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Despite the development of the auto industry, the classic VAZ models are still in great demand in the CIS countries. The latest models of the "Classic", namely the VAZ-2107, were equipped with injection system intake. It is more reliable than a carburetor one. But what to do if the VAZ-2107 starts up and stalls? The injector is a more complex system. But the problem can be solved by hand. Let's take a look at how to do this.

Does the starter turn?

First you need to check the voltage in on-board network car. For normal start-up of the machine, this indicator should not be lower than 12.5 V. To accurately measure the voltage, you must use a voltmeter.

The starter is a mechanism that requires a lot of starting current... It is this knot that turns crankshaft for start. Therefore, if the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start, the reasons may be trivial - low battery voltage. Elimination method - battery charging. You should adhere to indicators of 12.5-14 Volts.

Starter breakage

If there is a short in the body or armature wiring, replace the damaged part. How do I check an item? To do this, you need to use a multimeter. One wire is connected to the friction point of the brushes, and the second to the armature axis. If the arrow of the device deviated from the values, this may be a malfunction of the armature or winding. Check the brushes. They should move easily, and their springs should be elastic and press well on the anchor. After replacing damaged components, start the engine again.

Ignition system

What to do if the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start with a well-charged battery and a working starter? The reasons may lie in the ignition system. Here it is of the contactless type. The first thing to check is the condition of the candles. They can simply be "flooded". Unscrew the elements outward and inspect the condition of the electrode. If there is plaque, the part should be cleaned in an alkaline solution and screwed back. You should also check the gap between the electrode. To do this, use a special probe. The normal reading should be between 0.7 and 1 millimeter.

What if the indicator does not correspond to the norm? The electrode can be bent. But do it carefully. If the indicator is less than normal, use a minus screwdriver. If more, tap with an electrode on a metal part (for example, an engine valve cover). It will be useful to check the candles for the generation of a spark. For this, a special pistol is used. The spark itself should be blue. If the parts have traveled more than 60 thousand kilometers, they should be replaced. Also, when this period is reached, those coming to them from the ignition distributor change.

When the candles are filled

If the VAZ-2107 injector does not start well (it catches, but does not start), then the combustion chamber is full of gasoline. The normal fuel to air ratio should be 1:14. This problem often occurs on these vehicles. At startup fuel pump pumps a lot of gasoline. By the way, on injection motors it is electric, submersible. Installed directly into the tank.

How to dry candles without removing them? To do this, open the throttle valve when starting. It is mechanical here and is activated by pressing the throttle trigger through the cable drive. This will allow more air to enter the combustion chamber and the engine will start immediately.

Trambler

The VAZ-2107 uses a distributor ignition. If it is necessary to check the condition of the contacts on the high-voltage wires. Condensation forms on them when the season changes. The distributor has five outputs.

Four of them go to the cylinder plugs, and one (center) goes to the ignition coil. A white coating often forms on the metal ends. Because of it, the slider will not be able to transmit impulses to the coil. By the way, it will be useful to check the ignition distributor itself. The detail looks like this.

If it is burnt, the part should be replaced. The price of a new item is 150 rubles. If a spark forms on the ignition coil when starting the engine, replace high voltage wire... He also "breaks through" on the candlesticks. You can see this in dark time days. Small sparkles of blue are visible near them. In this case, the wires are changed as a set. They are inexpensive. New elements cost about 700 rubles.

Electric pump problem

Previously, one of the main problems on the domestic "Classic" concerned the fuel pump, which was constantly overheating. But in the fuel-injected "seven" it is electric and is cooled by the gasoline itself, which is in the tank. If no electricity is supplied to the element, the car simply will not start. The first thing to look out for is the fuse box.

It is written on the cover which one is responsible for the fuel pump. If the fuse is blown, replace it. A 15 or 20 Amp cell can be used.

Determine serviceability visually

Is it possible to check if there is voltage to the fuel pump without a multimeter? To do this, when you turn on the ignition, you should carefully listen to its work. When the key is turned to the third position, it should emit a characteristic hum. It can be heard in the rear of the passenger compartment. If it is not there and the VAZ-2107 (injector) does not start, the problem is in the voltage supply. It is worth checking the pump relay. It should emit characteristic clicks. Experienced motorists carry spare relays and fuses with them in case of sudden breakdowns. This relay is located on a shelf under the glove compartment.

