Outwardly, the usual "Niva", as soon as it drives closer - you understand that something is wrong with it. The car runs silently. Everything is explained as soon as the driver opens the hood - there is no equipment usual for a car with an internal combustion engine under it.
“This battery itself, or a part of it - the other part is in the trunk, while the trunk is completely free,” explains Yuri Logvin, showing the “insides” of a homemade electric car. - This is a heater tank, the car is equipped with a hydraulic heater, like in the Zaporozhets, only there the air heats up, and here the antifreeze is heated and the antifreeze is already heating the interior. In this case, there is a battery from Nissan Leaf, they have already appeared in Ukraine and, in principle, you can buy a "used" one for quite reasonable money. "
Yuri notes that he chose this type of battery, based on practical considerations: “A lead battery runs in an electric car for a maximum of two to three years - many of our colleagues have already tested this in practice. And this one should go for ten years, at least. I have a second Slavuta car, so I have been driving it for the third year now and have not noticed any decrease in capacity. "
Instead of gasoline, "Niva" is powered by electricity, and accordingly there is no fuel tank in it. “If you wish, you can make a three-phase connector, then you can take not 3 kW, but about 9 - 10 kW,” the Kharkiv resident shows the plug for recharging under the former hatch fuel tank... - That is, if this is a taxi - then, probably, it makes sense to "bother" with all this. For domestic use - the majority have a maximum input of about 5 kW. "
“The maximum speed is about 120 km / h, that is, the faster you go, the faster you spend. If you go at a speed of 60 km / h, then you can drive about 110 km, if you go 120 km / h, then I think the charge will be enough for about 70 kilometers, - he talks about technical characteristics electric car Ukrainian innovator. - The machine brakes recuperatively - there is no energy loss, the pads do not heat up. You can set it up in different ways: now the "comfortable" mode is set, in which the braking is not very strong, when the car stops too quickly, the people in the back start to get nervous. "
The air temperature also affects the operation of an electric vehicle, explains Yuri Logvin. The power reserve is reduced, but not so much. This is due to the fact that the resistance in the battery increases slightly. In winter, you can ride quite comfortably with a good stove. “On small climbs, the car accelerates quite confidently,” says Yuri, “though the sound is like that of a helicopter or an airplane, I don’t know. It is a good plus that the wheels are big - on Kharkiv roads you do not feel these “potholes” as well and “climbs” on the curbs quite confidently ”.
In the middle of the cabin, everything is in place, but this is at first glance: additional indicators are noticed on the torpedo, which show the voltage in the system, the temperature of the engine and the level of gasoline in the heater tank. There are also controls for controlling the stove. Everything else is standard elements dashboard"Niva".
This is not the first one that was assembled by Yuri Logvin with his own hands. According to him, he will no longer change to a gasoline car. Re-equipment of a conventional car for an electric one will cost 7-10 thousand euros. In addition to money for engineering works, it will take several thousand more hryvnias to register the re-equipped car with the traffic police. “It costs approximately 3 thousand hryvnias to register the replacement of the unit. Everything is quite official, that is, an abstract is drawn up in the Kiev institute, and it is confirmed on the basis of this, here in the traffic police it can be registered, ”says the Kharkiv resident.
Video: Idea Factory: This is how it is - a do-it-yourself electric car!
Building an electric car is a great alternative to a car with gasoline engine... Modern technologies allow us to find new ways to solve the problems associated with the cost of automobile fuel.
Spending money only on the constituent elements of the future electric car, in the future, you can perfectly save on fuel.
In addition, electric motors are environmentally friendly, unlike conventional engines, which emit carbon dioxide when refining gasoline.
It is worth noting that almost every car company already produces electric cars or hybrid cars. For example, from the company of the same name.
But the price of such environmentally friendly vehicles remains inaccessible to many motorists, so the issue of creating an electric car with their own hands, especially for the CIS countries, is still very relevant.
We create an electric car
To create an electric car with your own hands, you need to purchase:
- Basic model car;
- Electrical engine;
- Batteries, cases for them and charging;
- Gas electric pedal, as well as voltage regulator and synchronizers.
Basic car model
The base car model means any car that will be taken as a basis for the manufacture of an electric vehicle.
Since the basis of any electric car is its lightness, which is directly proportional to the size, the material from which it is made, it is advisable to take small cars as a basis.
Agree, it will be difficult from Toyota Land Cruiser prado make an electric car.
Well suited for such purposes domestic VAZ–Y, famous Cossacks, Slavuta, OKA.
From foreign Fiat 126 and other small cars up to 2000 release.
You can make your own original body, but the complexity of the work and their high cost repels many from this idea.
Electric motor
The electric motor is chosen depending on the size of the car and the option for connecting it to the car.
