Greetings!
There are a lot of various radio-controlled (RC) equipment in the world, from very simple children's cars on the control panel to huge aircraft models reaching the size of a car. In this article, I want to talk about a part of the RC world called car modeling, about what classes of models there are, what categories they are divided into, where to start, and so on.
Details under the cut. Beware, a lot of traffic.
Model types
Monsters (Monster Truck)
The most popular class of equipment for entertainment.It is a model with high ground clearance, huge wheels, high center of gravity, accordingly very unstable.
Able to overcome any type of surface, ideal for jumping from trampolines, slides and just for fun in the country.
Buggy
As a rule, four-wheel drive. They are able to overcome any type of surface, while driving on densely packed soil will be the most optimal.It is this class that is most widely represented in competitions.
Short Course
It is a pickup truck with a short wheelbase and rear wheel drive.Has a great similarity (copy number) with real cars. Designed for the same surface as the buggy, that is, rolled soil.
Truggy
Something between a buggy and a monster.It is characterized by the presence of large, widely spaced wheels and low ground clearance. Accordingly, in this class, you can perfectly overcome a variety of obstacles, jumps, uneven ground, while the handling is worse than that of a buggy, but better than that of a monster.
An excellent compromise option.
Crawler
It is characterized by huge ground clearance, the same huge suspension travel, and low speed.Designed exclusively for accurate and leisurely overcoming obstacles.
Drift
Exceptionally road car.Designed, as the name implies, for drifting on asphalt.
Rally (rally)
Along with crawlers, a rather rare class of cars.As a rule, four-wheel drive vehicles. Differ in copy number. Designed for rolled soil.
Trophy
Differs in high copy quantity, full wire - often with continuous bridges, low speed, soft, tenacious tires.Designed for unhurried overcoming of various obstacles in the form of puddles, mud, swamps.
On popular models, a huge amount of tuning is sold in the form of cans, wheels, bodies, and so on to create an exact copy of a real trophy of cars.
Scale models
Models vary in scale from micro (1:18) to huge 1: 5 or 1: 4 up to 1 meter long.Models of scale from 1:18 to 1:12 are actually toys and do not participate in competitions, while they are not suitable as a gift for small children and are not intended for riding at home, as they are capable of speeds of 30-35 km / h.
The most interesting and popular scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. It is in these classes that the bulk of the competition and the greatest variety of models are held.
Models with a scale of 1:10 and 1: 8 can reach 50 cm in length and are not intended for riding in courtyards and crowded places, since they can reach very high speeds (up to 117 km / h HPI Vorza), and in combination with a mass ( about 4-6 kg) can cause serious injury.
The largest 1: 5 scale models are overwhelmingly driven internal combustion with a volume of 24-28 cm3 and actually repeat the design of real cars.
Engines
At the moment, car engines have four types of engines:- Electric brushed motor. Electric motors of a completely standard design with a coil, brushes. It is characterized by low power, often weak reliability and generally not interesting. It is used on inexpensive small and micro scale models. For 1:18 scale models, it can reach speeds of 25 km / h.
- Electric brushless (valve) motor (BC). It appeared in RC relatively recently, significantly pushing aside traditional models with internal combustion engines, since it produces similar power and, unlike an internal combustion engine, is much easier to operate.
- Glow carburetor engine. Used in models from 1:12 to 1: 8 scale. Fueled with fuel containing from 16% to 30% nitromethane. A very moody engine that needs fine tuning of the carburetor. It is highly not recommended for beginners or those who do not like poking around with technology. The engine is low-volume (a few cubic centimeters), but at the same time it allows you to shoot several Horse power and reach 30,000 - 40,000 revolutions.
- Petrol engines internal combustion. Used in 1: 5 scale models. Fueled with AI 92-95 gasoline. Engines are much less capricious than low-volume glow motors
Prices
The prices for car models, in contrast to aircraft models, have their own clear limits. So the prices for Chinese models 1:18 with collector motors start at 3000 rubles (~ 80 usd). With a more powerful brushless motor, the price reaches 4500 rubles (~ 130usd). The price range for hobby models (not sports) of a more interesting scale (1:10, 1: 8) varies from 10,000 rubles to 25,000 (300 - 700 usd). The most expensive are models of a scale of 1: 5, prices can reach 40 - 70 thousand rubles (1200 - 2000 usd).Configuration (delivery options)
There are two types of delivery of models:- RTR - ready to run. Such a complete set means that the model is assembled and completely ready for races. But it should be borne in mind that batteries, charger and so on may not be included in the kit. Usually they are included in the kit only for very budget devices. Also, if you buy a model with an internal combustion engine, you will definitely need to purchase a glow plug, batteries, fuel, a thermometer, and so on.