Low pressure

Why does the VAZ-2107 (injector) not start? Problems can be hidden in the low level of the fuel line pressure. For normal start-up of the injection engine, at least 2.8 atmospheres is required. You can check this by disconnecting the supply tube from the ramp. Use a pressure gauge for this. Malfunctions with the pump can occur due to frequent overheating. But how does this happen if it is a submersible type? The fuel pump kills driving on an empty tank. If the light comes on, do not overtighten with refueling. The cost of a pump for an injection "seven" is 3 times higher than for a carburetor one.

Filter condition

The following situation also happens. You arrived at your destination, turned off the engine for two minutes, got into the car and could not start it again. What to do if the VAZ-2107 (injector) This may be due to a clogged fuel filter... Its replacement period is about 50 thousand kilometers. Also the fault of the difficult start is the dirty air filter.

If it has traveled more than ten thousand kilometers, then it must be replaced. Otherwise, you will run into startup problems.

VAZ-2107: the injector starts up and immediately stalls

In this case, check the MAF sensor. It is located just behind the plastic filter housing.

This element perceives information about the air flow and transmits it to the control unit. As a result, the electronics decide on the composition of the combustible mixture. The unit can intentionally adjust the concentration of fuel and air. The service life of the DMRV sensor is 150 thousand kilometers. The element can give false readings if contaminated. Because of the VAZ-2107, the injector does not start or it works and immediately stalls. You should also check the condition of the air connections for leaks. Replace if necessary.

DPKV

If in good condition fuel system the VAZ-2107 car (injector) does not start, if it is faulty, the control unit will stop supplying fuel due to the lack of information about its position. The cost of this element ranges from one to one and a half thousand rubles.

Conclusion

So, we found out for what reasons the VAZ-2107 car does not start. As you can see, you can find and fix the malfunction with your own hands, and for a small price.

Carburetor, pin.

Hello everyone.





  • First, determine what the problem is, with the fuel or with the ignition. And then you even change everything. When it stalled and does not start, check if there is a spark on all the candles and if there is benz in the carburetor. Poke it, does the elephant spray?
  • Most likely in the distributor it's a contact group, a bearing, a capacitor ...

    http: //site/russian/t1152337691.html

  • I had a wonderful defect - the rubber hose connecting the gas tank and fuel line... Accordingly, gasoline went on and on, unpredictably. A trifling defect, but how he got my brains, words cannot convey! How many times have I gone over the ignition and carburetor, and where I haven’t suddenly stopped! Oh, how I remember it!
  • Hello everyone.

    The car began to stall on the move (with a stuck gear, usually 3-4 / while squeezing the clutch - while stopping - at idle).
    It began with the fact that it stalled right from the exit from work. Turned the key - started up - drove on. Didn't attach any importance.
    In a day or two, it stalled "stronger" (in the same place). Didn't start for a minute. Started up - drove off. After a while, it began to stall on the go. I drive 20-50, in 2-4 gears, it can stall for a second, the car wants to stop right away, it cannot be overlooked, of course). In a second - two with the pusher starts up, goes on. The next morning I got up right in the stream. Plant did not want at all. Dragged home, changed the slider, started up and drove without problems, 10 days. Then the same thing started. On the first day it stalled at the exit from work, started up and drove off, the next day it stalled a couple of times on the move - it started from the pusher, the next day it stalled right in front of the house and was able to roll in neutral (50 meters remained). I especially liked it when on the same day I tried to die at the turn. Twitched as if in convulsions, as if riding a horse, like in a movie brake-gas, indescribable sensations. From the outside it looked awful, I guess). Changed the slider (again, yes). Started up with a half turn. A minute later, it died out and that's it. I looked - the fuel filter is empty, I turned the starter a little - the filter did not fill. I tried to pump fuel manually - no effect. I changed the pump, candles (it was time already), explosive wires, the car went like new. After a couple of days it started again. Today it has stalled at work and a couple of times in the city. Tomorrow I will stall in the stream ...) Stability is a sign of mastery.
    During all these situevin, the car was not very frozen (at least the arrow at the beginning of the white zone).

    Where to dig? I can't imagine (not a specialist in repair).
    Save, otherwise the city will rise because of me)

    On carburetor there are two main reasons: 1.Jets. 2. Vacuum. There are 3 more reasons, but not the main one, the electromagnetic idle speed controller. mainly manifests itself at speeds up to 60 km / h. Twitching, stalls at idle, dull acceleration with twitching.

    Last edited by Michael just Michael; 01/29/2017 at 17:13.
  • Hello everyone.