If you connect it to a gearbox, then the electric motor, even with a small power (5 - 7 K watts), will be able to move the car.
When connected via a drive axle, a more powerful electric motor is needed. And the higher the overall weight of the car, the more power the future motor should be.
An electric motor with a minimum power installed on a small machine has a speed limit of 75-80 km / h (provided that the motor is directly connected to the gearbox).
By purchasing an electric motor with a higher power, you do not need to worry about additional energy consumption. These costs do not depend in any way on the mileage traveled and the power of the electric motor.
Battery
When choosing a battery, it is better to focus on energy carriers with lithium.
They can be used without recharging for 5 hours of continuous driving at a maximum speed of 80 km / h.
The total service life of such batteries is on average 5 years. Lithium energy is an expensive option.
Lead-acid batteries can be chosen as a less expensive alternative. Such energy carriers have a shorter service life (on average 1-2 years) and are discharged after an hour of intensive traffic.
In order for the batteries not to wear out so quickly, it is necessary to select them correctly in the appropriate volume.
Energy carriers of small size fail earlier, as they wear out strongly, being completely discharged in the process of movement. Therefore, it is better to purchase one large battery with an increased resource.
Heating system
If the owner of an electric car expects to use it in the cold season, it is necessary to consider the heating system.
Heating a car with the electric power of the engine is very costly. In this case, the battery will not charge even for one trip.
Therefore, it is better to install a gasoline heater or a seat heating system. For all other electrical equipment in the cabin, it is better to purchase a separate energy carrier.
Power regulator
A very important part in an electric car is the power regulator, which is needed to adjust the traction of the electric motor.
The most reliable regulators are American-made. Due to limited finances, you can purchase its Chinese counterpart.
Regulators are selected depending on the power of the current. For everyday driving, a standard 150 volt regulator will do.
Also, in the electric car, in place of the removed generator, you need to mount a converter that performs similar functions.
Electric cars for children
Of course, you can make an electric car for your child, but is it worth the effort? After all, now they are already sold in full
So let's take a step-by-step look at the work done.
The guys from Lithuania took the old Vaz-2106, even demonstrated that it works - they installed the battery and started the engine internal combustion.
Most likely the guys used the prototype as an example -.
In principle, a pretty good choice of car, the VAZ 2106 is a fairly light car. At the same time, the car is not the smallest in terms of body size with large overhangs relative to the axle of the wheels in front and behind. Vaz has quite a lot of space in the engine compartment and in the trunk - it was there that the masters installed a whole battery of batteries.
Let's go back to the engine. As far as can be judged from the video, they decided to use an engine for the electric drive direct current with a power of 12 kW, most likely with a supply voltage of 110 volts. It looks like it can be assumed that similar engines are used in electric cars or industrial devices.
12 kW in terms of approximately 17 hp - which most likely does not promise great dynamics assembled car... However, I would like to note that the internal combustion engine has been dismantled from the car, which in fact makes up 80 percent of the car's weight. By itself Vaz-a body not heavy.
I would like to note one not very positive moment - the guys decided to use their own mechanical box gear vase. It is not known whether they had to alter some of the design features of the gearbox (say, remove the synchronizers), but the video clearly shows that the gears are shifted without connecting and disengaging the clutch.
A very bad moment was noticeable when one of the authors touches the gearbox shaft with his foot and cannot stop it in different gears. Then the neutral gear is switched on and the shaft turns anyway. At the same time, a rather distinct noise is heard and the shaft continues to rotate, although it can be stopped with a little effort.
This all suggests that the box is not in better condition it will most likely experience quite large losses. If we consider that the box itself will add the weight of the car, as well as its gear ratios in principle, they are not very relevant when using an electric motor (the torque at different speeds of the engine is almost the same) - it is possible to use a native box was not the best solution.
Although the box with the clutch block made the installation process much easier.
As far as we could understand from the video, the guys welded the clutch disc to the axis of the electric motor, and also welded a frame from the corner to mount the engine in the engine compartment.
From the same corner, a frame was assembled and welded with the help of which the clutch disc on the electric motor was connected to the clutch disc on the gearbox.
In the course of the entire video, it was not possible to understand whether the creators use this clutch for its intended purpose - most likely not.
After assembly, one of the authors demonstrates to us how the car drives into the garage by itself. Most likely, only a regular battery is used for recharge, and it is quite enough for the car to drive backwards into the garage by itself. You can even see sparks fly when the motor is directly connected to the battery.
Now, to control this mighty beast, it was necessary to assemble a strong power controller. The test was carried out from a voltage of 24 Volts (2 batteries of 12 Volts). The only thing that can be seen in the video is that most likely some kind of microcontroller and several field-effect transistors were used (there are only 3 of them in the 24 Volt circuit). Most likely, the field workers do not get very hot, since the authors of the video boldly touch the radiators with their hands when the electric motor is running.
