UAZ 3151 military bridges. What is the difference between military and civilian UAZ bridges? Simple language for everyone. Advantages of military bridges over civilian

The so-called collective farm, as well as "military" bridges are traditionally installed on UAZ vehicles. What is the specificity of both?

What are "collective farm" bridges on UAZ vehicles?

The bridges in question are also referred to as "civil". These designs provide the transmission of torque through the differential and axle shaft directly to the wheel hubs. "Collective farm" bridges are characterized by:

small mass;
simplicity of design, low cost of repair and maintenance;
the ability to install differentials with a self-locking function;
low noise level;
functionality assuming moderate dynamics of fuel consumption by the vehicle.

According to motorists, UAZ with "collective farm" bridges provides a sufficiently high stability of the car on the road, and also copes well with braking. These bridges allow to achieve good cross-country ability of the machine. Decent maximum speed car - about 100 km / h.

The alternative to "collective farm" bridges is most often the "military". Let's consider their specifics.

What are "military" bridges on UAZ vehicles?

These mechanisms provide the transmission of torque using a special gearbox. Therefore, "military" bridges are often also referred to as gear bridges.

Their main advantages:

functionality, which implies an increase in the vehicle's ground clearance by about 8 cm in comparison with the "collective farm" bridges;
higher torque when driving a car at low rpm off-road;
even distribution of the load between the gearbox and the main pair, as a result of which the reliability of the bridge is increased.

However, the main advantage of the "military" bridge is its ability to guarantee extremely high cross-country ability of the vehicle. At the same time, this advantage is provided not only due to the clearance, but also due to a more efficient distribution of torque over the wheels.

A car with a "military" bridge goes better uphill. So, UAZ, on which the corresponding mechanism is installed, in principle, can overcome the rise with a slope of about 50% without any special problems. In turn, in a car with a "collective farm" bridge, it is better not to try to storm such obstacles.

The installation of a "military" bridge on the UAZ predetermines a slight increase in gasoline consumption by car - by about 1-1.5 liters per 100 km. In addition, there may be additional costs for servicing the machine. Maximum speed " iron horse"With a" military "bridge is slightly reduced - up to 90 km / h.

UAZ with a "military" bridge also slightly reduces vehicle stability on the road and when braking. This is due to the increased run-in shoulder due to the presence of wheel reduction gears in the design of the mechanism under consideration.

Comparison

The main difference between "collective farm" bridges from "military" ones on UAZ vehicles is that the former do not have a gearbox in their design. On the second, the corresponding mechanism is installed. Hence the difference between the key characteristics of vehicles on which "collective farm" and "military" bridges are installed in the aspect:

speed;
stability on the road;
patency;
ability to climb uphill;
clearance values;
gasoline consumption.

Having determined what is the difference between "collective farm" and "military" bridges on UAZ vehicles, we will fix the conclusions in a small table.

table

"Kolkhoz" bridges	"Military" bridges
Do not have a gearbox	Have a reducer
Provide vehicle speed of about 100 km / h	Provide vehicle speed of about 90 km / h
Ensure higher vehicle stability on the road	Give less stability to the car
Provide good cross-country ability of the vehicle	Provide very high flotation
Do not always provide effective lifting of the car uphill	Easily provide lifting of the machine uphill with a slope of about 50%
Do not significantly increase ground clearance	Increase ground clearance by about 8 cm in comparison with "collective farm" bridges
Assumes a moderate dynamics of gasoline consumption by a car	It is assumed that gasoline consumption will increase by about 1-1.5 liters per 100 km.

Anyone who is at least a little fond of off-road, four-wheel drive, or just lives in the village, at least once (or even more than one), tried to understand how the civilian bridges of the UAZ differ from the military. Today our editorial staff decided to answer this question for everyone, rahu the details in the simplest language (well, or not quite).

It is not right to go straight to the analysis, you need to understand the whole context and interconnection of future facts, and perhaps we will start with them.

History

The same, famous, eternal and legendary 469 UAZ appeared as the heir to GAZ 69, the task of developing new SUV military purpose, delivered by the Ministry of Defense. Since the operating experience was enough for the eyes, the military clearly understood what they needed and what they absolutely did not need.