    The car began to stall on the move (with a stuck gear, usually 3-4 / while squeezing the clutch - while stopping - at idle).
    It began with the fact that it stalled right from the exit from work. Turned the key - started up - drove on. Didn't attach any importance.
    In a day or two, it stalled "stronger" (in the same place). Didn't start for a minute. Started up - drove off. After a while, it began to stall on the go. I drive 20-50, in 2-4 gears, it can stall for a second, the car wants to stop right away, it cannot be overlooked, of course). In a second - two with the pusher starts up, goes on. The next morning I got up right in the stream. Plant did not want at all. Dragged home, changed the slider, started up and drove without problems, 10 days. Then the same thing started. On the first day it stalled at the exit from work, started up and drove off, the next day it stalled a couple of times on the move - it started from the pusher, the next day it stalled right in front of the house and was able to roll in neutral (50 meters remained). I especially liked it when on the same day I tried to die at the turn. Twitched as if in convulsions, as if riding a horse, like in a movie brake-gas, indescribable sensations. From the outside it looked awful, I guess). Changed the slider (again, yes). Started up with a half turn. A minute later, it died out and that's it. I looked - the fuel filter is empty, I turned the starter a little - the filter did not fill. I tried to pump fuel manually - no effect. I changed the pump, candles (it was time already), explosive wires, the car went like new. After a couple of days it started again. Today it has stalled at work and a couple of times in the city. Tomorrow I will stall in the stream ...) Stability is a sign of mastery.
    During all these situevin, the car was not very frozen (at least the arrow at the beginning of the white zone).

    Where to dig? I can't imagine (not a specialist in repair).
    Save, otherwise the city will rise because of me)

    I haven't read to the end about the filter and the fuel pump. Dear, have you changed the mesh in the tank for a long time and checked the fuel pump yourself? A membrane for example? Okay, it doesn't pump manually (the camshaft rested against the stem) But from the starter for 3-5 seconds. the filter must be filled !!!

  • VAZ 2107 not best model among cars of its class, when compared with foreign approximate analogues. Nevertheless, due to its low price and affordable service, the car has been popular throughout the post-Soviet territory for many years. The car was produced from 1982 until 2014. That is, the most old model is over 30 years old. During such a period of operation, the owner will be able to face all types of malfunctions and investigate most of the causes of malfunctions.

    After several years of operation, the VAZ 2107, as well as the almost identical model 2105, begins to show a new character with changes not in better side... Malfunctions associated with power unit and its body kit have different character, but symptomatic:

    • the engine stalls periodically;
    • does not keep stable momentum;
    • unstable work on Idling;
    • hard to start;
    • insufficient power;
    • increased fuel consumption.

    All malfunctions appear for two reasons: violation of adjustments or wear of parts.

    Usually expressed in a spontaneous change in engine speed. Observed while driving and on idle... The most common reason for the running speed of the VAZ2107 / 2105 injection units is the failure of the DMRV (mass air flow sensor).


    This device controls the amount of air entering the engine. Based on these data, the ECU regulates the supply of the combustible mixture with the optimal ratio of fuel and air under different engine operating conditions. Accordingly, in the absence of this balance, engine speed begins to depend on the amount of oxygen supplied. That is, a breeze blew - the turnover increased, the verse - decreased.

    It is quite easy to make sure that it is the DMRV that is faulty. Disconnect the device connector and the ECU will go to emergency mode work. In this mode, fuel delivery is controlled by the throttle position. If the car began to behave more adequately, then the DMVR is faulty. You can drive like this, but power will drop slightly and fuel consumption will increase.

    A failed mass air flow sensor cannot be repaired, with the exception of contamination, so you can try to clean it.

    Algorithm for cleaning the DMVR VAZ2107 / 2105:

    1. Dismantle the sensor together with the protective cover.

    1. Unscrew the two screws and pull the sensor out of the base without touching the surfaces of the active element (current bent wire).
    2. Wash the casing with any dishwashing detergent.
    3. Using a cylinder with a cleaner for a DMVR or for a carburetor, based on alcohols (no acetone), gently clean the surfaces.
    4. Pour generously 3-4 times, the liquid should drain.
    5. Dry the device.
    6. Assemble the block in reverse order.

    If the problem persists, you will have to buy a new device.

    Unstable operation of the carburetor engine

    The nature of the unstable speed of the VAZ2107 / 2105 engine with carburetors is the same as that of the injection engine, in the uncontrolled supply of air or fuel to the combustion chamber.

