For motorists real problem The battery may be dead. You should also take into account that starting a car in winter is quite difficult. In this regard, there is often a need to use starting charger. Today, many manufacturers are ready to offer this product. The characteristics of chargers vary quite a lot. However, make a model of this type You can absolutely do it yourself. For this purpose, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the design of the device, as well as find out its basic configurations.

Diagram of a conventional charger

Includes a threshold transformer and a series of resistors. The instrument coil is most often used at 20 V. It should also be noted that the models have a damper. It is designed for resonant vibrations. Expanders in chargers are most often installed of the dynamic type. A wide variety of transistor blocks are used. To connect the model to the battery, clamps are used, which can vary quite significantly in shape.

6V device

Scheme starter-charger This type of transformer assumes the use of a threshold transformer. However, first of all, you should make a durable case for the model. Making it yourself is quite simple. For this purpose, it became important to select sheets with a thickness of about 2.3 mm. In this case, the foundation needs to be further strengthened. To do this, many experts recommend using a foundation to build. After this, the transformer is installed. The coil should be next to it. In this case, it is best to select a low-frequency damper.

The output voltage must be at a level of 5 V. It should also be noted that ROM expanders for a car of this type are only suitable for dynamic ones. Field capacitors are used. To install them, first of all, all contacts are cleaned. Direct soldering of the elements occurs using a blowtorch. At the end of the work, the appropriate clamps are selected for the battery.

How to make a 10V charger?

Making such a starter-charger with your own hands is quite simple. In this case, you must first deal with the body of the model. Some people make it from boards. However, in this situation, much depends on the dimensions of the transformer. If we consider threshold analogues, they weigh a lot. Thus, the base of the device must be strong.

It is also important to make the model transportable. To do this, you need to fix the handles at the top for carrying the device. In this case, it is better to install the transformer in the center of the base. After this, the damper is installed. If we consider linear resonant analogues, then they must withstand a minimum output voltage of 10 V. In this case, the vector frequency should fluctuate around 44 Hz.

Next, to assemble a device of this type, you need to take an expander. Many in this situation prefer capacitorless modifications. However, in this case the load on the transistors will be quite large. It is more advisable to select aluminum type clamps for an autonomous start-charger. They are practically not subject to corrosion.

12 V models

You can assemble this type of starter-charger with your own hands using electrostatic capacitors. Nowadays they are quite easy to get. For this device, it is necessary to make a platform in the housing. Before installing the transformer, a sealant must be laid on it. Only after this will it be possible to work on the inductor.

It is most often selected with a primary winding. In this case, capacitors for the model are more suitable for the open type. They can withstand a maximum output voltage of 20 V. It should also be noted that expanders in this case must be installed last. Before doing this, it is important to secure the damper. In some situations, regulators are also used to control power.

In this case, you need a good power supply. It should also be noted that it can only be installed with a zener diode. In order to fix the clamps on the device, you can use a welding machine. At the end of the work, all that remains is to secure the device damper. It is usually installed near the transformer. As the instructions say, the starter-charger must be checked for grounding before starting.

Single-phase modifications

To make this type of starter-charger with your own hands, you will need an integrated transformer. Nowadays, these modifications are quite popular among motorcyclists. First of all, when assembling the device, it is recommended to prepare in advance all necessary tool. In particular for self-made are selected of high quality and together with a set of keys. For a 12-24V starter-charger, the housing is made of metal sheets with a thickness of at least 1.4 mm.

You can simply screw them together using screws. After this, it is important to lay a rubber seal on the bottom of the case. Next, it will be possible to directly install the transformer. To fix it, many experts recommend making a special insert. It is a U-shaped stop. To do this, you need to take boards about 3.5 cm wide. To fasten them correctly, you must first take measurements of the body. The next step is to install a damper on the 12-24V starter-charger.

In this case, it can be used of the resonant type. This component must withstand the output voltage at a level of 20 V. It should also be noted that capacitors for the model are purchased only of the open type. They are able to maintain a minimum frequency of 45 Hz. At the end of the work, all that remains is to fix the power supply and solder the wires to fix it on the battery.

