At first prehistory.
In general, the brake system was planned to be improved immediately after I bought a car. And even most of the necessary parts were purchased and were waiting in the wings, but there was not enough time and there were also a lot of other things to do. As a result, the brakes themselves began to give up asking for replacement. It all started with the fact that one evening, moving home late in the evening, I suddenly noticed that my path was beginning to intersect with a dog flying out of the bushes. Little so .. almost headlights. (She was not black and I was not tired (for fans of the movie "black dog")). And before this blank for the cap there are 10-15 meters left, soon ... As a result, having estimated that I am alone on the road with the flea-drier, I twist the steering wheel to the left and pull the handbrake, squeeze the clutch ... He puts the car sideways and takes it to the oncoming lane where he stopped ... To put it mildly, the doggie, without even thanking, dumps about his business from the scene. I take off the parking brake, the back one, take my lane and drive further to the house. Toka I notice that the car behaves incomprehensibly. It resets the speed as it quickly, pulls the couple to the side. He stopped, the wheel did not seem to be punctured and figs with him. I'll get to the house, then. Approaching already to the house, I drove through a puddle, and stopped almost immediately. I get out of the car, and steam is coming from the rear wheel. I'm in shock, with the figle it turns out like that, I try the drum with my hand and pull my hand away, it’s not sickly so ... You cannot even take a wheel disk with your hand. Well, now I think it's clear why the car drove to the side and dropped it faster. And the funny thing is that in the morning to go to judge the competition and it is on it to go and pick up people. As a result, in the morning I went ... after driving 20 kilometers, the car, after another bump, went easier ... I was released. But the brakes feel worse. Already then they decided that everything. We must deal with the brakes closely ... Even the day was appointed ... after a week and a half it turned out. Until that time, the handbrake was abolished. And then came the evening before the day when it was planned to start work. In the morning, it was planned to drive from one end of the city to another, pick up a friend and colleague in the DPS Garage, Pashka, and go with him for welding, which was necessary for work, then again through the whole city and back to the garage. I also had to buy some brake lines and some bolts. The rest was…. And then the morning came. Satisfied, I jumped into the car, started and drove into a straight line, checked the brakes out of habit. (I ADVISE TO EVERYONE TO TAKE FOR THE RULE !!!) And the pedal once, and left, and the machine rolls ... I am shocked "in a pancake funny". Lano doesn’t care, I’ll go to Pasha and so on. I arrived neatly, but what to do, welding is needed, you have to go. Traffic jams. Along the ascents we got to the place and took the welding down and down the tin, what a steep descent ... And most importantly, when the cops went up there, they caught the descendants for the speed. Well, I think, damn it, we'll set a record for them. Lano doesn't care. Third, I squeezed the clutch and started rolling .. after dialing 80 I let go of the clutch and the car as it quickly dropped to 40-50…. The driver behind the shah clearly did not expect this and barely slowed down. Roaring dviglom, we got to the end of the descent, where the gadgets were no longer standing, went to the garage ... Inspection, during the dismantling of the brakes, showed a hard brake hose, on the front right wheel it was simply bitten by something. But it was already all the same. The work has begun! Dumping everything that was required to rework the brakes on the hood, and later shifting everything necessary to the workbench, namely ...
1) brakes 2112 assembled or caliper and caliper separately (on the right and on the left side)
2) 14 ventilated brake discs (2 pieces)
3) brake hoses 01 with bolts and copper rings (2 sets)
4) Slide guides (4 pcs)
5) Brake pads
6) Litol
7) Brake fluid. (1 - 1.5L)
8) Bolts with nuts as required and desired
9) Hub bolt (2pcs)
10) Transitional faceplates
... started disassembling the front brakes. 
Having disassembled the front brakes to a bare steering knuckle and painted the components ... 
... started putting together new brakes. By screwing to steering knuckle faceplate immediately inserted the lower caliper mounting bolt into it... You need to do it about necessarily, otherwise then you will have to disassemble everything, then you will not insert it already. 