The essence: Design a car on a new base, lighter weight (to increase cross-country ability), dynamic, not inferior to the cross-country ability of GAZ 66, so that the car could move on the march with columns of tanks, while being easily serviced in field conditions... And as a bonus - the production price should be low, but using modern technologies at that time.

Since agriculture also required an all-terrain vehicle. Spoiler immediately - UAZ was released in 1966, while the people's Niva in 1975, count 10 years difference.

So, in order to save engineering and production resources, it was decided to create two types of bridges, for military and civilian tasks. In everyday life, ordinary UAZ bridges were called simply and understandably - collective farm, and military portal or gearboxes.

What is the difference between them?

In military bridges, a final drive is located between the hub and the axle shaft, in an additional crankcase.

Pros of "Voyak"

Stock clearance is 6-8 cm more;
The load is evenly distributed between the gearbox and the main pair, which not only increases off-road maneuverability, but also has a good effect on reliability. Plus, the teeth of the main pair are larger;
The bigger one is issued low revs engine;
The ability to take additional weight or a trailer, without much decrease in cross-country ability;
Less picky about gear oil;
Withstands lower / higher temperatures;
Better to eat uphill.

Minuses

Installation on a civilian UAZ will not be an easy matter;
You will have to adjust the pivots more often;
The noise when driving will be very loud, the selection of oil will only partially solve the problem;
Require service, if you score, then at around 50,000 km. will start to leak oil.

Pros of standard bridges

The weight. They weigh less, which reduces fuel consumption. On average, 1.5-2 liters per 100 km, compared to warriors;
Lighter weight also affects ride comfort (if the word comfort is generally applicable to UAZs);
Any repair is always cheaper and easier;
Better handling;
Less noise at speed (although a so-so advantage, sound insulation and UAZ are different things);
Possibility to additionally install differential locks. For warriors, of course, you can, too, only there will be more problems, and the price tag is much higher;
It is possible to install a spring suspension instead of a spring one;
Parts are easier to find;
Requires less oil.

Does it make sense to put them?

UAZ car is specific, for movement in city conditions, it does not fit from the word at all, another thing is fields and dirt, i.e. her native element. This is primarily an off-road vehicle, or a means of transportation for residents of villages and villages, where every autumn or after rain, four-wheel drive, remains the last connection with civilization (the example with hunters and fishermen will be omitted, because it is too obvious).

For civilian tasks, ordinary bridges are enough for the eyes, but for jeep lovers or farmers, extra cross-country ability will never hurt. Only there is a downside - the maximum speed will drop to 90 km. h., but who in their right mind would like to disperse UAZ in the field or on the highway?

Of course, you can put them if there is a need, but it is much easier and cheaper to immediately buy a UAZ on such bridges, the most the best option- with military conservation... It is inexpensive, and the condition will be better than that of analogues from AVITO and other automotive sites.

As for spare parts, for military options just go in and buy at the nearest store will not work, the easiest way out is to go for disassembly;
Gear ratios 5.38 versus 4.63 (guess which is better :));
Breaking the semi-shaft or CV joint, in warriors, is insanely difficult, but possible. This is a double-edged sword - reliability is several times higher, but if it breaks down, you will have to fork out well for repairs;
If Voyaka breaks down, it is sometimes cheaper to buy a new bridge assembly than to repair an old one, and in time it will be noticeably faster, although this fact will not stop those who like to hang out in the garage, constantly doing repairs;
But to put civilian bridges, instead of military, just won't work, it will require improvements and experience, although everything on the Internet has already been written a hundred times, the same Drive2 will help.

Many owners of real SUVs at some point want to improve the cross-country ability of their SUVs. The most common improvement is replacing "civilian" bridges with a military bridge. They are also called portal bridges. The main difference between the military bridge is the presence of the final drive gearbox.

Types of bridges and their differences and device

Reducer axles are a wheel beam that takes all the load when driving off-road. The axle is equipped with springs that soften the load, and it itself transmits torque to the wheels of the car.

There are civil and military bridges (they are also portal bridges). Craftsmen often make improved versions of military bridges for serious competition. Portal bridges, unlike civil ones, have a final drive.

If portal bridges were used only in military equipment, various jeep trials simply could not fully exist.

Portal bridges have a number of advantages. Some designs can lower ratio, by unloading the transmission when installed big wheels... The overhangs of the car are significantly increased. In normal use, overall flotation is increased by about 40 percent and traction is increased.

