I made an air intake for the stove from the passenger compartment (with the air intake closed by the staff). To do this, I cut a "pocket" into the air intake shaft under the dashboard. Now, when you close your own "hailo", the air enters the stove from under the dashboard. But here's the problem - the side windows instantly freeze (even while standing, even in motion). If you open your own air intake, the glass is thawed. Maybe someone knows what the matter is, or knows another way of organizing the supply of air from the cabin?
Well, this is not only a problem on the UAZ, but in general on any car. It's just that the air that you are trying to drive in a circle (from salon to salon) has a lot of humidity, and since you also breathe :-), the humidity is constantly growing. Well Duc and they will fog up :-( In theory, it is necessary to dry the air taken from the passenger compartment in some way (a filter or something like that). But how to do it easier - the devil only knows.
In fact, a good scheme in this respect was at 452 (for some reason the plant has now abandoned it). Air could be taken in both from the outside and from the inside, and it was also possible to let air past the stove. This allows the stove to be used as an additional section of the radiator for cooling in summer. Why did the plant abandon this scheme?
I have a stove from M-2140 for two winters. It takes up less space, and it warms up - I go in a sweater at -15. It is put in place of the regular one. You need waterproof plywood, a drill, a jigsaw for cutting plywood.
Removable baffle
On an ordinary UAZ with lower wipers, icing of the left brush (especially its far end) is observed in inclement winter weather.
To combat this phenomenon, I made a simple removable deflector that redirects the warm air flow from the right duct to the "dead zone" between the ducts (where most of the left brush is located).
Approximate dimensions:
The ventilation and heating system of the UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is very simple and primitive both in design and in principle of operation. The heater with its simplest air distribution system simultaneously, in one way or another, participates both in the operation of the heating system and in the operation of the UAZ interior ventilation system.
The standard heater for UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is an extremely primitive installation consisting of a box with dampers, which contains a radiator, an electric motor with an impeller and additional resistance.
The uncomplicated system of distribution of incoming air includes an air intake with a mechanical control drive, two nozzles for blowing the windshield, two corrugated hoses and a damper for the heater box.
On UAZ Hunter cars, since 2010, a plastic box has been added to the heater design, catalog number details 3151-8101231, which is installed between the air intake flap and the heater radiator and is designed to collect and drain rainwater entering the heater when the air intake flap cover is open.
Rainwater entering through the air intake hatch into this plastic box is drained out through a rubber hose that runs to the bulkhead of the engine compartment inside the passenger compartment.
And water or condensate from the inside of the heater is drained through a second rubber hose located in the lower part of its body and also led out into the engine compartment through a hole in its bulkhead.
The installation of the plastic box 3151-8101231 greatly reduced the intensity of the incoming air flow into the cabin when the car was moving and worsened natural ventilation, but rainwater no longer falls on the hot radiator of the heater and does not form steam in the cabin, which settles on the glass from the inside. In addition, this box prevents most of the dust, sand and dirt from getting directly into the heater, and through it into the passenger compartment.
Interior ventilation of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter vehicles.
The car is equipped with natural and forced ventilation. With natural ventilation, air enters the passenger compartment through open pivoting vents or door windows. When the vehicle is moving, the incident air flow is additionally supplied to the cab through the air intake installed in front of the windshield. The air intake is opened with a lever installed to the left of the heater.
With the windows closed and forced ventilation, air is pumped into the UAZ passenger compartment by the heater electric fan without heating it. The air passes through the air intake, the disconnected heater radiator, the fan and enters the driver's and front passenger's foot area, as well as the central part of the passenger compartment to rear seats... In addition, air flows through corrugated plastic hoses to the windshield blow-off nozzles.
The intensity of the forced ventilation of the passenger compartment with the windows closed is regulated by turning on the heater motor to one of the modes, as well as by adjusting the amount of lifting of the air intake flap cover.
Practice shows that the possibilities standard system ventilation with the windows closed is very limited and it does not work efficiently, there is no normal air circulation in the cabin, which leads to constant windows. Therefore, like everything in UAZ, it is desirable to modify the ventilation system in some way, one of the options for such a modification is considered in.
Heating of the interior of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars.
The UAZ interior is heated with heated air, which flows inside in the same way as with forced ventilation, but with the heater radiator turned on. To adjust the flow of hot liquid from the engine cooling system to the heater radiator, a tap is used, which is installed on the cylinder head in cars with UMZ-417 and UMZ-421 engines, or located inside on the bulkhead from the front passenger side, in cars with a ZMZ engine. 409.
In UAZ Hunter cars with a ZMZ-409 engine, to simplify the procedure for controlling the heater tap, you can install a system for it remote control... More on this in a separate.
With the control valve open, the fluid from the engine cylinder head enters the heater radiator and then is diverted to the water pump, forming a small circulation circle parallel to the main fluid flow in the system. Fresh air from outside, through the air intake hatch, passes into the heater box, then by gravity, or forcedly driven by a fan, through a hot radiator, enters the already heated interior.
The flow of thermal air passed through the radiator is distributed to the windshield blowing, heating the driver's and front passenger's feet and through the central part of the passenger compartment to the rear seats. The air flow can be completely directed to blowing off the windshield, for which it is necessary to close the front cover of the heater box and the flaps on the branch pipes of the lower distribution ducts.
The amount and intensity of the heated air entering the passenger compartment is regulated by the opening of the air intake flap cover and the speed of the heater fan. The heater motor switch can be used to select one of two modes of its operation - minimum or maximum fan speed.
The UAZ interior heater works effectively only if the temperature of the liquid in the engine cooling system is at least 80 degrees. In the cold season, to increase the temperature of the coolant, it is advisable to install an insulating cover on the radiator lining on the UAZ Hunter car, and on UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 cars, regulate the air flow using the radiator shutters.
