, these guide pins are unscrewed with a screwdriver, and the mounting bolts are screwed in their place.
69 Install all the cylinder head bolts and tighten them in the sequence shown in the illustration. The bolts are tightened in two or three stages, depending on the engine type.
Four- and five-cylinder engines
1st stage. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 40 Nm.
2nd stage. Tighten the bolts with a torque wrench to 60 Nm.
3rd stage. Tighten the bolts with a wrench half a turn, without interrupting the forward movement of the wrench.
It is allowed to perform this operation with two turns of a quarter turn each. The sequence for tightening the bolts is the same as for screwing and tightening them.
Six-cylinder engines
1st stage. Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to 60 Nm.
2nd stage. Tighten the bolts with a wrench half a turn, without interrupting the forward movement of the wrench. It is allowed to perform this operation with two turns of a quarter turn each. The sequence of tightening the bolts is the same as for bolts.
screwing and tightening.
After completing the re-rotation, the tightening of the bolts is complete. Subsequent pulling up is not allowed.
When installing the throttle cable and valve injectors on a five-cylinder engine, pay special attention to their correct position.
Attention! Observe the tightening sequence for the intake manifold bolts on six-cylinder engines.
70 Check the ignition timing after fully installing the cylinder head of four- and five-cylinder engines.
Attention! If the cylinder head was removed due to a damaged head gasket, then the coolant should be completely drained and replaced with a new one. The same applies to replacing the cylinder head.
A defective cylinder head gasket can be identified by one or more of the following:
a) loss of coolant,
b) clouds of white gases from exhaust pipe,
c) with the engine running from expansion tank air bubbles come out with the coolant, and when the tank lid is opened, an active leakage of coolant occurs in the form of foam,
d) gray or brown emulsion on the engine oil dipstick due to coolant entering the engine oil.
Attention! Coolant in the engine lubrication system can damage the bearings. Replace the cylinder head gasket immediately. Do not start the engine! Transport the vehicle to the workshop by loading it onto a platform.
Despite the fact that the last "eighty" Audi rolled off the assembly line almost two decades ago, or rather, in 1996, you can still find many cars of this family on our roads. Of course, very ancient rare copies, produced in the seventies, have long been used only as exhibits of technical museums and private auto collections. However, cars with the index B3, B4 are still quite intensively operated by many domestic motorists.
Taking into account advanced age Audi 80 b3 repair this favorite of summer residents and fans of life on wheels is gaining special relevance. The simplicity of the design of the car is one of its main advantages, thanks to which it has gained popularity among millions of motorists in various countries.
The mechanic, who is familiar with the front-wheel drive Togliatti models, will easily understand the structure of the "barrel", as the people call the "eighty". There are also enough spare parts for cars of this family, both branded and not quite. In extreme cases, when repairing, maintaining or modernizing the "eighties", you can use parts from the products of the domestic auto industry.
A lot is suitable. For example, wheel disks exactly the same as that of the Moskvich-2141, the suspension and clutch elements are perfect from VAZ cars. Thus, it is appropriate to talk about the high degree of maintainability of the "eighty" as one of its main trump cards. Armed with the necessary arsenal of wrenches, screwdrivers different sizes and configurations of the working part, it will not be difficult to independently disassemble the entire nose of the car.
The doors also open freely into a pair of independent segments with a few light movements of the screwdriver. And lighting fixtures can be replaced on their own in a few minutes. It all does repair and maintenance of Audi 80 b3 business simple and even somewhat pleasant. Perhaps this is one of the reasons why this model has not yet ended up in the dustbin of history.
As for the list of the most common malfunctions, then it is rather short:
- Possible problems of heating and ventilation systems
- Broken steering gear
- Ignition malfunctions due to a sufficiently old age of the car
- Malfunctions brake system
- And the most vulnerable place of the "eighties" is the suspension
Features of maintenance and operation
According to experienced craftsmen, the "barrel" is devoid of any purely individual, characteristic exclusively for this model of breakdowns and defects. Of course, German engines, like all other powertrains, are afraid of overheating, the use of low-grade fuel and lubricants, underfilling and irregular maintenance.
