The fuel pump pumps and the car does not start. The gas pump does not work: possible causes and solution to the problem. Pump filter and manual priming lever

By itself, gasoline (diesel fuel) from the car's tank will not be able to get into the engine, for this you need a pumping mechanism - a fuel pump. And if it breaks down, it is not difficult to predict the consequences - the car will stop. There can be many possible reasons for this, and since they are typical for almost any car brand, it is better to talk about them using a specific example. Let's say that the VAZ-2110 gas pump is not working.

Types of fuel pumps

Serial production of "dozens" began in 1995, that is, at the time when domestic cars equipped with carburetor systems. In them, for pumping fuel, gasoline pumps (pumps) of a mechanical type were installed. Such a pump functions directly from the car engine.

For proper operation of the carburetor is not required high pressure, therefore, the pump has a relatively simple design, similar to water pumping systems. It is installed directly under the hood of the car, which certainly makes it easier to maintain or replace.

With the advent of injectors, the design of the gas pump was also modified, it became electric. The principle of its operation has also changed. If the mechanical pump requires the starter to start rotating crankshaft then in injection system first, the fuel pump is powered, which, with the help of the built-in electric motor, creates the required pressure in the line, and only after that the engine starts.

This type of fuel pump is installed directly into the fuel tank.

Thus, there are two types of fuel pumps: mechanical and electrical.

The gas pump does not work: signs of breakdown

Regardless of the design of the engine, if the gas pump fails, the symptoms of its breakdown for both types appear the same, and they manifest themselves as follows:

If the spark plugs are in good working order, the spark is good, the engine turns, but there are no flashes in the cylinders.
There are occasional flashes in the engine cylinders, but the engine will not start.
The engine starts, but at the same time the revolutions "float".
The engine starts idle speed correspond to the norm, but when you try to increase them or start moving, the motor stalls.
While driving, the car twitches, when you try to raise the revs, you feel dips in the engine, the dynamics of the car decreases (does not pull).

It is worth noting that similar symptoms can appear in other breakdowns, for example, with a heavily soiled fine filter, a faulty mass air flow sensor (air flow sensor) or clogged nozzles. Therefore, the fuel pump cannot be blamed for these symptoms.

V injection vehicles when the ignition is turned on from under rear seat there is a buzzing, this turns on an electric motor that pumps fuel, if there is no sound, then the gas pump does not work.

The mechanical fuel pump failed: what are the reasons?

There may be several reasons why the VAZ-2110 gas pump does not work:

The electric fuel pump does not work, possible causes of the breakdown

In an injection engine, the fuel pump operates from the vehicle's electrical system, so its failure is not always associated with a breakdown of the pumping mechanism itself. The cause of a malfunction may also be: a failed fuse, relay or oxidation, burning of the contacts on the wires supplying the electric motor.

Another common reason why the VAZ-injector fuel pump does not work may be a mesh filter installed at its inlet. Despite the fact that it is intended for the initial, coarse cleaning of fuel, its mesh has a rather dense structure. And since the pump is located in the tank, it practically touches its bottom and the sediment accumulating there, which contaminates it.

Well, the worst thing is a breakdown of the motor, which is responsible for the circulation of gasoline inside the pump, or the failure of its structural elements.

Methods for checking the fuel pump

It is very simple to find out whether a mechanical gas pump is working or not, for this it is enough to disconnect the end of the hose connecting the pump to the carburetor, and, lowering it into an empty bottle, press the manual priming lever located on the pump several times. In this case, gasoline should flow out of the hose in a pulsating stream. This will allow you to find out if the internal elements of the pump are working properly or not.

To understand why the fuel pump does not work on an injection engine, you first need to "ring" its electrical circuit. It is better to start the check from the end point, that is, from the pump itself. A control lamp is connected to its terminals, and if it lights up with a turn of the key in the ignition lock, then everything is in order with the electrician, the breakdown must be looked for in the pump itself, if not, then in the fuse, relay or in the wiring.

To check the fuel pump itself, you need to find out what pressure it creates in the fuel rail:

At idle, its value should be in the range of 0.23-0.25 kPa.
When starting the motor - 0.3 kPa.
When you press the accelerator - 0.28-0.3 kPa.
When pinching the return pipe that returns excess gasoline to the tank, the pressure should rise to 0.4 kPa.

If in any of the modes the pressure does not correspond to the norm, therefore, the gas pump does not work as it should - its elements are badly worn out and require repair or replacement.