The final videos demonstrate the work of the car, including on the track.
Here you can clearly see how the car looks after a complete assembly cycle. The authors installed 5 batteries in a rather large trunk. It is noticeable that a switch is immediately installed for emergency shutdown of all batteries from the trunk, perhaps a current fuse is installed nearby, or maybe it is an automatic relay that closes the contacts when the system starts. In general, there are any solutions that are, in fact, very important for the safe use of such powerful electrical systems, and at the same time, the functional essence of the process does not change.
Right there in the trunk, we can notice the absence of a spare wheel - a very correct solution to lighten the car.
Three more batteries are installed in the engine compartment. As we discussed above, there is a lot of space in the engine compartment of the Vaz, if, in addition to everything, we take into account that the engine used in this design is quite small compared to the internal combustion engine.
It will be very correct to decide on the arrangement of the batteries in the front and rear parts evenly, this will have a very positive effect on the weight distribution of the car, and therefore on its stability on the road - handling.
The new 96-volt control unit now looks quite different. It is assembled in a beautiful shiny aluminum case, and here thoughts creep in that it may even be factory-made. Immediately next to the control unit hid a standard accumulator battery, for food on-board network auto. Now, to charge it, you also need a voltage converter and it probably lies in the same box of the control unit.
Power accumulators are much larger than the standard one. It can be assumed that these are most likely serviced traction batteries (plugs are visible on each section, battery cell).
We also managed to find the official website of the SIAP battery manufacturer http://www.siap.pl/firma.html - the company deals specifically with the production of traction batteries, unfortunately what type is not described (most likely they are lead-acid).
Total battery capacity 110 Ah
Operating voltage 96 Volts
At the same time, as we remember, the motor power is 12000 watts
That is, each battery at a voltage of 12 volts produces 100 amperes per load - roughly equivalent to 1200 watts. Quite acceptable values, considering that such currents will flow only at full load. Most likely, the batteries do not even heat up with uniform movement and work in a stable mode.
In the video where the car stops and starts again at a traffic light, you can see that the current reaches 178 Amperes (178 A * 96 Volts = 17080 Watt). This is even more than the rated power of the engine. By the way, I would like to note that many motors can operate in short-term overload conditions up to double the rated power.
As a result, according to the assurances of the authors, the VAZ 2106 electric car can
- charged from a 220 Volt network within 7-8 hours
- travels 50-60 km on a full charge
- maximum speed 70 km / h (on the video you can only watch a demonstration of movement at a speed of 40 km / h)
Will someone be able to repeat the experience of such talented masters. Or maybe such cars will finally be put into production?
It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.
There is a secret that will make this set of objects become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:
1.5V battery or rechargeable battery.
Holder with contacts for the battery.
Magnet.
1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).
We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the electric motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently flat and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA battery.
Leaving 5 cm of wires free from each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.
Do not try to wind the coil very tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the coil to keep its shape better.
Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.
Then wrap the loose ends of the wire several times around the loops to maintain shape, making sure that the new bonding loops are exactly opposite each other.
The coil should look like this: 
Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. This is a secret because it is a sophisticated and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of motors may be surprised at the ability of a motor to work until they discover this subtlety.
Keeping the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. Use a sharp knife to remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.
Do the same for the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.
What is the meaning of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that electrical current can flow from one holder through the coil to the other holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.
Now you need to make a support for the coil. They are simply loops of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since, in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.
Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you have the part of our motor you want.
The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base because with the battery installed it will be heavy enough to keep the motor from shaking.
Put the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil ... 
If done correctly, the REEL WILL START SPINNING FAST! We hope that, as in our experiment, everything will work for you the first time.
If the motor still does not start, carefully check all electrical connections. Does the coil spin freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not enough, install additional magnets or trim the wire holders)?
When the motor starts up, the only thing you need to pay attention to is not to overheat the battery, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our simplest electric motor works. When an electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. An electromagnet acts like a normal magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.
Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the bare half of the protruding wire from the coil touches the bare holder. At this moment, a current begins to flow through the coil, a north pole appears at the coil, which is attracted to the south pole permanent magnet, and the south pole, which repels from the south pole of the permanent magnet.
We stripped the insulation off the top of the wire when the coil was vertical, so the poles of the electromagnet would point right and left. This means that the poles will move to align themselves with the up and down poles of the lying magnet. Therefore, the coil will turn towards the magnet. But at the same time, the insulated part of the coil wire will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will rotate by inertia further, again touches the non-insulated part of the holder and the process is repeated again and again until the current runs out in the batteries.
How can you make an electric motor turn faster?