Modification and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater, selection and replacement of the electric motor, seasonal service heater.
Like any primitive design, in order to increase the efficiency of work, the standard heater of the Oise Hunter needs improvement and some uncomplicated refinement. One of possible options such modifications, as well as seasonal maintenance of the heater and air distribution system, are discussed in more detail in a separate section.
I want comfort, cold - opened, hot - closed and all this, without stopping and without leaving the car. Bought - stove faucet from Vaz 08. It was - a choke cable from the same VAZ 08 and a block of control levers from IZH-combi.
I disassembled everything - I love space
Since the manual throttle control cable became unnecessary, I threw it out, and in its place I stuck a cable in a sheath from Vaz 08, why exactly in a sheath? The fact is that the cables pass through the air duct of the stove and all moisture settles on them, and this is rust and a wedge ...
The faucet is assembled and ready for installation. It is necessary to buy sealing gum in the body
Control block…
For me, it fits very well into the overall environment. I threw out the lower lever as unnecessary, I think to transfer the heater motor control to the right toggle switch, and install a cigarette lighter instead of a stationary emergency gang in the empty space on the left ...
The cable sheath should be fixed on the crane body, there is even a special place there, but it does not suit me. I came up with the idea of making my own fasteners. Honestly, by trial and error, I came up with a mount three times and all with the use of two pins, but they disappeared, since it required large manipulations with the metal.
The solution came as an inspiration - the simpler, the more reliable!
I made a template from paper, and then from cardboard, which I transferred to metal and, with the help of a Bulgarian, sculpted the mount!
Drilled holes in the crane body locally
And this is what happened
riveter to help
And I went to the garage to install this miracle of man-made deeds.
and this is from the salon
In the store I did not find any rubber seals in the body for the hoses, if I don’t find it, then as it was, I’ll zafigach on polyurethane foam ... Foam rules!
I left the tap-pump connection for later ... I will connect it locally, bypassing the carb, having bought a meter of hose 16x24
2. Installation of the NAMI-4 cabin heater in the UAZ Hunter
Glasses sweat in Hunter - this is an axiom. One of the main reasons for this ailment is the imperfection of the design of the air intake and interior heater (cabin stove).
The air intake hatch is slightly "recessed" relative to the plane of the front end, so water, without encountering much resistance from the rubber seal of the hatch, enters the passenger compartment. This happens even when the hatch is closed, since the design does not allow the cover to be pressed tightly.
When the hatch is open, rain, snow and spray rush into the air intake in an endless stream. The most interesting thing ahead is that this stream of water and snow falls directly onto the radiator of the stove. The effect is like in a steam room, when you pour hot stones in order to "add to the park."
The air saturated with moisture is sucked in by the stove fan and evenly distributed throughout the car interior. On such days, the UAZovod becomes an illusionist or jugglers, deftly performing manipulations with the steering wheel, gearshift knob and a rag for wiping the windows.
And the regular stove is very fond of warming up the passenger, while simultaneously freezing the driver. The air flow from the fan is unevenly distributed, so the passenger receives significantly more heat than the driver.
This whole madhouse with a stove is very annoying, so the owners of UAZs are all possible ways trying to eliminate design flaws. Some are remodeling the stove itself, others are upgrading the air intake hatch, and still others simply buy a plastic "nostril" for the air intake. I always dreamed of the "NAMI" stove, about which I read a lot of positive reviews on the pages of Drive.
The stove "NAMI" is the development of engineers from the "Central Scientific Research Automobile and Automotive Institute" NAMI ".
You will not find such a stove in an auto parts store - the production is single, well, the maximum is small-scale. The "NAMI" stove has already gone through four modernizations that improve its functionality and power.
The beauty of this stove is that it is devoid of all the drawbacks of a standard UAZ heater, while it has a number of design solutions that increase comfort and ergonomics. The only big drawback of the "NAMI" heater is its high price.
Well, what can you do, you have to pay for comfort ... Having weighed all the pros and cons, I decided not to upgrade my "native" heater, but to buy a ready-made stove "NAMI-4".
I went to the site, called the phone number indicated there, and made an appointment right at the gates of the NAMI institute. On the appointed day, I boarded the morning train and went to Moscow. At the pre-agreed time, an UAZ, of a cheerful, green-orange color, drove up to the checkpoints of the institute. A pleasant old man got out of the car, who turned out to be one of the developers of the NAMI heater. He told me that the heater is assembled from spare parts available in car dealerships (motor, impeller, radiator, cabin filters), but they make the stove body and the "nostril" of the air intake according to their own matrices. The stove is assembled by hand, all joints are carefully sealed. We also discussed the theoretical prospects for increasing production volumes and reducing prices, because at a lower cost, the popularity of this stove would increase significantly. But, according to the development engineer, due to the high cost of components and materials, improve pricing policy does not seem possible. After paying, I took the stove and went home.
Installation of heater "NAMI-4"
Heater set "NAMI-4" consists of:
1. Heater with control unit - 1 pc.
2. Plastic console of the control unit - 1 pc.
3. Hose for coolant supply - 2 pcs.
4. Extended windshield blower hose - 1 pc.
5. Air filter housing - 1 pc.
6. Air filter housing cover - 1 pc.
7. Air filter - 2 pcs.
8. Set of fasteners.
9. Installation instructions.
Installation of the heater "NAMI-4" is described in detail in the attached instructions, but I will try to describe in general terms the scope of work.
He began to install the stove late at night, so do not judge strictly for photographs of a black UAZ in the dark.)))