Trouble-shooting

To repair a mechanical fuel pump, you will need to purchase a repair kit, which includes a diaphragm and valves - you can change these parts yourself. Also, replacing a pusher with a spring will not be difficult. If the breakdown is more serious, then the point in resuscitation disappears, it will be cheaper and easier to install a new fuel pump.

An electric fuel pump has a non-separable body, and it is not worth trying to repair it without having certain skills, it is better to entrust this work to specialists. The only thing that you can do yourself is to replace the mesh of the internal coarse filter. But even here you need to know that there are nets different types, so you have to remove the filter from the tank to get a sample.

Fuel pump breakdown prevention

To extend the life of the fuel pump, you need:

Monitor the quality of the fuel filled into the car.
Completely exclude even the possibility of water getting into the tank.
During scheduled maintenance, it is imperative to change the fuel filters.
In case of mechanical damage to the fuel tank, it is necessary to dismantle the fuel pump and check its condition.
Periodically clean the fuel tank from possible accumulation of sediment, consisting of the smallest solid particles contained in gasoline.

Implementation of these simple rules will have a beneficial effect not only on fuel system but also on the engine itself.

One of essential elements is an electric fuel pump that is located in fuel tank car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from, creating a certain pressure.

Auto repair technicians identify the following common fuel system problems that are associated with a fuel pump:

the fuel pump does not pump well and does not create the required pressure;
the gas pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;

Given that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most popular fuel pump malfunctions are associated with both mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will consider what signs indicate a breakdown of the gas pump and why the gas pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Read in this article

Signs of malfunctions of the fuel pump

The main symptoms of the failure of the fuel pump, as well as malfunctions in its operation, are:

the car is difficult to start, the engine is unstable, there are dips, jerks when you press the gas pedal, etc.;
the pump does not pump after the ignition is turned on, and does not pump the gasoline pump, the engine does not start;

Also, there have been cases when the gas pump stops pumping directly in motion. The engine in such a situation starts to malfunction and stalls immediately after the remaining gasoline in the fuel line is consumed. The problem can occur both regularly and intermittently.

Does not pump the gasoline pump: causes and diagnostics

To begin with, if the gas tank is full, charged, dry and there is a spark on them, the starter motor normally turns the engine, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A common problem is that power is not supplied to the fuel pump after the ignition is turned on. In a similar way, the malfunction manifests itself in motion, when the power to the gas pump is lost and the engine suddenly stalls.

No less important point is also how much the gas pump pumps. In other words, the pump may hum and hum (power is on), but not create the desired pressure in the fuel line. The pressure in the fuel system with a working fuel pump must be more than 3 bar (depending on the specific car model). The specified pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has an indicator of 300 kPa and above.

To check, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a pressure gauge, taking into account the indicators that are the norm for a particular car model. Using the example of injection VAZs, the pressure when the ignition is turned on is 3 atmospheres, at idle the indicator is 2.5 atmospheres, when the gas is pressed 2.5-3 atmospheres. This method will help you to accurately determine:

malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator in the rail;
breakdown of the fuel pump or a noticeable decrease in its performance due to wear;
heavy contamination of filters (fuel filter and / or fuel pump mesh);

In the second case, when the gas is pressed, the pressure does not increase; in the latter case, the pressure gauge needle rises, but very slowly or in jerks.

A decrease in the pressure indicator below the norm will lead to the fact that the motor may not start or start with difficulty, triple, twitch, work unstable and with failures. If this is the fault of the pump and not fuel filter, then there is a high probability that the coarse cleaning mesh of the fuel pump is clogged. In this case, there is no need, since it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.

If there is a suspicion that there is no voltage on the fuel pump, there is a way quick check... It is enough to turn the ignition key and listen, because at the moment the key is turned, a slight hum of the fuel pump should be heard. If such a buzz is not heard, it means that there is no power for the gas pump, there are problems with the wiring, etc.

We add that this method of detecting pump operation by sound is not suitable for all cars. On some models (especially the "premium" class), noise insulation is at a high level and the fuel pump turns on immediately after the driver's door is opened, and not when the key is turned in the lock. In this case, it may seem that the gas pump does not work when the ignition is turned on, while
the sound of the pump may simply not be heard.

