We restore the performance of UAZ vehicles. How to correctly read UAZ Patriot error codes, decoding the values ​​Ignition misfires at idle

The functioning of the UAZ Patriot car is provided by fuel system, which is distributed injection. Thanks to the distributed injection system, not only fuel is supplied to the engine, but also the fuel is cleaned, which is an important point. Let's pay attention to the question of what are the main types of breakdowns typical for an SUV, and how to deal with them.

Features of the fuel system

The distributed injection system has come to replace the old carburetors. The peculiarity of such a system is that the mixture is moved directly to each cylinder of the vehicle. This injection takes place through the use of special nozzles. Thanks to the use of such a system, the possibility of reducing the toxicity of the exhaust gases increases. This improves driving performance car.

On a new car, you do not have to think about any malfunctions in the fuel mixture supply system. But after a certain mileage, problems and breakdowns may occur. this mechanism... The reasons for the failure of the fuel injection system are very diverse: from the use of low-quality fuel to a blockage of the line.

Malfunction of the power circuit

The most common causes of a fuel system malfunction on an Ulyanovsk-made SUV:

1. Clogged filter element.
2. Pump failure or reduced performance.
3. Leakage of the system.
4. The presence of water impurities in the tank.
5. Clogged line.

Among all the above reasons for the malfunction of the circuit in question, it is important to highlight leaks. Why is leakage an important cause of a malfunction? If the fuel system has been depressurized, there is a high likelihood of a fire hazard.

The reasons for leakage are the most common:

• mechanical damage;
• the use of low-quality types of gasoline or diesel fuel;
• loosening of connections;
• untimely passage of MOT.

It is possible to determine the malfunctioning of the fuel supply device by external signs, such as:

• inability to start the engine;
• instability of idling;
• decrease in power while driving.

There are a lot of signs indicating a malfunction of the fuel supply, so it is important to determine the cause and eliminate the breakdown in a timely manner. Depressurization of the power supply circuit at the UAZ Patriot is determined by the smell of gasoline in the cabin or the presence of fuel leaks under the car. If the chain has traces of depressurization, then it is not recommended to operate the car until the malfunction is eliminated.

Let's consider in more detail the main types of malfunctioning and the features by which these failures of the fuel supply device on the Patriot can be identified:

1. Problems with the functioning of the pump are characterized by the following main symptoms:
   1. difficulty starting the engine (the engine does not start or starts with great difficulty);
   2. problems with the development of the full power of the car.
      The problem can be resolved by removing the pump and determining the cause of the reduced functionality. The pump may need to be replaced.
2. The filter of the UAZ Patriot fuel chain is clogged:
   1. various interruptions in the functioning of the motor are detected in all operating modes;
   2. failure of the motor to develop maximum power.
      The filter must be replaced after clogging. How long it takes to replace the filter on an SUV depends on the quality of the fuel being refueled.
3. Clogged or damaged fuel line. Such a breakdown can be determined by the following signs:
   1. fuel consumption increases;
   2. problems with starting the motor;
   3. violation of engine idle operation.
      Determining the causes of the breakdown is problematic on your own, so it is better to use the help of a wizard.
4. Depressurization of the fuel supply circuit. The symptoms of this malfunction are as follows:
   1. the presence of gasoline vapors in the car;
   2. the presence of smudges near fuel cells;
   3. violation of idling.

In the case when you were lucky enough to fill the tank with fuel with water impurities, then signs of this phenomenon will appear by the appearance of jerks during acceleration to low revs... The situation can be corrected by draining the fuel, flushing the tank and refueling with quality material.

Troubleshooting

Description of diagnostics electronic systems control and fault codes are given in Chapter Engine electrical systems.

This section offers the most simple circuit finding out the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in the components and systems of the car. Failures and their possible causes are divided into groups based on their relation to certain components or systems of the car, such as the engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Remember that successful completion of the troubleshooting depends on the integrity of the body of good knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to problem investigation. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss the obvious facts - everyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on overnight.

Finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the electrical equipment failure has occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse has blown several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - try to find out the reason for the failure. Remember that the failure of a secondary component may be a sign of malfunctioning of a more important unit or the whole system.

Engine

Mandatory conditions for the launch of any gasoline engine are the serviceability of the supply of the air-fuel mixture to the cylinders and the timely sparking on the spark plugs.

First of all, you should make sure that the fuel supply is in good condition.

