The main task of the suspension is to provide an elastic connection between the body and the wheels. Thus, the suspension softens the jolts and jumps that occur when the vehicle is driven on uneven roads or the absence of it. The smooth running of the car is directly dependent on the suspension.
The suspension serves as a kind of shock absorber, absorbing the energy that occurs when driving over irregularities, or falling into pits and potholes. However, it does not guarantee complete softness of movement and wears out a lot with frequent movement over bumps.
Pendants are divided into the following types:
- McPherson;
- double wishbone;
- multi-link;
- adaptive;
- "De Dion";
- back dependent;
- rear semi-dependent;
- pickups and SUVs;
- trucks.
Suspension type McPherson
The McPherson suspension is one of the oldest. It was developed by the talented engineer Earl MacPherson in 1960. Consists of anti-roll bar, arm and block. Changing the camber angle is a serious disadvantage of the suspension, but it is very popular due to its availability and reliability.
Double wishbone suspension
The double wishbone suspension is one of the most advanced designs. This is a suspension with two arms of different lengths (upper short and lower long). This design allows the vehicle to remain stable on the road and ensures the durability of the tires. Each wheel takes its own obstacle independently and does not transfer the load to other wheels.
The multi-link suspension was developed not so long ago and is an even more sophisticated design. It is a set of many levers, silent blocks and hinges. All of these components are designed to absorb shock and shock while riding. The noise level from the wheels in the passenger compartment is also reduced. The suspension has separate lateral and longitudinal adjustments. The wheels are independent of each other. The design is ideal for 4WD vehicles.
Price multi-link suspension remained quite high for some time, but now even golf-class car drivers can afford it.
Adaptive suspension
The adaptive suspension is quite interesting in terms of design. For a long time it was primitive and weighed a lot, but now it has been greatly modernized. Due to this, it allows maximum body roll and wave swing at high speed and allows it to automatically adapt to any type of road surface. The adaptive suspension includes: adjustable anti-roll bars, active shock absorber struts, control unit undercarriage and electronic sensors fixing road irregularities and other parameters.
"De Dion"
"De Dion" is named after its French creator. The main function of such a suspension is to reduce the load on rear axle the vehicle by separating the final drive housing. In this case, the crankcase rests on the body. This design allows you to make the suspension dependent or independent. But there are also disadvantages. During an abrupt start, the body of the car can put a lot of pressure on the rear axle.
Rear dependent suspension
The rear dependent suspension is a real classic version, as it was used on many old VAZ cars. The suspension is based on cylindrical helical springs, which are elastic elements. The rear axle beam "hangs" on springs and is fixed to the body by means of four trailing arms. The reactive transverse rod acts as a roll absorber and has a positive effect on handling. But do not expect comfort and smoothness from this suspension, since the rear axle weighs a lot.
Semi-dependent rear suspension most often used in vehicles with four-wheel drive... Its main elements are two trailing arms, which are attached in the center to the cross member. This suspension weighs a little and does not require any special maintenance or major repairs. But such a suspension cannot be installed on rear-wheel drive cars.
Other types of pendants
The suspension of trucks is most often dependent with transverse or longitudinal springs and hydraulic shock absorbers. This design makes it possible to simplify the process of manufacturing and repairing trucks.
Anti-roll bar: design and purpose
The anti-roll bar is an indispensable suspension component. It reduces body roll when cornering, increases grip on the road surface and evenly distributes the load on the frame. It is shaped like a metal bar with curved tips. Attached on each side to the wheels of one of the axles, most often in the front (front stabilizer). Also, this structural element is attached to the car body.
Suspension diagnostics in the service center
The cost of such diagnostics varies from five hundred to a thousand rubles. Diagnostics allows you to identify suspension defects. Since this part of the car is most susceptible to wear and tear, diagnostics should be carried out promptly and in a timely manner.
You can determine that it is time to check the suspension for serviceability by an uncharacteristic knock and an increase in the braking distance of the car. Vehicle stability on the road also weakens over time. Diagnostics in service centers is produced using high-precision equipment (backlash meter, side-care tester) and provides maximum information content. After diagnostics, you will receive a special diagnostic card with the results of the work.
Special bushings are used to install the stabilizer. What is a bushing? These are elastic elements that provide the car with a smooth ride. These bushings also ensure that there is no noise or vibration from the gimbal.