The next step was to install the old hub. Before installing it, it had to be well lubricated with lithol. Then counter. 
Further, when the hub was restored and in place, they put on brake plates, a spacer and tightened the guides. 
Next, it was the turn of the brakes.
We immediately unscrew the native "tenth" hoses and fasten the classic ones through the classic bolt. Otherwise, there is a high probability that while driving during suspension operation and cornering, you will interrupt or break the brake hose. 
If you have any doubts about which support to put on which side, then the answer is simple. The bleed connection must be up. They will stand up and vice versa, of course, but you can't pump such a system. Simply don't remove the air. (the photo below is an example of how not to collect) At first we collected just the wrong thing and were surprised for a long time (we were very tired that day ... driving without brakes is very annoying) 
Well, when you collect it, and throw in the brake pads 
then you get something like this 
And then we pump the system and get high! There is only one BUT! Discs are now needed only from diameter 14 and above!
After 14 brake plates and "twelfth" mechanisms were installed, and in front of the machine was a complete rework brake system, it was decided to install the master cylinder and vacuum amplifier from the VAZ-2108. The solution, of course, does not shine with novelty, but it is very effective. The stumbling block was the adapter bracket for 08 VUT and, accordingly, 08 GTZ along with it. The fact is that on the classics that comes with VUT master cylinder the clutch is at a greater distance from the brake assembly than on the old classic system. Hence the problem with installing an adapter for the field under the eighth vacuum cleaner, and, accordingly, the problem of attaching this vacuum cleaner to 01 classic. Having searched in vain for the subject on the ruins and the correct drawings in the internet, we decided to stir up our own. For there was no time to wait and look for something, and this time was running out. The first step was to remove the native master cylinder 
As you can see in the photo below, the mount on the classic old stock is much different from the one on 08 VUT. On the classic, on the left, on the brake pedal there is a pin on which the GTZ drive rod is put on. At 08, the system is different. There is a Y-shaped loop that covers the pedal. And bolted through it. 
Stirred up here is such a product. It will serve as a spacer. For our transitional house is warped on the bolts (in the photo they are to the left of the spacer) of the pedal assembly, and everything is smooth with it. 
The bearing part was cut off from the standard 08 VUT attachment. The rest is in the trash. 
Also, the mating part was cut out of metal. We drilled holes in the places where the pins protrude under the standard GTZ. 
Well, then, having cut 4 corners and adjusting them, they began to weld them. 
Well, actually the first fitting. she is also the last one. everything fit perfectly 
The product was primed immediately. 
Well, then the crane itself was screwed to the VUT crane according to the seats to the body. 
First of all, having measured how much it does not reach the rod on the pedal, they chopped the old GTZ drive 
Cutting off one eyelet on 08 vacuum cleaner, we welded an old loop to it. Having secured the house on the car, they began to screw in and put our mount on the pedal. After a while, the result was achieved. 
Next, we connected the brake pipes to the front wheels. The rear drowned out
The length of the standard tubes will not be enough, so you must immediately bear in mind that you need almost the same length, only 30 centimeters long.
The next step was to make a hydraulic handbrake. It was expensive to buy. We decided to make it from the clutch master cylinder and the handbrake handle of the eighth or tenth family. The cylinder was chosen from UAZ. It is larger and will be able to pump tenths of the brakes at the rear (which was the next step in the brake rework). We complicated the task for ourselves by the fact that the brake force regulator (front / rear) had to be embedded in the brake system. it was decided to fix it up together with a hydraulic handbrake. After examining the designs of the existing nodes and making measurements, they first sketched a preliminary drawing. 
Having cut off a plate of the required length and width from the sheet of metal, they began to saw it into its component parts. As a result, 4 parts turned out. Lower. The part on which the GCC is mounted, the part on which the handbrake is attached, as well as a small piece of metal that served as a plate for attaching the force distributor. 
When all the parts were ready separately, we welded them together and tried them on for the first time. Again, everything matched perfectly. 
Everything converged perfectly, so they immediately reinforced the structure by welding the plates on the sides. 
