- fuel and oil consumption increases
- on idle there are extraneous noise and vibration
- dynamics deteriorates.
- engine stability drops
- CO-CH emissions are increasing.
Incomplete fuel combustion, driving on low revs, spark plug failures lead to the formation of carbon deposits on the cylinder walls, nozzle tips, spark plugs and deterioration of the engine as a whole. Regular cleaning of a car's engine helps to extend its life.
H2 removes carbon deposits with hydrogen, which is fed into the gas-air mixture. The used proton-membrane electrolysis unit is patented in the territory of the Russian Federation and approved for use.
The effect is felt immediately:
- the engine runs smoother and quieter
- reduced fuel consumption
- the car becomes more responsive and dynamic
- longer engine life.
It is safe. In addition, the engine support in good condition eliminates repair costs:
- the catalyst is not clogged. Carbon deposits come out in the form of fine dust
- hydrogen cleaning does not require opening the engine
- no additives, chemicals and other additives are needed
- no oil change required after cleaning
Why hydrogen
It burns out carbon deposits that have settled on the surfaces of the cylinders. Hydrogen ions react with solid deposits (soot), burn and are removed through the exhaust tract in the form of carbon dioxide, dust and steam.
Hydrogen cleaning of engines is applied to all internal combustion engines. H2 serves automobile, motorcycle, shipping, railway locomotives, aircraft engines and generators.
As a result:
- reduced fuel consumption
- harmful emissions are falling
- reduced vibration
- power and resource are restored
- compression is normalized
- cleaning of injectors and spark plugs
For new cars, the first cleaning should be carried out after 50,000 km, the subsequent ones - every 20,000 km.
During the operation of the car engine, coke and fumes are formed in the fuel combustion chamber at high temperatures. What it is?
How to determine on your own that coke and fumes have accumulated in a car engine?
Coke is the name given to solid deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber, which are formed when pierced without air entering. Fumes are small free-flowing residues of such coke. The oil scraper rings are not able to cope with this task, so there is nothing left to do how to clean the engine with your own hands.
Expert opinion
Ruslan Konstantinov
Automotive expert. Graduated from ISTU named after M.T. Kalashnikov with a degree in Operation of Transport and Technological Machines and Complexes. More than 10 years of professional car repair experience.
Coke refers to deposits of soot, burning and tar in an engine. Coke is formed for various reasons:
driving on low-quality fuel with a low degree of purification;
the use of various additives to increase the octane number, for example, some car owners use additives with a lead content to increase the 92nd gasoline to the 95th (despite the ban, it will not be difficult to find them on sale);
engine oil enters the fuel combustion chambers;
usage engine oil not suitable for this type engine;
driving on a cold engine with loads (especially important in winter);
movement at low speeds (traffic jams).
These factors certainly contribute to the formation of coke. But even if you exclude all of them and use only highly refined gasoline, it is still impossible to exclude deposits. It is an inevitable and natural product of engine operation. internal combustion.
Coke is dangerous in that it disrupts the operation of the engine and gradually leads to the need overhaul... Carbon deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber lead to a decrease in the volume of the latter and the appearance of detonation, the force of which will only increase with increasing carbon deposits.
Carbon deposits on the cylinder head interfere with normal heat dissipation, which causes overheating. Coke on the valves makes the channels for exhaust and incoming gases smaller, and this affects the drop in power and dynamics. Due to carbon deposits, the valves cannot close completely, sooner or later this will lead to their burnout. But the most terrible consequence is a decrease in compression and the occurrence of all the attendant problems due to coked oil scraper and compression rings on the pistons.
Note that when the engine is running, the oil from the exhaust valves is also together with the flow of the fuel mixture. The higher the vehicle mileage, the higher the likelihood that oil will enter the engine combustion chambers not only in the described way, but also through some other elements of the engine. That is why leaving this work "for later" is not worth it.
As soon as the first signs of "decoking" appear, immediately remove carbon deposits from the engine by removing coke from the entire surface of the machine's engine.
1. From exhaust pipe fumes constantly fly out, and a specific smell appears in the cabin when the ignition is turned on. When does it start cold engine, there is a "smokiness" effect.
2. Oil consumption is constantly growing.
3. Decreased car dynamics.
4. On Idling the engine runs unevenly.
5. In the cold season, the engine barely starts, although everything is in order with the battery.
Decarbonization methods
In order to perform decarbonization yourself, you can use one of two methods.
The first of them involves pouring pre-purchased funds into the engine cylinders through the openings of the candles, which loosen and remove coke deposits. This option is considered more effective, and it should be carried out on a warm engine.