The sleeve is molded from rubber or polyurethane. The shape is identical for most models. Additionally equipped with grooves that protect against mechanical stress.
Signs of wear on stabilizer bushings
There are several signs:
- the formation of a backlash of the steering wheel during turns;
- shaking of the steering wheel;
- body roll with various knocks and clicks;
- vibration and extraneous noise;
- "Wobbling" of the car to the side when driving straight;
- instability on the road.
Causes of malfunctioning bushings
Bushings most often fail due to poor road surface, the use of various reagents. Reagents used during icy conditions are no exception. Aggressive driving with hard braking and starting quickly leads to wear and tear on most vehicle structures, including the stabilizer bushings.
Low temperatures can be a serious cause of wear. The rubber of poor quality bushings will harden strongly and lose the necessary elasticity.
Finally, the biggest factor in wear and tear is time. The stabilizer bush, like most elements of the car's structure, is a spare part with an expiration date. Sooner or later, any bushing is subject to wear and requires replacement.
Before replacing the stabilizer bushings, you must carefully inspect the suspension. The suspension must be cleaned from dirt. You can visually determine the wear on the bushing: it will have patterned cracks and various abrasions. The rubber of worn out bushings loses its elasticity. A special inspection hole or lift will help you to inspect the bushings. If there are no such conveniences, use the "folk" method. Put your hands on the top of the roof of the car and rock it. Knocks and squeaks at the bottom of the case will be a signal to replace the bushings.
Some car owners are trying to extend the life of the bushings by using special lubricants. This method is not recommended, as the lubrication "collects" various road debris and dust while driving. But if you still decide to use a lubricant, then purchase a quality product that does not destroy rubber. Litol-24 and MOLYKOTE CU-7439 will suit you. These are versatile products. They can even be used to lubricate brake calipers. Bushing grease is often available in a repair kit. In some cases, you may need a crowbar.
You will need one or more jacks to replace the bushings. It is advisable to carry out the replacement at the inspection pit, where special supports may also be needed. From the tools you will need wrenches, a screwdriver and a repair kit.
Step-by-step instructions for self-replacement
The process of replacing the front and transverse stabilizer bushings is slightly different.
To replace the bushings front stabilizer you need to perform a series of actions described below:
- Place the vehicle stationary above a pit or on a lift.
- Use the tools to loosen the front wheel bolts.
- Remove the wheels.
- Unscrew the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer.
- Disconnect the struts and stabilizer.
- Loosen the rear bolts of the bracket that frames the hub, and then remove the front bolts.
- Thoroughly remove dirt from the places for installing new bushings.
- Lubricate the inside of the bushings with silicone spray or soapy water. The special grease available in the repair kits may also be suitable for this.
- Install the stabilizer bushings and reassemble all parts.
To replace the lateral stabilizer bushings, you also need to position the vehicle stationary over a pit or on a lift. After that, take a series of actions described below:
- Place chocks under the rear wheels the vehicle and slightly raise the front.
- Using a special open-end wrench, unscrew the nuts on the brackets in the places where they are attached to the car's lower suspension arm. Do this on both sides of the stabilizer bar. Washers-grovers under the nuts are removed manually.
- Remove staples and remove worn bushings. To do this, bend the stabilizer bar with a crowbar and hold it with the same crowbar when removing the bushing.
- If there are central bushings, then you will have to remove the stabilizer bar, which is attached to the two brackets. You can unscrew the nuts on them with an open-end wrench.
- After removing the bar, clamp the bracket in a vise. Then you can remove the rod and then the bushing.
- Replace the bushing by cleaning the installation sites from dirt and lubricating.
- Then, as usual, reverse assembly is carried out.
The chassis in a car is such a part, certain elements of which directly ensure safety, therefore, its condition must be perfect. One of the parts of the above design is a stabilizer, which includes a so-called bushing. It is an important structural part.
There are two types of bushings: spherical and rubber. This article is presented for those whose car needs emergency technical assistance in the following areas:
Replacement rear bushings.
