I hate unfinished projects, so I didn't post a single photo of this model before it was fully built. Finally, my skill crossed with my aspirations. The model was built for half a year. Well, let me tell you how and what I came to.
I think many remember an article about a homemade traggy from Sergei Erastov from Saratov (),
so it was this article that spurred me to build this model.
Before that, I was building a model something like a monster with rear wheel drive. 
The quality was poor, so I decided to search the internet for a good example of a homemade car. I came across either unfinished buildings, or constructions made of purchased parts, or such models that I could walk to as far as the moon, and the first were ten times more. I will not say that all this time I was sitting around, I just didn’t do anything particularly interesting, let's say, I improved my skills. But then I came across an article by Sergei, his easy approach to business amazed me, simple plastic parts, rather neat assembly, except that the proprietary gearbox confused me a little, well, in principle, it's clear, it's more than difficult to make the differential yourself. And I thought, monsters are no longer for me, it is necessary to build something like a traggy, Sergei has already expressed its advantages. So I started developing. It was decided to raise the bar, I decided to make a four-wheel drive without using proprietary gearboxes, I refused differentials, because I had bitter experience in their construction, the latter structure shattered to pieces when testing the model, although it worked flawlessly at low speeds. I learned how to make cardan joints, for this special thanks to the self-similar laboratory! The first telescopic drives were criticized by my friend, referring to their flimsy, so I made more powerful stainless steel (all gimbals are made of tube, the first 4x6 mm, the second 4x8 mm). If the cross in the first version consisted of millimeter pins, then in the second version there were 1.5 mm pins. I made telescopic gimbals to compensate for the runout, and the suspension geometry did not allow them to be of constant length. 
At first I tried to make four-wheel drive on my old model, in the end, the foundation is already there ... But in the end, only a couple of pins remained from the old model, and I think this approach is correct. if you want to come, you always have to adapt to what you have, so the fewer parts you have, the easier it is to develop a design.
In our aircraft modeling club, a CNC machine appeared, so it became a little easier for me in terms of making precise parts, but on this machine only gearbox parts and several bushings of plywood with a thickness of 3 mm and 10 mm were made for the model. For the model, I developed a universal gearbox that could work from different motors, from the 280th type to the 400th type, the motors could be put in pairs of the same type naturally.
If front axle was with an independent suspension, then from behind I thought that the dependent would come off, maybe in vain, but this cannot be changed. From the gearbox to the bridges, rotation was transmitted through tubes with slots for pins, this design worked roughly like the CV joints on branded models, only instead of a ball, the tube was centered by a rubber gasket, and I must say that it really worked well, at small angles (up to about 20 degrees) movement transmitted without problems. 
I installed a 380 brushless motor, the equipment and the battery I fixed on the "second floor", it was time for testing. 
AND 
here is the first exit, at first everything was fine, the car tore sharply and overcame irregularities in the yard, but in less than a minute something began to slip, and the car stopped. The plastic bevel gears brought the design, I did not expect from them. No cardans, no aluminum tubes, no plywood gearbox, namely gears. I was in despair, because I could not replace them with anything better, they did not break, their teeth did not grind, they just slipped, no matter how hard I pressed them. I had already given up the all-wheel drive, fixed the gearbox on the rear axle and rolled like that, but fortunately I got a chain drive from Tamiya. It was a prefabricated plastic chain and a few stars, I ordered this kit for a trial, but it so happened that it came in handy to me earlier than I thought.
I remade the axles for a chain drive, left the gearbox on the rear axle, hoping that if the four-wheel drive flies, at least the rear will remain. The model was tested, it turned out to be very playful, the lack of differentials, it seemed to me, did not greatly affect the handling. I set to work on the body.
The body is glued from PVC with a thickness of 2 mm and 5 mm, I did not bother much with the shape and built something like a brick, because if it scatters during tests it will not be so sorry, but the first anti wing I got is a very complex shape. Well, of course, the figured anti-wing flew off during the tests, so I simplified it.
Well, in the end, the model drives fast off-road, it looks pretty good in my opinion, in general, everything I wanted.
Purchased parts:
-Ball tips of two types,
-Plastic tamiya ladder chain sprocket set
- FLYSKY FS-GT3B 2.4G 3ch Radio Equipment and TP MG995 RC Metal Gear 55g Servo High Speed & Torque 13KG
- 380 type brushless motor with speed controller
From free details:
-Gears
-Metal corners
Here's a video:
Here is a photo: 
And here are the details that were not included in the final design: 
And here is a photo of my model next to a friend's model, by the way, she is also homemade with front-wheel drive 
Here is a photo of the insides: 
Yes, there were many breakdowns, but I learned a lot from them:
1) It is better to use spur gears only.
