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Some car owners, eager to increase the power of their car and improve dynamics, put a filter zero resistance... It is difficult for an uninitiated person to judge how justified this is. Among motorists, there are directly opposite opinions about such a modernization of the car. Some argue that installing a zero resistance filter significantly increases the power of the engine, which is strangled by a standard air filter. Others are sure that one "zero" is not enough to improve the power characteristics, and therefore it makes no sense to put it. In addition, there is a widespread belief that such a device is much worse at cleaning the air entering the motor.

The truth is hidden somewhere nearby, or rather, in the middle of these two conflicting opinions. We will tell you what, in fact, a zero resistance filter is, what are its disadvantages and advantages, compared to a conventional filter, and also talk about its maintenance.

Zero resistance filter: what is it?

Air contains many mechanical particles and chemical compounds. First of all, the dust that gets into the cylinders of the engine is capable of disabling it. To prevent possible breakdowns, the air must be cleaned. This requires a mechanically cleaned air filter.

Engine power depends on the amount of air contained in the working mixture. The more the air is filtered, the less it enters the engine, and the more the power is reduced. Standard paper filters are very resistant to air because they are made from a very dense material. As the filter becomes dirty, the pores of the filter become clogged, and, in general, it ceases to pass anything, significantly increasing the air resistance.

Its filter component has several layers of cotton fabric impregnated with a special mixture and installed between an aluminum screen. It allows airflow into the engine to pass almost unhindered. Dirt particles are deposited on the filter fibers without reducing the filter's capacity. The zero resistance filter is called this way because it practically does not interfere with the penetration of air at the intake. Moreover, this property of "zero" does not affect the quality of cleaning. It is for this reason that it is installed on sports cars.

Pros of a zero resistance filter


So, let's list the main advantages of a zero resistance filter:

  • Firstly, it is an increased power factor without a decrease in the quality of air purification. The filter has a more complex design, which guarantees low resistance, but at the same time, effective filtration, which protects the piston system from wear and the intake system from clogging.
  • Secondly, there is no need to change the filter every 15 thousand km. Cleaning component is easy to rinse special liquid, after which it acquires its original properties.
  • Thirdly, the filter of zero resistance emits a characteristic sound inherent in racing cars and a few additional "horses". And at medium and low revs, torque appears.

It is worth noting that in order to obtain a tangible increase in power characteristics and torque, you should remove the standard air filter housing assembly with a filter cartridge and install a cone filter - zero, which is selected in accordance with the diameter of the seat.

Cons of a zero resistance filter

As the saying goes: "Not all the cat is Shrovetide." Unfortunately, the zero resistance filter also has a number of disadvantages, which can override all the advantages of this product. Let's list the main ones:

  • The zero resistance filter requires regular maintenance.
  • The cost of a high-quality zero filter is several times higher than the price of a conventional filter.
  • The driver practically does not feel the increased power of 5-6% when the filter of zero resistance is installed, since physically a person cannot catch the difference in power less than 5 Horse power.

Feasibility of installing a zero resistance filter

Make no mistake that removing the filter with the housing will significantly increase engine power. This is not the case at all, and all sorts of measurements confirm this. The reason is that the developers calculate the valve timing in advance, taking into account the losses for air filtration. In addition, you should not risk the condition of the engine, since it will quickly fail in untreated air.

An obstacle for debris in the form of an air filter is a must. Minimum flow resistance can be achieved only by expanding the passage holes, slightly impairing the quality of filtration.

Summing up, we can say that if your car does not have a sports engine, then spending several thousand on a zero resistance filter is inappropriate. Still, this is the privilege of racing cars, and for an ordinary engine, there is just a beautiful thing under the hood.

Another conversation, if you decide to comprehensively modify the car engine with a turbo or the installation of sports camshafts, cylinder bore. In this case, the zero will have to be in place. Together with a zero resistance filter, you can purchase an increased throttle, which will increase the return from the intake system of the engine.