Signs of wear
A spherical bushing is similar in design parameters to a ball joint. Naturally, by analogy with the latter, it tends to wear out and, accordingly, come into an inoperative or unsuitable state for functioning. In addition, it should be noted that it is extremely unsafe to travel with worn-out (even if functioning) elements of the car's chassis, and therefore, if the anti-roll bar bush breaks down, it becomes necessary to replace it. In the case of a further trip with a worn-out bushing, the driver will definitely notice this, since, according to his individual feelings, driving the car will be much more difficult.
In most cases, when the stabilizer bush is worn out, certain noises are heard in the suspension area, and when the speed increases, they increase significantly, and, accordingly, while driving on road irregularities (pits and bumps), the noises acquire a clear sound in the form of bumps. And if you are an attentive driver and have not missed extraneous sound and temporary uncontrollability of the car, you will be engaged in finding out the probable cause of this situation. Thus, in order not to bring the suspension and the bushing to such a state, it is necessary to carry out scheduled technical inspections of all parts of the structure, and the bushing is subject to the most thorough diagnostics.
Easy three-step process
If, according to the results of diagnostics or while driving, you concluded that the bushing has become unusable, then you should not postpone the repair. Replace it immediately. In this case, you do not even have to go to a car service for this purpose: replacing the rear stabilizer bushings, as well as the front ones, is a completely simple process, and this can be done on their own without even resorting to the help of strangers. Removing worn bushings and replacing them with new ones takes three steps:
- Remove the bolts that secure the clamp.
- Swivel the stabilizer to the side. This position makes it possible to conduct a thorough assessment of his condition and remember the features of the initial internal device in order to avoid the assumption of incorrect installation of elements after repair.
- In this situation, it is easy to remove the worn-out old bushings from the stabilizer and install new ones.
Benefits of timely replacement
Replacing the stabilizer bushings can create absolutely no difficulty for the driver who decides to make repairs on his own. All processes are fully available for manual execution, however, when there is no ability or desire to carry them out in the absence of the help of third parties, it is recommended to contact a car service. Replacing the anti-roll bar bushings will enable the car owner to protect the struts from early wear.
Movement with brand new bushings avoids hindrances during road traffic, especially when it comes to driving on low-quality roads. Anyway, the new hub is a comfortable and safe auto movement.
List of required tools
You definitely need to have the following set of tools:
- new bushings;
- to unscrew the subframe bolt, an open-end wrench of size 24 is required;
- keys for 17 and 15;
- for unscrewing screws from the motor protection - a key for 10;
- for fastening bolts - a key 13;
- clamps made of metal material for 20 - for clamping the stabilizers, since the old ones must be replaced;
- anti-scale and rust treatment agent - WD 40;
- graphite grease;
- jack.
When planning to replace only bushings, it is recommended to leave marks before removing the rod. This is necessary in order to immediately install them exactly in the place where they were before, because it is extremely difficult to move new bushings along the surface of the rod due to elasticity.
For convenient installation, it is recommended to lubricate the surface inside the sleeve with a soap solution.
Step by step algorithm
Step-by-step algorithm of the process during which the anti-roll bar bushings are replaced:
The vehicle should be placed on an inspection pit or other front end lifting device.
Using a socket wrench (30), unscrew the nuts (2 pcs.) Securing the sleeve holder and the ends of the stabilizer to the suspension arms. Pry the bar with a small spatula (mounting), then remove the clip from the pins, gently pulling in the lateral direction.
Remove the rubber grommet from the rod end. Carry out the procedure from the opposite side in the same way.
Remove the stabilizer by unscrewing the nuts securing the brackets to the body side members (2 nuts on both sides).
To replace the bushings, clamp the yoke shank with a vise, then turn the rod and pull the rubber bush.
Put on new bushings, while it is necessary to orient them according to the applied marks.
Carry out the next installation in reverse order.
Replacing the front stabilizer bushings is carried out in the same way as replacing the rear ones.
Replacing the bushing on Toyota
If you plan to replace the Toyota stabilizer bush, you first need to dismantle the wheels. For this purpose, the front wheel nuts are loosened. Then you need to gradually raise it in front of the car in order to firmly install it on the axle supports. Tighten immediately hand brake and block the rear wheels to prevent rocking of the vehicle. Detach the stabilizer leg. For this purpose, an allen wrench is used to prevent the rack from turning, otherwise the ball joint can rotate together with the nut. Remove the existing bushing clips later.