Two-phase devices

To assemble this type of starter-charger with your own hands, you will need to use a powerful transformer. In this case, the coil must withstand its maximum output voltage at a level of 20 V. A wide variety of dampers are suitable for the device. In this case, much depends on the type of capacitors. Some experts in this situation prefer open modifications. They can last quite a long time.

Resistors for the device are suitable only for integral ones. They are easy to find in stores, but they cost a lot. Next, to assemble the device, you will need to use a powerful expander. Dynamic type modifications are not suitable in this case. Induction models are considered more stable. In order to fix the clamps, it is necessary to use a cable with a diameter of about 0.4 mm.

Three-phase models

Circuits of this type involve the use of powerful transistor blocks. In order to install them, you must first prepare a site for them. In this case, the body can be built as an open type without a top. In this case, the car starter-charger can be transported on wheels. Transistors in this situation are selected as network type. The minimum output voltage they can withstand is about 15 V.

The frequency parameter of these elements on average does not exceed 40 Hz. The transformer for the model is selected as a standard threshold type. In this case, the coil must be designed for low frequencies. The damper for a car starter-charger of this type is selected to be resonant. It only needs to be installed on the seal. Some specialists additionally install indication systems for three-phase modifications. They are needed in order to look at the panel at the output voltage level.

Application of pulse transformer PP20

The device circuits include transformers of the PP20 series, as well as resonant-type dampers. Capacitors for this model are suitable only for the electrostatic type. It is necessary to begin assembling the device by welding the base. For this purpose, metal sheets are prepared with a thickness of about 2.2 mm. Coils with a primary winding are used quite often in this case.

In this case, a wide variety of display systems are suitable. In general, the above transformer can withstand an output voltage of 15 V. Zener diodes are used only magnetic. Aluminum clamps can be successfully used as clamps. Their conductivity is quite good, but they differ in shape. In this case, it is better to give preference to small-sized modifications.

Use of PP22 transformers

Transformers of the PP22 type are very common today. In this case, the coils are used with copper winding. Their density is quite high, and they can last a long time. However, such devices still have disadvantages. First of all, it should be noted that models with the specified transformer suffer from increased output voltage. Thus, sudden surges in the network can lead to complete overheating of the capacitors.

Resistors also often fail. If the device has an indication system, the diodes will burn out due to overvoltage. It is necessary to install transformers on the model only with seals. At the same time, the toggle switch is suitable for the P2 series. In turn, indicators are often used in the IN3 class.

Engine starting internal combustion even a passenger car in winter, and even after a long period of parking, is often a big problem. This issue is even more relevant for powerful trucks and tractor-trailer equipment, of which there are many already in private use - after all, they are operated mainly in conditions of garage-free storage.

And the reason for difficult starting is not always that accumulator battery“not my first youth.” Its capacity depends not only on the service life, but also on the viscosity of the electrolyte, which, as is known, thickens with decreasing temperature. And this leads to a slowdown in the chemical reaction with its participation and a decrease in the battery current in starter mode (by about 1% for each degree of temperature decrease). Thus, even a new battery significantly loses its starting capabilities in winter.

Do-it-yourself starting device for a car

To insure against unnecessary hassle associated with starting a car engine in the cold season, I made a starting device with my own hands.
The calculation of its parameters was carried out according to the method specified in the list of references.

The operating current of the battery in starter mode is: I = 3 x C (A), where C is the nominal battery capacity in Ah.
As you know, the operating voltage on each battery (“can”) must be at least 1.75 V, that is, for a battery consisting of six “cans,” the minimum operating voltage of the Up battery will be 10.5 V.
Power supplied to the starter: P st = Uр x I р (W)

For example, if on passenger car A 6 ST-60 battery is installed (C = 60A (4), Rst will be 1890 W.
According to this calculation, according to the scheme given in, a launcher of the appropriate power was manufactured.
However, its operation showed that it was possible to call the device a starting device only with a certain degree of convention. The device was capable of operating only in the “cigarette lighter” mode, that is, in conjunction with the car’s battery.

At low outside temperatures, starting the engine with its help had to be done in two stages:
- recharging the battery for 10 - 20 seconds;
- joint (batteries and devices) engine promotion.

An acceptable starter speed was maintained for 3 - 5 seconds, and then decreased sharply, and if the engine did not start during this time, it was necessary to repeat everything all over again, sometimes several times. This process is not only tedious, but also undesirable for two reasons:
- firstly, it leads to overheating of the starter and increased wear;
- secondly, it reduces the battery life.