- Kit. Such a complete set means that for the final assembly of the model, in addition to batteries, chargers, etc., you will need an engine, equipment (remote control with a receiver) wheels, an engine speed regulator, and so on. The whales are for athletes and not for beginners. Such kits are usually supplied in the maximum tuning and it is assumed that the athlete already has all the additional body kit.
Equipment (appa)
One of the most important parts of an RC hobby is hardware: remote control, receiver, telemetry. There are a large number of options on the market from very simple and budget options for 2-channel equipment for 15-20 bucks:
Up to a fancy 4-channel, with telemetry, a bunch of settings and other chips and a price of 600 usd:
The design of a car on the example of my traggie ICE
General picture from the official website:
The model is all-wheel drive. Three differentials. 4.6 cm3 engine, 2.9 hp Two cardan shafts diverging from the center differential to the front and rear. The center differential has two disc brakes... A glow-type engine, which means that to start the engine, the candle must be heated with a special glow, and then the candle spiral keeps the temperature itself.
Bottom deck:
The bottom deck is a 4.5 mm thick aluminum plate with holes for starting the motor using the starter table.
Front Suspension Design:
The design of the front suspension is in fact not much inferior to real cars in complexity and greatly surpasses them in terms of reliability, so falls from a height of 2 meters onto the ground with a dozen overturns, as a rule, pass for a car without any breakdowns.
Which model should I buy?
The question is complex, and as in the case of computers, you must first decide on the budget and tasks. So for example, if you just want to drive on the model, jump from trampolines and just get fun, then your choice is a monster - for example, HPI Savage. Are you interested in big cars On the 5th scale, you can look towards the HPI Baja 5T. On a number of forums there are special topics for beginners dedicated to the choice of technology - links at the bottom of the article.Brands (manufacturers)
A large number of manufacturers are currently represented on the market. You can try to divide them into three categories:- Purebred Chinese: Iron Track, Himoto, BSD Racing, VRX Racing, HSP. Favorably differ in price, while reliability and thoughtfulness of the design may suffer. You can buy it as the first model in order to understand whether you like it or not, gain experience in repair and operation.
- RTR models from US, UK and Japan manufacturers: HPI, KYOSHO, Team Associated, HOTBODIES, Traxxas, Maverick, Team Losi. On average, "hospitals" are more reliable and well thought-out than the Chinese at a slightly higher price. In the case of manufacturers from middle group it is necessary to consider each model separately, since each brand has both high-quality successful models and not high-quality ones
- Whales from Xrax, KYOSHO, Durango, Team Associated. Uncompromising sportsmen's models in full tuning. A whale alone can cost more than the same model in the RTR version, and do not forget that you need to buy an app, an engine, wheels, a speed controller and so on for it. With an average cost of an RTR model of 20 thousand rubles (600 usd), a prepared version for a competition based on a whale can cost up to 60 - 70 thousand (2000 - 2300 usd).
Competitions
For fans of RC hobbies, competitions are held both at the regional level and at the all-Russian level. Competitions, as a rule, have strict regulations and are generally divided into the following classes:- Buggy 1:10 4wd electro
- Buggy 1: 8 4wd electro
- Buggy 1:10 4wd nitro
- Buggy 1: 8 4wd nitro
- Hobby unlim 1: 8
If you decide that you want to participate in competitions, think carefully about whether you need it, because like any sport, RC racing requires a lot of time, money, knowledge and patience. As I mentioned above, prepare new model from scratch for competitions based on a whale, it can cost 60 - 70 thousand rubles. A used one can be found for 25-35 thousand.