Also in the general list of possible reasons why the fuel pump does not pump are noted:

failure of the fuel pump fuse;
breakdown of the fuel pump relay;
problems with the "weight" of the fuel pump;
malfunction of the electric motor of the fuel pump;
oxidation or hall of contacts and terminals of the gasoline pump;
the fuel pump itself is faulty;

Fuel pump wiring

On most cars, the wiring to the fuel pump consists of three wires: "plus", "minus", as well as a wire for indicating the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the fuel pump does not pump, then the reason may be lack of power.

To check the power supply to the fuel pump, it is enough to take a 12 Volt light bulb by supplying power to it from the external connector of the fuel pump. After turning the ignition, the control lamp should light up. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. Illumination of the lamp will indicate the need to check the internal contacts of the fuel pump.

To check the external wiring, you should alternately connect the positive and negative contacts, which are removed from the fuel pump power connector, to the pump ground. The contacts must also be connected to the fuel pump relay. If you place a negative contact to ground, after which the ignition is turned on and the light comes on, then this means that this contact is faulty. In the event that the light bulb does not come on, then the problems with the "plus" are obvious. If you place a contact on the relay and the light comes on at the same time, it is likely that the wire is damaged on the section that connects the relay and the fuel pump itself.

Fuel pump electric motor

If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and external wiring to the fuel pump gives positive results, then you should check the fuel pump motor. The specified electric motor is responsible for the circulation of gasoline inside the fuel pump.

During the check, it must be borne in mind that the terminals on the gas pump themselves tend to oxidize, as a result of which power is not supplied and the pump does not pump. In this case, the motor is working, but the terminals need to be cleaned or re-soldered.

To verify the fuel pump motor, you will need to fix the test lamp wires to the cleaned and serviceable terminal of the electric motor, after which the ignition should be turned on. If the light comes on, it will indicate that the petrol pump motor is not working.

Fuel pump ground contact

Problems with the weight of the fuel pump may be indicated by a fuel level sensor that does not work correctly. The mass may be poorly secured; in this case, the fuel pump does not pump fuel. The earth wire is usually under dashboard and walks through the cabin. It is necessary to find the indicated wire, check and clean all the contacts, then securely fix the mass on the gas pump.

The fuel pump relay is often mounted next to the fuel pump ground, that is, under the dashboard. A normally operating relay after turning on the ignition for a couple of seconds allows the pump to build up pressure in the system and immediately turns off.

At the moment the ignition key is turned, the driver hears a characteristic click (the relay is turned on), then a similar click will indicate that the fuel pump relay is turned off. If such clicks are not heard, this indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. The best solution would be to replace the fuel pump relay with a new or known working device. We add that the cost of the spare part is quite affordable.

Fuel pump fuse

During diagnostics, be sure to check the fuel pump fuse. The specified 15 A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the engine compartment and is marked FUEL PUMP, which means the fuel pump.

The fuel pump fuse must be pulled out and its contact inspected. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact will indicate that the fuel pump fuse has blown. In this case, you need to put a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the fuel pump relay).

Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions

Quite often, an unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the gas pump disappears due to mixed contacts or other connection errors.

Also, one should not exclude the possibility that a failure occurred in the car alarm or security complex, after which the power supply of the gas pump is blocked. In other words, .

Finally, we add that the gas pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly disable the electric motor of the fuel pump, as it burns out.

What are gas pumps

Cars with gasoline engines, depending on the brand, model and modification, can be equipped with gas pumps of different design. But they all fall into two main categories: mechanical and electrical. Most are equipped with mechanical fuel delivery devices. If we take (the carburetor), then from the factory it was completed with the production of DAAZ. The main difference between this device is its simplicity of design, which is easy to understand even for a beginner. In the carburetor "nine", the fuel pump is located in the engine compartment of the car. It is easy to recognize by its characteristic hemispherical cap and fuel line hoses.

VAZ 2114 injection engines are equipped with electric fuel pumps. Their design is also based on a membrane, but unlike "mechanics", the fuel supply devices in cars with automatic fuel injection are not under the hood, but directly in the tank.

Signs of a malfunction of the fuel pump

Whichever engine your vehicle is equipped with, there are similar indications that something is wrong with the fuel delivery device. These include:

Lack of engine response to starting attempts.
Violation of stability of work power unit at idle.
Troenie.
Decrease in power.

The design of the fuel pump of the carburetor VAZ 2109

To understand why (carburetor) does not pump, let's take a quick look at its design. So, the fuel supply device "nine" consists of:

hulls;
pusher with mechanical pump lever;
diaphragm assembly;
covers with valves and fittings for fastening hoses;
mesh filter;
the manual pumping lever.

