What is the service life of the timing belt. Replacing the timing belt - when should it be replaced? What else is changed with a timing belt

In this article, we'll talk: why do you need a car engine belt and how often it should be changed - replacement frequency for most cars. At the end of the article, we will receive a video tutorial on how to do it yourself using an example.

Why is it needed?

The timing belt (timing belt) provides a flexible connection between the camshaft and crankshaft, as well as opening and closing valves in sync with the action of the pistons. Its job is to turn the camshaft at exactly half the speed of the crankshaft.

Engine belt reliability is important where pistons and valves are in the same block. In them, pistons and valves share the same space, but thanks to the belt, they never meet each other. When it breaks, the piston strikes the open valve and bends it, resulting in expensive repairs. Note that this does not happen on all machines. Some manufacturers make special grooves in the pistons. If the motor belt breaks, the valves and pistons will not meet each other, i.e. no major repairs required.

Replacement frequency

On many modern cars when the timing belt breaks, the valve bends and it is not required cheap repair since most of the motor parts will need to be replaced. Therefore, keep an eye on the visual condition. This can be done by removing the cover that protects it or checking the condition through a special inspection window. How to do this can be found in the vehicle operating instructions.

The frequency of replacement depends on the specific car brand., which can be found in the technical documentation. Many craftsmen recommend changing the belt when the car runs 60-100,000 kilometers. If you do not know when the last time it changed or whether it changed, then you should carefully examine it for wear. If it is worn out, traces of wear in the form of micro-cracks on the case will be visible.

Manufacturers indicate the timing of replacing the timing belt with a mileage of over 150,000 kilometers. Dealers, on the other hand, demand a reduction in the period to 90 - 100,000 kilometers due to the harsh operating conditions. For example, AvtoVAZ officially requires changing the timing on Lada Vesta cars with a mileage of 180,000 km. But many motorists do in the range from 100 to 120,000 km of run. It turns out to be a reinsurance against premature breakage.

Do not think that if micro-cracks appear on the belt, it will break off immediately. This is not the case, inside it has a metal base, tk. consists of thin metal rods. This is done so that it can withstand shock loads repeatedly and work for a long time. It can weaken, which will negatively affect the dynamics of the car - - the engine will run noisier, start poorly. These are the first signs of wear.

Usually, auto manufacturers recommend changing the rollers, tensioners and the pump (water pump) together with the replacement of the timing belt. The labor intensity and cost of performing the work separately is quite high, besides, the wear of the parts is often not visible. Therefore, it is wiser to change everything at once, in addition, manufacturers produce special kits: belt + timing rollers.

Video. How to do it yourself

The cost of replacing the timing belt in an auto service will be from 2500 to 5000 rubles. The price depends on the type of engine. For an 8-valve engine it will be cheaper, for a 16-valve engine it will be more expensive. You should also "keep in mind" the cost of replacing the water pump. Note that for most foreign cars, it will be problematic to replace the timing belt on your own due to the need for a special tool. It is better to entrust the work to professionals.

For some vehicles, there are engine belts with a reinforced metal cord. They last 30 percent longer than usual. I also recommend replacing all the drive belts (generator, air conditioner) and the pump, whose service life is comparable to that of the timing belt.

The timing belt is one of the most frequently replaced parts in a car. Its task is to synchronize the crankshaft and camshaft, and the need for replacement is indicated in the operating manual of any modern car... The same applies to the timing videos. Their functions, location, as well as features of the replacement procedure are described in more detail later in the article.

How are the timing rollers arranged?

The rollers look like gears, thanks to which the timing belt itself moves. While the part itself is, of course, metal, the pulley on it can be either aluminum or steel, or plastic. The latter are cheaper, less noisy and lighter. Someone may question their safety margin, but high-quality plastic can work out during the service interval of belt replacement without difficulty.

Roller pulleys are available with different raceway options (running surfaces):

Smooth, without irregularities;
Corrugated, with shallow longitudinal grooves, due to which the contact area of the pulley with the belt is reduced;
Serrated with transverse teeth.

Smooth and grooved pulleys can be either plastic or metal, while toothed pulleys are only steel or aluminum.