Maintenance of a zero resistance filter

Installing a zero resistance filter obliges the car owner to regularly rinse it and soak it with a special liquid, which also costs money. Moreover, the processing should be carried out according to a certain technology, instead of a simple algorithm of actions "removed and placed". It is impossible to miss the moment of filter maintenance, since such negligence threatens to increase fuel consumption and reduce the power of the car.

  • At the first stage of servicing the filter of zero resistance, remove it and, armed with a brush with soft bristles, carefully clean the filter element from coarse dirt.
  • After that, a special solution is applied on both sides of the filter and wait 10 minutes until complete impregnation.
  • Next, it must be rinsed in a basin with water, and then substituted under a weak pressure of running water.
  • They don't dry the zero, they just shake the water off it.
  • The dry filter should be carefully inspected for light spots. If they are present, then the impregnation with a special solution will have to be repeated.
  • At the last stage, we put the filter in place.

Conclusion

Now you know what a zero resistance filter is and can conclude that it is advisable to use it. To reinforce the knowledge gained, we recommend watching the following video:

One way to increase engine power internal combustion the car is a decrease in resistance in the air intake - exhaust system exhaust gases... It is known that removing the muffler and catalyst can increase engine power by up to 10%.

Likewise, removing the air filter completely can increase power by up to 8-10%. That is why in the 20th century, many racing cars air filters were simply not installed in mobiles. However, in this case, the ingress of dust particles into intake system significantly reduced engine life.

Considering that modern engines race cars cost fabulous money, the designers were given the task of developing air filters with zero resistance to the intake air, and it was solved. Now such filters (motorists often call them "zero") are affordable for ordinary car owners and their popularity is increasing.

Why do you need zero and how does it work

When operating an internal combustion engine, it is necessary to protect the air intake channel from dust, small particles, fluff, insects and other substances that are not in a gaseous state. In principle, even gaseous water (steam) also destroys the piston group.

To protect the engine, an air filter is installed in all vehicles equipped with internal combustion engines. Without such a filter, the engine life can be reduced up to 10 times.

On most cars, standard filters are made of a special, as a rule, paper composition. Such material has tiny pores (holes - micropores), which prevent the smallest particles from passing through the filter.

The more such pores, the less resistance the filter will provide to the passage of air. Therefore, most air filters are made in the form of an "accordion" to increase the area and number of pores.

Video - what problems can arise when using the zero-wheel in various modes:

During the operation of the car, such air filters quickly become clogged, as their resistance increases.

The idea behind zero resistance filters is that the pore size in them is increased to slightly impede the passage of air flow. The filter material itself (as a rule, a fabric base made of a special material), as it were, attracts dust and small particles to itself, where they settle. This "attraction" is based on the physicochemical processes of electrification and adsorption.

There are two main types of filtration:

  1. Dry filtration. Filters of this type are less effective. Research shows that the maximum increase in engine power is less than 5%.
  2. Impregnated filters. Their efficiency is higher (up to 7% increase in power). Dust and particles settle on the oily impregnation.

Where to install zero in a car

Three options are possible here:

1. In an abnormal location, that is, separately from the standard air intake system.

This option allows you to install a filter of any design that will fit under the hood of an existing car.

This installation method has a big drawback. Air will enter the engine from the engine compartment, not from the external intake.

In addition, the air will be warmed up by a running engine, that is, of a lower density, therefore, with a lower oxygen content. This minus eats up almost all the benefits of a zero resistance air filter.

2. In a regular place.

In this case, it is necessary to select a filter of a compatible design. In modern cars, air filters are generally rectangular (trapezoidal).

The maximum efficiency of rectangular filters with zero resistance does not exceed 5% (cylindrical - about 7%).

3. Installation on a modified design of the intake system.

Most effective method installation, however, requires certain skills and additional costs for re-equipment of the standard system of air ducts and intakes.