It became clear that these negative phenomena can be avoided only when the power of the launcher is sufficient to start a cold car engine without the help of a battery.

Therefore, it was decided to manufacture another device that satisfies this requirement. But now the calculation was made taking into account losses in the rectifier unit, supply wires and even on the contact surfaces of the connections during their possible oxidation. One more circumstance was also taken into account. The operating current in the primary winding of the transformer when starting the engine can reach values ​​of 18 - 20 A, causing a voltage drop in the supply wires of the lighting network by 15 - 20 V. Thus, not 220, but only 200 V will be applied to the primary winding of the transformer.

Diagrams and drawings for starting the engine

According to the new calculation according to the method specified in, taking into account all power losses (about 1.5 kW), the new starting device required a step-down transformer with a power of 4 kW, that is, almost four times more than the power of the starter. (Corresponding calculations were made for the manufacture of similar devices intended for starting engines of various cars, both carburetor and diesel, and even with on-board network voltage 24 V. Their results are summarized in the table.)

At these powers, such a rotation speed is ensured crankshaft(40 - 50 rpm - for carburetor engines and 80 - 120 rpm - for diesel engines), which guarantees reliable engine starting.

The step-down transformer was made on a toroidal core taken from a burned-out stator asynchronous electric motor power 5 kW. Cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic circuit S, T = a x b = 20 x 135 = 2700 (mm2) (see Fig. 2)!

A few words about preparing the toroidal core. The stator of the electric motor is freed from winding residues and its teeth are cut out using a sharp chisel and hammer. This is not difficult to do, since the iron is soft, but you need to use safety glasses and gloves.

The material and design of the handle and base of the trigger are not critical, as long as they perform their functions. My handle is made of a steel strip with a cross section of 20x3 mm, with a wooden handle. The strip is wrapped in fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin. A terminal is mounted on the handle, to which the input of the primary winding and the positive wire of the starting device are then connected.

The frame base is made of a steel rod with a diameter of 7 mm in the form of a truncated pyramid, the ribs of which they are. The device is then attracted to the base by two U-shaped brackets, which are also wrapped in fiberglass impregnated with epoxy resin.

A power switch is attached to one side of the base, and a copper plate of the rectifier unit (two diodes) is attached to the other. A minus terminal is mounted on the plate. At the same time, the plate also serves as a radiator.

The switch is type AE-1031, with built-in thermal protection, rated for a current of 25 A. Diodes are type D161 - D250.

The estimated current density in the windings is 3 - 5 A/mm2. The number of turns per 1 V of operating voltage was calculated using the formula: T = 30/Sct. The number of turns of the primary winding of the transformer was: W1 = 220 x T = 220 x 30/27 = 244; secondary winding: W2 = W3 = 16 x T = 16x30/27 = 18.
The primary winding is made of PETV wire with a diameter of 2.12 mm, the secondary winding is made of an aluminum busbar with a cross-sectional area of ​​36 mm2.

First, the primary winding was wound with a uniform distribution of turns around the entire perimeter. After that, it is turned on through the power cord and the current is measured. idle move, which should not exceed 3.5A. It must be remembered that even a slight decrease in the number of turns will lead to a significant increase in the no-load current and, accordingly, to a drop in the power of the transformer and starting device. Increasing the number of turns is also undesirable - it reduces the efficiency of the transformer.

The turns of the secondary winding are also evenly distributed around the entire perimeter of the core. When laying, use a wooden hammer. The leads are then connected to the diodes, and the diodes are connected to the negative terminal on the panel. The middle common terminal of the secondary winding is connected to the “positive” terminal located on the handle.

Now about the wires connecting the starter to the starter. Any carelessness in their manufacture can nullify all efforts. Let's show this with a specific example. Let the resistance Rnp of the entire connecting path from the rectifier to the starter be equal to 0.01 Ohm. Then, at a current I = 250 A, the voltage drop on the wires will be: U pr = I r x Rpr = 250 A x 0.01 Ohm = 2.5 V; in this case, the power loss on the wires will be very significant: P pr = Upr x Iр = 625 W.