Nitro or electro
Before the advent of BC systems, ICEs ruled in the world of car modeling, since collector motors have much less power. With the advent of brushless (valve) electric motors, the scales swayed in the opposite direction, since electric motors with comparable ICE capacity there are a number of advantages, such as silence, reliability, no need to set up, run in, no need to start, maintenance is much easier, and so on. At the same time, there is a drawback in the form of the need to charge the batteries and swelling the batteries at sub-zero temperatures.From myself, I can notice that when I was choosing a serious model, the choice was made on the ICE version, which I later regretted more than once, since maintenance, tuning, etc. take a lot of time, but you can ride while there is fuel, and the frantic roar of the engine in a compartment with a cloud of smoke does not leave indifferent more than one passer-by.
How to start?
In order to understand whether you like it or not, he will decide on the model and, in general, I advise you to come and look at the competitions, pokatushki. The people are usually responsive and sociable, they will help and prompt, because they themselves once started that way. It is also worth asking questions on the RC hobby forums.In St. Petersburg, you can come and talk to the race track called "Under the Bridge":
Instructions
Self-assembly of the machine does not have several advantages. You will not only save money, but you can also make exactly what you want. First of all, decide on the amount you are willing to spend. The range of spare parts and types is very large, the range of prices is also very large. When the amount is determined, then start developing a small building plan. Decide which car you want. You can do it simply on a wired control, or you can use a radio control, which will cost a little more.
Choose a chassis for your future car. Now you can find a huge number of different chassis, and they are all interchangeable. When buying, pay attention to the quality of the parts. There should be no blotches or chipping on plastic parts. The front wheels should turn easily. Wheels are usually sold with the chassis. They should also be given great attention... It is best to buy casters with rubber, as plastic ones have very poor grip.
The next step is motor selection. This is the most important step as you choose the heart of your future car. Dynamics and dynamics will largely depend on it. specifications future model... There are two types of motors for the models - electric and gasoline. Electric motors are unpretentious in maintenance and have a relatively low price. They are very economical as they are powered by rechargeable batteries that are easy to recharge. Gasoline engines are more powerful, but they are more expensive and require careful maintenance. And special fuel has a significant price. If you are new to modeling, then feel free to choose an electric motor. You will save money and time.
Now you need to decide what type of control will be - wired or wireless. Wire control is cheaper, but the car will only roll within a radius equal to the length of the wire. The radio unit costs a little more, but allows you to drive the car within the antenna coverage distance. It is best to overpay a little and buy a radio unit. Also think about the body of your car. On store shelves, you can find cases of almost all modern car models. You can also make a body according to your own unique sketch.
Now you need to collect all the components. Take the chassis and attach the motor and radio unit. Install the antenna. Together with the components, you should be sold the assembly instructions, in which you can find in detail the connection diagram of the parts. Install batteries and antenna. Adjust the motor. When everything is in sync, attach the car body to the chassis. Now all that remains is to decorate the car to your taste.
1. Introduction
2. Types of car models
3. Internal combustion engine versus Electro. Comparison.
5. Batteries
6. Fuel
7. Body models
8. List of necessary things
1. Introduction
So, you are interested in radio-controlled car models. Whether it's models with an internal combustion engine (ICE) or models with an electric motor, this article will help you determine what you prefer, understand some general principles work of the model and radio control and buy everything you need for further operation.
First, let's look at Various types car models.
2. Types of car models
Radio controlled car models can be classified as follows:
- by scale (size): 1:12, 1:10, 1: 8
- by engine type: ICE (or nitro) (internal combustion engine) or Electric (electric motor)
- by chassis type: Road, Formula 1, Buggy, Truck, Monster trucks (or Monsters)
Let's look at everything in order:
Scale
The scale of the model is indicated as for example 1:10 (or 1/10). The most common scales are 1:10 and 1: 8. The 1:12 scale is getting pretty rare. The 1:18 scale is gaining popularity (very popular among conventional, bench car models), new models of both road cars and monsters appear in it.
There are also 1:24 and 1:28 scales in which the Japanese company Kyosho makes the Mini-Z series, but these scales are approximate, they are indicated as an average for the series.
And finally, at the other extreme - 1: 5 scale - these are huge cars (about a meter long) with gasoline engines.
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ICE (left) and electric motor. The proportions are not met! Usually the electric motor is much smaller than the internal combustion engine.
engine's type
Engines on the models are as follows: Internal combustion engine (ICE, also the term Nitro is used) and Electric motors.