To determine if a spark is being generated, remove the spark plugs, insert them into the tips, and apply them individually to the ground. When doing this, do not hold the wire or the tip with your hands - use insulated pliers. Ask an assistant to start the engine. If there is no spark, try to determine the cause of the failure.

Engine does not crank when trying to start

1. Discharged or defective battery. If the wire ends are not oxidized and are securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, then turn on the headlights and / or windshield wipers - if they do not function, the battery is discharged.
2. Transmission inaccurately set to "P" position.
3. The starter gear is wedged in the ring gear of the drive disc.
4. Defective starter traction relay.
5. Starter defective.
6. Defective ignition switch.

Engine cranks but won't start

1. Startup is not correct. Proceed in accordance with Section Starting the engine and driving.
2. The engine immobilizer is faulty or not disabled.
3. Defective fuel pump safety switch.
4. The fuel tank is empty, or
5. Heavily soiled air filter... There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control systems.
6. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly).
7. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire lugs are loose.
8. The fuel pump is faulty, or its relay is damaged - audibly check that the pump is turned on when the ignition is turned on.
9. The ignition system components are damaged or excessively wet.
10. Spark plugs are worn out or defective, or the plug gap is incorrectly set.
11. Open circuit in the starting system.
12. The ignition coil wiring is cut or disconnected, or the wires at the coil terminals are loose or loose.
13. The fuse of the engine control unit is damaged, any of the sensors of the engine control system is faulty.
14. Low compression pressure.

The starter functions without cranking the engine

1. Starter gear jammed.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

see also A cold engine starts poorly, runs unstable.

1. Low battery level.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

see also A warm engine does not start well, it works unstable.

1. Air filter clogged.
2. Defective power system components or electrical equipment.
3. Fuel is not supplied to the injectors.
4. Insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult

1. Worn or damaged teeth of a gear wheel of a starter or a rim of a drive disk.
2. Lost or insufficiently tightened starter mounting bolts.

The engine starts, but immediately stalls

1. Engine immobilizer defective.
2. The wiring is faulty, or the wires are loose at the terminals of the ignition coil or generator.
3. Defective power system components or electrical equipment.
4. The basic settings of the engine control unit (ECM) are violated.
5. There is damage to the exhaust and emission control system.

The stability of the engine is disturbed by idle

1. Loss of rarefaction takes place. Make sure that the fasteners are tightened securely, check the fact and quality of fastening on their fittings on the inlet pipe of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose - a hissing sound indicates a leak. Using soapy water for testing is equally effective.
2. The patency of the controlled crankcase ventilation (PCV) valve is impaired.
3. The patency of the air filter is impaired.
4. The fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to the injectors.
5. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket, - measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see Chapter Engine).
6. The camshaft cams are worn out.

There are gaps in the operation of the cylinders at idle

1. Spark plugs are worn or dirty or the plug gap is incorrectly set.
2. Low-quality fuel has been filled, or the passability of the fuel filter has been impaired.
3. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections.
4. The engine control system is malfunctioning.

There are gaps in the work of the engine cylinders when the car is moving in gear

1. Clogged fuel filter or there is a contamination of the power system.
2. There is a malfunction of the power system components or electrical equipment.
3. Faulty I / O wiring.
4. Defective emission control system components.
5. Low or variable cylinder compression.
6. The ignition system is defective.
7. There is a loss of vacuum at the throttle body, intake manifold or through the vacuum hoses.

Engine stalls spontaneously

1. Adjustment of idle speed is broken.
2. The fuel filter is obstructed, or moisture or dirt has entered the power system.
3. There is a failure of components / information sensors of the power system.
4. Defective components of emission control systems.
5. The spark plugs are faulty or dirty or the plug gap is incorrectly set.
6. There is a loss of vacuum at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

Engine does not develop full power

1. There is a malfunction of the power system components or electrical equipment.
2. Clogged air cleaner.
3. Defective spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap set.
4. Defective ignition coil.
5. The ATF level has dropped (see Chapter Car settings and routine maintenance).
6. Transmission slips.
7. The fuel filter is clogged and / or dirt / moisture has entered the fuel system.
8. Fueled with low-quality fuel.
9. Low or variable cylinder compression.

There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

1. The serviceability of the functioning of the components of the power supply system or electrical equipment is violated.
2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or damage to I / O wires).
3. The fuel injection system needs adjustment, or its components are excessively worn out.
4. There is a loss of vacuum at the throttle body, intake manifold or through the vacuum hoses.
5. Valves are stuck.
6. The order of connecting the I / O wires is out of order.

