To become the happy owner of a powerful and reliable toy controlled from a distance is the dream not only of many children, but also of some parents. Today, manufacturers are ready to offer a variety of entertainment that can surprise even the most sophisticated young consumers. Radio-controlled technology can be a wonderful gift, and when correct operation she is able to serve for quite a long time.
Among the large number of models, radio-controlled gasoline cars deserve special attention, since the power and reliability indicators of these products are among the highest. About the features of these popular toys, their technical characteristics and types further and will be discussed.
What is a Remote Controlled Petrol Car?
First of all, it should be said that such a product is almost complete, but only a reduced copy of the usual vehicle... These cars also run on gasoline, while the maximum speeds are really impressive: some models can easily accelerate to 80 km / h. However, it is worth noting the fact that such mechanisms periodically require repair, just like ordinary cars, so the process of "driving" should be taken seriously.
Of course, it is not recommended to use such toys indoors, since their full potential can only be assessed in open areas, for example, on asphalt roads.
The main characteristics of gasoline cars on radio control
There are many varieties of these models: these are cars for road racing, and buggies, and samples designed exclusively for drifting, which will be discussed a little later. This or that radio-controlled car with a gasoline engine has its own characteristics.
So, a distinctive feature of these models is the remote control. For radio-controlled samples, its maximum range of interaction with a typewriter is usually about 150 m.
Another unique detail is Gas engine, the power of which can be different. The scope of its operation depends on what type of motor is installed in a particular model.
If we compare gasoline-powered cars on radio control in size, then we can safely single out both children's reduced products and large toys that are more suitable for adult lovers of such technology.
What should the choice of a gasoline radio-controlled car depend on?
In order for the acquired technique to bring only joy, you should first carefully study the entire range of products and focus on the most suitable one. When choosing a car for a child, you must be guided primarily by his age, but it is also worth thinking about how he will use the toy. If the main requirement for a product is speed, then it is best to choose a road model, and an off-road model is ideal for overcoming obstacles.
The younger the child, the easier it should be to operate. It is better to refuse to purchase highly sensitive devices so that the owner of the machine does not experience problems. In this case, you should pay attention to the size of the product, since some gasoline cars with radio control are quite voluminous, which can be very inconvenient for a small child. Large models - perfect option for adults.
Correct operation of a remote controlled petrol machine
In order for such a toy to last as long as possible, you need to take a responsible approach to its content. Do not forget that it is very problematic for a child to cope with such a technique, therefore it is better if an adult is always there. Of course, all repair and maintenance work (replacing fuel, oil, lubricating parts, etc.) must also be performed by parents, not only because of the risk of equipment breakdown, but also because harmful fuel vapors are dangerous for the child's body.
Many radio-controlled petrol cars are sold disassembled, so it is extremely important to follow the instructions provided when assembling such products. In addition, safety rules exclude any games near sources of fire and open water.
Features and Benefits of RC Drift Cars
As mentioned earlier, remote-controlled fuel-fueled vehicles may differ depending on their intended use. So, radio-controlled gasoline drift cars are very popular among consumers. These models are liked by both adults and children, and their difference from ordinary high-speed toys lies in the following technical characteristics:
- such gasoline cars are equipped with special shock absorbers with drift springs;
- the tires of these products do not have a tread pattern and are more rigid than conventional models;
- as a rule, the basis of the body of such a toy is shockproof plastic, as well as a durable bumper that protects the equipment from impacts;
- the special design of the hangers allows for various technical elements.
How not to be mistaken when choosing a gasoline drift car?
Radio-controlled toy cars designed specifically for such purposes should not be bought for a very small child, since the minimum age of the owner should be 3 years.
Also, remember that there are no completely universal models. This means that when purchasing a toy car for drifting, you should not expect any other properties from it, such as high speeds or high cross-country ability.
Another important point is the type of built-in motor. A radio-controlled gasoline car used for drifting (photos of various samples can always be found in specialized publications) must have a very powerful motor so that the loads exerted on the model do not harm it. The complete set of a new product, as a rule, assumes that the toy is ready to ride without the need to purchase additional parts.
