We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...
A year has passed since I drove out of the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not make now an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - all-terrain vehicle; such an international designation was received by such machines).
Fortunately, at this time, a buyer turned up on a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.
A year of labor for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connection lighting equipment, installation of an ignition lock, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).
1 - front wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20 liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - muffler;
11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear fixing lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the Oka car);
18 - front trunk
The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it is not. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reduction gears - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);
5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from the VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
There are no undershifts and differential locks.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type(with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in the shape of the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);
5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);
12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);
20 - cross member of the footboard (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - an eyelet for attaching a fiberglass body kit (s5 sheet, set)
Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from a VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specially, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the car "Zhiguli")
First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tack". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but the expanded polystyrene turned out to be more suitable material- well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill in layers polyurethane foam designated place for him. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.
Under the dashboard part went into action dashboard Oki. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit according to the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to ideal condition, then plastering and painting the boob could be neglected.
So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as is known, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process of work.
I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
Diluted resin in 200 - 300 grams with hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "wrapping" the desired shape.
First, he smeared thickly with epoxy resin one area of the boob, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.
After obkpeyki boob with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin is used to impregnate a stekomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stekpomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak out. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, it was necessary after a 24-hour break to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.
Trunks:
a - front; b - back
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the firm.
After the glued body kit was completely dry, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and a rear, a false tank with a sub-seat, front fenders and a front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking around, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.
Now, having removed the parts, he began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "entire" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and coating with varnish with a plasticizer.
The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.
ATV basic data:
Weight, kg ………………………………………… 430
Length, mm ……………………………………… 2300
Width, mm
(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ……… 1250
Height, mm:
on the steering wheel ……………………………………… .1250
on the saddle ……………………………………… ..900
Ground clearance, mm …………………… .300
Base, mm ………………………………………… 1430
Track, mm ……………………………………… 1045
Maximum speed, km / h …………… .65
S. Pletnev, Ocher, Perm Territory
How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The effort and time spent pays off not only with great savings, but also with the result obtained - an exclusive, author's quadric model, which no one else has.
The features of the assembly of a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by a skilled craftsman.
6 best options the basics ("donor") for the aspirant, how to make an ATV.
- Motorcycle "Ural".
- Motorcycle "Izh".
- Motor scooter "Ant".
- Another motor scooter (scooter).
- Niva car.
- Oka car.
Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.
In addition to parts (components) for a quadric, its creator will need:
- assembly "workshop" - a fairly spacious garage equipped with good heating and lighting is useful in this capacity;
- a set of equipment and tools;
- blueprints.
You may also be interested in the article of our specialist, which tells how to do it.
Preparation for work, tools and equipment
First of all, you need to carefully weigh when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, etc. It is on this basis that the choice of a "donor" vehicle must be made, having determined how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.
Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and ready to remake at your own discretion.
List of required tools:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- a set of keys;
- various small tools - vernier calipers, hammer, knife, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
For self-made the frame will also need pipe bending equipment. In the absence, you can rent it or give it away necessary work“Outsource” to another craftsman. Only if you have remarkable skill can you bend the pipes by hand, heating the bend with a gas cutter or burner.
Quadric components:
- engine;
- frame;
- rear and front suspension;
- steering;
- brake system;
- cooling system;
- muffler;
- electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
- body, body kit.
The muffler can be made by yourself. Everything else is to be purchased on the shadow market for used parts.
Parts selection
ATV frame
Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame either has to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a ready-made, used one.
The most important thing is that the engine is bolted securely to the bottom along the frame, which can be positioned both front and rear. Also firmly, in order to avoid backlash, should be attached to the frame transmission and drive.
As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of no more than 3 mm:
- for side members - 25 mm;
- for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.
The pipes are connected using spot welding, then one-piece welding is carried out. The lugs for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - during the installation of units and assemblies.
Reconstruction of the existing frame
To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the rear and build up the front. Then weld the fastening elements complete set knots and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seat posts should be moved 40 - 45 cm.
The front and rear racks are cut from sheet metal and welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, no need to varnish.
Engine
The engine will fit from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefties" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, since newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which in heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".
The engine from the scooter compares favorably with low fuel consumption, besides, the quadric based on the scooter is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric for the transportation of goods and / or off-road driving needs a more powerful engine.
The power of the Izh-1, Izh-2 and Izh Jupiter engines - 24 hp, the old Ural - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old Oka - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.
The ATV needs a cooled engine to ride in hot weather. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will do, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.
The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.
2 rear suspension options:
- The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quad. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will be heavier.
- Cardan-gear design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.
Please note: for an ATV, an independent suspension with high ground clearance is required.
The suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.