The drive on the clutch cylinder was also redesigned under the handle of the heap. 
Well, and the final touch - this is the connection between the regulator and the GVC brake pipe and found an adapter from UAZ pipes to VAZ pipes. Having fenced off all the components of our product, we brought everything together. 
The hydraulic hand is ready!
The rest is only to fix in the cabin as it is convenient. We did it like this. 
The final step in the re-equipment of the braking system was the installation of rear disc brakes. A preliminary study of Internet forums and conversations with the owners of these devices yielded results. The coordinates of Mikhail Elfimov were obtained (ladaclub.vrn.ru/modules.p...le&mode=viewprofile&u=279) from whom I purchased adapter plates. 
The stumbling block was that it was necessary to grind the axle shafts in order to put pancakes on them. Option was 2. Either pull out the axle shafts and give it to the machine, either to a master, or a grinder and ingenuity. The second option was chosen, since it was impossible to immobilize the car, and the faceplates were made in such a way that they ensure installation without removing the axle shaft. The last feature is good in that it greatly facilitates the conversion process in terms of time and labor costs.
No sooner said than done. Arriving at the garage, they threw off the wheels and took off the drums, then all the giblets were taken apart. 
Then they began to grind the semi-axle with a Bulgarian. A small note: when grinding the left side - turn in the back, while grinding the right side - turn in any of the 5 gears. 
Soon the axle shaft was ready. For example, you can compare the photo of the axle shaft at the time of parsing the standard brakes. 
Cutting off the standard protection, we started assembling. Picking up the bolts along the length, and slightly editing them, they pulled the faceplate to the semiaxis (with small protrusions on the left, with large ones on the right). 
Then the brake disc was fitted and the clamps were also screwed in. 
The next bolted element was the bracket. 
Well, in the wake of her came the turn of the caliper and pads. From the caliper, I advise you to immediately twist the hose that comes with the kit and screw in its place the native classic hose. 
Well, that's actually all on this front. They put on the wheel and that's it. 
Next, under the car and connect new brakes on the system. 
We pump everything over and go to try if you don't have a brake force regulator. Then you have to grind the brake pads from the sides so that the rear does not overbrake.
PS: If you want to repeat what you have done above and you have any doubts and questions, please do not hesitate and ask these questions. BRAKES ARE NOT JOKING!
Every year it is more and more difficult for the owners of old cars of category N 1 to "cure" their diseases and drive in the same stream with modern, more dynamic models. Components and assemblies from machines of later release and alteration of systems according to their model help to solve these problems.
Improving the efficiency of the brakes in these cars will help drivers to feel more confident on the road, to prevent dangerous situations arising from a longer braking distance than other cars.
The most affordable and reliable way to improve this system is to use the currently produced hydraulic vacuum booster 4, separator 5 and brake alarm 7, as shown in Figure 2.17 (this option is coordinated with the traffic police). Tubes with a diameter of 6 mm are used, with a wall thickness of 1 mm, with the same flaring and union nuts as in old cars. We fix the new units on the body in any way, but reliably enough.
Figure 2.17 - Diagram of the hydraulic brake drive: 1 - front wheel brakes; 2 - tee; 3 - a hose with a diameter connected to the engine intake manifold; 4 - hydraulic vacuum amplifier; 5 - brake separator;
6 - control lamp; 7 - alarm indicator; 8 - main brake cylinder; 9 - rear wheel brakes
As a design development, a signaling device 7 is proposed, which is designed so that in the event of failure of one of the circuits of the separate drive under the influence of a pressure difference, at the first pressing of the brake pedal on the instrument panel, the lamp of the faulty circuit is lit, which in turn increases the braking efficiency ...
After assembling the system, pour the BSK fluid into the main brake cylinder 8 and, turning the valve in the brake separator by 2 ... 2.5 turns, pump alternately the brakes of the rear and front wheels, then the hydraulic booster.
We wrap the separator bleed valve with the brake pedal released.
As always, doing this work, add fluid to the master brake cylinder so that air does not enter the system.