Timing idler rollers perform the following functions:

Changing the course of the part, and turning to the required angle, by changing the location of the pulleys camshafts and attachments;
Damping and elimination of vibration that may occur on the branches of the belt, taking into account its considerable length;
Timing belt stabilization during engine operation. In particular, these parts prevent part slipping and resonance;
Reducing the noise level when the drive of the gas distribution mechanism is running.
Smooth and grooved types of rollers are positioned so that the belt wraps around them on the smooth side. Serrated - on the other, working side.

In timing belt drives, only one or two rollers are often present, while in more modern engines usually absent.

Important! These idler rollers are often confused with tensioners, the task of which is to ensure the tension of the timing belt. At the same time, they also perform the above functions of bypass rollers.

The answer to the question of whether it is necessary to change the rollers and the pump when replacing the timing belt is unequivocally positive. Determining the need for replacement is not difficult. The first sign is the increasing vibration of the engine during driving. When it occurs, the condition of both the timing belt and the bypass rollers is checked. If the first is partially out of place, and the second looks worn out, the details change.

Timing roller replacement process

So, to the question of whether it is necessary to change the rollers when replacing the timing belt, the answer is provided. Now you need to figure out how to carry out the replacement procedure.

First, preparations are made for the procedure. Bypass rollers, with a high degree of probability, need to be replaced, therefore, new ones must be purchased. This is done by official dealers the respective car manufacturer. Turning to private sellers for the purchase of new parts is not a good idea, due to the prevalence of low-quality fakes.

Having purchased the necessary parts, you can proceed to the procedure for replacing the rollers itself. For this, the protective cover is dismantled. Then the crankshaft is set to the top dead center of the first cylinder. This is done by using starting handle, or manually by rotating the crankshaft pulley. When the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys match, you can proceed to the replacement procedure.

First, the timing belt itself is removed. Then, using the key, the "obvodnik" is unscrewed. The dimensions of the part, depending on the model, body and engine features, may vary, so the key will have to be selected separately. As a rule, the idler rollers have a right-hand thread, which must be unscrewed counterclockwise.

A new one is installed in place of the removed part. The procedure is repeated for all idler rollers that need to be replaced.

Then the alternator pulley is removed. To remove it, you need a special tool, the so-called "pulley removal / installation device". You can find it at most parts stores, and sellers usually explain how to use it. When unscrewing the pulley, it must also be unscrewed counterclockwise, along the right thread. Then, in reverse order, install a new pulley on a new roller. This procedure is also repeated for all replaced parts, and finally a new timing belt is pulled over them.

The procedure takes an hour and a half.

Possible breakdowns and their causes

The most common timing belt failure is a broken timing belt. This happens for a variety of reasons, including the following:

Untimely replacement of a part. Most manufacturers recommend replacing the unit every 60-70 thousand kilometers, or even more often;
Incorrect operation. Here it is necessary to clarify. Accelerated wear of the timing belt is greatly facilitated by incorrect speed mode and active driving on rough terrain;
Hit engine oil or antifreeze on the part. In this case, the likelihood of it slipping off the rollers increases. At the same time, many drivers make the same mistake - they wipe off the oil from the belt and continue to use it. But the rubber of the part has already managed to absorb the liquid, and it cannot be removed;
Poor quality product. Above, the need to purchase timing belts only from authorized dealers was mentioned. They are more expensive, but there is a guarantee that a worn out or just a low-quality fake will not be sold;
Accelerated wear due to mechanical damage to the car (in other words, accidents).

In any case, the only way to fix it is to buy a new part and install it.

The same applies to videos. They are partially protected by the belt, but they are not protected from external damage, oil and increased friction. Using worn idler rollers is no better idea than riding with a worn timing belt.

In fact, any breakdown associated with idler rollers, pump or timing belt is repaired by replacing the damaged part with a new one. It is not recommended to repair, glue or cook them. The gas distribution mechanism has a significant load, and the repaired parts will not ensure reliable engine operation.

Basic procedure for repairing most timing parts, including belt, idlers and tensioners:

Place the machine on a lift, overpass or inspection pit.
Pull back the tensioner and remove the timing belt.
Remove the air filter housing.
Unscrew the roller and tensioner.
Dismantle the part to be repaired and install a new one.
Assemble the mechanism by performing the above steps in reverse order.