Tests carried out by specialists and individual enthusiasts have shown that the installation of final drives and military axles has more than just advantages. The maximum speed is reduced by 20 percent, and if large tires are installed, then by all 40. The greatest losses occur in the acceleration dynamics, up to 50 percent. However, since off-road enthusiasts are usually engaged in the installation of the wheel reducer, losses in speed and dynamics do not play a big role for them.

The scheme for improving cross-country ability without loss of dynamic parameters

If you install a wheelset reducer (final drive) on your own transmission, you can achieve improved cross-country ability without losing speed characteristics... In this option, there are three ways of action:

With your own hands, install military bridges obtained in a military unit or from friends;
Buy branded final drives and install them on your jeep;
Give your SUV to specialists who will do everything based on your requests and the size of your wallet.

Based on their capabilities, everyone can choose an option that suits them. It is worth noting that professionals carry out work on the installation of equipment only with their own hands, in order to be sure of the result.

Features of military portal bridges equipped with final drives

If you are determined to get a military bridge, you should know that you can get either used or from conservation. Before installing it, you will have to completely sort it out.

The final drive itself is designed to increase the drive wheel torque by means of a reduction gear. The civilian rear axle transmits torque only to the main pair of wheels, the military also distributes it between the gearboxes. For military purposes, the vehicle must have increased cross-country ability, which is the reason for this division into civilian and military versions.

How planetary bridges differ from civil ones

The clearance of the military bridge is much higher (30 for the military, 22 for the civilian);
The reliability of the military bridge is an order of magnitude higher (military equipment, after all, is a government order);
Increased traction, compared to the civilian version, the ability to tow heavy trailers;
Low cost, easy repair and maintenance.

These are the main benefits of using military bridges. Naturally, they also have many disadvantages:

A large number of details;
The total weight of the vehicle increases;
Spring suspension cannot be installed;
Fuel consumption is noticeably higher than that of the civilian version;
High noise effect.

Based on the pros and cons, we can conclude that if the SUV is used strictly for its intended purpose, then all the minuses do not play a big role and are compensated by the pluses. If the main task of the car is city driving, then the installation of military bridges cannot be called expedient.

How the rear axle gears are adjusted

Reducer rear axle requires constant maintenance and adjustment. If this procedure is neglected, time-consuming repairs may soon be necessary. If, when driving at low speeds, an incomprehensible noise is heard, then the unit needs adjustment. This usually happens if the vehicle is frequently overloaded by towing a trailer that is too heavy.

Adjustment tools:

Calipers;
Specialized rings for adjustments;
Torque wrench;
Tight and strong thread;
Files and sandpaper.

Before the adjustment procedure, you should disassemble the rear axle and thoroughly wash all parts from dirt. Often under a layer of dust there are various damage, due to which the node may not work correctly. Usually, problems in the operation of the rear axle are created by various defects in the gears. When grinding the edges of the teeth of gears, if they are chipped and cracked, you need to urgently replace them with new ones. If the teeth are intact, but have become very dull, they should also be replaced with new ones. When the damage is minimal, you can try to level them with a file, followed by sanding and sanding with sandpaper with different grain sizes. After grinding, the gears in thickness and size should be close to new condition. Often bringing a part in a visually excellent form, many forget about the number of millimeters of metal cut off. It is advisable to replace the part with a new one.

When assembling the rear axle, the main thing is to remember to install new parts. When installing a new drive gear, there may be a size mismatch with the adjusting ring, since there will be a difference between the new and the old part due to wear. To prevent this situation, it is better to replace the regulating ring as well. If this is not done, the functioning of the rear axle may be impaired. Before installation new part all corners, openings and bends must be thoroughly cleaned.

Before installing the bearings in the crankcase, you should check each bearing for defects, then install them and other parts and tighten the nuts carefully. A domestic manufacturer often sins with defects in the production of parts. There is no need to explain what will happen if you install a defective bearing, so when buying, you need to carefully inspect every detail, especially the bearing.

When setting the crankcase line, a level is needed. The crankcase line must be strictly horizontal. To determine the gap between the parts, you need a feeler gauge. To obtain the dimensions of the adjusting ring, you need to find the difference between the deflection of the gear and the size of the gap. By calculating this, you will get the correct size of the adjusting ring.