    But in this case, the carburetor is responsible for preparing the combustible mixture. This is a completely mechanical device that is responsible for the optimal ratio of fuel to oxygen for different modes of operation of the power unit.


    Despite the fact that there are filters at the fuel and air inlets, they can work ineffectively, as a rule, due to a long service life, which exceeds that specified in the maintenance standards. As a result, small particles clog the carburetor jets.

    Drivers with great experience do not stand on ceremony much, they throw the VAZ2107 / 2105 carburetor into a bucket of gasoline for a day, then blow it from all sides with compressed air and the carburetor seems to be working normally. This is a normal solution, but flammable. Among the causes of engine malfunctions, which are caused by a breakdown of the carburetor, one can single out:

    • displacement of the position of the adjusting screws from shock or vibration;
    • an increase in the diameter of the orifice of the nozzles due to wear;
    • damper axle wear, limiting its stroke;
    • clogging of the jets;
    • violation of the tightness of the float.

    To determine the malfunction of the VAZ2107 / 2105 carburetor, and it is likely to be complex, start by checking the float for leaks. To do this, remove it from the carburetor top cover (it must be dismantled). If there is gasoline in the float - discard the float, if there is air - check in a basin of water for bubbles. Suppose he passed the exam, then it is necessary to check the gap.

    Lift the carburetor cover upright. The gap between the float chamber and the carburetor wall should be 6.5 mm.

    Install the carburetor cover and run the engine for 30 seconds. Remove the cover. The gasoline level should be exactly in the middle of the tapered surface of the carburetor body. If this does not work out, you should slightly bend the angle of the float rod.

    Over time, air and fuel jets will either clog or wear out. In the first case, they must be cleaned and blown out. In the second case, you should check the throughput of the nozzles using a water tank installed above the measured nozzle by 1 meter. They are connected by a tube. A volumetric flask is installed at the bottom. Measurements are carried out in units of cm3 / min. Depending on the marking of the jet, the volume of liquid collected per minute in a volumetric flask must correspond.

    It is much easier to buy a set of jets and replace them after 7-10 years of carburetor operation.

    Those who use gas installations should be aware that the carburetor is not used when driving on gas. Over time, oxide forms inside the dry jets, which clogs the fuel supply holes. A petrol car may not start. It is recommended to periodically use gasoline.

    Carburetor adjustment

    Carburetor adjustment consists of several steps:

    1. Adjust the position of the float as described above.
    2. Check and refit the "quality" and "quantity" screws. Screw them all the way in and unscrew 2-3 turns for the "quality" screw and 3-4 for the "quantity" screw.
    3. Connect a tachometer or auto-tester to the "K" terminal of the ignition coil, and the second probe to the body.
    4. Start and warm up the engine to a temperature of 90 ° C

    1. Use the "quality" screw to set the maximum idle speed. Gasoline flow is increased by turning the screw counterclockwise.
    2. Use the “quantity” screw to set the speed higher, approximately 80-90 rpm.
    3. Using the quality screw, we determine whether these revolutions are maximum, if not, then we repeat the procedure.
    4. If the position of the quantity screw does not affect the engine speed, tighten the quality screw so that the speed drops to 800-900 rpm.

    This carburetor adjustment may not be entirely accurate, but does not require special equipment.

    If the car stalled

    An engine that suddenly stalls not only creates an inconvenience while driving, but also poses a safety hazard to the driver and passengers. There are several reasons.

    Stalls at idle speed:

    • failure of the idle sensor;
    • failure of the throttle sensor;
    • failure of the throttle position sensor.

    Stalls on the move:

    • interruption of fuel or air supply due to a dirty filter;
    • fuel pump malfunction;
    • clogging of the carburetor jets;
    • overheating of the engine.

    It is better to start diagnostics of a car whose engine stalls in the most unexpected places by checking the idle speed sensor.

    It is easy to check its performance. Dismantle the device without removing the contacts, or connect them after dismantling. Hold the device in your hands, put your finger on the cone needle and ask your friend to turn on the ignition. If you feel jolts, then put the device back. The idle sensor is OK.

    If the throttle sensor is out of order, then the car will not only stall, but also will not start, because the ECU will give the command for maximum fuel emission, the candles will fill up and the engine stalled.

    If you are on the road in a VAZ car and there is a problem with the throttle sensor, then it is easier not to bother and contact the nearest service, but if you reached the garage, you can use the following instruction:

    1. Remove the sensor.
    2. Using a 2 mm drill, drill out the plastic cover in a circle.
    3. Take out the plastic pad of the upper contact block.
    4. At the bottom deck, clean the tracks with WD-40 or rubbing alcohol.
    5. Same with contact group top lids, but do not bend them, they will then prematurely eat the tracks.
    6. Reassemble in reverse order.
    7. Coat the contour with any glue for plastic.