In the second case, the chemical should be added to gasoline or oil. This method is less troublesome, but also less effective. If, nevertheless, you choose this method, then carefully read the instructions on the liquid packaging, noting how much substance, in what order and where to pour it.
Now let's consider the first method of decarbonization in more detail.
Prepare a screwdriver and purchased burn remover.
1. Remove all spark plugs.
6. Disengage the gear and be sure to crank the engine with the starter for at least 15 seconds to remove the fluid remaining in the cylinders. If you forget about this, the engine can be damaged due to water hammer. Before cranking the motor, fix the central high-voltage drive by creating a gap between the ground and the wire tip by a couple of centimeters. This will avoid breakdown of the ignition coil.
7. Tighten the candles, put the drive back in place and start the car. Do not be afraid of any difficulties with starting the engine, nor the appearance bad smell after this procedure. Smoke can go on the first 10 km of vehicle movement. You can drive when the car has been idling for about twenty minutes.
The formation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber of the engine is mainly associated with low-quality fuel. As a result of incomplete combustion of this fuel, carbon deposits appear on the walls of the chamber and piston crowns.
When carbon deposits reach a certain mass, a large number of problems may arise in the operation of components and assemblies.
Consider the main signs of engine pollution, how to find out about the need to remove carbon deposits, how and how to clean the power unit.
Key Signs of Engine Deposits
Carbon deposits and coke are the main products in the combustion of low-quality fuel. Under the influence of high temperature, when the amount of air is not enough for complete combustion of the fuel-air mixture, coke is formed. It settles as dense deposits on the surface of the combustion chamber walls. Small particles that separate from the coke form carbon deposits.
An important role in carbon formation is assigned to engine oil, which, in case of insufficient tightness of the engine components (piston rings, valve seals), enters the combustion chamber. Burning along with the fuel, the oil accelerates the deposit build-up process.
Carbon deposits in the engine lead to the following main malfunctions:
- problems with the "cold" start of the engine;
- a running engine smokes, does not work stably;
- exhaust gases mixed with burning;
- increased oil consumption;
- loss of power;
- increased fuel consumption;
- detonation and overheating of the engine at high speeds
Potential effects of carbon deposits in the engine
It not only reduces work efficiency, degrades overall performance, leads to great expense fuels and lubricants, but also increases the risk of serious engine damage and, as a result, costly repairs. The main possible examples of such consequences are:
- carbon deposits on the valves - the valve cannot close completely.
- deposits on the rings - the occurrence of rings occurs.
- the effect of potash ignition - uncontrolled ignition of the mixture from smoldering.
All of these examples can lead to critical situations. With strong coking of the valves and rings, the valve does not close completely, the rings become stuck, the compression in the engine decreases. As a result, the engine starts poorly, malfunctions, valves burn out - there is a need for expensive repairs.
Potash ignition provokes uncontrolled ignition of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders. The fuel ignites uncontrollably, the reason for this behavior is smoldering carbon deposits that ignite gasoline or diesel fuel. The motor overheats, there is increased wear of parts power unit, fuel system, exhaust system.
To protect the engine from negative consequences, it is necessary to periodically flush it from accumulated deposits and slags. After the appearance of characteristic signs, you can clean the already clogged motor. Consider how to clean the carbon deposits in the engine yourself.
Carbon deposits and coke are the main ways to get rid of them from the engine
There are two main options that can be used to clean the motor, let's take a look at each of them:
- clean the power unit with any flushing agent;
- disassemble the engine and mechanically remove deposits
As for flushing oils and fuel additives, this cleaning will remove small deposits in fuel system, lubrication system, combustion chamber and other places only if the contamination is negligible. Otherwise, in case of severe contamination, the deposits will not be washed off with such additives and the cleaning effect will not be achieved. Sometimes it is even possible to aggravate the situation and cause harm.
Many motorists are interested in the question of how to flush the engine from carbon deposits without disassembling? Therefore, we will consider a method in which the unit does not need to be disassembled.
- We unscrew spark plugs on gasoline cars, or potash plugs on diesel.
- Pour into the cylinders through the candle wells special liquid"Decarbonization".
- We wait a few hours - the cleaner softens the deposits.
- We screw in the candles and start the engine. The softened carbon deposits are burned out and removed from the cylinders.
After carrying out this procedure, use the oil remaining in the engine and oil filter it is impossible, they must be replaced. Getting into the crankcase of the engine, the washed composition saturates the oil and the filter with abrasive particles that are aggressive towards the cylinders.