Using a piece of plain pipe, you need to install the adjusting ring on the shaft. To determine the level of scrolling of the gear shaft, you need to tie a thread to the flange, thus tying a dynamometer. The indicator should be equal to 6.9 kgf. If it is lower, tighten the nut, if higher, you will have to replace the spacer sleeve. Install the crankcase into the differential housing and eliminate all gaps to 0.1 millimeter. To do this, tighten the nuts of the driven gear.

Remember to install the lock plates after fixing the nuts. This completes the rear axle adjustment.

DIY gear repair

Repairing a final drive is a rather complicated procedure, but if you have certain skills, it can be done independently. First you need to remove the housing of the side gearbox itself.

Disassembly of the final drive must take place in a vice. To disassemble the final drive, you need to unscrew the bolts holding the locking plates. Next, you should inspect each bearing for its further operation. If carried out overhaul, each bearing needs to be replaced.

When carrying out repairs, it is imperative to pour new oil into the final drives. All parts with chips, cracks and dents must be replaced. Shaft reducer bridge need to be checked for integrity. If hard operation is planned, it is better to put reinforced shafts. The oil seals also need to be inspected, the faulty oil seal must be changed.

The final drive assembly must be done using a vise. All elements of the assembly are assembled and installed in the final drive housing. The differential is put in place, the bearing caps are twisted. This completes the gearbox repair.

Military bridge tuning drawing

When installing military bridges on a vehicle, a drawing may be necessary because sometimes the dimensions do not match. This is especially true when installing various foreign military bridges. Their dimensions will definitely not fit your car without preliminary refinement. In this situation, a drawing is needed. For lovers of comfort, you can even find a drawing that allows you to install a spring suspension together with military bridges.

Replacement of wheel sets

Often standard wheels not enough to overcome serious off-road conditions. When installing a special rubber, the main pair is usually replaced as well. The characteristics of the standard wheelsets are designed specifically for the use of factory rubber. If you do not replace the wheelsets when switching to large wheels, they will not last long.

After replacing the wheelsets, their adjustment must be carried out, which consists in the accuracy of setting the gear backlash and the same tightening of the bolts. The adjustment will help to avoid quick wear of parts and other problems with wheelsets.

When installing military bridges, the main thing is to be aware of what you need a car for. If it was purchased exclusively for off-road, then the military bridge is the best solution. For a car that will often have to be operated on the highway, this is not the best choice.

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

Bridge with onboard gears

or military bridge UAZ

U-shaped drive axles with final drive - are installed on UAZ 3151 utility vehicles.

Installation of U-shaped driving axles (complete front and rear) on UAZ 31512 vehicles is possible with simultaneous installation cardan shafts vehicle UAZ 3151. Installation of U-shaped axles with final drive on a family of cars of a carriage layout requires significant improvements in the design of bridges, bipod, bipod thrust, car suspension, production of cardan shafts shortened by 10 mm, and cannot be performed outside the plant (without it recommendations)

rice. 1 Rear axle with final drive:

1 - cover of the main gear housing; 2- differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - a sealing gasket; 5.7 - drive gear bearings; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange; 10 - nut; 11 - dirt reflector; 12 - ring; 14 - spacer sleeve; 16 - main gear drive gear; 17 - satellite; 18 - right semiaxis; 19 - side gear housing; 20.29 - oil deflectors; 21 - semi-axle bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - sealing gasket of the side gear housing; 24 - side gear housing cover; 25 - bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 - wheel bolt; 31 - pin; 32 - hub bearing; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - lock washer; 35- leading flange; 36 - nut of hub bearings; 37 - lock washer; 38 - bushing; 39 - the driven shaft of the side gear; 43 - driven shaft bearing; 44 - driven gear wheel of the side gear; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - drain plugs; 47 - leading gear wheel of the side gear; 48 - right cup of the satellite box; 51 - main gear case; 52 - washer of the semi-axle gear; 53 - semi-axle gear; 54 - axis of satellites; 55 - driven gear wheel of the main transfer; 56 - left cup of the satellite box; 57 - left semi-axis

Axles with final drives (Fig. 1 and 2) are installed as a set (front and rear) on modifications of cars of the UAZ-31512 family with simultaneous replacement of the rear propeller shaft.