Do I have to change the rollers when changing the belt?

So, the answer to the question of whether it is necessary to change the timing belt when replacing the timing belt is usually in the affirmative. These parts have the same safety factor and wear out at the same time. Both idler rollers and tensioners play no less important role in the system than the belt, and their breakage leads to the same unpleasant consequences.

Drivers may wonder if there is a need to replace the timing belt pump? The procedure is often offered at service stations, and some suspicious car owners believe that this is just a "scam" for extra money. In practice, the safety margin of the pump is twice that of the belt. Therefore, it should be changed with every second replacement.

Timing belt replacement is carried out depending on the degree of wear this mechanism, the performance of the vehicle engine and the mileage of the vehicle. To carry out such a procedure on your own, you will need to have a minimum set of tools at hand and clearly follow the instructions.

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How many thousand kilometers do you need to change

For each car, the frequency of replacing the timing belt is different, which can be found in the technical documentation of the car. On average, they change the belt after running 50,000 km. If timing belts with a reinforced metal cord are used, then their service life is 30% longer than usual.

The mileage at which it is necessary to replace is presented in the table:

How to independently determine that it is time to change the belt?

When the timing of the last replacement of the timing belt is unknown, inspect this part for wear.

Signs indicating the need to replace the belt:

oil leak;
damaged surface of the consumable;
the presence of bulges and uneven wear;
worn teeth;
cracks along the entire length of the belt;
notches on the teeth after starting the motor.

Consequences of a broken timing belt

For gasoline engines the following consequences can occur after a belt break:

Failure of all elements of the motor.
The gas distribution mechanism may not even be suitable for repair. This can be caused by strong blow pistons, after which the timing head is deformed.
Damage to the cylinder block. Worn out piston rings harm the mirror surface of the combustion chamber.

V diesel engines a broken timing belt often leads to the following consequences:

damage to bearings camshaft;
deformation of piston connecting rods;
breakdown of the intake valves.

Channel "Program Car" removed the consequences of breaking the strap of the gas distribution mechanism.

When choosing a strap, consider the following guidelines:

Don't pay attention to cheap goods. When operating a low-quality or non-original part, engine repairs will cost several times more.
The belt must be elastic, and its surface must be smooth and free of rubber overlays.
Item number, number of teeth and length must match the old strap.

Better to give preference to such timing belt manufacturers: Contitech, Bosch, Dayco or Gates.

Replacing the timing belt

Replacing the timing belt includes several stages:

Selection of the necessary tools.
Preparatory work.
Removing the old belt.
Installing a new timing belt.

Selecting the tools you need

To carry out work on replacing the timing belt, you must have the following tools:

adjusting key for belt tension;
open-end wrenches;
set of hex bits;
car jack;
a spudger or large screwdriver.

Preparatory work

Before changing the timing belt, you must:

Place the vehicle on a level surface in a garage or overpass.
Turn on hand brake and put wheel chocks under the wheels.
Lock the gear lever in neutral position.
Disconnect the battery terminal.

Removing the old belt

Removal of the old timing belt is carried out according to the following algorithm:

To begin with, remove the protective cover of the belt drive using hex bits.
The power supply circuit is disconnected from the crankshaft sensor.
With an open-end wrench for 17, the generator pulley is removed.
By turning the camshaft, the position of the shafts is set according to the marks (marks are applied to the drive of the gas distribution mechanism, which must coincide with the pulleys).
Next, you need to loosen the tension roller with a special wrench and fix the flywheel with a powerful screwdriver or a mounting blade. The flywheel must also be aligned with the mark.
The belt is carefully removed and the tension roller is checked for suitability.

Installing a new timing belt

Do-it-yourself belt installation is done in the following order:

A new tensioner roller is installed.
A new belt is pulled onto the crankshaft and camshaft without knocking down the marks.
The belt is tensioned so that it can rotate no more than 90 degrees.
The timing drive is manually scrolled clockwise.
The labels are re-checked.
A screwdriver or blade is removed from the flywheel.
The timing case is being installed.
The terminals are connected to the battery.
The motor starts.