The main parts of a gasoline car on a remote control
Parents do not always have the opportunity to buy an expensive toy for their child in a store. But if we talk about gasoline cars, then such products can be made independently. The structure of these toys is in many ways similar to the structure of a standard car, so for many drivers the installation process will be clear.
To figure out how to do gasoline car on radio control, you should initially decide what parts will be needed for this work. So, the following structural parts are included in the package of a standard toy:
- shockproof body;
- gasoline engine of the desired power;
- strong wheels;
- chassis;
- a set of tools in the form of screwdrivers of different sizes.
Assembly features
It is not difficult to make radio-controlled gasoline cars with your own hands. After purchasing the necessary materials, you should start the installation.
When attaching the front wheels to the frame, make sure they turn easily. It is best to choose rubber tires, since it is this material that has the highest quality grip on the road.
The body for the car can simply be purchased in the store, but many owners want to create a unique toy and come up with their own sketch of the body, which is subsequently made with the help of a specialist.
When choosing a radio unit for control, you should not save on it, since the quality of this part directly affects the convenience of controlling the vehicle.
By far one of the most important parts of a car is its engine. Gasoline models require careful maintenance, but their power ratings are the highest.
Thus, we can say with confidence that it is quite possible to assemble a radio-controlled car, operating with fuel, with your own hands, the main thing is to have a desire for this and the entire list of necessary parts.
Not only children are now interested in toys. Many adults buy exact copies of cars famous brands or they are looking for radio-controlled models of cars. Among the offered assortment of toy stores, it is not always possible to find an option that will completely suit the client. In some cases, it is much better to make a radio-controlled model of a car yourself, your child will appreciate your efforts. A do-it-yourself gift from improvised means is much more valuable than a bright typewriter bought at an expensive toy store.
You can make your own radio-controlled car using our sequential algorithm. Modeling from one finished model of a car to another is very similar to the actions of craftsmen in a car workshop.
To create a do-it-yourself controlled machine, you need to have the following elements:
- Electric motor;
- Frame small car;
- Robust chassis;
- Removable wheels;
- Mini screwdriver set;
- detailed instructions to accessories.
Undoubtedly, self-assembly of the machine on the remote control has a lot of advantageous advantages, namely:
- Saving money, while you will have the model of the car that you wanted;
- You can choose the model you need from the offered assortment of spare parts and body types;
- You decide - to make a mini-typewriter on a wired remote control, or use a radio control, which will have to spend a large amount.
After you decide on the model, follow the following sequence of actions:
- We select a chassis for your model, pay attention to the quality of all small parts. No blotches and notches on the surface of the plastic should be visible, the front wheels should move smoothly;
- When choosing wheels, pay special attention to models with rubber, since all plastic models have a poor quality grip surface;
- Take the choice of motor with all seriousness, since this is the main heart of the mini-car. There are 2 types of mini-motors for cars - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are affordable and easy to use, they are powered by a battery, and it is very easy to recharge it. Gasoline options have more power, but they are more expensive and require delicate care. They need to be injected with special fuel. For beginners in the field of toy car modeling, electric motors are suitable;
- You need to decide on the type of control - wired or wireless. Wired controls are cheaper, but the car will only move within a limited radius, while the RC model will move within antenna range. The radio unit is much more efficient for mini-cars;
- The body of the future car also deserves increased attention. You can choose a ready-made case or make it according to your personal sketch.
After all the parts are purchased, you can start assembling.
We attach a motor and a radio unit to the chassis. We mount the antenna. Along with the accessories, there should be detailed instructions for assembling the entire machine. We are adjusting the work of the motor. After everything is working properly, fix the sturdy body of the mini-car to the chassis. Now you can decorate the created model as you like. Let's make a car with a powerful motor.
Many will find the idea of assembling a motorized car for their child very strange, since there are many ready-made options on store shelves. But if you strive to show individuality and earn credibility in the eyes of your child, then you can start assembling a machine with a motor, although this is not easy, but the result will justify all efforts.
The best option is to start assembling a radio-controlled model. This will require certain skills and knowledge of small electrical engineering, because this mini-machine is a rather complex mechanism, despite its compact size. All important parts must be purchased.