The first step is to drain the coolant. According to the Operation Manual of the UAZ 315195 vehicle RE 05808600.133-2012 (Edition 2, Rev. 2013) refueling capacity engine cooling systems - 12.5 liters. I combined the replacement of the stove with the replacement of the coolant, having bought two bottles of green "NORD" antifreeze with a volume of 10 liters and 4 liters.
Disconnect the coolant supply hoses and windshield blower hoses from the standard heater, disconnect the electrical wires. We unscrew the standard console from the dashboard. We remove the standard heater, the air intake hatch, the rubber hatch seal, the sunroof control mechanism.
The standard stove is dismantled
Hunter's standard heater and NAMI-4 stove
It is advisable to plug the holes inside the air intake box, which remained after dismantling the sunroof control mechanism.
We thoroughly clean and degrease the groove in which the rubber seal of the hatch was located.
We clean and degrease the groove
We try on the air filter housing to the air intake and drill eight holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm in the metal through the holes in the housing.
Probably, each UAZ is unique, so the shape of the air filter seating surface is slightly different from the shape of the air intake seating surface. Care should be taken to align these parts to be connected.
After the holes are drilled, set the air filter housing aside, remove the metal shavings and apply sealant to the seating surface of the air intake. Yes, thicker, thicker! Water must not enter the passenger compartment through the joint between the air filter housing and the air intake.
I used ABRO silicone black sealant. Used up half the tube. After applying the sealant, we install the air filter housing in place and tighten it with eight self-tapping screws.
Remove excess sealant.
Air filter housing installed
The joint is sealed
We install the cabin air filters in their places and close the cover of the air filter housing, which we fasten with four self-tapping screws. The kit comes with black self-tapping screws, but I safely lost them in the bowels of the garage. By the way, cabin filters from some VAZ model.
Cabin filter from VAZ
Filters in place
As for the cover, I have several comments / suggestions for the designers of this heater.
1. The shape of the bottom edge of the cover does not match the shape of the front of the machine. A not aesthetic gap is formed, into which a lot of dirt is clogged. Most likely I will have to file the edge with a file.)))
Ugh, what a terrible slit
2. The right wiper, during operation, slightly touches the cover. Perhaps this will be cured after processing the lower edge with a file, but there is a possibility that you will have to warm it up with a hairdryer and make a "dent" for the wiper to work freely.
The place of contact between the wiper and the cover
3. The cover must be periodically removed for cleaning or replacement. air filters and removing dirt accumulated under the cover. The fastening of the cover on self-tapping screws begins to loosen over time. It would be more logical to use threaded bushings as a more reliable and durable connection method.
New shape of the air intake
Air intake cover. Front view
Now we turn to work in the car. We install the new heater in its original place using two studs and M6 nuts from the fastener kit. During installation, I had no problems - the heater snapped into place, as if it had always lived there.
Next, we will install the plastic console of the control unit. To do this, we need to drill two holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm in the dashboard through the holes in the console. The console must be in the same plane as the dashboard. We attach the control unit console to the dashboard with two self-tapping screws and already to it, with the help of two self-tapping screws, the standard console with buttons is attached. To be honest, the design is not very strong, and the pads of the wiring harness hardly reach the buttons on the standard console.
Stove control unit console and standard console
Beard. Side view
We connect the control rod of the heater tap and fix it with a special bracket from the fastener kit.
We connect the coolant supply hoses to the heater and the heater tap by tightening the connections with clamps. Installing blower hoses windshield... Here I want to draw your attention to another design flaw. Initially, the coolant supply hoses are not straight, but somehow cleverly curved. It seems that this shape was given to the hoses taking into account their future location in the space between the tap and the heater. In fact, it turned out that only one of the hoses is bent correctly and fits into place as it should. The second hose did not lend itself to proper laying in place. The manipulations of turning, unrolling and swapping the hoses did not lead to the solution of this puzzle. In any case, the hose, which is put on the lower branch pipe of the tap, rests against the heater body and, breaking, strives to jump off. Exhausted, I laid the hose like this:
Laying the coolant hoses
Connecting hoses to the heater tap
Lower hose not routed well
I think I'll have to come back to this question when I start installing the electric pump.
Next, we connect the electrics. From the ignition switch relay I have a wire with a cross section of 4 mm2 to power additional consumers. I connected the heater power wire to the block of this wire. The ground wire was fixed to the ground breaker bolt. Mass mass, damn it. By the way, all the wiring in the heater "NAMI-4" has a cross-section of 2.5 mm2, and the power wire is 4 mm2. A 30A power fuse is attached to the heater body.
Well, almost finished, it remains to fill in the coolant and, crossing your fingers, check the system's performance ...
A little more, eh-eh, a little more ...
A little about impressions:
The heat transfer from the stove is good, but in this regard I did not complain about the standard stove either, because the radiator of the standard stove is twice as large as that of the "NAMI-4". The flow of warm air is distributed more evenly between the driver and passenger, but the second gets a little more. Or maybe I'm so cold? The leg on the gas pedal warms up well, but the left leg is noticeably colder due to the incoming air flow from the side of the door. A strong stream of hot air flows between the front seats, towards the rear seat. In my case, there is an armrest bar between the seats, so you need to use either an additional set of air ducts (sold as an additional option for the stove), or install a second cabin stove. Although even without these tweaks, not a single passenger sitting in the back has ever complained about the cold.
The NAMI-4 fan has three rotation speeds and is much quieter than that of a standard stove. I turn on the second speed only for quick warm-up of the passenger compartment, I do not use the third speed at all.
I forgot about the fogging of windows during rain or snow, like a bad dream. Water does not enter the passenger compartment through the air intake. In the windshield blowing mode, the air flow is much stronger than that of the standard heater.