Internal combustion engines (in the picture on the left) run on a mixture of methanol, nitromethane and oil. This fuel is sold in cans at model stores. It is better to use high quality branded fuel to keep the engine running well and lasting a long time. ICEs are divided into classes according to their working volume:
Grade 12 (2.11cc) - 1:10 scale road models
15th grade (2.5cc) - road models 1:10, buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
18th grade (3.0 cc) - buggies, trucks, monsters 1:10
21st class (3.5cc) - road 1: 8, buggies and monsters 1: 8
25th class (4.1 cc) - buggies and monsters 1: 8
The name of the classes comes from the American classification of volume in cubic inches. So, for example, the 15th class means that the engine volume is 0.15 cubic meters. inch. When converted to cubic centimeters, it turns out: 0.15 * 2.543 = 2.458 cubic meters. cm, i.e. about 2.5.
The higher the class, the larger the engine displacement, the higher the power. For example: the power of the 15th class engines is about 0.6 hp. up to 1.2 HP Engines of the 25th class already develop 2.5 hp. and more.
Electric motors (pictured to the right) are usually powered by rechargeable batteries 7.2 V and up. Batteries are soldered from elements of 1.2 V. They also sell separate elements for soldering and ready-made batteries.
Electric motors are classified by the length of the wire wound inside (by the number of turns) - 10 turns, 11 turns, 16 turns, 24 turns, etc. The fewer the number of turns, the faster the engine.
Chassis type
The chassis is the foundation of the model. Everything is attached to it important elements- engine, electronics, etc. Different chassis types serve different purposes and are designed based on the application.
Formula 1- designed for the development of high speeds and racing on an absolutely flat surface. Rear-wheel drive (2WD), although there are models with four-wheel drive(4WD).
Buggy- for off-road racing (sand, clay, gravel, mud), can jump from trampolines. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Tracks- similar in design to buggy, but have a larger ground clearance and bigger wheels. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Monsters- have huge wheels and are able to overcome any obstacles and ride on any surface. The long suspension travel allows you to jump from high jumps and do whatever you want. Drive - full (4WD) or rear (2WD).
Road models- are able to ride on a flat surface and have high speed and good handling. Drive - full (4WD), less often rear (2WD).
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3. Internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) versus Electro. Comparison
Before making a choice, you need to weigh the pros and cons of each type of engine. A correct understanding of the advantages and disadvantages of models with an electric motor and with an internal combustion engine will help to rationally spend money and avoid problems and disappointments. So:
ICE models
Many ICE models are faster than electric models and can exceed speeds of 70-80 km / h. Be that as it may, hitting a curb or wall at 70 km / h can completely destroy the model or cause costly repairs.
ICE for car models - single-cylinder two-stroke engines, which means that they need fuel (not gasoline, but special fuel). This means that you will have to regularly buy fuel for the model (the approximate price of 4 liters of good fuel is $ 45, however, the canister lasts quite a long time). The advantage of a model with an internal combustion engine is that you can drive it for as long as you like - the main thing is to fill the tank with fuel. As a rule, models with internal combustion engines are more expensive than models with an electric motor (due to the higher cost of the engine itself). Among the significant advantages of models with internal combustion engines is realistic sound.
Models with electric motor
The main disadvantage of electric models is that the battery runs out quickly. You are unlikely to be able to drive continuously for more than 15 minutes on a single charge. But in addition to a short driving time and a slightly lower maximum speed in all other respects, models with an electric motor turn out to be better. The main advantage of models with an electric motor is their silence, environmental friendliness and much better acceleration compared to models with an internal combustion engine.
Be that as it may, you still have to buy some additional equipment for the model - batteries and a charger. Batteries cost from $ 15 and differ in capacity and current output. How better batteries, the higher the price, and it increases nonlinearly. The chargers work either from 12V (powered by a cigarette lighter or a conventional car battery), or 220V (mains). There are charging device, which can work from 12 and from 220V.
4. Radio control (equipment)
No matter what type of chassis and what scale you choose, you need a radio control system for the model. Many companies make models of some of their models in the form of RTR (Ready To Run) - ready to use right out of the box - they are usually already assembled and include everything you need, including a remote control. However, some of the models are still sold as an assembly kit and control equipment will have to be purchased additionally. Let's take a look at the principle of model driving.