Maintenance of axles with final drives differs from the above described technology of changing the grease in the hinges steering knuckles front axles, checking and changing the oil in the final drive housings, as well as adjusting the position of the driving gear 16 of the main drive and its bearings 5 and 7 (see Fig. 1).
After adjusting the lateral clearance, it is necessary to check the meshing of the final drive gears by the contact patch, as indicated in the section -Assembling and adjusting the rear axle assemblies- (p. 73).
After running 50,000 km at the next maintenance it is recommended to tighten the bolts of the final drive driven gear 44 and the final drive driven gear 55, as well as the mounting bolts of the removable bearing housing 25 of the final drive.
The position of the gear 16 is adjusted by selecting the adjusting ring 15 of the required thickness. When replacing the main gears and the large tapered bearing or only the main gears, measure the installation height of the large tapered bearing 5 under axial load 2-2.5 kN (200-250 kgf) and if it is less than 32.95 mm by some amount, then increase the thickness of the adjusting ring by the same amount compared to that which was installed in the axle housing. When replacing only the large tapered bearing 5, so as not to disturb the position of the gear, measure the mounting height of the old and new bearings and, if the new bearing has a higher mounting height than the old one, then reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring 15, and if it is less, then increase it by difference in bearing heights.
Adjust the preload in bearings 5 and 7 by selecting the adjusting ring 6 and tightening the nut 10. If this cannot be done, then change the number of shims 13 and again by selecting the ring and tightening the nut, achieve such a preload of the bearings so that there is no axial movement of the gear, and the gear rotates without great effort. Check with a dynamometer with the rubber cuff removed 8. With correct adjustment, at the moment of turning the gear through the hole in the flange, the dynamometer should show 10-20 N (1-2 kgf) for worn-in bearings and 25-35 N (2.5-3.5 kgf ) for new ones.

Change the grease in the steering knuckle joints in the following order:

Rice. 2Rotary fist front axle with final drive:

a - signal groove; I - right steering knuckle; II - left steering knuckle; III - wheel cut-off clutch (for variant, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - oil seal; 2 - ball bearing; 3 - steering knuckle hinge; 4 - gasket; 5 - grease nipple; 6 - kingpin; 7 - pad; 8 - steering knuckle body; 9 - king pin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 - driven shaft of side gear; 12 - hub; 13 - leading flange; 14 - coupling; 15 - ball of the retainer; 16 - protective cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - pin; 19 - lock nut; 20.23 - support washers; 21 - leading gear wheel of the side gear; 22 - locking pin; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - thrust washer; 26 - axle shaft casing; 27 - bolt of rotation limitation; 28 - stop-limiter for wheel rotation; 29 - steering knuckle lever

1. Disconnect the flexible hose from the wheel cylinder of the brake mechanism and the ends of the steering rods from the levers, unscrew the bolts securing the clips of the o-rings of the ball joint and slide the clips with O-rings onto the neck of the ball joint (Fig. 2).
2. Unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the lever or the bolts securing the upper pad of the king pin and remove the lever or pad and shims.
3. Unscrew the bolts securing the bottom pad, remove the pad with adjusting shims.

Rice. 3 Pin puller

4. Using a puller (see Fig. 3), remove the pivots from the steering knuckle housing and remove the housing assembly with the ball joint hinge.
5. Carefully, without moving apart the forks (so that the balls do not jump out), remove the joint assembly with bearings and gear from the steering knuckle housing. Do not remove the hinge from the steering knuckle housing and disassemble it without special need.
6. Remove the used grease from the ball joint, joint and housing, rinse thoroughly with kerosene and add fresh grease.
Perform assembly in the reverse order to disassembly, observing the requirements for adjusting the pins. When installing the flexible hose of the brake drive, do not allow it to be twisted. After assembly, bleed the brake drive system (see section "Service brake system").