Unfortunately, due to the design of the air filter, the flow of forced air has decreased while the car is moving, so in the city you have to turn on the fan in the first speed mode a little more often.
But the dust now does not fly straight into the cabin, but is deposited on the filters.
In general, the impressions of the heater "NAMI-4" are positive, I do not regret the money spent.
I decided to put a second stove in my UAZ. And so, armed with tips and tricks, I began to implement the idea of installing a second stove. It all started with the search for the stove itself.
Many people praise the Patriot's cabin stoves. They say, they say, hot, unpretentious, quiet at work. As I found out, there are 2 types of basic stoves for Patrick: OS-4 and OS-7. The difference in power: OS-4 - 4000 W, OS-7 - 9000 W. There are also modifications, but most of them are the same stoves with different design changes. Everything about them is good, but there is such a bad factor as the price. The price for them is such that only the sun is higher. Depending on the model, from 4900 to 8900. And note, these are prices from the Internet, without delivery to Kursk. (Although no, I found one for 3950 rubles in Vladivostok ...)
In general, I began to look for something cheaper, but then they called me and offered a new OS-4 stove in a metal case for 4000 rubles. and a gazelle pump for 500 rubles.
Great, half the battle is done - the most basic parts have been bought. Now we need to connect all this. Namely: connect the hoses to the stove radiator and pump, attach the pump and remove the wiring. And if the connection of the hoses is even more or less clear, then fussing with the wiring is for me a dark forest with wolves. I am not friends with electrical circuits and I need not just a diagram like from a book, but preferably a detailed and understandable one.
They drew me a detailed diagram for connecting a pump and a stove at 2 speeds. The only thing I changed in the circuit is the "+" fuse. Instead of one at 15 A, I put two. Separately for the stove-10 A and separately for the pump-7.5 A.
I couldn't find his name, but anyway, thank you very much.
This diagram is:
Stove and pump connection diagram.
Having bought in stores any small things such as: 3 Zhigulevsky relays, 6 meters of hose for 16 for antifreeze, 6 meters of wire with a cross section of 2.5, 3 meters of wire with a cross section of 0.75, 20 contacts (mom and dad), a heater button 82.3709-04.09, heat shrink different sizes(included) and a wiring splitter, I started installing the stove in the car.
Theoretically, I expected to put a stove between the front seats, but in a metal case it did not fit there. Handbrake and passenger seat interfered. I took the stove out of the protection and tried it on in the car. Fits. And due to the Y-shaped shape, it does not rest on the handbrake, BUT ... Strongly protrudes from the back. Someone from the rear passengers must touch the radiator with his foot. This means that the option of installing a stove without a body in a homemade bar, like in the Patriots, has also disappeared. Option - "under the seat" swept aside immediately because of the narrow sled seat.
As a result, I had no choice but to start doing it myself. It was decided to raise the passenger seat and put the stove in the body as close to the handbrake as possible. She got under the seat just before the sled. I fixed the stove like this:
on the left - the parking brake bolt (here and brought the ground wire),
on the right - 2 self-tapping screws with a press washer.
I had to raise the front by 1.5 cm. passenger seat... I lifted 5 washers for each bolt with a lining. The washers are wide, they have been lying around for a long time, so they came in handy. I don't even know what they are from.
The seat mounting bolts to the floor had to be replaced with longer ones, namely 50 mm. (relatives - 35 mm).
I began to think about where to put an additional pump. Subtracted on the network that there are two main options:
1 - after the engine block. (at the entrance)
2 - In the return flow of the system, after the salon stove.
So because of where to put the pump in the internet, there are whole battles. The people give a bunch of arguments in their favor, in the intervals throwing dicks at opponents. There are physical laws, and the natural resistance of liquids, etc. etc.
In general, without really understanding anything, I decided to put the pump after the engine block. He took off the battery, took off the air filter and began to try on the pump. I tried it on, taking into account that the antifreeze hoses would not bend when they go from the pump to the radiator of the stove. In general, after 4 hours of thought and fitting, I found a place on the body of the battery socket.
I inserted the heater button in place of the rear size buttons, slightly widening the hole in the dashboard. All the same, I have no tailgate and the wiring is isolated and folded from it.
I connected the stoves in series:
Engine block - pump - main stove - additional stove - engine pump. (Antifreeze hoses go into the stoves from below and come out from above.) I started, warmed up the car, everything is fine, there are no leaks at the joints. The hoses of the second stove have warmed up, which means the stove will also warm up. I poured antifreeze into the system, about liters 3.
After that, I finished the wiring and connected everything to the battery. The stove is blowing perfectly. At second speed, from the hot air, the boots sway on the floor near the rear seats in case of dirt.
I never heard how the pump works, it does not make the engine noise. Well, okay, these are trifles. I think I'll hear if need be.
After work, there was still a meter of rubber hose left. "Moms" had to be bought, 5 pieces were not enough. The relay was marked with colored duct tape. Yellow-pump, green-stove.
Well, a photo of the process:
P.S. Continuation:
Ride today, wound 87 km. I went with one and two stoves turned on. It's really hot in the cabin! Even when operating only the front (native) stove at first speed. If you turn on two stoves, the son from behind starts shouting that he is hot.
If you drive with the stoves turned off, the windows start to sweat. The glass also sweats when driving with the second heater turned on.
In general, I am satisfied.
stove without housing
4
installation of the stove in the salon
7
8
pump installation
hose connection
2-speed power button
relay box and fuses
To install the stove, I had to buy a cone drill to make 2 inlet and outlet holes in the floor.
I marked the large holes on a sealing gum, and the fastening holes on a piece of parasite. It would have been possible to mark everything out with the paradise right away, but I did not find it right away. The essence of the hole marking is to print the protruding parts of the stove on the paranita. Then we just apply it to the floor and drill the holes. The main thing is not to confuse the direction of the stove.
