Antifreeze for Chery tiggo T11
The table shows the type and color of the required antifreeze for pouring into Chery Tiggo T11,produced from 2012 to 2014.
| Year | Engine | Type of | Colour | Lifetime | Recommended manufacturers |
| 2012 | gasoline, diesel | G12 ++ | Red | from 5 to 7 years | Freecor QR, Freecor DSC, Glysantin G 40, FEBI |
| 2013 | gasoline, diesel | G12 ++ | Red | from 5 to 7 years | FEBI, VAG, Castrol Radicool Si OAT |
| 2014 | gasoline, diesel | G12 ++ | Red | from 5 to 7 years | Frostschutzmittel A, FEBI, VAG |
When buying, you need to know the shade - Colour and Type of antifreeze approved for the year of manufacture of your Tiggo T11. Select the manufacturer at your discretion. Do not forget - each type of fluid has its own service life. 
For example: for Chery Tiggo (T11 body) 2012 onwards, with a gasoline or diesel engine type, lobrid antifreeze class, type G12 ++ with shades of red is suitable. The approximate next replacement time is 7 years. If possible, check the selected fluid against the vehicle manufacturer's specifications and service intervals. It's important to know Each type of liquid has its own color. There are rare cases when a type is tinted with a different color.
The color of red antifreeze can be from purple to light pink (green and the same yellow principles). 
Mix liquid from different manufacturers - can if their types match the mixing conditions. G11 can be mixed with G11 analogues
G11 cannot be mixed with G12
G11 can be mixed G12 +
G11 can be mixed G12 ++
G11 can be mixed G13
G12 can be mixed with G12 analogues
G12 cannot be mixed with G11
G12 can be mixed with G12 +
G12 cannot be mixed with G12 ++
G12 cannot be mixed with G13
G12 +, G12 ++ and G13 can be mixed with each other
Mixing of Antifreeze with Antifreeze is not allowed. No way! Antifreeze and Antifreeze are very different in quality. Antifreeze is the trade name of the traditional type (TL) of the old-style coolant. At the end of its service life, the liquid completely discolours or becomes very dull. Before changing one type of fluid to another, flush the car's radiator with plain water.
Chery Tiggo 2005. Condensation in the engine
Condensate is a liquid that has changed from a gas to a liquid state. Water in the engine will inevitably damage it - it will start to rust. And in winter, at low temperatures, the water turns into ice, which makes the engine freeze. This can cause the cooling system pipes or the cylinder head to simply burst. Therefore, the appearance of condensation must be treated with due attention.
Condensation in the engine may appear as a deposit or a small amount of whitish foam forming on the oil filler cap. This is a sign that there is water in the system. Its presence can alert the motorist, since similar signs can signal certain problems. Excessive foam formation can indicate a damaged gasket in the cylinder head, or antifreeze entering the oil system. With such problems, the engine often overheats. But if there is not much foam, in such cases, as a rule, you should not worry.
Why does this foam form in the engine? It remains on the engine after it has cooled down and is the result of mixing oil with water. As a rule, after a short time after starting the engine, this plaque will be washed off from the valve cover, but it may remain on the oil filler neck. Does this indicate the need to change the oil? No. The amount of water in it is not so significant as to affect its quality.
In addition to the engine, condensation can form in other automotive systems... For example, in a muffler, it appears from a sharp temperature drop. If water appears in a gas tank, the first thought can often be that it got there with gasoline. But this is not the only reason - if you leave the car warm, condensation can also appear. Special fluids - water removers from the tank - will help to cope with this problem. They convert water in such a way that it turns into easily combustible compounds. It is enough to use them only once a year. Condensation may also appear in the body due to temperature changes. The most optimal solution in this situation would be to use special corrosion protection.
After the trip, the air in the crankcase cools down and its volume decreases. As a result, additional humid atmospheric air is sucked into the crankcase. As it cools further, moisture condenses on the walls of the engine.