The front suspension strut must be tilted or the ATV may tip over.
Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil with pumping, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.
Steering and chassis
The steering system of an ATV can be both on the basis of an automobile - with a steering wheel, and with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle handlebars, lever and shaft at the top, car steering rods at the bottom. It is advisable to immediately take the fuel tank along with the steering wheel of the motorcycle.
A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A travel stop must be placed below.
When making a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace the gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.
The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.
Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs ("Oki" or "Niva") and are shod with rubber that meets the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). Brake system selected depending on the wheels. The steering knuckles are also from Niva or Oka.
Four-wheel drive
If you prefer transport with four-wheel drive, steering from a car, differentials and a manual transmission drive are required.
The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded for the engine size.
Pendants like steering system, you need to take from the car. At the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.
Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special skills of the craftsman, but also additional labor costs. Alternative option- to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - it costs money.
Frame
Manufacturing the case is far from the easiest stage in history, under the title: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.
First, you need to draw, cut and build a "blank" of the case from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with polyurethane foam. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, coating each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the case to the frame. In conclusion, dry the case thoroughly, then prime, grind and paint.
Unfortunately, not every person has the opportunity to purchase an ATV in the store. All more or less interesting models are now quite expensive, and buying a supported ATV is always a certain risk. In this regard, many motorists are advised to make a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with their own hands, using an engine and spare parts from some old Soviet motorcycle. Earlier, we have already told you about how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle. In today's article, we will talk about other donors that you can use if you decide to assemble an ATV with your own hands.
Why is it worth assembling an ATV with your own hands?
Assembling a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands definitely helps to solve several problems. The first reason people decide to make a homemade ATV is of course a small budget. If you analyze the market prices for ATVs, then you can understand that such vehicles can be considered almost a luxury. Prices for the simplest and low-power models start at 150 thousand rubles, for example, the Yamaha Blaster YFS200. In principle, such a single "quadric" will be enough, but the power will always be in short supply.
But models of ATVs with engines with a volume of 500-800 cm 3 will cost much more, about 500 thousand rubles. You can also consider Chinese models, such as the Russian manufacturer Stels, but they will have to be well monitored. New all-terrain vehicles of this brand will cost about 300-400 thousand rubles, but the engines are already much more interesting - 45-70 hp.
Nuances in the operation of a homemade "quadric"
If you definitely decided to make an ATV with your own hands, then you should know about the intricacies of its operation. In principle, if you need an all-terrain vehicle to ride in impassable places where there have never been patrol cars, then there is probably nothing to worry about. You will have to face problems if you plan to drive even in small settlements, which are sometimes visited by patrol cars. Catching you without documents for this vehicle, then with a probability of 99% it will be taken away from you. The whole difficulty lies in registering a homemade ATV, because the traffic police will most likely refuse you. In an amicable way, you can register a homemade product, but it is extremely difficult to do this. Therefore, assembling a homemade ATV only makes sense if you operate it in some wilderness.
Decide on the choice
So how to make a do-it-yourself ATV? When creating a homemade ATV, we need to decide on a donor, that is, a motorcycle that will form the basis of our project. Old Soviet motorcycles are perfect for a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle. From them we can borrow an engine with a gearbox, a frame, a steering wheel and, if desired, such details as a tank, a seat and other elements. Since we already had an article about a homemade ATV from the Ural motorcycle, in this review we will talk about how to make an ATV based on the IZH motorcycle.
For our purpose, almost all motorcycle models from the Izhevsk plant are suitable for us. The only thing that is important to understand is the engine power. Still, the end result will be a rather heavy structure, so the best solution would be to use the latest models - IZH Jupiter 5 or IZH Planet 5. It makes no sense to consider more interesting models, like IZH Planet Sport, because it is quite difficult to find them, and if possible , it is better to restore them, because the motorcycle is quite rare and interesting. Let's move on to the main thing, how to make an ATV and what is needed for this.
Rear suspension
Once you have decided on a donor, in our case it is IZH Jupiter 5, you need to completely disassemble the motorcycle. After disassembling, we need a frame on which everything was held, including the engine. It is quite logical that in order to increase the reliability of the structure, the frame must be strengthened in several places.
Now it is necessary to weld the rear axle so that instead of a wheel, a bearing block with a chain drive can stand on the axle. An example, you can see in the photo. As a suspension, you can use ordinary shock absorbers from a motorcycle, and parts from an old Zhiguli car are suitable for the rear axle. You can go a more complicated way and install a monoshock, but then again you will have to look for spare parts from the car, for example, from the same Zhiguli or Oka.