The floor could not be cleaned, the water and dirt froze tightly. The photo shows how he ran the wires to the remote control and the power supply of the stove with a pump
My fuel diagram shows that there are 2 tank switches. One for feeding from the left or right tank, the other also for the return. I put a tee on the supply that goes to the filter, connected the pump and ran all the tubes.
I fully connected everything and checked the work. Now it's so hot in the car that you can even wear a T-shirt and shorts.
But after 3 days it stopped starting, white smoke comes out of the exhaust, you can hear the fuel ignite, but after two attempts to start it began to give error 13. I had to check the glow plug, but it was normal. Then I disassembled the stove, and in it, like in the EGR system, unburned fuel with exhaust flakes from a diesel engine turned into clods of shoe polish. I had to clean everything and put it back together.
When assembling the combustion chamber, the bolts of its fastening were completely torn off. The standard is M5x10 under the asterisk. I went to the store, bought 6 M6x10 hexagon bolts, cut a thread into 6 and assembled it.
After several weeks of testing, the stove is still working fine. And it was probably from the fuel when I tested it. Was wrong. Clogged from the addition of antigel. As I stopped adding, the problem went away.
While the 514th diesel is outside the engine compartment, they decided to start modifying their own Hunter's stove.
It's no secret that the native stove does not work ice. You can, of course, replace it with a NAMI stove, but it takes a long time to look for it and the pleasure is not cheap. Therefore, on the Internet, an option was found to refine the native stove with the help of two snails from KAMAZ (left 5320-8118027, right 5320-8118026) and squirrel wheels from GAZelle assembly (3307-8101178). At the same time, they decided to replace the stove faucet, because the family was leaking, and I wanted to adjust the temperature on the front panel, and not by crawling into the legs of the front passenger. For this, a set of a crane and a cable was purchased. Silumin faucet with a ceramic element (as it was written on the package). Of course, he did not become one to one and had to be finalized. A base for the second tube was made from the construction plate (cut off from the old faucet), and bolts were screwed in as studs. Here's a collective farm structure turned out. She stood in a regular place:
Adapter plate
Then they cut off the excess with a jigsaw. And they also dismantled the lower element of the standard stove and cut the bottom of the stove trough. Here's a kit for the assembly turned out:
Assembly kit
Then the snails were installed on a plate, and a Shumka was glued to seal it, since the width of the plate is greater than the width of the flat part of the stove body:
Stove assembly - top view
And front view:
Stove - front view
While the stove was removed, Shumkov was stuck on the engine shield behind the stove. There will probably be little sense, but the Shumka remained :). In this photo, a modified faucet has already been installed in its regular place. And in the panel in front of the turtle, two technological holes were made so that the upper bolts of the gearbox to the engine could be tightened normally:
Noise behind the stove.
We put the modified stove in place:
Stove in place
But it turned out that the snails were not placed quite right. They can get in the way of your legs. We'll have to remove it back and turn the snails towards the engine compartment by 45 degrees, especially since there is a place there:
The snails must be turned
After installing the snails in the correct position, it will be possible to install the cable for the faucet, assemble the electrical part and stretch the blowing of the glass.
In the end, the parallel installation of the snails was unsuccessful. Snails interfered with the navigator's legs:
Snails interfere with the navigator's legs
The stove was removed, the snails were unscrewed, the stove body was put in place and the position of the snails was already marked in place. For the pilot and navigator, the angle of rotation of the snail turned out to be different due to the displacement of the stove body relative to the central axis of the UAZ. After the new marking, the holes in the adapter plate were re-drilled and the snails were re-fixed:
The new position of the stove snails.
Now the stove has become "like a native". Doesn't bother legs anymore:
New position of snails in the cabin
And about the Carlsons and the radiator:
We have long wanted to amputate the great viscous coupling and switch to electric Karlsons. Moreover, when overcoming the fords, it is required to be able to stop the fans so as not to break off the blades. Fans from VAZ 2108 were chosen as eletroKarlsons. They immediately decided to install two for structural reliability and redundancy. Initially, the fitting looked like this:
Fitting Karlsons
But the truth of life put everything in its place. When the fitting with the hulls was carried out, it became clear that such an arrangement would not work. After heated discussions between the pilot and the navigator, it was decided to link the Calson hulls at the same level, and make the ears of the radiator. The housings were interlocked with the remainder of the U-shaped aluminum profile. Moreover, a hairpin was screwed into the upper one for further fastening the clamp for wiring (we want to bring it up):
Linked Carlson hulls
Aluminum radiator ears
To prevent the Karlsons from wiping the radiator, the sharp edges of the cases were pasted over with a U-shaped rubber band:
Elastic band on Carlson's body
Then they screwed it all up with bolts and this is how the radiator with the Carlsons looks like:
Assembled radiator
This design fits perfectly into the engine compartment:
Rating 0.00UAZ 469, like UAZ Hunter, is equipped with heating system which is not capable of heating the passenger compartment. Slots and insignificant thermal insulation make the UAZ Patriot cold.
Right choice
In winter, you want comfortable warmth in the cabin
Installation in the rear of the cabin of the models in question is allowed additional heater... The choice of stove depends on personal preferences, tastes and finances of the owner of the UAZ 469 or UAZ Hunter. In any case, the heater configuration is changed. It can be:
- KITB.3221-8110010;
- heater NAMI-4 or NAMI-7,
- stove from Zhiguli.
Auto mechanics recommend installing on this model autonomous heater NAMI-4, which will run on gas fuel. In this case, it is taken into account that, regardless of the choice made, the stove must have a power of 2-4 kW. The advantage of this system is the autonomous maintenance of the temperature in the cabin. The downside is the complicated installation.