If all brakes and their drive are correctly adjusted and there is no air in the system, the brake pedal, when pressed with your foot, should not go down more than half its travel, and the warning lamp should not light up when the ignition is on.
To improve the braking efficiency on sports cars, “sports brakes” have been developed and are being installed today; a set of such brakes can be represented in the form of Figure 2.18.
Figure 2.18 - Set of brakes of a sports car
Let us dwell on each of the elements of Figure 2.18 in more detail. The task of the brake disc is to absorb the kinetic energy of a moving car and dissipate it into the environment, that is, the kinetic energy goes into thermal energy, and the thermal energy from the disc goes into the environment, so it is clear that it heats up during braking, and when the car accelerates, it cooling. Consequently, the thicker the disk and the larger its diameter, the higher its heat capacity, the more energy it is able to accumulate. However, an increase in the size of the brake disc also leads to an increase in its weight, which increases the unsprung mass of the car, and its thickness is not used rationally. Therefore, ventilated brake discs are used in motorsport. They have two washers connected by jumpers in such a way that channels are formed inside it through which cooling air circulates, i.e. during the rotation of the wheel, it works as a centrifugal pump (Figure 2.19). This solution leads to both a decrease in the mass of the disk and an improvement in its heat transfer.
Figure 2.19 - Brake disc with spiral channels
The brake pad must provide a high coefficient of friction (braking efficiency directly depends on its value) in the entire range of speeds, pressures in the brake drive and temperatures of the brake disc. It consists of a metal frame to which a friction material is molded (Figure 2.20).
Despite the need to reduce the mass of the brake mechanism, the metal frame is made, as a rule, massive in order to more evenly distribute the pressures on the friction material.
Figure 2.20 - Pads of a sports car
Friction material is a complex composition containing 50 or more components. This is due to the complexity of the physicochemical processes occurring during braking. The brake lining must provide reliable braking at temperatures up to 600 ... 700 ° C. At the same time, it should not collapse, providing the necessary resource, and also firmly adhere to the metal frame. It should also be remembered that as the temperature rises, the friction material becomes softer, i.e. it shrinks harder.
From all that has been said, it is clear that "sports" driving in order to ensure reliable braking of the car at any speed requires a more careful approach to the choice of brake system components than usual on public roads. However, the achievement of this goal, as a rule, leads to an increase in its value.
The following are accepted as indicators of braking properties: braking distance when braking a car with maximum efficiency; stopping distance, taking into account the distance traveled by the car during the driver's reaction time, and the response time of the brake drive; the amount of vehicle deceleration.
The influence of tires on the braking properties of a car is very great and is especially noticeable on wet and slippery roads. The braking properties of one and the same car on some tires may be insufficient, while on others they may well meet the necessary requirements to ensure braking efficiency.
The braking properties of a car are mainly dependent on the grip of the tires. The coefficient of adhesion depends on many factors and, first of all, on the type of surface and condition of the road, construction and materials of the tire, air pressure, wheel load, driving speed, heating temperature and braking mode. Wheel grip on a dry, hard road practically does not depend on the degree of wear of the tread pattern, but it is of decisive importance on wet and especially covered with a layer of water or mud roads, when the magnitude of the friction force in the plane of contact of the tire with the road decreases sharply. As the wear of the tread pattern increases, the depth and volume of the drainage grooves between the protrusions of the tread pattern decreases, as a result of which the drainage of water from the contact zone sharply worsens and the adhesion of the tires to the road drops sharply.
Improving the braking system of a car is the topic of today's article. As the ancient saying goes, a coward came up with the brakes, but sometimes it takes a lot of self-control and driving skills to firmly and in time to press the pedal, secured by the reliable operation of the car's braking system. Many car owners are self-tuning their cars.
Increase in power power unit leads to the fact that braking becomes less effective and can lead to irreparable consequences. The installation of a more powerful disc brake system will help to correct the situation.
Why install disc brakes instead of drum brakes? Their very first advantage in design: thanks to faster cooling, disc brakes are more durable and are subject to less overheating, even after a series of intense pressures at high speeds.