Front suspension
Once the rear suspension is complete and in place, you can move on to the front of the bike, which is a little more complicated. In the case when we dealt with rear suspension We had the opportunity to choose how much the shock absorber will be installed. When creating the front suspension, we only have one option - to use two shock absorbers.
Oka's car is perfect for the role of a donor for the front of the ATV. From it we need shock absorbers, swivel assemblies and a steering linkage. However, be prepared for the fact that the parts will still have to be changed - to weld on, saw off, saw off something. Also not bad and more simple option, there will be a monoblock installation with fixed wheel planes. Then you do not have to look for a steering linkage, couplings, hinges and other spare parts.
A monoblock is a really simple option, because it literally takes an hour to install. The only drawback of this design of the front suspension is the heavier mechanism. Turning the steering wheel will be slightly more difficult than with a suspension with shock absorbers.
Engine
Many wondering how to make an ATV with their own hands, understand that it is worth starting with the engine. Indeed, the main detail in the future ATV is the engine. How powerful it will be depends final result, and in general the whole structure. Of course, you can leave the engine from the donor's motorcycle, but in the end, the "quad" will not be as powerful. If you are a little more serious about creating an all-terrain vehicle, then installing a more powerful engine will be an excellent solution. We hope we have answered your question on how to make an ATV yourself.
Quite a lot of hunters, fishermen, and just lovers of outdoor activities dream of their ATV. But the prices even for used equipment are too expensive for most, not to mention new equipment. You should not despair, because today we will learn how to make an ATV with our own hands! This is an excellent transport for household needs, for transporting trailers, with high cross-country ability due to a short wheelbase, as well as easy to operate. But right away we want to say that it will take a lot of time to make a homemade ATV. As practice shows, a project can take from 6 to 12 months on average.
Preparatory stage
So let's get started. Prepare tools and equipment first. It will take a lot of welding work, for which manual arc welding is quite suitable. Choose electrodes for welding critical and vibration-loaded structures, which will be the ATV frame. By the way, this very frame can be cooked with your own hands from ordinary water pipes. These are easy to find at the nearest scrap metal reception, or metal warehouse. Choose a pipe diameter from 25 to 32mm, and the wall thickness should be around 3mm. To bend such pipes, it is desirable to have a pipe bender, but if it is not there, then you can also manually bend the pipes for the frame frame using a lever, heating the desired bend with a gas burner, or better with a gas-oxygen cutter.
Selection of main parts
The next step will be the selection of the necessary parts in the first place, namely:
- engine
- wheels
- shock absorbers
- rear axle
If you want to build a simple lightweight quadric with a drive only to the rear axle, then it is preferable to choose an engine from a motorcycle of an average cubic capacity, from 250 cubic meters and above. Depending on the construction budget, this can be almost any motor from a Soviet motorcycle, preferably with a chain drive, due to which it will be quite easy to make a rear axle drive. The axle can be made from a structural steel tube. In the center, weld the flanges for attaching the driven star and disc brake, and on the sides, install wheel bearings from the car, having previously pressed them into the housings made in advance.
The housings are used to fasten the axle assembly to the pendulum. The swingarm can be left as standard by further strengthening it and making a new mount for the disc brake caliper. Also, do not forget to make the brake hose mounts along the swingarm.
Our next task is the choice of wheels. AND ideal option not only in terms of accessibility, but also in terms of size, there will be wheels from the Oka. The main feature is that such stamped discs are very light, they will perfectly fit into the proportions of a home-made ATV, and most importantly, rubber from factory ATVs is perfect for them, which will significantly improve cross-country ability. How it looks can be seen below:
Donor selection for a new frame
How to make an ATV even easier to manufacture? You can simply use a donor frame, for example, from the Ural motorcycle by welding the rear axle to the standard swingarm and just slightly change the front suspension! The thick frame of the Urals is made of good steel and has an excellent margin of safety. And an engine with a high torque is very suitable for such a purpose. As for the gearbox, it is better to use it from the Dnepr motorcycle. It is designed for good loads, it is distinguished by clear gear changes, and the most important thing is the presence of a reverse speed, which is an indispensable function of a full-fledged ATV. Photo example of a homemade ATV from the Urals below:
Steering
Do-it-yourself ATV assembly is not an easy task. And, perhaps, the most difficult thing is to do the steering. To do this, first weld the frame of the front of the ATV, then you will need steering knuckles from the car, for example, from the Niva, but any others will do. Then you need to build the suspension arms. Pay special attention to the design of the attachment of the levers, since in their conjunction with the frame there are heavy loads, so additional stiffeners will not be superfluous. Levers are usually bolted through silent blocks. This is a rubber-to-metal hinge that is an indispensable link in the suspension. It dampens wheel vibrations, preventing vibration from being transmitted to the frame. Levers can be made according to these drawings.