Disassemble the final drive in the following order:

1. After removing the hub with the brake drum (see the section "Removing, disassembling and assembling the hubs"), unscrew the clutch of the brake drive pipeline (on the front - a tee of connecting pipes and a flexible hose) from the wheel cylinder on the rear brake shield, unscrew the fastening stud nuts trunnions and remove the spring washers, oil deflector, trunnion, trunnion gasket, spring washer, brake assembly and brake shield gaskets.
2. Unscrew the nut 45 (see Fig. 1) fastening the bearing on the driven shaft of the final drive, unscrew the bolts securing the cover of the final drive housing, remove the cover assembly with the shaft, remove the cover gasket and press out the shaft from the cover.
In contrast to the left-hand final drive, the shaft 39 and nut 45 of the right gear have a left-hand thread. A nut with a left-hand thread is marked with an annular groove, and the shaft is marked with a blind hole with a diameter of 3 mm at the end face of the spline end.
3. Remove the bolts securing the driven gear and remove the gear from shaft 39.
4. Mark the position of the roller bearing housing 25 on the lug of the final drive housing of the rear axle, unscrew the housing fastening bolts, remove the bearing housing. Do not remove the front axle final drive roller bearing housing without special need. (For the further procedure for disassembling the final drive of the front axle, see above in the description of changing the lubricant in the joints of the steering knuckles.) Remove the circlip 22 of the ball bearing 21, the axle shaft 18 and the oil deflector 20 from the final drive housing.
5. Remove the roller bearing retaining ring 26, roller bearing 25, drive gear 47 and ball bearing from the axle shaft.

Axles with final drives (Fig. 3.106 and 3.107) are installed as a set (front and rear) on modifications of cars of the UAZ-31512 family with simultaneous replacement of the rear propeller shaft.

Rice. 3.106. Rear axle with final drive:
1 - cover of the main gear housing; 2 - differential bearing; 3,13,49 - shims; 4 - a sealing gasket; 5,7 - drive gear bearings; 6.15 - adjusting rings; 8.42 - cuffs; 9 - flange; 10 - nut; 11 - dirt reflector; 12 - ring; 14 - spacer sleeve; 16 - leading gear wheel of the main transfer; 17 - satellite; 18 - right semiaxis; 19 - side gear housing; 20.29 - oil deflectors; 21 - semi-axle bearing; 22,26,40 - retaining rings; 23 - sealing gasket of the side gear housing; 24 - side gear housing cover; 25 - bearing; 27 - brake shield; 28 - brake drum; 30 - wheel bolt; 31 - pin; 32 - hub bearing; 33.41 - gaskets; 34 - lock washer; 35 - leading flange; 36 - nut of hub bearings; 37 - lock washer; 38 - bushing; 39 - driven shaft onboard transmission; 43 - driven shaft bearing; 44 - driven gear wheel of the side gear; 45 - special nut; 46.50 - drain plugs; 47 - leading gear wheel of the side gear; 48 - right cup of the satellite box; 51 - main gear housing; 52 - washer of the semi-axle gear; 53 - semi-axle gear; 54 - axis of satellites; 55 - driven gear wheel of the main transfer; 56 - left cup of the satellite box; 57 - left semi-axis

Maintenance

Maintenance of axles with final drives differs from the one described above by the technology of changing the grease in the joints of the steering knuckles of the front axles, checking and replacing the oil in the housings of the final drives, as well as adjusting the position of the driving gear 16 of the main gear and its bearings 5 and 7 (see Fig. 3.106 ).

After adjusting the side play, it is necessary to check the engagement of the final drive gears by the contact patch, as indicated in the section "Assembling and adjusting the rear axle assemblies" (p. 73).

After a run of 50,000 km, during the next maintenance, it is recommended to tighten the bolts of the final drive gear 44 and the final drive gear 55, as well as the bolts of the removable final drive bearing housing 25.

The position of the gear 16 is adjusted by selecting the adjusting ring 15 of the required thickness. When replacing the main gears and the large tapered bearing or only the main gears, measure the mounting height of the large tapered bearing 5 under an axial load of 2–2.5 kN (200–250 kgf) and, if it is less than 32.95 mm by some value, then increase the thickness of the adjusting ring by the same amount compared to that which was installed in the axle housing. When replacing only the large tapered bearing 5, so as not to disturb the position of the gear, measure the mounting height of the old and new bearings and, if the new bearing has a higher mounting height than the old one, then reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring 15, and if it is less, then increase it by difference in bearing heights.

Adjust the preload in bearings 5 and 7 by selecting the adjusting ring 6 and tightening the nut 10. If this cannot be done, then change the number of shims 13 and again by selecting the ring and tightening the nut, achieve such a preload of the bearings so that there is no axial movement of the gear, and the gear rotates without great effort. Check with a dynamometer with the rubber cuff removed 8. With correct adjustment, at the moment of turning the gear by the hole in the flange, the dynamometer should show 10-20 N (1-2 kgf) for worn-in bearings and 25-35 N (2.5-3.5 kgf ) for new ones.