We begin to study the control panel. The movement of the car, the ability to overcome obstacles, and make beautiful maneuvers directly depends on the correct assembly. Many car models use a three-channel pistol-style remote control, which you can assemble yourself.
You can follow a simple path - get a special designer, where the kit contains all the necessary parts, their detailed diagrams and final drawings of the finished models.
The motors for future RC models can be electric or internal combustion... Internal combustion engines produce gasoline or incandescent, operating on a composition of methanol, oil and nitromethane, a special gas-alcohol mixture. The approximate volumes of such engines range from 15 to 35 cm3.
Approximate volume fuel tank for such machines is 700 cm3. It provides the engine smooth operation within 45 minutes. Many gasoline models have rear drive, an independent suspension is mounted on them.
Today, there are many demountable models on the market for car builders. Among the leading manufacturers of mini-cars, it is worth highlighting ABC, Protech, FG Modelsport (Germany), HPI, HIMOTO (USA). Their main feature is the similarity of mini-models with real prototypes. After completing the assembly, according to the attached instructions, install a charged on-board battery, a battery in the transmitter, pour a small amount of gasoline into the tank. You can safely launch your iron horse let's hit the road.
Modeling cars of your own accord is a fun hobby, especially when the result exceeds all expectations. To begin with, you need to purchase a Range Rover bench model, from which we will make a jeep that can freely dissect off-road. We also need to take working electronics from an old jeep, we will fix it in an SUV.
We make bridges and differentials from copper pipes with a soldering iron. We attach it to the powerful wheels of the SUV. Care must be taken to ensure that all connections are firmly sealed. We closed the sharpening differentials with pill caps. From above we cover the entire joint of the differential with ordinary auto enamel. We put the bridges on the frame and carry out the steering rods. Steering rods can be obtained from an old disassembled machine. After installing the plastic bottom, cut out a hole there, which is necessary for installing the gearbox, cardan shafts... The gearbox contains an airplane engine, which is also quite powerful. The model does not move in jerks, but smoothly, this is the most important condition for such models. It is quite difficult to make a gearbox, but here you can show all your ingenuity. We fix the gearbox tightly to the bottom, attach the bottom to the frame. Now the electronics, shock absorbers, battery are being installed. At the end, the car body is painted, the main units are installed, the headlights and much more. We apply the paint in 4 layers for ordinary plastic. The author found the original photo of the car and made a mini-copy of it in a toy version. So that the model is not afraid of moisture, he covered the electronics with a special compound. To give the effect of antiquity, I sanded the outer surface of the car after painting. The battery in this model is enough for 25 minutes of continuous riding.
To create such a simple model, we need the following list of small details:
- Microcircuit for a radio-controlled car;
- Remote Control;
- Steering element;
- Soldering iron with solder;
- Compact electrical device;
- Battery with charger.
The procedure is as follows:
- We collect the lower part of the car, that is, the suspension;
- For this purpose, a strong plastic plate is required, it will be the basis for this model;
- A microcircuit for a radio-controlled car is attached to it, we solder a wire to it, which serves as an antenna;
- We solder the wires from the electric motor;
- We fix the battery wires to the correct points of the microcircuit;
- We fix the wheels taken from a simple children's car;
- All parts can be secured so as not to fall off during use.
We fix the steering elements, it is impossible to do this with glue alone. The front axle must be wrapped with electrical tape for a stronger fix. We attach the battery to a microcircuit. The machine is now ready for testing. It must definitely function. The control of such a machine is carried out using the remote control. By following these instructions, you can easily make a new typewriter on the control. If you want to design with your own hands, then this guide is more useful than ever. A handmade toy pleases much more than a model bought with your own hands.
To assemble this model, we need the following components:
- A simple model of a car of any production;
- VAZ parts for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
- Radio control equipment;
- Durable batteries with chargers;
- Radiator;
- Electronic measuring equipment;
- Small soldering iron with solder;
- Locksmith tools;
- A piece of rubber to provide reinforcement for the bumper.
An approximate scheme for collecting a radio-controlled model is shown in the figure.