Before you start tuning the UAZ Hunter, you need to take into account that the crane must also be replaced. This is due to its inconvenient location and tendency to leak. The correct solution in this case is to insert a new unit into this system... The crane is installed closer to the stove.
You need to cut in the corner faucet in the cabin, otherwise it can get clogged with dirt. In this situation, one fitting is brought out into the box, and the second is connected to a similar element of the radiator. An important point in this matter is right choice details. It is recommended to install an adjustable valve.
You can give preference to the solenoid valve from the BMW 5 series. It must be mounted in the gap between the outlet and inlet pipes of the furnace radiator. This detail is not understandable. To modernize it, you will need to drill 4 rivets in the cover. In this case, you will get a collapsible design that will be easy to clean. Screws are used to collect it.
Main works
Installing an additional heat source
Before installing a NAMI-4 heater or another model, the old stove is dismantled. If possible existing system heating is being finalized by blowing side windows.
For this, a tee, flexible wiring, drills are used. Initially, you will need to make holes in the torpedo by installing side air ducts from KAMAZ or ZIL in them.
If a NAMI-4 heater is installed in UAZ Hunter or UAZ 469 as an additional furnace, then it is connected as follows:
- Parallel: motor block - electric pump - tee - ball valves - heaters radiators - tee - motor pump. It should be taken into account that each radiator has its own heat transfer and permeability. Upon completion of the dismantling work, the antifreeze passage is adjusted with the help of taps through the heater. This step will allow them to blow in one direction.
- In sequence: motor block - electric pump - stove radiator - heater radiator - engine pump.
When carrying out tuning, you need to remember that the electric pump works more efficiently when the antifreeze puts strong pressure on it. Therefore, the first element must be installed after the motor block. For better heating, hot antifreeze should go up the radiator, and the remaining liquid should come out from below. This is explained by a change in the density of the substance.
Others effective method UAZ 469 interior heating is a tuning of the cooling system. Its work is arranged in such a way that the cooling hot liquid practically does not get into the heater radiator. For this, an electric additional pump is installed. Initially, she is sorted out. Screws are used instead of self-tapping screws. Such tuning will allow you to get rid of the leak.
A new design is installed before or after the stove. The pump is fixed to the UAZ Hunter body with 2 self-tapping screws. From an electrical point of view, this device will operate from the moment the voltage is applied. At the same time, the valve will close the line. Auto mechanics recommend controlling a modern heating system using 2 switches:
- 1st is responsible for turning on the valve and supplying voltage;
- 2nd turns on the pump.
This scheme allows you to block the accidental activation of the pump and the closed valve. In the case of installing a turbine from a Maz's heater, specialist assistance will be required.
And lowering the hatch of the boxes. If the car is not lifted and the hatch is not lowered, the structure will not fit! I needed to seriously recycle the bottom of the stove.
S. Shelikhovsky's warning
Structurally, the ventilation and heating unit (hereinafter referred to as the stove), consists of two parts: upper and lower. This separation is necessary for the convenience of installing the stove on the car.
In the upper part there are: two blower fans from the VAZ-2108, as well as an upper distribution flap, which directs air either to the heater radiator, or directly to the passenger compartment. Also in the upper part there are reflectors for blowing the driver and passenger, as well as "outputs" for blowing the windshield.
In the lower part there is a heater radiator AZLK-2141 ( it is better to buy Iranian - they are made more accurately, according to AZLK (Terra Incognito) they let them pass less than ours, and out of 4 standing on my cars, none of them flowed (our 3 flowed - were replaced with Iranian ones). But you need to be more careful when buying - there are Turkish ones - they are thinner and the heat transfer is correspondingly less. And on Iranian only positive reviews.) air either to the feet, or to blow the windshield, or to heat the driver and passenger (upper body).
The drawings show (30-40 Kb): a side view (with a cut), a view from the salon (with a cut along the section A-A), as well as an external view from the car. All dimensions shown in the drawings are external. I do not recommend increasing these dimensions, as it may be difficult to install the stove on a car. Subject to the specified dimensions, the stove rises without any additional operations. The wall thickness is approximately 5 mm.
As a power frame for the stove, I used a frame riveted from aluminum corners. In the drawings, the corners are shown in red. After making the frame, hardboard was riveted to it (plywood can be used). For the strength of the seam between the hardboard and the frame, I applied glue-sealant. After sheathing, the hardboard was impregnated with waterproof varnish, pasted over with carpet on the outside, and the cavity of the fans was pasted over with polyethylene foam for heat and noise insulation. I will give an approximate list of parts and tools needed to make a stove.
- heater fan VAZ-2108 - 2 pcs.,
- heater radiator AZLK-2141 (it is better to take Iranian) - 1 pc.,
- side deflectors AZLK-2141, right - 2 pcs., left - 2 pcs.,
- stove resistor AZLK-2141 or VAZ-2108 - 2 pcs.,
- control cables for valves AZLK-2141 or the like - 4 pcs.,
- tin (galvanized or ordinary),
- aluminum corners 10x10, 25x25, 30x30, thickness 1.5 - 2 mm.,
- hardboard,
- carpet,
- adhesive sealant such as liquid nails,
- rivets for a gun with a diameter of 3.5 or 4.0 mm and a length of 6 and 8-10 mm.
- fasteners (bolts, nuts, washers M4-M6).
Tool:
- drill with drills,
- grinder or hacksaw,
- scissors for metal,
- rivet gun.
Let's take the following conventional terms: the front part of the stove - the side of the stove closest to the engine; back side - the side of the stove directed towards the passenger compartment. The right and left sides of the stove are respectively located in the direction of the vehicle.