Rice. 3.107. Front axle steering knuckle with final drive:
a - signal groove; I - right steering knuckle; II - left steering knuckle; III - wheel cut-off clutch (for variant, see Fig. 180, IV); 1 - oil seal; 2 - ball bearing; 3 - steering knuckle joint; 4 - gasket; 5 - grease nipple; 6 - kingpin; 7 - pad; 8 - steering knuckle body; 9 - king pin bushing; 10 - bearing; 11 - the driven shaft of the side gear; 12 - hub; 13 - leading flange; 14 - clutch; 15 - retainer ball; 16 - protective cap; 17 - coupling bolt; 18 - pin; 19 - lock nut; 20.23 - support washers; 21 - the leading gear wheel of the side gear; 22 - locking pin; 24 - rubber sealing ring; 25 - thrust washer; 26 - axle shaft casing; 27 - bolt of rotation limitation; 28 - stop-limiter for wheel rotation; 29 - steering knuckle lever

Change grease in the joints of the steering knuckles, proceed in the following order:

1. Disconnect the flexible hose from the wheel cylinder of the brake mechanism and the tips of the steering rods from the levers, unscrew the bolts securing the clips of the o-rings of the ball joint and slide the clips with O-rings onto the neck of the ball joint (Fig. 3.107).

2. Unscrew the nuts of the studs securing the lever or the bolts of the upper pivot pad and remove the lever or pad and shims.

3. Unscrew the bolts securing the bottom pad, remove the pad with adjusting shims.

4. Using a puller (see Fig. 3.102), remove the pivots from the steering knuckle housing and remove the housing assembly with the ball joint hinge.

5. Carefully, without moving apart the forks (so that the balls do not jump out), remove the joint assembly with bearings and gear from the steering knuckle housing. Do not remove the hinge from the steering knuckle housing and disassemble it without special need.

6. Remove the used grease from the ball joint, joint and housing, rinse thoroughly with kerosene and add fresh grease.

Rice. 3.102. Pin puller

Perform assembly in the reverse order to disassembly, observing the requirements for adjusting the pins. When installing the flexible hose of the brake drive, do not allow it to be twisted. After assembly, bleed the brake drive system (see section "Service brake system").

Disassemble the final drive in the following order:

2. Unscrew the nut 45 (see Fig. 3.106) fastening the bearing on the driven shaft of the final drive, unscrew the bolts securing the cover of the final drive housing, remove the cover assembly with the shaft, remove the cover gasket and press out the shaft from the cover. In contrast to the left-hand final drive, the shaft 39 and nut 45 of the right gear have a left-hand thread. A nut with a left-hand thread is marked with an annular groove, and the shaft is marked with a blind hole with a diameter of 3 mm at the end face of the spline end.

3. Remove the bolts securing the driven gear and remove the gear from shaft 39.

4. Mark the position of the roller bearing housing 25 on the lug of the final drive housing of the rear axle, unscrew the housing fastening bolts, remove the bearing housing. Do not remove the front axle final drive roller bearing housing without special need. (For the further procedure for disassembling the final drive of the front axle, see above in the description of changing the lubricant in the joints of the steering knuckles.) Remove the circlip 22 of the ball bearing 21, the axle shaft 18 and the oil deflector 20 from the final drive housing.

5. Remove the roller bearing retaining ring 26, roller bearing 25, drive gear 47 and ball bearing from the axle shaft.

Collect airborne transmission in the reverse order to disassembly, taking into account the following: bearing nut 45 (Fig. 3.106) on the driven shaft of the front and rear final drives, as well as nut 19 (see Fig. 3.107) fastening the bearing and gear on the drive shaft of the front final drive after unscrew the tightening into the groove of the shaft, and squeeze the rings 26 for locking the bearings on the axle shafts of the rear final drives after installation in the groove; tighten the bolts of the wheel (driven gear) and the removable bearing housing to 64–78 N · m (6.5–8.0 kgf · m), the bolts of the crankcase cover - 35–39 N · m (3.6–4, 0 kgf m).

When repairing axles with final drives, use the data in the tables