After disconnecting the stabilizer, the bushings themselves are removed, subjected to an external examination and, in the presence of defects, must be replaced with new ones, which are recommended to be lubricated beforehand. vegetable oil from each side. Thus, assembly is much easier. It is necessary to pay attention to the cuts of the bushing, they must be turned towards the rear of the machine, and the mark, accordingly, must be on the outside. Further assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Replacing the stabilizer bush "Kia"
Replacing the Kia stabilizer bushings involves the following algorithm:
Raise the front of the vehicle and remove the wheels. Find the steering shaft and make a mark (for easy further installation in the original place), remove the mounting bolt.
Raise the gearbox using a jack, unscrew the rear cushion and subframe.
To facilitate access to back cushions four bolts are unscrewed, with which the subframe is attached.
Jack up the front section of the subframe.
Remove the fastener and treat with an oil solution to prevent the development of corrosion processes on the metal.
Screw them into place only four to five turns. This is done crosswise to provide additional security and uniform contraction of the plane.
Loosen the jack until you can reach the bushing bolts.
The bushing on the right side can easily be unscrewed through the engine compartment, and on the left side - from below.
Insert the staples. This procedure is carried out carefully so as not to damage the collar on the steering boot.
The process is repeated in reverse order.
The peculiarities of the Kia Sid car are that the steering shaft has a telescopic view, and therefore it is installed at the last moment.
Replacing the stabilizer bush on the Nissan
It should be noted that the replacement of the Nissan stabilizer bush is carried out in the same sequence as in a similar procedure on some other passenger car.
The procedure must be carried out in a timely manner, then you can avoid more complex breakdowns in the chassis of the car.
However, as in other car models, the purpose of replacing deteriorated structural elements of car systems is to create a safe driving environment.
You can determine whether it is necessary to replace the stabilizer bushings by knocking or squeaking that appears in the suspension when braking and driving over bumps. And given that sometimes there are more holes on our roads than asphalt pavement, the replacement process must be carried out regularly. The bushings themselves are not very expensive, their timely replacement will save them from rapid wear and tear, and the car owner from unnecessary spending associated with their replacement.
The replacement process is quite simple and you can easily do it yourself using the proposed instructions.
The stabilizer bushings are among the parts that are subject to the highest dynamic loads. They require regular replacement, depending on the maintenance regulations adopted by various car manufacturers and models. The maximum mileage before replacing the rear and front hubs is typically 15,000 to 30,000 km. Taking into account the condition of our roads, it is recommended to replace them after wear.
Untimely replacement can lead to the formation of a roll in the stabilizer bar of the car, and this, in turn, increases the risk of the car overturning at speed. The complete set is subject to mandatory replacement, regardless of the difference in external signs of wear. The cost of such a repair service in a service station is often overstated, given the ease of replacement for most car models, so it is advisable to replace the front and rear bushings with your own hands.
Diagnostics
The knock of the stabilizers is a guaranteed sign that the bushings need to be replaced immediately. In addition to it, squeaks may appear, especially during a cold snap, when the rubber loses its elasticity.
It may be necessary to remove the crankcase guard to determine if replacement is necessary. To check the source of vibration, place your hands on the stabilizer post and directly on the mounting bracket. The partner should press hard on the hood of the car several times. If vibrations are felt on the brackets, which are transmitted to the rack, a new kit must be installed, even if no backlash was noticed when inspecting the seats on the stabilizer.
If the hole inside the sleeve has taken the shape of an ellipse, cracks are visible on the surface, and the material has hardened, immediate replacement is necessary. Further operation of the vehicle will significantly reduce the service life of the stabilizer struts.
Tool
To replace the front or rear bushings with your own hands, you will need:
- small ratchet with extension and cap head;
- open-end wrench, it should be thin and small;
- large ratchet, cardan adapter and union head;
- you may need an L-shaped extension cord.
Sequence of work
- The car is securely fixed in the jacked state.
- Wheels are unscrewed and removed. There is an engine guard in the right wheel arch. Its fasteners are unscrewed and the shield is removed.
- Most of the fasteners under the bottom are pretty acidic, so to speed up the process of replacing the stabilizer bushings, they must be thoroughly treated with WD 40, which removes corrosion.