One way is to add another magnet on top.
Bring the magnet while the coil is spinning, and one of two things happens: either the motor stops, or it starts spinning faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just do not forget to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump towards each other and destroy the fragile structure!
Another way is to plant small glass beads on the spool axis, which will reduce the friction of the coil against the holders and also better balance the electric motor.
There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.
Specifications:➤ Speed 50 km / h, cruising range 60-80 km km. ➤ Reverse implemented by the controller. ➤ Weight 725 from the original, after removing unnecessary nodes 575 kg. The final weight has not yet been determined. ➤ Motor sequential excitation 48 volts, 150 amperes, Altrax controller, 48 V, 450 A. ➤ Eight six-volt stationary batteries with a capacity of 180 A * h weighing 30 kg each from France. ➤ Converter from Taiwan. ➤ European charger, smart, impulse, 56 V, 45 A. ➤ Reverse contactors, England. The car was assembled in the garage by hand. The final decision was made to install a golfcar motor with 5 kW of rated power on the car. The voltage on board is still 48 volts. An end flange with a bearing for the rotor shaft was machined and installed on the motor. A transitional elastic coupling with slots at the ends and a transitional plate-washer are made. The motor is articulated with a box. Installed on the machine. The 220 volt input was made from the place of the fuel filler neck. Through the usual connector. Through the fuses, they brought it under the hood, where the 25 A charger is located (on the left). When using a full-fledged native gearbox and a 5-kilowatt electric motor, the acceleration dynamics is about the same as that of a donor with an internal combustion engine of 1000 cubes. There is no voltage drop. On the Altrax controller, the limitation of 70% of the starting and swing currents is calibrated. Gear shifting is easy, without jerks and side sounds. The brakes require some effort despite the curb weight of the car being 900 kg + 100 kg of the driver. In general, the dynamics and handling of the car are good. Before installing on a car, I changed the oil in the gearbox. Filled with an automatic machine with an SAE viscosity of 50 units. It is assumed that the efficiency of the Suzuki light transmission is at least 94-95%. The losses are insignificant. Much less than due to the operation of the electric motor outside the rated speed in case of refusal from the full transmission. The clutch is not installed on all cars. Extra node. Only reducing the dynamics of acceleration. The energy of the rotating rotor of the electric motor is negligible compared to the state of rest of the car. After a five-minute intensive drive, the controller on the radiator and the electric motor only slightly warmed up. As a positive result of moderate electrical loads. Through the use of the checkpoint. It is possible to further increase the acceleration dynamics by removing all restrictions from the controller. The electrical wiring is done with a 70 sq. Mm cable. The idea is wandering around to install 8 Minn-Kota batteries, 100 A * h, 12 V. They are close in size to the current ones. They will weigh 185 kg instead of 240 kg. And the energy consumption will provide about 10 kWh. Now theoretically 9 kWh, in practice - less. They are not new. When placing four 105 Ah and four 120 Ah Deka batteries on the machine, you can get almost 11 kWh of energy with a battery weight of only 205 kg. That will provide a mileage on one charge of at least 100 km at a speed of 60 km / h. With a battery price of only 50,000. And a resource of up to 700 cycles at 60% discharge. On the brakes. Probably will be installed vacuum amplifier... There's a meaning. The kit is available. The interior will be heated. It is planned to stick a couple of dozen 25 W ceramic resistors on the stove radiator. Other options are possible. Calculations of the cost of components: 1. The cost of the motor was $ 500, the used controller was about the same. 2. In case of refusal from the checkpoint, an electric motor with Mcr at least 4 times larger would be required. And the corresponding converter to it. At a total price of at least $ 4,500. Weighing over 50 kg. There and then there would be a need to purchase more powerful batteries. Install a different contactor. And much more.
In conclusion, it is not superfluous to say that a cheap electric car that satisfies most of the requirements for a car is possible. We came to this conclusion from the following considerations: 1. An electric car in a budget version can travel up to 100 km per day. 2. The main route of most people living and working in the city from home to work and back does not exceed 50-60 kilometers, and this is the main daily route. And really, if you think about it, it becomes clear that this main route eats up a lot of money on gas, despite the fact that half of the travel time people are stuck in traffic. At the same time, gasoline continues to be consumed, and the electric car at this moment stands without consuming a single watt of energy. In addition, the property of batteries is such that when they are idle, they self-recharge a little. So that for an electric car it is beneficial in double. 3. An electric car can delight the owner with the low cost of operation, dynamism, the ability to move around in places where it is forbidden to find a smokehouse. Riding takes place in complete silence. 4. The process of electrification of transport is underway in the world. Car manufacturers are developing serial electric vehicles. In the coming years, electric vehicles will begin to roll off the conveyors in a massive flow.
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