And the option with the use of a front brake disc and a modernized brake caliper on the rear wheels is also much more powerful than the standard drum brake system installed by the manufacturer.
Of course, power and energy consumption are good, but the expected effect may not occur. Why? When braking, the front and rear mechanisms of the vehicle are in different conditions. The car is "pressed" by the front axle, and the rear braking system remains inoperative.
To achieve optimal performance of the braking mechanisms, the wheels must be locked absolutely synchronously, otherwise the loss of stability and, as a result, skidding is inevitable.
The brake force regulator is responsible for the equivalent blocking of the wheels. Its work consists in the fact that it regulates the pressure in the brake cylinders of the unloaded axle and prevents its breakdown and unwanted slipping.
Improvement of the car braking system - when installing a more powerful brake system, it is necessary to readjust the regulator. This is where the problems begin: the car slows down no better than with the standard drum system. The following happens: the brake force regulator, as it should be, evenly distributes the load on the front, weaker brakes, and tuned rear brakes to the detriment of the efficiency of the latter.
The most rational solution in this case is to replace the front brakes with more powerful ones. This will help keep the system fully balanced. The result will delight you, and it's not even a matter of stopping distance.
Disc brakes have a number of advantages in addition to being powerful. First, they are more accurate with minimal backlash and come into play quickly.
Disc brakes are devoid of self-tightening, in contrast to drums, which, against the will of the driver, increase braking force resulting in harsh, hard-to-control braking. The first thing that those who put in a set of disc brakes notice is not the increased deceleration rate, but the smoothness of the braking.
Improving the braking system of the car - get used to the good, and in this case also to the safe.
Are there such owners who are absolutely satisfied with everything in their car? You can treat tuning in different ways, but is there someone who would never want to improve the head lighting, put on "music" abruptly or add "horses" to the engine. All of this is usually doable, but before starting to improve dynamic characteristics your car, you should teach him ... to brake, and to do it effectively. Pay attention to such a vital, literally and figuratively, part of the car, like the brakes, should also be paid to those who are not interested in setting speed records, but at the same time are not completely satisfied with its functioning, poor responsiveness and low sensitivity. Today we will focus on such a topic as tuning the brake system.
How does the braking system work?
Brakes were used on vehicles for a long time, long before the appearance of the car, and during its existence this system has not fundamentally changed. Let's briefly consider the device of the car braking system and how it works. There are 2 main parts.
1. Brake drive, which includes:
· Pedal.
· The main brake cylinder (GTZ).
· Pipeline system.
· Amplifier.
· Wheel brake cylinders.
2. The brake mechanism, there are two types: disc and drum.
The principle of the system is as follows. Pressing the brake pedal affects the GTZ. The piston installed in it moves and increases pressure brake fluid in the piping system connected to each wheel. The fluid presses on the caliper pistons, which press the brake pads against the disc and, due to mechanical friction, the car stops.
The reasons for the ineffectiveness of the braking system
What to do if the performance of the standard braking system is not satisfactory, or work is planned to improve the characteristics of the car as a whole? In any case, tuning the brakes is something with which, no matter how strange it may seem, all work must be started.
Retrofitting the braking system can be done in a variety of ways based on the goals set. Consider 2 typical cases: when you just need to improve the convenience and ability of the car to damp speed for normal operating conditions, and a significant improvement in performance for those who like dynamic driving, especially if an increase in engine power or an increase in vehicle weight is planned.
Easy tuning
Those who prefer a relaxed driving style but are not satisfied with the way the brakes work can be advised to replace the stock brake discs with a larger diameter and possibly thicker model, which will help improve ventilation and disc cooling. Accordingly, you will have to install an enlarged caliper, because the old one may not fit the new disk. The presence of perforations and grooves on the surface of the brake disc under normal conditions, most likely, will not give any benefit, but in difficult weather conditions, when water, dirt, de-icing agents, etc. get on the disc, these additional holes will help to quickly clear such mud film and restore the reliable interaction of the disc and pads.