2) The fixed position of all gears is always better than the adjustable one.
3) Plastic gears are best secured through an intermediate metal piece.
4) Four-wheel drive still not a panacea, you can ride well without it.
5) The 1/16 scale is not convenient either for construction or for pokatushki, it is better to build 1/10 right away.
Am I successful? In the construction of the model, yes, it drives, even not bad. But I will not advise anyone to repeat this design, everything is too difficult here, but the reason simple drawing was done almost in parallel with the model, and action should never be ahead of thought. My challenge for the future is to design a chassis for competition.
I have been engaged in aircraft modeling since early childhood, but I am also not indifferent to car models. Unfortunately, I grew up in a generation where the surprise is not branded car models, but homemade ones. With the advent of mass toy and sports branded car models, home-made vehicles have gradually gone off the track, now a car model is what stands on the window of a specialized store ... This does not suit me at all. Understand, I am not against purchased models, I myself have them, let them be, not everyone can build home-made ones, I just don't like that purchased models completely displace home-made structures from the track, and after all, auto modeling was originally a sport of skillful guys who were not afraid to build complex ones and reliable designs.
DIY modelers, live, unite, diversify our type of modeling!
With your own hands - for many, this phrase is associated primarily with a jigsaw for metal, a soldering iron and other hand-made tools. It is really possible to make your own model from absolute scratch - grinding every detail yourself - but it is a rather complicated, time-consuming and very demanding process on your own skills. Therefore, now we will talk about a simpler and more accessible option: how to collect radio-controlled car at home.
How it works?
Modern radio-controlled models can be divided into two large groups:
- RTR. Fully ready-to-use cars,. That is, took the model out of the box, put the battery in - and off you go to the races;
- Kit. Delivery option for advanced users: instead of the assembled machine, a set of spare parts comes, to which you add your own - custom - spare parts, eventually assembling the model of your dreams yourself.
Note : the option in which you buy all spare parts separately is not much different from. You just do not use ready-made kits, but, nevertheless, you use factory spare parts.
Why do you need a DIY RC model at all? Exactly the same as any custom: to stand out in the crowd, to make your car unique. Moreover, assembly from ready-made parts is less demanding on skill than “working with a file”.
What parts do you need?
As a rule, if you have chosen a Kit, then only the chassis and case are included in its package. Additionally, you will need ( we are considering an option with an electric machine):
- Engine;
- Radio equipment: control panel, receiver, telemetry;
- Wheels;
- Battery;
- Discs, inserts, etc.
Ultimately, it all depends on the specific kit for assembling a radio-controlled model of a car with your own hands: some, for example, do not have a body, and it is purchased separately.
Is it difficult to build a Kit?
It is at the Kit'a assembly stage that difficulties usually arise: the parts are numbered, they come with detailed instructions- do everything carefully, and there will be no problems. Difficulties most often arise when combining the chassis with the rest of the components, so we advise again: before buying an engine and other spare parts attentively study the selected Kit and its characteristics. An excellent choice would be to read thematic forums: surely someone has already worked with this Kit - and, most likely, this someone will willingly share their experience.
Plastic or aluminum?
The answer to this question largely depends on which brand we are talking about, but more on that below. If we compare "in a vacuum" - and good plastic with good aluminum - the picture looks like this:
- Plastic: lighter, better absorbing impact, regains its shape after collisions. But, at the same time, with too strong blow the plastic cracks and breaks, it will be almost impossible to fix it - a part for replacement. In addition, over time, the seats of the shafts and bearings loosen on plastic parts, which causes backlash - again you have to change the part;
- Aluminum... It is repairable and practically does not deform over time, but good aluminum costs more than good plastic. Bad aluminum is usually quite fragile and literally crumbles at a level of stress that high-quality plastic will not even notice. And it costs about the same.
Parts manufacturers
There are three most interesting brands:
- RPM. The best plastic on the market. Perfect quality, high strength, exceptional durability - what you need to make an indestructible rc model with your own hands. The brand has only two drawbacks: the high price and the obvious imprisonment for American cars, like, most likely, RPM spare parts cannot be supplied to the "Chinese";
- Integy. Aluminum parts, good balance between price and quality. If you still prefer metal to plastic, you may well think about choosing this brand. Well, yes: aluminum looks great!