Condensation build-up is facilitated by short trips when the engine does not have time to fully warm up.
WHY EMULSION APPEARS IN THE ENGINE
A white substance with a yellow tint on the dipstick, under the oil filler cap, indicates an admixture of foreign liquid in the engine oil. But where exactly does the emulsion come from in the engine and why does it happen mainly in cold weather? Let's consider the main reasons and methods for diagnosing malfunctions.
Emulsions are formed by two immiscible liquids. In most cases, one of the phases of the emulsion is water. In other words, when engine oil and water are mixed in the engine, you will find a white-yellow coating in the sump, dipstick, oil filler cap. There are only 2 reasons for the appearance of an emulsion in the engine:
Ingress of coolant into the oil, part of which is water. Antifreeze leakage manifests itself not only as an emulsion, but also as a decrease in the amount of coolant in the tank, an increase in the oil level in the sump;
In no case, do not continue to operate the car if you find an emulsion on the dipstick. In this state, the oil loses its lubricity. No less dangerous hit engine oil into the cooling system, because of which there is a high probability of engine overheating.
Condensation on the oil filler cap during winter.
WHITE FILLER COVER
Many drivers are seriously scared when they see a white emulsion on the inside of the lid. But in most cases, their fears are unjustified, since plaque occurs due to the peculiarities of the engine's operation in the frosty season.
The ingress of moisture into the ventilation system of crankcase gases is a natural process. But when the car is operated in the warm season, it manages to evaporate. With the onset of frost, moisture actively condenses on all cooled surfaces. When the engine warms up, this moisture completely evaporates from the surface of the heated parts. But since the oil filler cap does not always have time to heat up in cold weather, condensation accumulates on its inside. Water droplets, mixing with oil vapors, forms a yellow emulsion.
In other words, the main reason for the emulsion on the lid is the short runs of the car, during which all the engine parts do not have time to warm up thoroughly. That is why the owners most often notice such a raid in winter, late autumn and early spring. If you find emulsion on the oil filler cap, but the oil is in good condition on the dipstick, do not worry. It is enough to wipe the cover and periodically observe the condition of the oil in the engine.
To reduce the amount of emulsion, periodically drive your car more than a few kilometers from home to work and back. At the same time, we strongly advise against warming up the engine at idle for a long time.
HOW CAN ANTIFREEZE GET INTO THE OIL?
Breakdown of the cylinder head gasket. It is extremely rare that the cause of a malfunction is in a manufacturing defect of the gasket. Much more often, a loose fit of the cylinder head to the BC becomes a consequence of engine overheating. Weakening zones of the gasket appear due to deformation of the cylinder head, BC. It is in such places that antifreeze breaks out from the engine cooling jacket into the oil circulation channel. Also, the reason for the leakage of the mating surfaces can be the use of extended bolts, poor-quality milling / grinding of the mating surfaces, incorrect order and tightening torque of the cylinder head bolts.
Erosion of the cylinder block. Poor quality coolant can eat up cylinder blocks and cylinder heads. The consequence of this aggressive behavior is craters near the coolant circulation channels. If the erosion zone spreads in the direction of the oil circulation channel, then over time this will lead to a weakening of the cylinder head gasket and the formation of an emulsion in the engine.
Crack between the oil and antifreeze circulation channels. The cause of microcracks, through which mixing occurs when the engine heats up, is most often in engine overheating.
Heat exchanger gasket leaks. The unit is designed to effectively cool the oil and maintain the thermal balance of the engine. On some cars, this kind of oil cooler is a real headache. First of all, we are talking about Opel owners, in particular, car models with Z18XER engines. The problem of emulsion on the dipstick in the coolant reservoir on such motors is a common design defect in the heat exchanger.
HOW TO DETERMINE WHY ANTIFREEZE GETS INTO THE OIL?