Detonation sounds occur when driving with acceleration or uphill.

1. Fueled with low-quality fuel.
2. Defective power system components or electrical equipment.
3. Wrong spark plugs installed.
4. Basic settings of ECM are violated.
5. Knock sensor defective.
6. Losses of rarefaction take place.

The engine continues to run after turning the key to the "OFF" position

1. Excessively high idle speed.
2. There is a malfunction of the electrical equipment or components of the engine control system.
3. Defective EVAP canister purge valve.
4. High engine operating temperature (coolant level dropped, thermostat faulty, radiator clogged or water pump faulty).
5. The tightness of the injectors is broken.

Engine electrical equipment

Low capacity or insufficient battery power

1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is impaired.
2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is heavily discharged.
3. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire lugs are loose.
4. The alternator does not provide the required charging current.
5. Open circuit in the wiring of the charging circuit.
6. A short to ground in the wiring creates a permanent drain of the current generated by the battery.
7. An internal battery defect has occurred.

The control lamp for charging does not go out when the speed increases

1. The tension of the drive belt is loose.
2. Damaged voltage regulator and / or alternator. Disconnect the wire (D +) from the back of the alternator and turn on the ignition. Next, check the condition of the generator voltage regulator.
3. The generator brushes are worn out.
4. Damaged wire between generator and voltage regulator.

The charging indicator lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the "ON" position

1. The control lamp is out of order.
2. Defective generator.
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit or lamp socket.

The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the key is turned to the "OFF" position

1. Diodes pierced.

• If the starter does not crank, first make sure that there is voltage at terminal # 50 of the traction relay (at least 10 V). If negative, check the condition of the starter current loop wiring.
• To check the correct operation of the starter at full battery voltage, do the following:
• Without gears, turn the key to the "ON" position;
• Connect the terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm 2.
• If the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the malfunction should be looked for in the wires to the starter. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.

The starter does not rotate when the key is turned to the "START" position

1. The battery is discharged.
2. Short circuit terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: if the starter rotates, check the wire 50 connected to the ignition switch for an open circuit, also assess the condition of the starter switch.
3. The ground wire is broken, or the quality of its terminal connection is broken.
4. Weakening of the current due to quality deterioration or oxidation of contact connections.
5. There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of a break in the wiring or damage to the starter switch.

Starter turns slowly and does not crank crankshaft

1. The battery is discharged.
2. Summer oil has been filled in.
3. The passage of current is impeded due to poor-quality contacts.
4. Carbon brushes are not in contact with the manifold, are jammed in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty.
5. Insufficient distance between brushes and collector.
6. The manifold is grooved or burnt and oiled.
7. There is no voltage at terminal 50 (minimum 8 V).
8. The bearing is broken.
9. The traction relay is faulty.

The starter "grabs", but provides only jerky cranking of the engine

1. Gear drive defective.
2. The gear is dirty.
3. The toothed ring of the drive disc is damaged.

Starter gear does not disengage with flywheel / drive disc ring gear

1. Gear drive components dirty or damaged.
2. The traction relay is faulty.
3. The return spring is loose or broken.

The starter continues to work after releasing the ignition key

1. The traction relay is stuck - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
2. The ignition lock does not turn off - disconnect the battery, replace the lock.

Supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

1. Air filter dirty or clogged.
2. The inflation pressure is insufficient or the tires are of the wrong size.
3. The engine is mechanically damaged. Check the compression, make an appropriate refurbishment if necessary.
4. Excessively high idle speed and maximum crankshaft speed.
5. Malfunctions of power system components, electrical equipment or electronic control.
6. Air intake system leaks.
7. Damage to the exhaust system and emission reduction.

Fuel leaks and / or gasoline smells

1. There are leaks in the fuel or ventilation lines.
2. Fuel tank full. Refuel only up to automatic shutdown pistol.
3. There are leaks / fumes from the fuel supply and exhaust gas abatement lines.

Engine won't start

1. When the starter is turned on, the fuel pump does not work (no operating noise is heard). Tap the pump housing lightly to release the jammed part. Check the correctness of the voltage supply to the pump (check that the fuse is in good condition and that the contact terminals of the corresponding wiring are securely fastened).
2. Defective fuel pump relay.
3. There is no signal from the ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its wiring, interrogate the memory of the OBD II system.
4. Damaged, clogged or leaking fuel lines, defective hoses.
5. Clogged fuel filter.
6. Vacuum pipelines are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their seating.
7. The fuel pressure regulator is damaged - check the residual pressure.
8. Position sensor damaged throttle(TPS).
9. There is no power to the ECM.
10. Clogged ventilation fuel tank, the filter in the tank is clogged.