Pros and cons of zero resistance air filters

First about the poles:

  • increase in engine power. Specifically, the power increase factor can be judged only on the basis of tests for each installation option. Do not trust advertisements. The efficiency can be from 1 to 8%;
  • reduced fuel consumption. For owners passenger cars this characteristic can be decisive when installing a non-standard zero;
  • for dry filters, the procedures for installing and maintaining the filter practically do not change (it should be remembered that they are less effective than serviced zeroes);
  • changing the "sound" of the engine. This plus is more suitable for the younger generation of motorists.
  • price. The price can be up to 10,000 rubles. A mediocre zero will cost about 2,000 rubles, but even this is more than the cost of a regular consumable.
  • an abnormal installation of a zero resistance filter can have negative effectiveness if heated engine compartment air is supplied to it;
  • the need for maintenance (impregnation) of the zero resistance filter after 2 - 3 thousand kilometers at the same time as cleaning. The procedure takes time and additional costs;
  • its installation is effective only in the complex of car tuning works. No efficiency gains exhaust system often the installation of such a filter does not make sense at all (especially with a clogged catalyst);
  • it is not a fact that the engine management system will adequately perceive the increase in air flow. In the air intake system of each modern car there is a flow meter (). It instantly "calculates" the change in the mass air consumption and corrects the engine operation. That is, when installing the zero, it is rational to perform chip tuning of the car engine control unit. This operation is costly;
  • there is no 100% proof of the effectiveness of installing zero resistance filters in conventional cars. For racing cars, everything is clear: every additional horse is expensive there, regardless of the costs. The installers there are professionals. Control and adjustment is carried out on professional equipment. At the disposal of ordinary motorists - only advertising;
  • in case of an abnormal installation of the Federal Tax Service, questions may arise during the passage of a technical inspection.

Video - does it make sense to install a zero, if additional tuning work is not carried out:

How to properly maintain

The sequence of maintenance of the filter of zero resistance:

  • cleaning with a special brush (you can use soft clothes, you can additionally use a vacuum cleaner);
  • flushing the filter (it is possible with special compounds, even the household "Laska" is suitable);
  • drying for 12 hours (not close to the battery);
  • application of a special impregnation for the FTS from the air inlet side - two times.

Do not exceed the amount of impregnation, as surplus can enter the engine. The packaging of the Federal Tax Service and care products must contain instructions for use and operation. For some filter models, the maintenance sequence may be different.

The "filter of zero resistance" (although it is correct to speak of "reduced" resistance, it cannot be zero) is one of those internal combustion engines that have established themselves in the mass consciousness as a must have item. You can see the zero filter both on a serious tuning project and on chinese scooter... Moreover, the owners of such filters do not at all represent either their principle of operation, or the rules for caring for low-resistance filters.

What does the zero resistance filter give?

In an internal combustion engine, the working fluid is atmospheric air. The more it enters the cylinder, the more fuel burns in it, the higher the temperature and pressure during the working stroke of the piston. Hence the increase in torque and power.

But, the higher the engine speed, the stronger the influence of the resistance of the intake tract on the filling of the cylinders. If at low revs for gasoline engine the filling is still cut by the throttle, then in the "slipper to the floor" mode, the power already depends on the configuration of the intake, the settings of the receiver and the resistance of the air filter.

What is a "zero" resistance filter for? by definition it resists the flow of air. Even if you remove the filter, turbulence at the cut of the air intake pipe will create some losses in filling - it is not for nothing that bell-shaped forms are used in sports receivers.

Moreover, a high-quality filter with a high degree of purification, with an equal surface area, “strangles” the motor more than one that passes all the dust into the cylinders. Therefore, earlier on sports engines air filters were not installed at all - at most, nets were attached to the air intakes to protect against accidental stones. The resource of the motors was still calculated for several races, and the increased abrasive wear of the cylinder-piston group was not critical.

But the technology, which was used not in such extreme modes, and just without rich sponsors, the problem of resource reduction due to the lack of air filtration was acute. Therefore, the "zero filter" has become a kind of compromise between the throughput and the degree of air purification.

Structurally, "zeroes" are made of two types of materials: cotton or large-porous foam rubber, but the essence of the work remains the same. The filter curtain itself does not filter sufficiently, its pore size is effective only against relatively large particles. This ensures low resistance to air flow.

The impregnation for the zero resistance filter - a special sticky oil that envelops the microcells in the filter curtain - fights against fine dust. While the air flow passes through the "labyrinth" of the curtain, microparticles adhere to the oil film.

