Do-it-yourself ATV from improvised means. Homemade ATV. ATV Basic Data

Today, four-wheeled units are gaining more and more popularity. But not everyone can afford to buy such a device. Then the question arises of how to make an ATV with your own hands. The process of creation itself is very exciting, and it is not at all difficult to find components. Therefore, if you have a desire, feel free to get to work.

Before starting work, a clear visual representation of the future structure is required. The drawings of homemade ATVs vary in accordance with the tasks of the owner and the features of further use (transporting goods, passing through rough terrain, etc.). After exploring the basic diagrams and structures, draw your own four-wheeled bike project. An illustrative example will serve as a basis for the work and will help explain to specialists what is required of them.

Of course, homemade work loses to established brands. However, if you choose the right materials and assemble compatible parts, then you get a completely powerful unit that can compete with competitors. Moreover, you will save a lot.

Work process

The first step is to make drawings of the ATV with your own hands. Make the most of your sketching efforts. They will be needed to determine necessary spare parts and calculating costs.

After creating the drawing, start buying components. Usually their main structure includes:

frame - the main structure on which the entire unit will be held;
pipes of various lengths and diameters to ensure the operation of the system;
rolled metal, for the installation of shields, protection and other things;
shock absorbers;
engine and its components.

The ATV is easiest to make with special equipment. If one is not available, the best option would be to contact specialists with ready-made drawings. They will not only do the job well, but they will also be able to adjust inconsistencies parts and mechanisms.

The frame should be made individual, according to the dimensions of the planned device. However, if you wish, you can take a simple frame from a motorcycle or car. Russian production... The easiest way is to make an ATV from the Oka with your own hands. Because Oka's wheelbase is not great, this simplifies the sizing work.

Suspension and shock absorbers from cars and bikes are also great for future crafts. Considering that ATVs are designed for movement on difficult terrain, shock absorbers from a moped Minsk or Dnepr will be an excellent option.

The brakes are a very important part of the design. You shouldn't save on them. Create an ATV with your own hands, 4x4 drives, better with a VAZ brake system. Their durability is designed for cars, so a lightweight four-wheeled bike will respond well to such a system.

The steering wheel can be taken from any motorcycle. It is desirable that weights be installed on it to reduce vibration from the operation of the motor and movement on rocky terrain. This will reduce hand pressure and fatigue while riding.

Depending on which way of operation you choose, you need to select wheels with a wear calculation. For trips on normal roads, simple wheels from the Oka are suitable. However, if you want to achieve good off-road ability, it is worth investing in specialized wheels and tires from manufacturers.

And the most important thing is the engine. The best option the role of the motor will be engines from motorcycles IZH Jupiter or Planet. It won't do quite well new motor... Their simple design will help you to easily replace worn out and broken parts. At the same time, don't forget about cooling. You need to pick up perfect option for different climatic conditions. Active cooling, which unfortunately hasn't been used on motorcycles, is great.

Homemade ATV from Oka, the drawings of which, depending on the operating conditions, must contain optional equipment, can be equipped with fog lights, a tool box (very useful in case of a breakdown) or a winch.

Assembling the structure

After creating drawings and selection of material, you can start creating the unit. First of all, a frame is created, on which all the details will be installed later. It is advisable to use the strongest and most corrosion-resistant materials during work. When driving off-road, the sturdy construction will keep your engine from breaking down more than once.
Next comes the installation of the chassis. Here it is necessary to show the accuracy of assembly, since the coordinated work of all wheels and shock absorbers will provide good dynamics and stability of the apparatus.

Then proceed to the installation of the engine and its components. If the mechanisms are not aligned, never use brute force. This will lead to subsequent operational problems. After connecting the engine to the box, connect fuel system... The fuel tank can be made with a margin, which will ensure the possibility of long journeys.

Now you need to install the electrical equipment. At this stage, wires are laid, headlights, signal lights and other consumer elements are installed.

After completing the main work, you can proceed to the cladding and body kit. It is up to you to use metal or plastic sheets when installing the body kit, but it is recommended select based on the weight load on the engine... With sufficient power, a couple of kilograms will not be noticeable. It is better to install seats with a hydraulic cushion, but you will have to pay extra for this, because when driving for a long time on a bad road, vibration mitigation will provide additional comfort.