Let's move on to reading and collecting the diagram, to the fascinating process of creating a unique mini-typewriter. First, we collect the suspension. We take VAZ connections and gears for assembling the gearbox. The studs and housing need to be threaded in order to hang the gears and solenoids. We connect the gearbox to the power supply, check it, and then fix it on a typewriter. To effectively protect the system from overheating, we install a radiator. The plate from it can be firmly fixed with ordinary bolts. Next comes the installation of power driver and radio control microcircuits. We completely install the car body. Our mini car is ready for real challenges.
You have a radio-controlled car. Are you looking to make it more agile, but don't know how to do it?
Do not overload the model with additional systems and unnecessary small details. Sound signals, glowing headlights are all conveniences, they look great, but a do-it-yourself collection process radio-controlled cars and without this it has certain difficulties. Complicating details can negatively affect important undercarriage auto. The main point to focus on is the creation of a high-quality suspension, ensuring reliable signal transmission.
For improved agility and optimization speed parameters fine-tuning the system during test drives will do. These guidelines will help you to understand the business of car modeling. You can create a typewriter yourself, which will be a real copy of a large model. All the details will be similar, only your version will have everything in a mini-format.
Make your son happy - make a car with him on the control panel
You can start with a simple one - to assemble a construction machine on the remote control. First you need to come up with a project: how your car will look like, how it will move, view other details. To start immediate assembly, you need to prepare not only all the important components of the future iron horse, but also the necessary devices. To start an exciting joint activity with our sons, we take the following things:
- Small motor, can be borrowed from an old vein or a household fan;
- Sturdy frame;
- Mini rubber kit;
- Quality suspension for a small chassis;
- 2 sturdy axles for fixing the wheels;
- Wireless antenna;
- Thin wires for connections;
- High-quality batteries for the accumulator or special gasoline;
- Assembled signal receiver;
- An old remote control, a simple transmitter or an outdated radio unit will do.
From the devices you will need pliers, a small soldering iron, screwdrivers of various diameters.
Assembly order
During the collection process, it may turn out that some of the missing parts will have to be bought or borrowed from the old, broken machines of the little son. After all, he will sacrifice them for the sake of a cool novelty, isn't that so ?! We take the frame and body from the old samples of the son's toys. The selected motor is tested in advance for maneuverability and performance. The power of the engine should not go against the weight of the car, because a weak motor will not pull a heavy structure. Batteries must be unused. The step-by-step assembly steps are as follows:
- First, we assemble the mini-frame;
- Then we fix and adjust the serviceable motor;
- We introduce batteries or a compact battery;
- Next, the antenna is fixed;
- The wheels are mounted so that they can turn freely, spinning with the axle. If this condition is not met, the machine will only move forward and backward.
For the future iron horse, it is better to take rubber tires, since they perform best on open ground. If the assembly process was easy enough, you were able to figure out all the intricacies of the initial car modeling, then you can make several samples, you can give another copy to a neighbor's boy. They will arrange outdoor racing on the street.
Assembling a new unique car is a fascinating process for which dad and son can spend more than one evening. To turn it into a productive business, you can follow the following recommendations, they must be taken into account when assembling a modern toy:
- Sketch future model that you want to collect or use the ready-made collection instructions;
- Purchase all quality car parts;
- Additional parts can be taken from old machines or purchased new ones;
- Before installation, thoroughly test the selected motor, this is the heart of the machine;
- Don't skimp on batteries for a new model, keep them new and unused;
- Firmly fix all the details, according to their sequence;
- Study the schemes for creating similar cars in advance to facilitate the assembly process;
- Choose a ready-made model or come up with something of your own, unique.
Following these recommendations, you and your child will easily make the chosen model of the machine. You can make and collect exact replicas of the original cars when you reach a certain skill level. Putting together a car in a family circle - that's the best way effective organization of leisure for yourself and your child.
A self-assembled machine will be a valuable present for your children, because real fatherly feelings are embedded in it. When assembled, the model will travel in the selected direction and is easy to maneuver. You can learn how to make a simple version of the typewriter by following the recommendations from the proposed video. Start your journey in the world of car modeling!