Radio control system for a car model with an electric motor:
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3. If the driver turns wheel, then the Receiver will send a signal to the Servo (also called Servo), forcing it to turn in the right direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.
4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to the Regulator (Speed Regulator).
5. The speed controller (also called the Stroke controller, Speed controller) changes the speed of the electric motor and, consequently, the speed of the model (the engine is connected to the wheels by a system of belts and / or cardan shafts).
6. The battery is used to power the Motor, Servo 1, Receiver and ESC. If the model has an electronic speed controller, then the battery is connected to it, and the controller distributes power to the motor, receiver and servo.
Radio control system for a car model with an internal combustion engine:
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1. When the rider pulls the trigger or turns the steering wheel on the Control Panel, a signal is sent to the Model Receiver.
2. The receiver receives the signal, processes it and sends the signal to the corresponding devices in the model.
3. If the rider turns the steering wheel, the Receiver will send a signal to Servo 1, forcing it to turn in the desired direction. Through the linkage system, this servo turn causes the model wheels to turn.
4. If the rider pulls the trigger, the Receiver sends a signal to Servo 2.
5. Servo 2 moves the carburetor choke, which changes the flow of the fuel / air mixture and therefore the engine RPM and model speed.
6. The battery is used to power the Receiver, Servo 1 and Servo 2.
The items shown above make up full list radio equipment model. All of these elements are required to drive the model. ESCs are usually sold separately, while the remote control, receiver and servos are sold separately or all in one kit.
5. Batteries
If you decide to buy a model with an electric motor, you will need batteries. Car models usually use 7.2V batteries, which are soldered in 6 1.2V cells. At the moment, there are two types of batteries widely used - Nickel-cadmium (NiCd) and Nickel-metal hydride (NiMH). Each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, but NiMHs allow for a large battery capacity and have little or no memory effect.
How batteries differ.
Batteries are characterized by many parameters - internal resistance, average voltage, discharge current, etc. The exact values of these parameters are given for expensive batteries for serious sports, for hobbies and amateur racing you can not focus on them and buy more affordable batteries. In this case, the most important parameters are the type of battery (NiCd or NiMH) and its capacity (measured in mAh, for example 2400 mAh), it is indicated on the batteries in large numbers. The higher the capacity, the longer you can ride the model. The price, however, also increases ...
How many batteries should I buy?
For a start, it would be good to buy 2-3 batteries, which will allow you to ride with replacement batteries for a long time. As for the capacity, it is better not to buy batteries with a capacity of less than 1500mAh, otherwise the driving time will be very short.
6. Fuel
Internal combustion engines for models cannot run on regular gasoline. They require a special fuel based on methanol and with the addition of varying amounts of nitromethane and oil. Nitromethane improves engine performance, and its content in car fuels is typically 16 to 25%. The oil in the fuel helps lubricate the engine and protect it from damage. Fuel cans usually indicate the nitromethane content and the type of model for which the fuel is applicable.
7. Body models
Bodies for car models are made of special plastic - polycarbonate (Lexan). The bodies are quite light and flexible so as not to break when struck. Models can be sold with or without a body. But you can always buy a body separately - fortunately, a great variety of bodies are available, copying a huge number real cars.
Bodies are sold already painted or unpainted (transparent). The transparent body is painted from the inside with a special paint for polycarbonate, which can be found in any shop for modelers.
Bodies of different manufacturers may differ in the degree of detail and strength: some bodies are well-designed, accurately copy the original, but at the same time they are quite fragile. Other bodies contain less detail but are more resilient and impact resistant. If you are a beginner, then try to choose more flexible bodies, because accidents are inevitable in the beginning and happen more often than it seems at first glance.
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8. List of necessary things
And, finally, a complete list of what you should buy for the model for its full functioning, start and maintenance.
For model with electric motor:
- Chassis (with electric motor)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 1 servo)
- Speed controller (depends on the motor model, consult your dealer)
- Batteries (buy at least 2 batteries with a capacity of at least 1500mAh)
- Charger
For model with ICE:
- Chassis (with engine)
- Radio control (the kit must contain 1 remote control, 1 receiver and 2 servos)
- Rechargeable batteries or batteries (for powering the receiver and servos, usually 4x AA)
- Body (if it was not included with the chassis)
- Body paint (it is better to buy 2 spray cans)
- Fuel
- A bottle for filling fuel into the model's tank
- Glow plug device (called glowstart in English)
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Psychologists say that doing something interesting together brings children and parents closer together. Dad for a boy is always and in everything an example. Unfortunately, fathers do not always understand what to do with their child, other than watching TV. We suggest you learn how to do This activity will please both "boys": both the son and the father. Mom, most likely, will not be able to intervene in this process. Simply because of their ignorance in the radio business.