The principle of operation of a mechanical fuel pump

The fuel pump is driven by a cam camshaft, which moves the pusher in a horizontal direction, causing it to reciprocate. The pusher, in turn, acts on the mechanical pumping lever, and it already raises and lowers the diaphragm rod.

Thus, a certain pressure is created inside, which is maintained by the valves of the cover of the device. One of them passes the fuel inside, not letting it back in, and the second pushes it into the fuel line leading to the carburetor.

As you can see, the design is very simple, therefore, in order to determine the reason that the gas pump does not pump, it is enough to disassemble it and check the condition of the main elements.

Pusher

Since the body does not affect the operation of the fuel pump in any way, if, of course, it is not damaged, then we will start with the pusher. This element is made of steel and cannot break just like that. But to wear out - please, especially if it is not original, but purchased as a separate spare part. As soon as its length is reduced by a few millimeters, the fuel pump does not pump fuel.

Rather, it somehow shakes, but the amplitude of the diaphragm's movement is significantly reduced. Hence the low pressure of the fuel in the system, and, as a result, interruptions in the operation of the engine. The standard length of the pusher for DAAZ pumps is 84 mm. Measure its length and, if necessary, replace the worn part.

Diaphragm

The most common diaphragm failure is a ruptured diaphragm. It also happens that it is deformed. Due to this damage, the diaphragm begins to pass fuel through itself, which also causes a drop in pressure in the system.

Such a malfunction can be detected only by disassembling the fuel supply device. If it is the diaphragm that is to blame for the fact that the gas pump does not pump, you will immediately see it. This problem is solved by replacing it.

Cover with valves and fittings

Since you have already disassembled the gas pump, do not be too lazy to check the valves. One of them must let the fuel in and the other must let out. Just blow them out and see how well they work. If the valves do not cope with their tasks, replace the cover assembly.

Pump filter and manual priming lever

The first thing you will see when you disassemble the fuel supply is a strainer. It is made of thin perforated plastic. The reason is that the gas pump does not pump, it can also serve if it is deformed or severely contaminated.

In the first case, the filter must be replaced; in the second, it must be rinsed with a carburetor cleaner.

The manual pumping lever has nothing to do with the fact that the fuel pump does not pump fuel when the camshaft rotates. The only thing that can break in it is the spring that pushes it back to its initial position.

The fuel pump does not pump: the injector

As already mentioned, pumps in carburetor and injection engines have different designs. In cars with forced injection of fuel, all processes associated with its supply to the combustion chambers are controlled by an electronic control unit, so breakdowns of various kinds of electronic devices can occur here.

The main reasons why the fuel pump of an injection engine does not pump include:

malfunction of the electric drive of the device;
clogged pump filter;
failure of the relay;
blown fuse.

How to understand that it is the gas pump that is the cause of engine interruptions

Diagnose problems with the fuel pump in a car with injection engine much easier than in a car with a carburetor engine. The fact is that when the ignition is turned on, the sound of the fuel module electric motor is clearly heard. It continues for several seconds. This sound indicates that the fuel pump is spinning and pumping fuel.

If this happens when you turn the key, then everything is in order with the device itself, and the reason must be looked for elsewhere. Well, if, when you turn on the ignition, you do not hear the characteristic sound of the pump operation, you can be sure that the problem is in it, or in the elements of its energy supply.

Start with a relay and fuse

Considering that the fuel supply module is located in the car's tank, and it is not so easy to get to it, it is better to start diagnostics with a relay and a fuse:

Remove the screws securing the cover located to the left of the steering column.
Find fuse F3 (15 A) and relay R2 under it. These are the elements that we need to check.
As for the fuse, you need to "ring" it with a tester. If unsuitable, replace it.

It is quite difficult to check the relay in a garage. But you can take a similar (from the adjacent socket), known to be working relay, and put it instead of the diagnosed one. Now turn on the ignition. Is the gas pump pumping? Reason found! Well, if nothing has changed, let's move on.

Electric drive and filter

The fuel pump in the VAZ 2114 engine is an element of the fuel module, which is located in the car's tank. It also includes:

coarse filter;
fuel level sensor;
branch pipes for connection to the fuel line.

To get to the module, you need to remove the lower part of the rear seat, disconnect the wiring harness and unscrew the 8 screws securing its cover. Remove the entire device assembly. First of all, inspect the coarse filter. If it is clogged, replace it.