    Not enough air

    Often the car starts up well, it rides on suction, but as soon as the suction is turned off, the engine stalls. This says only one thing - lack of air. The air jets are most likely clogged. They must be unscrewed and cleaned. Then check that the car should not stall without suction.

    There are an incredible number of reasons for the poor-quality operation of car units with similar symptoms, but only a specialist with a set of professional diagnostic tools can figure them out. But if you feel confident in yourself - go for it, in VAZ car services they are already waiting for you.

    Hello everyone today I want to talk about the reasons why your VAZ 2107 car stalls, and due to this unpleasant annoyance you can no longer continue driving on your iron horse. Today we will try to consider the main reasons why your engine stalls. Of course, unfortunately, there are a lot of such reasons.
    The first reason is problems with the idle speed regulator (IAC), usually the car stalls at idle. Pxx can fail due to contamination, and this leads to the fact that the stem wedges. To make sure you need to remove the IAC from the seven and rinse thoroughly in case of contamination. It is advisable to use a liquid that washes away the oil well.

    The second reason due to which the VAZ 2107 stalls is the alarm (if, of course, it is installed), in most cases the alarm works with the electric circuit of the gasoline pump, but where does this ask you? And besides, the unscrupulous mechanic who connected the alarm to you could do his job poorly from here and problems may follow. Moreover, if they did everything on twists, then over time it weakens, and everyone write letters, as they say. Power to the pump ceases to flow, as a result of which the VAZ 2107 will not start.


    The third reason is that the fuel mixture is too rich. You can check this version by unscrewing the candles, if the contacts of the candles are covered with black carbon, this means that the mixture is too rich. For how much gasoline is supplied to the cylinders, the position of the throttle valve, as well as the readings of the temperature sensor, is responsible; on a VAZ 2107 car, this sensor is located on the left in the back of the block head. If it becomes necessary to replace the temperature sensor, then you will have to drain some, then part of the antifreeze.
    Failure of the mass air flow sensor (DMRV) on the VAZ 2107 also leads to an enrichment of the mixture. You can check the operation of the DMRV using a multimeter. If the voltage is more than 1.002 volts, then it will have to be replaced.


    The fourth reason is the strong depletion of the combustible mixture. As a result, your "Seven" will also stall. This is mainly due to air leaks. The main places of suction are the gaskets of the intake system, or loosening of the fastening in the places where they stand. To find air leaks, a smoke generator is usually used to see where the smoke is being drawn in.

    And the fifth reason is vacuum amplifier brakes. Since air leaks can also pass through it. This happens due to a leaky diaphragm. You can determine a faulty vacuum tank on a VAZ 2107 by pinching the hose that connects the vacuum amplifier and the intake manifold, if the engine does not stall, then most likely you will have to change the vacuum tank.

    Well, that's all we have considered the main reasons why the VAZ-2107 car stalls, if you had other reasons, then write in the comments. Goodbye to everyone.

    This article will tell you about why the car stalls on the move. The reason for this phenomenon may be the most commonplace, but you will get a lot of troubles from this "behavior" of the car. In addition, the engine can stall at idle speed. There is little pleasant in this, the engine seems to start, but after a while it stops working. An option is possible in which the engine does not want to start if its temperature is close to the operating temperature. The engine operating temperature is about 90 degrees. And there can be many reasons, but you need to consider the main ones.

    The most common reason

    It is worth paying attention to the fact that all the reasons can be divided into several categories. Why does the car stall on the move? The reason can be trivial or complex. If we are talking about injection engines, then very often the regulator, which is responsible for the speed, fails. It is he who supplies the required amount of air to the fuel rail. The idle speed controller is a stepping Electrical engine, with its help, the channel is opened and closed, through which clean air passes into the ramp for mixture formation. So, first of all, you need to make sure that the idle speed regulator is working properly. To do this, you need to turn the crankshaft with the starter, at the same time depress the gas pedal. At the same time, the motor starts, but the number of revolutions is constantly changing. There is a breakdown of the IAC - the engine stalls when you press the gas. And the most effective method getting rid of such a nuisance is complete replacement element. You need to install a new one. On VAZ cars this is done literally in a matter of minutes.