This is the easiest way to do homemade ATV from the Oka 4x4. The main thing in work is the correct balance of finances and opportunities. After all, if you want to create an equal four-wheeled bike without calculating the costs, you risk leaving your work unfinished.

How to make a homemade ATV is a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.

However, this kind of dreams come true not for everyone and not at the age at which we would like. But sometimes dreamers still make what they want into reality.

Skills in drawing up drawings, the ability to perform complex technological processes, money and time - these are the main requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.

Today we are going to tell you how to build a homemade ATV using Oki parts and show you this process with the help of a photo selection.

You can find out one of the ways and make sure that it is realistic to independently create an ATV from automobile parts in the example below.

Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)

First, let's give General characteristics project:

Length - 2300 mm;
Width - 1250 mm;
Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
Base - 1430 mm;
Clearance - 300 mm;
Engine - inherited from the OKA car;
Wheels - disks: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
Shock absorbers - "OKA";
Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
Cross-axle gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
Maximum speed - 60 km / h
The gearbox taken from the "OKI" was modified by replacing the standard main pair gears on the chain drive.

This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:

Assembled

Exploded view

Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as supporting parts of the frame. They were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm each and weighing 38 kg for the amount of 1150 rubles.

For levers and suspensions, water pipes were also required (VGP 20x2.8) - two lengths of 6100 mm each, weighing 20 kg cost 650 rubles.

Two used rear axles from "kopeck" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.

From the "eight" (VAZ 2108), fists were taken complete with discs, calipers and other + drive shafts - in total, 4000 rubles were spent for all these BU parts.

Useful metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. - consumable fasteners and materials for such cases should always be enough.

From the above parts, with the help of welding, a pipe bender and locksmith tools, such a structure was created.

Most of them are welded together. structural details... A carburetor was installed.

Homemade 4WD ATV carburetor

Metal strips for suspension, engine and axles are also welded

The hubs are connected to the suspension with new fittings, washers and bolts

After the frame was assembled, miscalculations of the nuances of the position of the engine, the functionality of the gearbox and its attachment, as well as the front suspension with steering wheel began.

As a result, the following moves were applied:

From the rear post, the axle shafts are brought to the hubs. Mount for shock absorbers welded

The gearbox uses a homemade extended stem

The picture shows how the box mount was brought in and the position of the stem outside

The steering knuckle is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering bipod is made of a metal plate independently

After a short test drive, it was noticed that a rocker would be needed to the gearbox rod to shift gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified gearbox.

It must be said that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum revs would not have reached higher than 45 km / h.

Further assembly

The side steps are welded to the frame, the front axle is installed, to front axle the cardan from the gearbox is connected, the front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts are connected to hubs and axle

Installed brake system separately for wheel heels

Installed steering and braking system for the front wheels

Off-road tires purchased (in this case, the most suitable option)

The stage of creating the matrix of the ATV has come. Polyurethane foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings and more came in handy.

The technology of using materials to create a matrix is a very complex process that requires deep and detailed study.

The frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding, is set with light reinforcement and cardboard. The foam was poured with a margin in places where it was supposed to make convex shapes.

The dried foam has been processed with a file, a jackhammer, a knife and other tools

An oil cooler from a helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied

The front suspension is fully assembled. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 from below. Top steering tip from "UAZ"

Treated surface. Side view

The hubs were fitted to the NIVA wheels with special adapters

Hub side view

The matrix is almost ready. Additional frame parts have been prepared for use as a trunk and a bumper at the same time.

The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. The controls were brought up to it.

Painting an ATV

Painted suspension elements

Assembly

The final part of the work is assembly.

Used homemade mufflers... Used as a gas tank plastic canister... Electronics mounted.

From a different angle.

End of work

Completed work.

The panel is borrowed from the OKA car.

We present the ATV of our permanent author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. The next car he built testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself ...

A year has passed since I drove out of the garage and tried out my first ATV with rear wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not make now an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - an all-terrain vehicle; such an international designation was given to such machines).

Fortunately, at this time a buyer turned up on a buggy (), and the proceeds went towards the implementation of a new project.

A year of labor for 3 - 4 hours after work and on weekends - and new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connection lighting equipment, installation of an ignition lock, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

The frame of the machine is spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The side members are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were installed (in place).