Is it necessary to change the pump when replacing the timing belt?

According to experts, it is not necessary to change the pump along with replacing the timing belt.

Its service life is 50% longer than that of the timing belt, so the pump changes in two cases:

with every second belt change;
when there is a suspicion of pump malfunction.

How much does a timing belt cost?

A comparative table of the cost of the timing consumable is presented in the table:

Video

The video from the Tekhno-056 channel shows in detail the replacement of the timing belt.

The main purpose of this part is to transfer torque from the camshaft to the car's crankshaft. It provides synchronized rotation, which is so important for the optimal performance of the entire valve train.

The serviceability and normal operation of the belt is very important for car engines, in which the pistons are located with the valves in the same block. Despite the fact that the valves are in the same place with the pistons, these parts do not occur precisely because of the timing belt. As soon as the belt breaks, it begins to beat against the open valve, gradually bending it, and also wedges the piston. If not replaced, the engine will require serious repair work.

Reasons for failure of the timing belt

Belt failure can be caused not only by wear. Quite often there are situations when a completely new belt wears out and breaks in a relatively short period of time. There may be several reasons for this.

In most cases, the reason for the rapid wear of the belt is the pump. It contains bearings and not in the center of the pulley, but slightly shifted to the side. It is their wear after a certain time that leads to a misalignment of the pump axis, which automatically causes the pulley to warp, and the subsequent slipping of the timing belt. Installation of a new pump may also be the reason. If the site was initially not well protected, if there are small residues of dirt or grease, this can lead to significant displacements.
Serious wear on the idler and idler pulley.
Leakage of engine oil from the camshaft oil seal.
Tooth wear caused by the crankshaft and camshaft gear. A symptom of this problem is the appearance of peeling teeth on the belt.

The most common cause of belt wear is over tightening or loosening. This happens very often after self replacement details. It is for this reason that it is so important to know not only how much to change the timing belt, but also how to do it correctly, if you do not plan to contact a car service.

Timing belt service life and frequency

Many drivers are interested in the timing of the timing belt replacement. This process directly depends on the wear of the part, on the operating time of the vehicle.

Each car has a mileage in the instructions, after which it is necessary to replace it. The frequency directly depends on the car brand. If it is a foreign car, 120 thousand km must pass before replacement, Russian cars have a mileage of 60 thousand.

When deciding when to change the timing belt, you should not wait for the full run, it is advisable to carry out this process, subtracting about 15% from the established norm. If the time of the last replacement is unknown, you need to check the part for wear from time to time.

Timing belt change procedure

Quite often you can find complete replacement kits that include a belt with rollers. The labor and time costs of replacing each part are about the same, but since it is not always possible to understand the level of wear of each, it is most reasonable to replace all at the same time.

Required tools for replacing the timing belt

Before replacing, be sure to prepare special tools. Among the most important of them are:

hexagon "five";
set of open-end wrenches;
balloon wrench;
special adjusting key for the tensioner roller;
jack;
a large screwdriver, a wiring harness will also work.

TO preparatory work can be attributed not only to the preparation of tools, but also certain manipulations with the car itself. The machine is placed on a flat surface and fixed with special stops under the wheels. Be sure to tighten the handbrake, raise the hood, disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and also remove the engine cover.

Let's take a look at the process itself, how the timing belt is replaced.

Removing the timing belt

Before installing a new belt, be sure to remove the worn one. For this, the following sequence of actions is performed:

The alternator belt is removed. In some situations, it is necessary to remove the V-ribbed belt to get to the timing belt. All nuts are loosened; if necessary, push the generator back to relieve tension and then remove the belt.
To gain access to the belt, such additional parts as the power steering pump, compressor, generator are removed. There is no need to remove the fittings under the compressor pressure. It is enough just to unscrew them and move them a little to the side, without affecting the pressure of the entire system.
If a distributor cap is present, it must be removed. For this purpose, you will need to open the clips and remove the mounting screws.
Aligning the main alignment marks. Using a socket or wrench for bolts crankshaft, the engine must be cranked until the pulley mark coincides with the zero mark. At this stage, you need to check that the distributor rotor coincides with the pointer on the distributor body. This is a kind of message that the rotor is ready to ignite the cylinder. If there is no such match, you will need to perform another full turn.
It is important to check if the vibration damper pulley needs to be removed, which may be necessary to remove the drive belt cover. Very often, the cover overlaps some part of the crankshaft, and the pulley does not allow it to be removed. When reassembling, some additional seal will need to be returned.
The bolts and screws that hold the timing belt cover are unscrewed and removed from the engine. All components and belts are removed here. auxiliary units which could prevent the cover from being removed. The list of such components directly depends on the vehicle model, therefore, in this case, it is worth using a special service manual.
The accuracy of alignment of the timing marks of the camshaft and crankshaft is checked. Most engines have a special dotted line on the pulleys. It must be aligned with the special marks on the block or on the cylinder head. If the old belt has been torn, the labels should be considered more carefully, relying on the official car manual.
The worn belt is being removed.

When completing the removal process, it is worth carefully examining the area for traces of oil leakage. It is required to inspect the areas near the crankshaft and camshaft seals, as well as the pan and valve cover.

Any leaks found must be eliminated before installing a new part.

It is equally important to loosen the main tensioner before installing a new belt. Here it is enough just to loosen the fastening bolts a little, you do not need to remove them completely. After weakening, the resulting state must be fixed in a weakened position.

The tensioner itself should be checked for dents or cracks. It is very important to crank it and listen for any rumble or crackling sound that could indicate loose and worn bearings. If there are signs of bearing damage or wear, the tensioner pulley will need to be replaced. This is a fairly common operation as the pulley can dry out, loosen, crack, wear out and harden.

Installing the timing belt

In the process of installing a new timing belt, it must be unpacked, removed from the sprockets. If the belt has been used for a very long time, it may become stuck in the grooves of the pulley. In this case, you will need to pry it off with a screwdriver.

The new belt is tensioned in full accordance with the instructions and the specifics of each car separately. Particular attention is paid to the information in the manual regarding tightening. The crankshaft pulley fixing bolt must have a high standard tightening torque.

If in vehicle There is a hydraulic tensioner, disassembly may be required to insert the piston back into the cylinder. Insert the new strap into the clamping device and squeeze until all holes are aligned and the retaining bar can be inserted. After inserting the rod, you can re-install the car tensioner.

Marking and Tension Adjustment

Simultaneously with the new belt, the crankshaft is installed on the pulley, camshaft gears, as well as pumps. Everything is securely fixed, and the belt itself is tensioned by rotating it clockwise. It is easy to check the belt tension level by hand. You just have to try to twist it with your fingers. If the belt is well tensioned, it will turn no more than 90 degrees.

After that, all fixing and turning tools are removed. The crankshaft makes two turns.

All marks on the gears are carefully checked. Once everything is installed accurately and correctly, you can proceed with the installation of all the remaining elements. On this, the solution to the question of how to change the timing belt can be considered complete.

Features of the installation of a belt for 16-valve engines

Separately, it is worth studying the issue of how to replace the timing belt for sixteen valve motors... Carrying out work on measuring the belt on a 16-valve engine differs in that it is imperative to use two special locking devices. They can be purchased at an auto tool store or made by hand.

The main difficulty in replacing the timing belt on such twin-shaft propulsion systems is to tie the camshafts and crankshaft in a certain position. For this, clamps are needed.

Replacing without using these devices will be quite risky. In the event of an incorrect assembly, a large number of parts will have to be changed, which will cost a significant amount.

Timing belt selection

The timing belt plays a very important role in the process of work, it is constantly subjected to dynamic loads. For this reason, special attention is paid to the quality of this component. To get a strong and reliable belt, you should pay attention to the manufacturer. Among the most basic brands to be preferred are the following:

Contitech;
Gates;
Dayco;
Bosch.

You need to purchase belts only from trusted suppliers, this will help protect against counterfeiting.

After finishing work related to replacing the timing belt, you need to start the engine and listen to how it works. If the device is properly tensioned, no extraneous sounds will not appear, if the belt is slightly over-tightened, you can hear the hum or whistle of the tension roller. In this case, the belt will have to be loosened slightly by turning it counterclockwise. If you carry out the replacement work competently and carefully enough, you will not have to face the question of how often to change the timing belt.