Lesson only for dad and son
Sometimes it seems that only mothers take care of raising a child, and fathers only earn money. However, the role of the dad in the formation of the character of the baby, especially the son, is no less than that of the mother. It happens that a tired father has no time to play with his child in his noisy and funny games. However, it must be remembered that a moment may come when the son will simply stop looking for opportunities to communicate with dad, if he constantly does not find time for this. In the end, there is a misunderstanding between dad and son, which in adolescence is already quite difficult to overcome. A ready-made set or an independent attempt to figure out how to make a typewriter on the control panel will help father and child strengthen their relationship and understanding.
What is the reason for the paternal removal from his son? Sometimes this is the usual inexperience, a kind of fear that appears in young dads, especially if the mother practically does not let the father near the baby.
Where to start collaborative work
The simplest option (if you do not take into account the usual purchase of a ready-made model) is a construction machine assembled according to the instructions. The kit contains all the necessary parts, you just need time and diligence. A couple of evenings after work - and the radio-controlled toy is ready. And how much joy both the son and the dad will receive when the model goes!
Another, more difficult option is inventing and assembling cars from scratch. In this case, it will take more time, and details will have to be looked for, and common work, a joint business will bring more emotions.
What to choose: a copy or just a car without a brand
Some advanced craftsmen create and collect exact mini-copies of real cars. It happens like this:
- firstly, the machine on the remote control is carefully assembled with its own hands, moreover, through family efforts;
- secondly, the model may not be made of the same materials as the original;
- thirdly, some minor details may be omitted.
Everything else, down to the engine and fuel, is done with meticulous precision. Some craftsmen are doing the assembly collectible models, which are exact copies of real, real cars.
On the control panel? You can collect a half-copy, that is, a copy that resembles outward appearance selected original. And you can come up with a model "on a free theme" without getting hung up on any particular form. The dimensions of the car, in principle, do not matter. They also make small home models, jeeps or cars, and real radio-controlled mini-cars. It all depends on the desire, the allotted time and finances. Any activity that the son and dad are engaged in together will strengthen the father's authority in the eyes of the child.
What parts to prepare for the model to go
How to make a typewriter on the control panel? It all starts with a project. For work, you need to prepare not only a list of various parts and components, but all necessary tools... This will make the process more fun and organized. So, what you need to assemble the car:
- a motor (from a hair dryer, from a small fan) or a mini gasoline engine;
- frame;
- body;
- set of rubber wheels;
- what real cars call "shaft";
- suspension or chassis;
- 2 axles for wheel mounting;
- antenna;
- thin connecting wires;
- rechargeable batteries for powering the electric motor or gasoline (if the engine is an internal combustion engine);
- signal receiver;
- control panel (transmitter or radio unit).
From the tools you will need pliers, a soldering iron, various screwdrivers and small wrenches, electrical tape, superglue, bolts, washers, nuts and other fasteners. All missing tools, parts and components are either made independently or bought in specialized stores.
How is it all done and what will happen in the end
As you prepare the parts according to the plan for how to make a remote control typewriter, you may find that you need to buy some of them. The frame and body can be adapted from an old toy. Surely there are several boring or broken children's cars at home, from which you can take some of the missing parts.
The motor must be checked in advance for operability. Its power should correspond to the weight of the future car. A weak engine will not pull a heavy model. All work can be reduced to zero. The batteries must be fresh or rechargeable. The assembly sequence is as follows:
- The frame is assembled first.
- The motor is fastened and adjusted.
- Batteries or accumulator are installed.
- The next step is to secure the antenna.
- The wheels are installed so that they can easily rotate with the axle. If this is not done, the car will not be able to turn, it will only drive straight forward and backward.
It is preferable to take rubber tires, since they move better not only on the floor of the apartment, but also on open ground. If you like the process and manage to figure out how to make a car on the control panel, you can build several different copies, teach neighbor dads and boys, and arrange mini-races over rough terrain right in the yard.