It is quite rare that coolant and oil are mixed unilaterally. It is more likely that if you find emulsion on the dipstick and under the valve cover, you will find traces of oil in the expansion tank.
When looking for the cause of emulsion in the engine, we recommend going the path of least resistance, starting with readily available units. If an oil heat exchanger is installed on the car, inspect its housing for antifreeze leaks, oil fogging. These symptoms can serve indirect sign the fact that the cause of the malfunction is in the cooler.
Having found a white emulsion on the dipstick and antifreeze leak at the initial stage of the onset of the problem, you can limit yourself to flushing the engine by changing the oil n times. Even cheap mineral-based products can be used for such purposes. Even so, it is important to know how not to buy counterfeit products.
If the entire filling volume of the engine oil has turned into an emulsion, you cannot do without a complete disassembly of the engine. In this case, be sure to blow through the lubrication channels of the journals. crankshaft, piston group oil nozzles. The emulsion can clog the channels, which will lead to the unfortunate consequences of oil starvation.
DEFECTIVE BTS, BLOCK HEAD AND GASKET
After removing the cylinder head, carefully inspect the gasket and mating surfaces. The zones of weakening, which cause the mixing of oil and antifreeze, are usually clearly visible on the old gasket.
If the gasket is not satisfactory, most likely a microcrack has formed in the cylinder head or BC. In the article on replacing the cylinder block, we talked about how you can check the BC at home using kerosene. If possible, we recommend using professional help. As practice shows, only a check on a pressure test bench can reliably determine the fact that liners, oil circulation channels, coolant are leaking.
How to deal with emulsion?
Do not warm up the engine for a long time. idle... Firstly, at idle, the crankcase ventilation system is little involved, and secondly, warming up at idle is very slow. It is necessary to start driving after a short warm-up (as, incidentally, the operating manuals advise). If you suspect a breakdown of the cylinder head gasket and the ingress of gases or antifreeze into the oil system, then for this you should look at the radiator of a heated car for bubbles, as well as the crankcase of a heated engine for a significant emulsion in the crankcase. On the valve cover, the emulsion disappears when the engine has been running under load for a sufficient time - i.e. driving without frequent stops, for example, on a suburban highway at speeds above 80 km / h.
If an abundant emulsion is found on the oil dipstick, then this is an occasion to take care of the state of the engine in more detail, warm it up thoroughly and make diagnostics aimed at finding possible problems.
Also, an increased formation of emulsion will be if the crankcase ventilation system is clogged or the outlet of crankcase gases is not forced, but simply a hose hanging down from the engine cover. Attention: making artisanal changes to the crankcase ventilation system, namely hanging the hose into the atmosphere, significantly reduces the service life of the engine oil due to its contamination with both fuel vapors and water and deposits of tar and other fuel combustion products. Therefore, if you did it all the same, then you should shorten the interval between oil changes.
16.11.2016
According to the manufacturer's recommendations for this compact crossover, the coolant must be replaced after 10 thousand kilometers or a year of operation, whichever comes first. But it is recommended to check the coolant level at least once a week: it will not necessarily drop during natural evaporation. Emergency leaks are possible, which must be found out in a timely manner, otherwise you will have to buy expensive Chery Tigo spare parts. Today we will tell you how to change the coolant on a Chery Tiggo in garage conditions without resorting to the help of customer services. 
When replacing the coolant, you should remember about its toxicity and accuracy when working with it. Avoid contact with open skin, if it does get hit, be sure to rinse, drain the liquid carefully, into a prepared container and avoid getting it into the ground. And carry out all work with the coolant only on a cold engine.
It is recommended to use ethylene glycol-based coolants in Chery Tiggo cars, which are more simply called "antifreeze". At the same time, the color of the antifreeze does not matter at all: a different color speaks only of different dyes. And if you are going to change the liquid, then you need to pay attention not to its color, but to the type (composition), which must strictly correspond to the one recommended by the manufacturer. 