As a result, a voltage of not 14, but 11.5 V will be supplied to the starter in operating mode, which, of course, is undesirable. Therefore, the length of the connecting wires should be as short as possible (1_p 100 mm2). The wires must be stranded copper, in rubber insulation. For convenience, the connection to the starter is made quick-release, using pliers or powerful clamps, for example, those used as electrode holders for household welding machines. In order not to confuse the polarity, the handle of the clamps of the positive wire is wrapped with red electrical tape, and the handle of the negative wire is wrapped with black tape.
The short-term operating mode of the starting device (5 - 10 seconds) allows its use in single-phase networks. For more powerful starters (over 2.5 kW), the PU transformer must be three-phase.

A simplified calculation of a three-phase transformer for its manufacture can be made according to the recommendations set out in, or you can use ready-made industrial step-down transformers such as TSPK - 20 A, TMOB - 63, etc., connected to a three-phase network with a voltage of 380 V and producing a secondary voltage of 36 V.

The use of toroidal transformers for single-phase starting devices is not necessary and is dictated only by their best weight and dimensions (weight about 13 kg). At the same time, the technology for manufacturing a starting device based on them is the most labor-intensive.

The calculation of the starting device transformer has some features. For example, the calculation of the number of turns per 1 V of operating voltage, made according to the formula: T = 30/Sct (where Sct is the cross-sectional area of ​​the magnetic circuit), is explained by the desire to “squeeze” the maximum possible out of the magnetic circuit to the detriment of efficiency. This is justified by its short-term (5 - 10 seconds) operating mode. If dimensions do not play a decisive role, you can use a more gentle mode by calculating using the formula: T = 35/Sct. The magnetic core is then taken with a cross-section that is 25 - 30% larger.
The power that can be “removed” from the manufactured PU is approximately equal to the power of the three-phase asynchronous electric motor from which the transformer core is made.

When using a powerful starting device in a stationary version, according to safety requirements, it must be grounded. The handles of the connecting pliers must be rubber insulated. To avoid confusion, it is advisable to mark the “plus” part, for example, with red electrical tape.

When starting, the battery does not need to be disconnected from the starter. In this case, the clamps are connected to the corresponding terminals of the battery. To avoid overcharging the battery, the starting device is immediately turned off after starting the engine.

Today the topic of our post is called a small homemade starting device for starting a car, namely a starting device, not a charger, since we have many articles on this site about car chargers and how to charge. Therefore, today we are exclusively talking about a homemade battery starter.

Portable jump starters for Vehicle with your own hands

So, what is a starting device for a car in general, in our case for the Hyundai Santa Fe, but this is not particularly important for which car, the capacity of the battery through which this starting device will start the engine is more important.

DIY car starter diagram

In this article we will look at the most the simplest scheme do-it-yourself starting device for a car, because most people do not have the knowledge in circuit design and electronics to create complex starting devices, and it is not always profitable to purchase a lot of parts for homemade products, which sometimes at cost can come out as a budget ready-made starting device for a car from a store.

So, in our case, for the launcher, we do not intend to purchase an expensive high-capacity portable battery, otherwise the device will immediately turn from a budget device into a very expensive one.

We will be making a starting device for a car from a 220V network, for this we will need a powerful transformer, preferably with a power of at least 500 Watt, and preferably 800 Watt, ideally 1.2-1.4 kilowatts = 1400 Watts. Since when starting the engine, the first impulse given by the battery to crank the crankshaft = 200 Amperes and the consumption of the starter is approximately 100 Amperes, and when our 100A device is combined with the battery, they will just give out 200A at the start and then our starter will help maintain the current strength of 100 Amps for normal starting and operation starter until the engine starts completely.

This is what a DIY car starter diagram looks like, photo below

Transformer for car starter

To create such a starting device from a transformer-type network, you need to rewind the transformer itself.

We will need:

• Transformer core
  
• Copper wire 1.5mm-2mm
• Copper wire 10mm
• Two powerful diode like on welding machines
  
• Alligator clips for ease of use and connecting the starter wires to the car battery, very preferably copper, as they have high conductivity, and thick, at least 2 mm thick
  

We actually begin the process of making a portable starting device for a car with our own hands

To do this, you need to make the primary winding of the transformer with copper wire in insulation with a diameter of at least 1.5-2 mm, the number of turns will be approximately 260-300.