The cooling system requires constant monitoring of the level and chemical purity of antifreeze. Although many, in order to save money, pour Tosol into the car, it is not recommended to do this in order to avoid the failure of the unit and, accordingly, the need repairing his iron friend Audi 80 b3.
Electrical equipment and even more so electronics in the "barrel" is much less than in modern high-tech cars. In addition, all electrics of the "eighties" are distinguished by excellent operational reliability and durability.
Increased attention is required mainly to the fuel supply system. Since the "barrel" is a car of the carburetor type, it is usually equipped with complex aggregates of two types:
- Keihin
- Pierburg
These carburetors, having swallowed low-grade "dirty" fuel, show their capricious character, causing functional failures and arrhythmias in operation. power unit... A system of nozzles and a fuel pump "barrels" equipped with a KE-Jetronic fuel injection mechanism have the unpleasant property of being clogged with solid deposits contained in low-quality combustible substances.
Therefore, it is necessary to strictly monitor the quality of the used fuel and lubricants and other process fluids. This is the key to the operational durability of the machine. According to the masters, most of the problems in the operation of reliable German engines, which are equipped with "eighties" with the B3 index, are associated with the fact that some careless drivers, in order to "match" economy, fill the tank of their car with outright rubbish.
Repair of the car Audi 80 b3. Achilles' heel - suspension
Basically, the suspension is weak point all cars of the Audi brand. However, this is due not so much to any structural defects of German cars, but to the frank uselessness of most domestic roads. "Barrel" is a car of a rather old age, therefore, problems with the suspension are extremely common for it.
The very design of this mechanism allows you to produce all renovation work parts and replacement parts individually. If any element breaks down, it will need to be replaced. In no case should you resort to editing and restoration of a broken part. The main functional part of the suspension is the shock absorber strut. Therefore, all repairs, as a rule, consist in her dismantling and replacement.
This procedure is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- The vehicle is parked on a flat, horizontal surface, and then the fastening element (bolt or nut) in the center of the hub is unscrewed.
- The rest are methodically weakened wheel bolts
- The car is jacked up to the same height on both sides
- Then the stabilizer post is disconnected from the transverse suspension arm
- The brake caliper is removed
- The clamping bolt of the hinge device located at the bottom of the stabilizer bar is removed
- The articulated steering linkage is disconnected
- The pry bar removes the suspension rod from the shock absorber
- Next, a puller is installed, with which the drive shaft is removed from the hub
- And finally, in the engine compartment, the cap is removed from the dome of the shock absorber
Such work on suspension repair on Audi 80 b3 can be carried out by one person in a garage. In general, the old "eighties" are surprisingly strong, hardy, maintainable and friendly machines.
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Old man Diogenes lived in a barrel. Then wheels were attached to this barrel, and we got the Audi-80/90 car ... All this, of course, is a joke. At the same time, the folklore nicknames of the machines aptly reflect their essence. ZAZ-965 - "humped", VAZ-2108 - "chisel", Opel-Kadette E - "blown" ...
The word "barrel" exudes reliability. And although today many cars have faceless rounded body shapes, the "barrel" is only the Audi-80 in the 44th body.
In Germany, the Audi-80 was considered mainly "ladies'". Most often, it was the second car, designed for daily trips on family matters - a shop, a hairdresser, to pick up a child from school. It was also driven by just young people who had just graduated from college and entered an independent life. Riding an old "Golf" is no longer prestigious, and a more solid model has not yet been earned. In either case, the owners did not "rape" their cars much, and most of the used Audi cars that came straight to our country look very, very attractive.
An interesting situation - in our country, the owners of the Audi-80 in terms of lifestyle are in many ways similar to the first owners of their car. Among them you can find a successful journalist, a novice businessman and a life friend of a middle-class banker. Anyone whose ambitions make it possible to look disdainfully at the products of the domestic auto industry, but the material possibilities are not yet limitless.