To achieve the maximum effect of engine cleanliness, it is necessary to use a mechanical cleaning method. Its principle is simple - the motor is disassembled and cleaned of carbon deposits and coke by hand using an abrasive tool. Then it is washed with detergents with high surface activity. This method allows you to clean all hard-to-reach engine elements, including the lubrication channels and other elements.
Benefits of cleaning the engine without disassembly
Obviously, the main advantage is that there is no need to disassemble the power unit. Mechanical disassembly- a complex and time-consuming process that requires an impressive amount of work. Performing it only for the sake of cleaning carbon deposits is impractical. This procedure is typical when performing a major overhaul of the motor.
It should be noted that before performing the cleaning procedure, it is worth seeking advice from professional minders. A completely cleaned engine is beyond the power of even very strong chemicals, and improper use of it can cause damage.
The most common risk is clogging of the canals by particles separated from carbon deposits. Sometimes, with such a development of events, it is better not to touch the engine - this will allow it to operate for some more time. Otherwise, when trying to wash it, the likelihood of subsequent repair is very high.
Decarbonization piston rings and cleaning from engine carbon deposits, combustion chambers is an operation that requires regular use and can be done by hand without the help of a car service. Incomplete combustion of fuel leads to aging of the oil, affects its characteristics, and also forms carbon deposits, sludge, deposits.
Reasons for the formation of deposits in the motor:
- Heavy fuel fractions;
- Driving on a cold engine;
- Short distance trips;
- Prolonged idling;
- Operation at low and medium speeds;
- Stopping the engine after a long drive at high revs.
Coke and sludge are formed in places of the highest temperature, i.e. on rings, valves, in piston grooves, which causes coking of the piston rings, as a result of which the rings lose their mobility, which in turn leads to a decrease in power, increased oil consumption for waste, increased fuel consumption, and the appearance of smoke from the exhaust pipe.
The same symptoms may indicate mechanical malfunctions in the power unit and its wear. To diagnose and identify the cause, it is necessary to make a diagnosis. Most car services will ask you to check the compression.
By this parameter alone, it is not possible to say with certainty that the rings are coked or there is mechanical wear and need to be repaired. The deviation from the norm of compression has its own reasons, and more than one. But, as a rule, it all boils down to one thing - big compression due to the presence of oil in the cylinders, small - wear of the cylinder-piston group. In both cases, they will offer to disassemble the engine. Determining the state and passing judgment on one parameter is the same as poking a finger into the sky and resembles fortune telling on coffee grounds. Let's look at an example. The rings got stuck in the piston groove and lost their mobility. In this case, the compression will be less than normal, while the rings themselves are in good order. In another case, the coke clogged the groove and the rings lay directly on it and also lost their mobility. In this case, the amount of compression will be higher than normal, and the rings will be subject to mechanical wear on the cylinder walls. Both cases do not imply interference with the power unit by disassembling and troubleshooting, and the decoking of the piston rings will come in handy. With this operation, it will be possible to remove carbon deposits and return the mobility of the rings, as a result of which the pneumatic density of the cylinders will return to normal, and with this power, fuel and oil consumption.
Means for decoking piston rings and cleaning engine carbon deposits
Removing carbon deposits from the engine, valves, combustion chamber indiscriminately with the help of auto chemistry preparations, additives, kerosene allows you to carry out this operation yourself. But, not everything is so cloudless. We will not describe how to do this with the help of laurel, or the use of liquid moths, kerosene and similar preparations, which usually include kerosene and acetone. The design of the power unit and the arrangement of the cylinders do not always allow you to do this efficiently and without removing the motor. The in-line arrangement is the most favorable for this operation. You can also set the pistons to a central position and achieve the distribution of the product over all surfaces. The same cannot be said in the case of the V-shaped, and even more so the opposed arrangement of the cylinders. The decarbonizer and de-scaling agent will always only act on one side - the tilt side of the cylinder angle. In addition, we must not forget that if the rings are tightly and deeply embedded in the piston groove, then most of the chemistry, when introduced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, will slip past the rings, along the cylinder walls into the sump. In this case, there will be no effect. In addition, some pallets are painted on the inside, and chemical compounds can react and corrode the paint, as a result of which flakes of peeling paint can clog the oil receiver grid, which in turn will lead to a drop in pressure in the oil system and failure of the entire power unit. ... So, at first glance, harmless independent decoking of piston rings and cleaning the engine from carbon deposits by means of auto chemistry can lead to disastrous results.
The next method is grandfather's and proven, without adding fluids and additives, to enable the engine to run under load at high speeds.