Due to the fact that the caliper is used bigger size, the area of contact between the pads and the disc surface increases, which means that the braking efficiency will increase. New pads with better friction characteristics should also be selected.
Deep tuning
In the event that a whole range of work is planned with the car, including the revision of the engine in order to increase its power, making changes to the suspension, transmission, etc., those works that lead to an improvement speed indicators car, a simple replacement of disks is indispensable. Fans of speed, active driving style will need sports braking systems.
Similar work is done when the weight of the car increases significantly, for example, when booking. Such modernization will be useful for escort and escort vehicles, the efficiency of the braking system of which is important for the performance of their functions.
For such tuning of the brake system you will need:
· Install an efficient, perforated, large diameter brake disc with increased thickness and grooves for good cooling and cleaning of sludge and water film.
Install a large caliper with 4, 6, 8 or more pistons to achieve high performance due to the large area of the contact patch of the pads with the surface of the disc and the uniform distribution of the force of their pressing on the disc.
· Replace standard brake hoses with reinforced ones to prevent them from swelling at increased pressure in the hydraulic line.
It may be necessary to use larger diameter wheels and tires with improved grip. Owners of powerful sports cars may consider installing ceramic discs that are durable, lightweight, and perform best at high temperatures.
What to install
For tuning the braking system, we offer to buy Frando brakes, produced for installation on many car models of all popular brands. This Taiwanese manufacturer is little known in our country, but has been producing exclusively brake systems for cars and motorcycles since 1993 and has international certificates ISO-14001 and TS-16949. This manufacturer started out with the production of brake systems for railway rolling stock. The kits produced by him are high-quality products, differ in a variety of models and dimensions, and a low price.
Vehicle safety
The ability of a car to accelerate quickly, move at high speed, be obedient in turns are important, but perhaps even more important is the ability to decelerate quickly and efficiently. The life of not only those who are in the salon, but also those around them depends on it. Careful attention to the performance of the braking system is confidence in the car you are driving, confidence in the safety of yourself and others. Even light tuning is cheaper body repair, and the costs of nerves, time and effort cannot be estimated at all. Watch your car and let the braking system stop it.
The modern rhythm of life requires constant acceleration from humanity. This is significantly reflected in the technological evolution of vehicles. Manufacturers produce cars with improved powerful engines, which requires improvement and modernization of the machine's braking system. This is the main unit that is responsible for road safety.
Brake tuning can help make your ride safer and your braking distance shorter.
Today, the most important issue for motorists is tuning the brake system. This aspect is of interest to both drivers of vehicles with uprated engines and owners of ordinary cars who are prone to high-speed driving. Consider in this article, the brakes to get the most positive result.
Features of the choice of brake units for tuning the brake system of a car
Tuning of brakes is used by motorists to reduce the braking distance. vehicle as well as more effective braking when driving at high speeds. Before proceeding with the modernization, it is important to understand that the parts that need to be purchased are of a high price category. To get an excellent result, you need to install new and improved modern parts on the car.
Components such as brake discs and calipers, hoses and pads are responsible for the effectiveness of a car's brakes. In order to carry out a complete tuning of the brakes, it is desirable to simultaneously replace all parts of the system. Let us consider in more detail what the elements of the vehicle's braking system are needed for.
Brake discs and calipers
The main part of the car's braking system is the discs. From a technological point of view, braking is the transformation of mechanical action into thermal energy due to friction, which is characterized by high temperature indicators. Basically, the discs are made of cast iron, which is resistant to high temperatures, has a high hardness, which provides protection against deformation and guarantees a long service life of parts. And also the design features of the disks affect the quality of heat energy removal.
Tuning brake discs are of different types:
- Ventilated, which outwardly resemble two disks glued together. This design allows air to pass between the discs, which increases the cooling rate of the part. They are characterized by high strength.
- Perforated discs have transverse slots. They have not worked very well, as they often show cracks and breaks near the drilled holes.
- Notched discs are in great demand by motorists. Self-cleaning well from dirt and carbon deposits due to design features... However, they are noisier when braking.