For this reason, filters of this type require regular flushing to remove dirt and old oil and new impregnation.

Foam filters are the most effective in terms of air purification: it is not for nothing that they are already used from the factory on many motorcycles, the operating speed of which can exceed the five-digit mark. Foam rubber is easy to clean, has sufficient thickness so that dust has time to adhere to the walls of the cells. Cotton "cones" and curtains are much less convenient to clean because of the rigid reinforcing mesh inside, and their effectiveness (especially in cheap models) is less.

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Pros and cons: is there a sense of "zero"?

In reality, the difference with and without a filter is noticed only on a dynamometer. The benefit of reducing the resistance of only one element of the intake system appears exclusively in the "full throttle" mode on high revs, in the standard urban driving cycle, the effect of the "zero filter" is exactly zero.

Even for uprated engines, the reduction in intake resistance is a dime a dozen. Take, for example, a graph taken at the booth with a Nissan Skyline ECR33, whose RB25DET engine has already deviated from the standard configuration:

The result is not bad - 250 horsepower on wheels. But, if you remove the air filter altogether - to ensure that the intake resistance is reduced even more than that of a high-quality "zero" - we will get the second graph:

The drop in power after a peak of 5000 rpm has become smoother, but the difference in numbers is negligible: its increase without a filter is only 8 horsepower. With the 250 hp we already have, it’s impossible to notice anywhere other than the track, when the count goes to hundredths of a second.

And for these pennies you have to pay with the complication of maintenance and the deterioration of air purification.

Filters of "zero" resistance have the "right to life" only on (and first of all on forced ones, and not supercharged). But even there, the installation of a "zero" is one of the many stages of fine-tuning: installing wide-phase camshafts, adjusting and grinding the intake channels, adjusting the receiver. Otherwise, the zero air filter is nothing more than a harmful, albeit beautiful, accessory.

In addition, the oil impregnation of "zeroes" is itself capable of causing problems on engines equipped with fuel mass flow sensors. The air flow, passing through the filter, entrains oil microparticles, which then settle on the walls of the inlet pipes and directly on the surface of the sensitive element. Because of this layer, which works as a heat insulator, the mass air flow sensor begins to "lie", giving an incorrect signal for injection. And here, with the "gone" composition of the air-fuel mixture, the conversation will not be about a microscopic increase in peak power, but about a tangible drop.

In some cases, the FTS installation itself is even capable of reducing the maximum engine power. Installing a fashionable cotton "cone" or foam rubber "mushroom", you have to dismantle the standard air filter box and air intake. If the layout of the engine compartment is unsuccessful after this "anti-tuning", the engine receives not air that is close to atmospheric temperature, but already warmed up, passing through the radiator. An increase in air temperature for every 10 degrees Celsius gives a loss in density of 0.04 kg / m3 - and the average atmospheric two-liter motor, spun up to 5000 rpm, drives 35 - 40 cubic meters through itself per minute! As a result, an engine with an air filter of zero resistance receives less air in terms of air mass than with a standard, supposedly "strangled" intake.

The inevitable harm from the use of zero air filters is the accelerated wear of the cylinder-piston group. Even the results of air purification of these filters, declared by the world's leading manufacturers (for example, K&N), do not exceed 99% under ideal conditions and with the use of an expensive branded oil for impregnation. Air filter with a paper curtain is capable of filtering from 99.5 to 99.9 percent of dust. It would seem that the difference is not great - but after several tens of thousands of kilometers we will talk about the difference in whole grams of dust that got into the engine cylinders. Moreover, as it gets dirty, the paper filter only increases the degree of filtration: dust, clogging the pores, reduces the flow area, and they become able to retain smaller particles, albeit at the cost of increasing resistance.

In the case of "zero" particles, the contamination on the pore surface reduces the probability of adhesion of new particles, and the cross section of the pores is still larger than the size of the filtered particles, as the degree of contamination decreases, the degree of purification decreases with little change in resistance. Previously used contact-oil air filters suffered the same, where oil soaked the fishing line stuffed inside (structures familiar, for example, from trucks and motorcycles). "Nulls" have become a more compact and lighter version of these filters, long supplanted by paper filters.