- Using the open-end wrench, we fix the finger on the left stand. It is a little hidden from direct access, so the grooves need to be found almost by touch.
- We throw a box wrench, preferably a ratchet, onto the nut that secures the shock absorber. We unscrew both fasteners.
- Having freed the stabilizer struts from the fasteners, we disconnect them from the shock absorber strut.
- Place a jack under the left rear part of the subframe. With its help, the subframe is fixed so that when removing the fasteners it does not suddenly jump off the studs. A significant metal plate must be placed under the jack support head so as not to deform the subframe.
- Smoothly lower the jack a few centimeters from the body. Thanks to this, the subframe also lowers somewhat, opening access to the bushings.
- A pipe is inserted into the resulting gap, and the subframe is additionally pushed down. A stopper is inserted into the resulting gap. A head on 27 is suitable; when installing it between the body and the subframe washer, it is better to use pliers. This will save your hand from injury if the tube slips off the subframe washer.
- We water the bracket mountings generously with WD-40. Unscrew the bolts gradually, without pressing too much.
- We remove the released bracket from the bushing, and then remove the bushing itself.
- Install the bushing from a new kit. The cut on the parts must be directed strictly backward. Positioning new part exactly in place of the old one.
- Install a clamp over the sleeve. We lightly bait the fasteners with our fingers, and then tighten with a wrench, alternately and evenly tightening all the bolts.
- The stopper, which was used as the key head, is removed. The subframe is lifted by hand and screwed onto the body.
- All these steps are performed in the same way with respect to the second clamp.
- After the bushings are installed, both legs are screwed into place.
IMPORTANT! Before installation, all threaded parts of the fasteners are coated with graphite grease to avoid sticking.
When performing the specified work, you should be careful and pay attention to safety. In general, such work can be done by hand.
Naturally, the design different brands cars differ significantly, so the replacement instructions are rather general recommendations. For a more detailed acquaintance, a series of videos on carrying out this type of repair for various car brands is presented.
Video for replacing stabilizer bushings Ford Explorer:
Video Chevrolet Aveo 3 - split sleeves, which are used in this model, make the repair process quick and easy.
Nissan X-Trail video:
Video explaining workflows for Renault Logan:
The elements in a vehicle that have the function of ensuring stability while driving on the road are called stabilizers. To make the work silent, soft and smooth stabilizers are installed on the bushings. The stabilizer bushings are relatively soft and resilient rubber parts.
What is a stabilizer bushing?
The sleeve is made by casting. Material used for manufacturing: rubber or polyurethane. The shape of this part is almost the same for all car models. To strengthen the structure of the bushings, grooves and tides are made in them.
When to change the front anti-roll bar bushings?
Visually inspecting the stabilizer bushings from time to time can reveal their wear. If there are cracks on the bushing, the shape has changed (there are large abrasions), then the stabilizer bushings must be replaced.
The resource of the stabilizer bushings for most brands and models of cars is 30 thousand kilometers. If only one bushing is worn out, it is recommended to replace the complete set to increase the overhaul period for replacing the bushings.
If dirt is visible on visual inspection, it is better to clean them, thereby protecting against accelerated wear.
Signs when you need to change the stabilizer bushings in the car:
- if there is a wheel play when cornering;
- if the steering wheel beats;
- if there are creaks when the car is tilted (roll);
- if the suspension vibrates (while there is extraneous noise);
- if, when driving straight ahead, the car pulls to the left or right;
- and, if there is any instability at all while riding.
These signs, first of all, signal the wear of the stabilizer bushings. The same signs can also be accompanied by the wear of the silent blocks. Such problems are eliminated and the subsequent passage of work on wheel alignment. Therefore, you should check them and conduct renovation work with their own or someone else's hands to replace the stabilizer bushings. Backlash can also appear if the wheel balance is severely imbalanced. Disrupts balance when hitting a pit, or, for example, when pumping, to close a puncture.
How to change the front bushings of the car stabilizer
Although there are a huge number of brands and models of cars, the principle and procedure for replacing the front bushings is practically the same. Basically, the tools used differ.
The correct procedure for replacing the front bushings:
- Install the car on a lift (if available) or install it above the inspection pit.
- Loosen the front wheel bolts.
- Remove wheels.
- Then the nuts securing the struts to the stabilizer should be unscrewed.