Modern discs are made of wear-resistant ceramic or carbon. Parts that are produced using such technologies are distinguished by a high level of heat energy removal and service life, however, the cost of goods has a high price threshold. If you are the owner of a sports car, then the most practical solution would be to choose carbon fiber products, they are resistant to high temperatures. For ordinary cars, experts advise not to buy them, since they need to warm up well for effective braking. For owners of standard vehicles, ceramic discs are more suitable. They are lightweight and can cope with their tasks under different temperature conditions.
Brake pads
Tuning a car's brake system cannot be complete without replacing conventional brake pads with special ones, which are characterized by a higher coefficient of friction. However, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the pads, which are designed for more powerful vehicles, begin to work effectively only when heated to a certain temperature. There are special pads that are made of a softer material than conventional pads and do not require very high temperature regimes for correct work. It is important to compare the parameters of the product and your driving style before buying in order to find a compromise solution to the issue.
Brake Upgrade Options
After purchasing all the necessary units, it is necessary to proceed to replacing the standard brake products with tuning ones. And at this stage of work, problematic moments arise. Brake discs may not fit in the mounting holes or new calipers in the standard seats.
In order not to face such problems when installing parts, when choosing products, you can pay attention to special tuning kits that are now sold for most brands and models of cars.
With the installation of special kits, absolutely no questions arise, all standard fasteners completely coincide with the fasteners of the tuning parts. You can handle the replacement of parts yourself without the help of specialists. However, the kits generally have a brake disc of the same size as the standard one or slightly larger than the previous one. Previously, it was agreed that the diameter of the brake disc proportionally affects the braking distance of the vehicle. Retrofitting the brakes with tuning kits will greatly improve the brake performance. If you want to redesign and improve the brakes as much as possible, you can take advantage of more complex tuning options that require some rework.
The first method involves replacing standard disks for larger items. Accordingly, in order to install them on the car, it is necessary to drill additional holes in the hubs, which will coincide with the fasteners of the tuning parts. It may also require the manufacture of adapter plates to install the calipers over the larger discs. Mounting larger discs will entail purchasing larger and wider wheels.
The second tuning method is to replace the standard product with a ventilated disc or a disc with notches of the same size. In this case, you will not need to purchase a new set of tires for the vehicle. It is possible to increase the efficiency of the brakes by installing an additional caliper on each disc of the vehicle. In this case, it is important to make reliable fasteners for complementary calipers. This tuning increases the braking efficiency by about two times.
The choice of tuning method depends on your preferences and financial capabilities. The first method is more costly in terms of money, the second option will be more economical, however, it depends on the equipment of your workshop and your capabilities.
And one more important point... New car models are equipped from the factory with standard disc brakes on the front and rear wheels. If you have an old-style car, you will need to replace the rear drum brakes with modern disc brakes. In this case, serious alterations of the wheel hubs and fixtures for mounting the calipers will be required. If you have the technical ability, then you can redo the fasteners yourself, otherwise, in the absence necessary tools, it is better to seek help from professionals.
- Before starting work, remember that unsuccessful tuning of the body kits of the car or its interior will subsequently affect only its appearance... Poorly tuned braking systems can cost you your life.
- The braking system is directly responsible for the vehicle's safety on the road. Changes in the braking system of a vehicle are prohibited by law. Therefore, before tuning the brakes, think about how you will undergo regular technical inspections.
- Retrofitting the braking system is very expensive. Full tuning is required for racing and sports cars... For conventional vehicles, it is often enough to replace the brake elements with special tuning kits, which are easier to install and more efficient to use.
- If, nevertheless, you decide to upgrade, choose only products from well-known manufacturers that have passed certification.
conclusions
There are different ways to upgrade the vehicle's braking system. You can install special tuning brake kits or radically change the brake system by increasing the size of the discs. It all depends on your wishes and financial capabilities. The main thing is to be extremely attentive and careful, consult a specialist. The braking system of the car is the guarantee of your safety on the road.
