How to check the rear rods on the VAZ 2107. Replacing the rear jet rods bushings on the VAZ classics

During the operation of the vehicle, parts of the suspension and other systems are subjected to significant loads, which leads to their wear and tear and their failure. On the VAZ 2107 model, a development is formed at the ends of the steering rods, knocks appear while driving on a bad road. Ignoring them is fraught with destruction of the unit and loss of vehicle control. The solution to the problem is to replace the faulty parts of the mechanism.

For execution renovation works on a VAZ 2107 car, the following spare parts will be required:

• steering rods;
• protective covers;
• nuts with crown and locking pin.

Replacement of units is carried out on a car installed above the inspection pit. To dismantle parts and install new ones, a special puller, a socket wrench and an extension are used.

Repair work procedure

Replacing a faulty part of the steering mechanism is carried out in the following sequence:

1. We clean the assembly of dirt with a brush, apply a penetrating compound to the threaded connections.
2. Using the pliers, remove the locking pins and using a spanner wrench or a “22” head, unscrew the nut on the finger.
3. The steering rods are detached from the steering knuckle using a special puller. The device is put on the assembly from above and with the help of a bolt the finger is squeezed out of the lug.

Helpful advice: if the connection point is first tapped through a copper or bronze drift, then the dismantling process is significantly accelerated.

The car manufacturer VAZ 2107 recommends replacing worn steering rods as a set. The resource of these structural units from the same batch installed on a vehicle is usually the same. Replacing only one of them does not solve the problem. It will take a little time and the repair process will have to be repeated for the rest of the system elements.

Parts installation and adjustment

Installation of steering rods on a classic car VAZ 2107 is not particularly difficult and is carried out as follows:

1. We measure the length old build using a steel ruler with as much precision as possible.
2. The new unit is adjusted with threaded connection to the desired size and secure with locknuts.
3. The part is installed in place by inserting a finger into the seat and tightening the nut with a certain moment.

Usage jet thrust in the car's suspension improves the stability and controllability of the car when driving, especially on uneven roads. On the move, the rear axle experiences heavy loads with different directional vectors. Without jet rods or with damaged rods, the car begins to behave dangerously under heavy loads on the suspension. It is the jet thrust that prevents the car from swaying and does not allow it to tip over during a sharp maneuver. Their condition critically affects driving safety.

Therefore, you should periodically monitor the condition of the jet rods and carry out timely repair or replacement of these parts.

Malfunctions of jet rods

The jet thrust of the VAZ 2107, like any other car, takes on the loads aimed at displacing or swaying the rear axle. If these parts fail, the behavior of the car on the road changes: the handling deteriorates, the braking distance increases, and even there is a threat of a sudden change in the trajectory or overturning of the car. What factors cause breakage or wear on steering rods?

1. Static loads. It is impossible to avoid this factor, but it can be reduced without overloading the vehicle.
2. Torsional loads. They most often occur when you hit an obstacle. You can reduce them by reducing the speed in front of the obstacle.
3. Chemical impact of water from chemicals that are sprinkled on roads in winter.

Therefore, it is important to regularly check the condition of the rods and timely identify deformation, chips and cracks. The appearance of such signs indicates the need to replace the part.

The rear rods of the VAZ 2107 have weak spots- welding seams with which the lugs are attached to the rod and silent blocks. The latter are made of rubber, which wears out much faster than the metal parts of the tie rod. The wear of the silent blocks contributes to the appearance of backlash, which prevents the rods from performing a stabilizing function. As for the breakdown of a welded joint, it can lead to the most disastrous results, up to an accident.

The malfunction of the jet rods manifests itself in the characteristic knock in the rear suspension while driving. Such a knock indicates the need to immediately check the condition of the rear suspension.

To eliminate defects in steering rods, as, in fact, to diagnose the suspension, you can contact the service station. But you should be aware that the repair and replacement of these parts is a fairly simple operation that you can do yourself, even without having a lot of experience in auto repair work.

Consequences of malfunction of jet rods

As mentioned above, the breakdown of the jet thrust has a bad effect on the handling and safety of the car. The body of the car loses stability, the trajectory of movement becomes unstable.