    Throttle problems

    Quite often, the reason that the engine starts to stall is itself throttle... It is possible that the air filter has worn out, so the inside of the entire damper surface is dirty. To fix this breakdown, it is enough to clean the damper completely from the inside. Please note that after thorough cleaning, the problem may persist, the engine will still stall when you press the gas. In this case, it is necessary to make sure that the position sensor is in good condition. This sensor is a variable resistor. It is installed on the damper axis. Moreover, the maximum wear is observed in the extreme position (corresponding to the idle speed). If it fails, then it is necessary to completely replace it. The cost of the part is quite low, and the replacement takes place literally in a matter of minutes. But it is possible that the motor starts to stall, despite the fact that all the sensors are in perfect condition.

    Fuel quality

    Always keep an eye on what gasoline you use in your car. In most cases, all of the above symptoms appear as soon as you fill the tank with fuel. Of course, the engine can stall after some time. Therefore, it will be difficult to immediately determine the breakdown. It is also worth paying attention: the reason that the engine starts to triple, stall, should always be looked for in the gasoline itself. To cure such a "disease", you will need to completely drain the gasoline from the tank and replace the fuel filter. Unfortunately, you don't always buy quality fuel at gas stations. Therefore, it is worth choosing one brand of the manufacturer that sells the maximum high quality gasoline... Of course, there are times when the car stalls on the move (the reason for this is not gasoline). Note that excessively low cost is the first sign that gasoline is of questionable origin. And pouring it into the tank is tantamount to directing the car at full speed into the pole.

    Spark plug

    To make sure that they are in good working order, you need to unscrew them all, check the size of the gap, as well as the presence of carbon deposits. And your car stalls on the move. The reason may be hidden in the candles. In the event that there is a strong carbon deposit, but the gap is within the permissible values, it is necessary to clean the spark plug electrodes. But the best way out of the situation is to install new candles. In the same case, if the gap is very large, there is excessive wear of the electrode, cleaning will not help, it is necessary to completely replace the set of spark plugs.

    Fuel filter

    And here is another very common reason for which a car stalls on the move. VAZ or foreign car - it doesn't matter. But this is especially true for old cars. Some drivers simply forget that the car has a filter for cleaning gasoline. It is located at the bottom of the fuel pump. Of course, if there is dirt in the filter, gasoline will enter the fuel rail and the combustion chambers simply will not. Interruptions in the fuel supply will surely appear. In this case, you turn off the engine by pressing the gas pedal. To get rid of this malfunction, it is necessary to remove the gasoline pump, replace the filter. It is also worth considering that the tank itself can cause the filter to clog up soon. Therefore, either the replacement of the container or a thorough cleaning can help.

    Air filter

    The situation is similar as in the case of the gasoline filter element. Please note that the vehicle must be operated and repaired in accordance with the manufacturer's requirements. After all, you know that a mixture of gasoline and air is fed into the combustion chamber. Therefore, if any component of this mixture does not enter the fuel rail, the engine will stall. Consider an example of how a motor works when there is a lack of air. It gets into the combustion chamber too much as a result of which the candles are poured. In this case, it feels like the engine is suffocating. Among other things, some motorists who do not know about the principle of the engine internal combustion, can cover the inlet pipe with a rag so that no water gets into it. It's funny, but it also happens.

    Fuel pump

    If then, of course, the car stalls. At the same time, the carburetor will work perfectly, but nobody gives it gasoline. On injection vehicles the fuel pump is located under back seat... On carburetor ones - near the camshaft (since it has a drive from it). If it stops working, then the engine can function normally at idle speed, but when the speed rises, it will stall. However, if the gasoline pump is completely worn out, the engine will not start at all. To get rid of this malfunction, it is necessary to either repair the pump, or replace it completely, which is most effective. As for carburetor motors, the diaphragm drive rod of the pump can wear out strongly.

    Electrical equipment

    The problem of stopping the motor can also be a malfunction of the electrical equipment. In particular, the appearance of oxidation on batteries can occur. Whether old cars or new ones, they all need maintenance and care. Consequently, the contact deteriorates as the resistance increases, and this leads to the fact that the engine stalls. The battery itself may also fail. In the same case, if the generator does not deliver the required current, the entire electrical network of the car switches to power supply from the storage battery. If you do not see the lamp immediately on, signaling that there is no charging, the car will continue to move. Taking into account that the light will be on, and the ignition system is also working, after a while the battery will be completely discharged and the engine will stop. Will have to charge battery as well as completely repair the generator.

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