This safe method helps in case of not strong carbon formation, and restores the mobility of the rings. The disadvantages include a possible memory photo for exceeding the speed limit.
If flushing, getting into the oil, allows you to clean the engine of all types of deposits, while disposing of them, and not spreading them throughout the oil system, restoring the elasticity of the oil seals and rubber seals, on the one hand, then the catalyst, getting along with the fuel into the combustion chamber, ensures complete combustion of fuel, including heavy fractions, as a result of which the combustion rate and its temperature increase, which allows you to burn out those deposits and carbon deposits that no chemical agent on the other hand can clean. The result of the complex effect is the complete decarbonization of the piston rings and the cleaning of the engine, pistons, combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits. Both products are safe. Their effectiveness has been proven in practice. The Service-S-Auto technical center shared the results of the use of means for cleaning the engine and combustion chamber on the example of a 2006 Subaru Impreza car, with a 1.5-liter boxer engine, mileage 76,000 km. At the time of the visit, Subaru was increased consumption oils, fuels and smokiness. The compression results were: 8, 11, 11, 8. After applying the flush and catalyst, the compression became 12, 11.5, 11.5, 12. The alternative for the boxer is only with the removal of the motor.
Also, engine oil and other technical fluids have a negative effect on rubber and plastic elements under the hood (wiring insulation, covers, seals, all kinds of plugs, etc.). If in the case of plastic there is a risk of spoiling appearance element, then rubber products soften, crack and collapse, that is, they cease to perform their functions.
For this reason, experienced car enthusiasts try to avoid heavy contamination of the engine. To solve the problem, some drivers practice washing the engine with Karcher, others wash the engine with dry steam. Also, many car owners prefer to wash the unit on their own, that is, at home. Moreover, in all cases, the main task is to prevent damage to electrical equipment as a result of moisture ingress. For this you need to know.
However, this is not all. In order to obtain better results after washing the engine, special cleaning compounds should be carefully selected. In this article, we will talk about how to wash the engine from the outside, as well as which engine oil cleaner is better to choose.
Read in this article
Engine cleaner from oil and dirt: why is it needed and features of choice
To begin with, dust and other contaminants that enter the engine compartment from the outside are not the main problem. Most often, the need to wash the engine arises due to the fact that the engine and transmission oil, working fluid brake system, Power steering, etc. in the process of active operation, it flows out.
Quite often, the driver himself spills oil, antifreeze or brake fluid past the filler neck. As a result, the material falls on the outer surface of the engine, the engine compartment becomes dirty. Further, the dust begins to actively adhere to the created streaks, forming a dense layer of oily dirt.
In high heat conditions, such dirt spreads intensively over surfaces. As a result, the thermal mode of the engine operation can be violated and. It is quite obvious that it will be difficult to wash off such contaminants with plain water, soap solutions or car shampoos.
At the very least, it will take a long time to get any result. For this reason, it is optimal to use a special cleaner for the external surface of the engine for these purposes. Given the fact that there are a lot of similar compositions on the sale for removing deposits, dirt and oil drips, do right choice can be difficult.
Moreover, each manufacturer promises that its composition will be the best solution. In this case, in practice, it may turn out that the product does not cope with the task at hand or allows only partially washing off the dirt. For this reason, a review and test of engine cleaners helps to determine the choice.
The best external cleaner for oil and deposits from the engine surface: test and comparison of popular formulations
As already mentioned, today on the market there are a large number of means for washing and cleaning internal combustion engines from the outside. Among the most famous solutions, one should highlight external cleaner engine Runway, Felix, Turtle Wax, Sintec, Kerry, Mannol, Kangaroo, 3ton, Grass, Abro, Liqui Moly, ASTROhim.
As you can see, there are really many compositions, there are products of domestic and foreign manufacturers. To select the most effective solutions from a popular list, experts have carried out comparative test engine cleaners.
In short, specially prepared dirt was applied to the previously prepared aluminum plates, which served as an imitation of the surface of the cylinder block and cylinder head. To prepare the pollution, the engine oil was worked off, then fine sand and salt were added there.
Additionally, separate scrapings of dirt were taken from real engines, after which everything was thoroughly mixed into a homogeneous mass. After applying such a mixture to the plate, it was placed in a thermal oven, where it was baked for 2 hours at a temperature of about 90 degrees Celsius, which is close to the actual heating of the ICE surfaces during operation.
How to wash and dry the motor yourself with improvised means. Basic tips and tricks for a safe do-it-yourself engine wash.