Not too good aerodynamics of the “seven” complements the unstable behavior of the body, at high speed turning the car into a hard-to-control car. Therefore, you need to eliminate problems at their first sign, without waiting for parts to break.

Choice of jet thrust

Depending on the manufacturer, the prices for the VAZ 2107 jet thrust differ several times. Regardless of the manufacturer, these parts are made from spring steel grades. Usually, a marriage can be detected even during the purchase. Before purchasing a traction, it is necessary to inspect for chips and cracks, especially in the places of welding. It is better to buy them from a trusted store, while do not forget to take a sales receipt, which makes it possible to return the goods if the marriage does not appear immediately.

What is needed to replace the VAZ 2107 jet rods

If you decide to repair the VAZ 2107 jet rods, you will need:

• set of wrenches;
• metal brush;
• mounting blade;
• WD-40 tool, which helps to loosen rusted threaded connections.

Removal of jet rods

Replacing the VAZ 2107 jet rods consists of two stages: removing old ones and installing new ones. The rods are removed as follows:

Note: if the nut cannot be unscrewed, the bolt must be cut off.

• Using a spudger, remove the jet thrust.
• If the bolt has been cut off, remove the remnants of the tie rod attachment.

Note: it is unacceptable to try to weld cracks on a cracked rod - the seam will not withstand the loads. Therefore, cracked rods must be replaced.

Repair and installation of jet rods

If the metal part of the rod is in good condition, they can be reused. It is only necessary to replace the rubber bushings. To do this, you need to remove the old parts from the lugs and press in new ones. Pressing in can be made easier by lubricating the surface with dish detergent (it does not corrode rubber).

Installation of new rods is carried out as follows:

• install the traction eyelet in the front bracket;
• lubricate the mounting bolt with nigrol or lithol, insert into the bracket and tighten with a nut;
• install the drawbar eye rear bracket;
• insert the fastening bolt, lubricated with nigrol or lithol, and tighten the nut.

Due to displacement rear axle the holes in the bracket and the tie rod eye may not line up. In this case, it is necessary to correct the position of the link using the mounting paddle.

After installing the links, the lower part of the rear shock absorber must be secured.

Replacing the steering rods with a VAZ 2107 when the time comes for this may become a very real task. And not that easy, but doable yourself, with your own hands. This procedure cannot be called elementary, accessible to the child and easy to perform. However, many average VAZ owners are no longer used to repairing their cars on their own without asking for help from a service station, so for the most part they cope with this task. It is important to be friends with the instrument and know the materiel, then, no doubt, everything should work out!

Replacing steering rods on a VAZ 2107 can be broken down into several stages of repair. Such a gradation will help to understand the amount of work to be done, the time spent on them and, accordingly, to plan the timing of the repair.

Signs of the coming hour "X"

If you have not yet encountered the need for such a repair and are not aware of what tells you about the approaching time for changing the steering rod, you should pay attention to the following symptoms:

• knocking sounds appeared in the steering system, which were not there before;
• , as if trying to escape (especially, it is clearly noticeable when driving on a flat track, where such a phenomenon should not be a priori;
• the backlash of the steering wheel has noticeably increased. If it has grown in the vertical direction, the ball joint or the hub bearing is covered, if in the horizontal direction, there is a problem with the steering tip;
• the steering wheel itself turns tight;
• the car on the road tries to leave the trajectory (leads to the left).

Dismantling

In any case, you will need a flyover or a pit for work. The lift is less common (among private owners), but it is also very good if it is available anywhere. No, of course, some superheroes manage to change with the help of jacks, strongly raising the car on one side and putting it on supports. But the safety technique at the same time is awful, and only an experienced artisan can turn around there, who quickly and accurately performs the work, without thinking about the steps and tools - on the machine. Also - before proceeding with the removal of the steering rod, you need to clean the dirt from its covers and nuts. Further actions are in this order:

• The length of the lateral pull is measured with a tape measure and fixed somewhere on a non-lost piece of paper. Otherwise, in the opposite process, that is, assembly,;
• A spray can with a penetrating lubricant is taken, and the thrust joints are processed with it. Most often people, but ordinary kerosene will do. If you want more convenience in processing, pour it into a water bottle with a spray bottle, but accept that you will have to throw it out later;
• The nut cotter pin is removed(with pliers), with which the steering pin is attached to steering knuckle... Instead of a cotter pin, the nut can be planted on a nail or wire - our craftsmen will not think of anything - so do not hesitate too much, shoot what is;
• After that, the nut itself is twisted;
• Next, the nuts are removed, with which the fingers are attached to the pendulum arm (if the right link is dismantled) or to the bipod of the steering mechanism (if the left one is removed);
• The fingers are pressed out; It is most convenient to do this with a puller. In his absence, you will have to use the means at hand, but here you can be sure that it will not do without injuries. Better to borrow the tool from your neighbor in the garage;
• The bolts on the clamps of the coupling coupling are loosened and the tips are unscrewed. All these manipulations are done twice in order to dismantle both side links;
• It was the turn of the middle one. Nuts are unpinned and screwed from it (from the side of the engine compartment, so a wrench with an extension is required);
• The fingers of the traction joints are knocked out, and it is removed.

The suspension of cars on our roads suffers quite badly, so replacing jet rods with a VAZ 2107 is not an uncommon task. In fact, the work is not difficult, although you still have to tinker. This is due to the peculiarities of car operation. The suspension is constantly in an aggressive environment, which can affect technical condition details. Watch the suspension, at the first sign of malfunction it is better to replace it. A sudden breakdown can lead to serious consequences, including an accident. To avoid this, regularly inspect the suspension for damage. This is especially true for drivers who have to drive on bad roads.

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107 produced as needed. Signs of a necessary replacement are the following points:

• Yawing the car on the road.

Note that this is not an indication of linkage problems. The suspension must be carefully inspected. The first sign of the need to replace the jet rods is visually visible damage to the rubber bands. If cracks and other damage are visible on them, then they should definitely be changed. On average, the service life of silent blocks is about a year. Also look at the condition of the rods themselves. They should not be bent, this problem is often encountered when operating a car on primers.

There may be cracks in the eyelets of the rods themselves. If there is the slightest doubt about the serviceability of the traction, it is necessary to replace it. Do not be too lazy to shake the part, it should not move. Otherwise, again, you should change the traction or at least.

What do you need to replace? It is most convenient to carry out work on replacing the rods on a flyover or inspection pit. This will allow you to get the job done as quickly as possible. If you have to repair a car out of the blue, just raise the right side of the car on a jack. You will also need or any other liquid key. An iron brush will not be superfluous. You will need a standard set of keys.

Replacement

Before starting work, be sure to put the car on the handbrake, and also put it under the wheels wheel chocks... When working on a jack, use an additional stand. This will secure the repair process. Please note that all thrust changes are completely the same. Therefore, the description of the replacement of one part will allow you to change the entire set. Replacement is made in the following order:

• Clean the screws and fastening nuts from dirt. This is done with a metal brush;
• Fill the fasteners with a liquid key. After that, it is advisable to wait a couple of hours until the rust gets wet;
• After that, we try to unscrew the nuts. If this fails, then the liquid key treatment is repeated. In some cases, the nut sticks so much that it cannot be unscrewed, in which case you will have to cut it off with a grinder. It is not necessary to completely unscrew the nut immediately, when its upper part is level with the end of the bolt, apply a few hard blows hammer. This will rip it out of place;
• Unscrew the nut completely and remove the screw. If he does not want to go out, then use a drift for this;
• Sometimes, the rod breaks off at the attachment point. Then, with the help of a mounting spatula, remove the debris of the part;
• To gain access to the second screw securing the jet rods, you will need to unscrew the lower mount of the shock absorber, pull out the bushing, and move the shock absorber to the side;
• The nut will be loose enough to loosen. The thing is that it is self-locking and has a plastic collar along the edge. So it is possible to avoid arbitrary unscrewing during operation;
• The screw is removed. Here, this is a pretty daunting task. According to the manufacturer's recommendations, in case of problems with extraction, it is necessary to remove the brake drum, platter, axle shaft. Then knock out the bolt. But, this is an extra amount of work. Therefore, it makes sense in case of problems, pour a liquid wrench on the fasteners and wait. If after that it was not possible to extract it, then it is better to take a grinder;
• Pull the rod out of the bracket using a pry bar.