- Pro-Line... Another great - and quite versatile - brand. The best choice if you are going to work with non-American Kit. Among the advantages of the brand: 5 years on the market, a bunch of awards, a very wide range and an acceptable pricing policy.
General conclusions on do-it-yourself typewriters
If you follow the instructions carefully and take your time, there is nothing prohibitively difficult in assembling an RC model yourself. The main thing is to use high-quality components from a well-known brand, they fall into place without problems. Well, we recommend starting with Kit'a simpler, and then, having received the first experience, raise the bar of custom.
Psychologists say that doing something interesting together brings children and parents closer together. Dad for a boy is always and in everything an example. Unfortunately, fathers do not always understand what to do with their child, other than watching TV. We suggest you find out how to do This activity will please both "boys": both the son and the father. Mom, most likely, will not be able to intervene in this process. Simply because of their ignorance in the radio business.
Lesson only for dad and son
Sometimes it seems that only mothers take care of raising a child, and fathers only earn money. However, the role of the dad in the formation of the character of the baby, especially the son, is no less than that of the mother. It happens that a tired father has no time to play with his child in his noisy and funny games. However, it must be remembered that a moment may come when the son will simply stop looking for opportunities to communicate with dad, if he constantly does not find time for this. In the end, there is a misunderstanding between dad and son, which in adolescence is already quite difficult to overcome. A ready-made set or an independent attempt to figure out how to make a typewriter on the control panel will help the father and child strengthen their relationship and understanding.
What is the reason for the paternal removal from his son? Sometimes this is the usual inexperience, a kind of fear that appears in young dads, especially if the mother practically does not let the father near the baby.
Where to start collaborative work
The simplest option (if you do not take into account the usual purchase of a finished model) is a construction machine assembled according to the instructions. The kit contains all the necessary parts, you just need time and diligence. A couple of evenings after work - and the radio-controlled toy is ready. And how much joy both son and dad will get when the model goes!
Another, more difficult option is to invent and assemble cars from scratch. In this case, it will take more time, and details will have to be looked for, and common work, a joint business will bring more emotions.
What to choose: a copy or just a car without a brand
Some advanced craftsmen create and collect exact mini-copies real cars... It happens like this:
- firstly, the machine on the remote control is carefully assembled with its own hands, moreover, through family efforts;
- secondly, the model may be made of materials other than the original;
- thirdly, some minor details may be omitted.
Everything else, down to the engine and fuel, is done with meticulous precision. Some craftsmen are doing the assembly collectible models, which are exact copies of real, real cars.
On the control panel? You can collect a half-copy, that is, a copy that resembles appearance selected original. And you can come up with a model "on a free theme" without getting hung up on any particular form. The dimensions of the car, in principle, do not matter. They also make small home models, jeeps or cars, and real radio-controlled mini-cars. It all depends on the desire, the allotted time and finances. Any activity that the son and dad are engaged in together will strengthen the father's authority in the eyes of the child.
What parts to prepare for the model to go
How to make a typewriter on the control panel? It all starts with a project. For work, you need to prepare not only a list of various parts and components, but also all the necessary tools. This will make the process more fun and organized. So, what you need to assemble the car:
- a motor (from a hair dryer, from a small fan) or a mini gasoline engine;
- frame;
- body;
- set of rubber wheels;
- what real cars call "shaft";
- suspension or chassis;
- 2 axles for wheel mounting;
- antenna;
- thin connecting wires;
- rechargeable batteries for powering the electric motor or gasoline (if the engine is an internal combustion engine);
- signal receiver;
- control panel (transmitter or radio unit).
From the tools you will need pliers, a soldering iron, various screwdrivers and small wrenches, electrical tape, superglue, bolts, washers, nuts and other fasteners. All missing tools, parts and components are either made independently or bought in specialized stores.
How is it all done and what will happen in the end
As you prepare the parts according to the plan for how to make a remote control typewriter, you may find that you need to buy some of them. The frame and body can be adapted from an old toy. Surely there are several boring or broken children's cars at home, from which you can take some missing parts.
The motor must be checked in advance for operability. Its power should correspond to the weight of the future car. A weak engine will not pull a heavy model. All work can be reduced to zero. The batteries must be fresh or rechargeable. The assembly sequence is as follows:
- The frame is assembled first.