For many of them, young and zealous, the Audi is the first serious car after the "Zhiguli" and a good reason to "come off" in full force on the road. These cars briskly start from traffic lights ( front-wheel drive!) And easily squeeze 140 km / h on the highway. Relatively small size, power steering and good throttle response allow you to maneuver quite dashingly in tight city traffic, if you have enough skill and nerves. Therefore, "Autopilot" recommends purchasing a car "without a run in the CIS" if you have definitely opted for a "barrel".
Among the main competitors of the Audi-80 in the market for non-new cars are the Mercedes-190, Ford-Scorpio and Volkswagen-Passat. The money is about the same. The age difference will be no more than two years in one direction or another - for a used car "with a name" it does not matter.
Slightly losing to the "Mercedes" from the image point of view, the Audi-80 is considered more sporty than Volkswagen, and more prestigious than Scorpio. She is like a mahogany sideboard in the living room: modest but tasteful. Solid and unpretentious car for daily trips around the city.
Personally, I really like the Audi salon. Even more than the deliberately ascetic interior of the Mercedes-190. In the personal "table of ranks", he is located immediately behind the BMW salon. Firstly, everything is very functional and well thought out, and secondly, it is simply beautiful and elegant. A special distinguishing feature is the abundance of shelves and glove compartments, which allows you to carry with you a lot of useful trifles that occupy half of the Zhiguli trunk.
If you spend on searches the desired car a little more time and money, you can purchase a copy with a full set of additional "options" - electric sunroof, glass, heated seats. In terms of comfort, Audi has always been among the leaders.
Buy Audi-80 through official dealers you can hardly do it. There are two options left - either to drive a car from Western Europe on your own, or to look for it through advertisements and among friends. You can also seek the services of a professional used car ferryman. In this case, the price increases by about $ 500 depending on the route of the car delivery to your entrance.
Among car owners, the Audi brand is known primarily for its anti-corrosion treatment. Indeed, the galvanized body is amazingly durable in our climate. Naturally, these cars rarely rust. But every medal has a downside - if the car was subjected to a difficult body repair in artisanal conditions and the welding places were not properly processed, the corrosion process occurs in these places with alarming speed and can spread to the entire body. When choosing a machine, we recommend that you pay special attention to this.
Many owners are also attracted by the availability of service and the relative cheapness of spare parts, which can be purchased both in company stores and through advertisements through specialized publications. According to the experience of one of the Moscow firms engaged in diagnostics and repair of various units in Audi cars, the list of the most common problems that owners of the 80th model apply to service are as follows: malfunction of the electronic fuel injection system, replacement of front shock absorbers, replacement steering tips, malfunction of the pump of the engine cooling system - in common parlance "pump", replacement of the electric sensor for switching on the fan, replacement of the clutch.
The mechanics of this company believe that the reason for the failure of the injection system is the poor quality of domestic gasoline and recommend that all owners use special fuel additives that increase the octane number. Otherwise, replacement of injectors and full engine diagnostics will cost $ 150-200. As for the front shock absorbers and tie rod ends, the cost of just replacing them will cost the Audi owner $ 150-250.
And finally, an incident from life. One acquaintance bought an Audi 80 a couple of months ago. Together with the car from the first owner, he got a lot of problems - "beating" tires, poorly adjusted engine, "knocking" suspension. Good intentions to bring the car into a normal state have long been broken by chronic laziness. And the car drives itself and drives. And less and less often my friend recalls that "it would be nice to go to the service ..." Still, a strong and patient machine is the Audi-80.
Cost of spare parts and consumables:
- brake pads - from $ 30
- front shock absorbers - $ 120
- headlight assembly (Hella) - $ 170
- fuel pump (Bosch) - $ 135
- fuel filter - about $ 30
- air filter - about $ 20
- cooling system pump - from $ 50
- a set of 4 Champion candles - $ 12.