1 - front wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - a gearbox (from the Oka car);

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank(20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear fixing lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it is not. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is composed of units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the checkpoint (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain transmission. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reduction gears - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with constant velocity joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the Oka car);

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV JOINT (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from the car VAZ-2108, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no low gears and no differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type(with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick and shaped like the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are tapered holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);

12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);

20 - footboard cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - an eyelet for attaching a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)

Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers and steering knuckles- from a VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect it from thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; d - the upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specially, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the car "Zhiguli")

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tacks". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with styrofoam purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but the expanded polystyrene turned out to be more suitable material- well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, he began to fill in layers polyurethane foam designated place for him. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam was completely dry, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.

Under the dashboard part went into action dashboard Oki. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is coarse, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to ideal condition, then plastering and painting the boob could be neglected.

So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as is known, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

Diluted resin in 200 - 300 grams with hardener and plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on flat surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making folds. By the way, fiberglass stretches moderately along the diagonal of the weave, "flowing" around the desired shape.

First, I smeared thickly with epoxy resin one area of the boob, put glass cloth on it and soaked it on top again with resin. The adjacent piece of fabric was glued using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. We had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also warmed up the resin a little near a powerful illumination lamp for better fluidity.

After obkpeyki boob with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin is used to impregnate a stekomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stekpomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had a little set, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day's break, it was necessary to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.

Trunks:

a - front; b - back

Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother, the better, and the experience was not enough, the dips and pits still remained - I poured them somewhere with one resin, and sometimes with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. There was not enough resin. I bought it already in the household store, in boxes. I liked working with her more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than the one purchased at the company.

After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and rear, false tank with under-seat, front fenders and front end. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with poking around, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the dummy.

Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on "all" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking filling of recesses with fiberglass putty; then sanding the outer surface and a primer with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and coating with varnish with a plasticizer.

The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.

ATV basic data:

Weight, kg ………………………………………… 430

Length, mm ……………………………………… 2300

Width, mm

(on the outer sidewalls of tires) ……… 1250

Height, mm:

on the steering wheel ……………………………………… .1250

on the saddle ……………………………………… ..900

Ground clearance, mm …………………… .300

Base, mm ………………………………………… 1430

Track, mm ……………………………………… 1045

Maximum speed, km / h …………… .65

S. Pletnev, Ocher, Perm Territory

A year of labor for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.

Do-it-yourself ATV from oki

The power unit for my home-made ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

ATV transmission- kind. Although the car is all-wheel drive, there is no transfer case in it. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. Here are just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and the gearbox, had to be shifted relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry slightly to the left in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission has been assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the checkpoint (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain transmission. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reducers- from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from the front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.

There are no low gears and no differential locks.

Steering- motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.

ATV Wheels- 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.

Wheel suspensions are independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car " Oka"(Back). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect it from thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.

DIY ATV body kit

ATV body kit do it yourself - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore I first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tacks". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with expanded polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but expanded polystyrene turned out to be a more suitable material - it is cut well with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.

Diy ATV drawings

Press-> Increase

Diy ATV frame drawings

The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the space intended for it with layers of polyurethane foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, he began to deduce the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.

A part of the “Oka” dashboard was used under the dashboard. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is coarse, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the dummy, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering with plaster and painting the dummy could be neglected.

So, the idiot is ready and in order to glue a high-quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 running meters of non-thick fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. Wearing breathing protection is highly desirable. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, cannot be bought, so I gained it in the process.

I used transparent tape as a separating layer between the dummy and the product. Carefully, without gaps, the whole blockhead pasted over it with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.

After pasting the dummy with fiberglass in one layer, he began to paste over it with glass mat. I got the glass mat quite thick, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit irregularities, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Resin impregnation was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that a lot of resin is used to impregnate glass mat, so you need to dilute it more. After gluing the glass mat, I glued the uneven surfaces in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had a little set, so that the resin would not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day's break, it was necessary to "rough" the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease - after all, the resin hardens completely during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even one layer.

The blockhead also carefully cut and put it in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.

In conclusion, I welded the front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them - "kenguryatniks" replacing the bumpers.

DIY ATV video

Currently, the ATV is a popular vehicle. It is quite easy to operate, has good cross-country ability and a high degree of maneuverability. However, such an all-terrain vehicle is quite expensive and not everyone can buy it. Do not be discouraged, but you can try to make it yourself. How to make an ATV with your own hands? To help our recommendations.