The idea of \ u200b \ u200bcreating a radio-controlled car model arose a long time ago. But the implementation of this idea in plastic and metal all the time hindered some objective reasons. Firstly, the complete lack of experience in the design and construction of such a model (my hobby is aircraft modeling, and the structure and operation of some units of car models, the types of materials used, engines, batteries, the selection of a gearbox, etc. I was very vague). Secondly, the complete absence of literature on this topic. Thirdly, the lack of components (motors, gears, small diameter bearings, etc.). Surprisingly, the latter problem was quickly and easily resolved. I work at a data center, and the guys who know about my hobby for modeling somehow gave me some decommissioned printing mechanisms from printers and tape drives. Of all these "pieces of iron" I managed to pick up several pairs of gears with different gear ratio, several shafts made of quality steel for the axles and small bearings. Literature was also quite simple: I reviewed all the magazines "Modelist-Constructor" in my own library and in my library, and found some interesting articles for me. To begin with, it was decided to build the simplest model (no differential, no depreciation, no bearings, the engine from the car door lock locking mechanism, power supply - 8-10 SC-0.55 A / h batteries).
After closer acquaintance with the catalog and models of the TAMIYA firm, I was convinced that I did not make a model, but a toy. I wanted to build something more serious, I had to develop blueprints again. Due to the rather high complexity of the components of proprietary models (almost all parts are cast and of complex configuration), a transmission containing many parts, low strength and durability of mechanisms (please note that this is my subjective opinion), I do not even design an all-wheel drive and front-wheel drive chassis tried to. The prototype was the chassis from the Formula 1 model; the model was originally conceived for asphalt. Materials - sheet fiberglass, steel, duralumin, caprolactam, microporous rubber. The differential was made according to the description in the "Model-constructor", the front suspension is similar to the proprietary one, but made of fiberglass, the regulator is home-made, mechanical. During operation, some nuances arose that did not suit me. First, the wheels are completely unprotected from the blows of rivals. I had to change the front suspension arms several times and the axle a couple of times. rear axle... Secondly, a very dense arrangement of mechanisms under the body of a small volume, and, as a result, difficult maintenance and cleaning of units. Thirdly, the material for the parts of the differential was poorly chosen, and its work did not suit me.
Taking into account the above, as well as the accumulated experience in the creation and operation of such models, a slightly different version of the chassis was developed. The changes mainly affected the type of chassis (for a closed body), the layout of the units, some parts of the differential, the steering gear protection unit. It is rather difficult for me to give an objective assessment of my "work", but the chassis suits me. Compared to the TAMIYA models, the chassis is faster (although the comparison was made visually, the front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive and my chassis were compared; the models were standard, without additional options). Parts and mechanisms are simpler than branded ones, in case of breakage, they can be easily repaired or repaired.
Unfortunately, I did not have the opportunity to work with the branded components (wheels, differential parts, etc.). But I think that by changing the size and configuration of some parts of the front suspension and rear axle, it is quite possible to apply the standard wheels, differential, shock absorbers, etc., produced by firms. In addition, by changing the size of some parts, it is quite possible to change the base and track of the chassis, that is, to make the chassis for any closed body. And, finally, the chassis did not cost me $ 200 plus about the same for tuning (maybe somewhere the prices are lower, but we have such).
In this material, I in no way want to belittle the merits and achievements of manufacturers of model products, offend people who have the opportunity to buy expensive models and accessories for them or pretend to be new ideas. Almost all the materials were published in the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, however, I sometimes used other materials, changed something and modified it taking into account the details that I had. In general, what I have succeeded is what I bring to your attention.