- The motor is fastened and adjusted.
- Batteries or accumulator are installed.
- The next step is to secure the antenna.
- The wheels are set so that they can easily rotate with the axle. If this is not done, the car will not be able to turn, it will only drive straight forward and backward.
It is preferable to take rubber tires, since they move better not only on the floor of the apartment, but also on open ground. If you like the process and manage to figure out how to make a car on the control panel, you can build several different copies, teach neighbor dads and boys, and arrange mini-races over rough terrain right in the yard.
I must say that in the modern market for radio-controlled cars today there is an overabundance, but it is filled with models, as a rule, made in China, although among them you will find a product for almost every taste. However, there are always craftsmen who are not satisfied with the current proposals or they believe that radio-controlled car assembled with your own hands will always be better than even good conveyor copies. It is for novice craftsmen that our article today is written. Let's start with necessary tools, and then we will describe the procedure and give some useful tips.
How to assemble a radio-controlled car: tools
So, we need the following:
- the model of any car, the simplest one can be, any production - even Chinese, even domestic, American or European;
- VAZ solenoids for opening doors, 12-volt battery;
- radio control equipment - AGC (not to be confused with Automatic Gain Control, since the abbreviation is the same);
- batteries with chargers;
- radiator;
- electronic measuring equipment;
- soldering iron and metalwork tools;
- a piece of rubber (needed to strengthen the bumper).
Diagram of a radio-controlled car
Well, now we turn to the scheme, that is, to the process of creating a high-quality model of the RU-machine. First, we assemble the suspension - for this we need a basic model and a 12 V battery. It will look something like this:
Now we take VAZ solenoids and plastic gears and assemble the gearbox. We cut threads on the studs and the body so that gears and solenoids can be hung. Everything should look something like this:
Now we connect the gearbox to the power supply and check, after which we install the gearbox in the car, if it has passed the test. We install a radiator in order to protect the circuit from overheating. The radiator plate, by the way, can be very securely fixed with bolts. After that, we install the power driver and radio control microcircuits. They can be clearly seen in this photo:
Well, then we completely assemble the body of our car. After that, you can proceed to test runs of the car. And now a few tips.
So you have a radio controlled car, how do you make it maneuverable and reliable? First, do not overload the model with unnecessary details and systems. Sound signals, glowing headlights, opening doors - all this, of course, is good and beautiful, but creating a radio-controlled car is a rather difficult process, and its further complication can negatively affect the basic "driving" qualities of your model. Therefore, the main thing to concentrate on is to do good suspension and ensure reliable signal transmission. Well, in improving maneuverability and in optimization speed characteristics fine-tuning of systems during test drives will help you. As for specific schemes, it is simply not possible to describe even the hundredth part of them in this article, so I refer you to
And I decided to repeat it. From the beginning I ordered the equipment, servos, shock absorbers, which are less in front and large back. The photo is not very 
found a chainsaw engine of 45 cc and 3 horsepower.
And I started making the frame. The first pancake turned out to be lumpy because I made it from a metal profile and the frame turned out to be heavy and flaky, which did not suit me.
Then I decided to try to make something lighter and more durable. I came across a sheet of aluminum from it, then I decided to make a frame. Firstly, light and durable (to some extent) one of its minuses is that it bends, but it doesn’t matter. In order for it not to bend, I strengthened it in the center by installing 2 strips of aluminum profile. The frame turned out to be surprisingly strong 32 kg weight that can withstand how hello, and this is what I need. The length of the frame is 73 cm, the width is 25 cm, the thickness is 2.5 mm. Here is the actual frame. 
Then I thought about how to make a chassis, how to install the front wheels, from the beginning I wanted to use an aluminum U-shaped profile to install a suspension on it, but I couldn't find it anywhere (I never thought that it was such a deficit of D). I had to buy an aluminum corner of 25 mm, but then I found out that the rophil could be bought in castoram, but it was too late, that's what happened 
the height of the corners turned out to be 6 cm. At the back, I still think about how best to do it, because the model will be rear-wheel drive and such a scheme will no longer work and do without the main parts rear suspension I do not risk it because I need to make estimates. And while I wait for the main premise, without which this machine will never budge. It comes with a set of drive axles 
the receiver is like a native, because of my stupidity, it burned out 
and wheel adapters
By the end of the first part, I want to show approximately how my model will look like, I will say right away the photos are not mine, I found them on the Internet. To be continued. 