And mistakes when servicing the filter make the rate of wear only higher. Someone manages not to impregnate filters, someone uses cheap aerosols or oils that are completely unsuitable for impregnation. Try rubbing a drop of the branded oil between your fingers; it's so sticky that it won't even be easy to wipe off your fingers. Other oil will not give any noticeable improvement in cleaning compared to a filter that is not soaked at all.

The only plus for engines that have not undergone serious tuning, from the installation of "zeroes" can be considered the absence of the need for regular replacement: it is necessary to wash and re-soak the same filter in time.

Video: Air filters "zero" - evil or tuning?

I'm talking about filters of zero resistance. To be honest, I myself thought to install one on my car, but despite all the simplicity, it turns out that there are a lot of pitfalls here. Therefore, you need to weigh all the pros and cons, which we will do in this article. In general, really true information from the person who almost bought it (but stopped in time). Looking ahead, this is not at all the "zero" that you thought about ...


To be honest, this is a very controversial tuning of your engine, why you will understand at the very bottom, if you are impatient, immediately scroll down, watch the video, but if you want to get information about what is said “on the shelves”, start from the very beginning.

To begin with, I will repeat a little (there is information in the last article) and remind you - why do you need a filter element at all?

Why do you need a filter in the engine

It's very easy to catch all the filth that flies in the air - fluff, leaves, midges, but especially dust. This whole thing adversely affects the engine inside, since dust is the smallest particles of sand that will simply melt at high temperatures. And they will settle inside on everything and everyone, some clever person figured that without an air filter, the engine's service life drops 10 times! So it is needed in any case - that is, it is not discussed, if you want an axiom.

Why is the staff so bad?

Again, everything is simple - as we all know, an internal combustion unit has only 4 strokes, this is intake, compression, ignition, and exhaust gas removal. The engine, on the intake stroke, sucks the air-fuel mixture into the engine cylinders, if gasoline goes along its own line, then the air is sucked in from the environment. If there was no filter, it would be sucked in with everything that came across (midges, dust, etc.), but the filter protects from this - however, it is a kind of plug that prevents the air from passing normally, that is, resistance is encountered.

The standard filter element has a significant coefficient of resistance, often taking 5 - 7% of the motor power. This is understandable, it practically does not allow dust particles to pass through, it is made of special paper.

This element is far from ideal, it seems - everything is simple, but damn it, there is no solution and that's it! Or is there?

Zero resistance

Of course, there are - filters of zero resistance have long been created, which practically do not delay the air supply, that is, they give the motor "breathe deeply", they simply give 5 - 7% of the power concealed by standard elements, and this indirectly affects both consumption and dynamics acceleration and maximum speed- such a budget tuning.

The principle of such a filter element is a specially selected material from which it is made. As it is assured that these are large pores and a minimum of paper in the structure. Usually cotton fabric is used, several layers, which is located on a special aluminum screen.

However, the "zeroes" are not the same, they can be of two types.

Varieties of filters of zero resistance

At the moment, two structures are distinguished:

  • No impregnation or dry - as it is assured, not as effective. It looks a bit like a regular regular filter element, but the materials used are completely different. Gives a power increase of up to 5%.
  • Impregnated. The most effective one is made of fabrics (several layers), impregnated with a special oily composition. Dust enters it and settles on the "oil" (grease) and remains there. Power increase up to 7%.

It is the second type that has become widespread, which is "soaked", because we are fighting for power, and 2% (of the first type) is essential. However, it has much more disadvantages, for example, every three thousand kilometers it needs to be washed, dried, then soaked again - otherwise the dust and other deposits that it retains will clog it tightly, the performance and air flow will drop many times, that is, it will become even worse. than a regular filter. In this regard, the first option is much more effective - it needs to be changed every 10-15,000 kilometers, in principle, like a regular filter element.

To a regular place or not?