After you wind this wire onto the transformer core, you need to measure the current and voltage produced at the output of these windings, it should be in the range of 220-400 mA.

If you get less, then unwind a few turns of the winding, and if you get more, then on the contrary, wind it up.

Now you need to wind the secondary winding of the transformer of the starting charger. It is advisable to wind it with a multi-core cable with a thickness of at least 10mm, as a rule, the secondary winding contains 13-15 turns, at the output when measuring on the secondary winding you should get 13-14 volts, and as you understand, the voltage has become small, 13 volts in total, but the power the current flowing through it increased to approximately 100 Amperes, but was only 220-400 milliamps, that is, the current increased by approximately 300-400 times, and the voltage decreased by approximately 15 times.

For a battery, both are important, but in this case the key role is played by the current strength.

Winding explanations

If you cannot achieve a voltage of 13-14 volts, then simply wind 10 turns on the secondary winding, measure the voltage, now divide this voltage by the number of turns in our case 10 and get the voltage of one turn, and then simply multiply how many turns are needed to achieve 13-14 volts at the output of the secondary winding of a transformer homemade starting device.

For clarity, let's look at an example:

WE wound the secondary winding with 10 turns, we measure the voltage with a multimeter, for example, we got 20 volts, but we need about 13.

This means that we take our voltage of 20 volts and divide by the number of wound turns 10 = 20/10 = 2, the number 2 is 2 volts and gives us the voltage of one turn, which means how can we achieve 13-14 volts knowing that one turn produced 2 volts.

We take the value of the voltage we need, let it be 14 volts, and divide it by the voltage of one turn 2 volts, = 14/2 = 7, the number 7 is the number of turns on the secondary winding of the car charger necessary to achieve 14 volts of output voltage.

Now let's all wind our 7 turns. And to the outputs of these turns, according to the diagram of the starting device for a car with your own hands, which is located above, we connect our diodes, some car enthusiasts also use a circuit with one diode and one 12V 60-100 watt lamp, as in the photo below

How to start a car using a homemade jump starter

You put the terminals of our homemade starting device on top of the battery terminals, the battery is also connected to the car, we turn on our starter and immediately try to start the engine, as soon as the engine starts, we immediately disconnect the starting device from the network and disconnect it from the battery.

Capacitor jump starter for car

Some car owners, having at their disposal capacitors high power or, more correctly, capacitances, make a capacitor starting device for a car with your own hands using them instead of a portable portable battery. That is, such a device can be quickly charged from the mains in a minute, then brought to the car, and the engine can be started without connecting the starter to the mains.

But as a rule, such a scheme requires some deep knowledge of electronics and an understanding of the capacitance of capacitors and the principle of their operation, and even if you don’t have capacitors lying around, then it will not be advisable to buy them, since large capacitors are very expensive, and you will need several of them or even a dozen, and how then the price will not be lower than a good factory-made starting device, while you will also spend a lot of nerves and time creating such a shock.

By the way, the capacitor starting device for the Golden Eagle car has gained some popularity in our area - here is its photo below

Therefore, it was the transformer starter that was most widespread in Soviet times, and even now; store-bought versions of such starters, of course, have been modified and contain various additional elements that make starting the engine from the mains easier and safer.

Any start from any type of launcher always has a negative effect on the condition of the battery, since the battery receives a large current in a very short period of time, which gradually leads to degradation and destruction of its plates during a system start from the launcher.

Therefore, it is better to still use a charger if you are not urgent to start the engine right now.

Well, our post entitled homemade portable launcher for cars is coming to an end. Write your reviews about what you think about this startup device circuit, whether you have ever used it and whether you were able to start the engine of your car.

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Starting an internal combustion engine (ICE) in the cold season is a big problem. In addition, in the summer when the battery is dead, this is quite a difficult task. The cause is the battery. Its capacity depends on the service life and viscosity of the electrolyte. The condition or consistency of the electrolyte depends on the ambient temperature.

At low temperatures, it thickens and the chemical reactions necessary to power the starter slow down (the current decreases). Batteries very often fail in winter, since it is very difficult for the car to start, and more current is consumed than in summer period. To solve this problem, car starter-chargers (RODs) are used.