In case of failure of the rubber bands, they are simply replaced, it is recommended to install polyurethane silent blocks, they last much longer. If the thrust itself is damaged, it is better to purchase a new spare part. It remains to install the part in place:

• Installation starts at the front of the linkage. Before installing the bolt, lubricate it with graphite or lithium;
• After that, the link is installed in the rear bracket. Here you have to tinker a little. The fact is that after removing the thrust, the bridge is slightly displaced. To install it in place, you will have to tighten the bracket in the desired direction, and accordingly displace the bridge. This should not be particularly difficult.

Replacing the rest of the rods is done in the same way. It is recommended to replace the rods in pairs. This will avoid unnecessary work in the future.

Conclusion... To ensure the normal functionality of the vehicle, it is recommended that the suspension be checked regularly. One of the most frequent tasks for the driver is the replacement of jet rods on the VAZ 2107. This work is required when the shock-absorbing rubber bands are worn out, as well as when the rod itself is damaged. This repair is not difficult, it usually does not cause problems. For work you do not need any special fixtures and tools.

Today we will tell you about the nuances, tips and secrets that are used by the owners of VAZ classics when replacing jet rods, rubber bushings of the rear suspension rods. This entire article is based on both my personal experience and the experience of members of the forum. We have simply combined the main points on replacement and problems that you may have to face into one article and present it to you. Questions, if you still have them, you can ask on our forum in the appropriate topic in the "Chassis" section. So - diagnostics. What can make us climb into rear suspension? Extraneous knocks, strange behavior of the car, expressed in wobbling along the road. Carefully inspect the condition of the rubber bushings - they should not be frayed, torn, etc.

So I will say right away - replacing the bushings is not a 5-minute matter. In general, when replacing the bushings, I took turns unscrewing each rod and immediately after replacing it screwed into place, then removed the next one. If you remove everything at once, it may be difficult to install, since the bridge will move. Now I will describe the process itself - at first I knocked out the metal bushings, some, due to the high wear of the rubber bands, fell out into my hands themselves. Further, an elastic band - so as not to steam with its pressing out, I took a hacksaw for metal, removed the canvas, threaded it into the hole where the metal sleeve was, screwed it to the hacksaw and made two cuts, so that a small piece of the sleeve fell out by itself, and then the rest of it was pulled out by hand. It is more difficult with the installation ...

You can use a press machine like this:

And you can go the other way. Initially, the rubber sleeve is lubricated with soapy water, so that it "slips through" and then: the first method is pressed in a BIG vice, sometimes not the first time, but it is pressed in, it is useless to press it in with your hands or with a hammer. And if there is no vice, I used the weight of the car and the domkarat, that is, I put the thrust down, put the bushing soaked in a solution to it, then I put the jack on top of them and raise the car for them. The machine presses the rubber bush into the rod with its weight. We do the same manipulations with metal bushings.

Returning to the issue of devices for pressing in bushings, the ball from the bearing with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing is very convenient, we put the ball on the bushing and press it in a large vice, the ball gently pushes the rubber band apart and all pressing is done quickly and without any effort. I pushed it all the way, pushed the vise apart, substituted something wider in diameter than the bearing, I used the extended pasatizhi, pushed and the ball is ready for new tests.

When disassembling (unscrewing) the rods, there are cases when the bolt has rusted to the metal sleeve, and it is impossible to get it out of there ... If you knock it out, then you have to scatter the floor of the bridge there. There is only one way out -

grinder. Cut exactly along the sleeve. First, cut from the side of the nut, gradually turning the bolt, since the grinder will not be able to cut off the entire bolt in one go, then cut from the side of the cap, also turning the bolt by the cap. For the convenience of work, cut off the bar itself so that it does not interfere.