Often, anyone who thinks about installing such "zeroes" has a choice - to put the air filter in the regular place or put a separate one, that is, bypassing the standard box. Often, many firms make a separate one, it certainly looks impressive, but is its installation justified? Let's take a look at each of the situations:

  • ... That is, without regular placement. According to the manufacturer, these options are the most productive, that is, they are capable of delivering just up to 7% of the power. YES and look impressive under the hood. However, there are many controversial points, the whole point is that - a heated engine has a high temperature, and this element sucks air, so to speak, just on top of the engine, there it is about 50 (and in summer all 60) degrees Celsius. The point here is this - the density of hot air is much lower than that of cold air, so such a filter turns out, even loses in power, because it supplied hot air - its density at 50 degrees Celsius - 1.109 kg / cm3 ... Whereas air at 20 degrees has a density of 1.204 kg / cm3 ... The difference is almost 10%, here's your increase in power, you will lose even more and the effect of such an element will be negative than positive.

  • To a regular place ... Now they are sold for almost every car, that is, you can throw out the standard one and put a "zero" in your car - square, in general, as we are used to. However, as the manufacturers assure, its performance is lower, that is, it can give up to 5% to power. But such a filter of zero resistance has its advantages, namely - standard system the air intake is usually located either next to the wing or under the engine, where the air is much cooler. Thus, we increase its density (that is, we suck from the bottom), and not from the top hot. It turns out that this is exactly the effect of a 5% increase in power.

That is, the second type in a regular place wins in almost all respects.

Advantages and disadvantages

Needless to say, it seems like there are some pluses:

  • Increases power.
  • Due to the passage of a large amount of air, the flow rate decreases, because, like an engine, it is not overstrained.
  • It can be installed in a regular place, that is, for almost any car, nothing needs to be redone.
  • It can also be changed after 10 - 15,000 kilometers, as standard options.

However, there are also disadvantages:

  • It is expensive, if you take branded ones, the price can go up to $ 150 (about 10,000 rubles), when a regular even branded one costs only about 1,500 rubles (maximum), and analogs can be bought for 200 - 300 rubles. In fairness, there are filters of zero resistance, which are cheaper - about 1,500 - 2,000 rubles, but compared to analogs, this is ten times more.

  • If you install a separate one, then you not only may not feel the increase in power, but also lose it, due to the suction of hot air from the top of the engine.
  • If you take the option with impregnation, you need constant care for it, every 2000 - 3000 kilometers - be sure to wash it, clean it and lubricate it again, otherwise you will not only get power, but vice versa - it will fall. Very uncomfortable.
  • There is still debate about the effect of these filters, some say that they give absolutely nothing, others, on the contrary, but where is the truth? I don’t really want to pay 2,000 rubles (and even more so $ 150) for what.

The truth about the "zeroes"

Well, here we come to the most interesting thing, namely, if there is any sense from them at all. After all, you can talk for hours how wonderful they are, but if the effect is zero, then everything is in vain.

One of the most honest tests is a dynamo test, when they drive the car to measure its power before installation, with a conventional element or "stock", as they say now. Then they install a filter of zero resistance and run it again - according to theory, the power should increase by 5 - 7% from the stock one! BUT tests have shown that this is not at all the case, that is, there is either no effect at all, or there is, but insignificant, at the level of 1 - 2% that you will not notice at all.

I will say this - I also thought to put myself such a filter in order to raise the power, but it turned out to be all bullshit, just a marketing ploy or "show off" like tuners. But to overpay for do not understand something - as it does not really want to.

Among the parts for tuning a car, the zero resistance filter takes a special place. Usually, the tuning process begins with him, and there are several fairly weighty reasons for this.

The filter itself in its design differs markedly from its factory counterparts in terms of outward appearance, and the principle of action.

The factory filter allows air to flow directly into the engine (to enrich the combustion process). At the same time, the factory filter with the help of paper honeycombs traps various kinds of particles (dust, dirt, other foreign elements) that can damage the walls of the engine and disrupt optimal operation.
During the cleaning process, the air flow slows down the penetration into the engine and not all the incoming air enriches the mixture.

The filter of zero resistance, based on its name and function, does not prevent the penetration of the air mixture, and the engine receives oxygen in an amount that is often excessive to enrich the mixture.