Cold engine starts poorly, runs erratically

1. The CO content is not in accordance with the normative requirements, - make an appropriate measurement, check the idle speed.
2. Defective ECT sensor.
3. The fuel pressure is not at the required value.
4. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.

A warm engine starts poorly, runs unstable

1. Air intake system leaking. Check the intake system. To do this, leave the engine running at Idling and moisten the seals and connections on the intake tract with gasoline. If the number of revolutions increases for a short time, eliminate the leaks.
2. The fuel pump check valve is damaged.
3. Leaks in the fuel system.
4. Increased fuel pressure in the fuel system.
5. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
6. The fuel return line to the tank is clogged or crumpled.
7. Injector valves stuck. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
8. There is no signal from the Hall ignition sensor or the coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the corresponding wiring, interrogate the OBD II system.
9. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.
10. Damaged TPS sensor.
11. There is no power to the ECM.

Engine runs intermittently

1. Fuel pump wiring connections are interrupted from time to time. Check the wiring connectors and fuses for the fuel pump, MAF sensor and fuel pump relay.
2. Poor fuel quality, formation of steam locks.
3. Poor fuel supply.
4. Defective fuel filter.
5. Defective fuel pump.
6. Defective injectors.
7. Defective lambda probe, disturbances in the mixture quality control circuit, or no heating of the lambda probe.
8. Defective TPS.
9. The exhaust manifold or the downpipe of the exhaust system is damaged (there are exhaust gas leaks).
10. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
11. Injector valves stuck. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
12. No signal from Hall ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check wiring, interrogate ECM memory for DTCs.
13. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.
14. Damaged or leaking vacuum lines
15. Pressure regulator damaged - check residual pressure.
16. There is no power to the ECM.

The engine runs intermittently in transient modes and in idle mode

1. Air intake system leaking. Check connections intake system... Start the engine and moisten the connections of the components of the intake tract with gasoline. If the engine speed increases for a short time, eliminate the cause of the leakage.
2. Incorrect idle speed adjustment. Check TPS and lambda regulation.

Hot engine won't start

1. Incorrect adjustment of the CO content. Check CO content and idle speed.
2. Too much high pressure in the fuel system, - check the fuel pressure, replace the pressure regulator if necessary.
3. Clogged or bent return line between pressure regulator and fuel tank. Clean or replace piping.
4. Defective engine temperature sensor.
5. The tightness of the power supply system is broken.
6. The tightness of the intake air path is broken.

Lubrication system

The control lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the "ON" position

1. Defective oil pressure sensor. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the sensor and short it to ground - if the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
2. The sensor is not energized, the contacts are corroded - check the condition of the corresponding wiring.
3. The control lamp is defective.
4. The instrument cluster is defective.

The control lamp does not go out after starting the engine

1. The oil is overheated. If the control lamp goes out after gas supply, nothing needs to be done.

The control lamp does not go out after gas supply, or lights up while driving

1. The oil level has dropped.
2. There is a short circuit in the wiring of the oil level sensor.
3. Defective sensor.

Oil pressure too low at all speeds

1. The oil level has dropped.
2. The oil intake strainer in the oil sump is clogged.
3. The oil pump is worn out.
4. Crankshaft bearings damaged.

Too low oil pressure at low speeds

1. The pressure reducing valve is stuck open due to dirt.

Oil pressure too high at engine speed over 2000 rpm

1. The pressure reducing valve does not open due to dirt.

Cooling system

Overheat

1. The coolant level has dropped.
2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension is not adjusted.
3. The internal channels of the radiator are clogged or the radiator grill is dirty (blocked).
4. Thermostat is defective.
5. Broken or cracked fan impeller blades.
6. The fan switch sensor is faulty.
7. The coolant temperature gauge is faulty.
8. Water pump defective.
9. The radiator cap does not hold pressure - check the cap under pressure.

Hypothermia

1. Thermostat is defective.
2. Temperature meter readings are inaccurate.

External coolant leaks

1. Hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material or they are loose on the fittings.
2. The water pump oil seals are damaged, - the coolant oozes through the control hole in the pump housing.
3. There are leaks from the internal passages of the radiator or reservoir.
4. There are leaks through the engine drain plug or water gallery release plugs.