Classification of starter-chargers

Despite similar functions for starting internal combustion engines, ROMs come in several types in terms of design and mechanism.

Types of ROM:

• transformer;
• battery;
• capacitor;
• pulsed.

There are also factory models, among which you need to choose ROMs that start without a battery and work stably even in severe frost.

The output of each of them produces a current of a certain value and a voltage (U) of 12 or 24 V (depending on the device model).

Transformer ROMs are the most popular due to their reliability and repairability. However, among other types there are worthy models.

The operating principle of transformer ROMs is very simple. The transformer converts the mains U into a reduced variable, which is rectified by a diode bridge. After the diode bridge D.C. with pulsating amplitude components is smoothed out by a capacitor filter. After the filter, the current rating is increased using various types of amplifiers made of transistors, thyristors and other elements. The main advantages of transformer type ROM are the following:

• reliability;
• high power;
• starting the car if the battery is “dead”;
• simple device;
• regulation of U values ​​and current strength (I).

The disadvantages are its dimensions and weight. If you can’t buy one, then you need to assemble a starting charger for the car with your own hands. The transformer type has a fairly simple device (diagram 1).

Scheme 1 - Homemade starting device for a car.

To make a starter-charger with your own hands, the circuit of which includes a transformer and a rectifier, you need to find radio components or purchase them at a specialized store. Basic requirements for a transformer:

• power (P): 1.3−1.6 kW;
• U = 12−24 V (depending on the vehicle);
• current of winding II: 100−200 A (the starter consumes about 100 A when rotating the crankshaft);
• area (S) of the magnetic circuit: 37 sq. cm;
• wire diameters of windings I and II: 2 and 10 sq. mm;
• the number of turns of winding II is selected during calculation.

Diodes are selected according to reference books. They must be designed for large I and reverse U > 50 V (D161-D250).

If it is not possible to find a powerful transformer, then a simple starting-charging circuit car device will have to be complicated by adding an amplifier stage using a thyristor and transistors (scheme 2).

Scheme 2 - Do-it-yourself starting and charging with a power amplifier.

The principle of operation of a ROM with an amplifier is quite simple. It must be connected to the battery terminals. If the battery charge is normal, then U does not come from the ROM. However, if the battery is discharged, then the thyristor junction opens and the electrical equipment is powered by the ROM. If U increases to 12/24 V, then the thyristors close (the device turns off). There are two types of thyristor transformer ROMs:

• full-wave;
• pavement.

With a full-wave manufacturing circuit, you need to choose a thyristor of about 80 A, and with a bridge circuit, from 160 A and above. Diodes must be selected taking into account a current from 100 to 200 A. The KT3107 transistor can be replaced with a KT361 or another analogue with the same characteristics (it can be more powerful). Resistors located in the thyristor control circuit must have a power of at least 1 W.

Battery-type ROMs are called boosters and represent portable batteries that operate on the principle of a portable charger unit. They are domestic and professional. The main difference is the number of built-in batteries. Household ones have a capacity sufficient to start a car with a dead battery. It can only power one unit of equipment. Professional ones have a large capacity and are used to start not one car, but several.

Capacitors have very complex circuit executions, and, therefore, it is not profitable to do them yourself. The main part of the circuit is the capacitor block. Such models are expensive, but they are portable ROM, capable of starting the starter even with a “dead” battery. Frequent use causes the battery to wear out very quickly if it is new. The most popular among all models were Berkut (Figure 1) with starting currents 300, 360, 820 A. The operating principle of the device is to quickly discharge the capacitor unit and this time is enough to start the internal combustion engine.

If you compare battery and capacitor ROM, you need to take into account the features of use in a specific situation. For example, when traveling around the city, the battery type is suitable. In the event that long trips occur, then you should choose an autonomous type of ROM, namely capacitor.

Devices based on switching power supplies

Another option is a pulse-type ROM (scheme 3). This device is capable of generating currents of up to 100 amperes or more (depending on the elemental base). ROM represents pulse source power supply with a master oscillator on the IR2153 chip, the output of which is made in the form of an ordinary repeater based on the BD139/140 or its analogue. The switching power supply (hereinafter referred to as UPS) uses powerful transistor switches of the 20N60 type with a current of 90 A and a maximum U = 600 V. The circuit also contains a unipolar rectifier with powerful diodes.