We start manufacturing with the frame of the upper part. Cut 4 pieces of 190 mm from a corner 25x25. They will form the vertical struts of the upper frame. We connect the right and left sides (in pairs) in the lower part with a 30x30 corner (the corner is located: one vertically upward, one horizontally outward) and 175 mm long (this corner will form a plane for connection with the lower part, so you need to attach it at least 3- 4 rivets). Between each other, the right and left parts are fastened from below with a 10x10 corner, 310 mm long (the side is vertically and horizontally inward).
At a height of 55mm, the right and left parts are connected with a 25x25 corner (side vertically up and in). At the same height, a 25x25 corner is attached from the sides (side vertically down and horizontally outward).
Further, the bottom of the fan cavity with a size of 405x175 mm is cut out of hardboard. The bottom should protrude 45 mm to the left of the B-pillars and 50 mm to the right. At the bottom, mark a window for inserting the fan outlet. The fans must be located inside the power cage.
Lateral cavities (45 mm on the left, 50 mm on the right) act as air ducts and do not carry power loads. The back wall of the fan cavity has a size of 420x130 mm. The front wall of the fan cavity is T-shaped and 310 mm wide at 60 mm and 420 mm wide at 130 mm (total height 190). The side walls of the cavity are 175x130 mm in size. In the corners, sheets of hardboard are fastened with a 10x10 corner and rivets.
The holes cut out in the bottom of the fan cavity for the fan air duct should be carefully adjusted around the perimeter. The fan nozzle should fit into this window tightly and without deformation. When installing the fan, you will need to cut off the standard "ears" of the mount, as well as a small "beak" of the air duct bell. (otherwise it will be difficult to insert the fan into the window). After fastening, the cavity of the fans should be impregnated with paint or varnish, smeared with a sealant, avoiding cracks and leaks. Epoxy can be used to increase the rigidity of the structure. The holes for the fan insertion should be covered with polyethylene foam or foam rubber in such a way as to ensure tightness. To increase heat and noise insulation, you should also glue the cavity of the fans from the inside with polyethylene foam 4-6 mm thick, and from the outside with a material such as carpet. Check again how the fans fit into place. The fan housing should be tightly inserted between the vertical walls, and the nozzle should fit snugly into the hole in the bottom. In the future, the fans will be held in place by a frame made of a 30x30mm corner, which forms the upper mounting frame (which is pressed against the plane of the standard air duct of the car). The space where the fan nozzle exits will be conventionally called the supra-radiator cavity.
To evenly distribute the air flow over the radiator, attach an inclined panel from the fan window closest to the engine to the front lower corner of the frame. It is advisable to fill the cavity between the inclined panel and the flat bottom of the fan cavity with a construction polyurethane foam.
In the event that a separate ventilation and heating control system is used for the driver and the passenger, the supra-radiator cavity should be divided in the middle by a partition. The partition is attached to the bottom of the fan cavity with corners or glued with epoxy glue.
The lateral parts of the supra-radiator cavity should be closed with rectangular hardboard plates, but windows should first be made in them to accommodate the electric fan resistor. It should be positioned so that the air flow from the fan is constantly blowing around it.
Next, you should make the upper flaps. In extreme positions, the damper distributes the air flow in two directions: 1) the entire pressure air goes through the radiator, 2) most, approximately 90% of the air goes up to the airflow, bypassing the radiator, and 10% goes through the radiator. In intermediate positions, this ratio changes smoothly, thus it is possible to direct air of different temperatures to the legs and to the face - hot downward, cooler upward. If this operating mode of the heater is not needed, then the upper flaps can be excluded by closing the rear wall of the supra-radiator cavity. The damper is made of tin, and its axis is made of a steel bar 3-4 mm thick (I used the pull of the salon door handle from a VAZ).
The left and right shutters are symmetrical. An exemplary damper profile is shown in the drawing (side view). Cut A is made for "passing" the damper past the fan resistor, protrusion A-B goes inside the fan nozzle, cut B is made in place based on the following condition - in the upper position, this part of the damper should rest against the bottom of the fan cavity. Lugs C are intended for making "loops" - they should be bent around the damper axis and riveted in this position. The damper must rotate on the axis freely and without backlash. Protrusion B is intended for fastening the damper control cable. To exclude the "ringing" of the damper, it is advisable to glue the edge of the damper (or all of it) with rubber.
Next, the air ducts of the upper part are made - under the deflector "to the face" and the side outlet for blowing the windshield or side glass. I made them from galvanized sheet (this material was at hand). It is also possible to make them from epoxy resin and fiberglass.
To make an air duct to the face, we measure the dimensions of the AZLK-2141 deflector box and from tin we make a part of the following type (Fig.) The deflector body must fit tightly into the hole. The body of the deflector has a damper, when closed, the air is redistributed (the flow "to the face" stops and is directed to blowing off the glass). In order to avoid unnecessary protrusions, the inner part of the deflector body should be lightly sawed.
Next, you should make a side outlet for blowing glass. I made it in the following way: I bent a square "pipe" out of tin, and then turned its edge under the hose with pliers into a round pipe. Thus, we got an adapter from a square section to a round one (for a standard hose for blowing glass).
The two pieces are riveted together and then connected to the top of the stove in the same way. Slots and leaks of joints should be coated with glue-sealant. If desired, the outer surface of the air ducts can be pasted over with carpet.
In the front part of the fan cavity, a hole should be provided for draining water - for this, we drill a channel obliquely from the right side, and glue a hose with a diameter of 8-10 mm into it. Cut off the hose from the fan cavity flush. The end of the hose is subsequently brought out into the standard body hole.