Internal coolant leaks

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - check the cooling system by pressure.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the casting of the head.

Coolant loss occurs

1. An excessive amount of coolant (coolant) has been charged into the system.
2. Coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.
4. The radiator cap is defective - check the cap by pressure.

The circulation of the coolant is disturbed

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify that the pump is functioning is by pinching the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If, when you release the hose, there is a jolt of liquid inside it, the pump is functioning properly.
2. The patency of the cooling system is impaired - flush it and fill it with fresh fluid. If necessary, remove the radiator and backwash it.
3. Worn or damaged drive belt water pump or its tension adjustment is broken.
4. Thermostat is stuck.

Heater

The heater fan does not work

1. Fan motor fuse defective.
2. The fan switch is faulty - check whether the voltage is supplied to the pre-resistors, remove and check the fan switch.
3. Defective e / fan motor. Check if voltage is supplied to it with the ignition on and the fan switch closed, - if voltage is applied, replace the motor.

The heater fan does not work at one of the stages

1. Pre-resistor defective.

The heater is not turned off by the regulator

1. Defective switch.
2. The cables of the control mixing flap are damaged or poorly moveable.

Heating power too low

1. Insufficient coolant level.
2. The heater control knobs are hard to move - check the control assembly, if necessary replace the corresponding drive cable.

Noise in the area of ​​the heater fan

1. Dirt, leaves got in, - remove the fan and clean it, clean the air channel.
2. The impeller is out of balance, the bearing is damaged.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Due to the complexity of the AT design, it is advisable to diagnose its malfunctions and repair components in a car service workshop.

General problems related to the functioning of the switching mechanism

1. The following can be attributed to the number of failures associated with a violation of the adjustment of the shift thrust:
   • Engine start is possible at transmission positions other than “P” and “N”;
   • Transmission position indicator readings differ from the actual gear selected;
   • The vehicle is moving with the transmission set to the “P” or “N” position;
   • Gears are switched with difficulty or spontaneously.
2. Adjust the gear shift linkage.

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, emits extraneous noise or does not provide vehicle movement when set to one of the gears

1. There are many possible reasons problems listed in the title, however, only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - the wrong level transmission fluid(ATF).
2. Before driving the car to a car service workshop, check the level and condition of the ATF. Correct the ATF level or change it.

There are transmission fluid (ATF) leaks

1. ATF is dark red in color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of impellent oil, which can be carried to the transmission case by the incoming air stream.
2. To identify and localize the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission boat. Use a suitable degreaser and / or steam clean. Then drive the car for a short drive at low speed (so that the leak is not carried away by the oncoming stream far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle and locate the source of the leak by visual inspection. Most often, these are:

• Transmission oil pan, - tighten the fastening bolts and / or replace the oil pan gasket;
• ATF filling pipe, - replace the rubber seal at the point where the pipe enters the transmission case;
• ATF lines, - tighten the union connections or replace the lines;
• Breather pipe, - transmission is overfilled and / or water has entered.

ATF is brown or smells like burning

1. Insufficient ATF level.

Kickdown mode does not engage when pedal is fully depressed (downshift does not engage)

1. The ATF level has dropped.
2. Defective engine management system.
3. The sensor switch or its wiring is faulty.
4. The adjustment of the selector drive cable is faulty.

The engine does not start in any position of the selector or starts in positions other than "P" and "R"

1. The adjustment of the start enable sensor switch is disturbed.
2. The adjustment of the selector cable is faulty.

Transmission slips, jerks or noises when shifting gears. The car does not move when the modes "D" or "R"

1. The ATF level has dropped.
2. Defective sensor or its wiring.
3. Serviceability of functioning of the engine control system is broken.

Extraneous noise

1. Normal road noises - cannot be corrected.
2. Tire noise - check the condition of the treads and the inflation pressure of the tires.
3. Wheel bearings are worn or damaged, or the tightening force is weakened.

Vibrations

1. Check the condition of the wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the appropriate angle of the vehicle and rotating the wheel by hand. While doing this, listen for sounds emanating from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

1. Differential oil seals are damaged.

Brake system

Increased brake pedal travel

1. The working circuit of the brake path is damaged - check the system for leaks.

The brake pedal bounces and falls

1. Air has entered the brake path - bleed the system.
2. The liquid level in the GTZ reservoir has dropped, - make the appropriate adjustment, bleed the system.
3. Steam bubble formation. It manifests itself mainly when the brakes are heavily loaded. Replace brake fluid, remove air from the system.