If you are the owner of an old motorcycle and it is gathering dust in the garage, then do not rush to dispose of it. The Ural model is excellent for converting into an ATV.
The assembly of the all-terrain vehicle will consist of the following stages:

alteration of the frame;
installation of the instrument frame;
engine installation;
suspension installation.

What you need to work:

bridge;
shock absorbers;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
brake system;
Tie Rod;
metal profile sheet;
motorbike.

Before starting the assembly, you should decide on the type of control of your homemade ATV. It can be motorcycle and steering.
The next step is to upgrade the frame by moving the vertical seatpost tubes 40mm back. Next, we weld the bridge to the Ural pendulum, slightly cut the lower fork and seat posts. Next to the pendulum suspension bushings, we weld struts made of pipes.
We shorten the bridge to make vehicle more compact and more maneuverable. Now we do cardan shaft, which can be built from the Oka semiaxes.
We need square pipes 25 * 25 * 2 mm for the manufacture of the front suspension. You can borrow steering knuckles from a Zhiguli car. Close attention must be paid to brake system... It is better to purchase it separately to ensure maximum security.
When all the main elements are assembled, then you can start installing the headlights, turn signals and brake lights. We trim the ATV with a profile and prepare it for painting.

ATV from the motorcycle "Izh"

Assembling an ATV from "Izh" does not differ much from assembling an ATV from "Ural".

If you don't even have such a motorcycle, then you can buy it for a very nominal fee. Which will be much cheaper than buying an expensive vehicle.
The fundamental difference between the assembly of an ATV from "Izh" does not differ much from the assembly of an ATV from "Ural".

ATV from scooter

A great homemade ATV can be made from a scooter. We start the work process with drawing up drawings that you can do yourself and slightly redo the frame. Next, we install the engine. We connect the engine shaft to the gear of the rear axle of the ATV using an ordinary chain drive. We bring the controls to the frame and fix the pedals and control levers.
It is better to use components from the same scooter, but it is better to borrow a fuel tank from a motorcycle. Control can be set to steering or motorcycle, whichever suits you best, the brake lever must be fastened to the transmission brake on the rear axle sprocket.
For the body kit we use material from old automotive technology or fiberglass.

ATV from the car "Oka"

You can breathe new life into an old car by trying to build an excellent homemade ATV out of it. Your whole family will love it.
We start by studying professional drawings. We modernize the body, remove the doors and the ceiling. We use comfortable seats for comfort. Next, we install the engine and muffler.
We attach the wheels to the frame using shock absorbers and native suspensions. It is worth thinking about which one you will need and taking care of it in advance. The most important is the braking system. You shouldn't try to save money on this element. We will use the brakes from the motorcycle. The steering wheel can be installed motorcycle or left native. It is important to securely fasten the tie rods. The body is sheathed with metal and painted.

Children's homemade ATV

The presence of an all-terrain vehicle in families with children is even more important. There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad. We pay special attention to safety in the manufacture of a children's all-terrain vehicle. After all, we are talking about the health and life of children.

What is needed for a children's ATV

We decide on the dimensions and appearance... The possibilities are unlimited, everything will depend only on your skills and efforts.

There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad.

We draw up a drawing, it is easy to deal with it yourself. The main stage is the manufacture of the frame. For it, you can use a ready-made model or weld it from a square profile (25x25mm). If you make a frame with your own hands, then due attention must be paid to the quality of the welds. We will buy new wheels, we choose them depending on the age of the child and on the quality of the road surface.
The choice of engine is wide enough. An electric motor from the Volga or a scooter will do. We will install the battery in such a way that it is not necessary to disassemble the entire structure for recharging.
After assembling all the major components, the most enjoyable part of the job begins. You can use a body kit from some old and unusable model children's ATV, but you can use your imagination and come up with a new original author's idea.
Do-it-yourself children's ATV 4x4 will significantly save your budget, bring joy to your child, and teamwork will bring the whole family together.

P.S. Homemade ATVs are not easy to do with your own hands. If something didn't work out right away, think about what and where you made a mistake. Thomas Edison made 10,000 unsuccessful attempts! before he invented the light bulb. And you will definitely succeed.