Move on. What is the front suspension without shock absorbers? Here you can apply 4 motorcycle shock absorbers, one for each arm at the front, and two for the swingarm to shock the rear axle. Fit rear shock absorbers from Izh, but if you are ready to fork out for gas-oil with pumping, then this will give you the opportunity to adjust the suspension under road conditions, which is very handy for such equipment as an ATV!
Four-wheel drive and car engine
And how to create an ATV with a drive on all 4 wheels yourself, you ask? Above, we have considered the simplest option. But an option is possible not only with a motorcycle engine, but also with a car engine! And then we will tell you how to make an ATV with an Oka engine. In case of four-wheel drive ATV with a car engine, things are much more serious. Here it is no longer possible to use a motorcycle frame as a basis, it will have to be welded completely from scratch under car engine... By the way, it can be not only from Oka, but also any other, depending on your desires and capabilities. Don't forget about the liquid cooling system right away. Calculate the frame design so that the radiator and fan are located in a protected area from forest branches. The engine with the gearbox should be mounted along the frame so that the drive shaft from the gearbox is directly directed to the rear axle. To distribute the rotation of the wheels to each wheel, you will need 2 identical axles, for example, from the Zhiguli. But for installation you have to shorten them. To increase the cross-country ability, if desired, you can make a reduction chain reducer, combining with a standard gearbox. In this case, the driving gear should be slightly smaller than the driven one. By simple calculations of the ratio of the diameters of these gears, you can find out how much will decrease maximum speed and the thrust will increase. If the ATV is not planned to be used for driving on public roads, then this will be a very significant technical solution.
Increased functionality
Now that the frame and chassis the ATV will be assembled, the engine installed, you need to think about the secondary structures, thanks to which it will be practical to use the technique. Fuel tank fits well from the Ural motorcycle. Its impressive capacity will be enough even for a car engine. An important modification will be the snorkel installation. Since the engine is located quite low in the frame, then air filter accordingly draws in air from below. To prevent water from getting into it when overcoming the fords, it is highly recommended to do this. Completely need to be redone and exhaust system, with the exhaust gas outlet at a fairly high level so that water does not get inside either. Also, for an ATV you need a large wide seat, moving the body weight, it will be possible to achieve better control while driving. Aluminum sheet metal can be used for underbody protection to protect the front suspension arms and engine. A winch installed in the front will not be superfluous in the forest. Fog lights can be used to illuminate the road.
Work on the appearance
In conclusion, to bring the ATV into a proper appearance, similar to the real one you need a case. To do this, you will need ED-20 epoxy and fiberglass. These components can be purchased at a hardware store or hardware store.
To give this shape, first you need to cut out a blank from dense foam, which is also sold in large hardware stores in the form of 1 m2 plates, which is very convenient for creating such projects. Then fiberglass is applied in several layers, while each layer is coated with resin. The more layers, the stronger the case. Do not forget about the metal fasteners, which must be inserted between the layers, in the future for which the body will be attached to the ATV frame. After drying, it can be primed, sanded and painted. This fiberglass body is lightweight and very durable.
With a serious approach to business, such an ATV will be little inferior to the factory one, and in terms of assembly costs, it turns out to be many times cheaper. Despite the fact that you can assemble such a thing for yourself and get a lot of driving pleasure.
We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...
A year of labor for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other trifles.
Do-it-yourself ATV from oki
The power unit for my home-made ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).
ATV transmission- kind. Although the car is all-wheel drive, there is no transfer case in it. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and the gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission has been assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel reducers- from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from the front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.
There are no undershifts and differential locks.
Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of 8 mm thick steel sheet in the shape of the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
ATV Wheels- 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.
Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(Back). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.
The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
DIY ATV body kit
ATV body kit do it yourself - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore I first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tack". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with expanded polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.
Diy ATV drawings
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Diy ATV frame drawings
The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam was completely dry, he began to deduce the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse sandpaper.
A part of the “Oka” dashboard was used under the dashboard. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit from the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.
So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.
I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
Diluted resin in 200 - 300 grams with hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "wrapping" the desired shape.
First, he smeared thickly with epoxy resin one area of the boob, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.
After pasting the dummy with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin for impregnation of glass mat takes a lot, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, I glued the uneven surfaces in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little, so that the resin would not leak out. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, it was necessary after a 24-hour break to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the firm.
After the glued body kit was completely dry, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and a rear, a false tank with a sub-seat, front fenders and a front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking around, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.
Now, having removed the parts, he began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "entire" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and coating with varnish with a plasticizer.
The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.
DIY ATV video