Reduced braking effect, pedal fails

1. The tightness of the hydraulic path is broken.
2. Damaged cuffs in the master or working brake cylinders.

Poor braking despite high pedal pressure

1. Brake linings are oiled.
2. Incorrect or hardened pads installed.
3. Brake booster defective.
4. Brake pads worn out.

When braking, the car is pulled to the side

1. The inflation pressure of the tires is not correct.
2. Protectors worn unevenly.
3. Brake linings are oiled.
4. Different brake pads are installed on one axle.
5. Brake pads worn out.
6. Caliper shafts are dirty.
7. Pads worn unevenly.

Spontaneous braking

1. Expansion hole clogged in main brake cylinder(GTZ).

Brakes get hot while driving

1. The expansion hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged.
2. Insufficient clearance between the drive rod and the GTZ piston.

The brakes are shaking

1. The wrong type of brake shoe is installed.
2. The brake disc is corroded in places.

Brake pads do not leave the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand

1. Corrosion in the brake caliper cylinders. Repair or replace the caliper.

Uneven pad wear

1. The pads are of the wrong type. Replace pads.
2. The calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace them.
3. The piston stroke is obstructed.
4. The tightness of the brake system path is broken.

Wedge-shaped brake pad wear

1. The calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace them.
2. Serviceability of functioning of the piston is broken.

Squeaking brakes

1. Often the reason is atmospheric influence (air humidity). If the creak appears after a long stay at high humidity and then disappears, nothing needs to be done.
2. The pads are of the wrong type.
3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.
4. The caliper shaft is dirty.
5. The springs of the pads are bent.
6. The pressure springs are stretched.

Brake pedal pulsation

1. Sign of normal ABS operation.
2. The runout of the brake disc is excessive.
3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.

The ABS warning lamp comes on while driving

1. Insufficient supply voltage (below 10 V). Check voltage. Check if the alternator warning lamp goes out after starting the engine. If everything is in order, check the alternator drive belt.

Suspension and steering

The car takes away when driving to one side

1. Tires are not evenly inflated.
2. There is a tire defect.
3. Requires adjustment of the front wheel alignment angles.
4. Front brakes are seized.

Jerking, twitching, or vibrations occur

1. Wheel balance is disturbed or disc ovality appears.
2. Wheel bearings are worn, their tightening force is weakened, or the adjustment is broken.
3. Damaged or worn shock struts or other suspension components.

Excessive rocking of the vehicle / nose burying occurs when cornering or braking

1. Suspension struts are defective.
2. Suspension components damaged.

Steering wheel turns too tight

1. The fluid level in the reservoir of the power steering (GUR) has dropped excessively.
2. Tires inflated incorrectly.
3. The steering gear joints are not lubricated enough.
4. The adjustment of the angles of the front wheels is disturbed.
5. Power steering does not develop the required power.

Excessive steering play occurs

1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened.
2. Excessively worn suspension or steering components.

Power steering does not develop proper effort

1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn out or damaged, or its tension adjustment is broken.
2. The power steering fluid level has dropped excessively.
3. Hydraulic hoses or lines obstructed.
4. Air has got into the power steering, - bleed the system.

Excessive wear of the protectors takes place (not in one particular area)

1. Tires inflated incorrectly.
2. Wheel balance is out of order.
3. Wheel rims damaged.
4. Excessively worn suspension or steering components.

Excessive wear of the outer edge protectors takes place

1. Tires inflated incorrectly.
2. The turns are too sharp.
3. The adjustment of the angles of the front wheels is disturbed (excessive convergence).
4. The suspension arm is bent or twisted.

There is excessive wear on the inner edge protectors

1. Tires inflated incorrectly.
2. The adjustment of the angles of the front wheels is disturbed (divergence).
3. Steering components damaged or loose.

Local tread wear occurs

1. Wheel balance is out of order.
2. Discs damaged or bent.
3. There is a tire defect.

Defects of wiper blades

Slippage

1. Rubber working parts are dirty.
2. The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn or torn.

In the cleaning field, residual water immediately collects into drops

1. The windshield is dirty with varnish or oil.

The brush cleans on one side - good in one direction, not in the other

1. The rubber working element has one-sided wear.
2. The wiper arm is twisted, the wiper does not fit exactly to the glass.

Uncleaned surfaces

1. The reliability of fixing the working element in the brush frame is broken.
2. The brush does not evenly adhere to the glass.
3. Lever contact force too low - lightly grease wiper arm hinges and springs or install a new arm.