Next, we start making the bottom of the stove. To do this, we make a frame for a radiator. The side section of the stove shows the profile of the lower part. For ease of making the frame, I used a 25x25 mm corner, curved in two places. To do this, at a distance of 60 mm from the edge, an incision is made on one of the sides of the corner and in this place the corner is heated to approximately 400 degrees. You can control the achievement of this temperature with a wooden stick (for example, a match), which at a given temperature begins to leave a dark mark on the metal. After heating to the specified temperature, the corner should be cooled in cold water. For about a day, the material acquires plasticity, then the place of heating becomes solid. Further, at a distance of 95 mm, the corner is bent again and cut off after another 120 mm. In this way, the right and left side parts of the frame are made.
Next, you should cut off two pieces 180 mm long from the corner. They form a parting plane with the upper part of the stove and are attached perpendicularly to the 60 mm side of the left and right parts, respectively.
Next, two pieces of the corner of 118 mm are cut off (total height 60 + 60 = 120 - the thickness of the corner is 2 mm). The corners are fastened together, forming a side frame. The radiator must be free to run in width between the side fins. The picture shows the left side. The right one is symmetrical.
Next, the length of the radiator is measured and with a margin of 20 mm, two pieces are cut from the corner 10 * 10 mm. In my case, the size was 310 mm. At a height of 60 mm from the upper plane, the right and left parts of the frame are fastened together with these corners. The corners are located with a "shelf" inward - it is on them that the radiator will "lie".
The side vertical walls are located "inside" the frame, and the distance of 25 mm between them and the outer part is subsequently filled with mounting foam and serves as a support platform for the radiator tanks.
Further, the "exits" of the walls are held together by a corner. Pay attention - its ends are cut on one side and bent down. In the future, the axis of the lower flaps will pass through them.
We make the front wall.
Fill the space between the side wall and the outer frame with "foam". After solidification, we level the plane with a knife.
Next, we glue the side walls with carpet, not forgetting to make holes for the radiator pipes.
We make and screw the air duct to the feet of the rear passengers. It is a 135 * 55 rectangular tin pipe with a central partition. Given size made for the lateral air duct hose from AZLK-2141.
Further, in the side walls, we make bends for heating the side windows. Their manufacture is similar to the manufacture of pipes for the upper half of the stove.
Next, we make the lower flaps. Each of the dampers in the middle has a sector - it divides the flows into two directions - "to the feet back" and "to the feet forward". To reduce air flow losses, a semicircular flow guide is made on that half of the damper that directs air to the feet of the front riders (respectively, the "outer" halves of the dampers). There is a bend on the lateral (inner) side of the damper, into the hole of which the control cable is inserted.The cable itself passes through the "bottom", where its shell is attached.
We also manufacture the body of the deflector to the feet of the front riders from tin (the picture shows the right one). The AZLK 2141 deflector body is inserted inside it after "filing". Thus, it is possible to direct the air flow "to the feet" in the desired direction. The body of the deflector itself is attached to the body of the stove with screws, further forming one of the support points of the stove.
After assembly, the lower part of the stove takes the following form: 
Further along the central partition we lay a seal and insert the stove radiator. Then we combine the top and bottom parts of the stove, align them and drill 6 holes with a diameter of 7 mm (3 on each side) in the corners of the "parting plane". We seal the slots on the sides of the radiator with a sealant and assemble the stove.
We check its operation - blowing, operation of dampers, etc. After checking, the upper and lower parts are disassembled again.
Next, it remains to put two 30 * 30 corners along the upper edge of the fan cavity (attaching them to the vertical corners with M6 bolts), fasten them with crossbars and outline the holes for fastening to the body. I attached the stove to the standard "ears", using two screws from the VAZ-2108 handrail for fastening (M6 screws about 80 mm long). Washers need to be laid under them. On the right side of the frame, a "window" of approximately 100 * 125 mm is formed. It should be closed from above with a sheet of flexible material (for example, polyethylene foam), attached on one side to the frame cross member. Thus, a recirculation valve is obtained - when the heater is turned on at full power, this valve opens slightly and air from the passenger compartment is partially sucked into the stove, accelerating heating.
A 5-15 mm high seal should be glued on the upper plane of the mounting frame (depending on the flatness of the body shelf under the heater).
The upper part is installed first (do not forget to check the openness of the recirculation valve), then the lower part is pushed from the side to the right and attached to the upper part.
The radiator is connected as follows - the front lower branch pipe is the inlet, the rear upper one is the coolant outlet. To connect the fans, you can use the standard AZLK-2141 heater harness, or make it yourself. Since the heater fans are much more powerful than the standard ones, it is advisable to make a separate power supply to them through a 30 A fuse and a relay.
It is convenient to use the control knobs from the VAZ-2105 (07) as the knobs that control the dampers. One lever is superfluous there and we just remove it ...
 Side view |
 View from above |
 Backlight |
 Rear airflow |
The result exceeded all expectations - with ventilation at low speed, you don't have to open the windows at all. When the fan is turned on "at full", the effect of the absence of a windshield is created when driving at speed. In this case, the air flow can be adjusted in direction and intensity. The passenger controls his own side. For example, he can turn on heating only to his feet, and the driver can turn on heating to his feet and blowing "cold" to his face, or you can turn off the passenger altogether. The hand does not tolerate the temperature of the outgoing air stream, and the engine itself, despite a working thermostat of 80 g, cools down to 70 ...
Operation has revealed one caveat - unfortunately, the coolant flow rate in the standard version is not very high and the AZLK-2141 radiator, which has a very high heat transfer, cools it down very much. As a result, the capabilities of the stove are not fully utilized. To eliminate this, it is advisable to build an electric pump from the Gazelle into the heater line. You can turn it on to increase heat transfer with a separate toggle switch.