To test the electric motor, you will need to connect it directly to the battery terminals. In case of its normal operation, "ring" the wiring and check the contact of the ground wire on the module cover. If the electric motor does not show signs of life, the question "why does not the fuel pump pump" has finally found its solution.

Trying to repair it yourself is impractical. Just buy a new motor and replace the old one. And yet, do not spend money on the purchase of the entire module, which now costs about 3 thousand rubles. Buy separately an electric motor and a new filter. All this will cost you three times less.

Without fuel, the engine does not work, and without the engine, everything else.
Many car owners, it happens, do not even know that their cars are constructively provided for such a thing. electrical device fuel supply, located either in the tank or not far from it, and if they know about it, then only in theory.

A gasoline pump can give serious thought to itself when the car suddenly stands up with a stake in the middle of the road in an open field. There is gasoline, oil is normal, there is a spark, but the car does not run.

This is where questions and searches for reasons begin.

The prerequisites for suspecting an electric petrol pump of a malfunction can be the following phenomena:
1) power loss,
2) the car does not start well even on a warm engine,
3) the engine stalls, troit, moves in jerks at a constant speed, idle speed "floats".
4) noise, hum, buzz, creak, whistle emanating from the tank (with a submersible pump) or from under the bottom of the body (with an outboard pump)
In order about each item:
Loss of power.
The thing is that the fuel pump - although it does not belong to consumables like a filter or a tire, however, it has its own margin of safety. The car manufacturer takes this fact into account and creates a gas pump that presses when the voltage on the pump is 12 volts, for example 8 bar, although the pump has a relief valve that relieves excess pressure and is triggered at 5 bars. Time passes and the pump ages, at the same voltage the pump can already deliver a maximum of 6 bar, and so on. Problems with the loss of engine power arise when the maximum pump pressure is lower than that required in the fuel system for normal operation of the fuel equipment after the pump (overcoming the resistance of the fuel fine filter, triggering injectors, etc., etc.). That, in general, leads to an undersupply of gasoline for the engine, and as a result, a drop in power.
Bad to start.
A car can start poorly for various reasons, but why one of them can be a malfunction of the fuel pump? For normal engine operation, a certain pressure in the fuel system is required. Ideally, after the engine is turned off, the pressure is maintained in the fuel system, and when the ignition is turned on, the pump pumps fuel into the system to start. However, with wear and tear, there are cases when the pump creates the required pressure for a longer period of time, and the valve does not hold the pressure in the system as it should. As a result, the car will not start well.
In some cases, the car may start after the car has stood for a while, although before that it stalled and stubbornly did not start. This may indicate that the grid of the gasoline pump is clogged, or something prevents gasoline from normally entering the flask, from where the pump pumps it.
If the car starts up every other time, or even after knocking on the pump, the fuel pump anchor or graphite brushes are most likely worn out. You should not change them on your own, since even after flaring successfully, removing the pump insides, replacing the brushes with new ones, rolling the pump, it will not work for a long time, since graphite from a simple electric drill will be erased in a month, if not in a week, or will destroy the anchor of the gas pump, being of the wrong hardness, without the necessary additives, in gasoline.
Incorrect engine operation
The engine runs intermittently or stalls - the problems are the same as in the previous paragraphs: the grid is clogged, or the pump is faulty. Sometimes there are wiring problems: the current simply does not reach the pump, or as a result of poor contact, the terminals on the pump will spark, etc.
There are also many reasons for failure, among them the most popular are:
1) Riding on a "dry" tank
2) The work of the fuel pump when driving on gas
3) Contamination of the filter (mesh) of the fuel pump to the state of "vacuum packing", or even violation of mechanical integrity.
4) Water in the tank
5) Dirt / rust / debris in the tank
6) Jamming of the pump impeller / rollers with foreign objects in the tank.
7) Wear of the pump armature / brushes
8) Deformation of the tank and, as a consequence, destruction of the pump / pump module.
9) Normal wear and tear.
10) Handicraft installation / removal of the fuel pump "Indians"
And so, in order:
When driving on an empty tank, the fuel pump heats up. This fact is at least obvious on the basis that gasoline is the only thing that surrounds the pump and cools it, and the only thing passing through it lubricates it. In the absence of gasoline or insufficient amount of it, the pump heats up for two reasons: firstly, the mechanical friction of the fuel pump units, and secondly due to direct current passing through the pump (3-12 amperes). As a result, the pump heats up, the gaps between the rubbing parts decrease from thermal expansion, and as a result, a completely new pump may stop, and if the fuse does not burn out, it will work like a boiler in the tank until the pump housing, pump module, and other adjacent elements are melted, until contact between the terminals is lost fuel pump.
When driving on gas, the increased injury rate of the pump depends, as in the above paragraph, on the presence of gasoline in the tank.
Car owners who use gas have a habit of forgetting about gasoline without using it, and often the pump, without shutting down, pumps gasoline from the tank (if there is still gasoline there) to the fuel rail to the engine, and since a car running on gas is already hot from the hot rail gasoline goes back to the pump, usually into the pump flask, which adds fuel to the fire, contributing to heating.