Brief technical characteristics
| Chassis type | backward |
| Base | 260 mm |
| Rear wheel width | 200 mm |
| Front wheel width | 188 mm |
| Ground clearance | 14 mm |
| Chassis weight | 700 g |
| Transfer type | single stage open gear; K = 1: 4.2 or K = 1: 4.5 |
| engine's type | Mabuchi 540, Speed 600 of various modifications |
| Front suspension | independent, depreciation - fiberglass plate |
| Rear suspension | dependent, depreciation - fiberglass plate and oil shock absorber-damper |
| Batteries | 7.2 Vx1400mA / h plus 4.8Vx260mA / h for on-board equipment |
Description of the structure
Chassis base
Functionally, the chassis consists of three main components: a chassis base, a rear axle with a shock absorption system and a front suspension with a shock absorption system and a protective clutch. The base of the chassis is part 1, cut from 2.5 mm thick fiberglass. On this part, they are installed in the corresponding grooves of the sidewalls 3 and 4, which form a box-case for placing power batteries. After installing these parts, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy. On the racks 5 (material-duralumin or aluminum alloy), the "second floor" of the chassis 2 is attached, on which the steering gears, the travel regulator, the attachment points for the oil shock absorber and the steering gear protective clutch are located. It should be noted that the grooves of part 2 must coincide with the corresponding spikes of the sidewalls 3 (these places are not glued!). This assembled design increases the strength of the battery box. Brackets 6 are installed in front of the rear wheels, which play the role of protective "ears" and, in addition, they are equipped with body fastening pins. At the front of the chassis, the body can be attached to similar pins installed in the bumper area. The bumper configuration depends on the prototype bow and is not shown in the drawings. Also, the attachment points of the body pins are not shown. Their location depends on the contours of the prototype hood. Due to the fact that fiberglass is inferior in strength to carbon fiber, the relief windows are cut out only in the parts that form the box for the power battery.
Rear axle with shock absorption system
The rear axle is made as a single, easily removable unit, which increases the convenience of repair and maintenance. The base of the bridge (see section A-A) is a glass fiber laminate plate 3 2.5 mm thick (you can use duralumin 2 mm thick). The motor frame 1 and the left wheel rack 2, made of 6 mm thick duralumin, are attached to it with M3 screws. The upper frame of the rear axle 4 is fastened from above with the same screws. Bearing cups 5 (right) and 6 (left) are attached to the engine frame and the rack. The right one was machined from steel and brought to the dimensions shown in the drawing; the left glass is made of duralumin. Bearings-13x6x3,
closed type. Axis 20 connecting rear wheels, made of a steel bar with a diameter of 6 mm. In the place where the left wheel is installed in the axle, an M2.5 hole is made for the pin. In the hub of the left wheel 17, a groove with a width of 2.5 mm is cut through. When installing the wheel on the axle, the pin enters the cut in the hub and thus prevents the wheel from turning on the axle. The right wheel is connected to the driven gear 11 (the drawing on the left shows the gear that I found, on the right it is after revision) through a ball friction clutch. It is formed by 6 balls with a diameter of 4.8 mm from the bearing, located in the sockets of the cylindrical insert 10 (the cylindrical insert is connected to the gear with six M1.5 screws; holes for the screws are drilled along a circle with a diameter of 37 mm at 60o; a bronze plain bearing 12 is pressed into the insert) ... On both sides, the coupling is compressed with steel hardened washers 9 (washers size 30x13x1.2). One of the washers is glued into the hub of the right wheel 13, the second is glued to the thrust disk 8. The thrust disk is seated on the axle through a split bronze bushing 7. The thrust ball bearing 15 (made of steel bar; after grooving under the balls of the part are hardened). Adjustment of forces in the coupling is carried out by tightening the nut with a nylon insert 19. To prevent axial displacements, a bushing 21 is installed on the axis 20, which is fixed on the axis with an M3 screw. The right wheel hub 13 and the left disc 16 are machined from caprolactam; two bronze plain bearings 14 are pressed into the right-hand hub. The wheel tires are made of microporous rubber. To eliminate the axial play, a spacer washer 18 is used.
The rear axle is hung on the chassis base through a fiberglass shock absorber plate 22 using three M3 screws. On the base of the chassis, this part is fixed with a screw M4 and a pressure washer 23, which is screwed onto the rod 24. This rod is the axis of the frictional shock-absorbing unit. The latter consists of 25 disc friction washers and springs. The force of the friction clutch is regulated by movement along the axis of the sleeve 27, which is fixed with an M3 screw. The lower support 26, the spring rests on an additional spring bar 28, which is mounted on the struts 29 on the base of the chassis 1.
To dampen vibrations that occur during the operation of the suspension, a damping spring-oil shock absorber is installed. It is attached to part 2 using a duralumin bracket (Node I). The shock absorber is connected to the upper frame of the rear axle 4 by a ball joint (Unit II).