Tire defects

Severe tire wear on both sides of the working surface

1. Tire pressure too low.

Severe tire wear in the middle of the tread across the entire tread circumference

1. Tire pressure too high.

Uneven tread wear

1. Static and dynamic imbalance of the wheel, possibly due to excessive lateral runout of the disc, too much play in the bearing joints.

Uneven wear in the middle of the tread

1. Static imbalance in the wheel, possibly due to excessive vertical runout.

Severe wear of individual areas in the middle of the tread surface

1. The result of hard braking.

Sawtooth tread wear, often in conjunction with an invisible tear in the fabric base of the tire

1. Overloading the vehicle. Check the condition of the inner walls of the tires.

Rubber tabs on the side edges of the tread (scaly wear)

1. The wheel alignment is broken.
2. Tires are worn out.
3. Defective shock absorbers / torsion springs / post assemblies.

Burr formation on one side of the front wheel tread

1. Toe adjustment is faulty.
2. Tires are worn out.
3. Frequent movement on uneven surfaces. Fast cornering.

Cord breaks. At first only visible from the inside

1. Driving over sharp stones, tire bumps, etc. at high speed.

One-sided wear of the tread working surface

1. Check camber adjustment.
2. There is an ABS malfunction, - check the condition and reliability of fixing the terminal connection of the mass of the return pump (in the hydromodulator).

UAZ Patriot is the best domestic frame SUV. The ideal ratio "price / quality" and almost the only a car with two bridges, produced to this day.

Love for the UAZ Patriot in Russia is immeasurable, and therefore, on secondary market you can easily find a decent specimen, ready to conquer off-road terrain. This article will discuss how to find a decent SUV, devoid of major factory flaws.

What should you pay attention to first of all?

Examining the UAZ Patriot, one should clearly understand that most likely this cars drove off-road and transported heavy loads. Therefore, the closest attention should be paid to the suspension and chassis of the vehicle. In order to correctly check the suspension, you need a lift, or a garage with a viewing hole.

Weaknesses UAZ Patriot (3163)

• bring the front kingpin;
• cardan shafts;
• Paintwork and anticorrosive;
• timing belt tensioner;
• independent increase in the body lift and suspension;
• overheating of the engine.

Now in more detail ...

Front suspension king pin

Already after 10-15 thousand kilometers, the pivots begin to crumble, wheel play appears, which leads to unstable movement on the road and the need for constant steering.
In order to determine the condition of the pivots, it is enough to shake the wheel by hand. If the backlash is noticeable and the wheel "walks" in your hands, then get ready for an early replacement of the king pin.

It is interesting! Many experienced car enthusiasts immediately change the factory pivots for bronze pivots from the Vaxoil company. These time-tested parts make the car reliable and stable on the track. So, if there are bronze pivots in the patriot being inspected, the car was well taken care of, and it was in the right hands.

Cardan shafts.

UAZ cardans are very fond of leaks. And this also applies to unattended cardan shafts which are installed on Patriots since 2015. From excessive loads, or a factory defect, oil flows out of the driveshafts, and this guarantees their quick failure.

Therefore, if oil smudges are noticeable on the driveshafts or, on the contrary, they are too clean (the oil that has come out was simply erased), then there is a reason for serious bargaining.

Paintwork and anticorrosive coating.

Despite the victorious statements of the administration of the Ulyanovsk plant about high quality bodywork and painting, in fact, things are not so good. After 3-4 years of intensive use, the Patriot begins to rot desperately. It is imperative to check the corrosion at the joints of the fenders and the body, at the seams of the roof and in the area of ​​the windshield.

If specks of rye are present, then there is no doubt that the underside of the car is covered with rust. The bottom of the machine should be inspected. Did you see a fresh anticorrosive product from a stale car? Refuse to buy! The car rusted very seriously, and they simply covered the rust with a fresh anti-corrosion coating.

It is interesting! The zealous owners make anticorrosive products immediately after purchasing the car. And if a specialized Raptor coating is applied to the Patriot, then it is not afraid of scratches and cracks.

Get a Patriot and let it run for 20-30 minutes. If the engine temperature is within reasonable limits, everything is fine. If the temperature rises sharply and hot air begins to enter the car from the front armrest, then the cooling system does not work correctly or does not work at all.

Tension roller.