If the mesh is blocked, a perfectly normal pump can break in a matter of days. The pump grid, being clogged, does not allow gasoline to flow in the required amount.

Everything is not so scary and difficult if you do not ignore it. The clogged mesh can be cleaned, changed, and most likely this can help the car drive normally, and the car owner can save money on repairs or replacement of the pump. Sometimes the car loses insignificantly in power, and then suddenly the symptom goes away - it is possible that the mesh was clogged and rubbed in the tank until such holes are formed, which are equivalent to the absence of the mesh. This threatens that everything that can only gets into the pump and breaks down the latter.

Water in the tank. Although gasoline is slightly soluble in water (0.001-0.004%), there are cases of water getting into the tank. This happens when refueling with low-quality fuel (it is even possible to refuel with emulsion of water and gasoline after a recent visit of a fuel truck to refueling), and during the natural process of condensation of atmospheric moisture inside the tank due to temperature differences. Water corrodes the tank, and being heavier than gasoline, it collects other particles from the bottom of the tank, wetting them and carrying them along.
Water has a detrimental effect on the fuel pump and injector nozzles. If water gets into fuel lines in the winter, it can simply freeze and create a traffic jam that will prevent the engine from starting.

Dirt / rust / debris in the tank
Dirt usually enters the tank in the same way as water - namely, filling with low-quality fuel, but sometimes it ends up there after using special fuel with additives, or the actual additives. The fact is that after the ingress of special substances designed to dissolve the mud on the walls of the tank, the plaque, being dense enough, does not dissolve, but flakes off the walls of the tank in flakes, clogging up the grid of the gasoline pump. Also, such additives can contribute to the corrosion of the tank, with the participation of water, which leads to the appearance of rust, up to the loss of the tightness of the tank.

Jamming of the pump impeller / rollers with foreign objects that have got into the tank usually occurs if the fuel pump mesh has lost its integrity.

The wear of the pump armature / brushes usually occurs when driving without gasoline (on gas) or when it is on the bottom of the tank. Gasoline being the only one lubricant, lubricates the rubbing surfaces of the armature and brushes. Under inadequate operating conditions, the brush mechanism fails within two to three months.

Deformation of the tank and, as a result, destruction of the pump / pump module is a rare phenomenon, but it still happens. The most commonplace way is to catch a bump, a hole, hitting the tank, from which the insides of the latter become unusable, however, it happens that the car simply stops driving, when the tank lid is opened, a whistle of air sucked into the tank is heard, and the tank turns out to be crimped when viewed. Reason: the adsorber of gasoline vapors is clogged, due to which air did not enter the tank. This is because with a full tank of gasoline there is not much air left there, and as the fuel is consumed, its place is taken by air passing through the adsorber, and if something is wrong with the "air release", then the pump, pumping out the fuel from the tank, creates a reduced pressure in the tank, from which it can flatten, and the vacuum can reach such degrees that the pump is no longer able to suck in fuel and supply it to the engine.
Natural wear of the pump is inevitable, but it is very accelerated when abrasive - sand, fine metal chips, etc., gets into the impeller / roller mechanism.

The armature-brush mechanism remains in excellent condition, the current consumption is within the normal range, and an increase in the gaps between the rubbing parts leads to a loss of performance and a decrease in pressure in the fuel system.
And finally, a few words about what a makeshift installation / removal of a gasoline pump by "Indians" is.
There are many reasons and breakdowns when an inexperienced and ignorant intrudes into the fuel supply system, but for more than a dozen years of practice in repairing and replacing gasoline pumps, an idea has formed, thanks to which it is possible to distinguish 4 groups of human factor influence on the malfunction of a gasoline pump and its abnormal operation:
- installation of a non-native pump. (For example, on a Passat from a VAZ, etc.)
- installation of a pump without a grid.
- incorrect installation of the pump, pump module, mesh.
- installation of the pump without special tools.

Read more about "Indians" in the next article.