Front suspension
The front suspension was originally simplified (section Г-Г), and consisted of the upper and lower planks 1 made of foil-coated fiberglass, interconnected by struts 2 and attached to the base of the chassis 1 through rubber washers (Unit III). The swing arm consisted of parts 3, 4, 5, assembled into one unit by soldering. Amortization was carried out with the help of a spring and by moving part 3 along axis 6. On the axis 6, grooves were made for locking washers. Two bronze plain bearings 9 were pressed into the wheel disk 8.
But I didn't like the work of such a suspension, and with the help of an article from the "Modelist-Constructor" magazine, another suspension was developed and manufactured (details are shown in the drawing to the right of the red dashed line). The base is node 1, assembled from parts 1A, two parts 1B ( fiberglass) and duralumin parts 2. Parts 1B are glued to 1A, for greater strength tightened with M2 screws; part 2 is screwed in with M2 screws. The lower suspension arm 3 consists of a base 3B and two sidewalls 3A (fiberglass 2 mm thick); after fitting and assembly, the joints are degreased and spilled with epoxy resin. Upper arm 4 consists of shackle 4A, fork 4B and axle 4B. Earring material and
forks - duralumin. The levers are attached to the base 1 using axles 15; in their places, the axles are fixed with locking washers 16. Using the same axis, a pivot rack 5 is attached to the lower lever (a factory-made part, but it is quite possible to make it from duralumin, simplifying a little). The post 5 is attached to the upper arm 4 with a fork 4B and an M3 screw. The shackle 4A is attached to the unit 1 as shown in view B (the axis of rotation 15 is fixed with locking washers 16, fluoroplastic bushings 14 serve to prevent axial displacement of the shackle). The pivot arm 6 is a piece of duralumin, a steel axle 7 is inserted into it with some interference, after which a vertical hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled under the axis of rotation 8. The axis of rotation is fixed with a lock washer.
Wheel disks 9 are turned from caprolactam. Hubs 10 are made of duralumin, fastened to the discs with three M2.5 screws. Bearings - 13x6x3, enclosed design. Wheel tires are made of microporous rubber.
Amortization is carried out using a plate 11 made of fiberglass, which is pressed against the base 1B by an M3 screw and a duralumin washer 12. The free ends of the plate rest on fluoroplastic bushings 13, which are put on the axle 15. This design allows you to adjust the stiffness of the suspension due to the thickness and width of the plate 11 rather within wide limits.
The steering gear protection sleeve is a unit shown in section B-B. Compared to the node published in the "Modeler-Constructor", it has been slightly redesigned. The base is a steel axle 1, on which a bronze part 3 is fitted into an interference fit. After that, a hole with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm is drilled in these parts together, a pin is inserted and sealed. Thus, part 1 and 3 are tightly connected. The rocker 4 is soldered to part 2, and the assembly is assembled as shown in the drawing. Axle 1 rotates in a needle bearing, which is installed in part 6 (which, in turn, is installed in the hole in the base 1). The second bearing is a nylon bushing 5, installed in part 2. The depth of the hole with a diameter of 5.2 mm on part 5 must be selected so as to ensure the minimum backlash of the axle 1 of the protective clutch, but at the same time the ease of rotation of the unit. The clutch is set in rotation using a duralumin rocker 7.
Conclusion
A few words about the model itself. The Ferrari F40 served as a prototype, so the base and width of the chassis, the diameter of the wheels were developed based on the actual dimensions of the car, on a scale of 1:10. The body is made of fiberglass, glued on a dummy. Control equipment - Graupner FM-314, steering gears - standard 508 (similar in size to HS 422 Hitec).
I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the course of my thoughts during the development and the procedure for manufacturing the chassis. It is possible that some of the nodes could have been made differently, using different materials or design solutions. I want to give a little advice to those who want to repeat this model. First, you need to select the components (gears, shock absorber, swing arms, etc .; it is quite possible that it will not be possible to select parts according to the dimensions indicated on the drawings) and materials for homemade parts. After that, you may have to make some adjustments to the drawings, and only then start manufacturing. If anyone has any questions, suggestions, criticism, I will be glad to talk on the forum.