The concentration of ethylene glycol in the coolant depends on the climate zone in which the vehicle is used - to avoid freezing of the coolant in the cooling system in winter period: the higher the concentration, the lower the freezing point. But, at the same time, it is highly discouraged to use 100% ethylene glycol: it contains anti-corrosion additives, which require water to dissolve. If it does not exist, the additives will settle in the cooling system in the form of deposits, which will not improve, but worsen its ability to remove heat and may lead to engine overheating up to 149 degrees (the boiling point of ethylene glycols is much higher than that of water).
To obtain a solution of the required concentration (proportions are usually indicated by coolant manufacturers on the bottle packaging), use only distilled water.
Now, in fact, to replace the coolant. You need to stock up on a container for draining the old antifreeze (better - about 10 liters), a piece of hoses of a suitable diameter (for the drain pipe on the radiator) and new antifreeze. It is better to perform work on a flat surface.
- Remove the plug, turning it counterclockwise.
- Open up expansion tank,
unscrewing its cover.
- Open the drain valve on the radiator, substituting a container for the spent antifreeze under it. To do the work more accurately, a small piece of a hose of a suitable diameter can be put on the tap fitting. The tap itself is located in the lower part of the radiator, on the inside of it on the left (in the photo - a view on the removed radiator from the side facing the engine).
- Turn on the tap after draining the coolant by hand..
- If expansion tank dirty and with deposits, it can be removed and washed. After that, install and pour liquid for flushing the cooling system (you can use distilled water) through the neck of the radiator to the level of the steam pipe: you need to flush both the system itself and the Cherie Tigo radiator.
- Start the engine and let the engine warm up until the cooling fan operates, then turn off the engine, let it cool slightly and drain the water.
- If the water spilled out of the system is dirty, the flushing procedure must be repeated. Then fill in the prepared coolant through the radiator, and without closing its cap, start the engine.
- As it warms up, air will escape from the system, and the coolant level will drop. Add the level in the process of warming up to the norm until the air from the system ceases to come out. Usually, at the stage of filling the system, the fan will have time to turn on 5-6 times.
- After the air has stopped coming out, tighten the radiator cap, and add coolant to the expansion tank to the maximum value. After that, start the engine, let it warm up, turn it off and wait for it to cool.
- After the engine has cooled down, check the coolant level and, if necessary, top up to the maximum value.
In the process of warming up the engine, attention should be paid to the coolant temperature (on the gauge of the instrument panel) and the timely operation of the fan. 
If the temperature has reached its maximum, and the fan shows no signs of life, you need to find out the reason. To do this, turn on the heater in the cabin and check the temperature of the air that it supplies. If the air is warmed up, then the fan is not working. If the air is cold, a plug has formed in the cooling system. Open the radiator cap, let the engine run for 3-5 minutes and close the cap. And in order for the air to escape from the system better, you should regularly press on the radiator hoses during warming up with the radiator open to expel air locks.
After a few days of operation, after replacing the coolant in the system, check the level again. Top up if necessary. Also pay attention to the color of the coolant. If the liquid is sharply discolored, it means that ordinary blue was used for touch-up and you became the owner of a poor-quality coolant, which you need to urgently get rid of. In the same way, the liquid is not of high quality, if after a short period of time it has acquired a brown tint. This suggests that the manufacturer most likely "forgot" to add anti-corrosion additives to it, and such a liquid also needs to be changed urgently. A high-quality coolant practically does not change its color - it only darkens a little during long-term operation.
You might find it helpful:
Antifreeze is a brand of domestic antifreeze, developed back in 1971, which began to be produced in Togliatti during the Soviet era. There were only 2 types of domestic antifreeze: antifreeze-40 (blue) and antifreeze-65 (red).