Benefit and harm

About the benefits of using this device, numerous disputes do not subside. On the one hand, during its installation, a small increase in the power of the car appears, on the other hand, it is harmful, since the air mixture is not filtered when it enters the power unit.

In any case, for car owners who decide to seriously tune their car and increase the engine power, this accessory becomes a must.

In the filter of zero resistance, the density of the material is not as high as in the standard one, and a different material is used for filtration (in the factory version these are high-density paper pores, in the tuning filter - a fabric based on gauze with a low density).

On video pros and the disadvantages of a zero resistance filter:

Cost for foreign cars and for domestic cars (Vaz, Priora)

The cost can vary depending on several indicators:

The type of vehicle for which the filter is intended. If for a domestic car with a small engine volume (the most common 1.6 liters), the cost will be quite democratic (from 1,500 -3,000 rubles), then for foreign cars with a large volume, a filter will be required, respectively bigger size and its cost will be about 5,000-10,000 rubles;

Manufacturers

There are many manufacturers of zero resistance filters on the market. The cheapest and most common are Chinese manufacturers. However, in terms of quality, such filters do not shine.

So in cheap filters the filter material is often unknown (what it is made of, what properties it has), so the owner who has saved may cause irreparable harm to his car in the future (as a result of the complete absence of air filtration, the motor becomes clogged with dust and dirt particles, and may fail).

European and American manufacturers Numerous tests are carried out for their filters, as evidenced by the certificates of conformity to certain models.

In addition to increasing power, such filters will keep the engine safe only slightly worse than factory products.

On video filter zero resistance for vaz:

For those who want to know what the disadvantages of the engine tuning chip can be, you should follow the link and read the content of this

It is also worth reading the information about

Model brand and volume of the power unit

The larger the engine displacement and the more prestigious the car brand, the higher the cost of the product. This applies to all categories and manufacturers.

Mounting

Installation as for domestic cars and for foreign cars has the same principle. Everything can be done by yourself on their own and hands.

  • First you need to remove the old factory filter.
  • Since the zero resistance filter has a different shape than the factory part, its installation is impossible. Therefore, installation takes place with one end of the filter to the inlet pipe, the other end is mounted to the body of the place where the standard part was located. Depending on the brand and model, some peculiarities may arise, but the principle will remain the same.

On a video filter of zero resistance with your own hands:

Pros and cons of using

Adherents of using zero resistance filters for tuning civil cars put forward a number of arguments in favor of its use:

  • Large bandwidth. Due to the use of a different filtering material, the resistance to air flow to enrich the fuel mixture decreases, the power of the car increases proportionally (if you use a filter without any additional improvements, then the increase in power will be insignificant within 3-7%);
  • Use of quality filter materials... Filter proponents point to the use of high-performance gauze materials instead of conventional paper honeycombs. Due to which the quality of air filtration, in their opinion, does not decrease, thereby the damage done to the engine is minimized;
  • Supporters appeal to the laws of physics. Large particles of dirt and dust when they enter the air flow by inertia deviate from the general air flow and are retained on the filter element;
  • Due to the multilayer surface structure, the filter element retains particles more efficiently.

On the video filter of zero resistance pro sport:

Oil use and filter care

To increase the effect, the pores of the filter are in some cases impregnated with oil.

There are special types of oils on sale for treating such surfaces. To maintain efficiency, treatment should be carried out every 3000 - 5000 kilometers.

Since the fabric used in the "zeroes" is created on the basis of cotton, oil treatment becomes an obligatory procedure.

In the video, how to clean the zero resistance filter:

Opponents of zero impedance filters argue for the following:

  • Inefficiency of use without complex tuning... Using only one filter without making additional changes to fuel system, intake and exhaust systems, into the engine, incommensurate with the negative consequences for the engine;
  • Dubious increase in power... The use of such filters leads to an increase in engine power (due to enrichment of the mixture), but it is rather difficult for an ordinary motorist to notice the effect;
  • Engine damage... Air filtration is noticeably impaired, which ultimately leads to a deterioration in the optimal engine performance and has the opposite effect (a decrease in power and an increase in fuel consumption).

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