Chronic disease of the UAZ Patriot, for several years in a row the quality of the timing belt tensioners leaves much to be desired. If you do not take care of replacing such a part in time, this can lead to serious engine damage. Therefore, it is necessary to ask the owner of the car if he changed the rollers. In the event that the rollers are factory-made, they should be replaced by yourself.

Body or suspension lift.

An elevator (raising the body or suspension by 5 centimeters or more) is done in order to put huge mud wheels on the car. If such an improvement is made in "collective farm" conditions, without special equipment and competent specialists, then it will cause premature wear of the gearbox and engine. This will "kill" the Patriot in just 2-3 years. Of course, you should not buy such a "killed" car.

Typical disadvantages of the UAZ Patriot

How to choose the right Patriot?

First of all, you shouldn't save money. Drive the car to a service station and order a full diagnosis. Believe me, such a check will pay for itself entirely! You definitely won't buy a pig in a poke. And if the owner refuses to go to the service station, then it is better to say goodbye to him, because such a Patriot is full of defects.
Be sure to drive your car for at least 20-30 kilometers. it The best way feel how the Patriot behaves on the road and listen to all the "crickets" in the cabin.

It is desirable to have a thickness gauge paintwork... Thus, you can be sure whether the car was in accidents or not.

P.S: Dear UAZ drivers! We will be very grateful if you write in the comments below about the shortcomings and frequent breakdowns your car identified during operation.

Weaknesses and main disadvantages of a UAZ Patriot with mileage was last modified: October 7th, 2019 by Administrator

All new UAZ Patriot models are equipped with ECUs at the factory. This allows the vehicle systems to work with higher accuracy, as well as to diagnose components using standard tools. If the car is not equipped with an on-board computer, you can purchase one and install it yourself. At the moment, the most common are two main types of bookmakers: Prestige and Multitronics. These models allow you to read the main types of ECU errors and display them on the display.

By default, all errors that occur during the operation of electronic systems are recorded in the ECU log and can only be viewed with the help of special equipment at the service station. The most critical ones are displayed on the control panel as the CheckEngine icon. In this case, the car usually shows serious malfunctions and requires urgent repair. Installing the BC allows you to solve minor problems in a timely manner, without leading to breakdowns. In addition, the on-board computer there is a function to reset some errors. They sometimes occur during the operation of the car, but they are insignificant and do not require elimination, but as a result, some systems may be disabled.

Error codes

Let's consider an algorithm for working with a bookmaker using the Prestige device line as an example. To display the system status on the device display, enter the Maintenance menu and select the ERRORS / DIAGNOSTICS section. When the codes appear, you can read them or perform a reset.

Group 04

• 0420 - indicates a catalyst malfunction. It is most likely clogged and interfering with normal exit. exhaust gases... Most often occurs with Euro 2,3 and 4 engines.
• 0443 - incorrect functioning of the adsorber valve
• 0445,0444 - short circuit of the absorber valve wiring
• 0480 - problems with the operation of 1 fan
• 0481 - fan 2 malfunction

Group 03

These codes mainly describe problems with the ignition system. Among them, the most common:

• 0301-0304 the error number corresponds to the cylinder number with the misfire. The usual reason for the appearance is clogging, an incorrectly set gap, and so on.
• 0327 - Incorrect operation of the knock sensor
• 0335 - malfunction of the crankshaft sensor
• 0340 - phase sensor error. Usually occurs as a result of oxidation inside the sensor. To eliminate the malfunction, it is sometimes enough to remove it and rinse it with a special rust converter. The element is located on the cylinder block. If the error persists after cleaning, this indicates its failure.

Group 01

This series of codes is responsible for malfunctions of a large number of sensors, for example:

• DMRV;
• coolant temperature.

The most common is p0106. It signals a malfunction of the intake manifold pressure sensor. There are several main reasons for its appearance and ways to eliminate it:

• Oxidation of contacts, in this case it is necessary to treat them with a solvent or a special spray.
• Clogged air tube. In this case, in addition to special flushing agents, for example for carburetors, use a steel cable for mechanical cleaning. Moreover, its thickness should not exceed 0.8mm.

After fixing the problem, the error must be reset and check if it has appeared again after starting the engine. If it reoccurs, check the electronic components or perform a more thorough cleaning.

Useful video:

Error 0704

May manifest itself as a result of clutch problems. The ECU can read the error if the pedal limit switch is broken. One of the reasons may be a weakening of the compression spring. It is necessary to check the entire unit and only then reset the BC.

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UAZ-469 engine does not start