When replacing the timing belt, it is recommended to change a number of additional elements. Newbies often wonder which ones. The article contains all the details that, for one reason or another, need to be changed simultaneously with timing belt to avoid further problems.

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Necessarily, experts recommend changing all other auxiliary belts, as it is logically justified. In other words, it must be remembered that the service life of the belts is almost the same, and if you had to replace the timing belt, most likely you will have to do this for the alternator belt, etc.

Replacement of the seal is required. It acts as a protection against leakage of grease from the valve cover. And if oil gets on the belt, no matter how new it is, soon it will end again. So that replacing the timing belt does not become a waste of money, you need to take care of this type of gasket.

Oil seals change for the same reason. They are entrusted with the mission of keeping the lubricant in the camshafts and crankshafts.

The crankshaft pulley is fixed with a bolt, which also falls into the risk zone. It is considered disposable because it has a large tightening torque.

The roller tensioner is also changed at the same time as the belt. This element performs an important function, keeping the belt in a strictly defined tensioned position. If it fails, then it is already functioning incorrectly, the belt becomes crooked and quickly breaks.

The CO pump or just a pump is also considered an element from the risk zone, which are replaced with the simultaneous replacement of the timing belt. Leaking coolant will quickly damage the belt.

Belts

ICE belts are simple and effective means to transfer rotary motion to auxiliary elements of the car. Some belts drive several units, others only one. The generator, coolant pump, camshaft, fans and other mechanisms are driven by simple rubber components.

Due to the fact that a special load is imposed on the belts, they have to be regularly checked for external condition and tension. It is necessary to replace the belts of auxiliary mechanisms at the same time as the timing belt due to the protection of the engine from damage.

Belts are usually classified according to their type. In modern automotive industry, wide / normal drive belts and fan belts are distinguished.

Note. You should be aware that each of the belts is selected individually, depending on a specific automotive unit.

To protect the belts from wear and tear, in some cases they are wrapped in cotton or nylon. Thus, the side part of the belt is protected from wear, and the whole structure becomes more integral.

Toothed belts transmit forces using cross-notches and a drive. Thanks to their successful design, it is possible to maintain the specified parameters of the location of the shafts. Belts generally do not require lubrication, practically do not stretch or vibrate.

The further the technologies in the automotive industry are improved, the faster the belt design is modernized. So, recently, multi-strand auto belts have become popular, consisting of several branches connected to each other. They are much easier than usual to cope with a powerful generator, air conditioning and other mechanisms.

Note. The versatility and advantage of the multi-ribbed belt is that its design allows you to evenly distribute the load between the branches, and the products always have an increased service life. The function of such a belt is to set in motion not one but several mechanisms. For example, a generator, air conditioning and power steering.

To ensure an exact match of the speeds of rotation of the internal combustion engines, are used V-belts... There are 2-sided V-belts with enviable characteristics. V-ribbed belts are capable of transmitting high power. They have notched teeth in the lower base, and they are flat in the upper part.

Each product, regardless of its purpose, undergoes a multi-stage quality control. Without this, the belt cannot be considered fit for work.

Unfortunately, the general financial crisis, the economic collapse of some states and the decline in the role of the international GOST in general, gave rise to many fakes. The motorist buys a belt that is inexpensive, but it does not last long. As a result, you have to buy a new one, and so on in a circle. If you don't stop on time buying fake goods, you can exhaust your budget in a short period of time.

Experienced motorists understand this perfectly, they always try to buy original part, even if it is a consumable. It is better to spend twice as much on one belt, but it will last much longer than fakes.

The timing belt is an important and responsible component of the internal combustion engine. They are equipped with not only gasoline, but also diesel units. Thanks to the timing belt, synchronous and timely opening of the intake / exhaust valves is ensured, the rotational movement of the shafts is transmitted.

On diesel unit the timing belt is also responsible for transmitting the movement of the injection pump to the fuel pump.

The timing belt is a multi-layer, serrated product made of synthetic materials. Its design was originally designed to work in difficult conditions.