Scheme 3 - Starting device DIY portable for the car with the ability to charge the battery.

When connected to the network through the circuit “R1 - R2 - R3 - diode bridge”, the electrolytic capacitors C1 and C2 are charged, the capacity of which is directly proportional to the power of the UPS (2 μ per 1 W). They must be designed for U = 400 V. The voltage for the pulse generator is supplied through R5, which grows over time across the capacitors and U on the microcircuit. If it reaches 11 - 13 V, then the microcircuit begins to generate pulses to control the transistors. In this case, U appears on II windings of the transformer and the composite transistor opens, power is supplied to the relay winding, which smoothly starts the starter. The relay response time is selected by the capacitor.

This ROM is equipped with current protection short circuit(short circuit) using resistors acting as fuses. During a short circuit, they open a low-power thyristor, which short-circuits the corresponding terminals of the microcircuit (it stops working). The disappearance of the short circuit is indicated by the LED that will light up. If there is no short circuit, then it will not burn.

Calculation example

To properly manufacture a ROM, you need to calculate it. The transformer type of device is taken as the basis. The battery current in the starting mode is I st = 3 * C b (C b is the battery capacity in A*h). The operating U on the “bank” is 1.74 - 1.77 V, therefore, for 6 banks: U b = 6 * 1.76 = 10.56 V. To calculate the power consumed by the starter, for example, for 6ST-60 s with a capacity of 60 A: P c = U b * I = U b * 3 * C = 10.56 * 3 * 60 = 1,900.8 W. If you assemble the device using these parameters, you get the following:

1. The work is carried out together with a standard battery.
2. To start, you need to recharge the battery for 12 - 25 seconds.
3. The starter spins with this device for 4 - 6 seconds. If the launch fails, you will have to repeat the procedure again. This process has a negative impact on the starter (the windings heat up significantly) and the service life of the battery.

The device should be much more powerful (Figure 1), since the transformer current is in the range of 17 - 22 A. With such consumption, U drops by 13 - 25 V, therefore, the network U = 200 V, and not 220 V.

Figure 2 - Schematic representation of the ROM.

Fundamental electrical diagram consists of a powerful transformer and rectifier.

Based on new calculations, the ROM requires a transformer with a power of about 4 kW. With this power, the crankshaft rotation speed is ensured:

• carburetor: 35 - 55 rpm;
• diesel: 75 - 135 rpm.

To make a step-down transformer, it is advisable to use a toroidal core from an old powerful high-power electric motor. The current density in transformer windings is approximately 4 - 6 A/sq. mm. The area of ​​the core (iron ore) is calculated by the formula: S tr = a * b = 20 * 135 = 2,700 sq. mm. If another magnetic circuit is used as a basis, then you need to find examples on the Internet of calculating a transformer with this form of iron ore. To calculate the number of turns:

1. T = 30/S tr.
2. For winding I: n 1 = 220 * T = 220 * 30/27 = 244. Winded with a wire with a diameter of 2.21 mm.
3. For II: W 2 = W 3 = 16 * T = 16 * 30/27 = 18 turns of aluminum bar with S = 36 sq. mm.

After winding the transformer, you need to turn it on and measure the current idle work. Its value should be less than 3.2 A. When winding, you need to evenly distribute the turns over the area of ​​the coil frame. If the no-load current is higher than the required value, then remove or rewind the turns on winding I. Attention: Winding II must not be touched, as this will lead to a decrease in the coefficient useful action(efficiency) of the transformer.

The switch should be selected with built-in thermal protection; use only diodes rated for a current of 25 - 50 A. All connections and wires should be laid carefully. Wires should be used of a minimum length and stranded copper with a cross-section of over 100 square meters. mm. The length of the wire matters, since it may have U losses of about 2 - 3 V when the starter starts. Make the connector with the starter quick-release. In addition, in order not to confuse the polarity, you need to mark the wires (“+” is red insulating tape, and “-” is blue).

The ROM should start for 5 - 10 seconds. If powerful starters (over 2 kW) are used, then single-phase power supply will not be suitable. In this case, you need to modify the ROM for the three-phase version. In addition, it is possible to use ready-made transformers, but they must be quite powerful. Detailed calculations of a three-phase transformer can be found in reference books or on the Internet.