If you are accustomed to "turning the nuts" since childhood, the best gift for you was a designer, and you prefer to repair a bicycle-moped-motorcycle or a car with your own hands, then this article will most likely reveal quite a bit new for you. Assembling a radio-controlled car is not particularly difficult, in particular, if you have an idea of what and where it should be, and how to work.
For those beginners who only roughly understand how both a large car and its small copy work, this article will be extremely useful.
First of all, you need to decide on the purchase of the chassis. As mentioned in one of our articles, cars are supplied in RTR configuration - fully assembled and prepared for travel and in KIT-kits for construction (which, in turn, are divided into three types, according to the professional level).
Those who choose the RTR kit, do not think that the assembly is "over" for you and you can safely ride. Not at all. Optimally, you need to disassemble and reassemble your car! The fact is that the factory assembly is often "uneven" - somewhere the bolt is not enough, somewhere there is no lock (Thread-Lock), it is possible that the camber is made incorrectly or the gearbox gears are not exposed. Driving an untested typewriter is the risk of breaking it on the very first day. Besides, disassembling-assembling the model is the best way to study it thoroughly. Therefore, be patient and carefully read this article, perhaps the information contained in it will be useful to you.
Study the instructions and packaging!
Please read the instructions supplied with your model carefully. We will proceed from the assumption that we have a KIT set, while the owners of the RTR model will simply disassemble (in reverse order) and then assemble. Make sure you understand all names and terms. Check the package, all available parts must be within specification.
Pay attention to the length of the bolts and screws where they are located. They must be long enough for a secure fit. Remember, the manufacturer does not supply bolts or screws that are too long or too short. If the bolt is longer than you need at the attachment point, then it's not from here! And somewhere, in another place, he will be missed.
Do not confuse left and right side, front and back knots. You need to watch along the way of the car, then all sides and parts will correspond to their correct installation.
For assembly, it is best to allocate a spacious table and a desk lamp for bright local lighting.
It is better to spread a light dense fabric on the table - all small details are clearly visible on it. In addition, we recommend stocking a low box with small compartments, into which you can put small parts. Protect your assembly area from the sudden interference of small children and animals.
To work you need a set of tools:
Small pliers.
A set of cross-head and straight-head screwdrivers. You will need small to medium sized screwdrivers.
Small side pliers. Pliers, side cutters, nail file, knife can replace a high-quality multitool.
Scalpel or special knife with replaceable blades.
Hexagon set.
Caliper.
The assembly of the model should be done according to the instructions. It's not very difficult, but there are some subtleties.
1.Details from the printed circuit board should be nibbled off with side cutters, after which the attachment point should be cleaned up with a scalpel.
2.Bolts and screws must be tightened without overstressing. If you have difficulty in screwing in a screw, lubricate it with soap (for this, get yourself a technical block).
3.Use Thread-Lock to prevent screws and bolts from loosening. As a rule, the instructions indicate where it is applied without fail. But, if you feel that some not specified node can unwind, it is better to fix it. Typically all bolt-to-nut connections are provided with Thread-Lock.
4. Lubricate the gears, but wisely! Do not lubricate bare gears, as dirt will immediately adhere to them.
5.Check and adjust the gap if necessary. the main couple.
To check the gap between the gears, put a piece of paper between them and scroll the gear (should describe full circle). If all the teeth are printed on the sheet, then the gap is set correctly. If there are gaps, you need to tighten the gears a little.
After assembling the chassis (assembling the model - chassis, engine, transmission, etc.), proceed with the installation of the equipment. Center the servos. To do this, you need to set the neutral position of the trims and turn on the transmitter and receiver (with the steering servos connected to it). The servos will immediately move to the center position.
When installing the receiver, try to install it as far as possible from the battery, governor, power circuits. Move the antenna as far away as possible from possible sources of radio interference.
Deciding to purchase a battery for onboard food do not miss the voltage, size, number of cans.
When gluing rubber to discs, be sure to wash off the factory preservative! Wash the rubber with soap and dry. Before gluing the rubber, apply risks to the discs (in the places of gluing), for example, with coarse sandpaper.
If you have directional rubber, make sure it is glued in the correct orientation.