And I decided to repeat it. From the beginning I ordered the equipment, servos, shock absorbers, which are less in front and large back. Photo not very 
found a chainsaw engine of 45 cc and 3 horsepower.
And I started making the frame. The first pancake turned out to be lumpy, because I made it from a metal profile and the frame turned out to be heavy and flaky, which did not suit me.
Then I decided to try to make something lighter and more durable. I came across a sheet of aluminum from it, then I decided to make a frame. Firstly, light and durable (to some extent) one of its minuses is that it bends, but it doesn’t matter. In order for it not to bend, I strengthened it in the center by installing 2 strips of aluminum profile. The frame turned out to be surprisingly strong 32 kg weight that can withstand how hello, and this is what I need. The length of the frame is 73 cm, width is 25 cm, thickness is 2.5 mm. Here is the actual frame. 
Then I thought about how to make a chassis, how to install the front wheels, from the beginning I wanted to use an aluminum U-shaped profile to install a suspension on it, but I couldn't find it anywhere (never thought that this was such a deficit of D). I had to buy an aluminum corner of 25 mm, but then I found out that the rophile could be bought in castoram, but it was too late, that's what happened 
the height of the corners turned out to be 6 cm. At the back, I still think about how best to do it, because the model will be rear-wheel drive and such a scheme will no longer work and do without the main parts rear suspension I do not risk it because I need to make estimates. And while I wait for the main premise, without which this machine will never budge. It comes with a set of drive axles 
the receiver is like a native, because of my stupidity burned out 
and wheel adapters
By the end of the first part, I want to show approximately how my model will look like, I will say right away the photos are not mine, I found them on the Internet. To be continued. 
1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.
5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things
1. Introduction
So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's models with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or models with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some general principles work of the model and radio control and buy everything you need for further operation.
First, let's look at Various types car models.
2. Types of car models
Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:
- by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
- by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or Electric (electric motor)
- by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)
Let's look at everything in order:
Scale
The scale of the model is indicated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale is gaining popularity (very popular among conventional, bench car models), new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.
There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese company Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - a scale of 1: 5 - this is huge cars(about a meter long) with gasoline engines.
 |  |
ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.
engine's type
Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in cans at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel to keep the engine running well and lasting a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:
Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - road models 1:10, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8
The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.
The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the 15th class engines is about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.
Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by rechargeable batteries 7.2 V and up. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.
Chassis type
The chassis is the foundation of the model. Everything is attached to it important elements- engine, electronics, etc. Different chassis types serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.
Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and racing on an absolutely flat surface. Rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with four-wheel drive(4WD).
Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Tracks- similar in design to buggy, but have a larger ground clearance and bigger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).
 |  |
 |  |
 |
|
3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison
Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:
ICE models
Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can completely destroy the model or cause costly repairs.
ICEs for car models are single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it for as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.
Models with electric motor
The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But in addition to a short driving time and a slightly lower maximum speed in all other respects, models with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.
Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. The better the batteries, the higher the price, and it increases non-linearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are charging device, which can work from 12 and from 220V.
4. Radio control (equipment)
No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models of some of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a control panel. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.
Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:
 |
3. If the driver turns wheel, then the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.
4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed Regulator).
5. The speed controller (also called the Stroke controller, Speed controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, therefore, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).
6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.
Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:
 |
1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.
2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the corresponding devices in the model.
3. If the rider turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.
4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.
5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.
6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.
The items shown above make up full list radio equipment model. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.
5. Batteries
If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered in 6 1.2V cells. There are currently two types of batteries in widespread use - Nickel Cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs allow for a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.
How batteries differ.
Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing you can not focus on them and buy more affordable batteries. In this case, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...
How many batteries should I buy?
For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with battery replacement for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.
6. Fuel
Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with the addition of varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.
7. Body models
Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are quite light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number of real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any shop for modelers.
Bodies of different manufacturers may differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time they are quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.
 | + |  | = |  |
8. List of necessary things
And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.
For model with electric motor:
- Chassis (with electric motor)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
- Speed controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
- Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
- Charger
For model with ICE:
- Chassis (with engine)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
- Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4x AA)
- Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
- Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
- Fuel
- A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
- Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)
My blog is searched for by the following phrases