Antifreezes are distinguished by the additives included in it:
- Traditional antifreeze;
- Hybrid antifreeze G-11(Hybrid, "hybrid coolants", HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology));
- Carboxylate antifreezes G-12, G-12 +("Carboxylate coolants", OAT (Organic Acid Technology));
- Lobrid antifreeze G-12 ++, G-13("Lobrid coolants" or "SOAT coolants").
If you need to add coolant to the Chery Tiggo (T11), it is safe to mix only one type of antifreeze, not the color. Color is just a dye. Water (even distilled) in Chery radiator It is forbidden to pour Tiggo (T11), because in the heat at a temperature of 100C, the water will boil, and scale will form. In cold weather, the water will freeze, the pipes and the Chery Tiggo (T11) radiator will simply burst.
Replace the coolant with Chery Tiggo (T11) for several reasons:
- Antifreeze expires- the concentration of inhibitors in it decreases, heat transfer decreases;
- The level of antifreeze from leaks has decreased- its level in Chery's expansion tank must remain constant. In this case, it can go through leaks in the joints, or cracks in the radiator, pipes.
- Decreased antifreeze level due to engine overheating- the antifreeze begins to boil, a safety valve opens in the plug of the expansion tank of the Cherie Tiggo cooling system (T11), discharging antifreeze vapors into the atmosphere.
- Cherie Tiggo (T11) cooling system parts are being replaced or engine repair;
Signs by which the state of the spent antifreeze in Chery Tiggo (T11) is determined:
- Test strip results;
- Measurement of antifreeze in Chery Tiggo (T11) with a refractometer or hydrometer;
- Change in color shade: for example, it was green, became rusty or yellow, as well as turbidity, fading;
- The presence of shavings, chips, scale, foam.
Flushing the Chery Tiggo (T11) cooling system, before pouring new antifreeze, completely removes the protective layer and remnants of the old antifreeze, this is necessary when changing from one type to another. To flush the Cherie Tiggo (T11) radiator, use a special product that is often diluted with water in accordance with the instructions. The finished flush is poured into the expansion tank of the Chery Tiggo (T11) radiator with the engine turned off. It must first be warmed up to operating temperature so that the thermostat opens and antifreeze begins to circulate in a large circle of the cooling system.
Then the engine is started, it is allowed to idle for 30 minutes. Discard the flushing liquid. The operation is repeated depending on the composition of the outflowing liquid. The flushing mixture can be used only in the first run, and in the following - distilled water. The time for replacing antifreeze with Chery Tiggo (T11) is from half an hour, with flushing - up to 1.5 hours.
You will need: coolant, funnel, clean rag.
Note
The manufacturer recommends using an ethylene glycol-based coolant (antifreeze).
Do not mix liquids of different colors and brands. If you need to add coolant, but you don’t know the brand of fluid filled into the system, replace all fluid in the cooling system. Use products from trusted manufacturers only. Remember that using poor quality coolant will result in costly engine repairs! Place the vehicle on a level surface before starting work.
Warnings
Check the coolant level on a cold engine only. Coolant is toxic, so take precautions when handling it.
Do not pour liquid into the tank above the “MAX” mark, as its volume will increase when the engine is running.
When starting the engine, the expansion tank cap must be tightly closed.
Useful Tips
Monitor the coolant level at all times. Its sharp decrease or increase should be a signal for an immediate check of the engine cooling system.
If the freshly poured antifreeze suddenly suddenly quickly changed color to brown, you were sold a fake, in which you "forgot" to add corrosion inhibitors. Change the fluid as soon as possible before it has time to corrode the cooling system.
The expansion tank is installed in the engine compartment on the right side.
1. The coolant level should be between the "MAX" and "MIN" marks on the wall of the expansion tank
2. To add fluid, remove the expansion tank cap ...
Notes (edit)
If the expansion tank is completely empty, remove the radiator cap by turning it 90 ° counterclockwise and add fluid to the radiator up to the edge of the radiator neck. Then close the radiator with a plug and add fluid to the expansion tank to the required level.
4. Close the cap on the expansion tank.