Note. For example, the temperature under the casing-protection of the GDS mechanism in the summer can reach plus 100 degrees Celsius, and in the winter - the rubber product must function at deep subzero temperatures. All this negatively affects the properties of the belt material.

High-quality original timing belts are able to withstand a bend of 10 mm to a blank after cooling to minus 45 degrees and do not break after many hours of work at a temperature of plus 120 degrees Celsius.

pad

A high-quality KK gasket is not only a belt protection, but also a guarantee of cleanliness under the hood of a car. Some consider the gasket to be an insignificant element that cannot seriously affect the performance of the motor, but this is only partly true. As it was written above, a faulty gasket is the transmission of an oil liquid, which inevitably leads to the failure of various elements, especially belts, negatively affects the dynamics of the power unit - the oil comes out.

A dry and clean engine is always good, it testifies to the care of a 4-wheel friend, speaks of the normal condition of all cuffs and seals.

After opening the bonnet, the first thing that catches your eye is the valve cover. The latter closes the GDS mechanism, is equipped with a neck for pouring lubricant into the motor.

The cover is fixed to the head itself with bolts or nuts, and a gasket must be present between them.

Note. The gasket is made of a special rubber compound capable of retaining properties when exposed to various temperatures. Also, rubber must be of such a property that it can withstand constant contact with oil.

Over time, under regular interaction with the above phenomena, the gasket will inevitably become unusable. It loses its elasticity, becomes hard, small cracks appear on it, through which oil can seep.

Note. You should be aware that even a minor leak can lead to the outside of the motor covering with a layer of oil and dirt.

Replacing the gasket, as described above, is carried out simultaneously with the replacement of the timing belt. In addition, this replacement is carried out if the driver notices that the seal is missing. And in this case, the caring owner will also change the timing belt, since there is a possibility that oil has got on him. It turns out that both elements - the timing belt and the gasket - must be replaced at the same time.

The gasket can be easily changed by yourself if you have a set of simple tools. It is also necessary to buy a good and high temperature sealant and any degreaser.

Removing the gasket does not bode well:

First, the VZDH building is dismantled.
Locking bolts are unscrewed along the entire perimeter.
Is being filmed attachments(if the lid is weighed down with additional devices).
The old gasket is dismantled and discarded.
The place where the new pad will sit must be carefully processed and cleaned.
The gasket must be put in place on the sealant.

When replacing the gasket, errors may occur that you need to be aware of:

The owner bought a low-quality seal, as a result of which the lubricant flow not only did not stop, but even intensified.
The sealant was unevenly applied or the compound itself was old.
The cover bolts are not tightened evenly, so the cover is skewed.

They are the seals with which the camshafts and crankshafts are equipped. They are also called cuffs, they qualitatively seal the shafts relative to the stationary body.

Every motorist with experience knows that oil leaks are always due to the fault of the oil seals, but there are a lot of them in the car. Shaft oil seal, like a conventional seal, allows you to achieve the required tightness, prevents leakage of the working fluid.

Replacing shaft seals is not a very simple procedure. It will require not only specific knowledge, but also special tools with which pressing is carried out.

The complexity of replacement is also due to the fact that it is necessary to remove a large number of various parts that can easily deteriorate if not a specialist works.

The rear crankshaft oil seal is replaced, for example, much easier than the front. Firstly, the rear seal is larger than the front seal, which gives the advantage that it is easier to work with. Secondly, in order to remove the front oil seal, many large assemblies must be dismantled, including the block, box, etc.

On some cars with a gear drive of the GRS mechanism, oil seals are available not only on the main shafts, but also on the oil pump.

The most unreliable of all seals is the camshaft oil seal. The most durable is the rear crankshaft seal.

If you have to change the seal to a new one, then it is recommended to check the oil seals with your own hands before buying. After bending the working edge of the seal, no irregularities, looseness and other similar properties should be noticed. A good gland should also have a sharp edge.

It is better not to buy seals made "on the side" initially. They do not deserve trust, no matter how the price entices them. As a rule, all "left" seals are not of ideal shape, since it is difficult to obtain acceptable quality when using handicraft equipment. And the quality of rubber cannot be High Quality- "Left" firms are able to compete with the real ones only by their only advantage - low price, and in this situation it turns out to be expensive to buy expensive rubber.