- Disconnect.
- Then the rear bolts of the bracket should be loosened and the front bolts should be unscrewed.
- Clean the places for installing the bushings from dirt.
- New bushings on the inside should be lubricated with soapy water or silicone grease.
- Install the bushings and perform the reverse steps to disassembly.
In some vehicle designs, it will be more convenient to replace the front bushings if you first remove the engine crankcase protection.
The rear stabilizer bushings are changed in the same way as the front ones. Usually, the front ones are more difficult to shoot than the rear ones. When the rear bushings are worn, a squeak occurs.
Squeak of stabilizer bushings
The appearance of a squeak when the car is moving is often felt by the driver and passengers. Especially begin to creak in severe frosts.
Consider the reasons for the creak of the bushings:
- The bushings were made of low grade material.
- In the cold, the rubber melts oak and loses its elasticity, which causes creaks.
- The bushing is badly worn.
Ways to eliminate squeak of automotive stabilizer bushings:
Logically, in order to eliminate the squeak, you need to lubricate the bushings, which is what some drivers do. But, grease, be it litol 24, various oils- all this attracts dust, sand. Adhered abrasive substances will only lead to rapid wear of the bushings.
Also, lubrication will lead to a partial loss of function of the bushings themselves, since they must tightly hold the stabilizers. The bushings are torsional and therefore prevent the vehicle from tilting. For the bushings to work properly, they need to fit snugly. And, if you lubricate them, then they will already slide and can rotate.
There are craftsmen ways to improve the efficiency of stabilizer bushings. They wrap some of the bushings with electrical tape so that they fit snugly.
The video shows the process of replacing conventional bushings with polyurethane ones.
Suspension of any modern car consists of elastic elements that perceive road irregularities. Further, the transverse beam redistributes the accepted forces and displaces the wheels. This whole system of levers and beams is called the car's anti-roll bar.
The purpose of the anti-roll bar is to keep the vehicle stable when external forces change, such as when cornering. The lateral force resulting from this maneuver is capable of overturning the vehicle if the body rolls significantly. By virtue of its design features, the anti-roll bar evens out the lateral force on the outer and inner wheels relative to the corner. Depending on the type of drive, the stabilizer can be made in the form of a single curved beam or a system of levers.
As a rule, a dependent car suspension is characterized by one curved element, and an independent one - by a system of levers. To avoid noise caused by movements of the stabilizer elements and vibration damping, the stabilizer is attached to the body by means of elastic elements - bushings.
The stabilizer bush absorbs vibration from the suspension assemblies, thereby providing a smoother ride and less noise.
The bushing is an elastic part made of rubber by molding. The shape of the hub may differ depending on the structural elements of a particular vehicle, but in general the shape is similar. To increase durability and reliability, on some models the bushing is reinforced with lugs and grooves. The wear of the bushing is visible visually - cracks and abrasions appear on it, the bushing becomes hard and inelastic.
When is it time to replace the stabilizer bushings?
If the stabilizer bushings are malfunctioning, the following symptoms appear:
Steering wheel play when cornering;
Steering wheel beating;
Manifestation of characteristic clicks when the car body rolls;
"Yaw" of the car when driving;
Car drift when driving in one direction;
Vibration in suspension units;
The appearance of extraneous noise during the operation of the suspension
If you find these signs, we recommend that you sign up for the diagnosis and repair of the car's suspension.
In the event of a malfunction of the anti-roll bar bushings, the following work is performed:
Car wash;
Lifting the car on a lift;
Removing the wheels of the car;
Removing the fender liner or other plastic protection;
Removing fasteners from stabilizer elements;
Removing the mount from the stabilizer bush bracket;
Replacing the bushing with a new one.
On some car models, to facilitate the bushing replacement procedure, it is necessary to remove the engine crankcase protection. Assembly is carried out upside-down. For ease of installation of this elastic element, the sleeve is split.
The stabilizer bushings must be replaced after 30 thousand kilometers or when the above signs of malfunctions appear. To avoid "yaw" of the car when driving, both stabilizer bushings are replaced, regardless of the degree of wear of both. To increase the service life of the anti-roll bar elastic element, at each maintenance it is necessary to clean them of dirt, since its particles in the coupling between the bushing and the stabilizer link are a source of additional wear.