As soon as the seals begin to leak, it is not worth delaying their replacement.

The crankshaft pulley is a detail that does not immediately catch the eye, it seems insignificant for the vehicle's performance. In fact, this is not the case.

In this case, we are interested in the pulley bolt. As you know, as a result of a poorly tightened retaining bolt, the timing belt drive gear wears out, and the crankshaft itself becomes unusable from this.

To find out how a bolt is removed, you need to determine the type of thread on a particular pulley. The retainer bolt or nut that tightens the pulley is very tight. The bolt is tightened clockwise, and the crankshaft also rotates during movement, which leads to even greater tightening. Adding corrosive processes, oxidation and other influences to this, you get the usual picture - a complex bolt that cannot be removed.

In fact, knowing the effective removal techniques, you can complete the operation in just 10 minutes.

Raise the car to the pit.
Stop the wheels.
Place an extension wrench over the head of the bolt or nut.
In the course of rotation, rest the key on the floor.
Switch on the ignition for a short period (the force of the starter will be sufficient to break the bolt).
Further, the bolt is turned out manually. It is possible to process the joints of HP parts to facilitate the process.

Attention. When removing the bolt, in case of an unexpected start of the power unit, the armored wire is thrown off the distributor.

Roller tensioner

This video has a very important function. If it becomes unusable, then on XX it twitches and does not inspire confidence. To eliminate the likelihood of its wear, it is recommended to change the tensioner roller at the same time as the alternator belt.

Replacing the video is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

After removing the timing belt, it is necessary to dismantle the VF body, which sits on 2 nuts.
Then the bracket fixing the power steering reservoir is removed.
The power steering reservoir is removed from the bracket by an upward movement.
Now you can unscrew the roller using a 15 wrench.
The very design of the tensioner will have to be removed with a 12 key with an extension cord.

Tensioning pulleys provide tension to the timing belt by operating on the pressure of the oil in the system. For the normal functioning of the entire GRS mechanism, optimal belt tension is required. The video is responsible for this.

If the roller tensioner is defective, the tight fit of the toothed belt on the shaft pulleys is not ensured, the element is no longer protected from slipping, and at one point it can jump off, as a result of which the engine will be in great danger.

The roller tensioner is simple in design. Its main part is a roller made of 2 halves. Flanges are also required on them to prevent the belt from slipping.

The installation of the roller is carried out on the front of the engine block. Here it is attached with 2 bolts. A spring of a cylindrical type is also installed, fixed between the stops of the block and the roller bracket. Thanks to this spring, a constant tension of the belt is ensured, its slippage is excluded.

Some powertrains use not one, but two tensioner rollers. One is in the timing drive and the other is in the shaft drive. The rollers are not alike, differ in design and shape. This should be taken into account when choosing and buying a new video.

The tensioner pulley, like the belt, has a limited resource. In the process of replacing the belt, a similar procedure should be carried out with the roller. Some manufacturers recommend not always the same service life of parts. 60 thousand kilometers is an average value, after which both elements need to be changed.

water pump

Any circulation of fluid in the machine is a forced action. The pump serves to ensure the operation of individual systems of the car - fuel and cooling systems. Both pumps differ structurally and have their own operating characteristics.

So, one of the pumps pumps coolant, the other - fuel. We are most interested in the first option, since it is his malfunction that threatens the timing belt most of all.

Water pump - this is the name of this coolant pump. It is located directly on the cylinder head. Structurally, it is a housing with an impeller placed on the shaft. The latter has bearings at each end. The shaft rotates through the belt, transmitting the movement from the internal combustion engine.

In case of pump malfunction power unit overheats, and then fails.

There are several clear signs of pump failure:

If the readings of the coolant temperature sensor are in the red zone.
The smell of coolant can be discerned in the passenger compartment.
Extraneous noises are heard, indicating the need for replacement.
Coolant traces under the car.

Of course, in some cases it is possible partial renovation pumps. If, for example, replace the shaft of this device together with the bearings. However, it is more advisable to purchase a new pump.

The units presented above do not always change with the timing belt, with the exception of the tensioner roller and the KK gasket. The pump, additional belts and bolt are changed after a qualified inspection.