One of the reasons for the decrease in the braking efficiency of the car may be the unsatisfactory operation of the vacuum booster. The vacuum booster is also checked in the event of a noticeable increase in effort when pressing the brake pedal.
Vacuum booster Installed between the brake pedal mechanism and the brake master cylinder. When braking, due to the vacuum in the reservoir of the engine, it creates an additional force proportional to the pedal force through the rod and the piston of the first chamber of the master cylinder.
A check valve is installed in the hose connecting the vacuum amplifier with the engine receiver, it maintains the vacuum when it falls in the intake pipe and prevents the air-fuel mixture from entering the vacuum amplifier.
Quick express check of the UAZ Hunter vacuum brake booster.
During operation, the vacuum amplifier does not require adjustments, and its maintenance consists in checking the reliability of the fastening. For a quick express check of the amplifier's performance, it is necessary to press the brake pedal several times all the way to the stop when the engine is not running, and then, keeping the pedal pressed, start the engine. Due to the difference in pressure values in the cavities of the amplifier, the brake pedal should lower slightly and move forward.
If this does not happen, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the hose and the tightness of its connection with the check valve of the vacuum amplifier and the inlet pipe of the engine, and, if necessary, eliminate. If this does not give a positive result, then the amplifier is faulty and must be repaired or replaced with a new one.
Checking the vacuum brake booster for leaks.
Checking the vacuum booster for tightness is a more time-consuming process. Open the hood of the car and start the engine for one to two minutes, then about thirty seconds after stopping it, press the brake pedal twice. During this action, the characteristic hiss of air entering the vacuum amplifier should be heard.
Additionally, check the check valve of the amplifier; if it is faulty, the vacuum in the vacuum cavity of the amplifier does not persist when the load on the engine changes or when it stops. To check the valve, disconnect the vacuum hose from it and remove the valve from the rubber seal of the amplifier flange.
Slide any suitable rubber bulb, such as a hydrometer, onto the short, larger bore of the check valve, and squeeze it. If the check valve is working properly, the bulb will remain compressed. If the bulb straightens, replace the valve and repeat the procedure for checking the vacuum booster.
If during the verification process it became clear that the vacuum amplifier is faulty, then it is easier to replace it with a new one, since repairing the amplifier is very laborious, requires appropriate knowledge and skills, the use of special installation and adjustment equipment, and does not always end successfully.
Free travel of the brake pedal with the engine off should be within 5-14 mm. Too little free play indicates a jammed working cylinder and provokes increased consumption fuel and accelerated wear of brake pads. Too much free play is a sign of increased clearances in the pedal mechanism or a leak in the hydraulic drive.
On UAZ Hunter cars with engines of ecological class Euro-2 and UAZ-315196 cars with the conditional marketing name UAZ-469 New.
Free travel of the brake pedal is regulated by setting the stop switch of the brake signal to the position providing free travel of the pedal within 5-14 mm.
On UAZ Hunter cars of Euro-3 ecological class.
Pedal free travel is set by turning the adjusting screw, choosing the clearance in the connection: the fork of the vacuum booster pusher - the finger - the brake drive lever. Free play should be within 5-14 mm. The position of the brake signal switch is adjusted separately with the adjusting nuts so as to provide a clearance of 0.5 mm between the switch stop and the buffer.
On UAZ Hunter cars of Euro-4 ecological class.
Free travel of the brake pedal is regulated in the same way as for ecological Euro-3, with the difference that the free travel of the brake pedal must be within 5-8 millimeters.
The pressure regulator must be checked periodically during operation. When checking, by external inspection, it is necessary to make sure that there is no damage to the regulator and its drive parts, there is no leakage of brake fluid and gaps in the connection of the rack with the elastic lever and the bracket on.
When you press the brake pedal, the pressure regulator piston should move out of the body by 1.7-2.3 mm. Lack of piston travel, as well as insufficient or excessive piston travel, indicate a malfunction of the regulator or its drive.
When inspecting, special attention should be paid to the location of the control plug and the absence of brake fluid leakage from under it. In normal condition, the plug should be recessed into the opening of the regulator body until it stops. The protrusion of the plug from the hole and the leakage of brake fluid mean a loss of tightness of the seals, and a malfunction of the regulator. In this case, it must be repaired or replaced.
Checking and adjusting the force of the elastic lever on the piston of the pressure regulator must be carried out periodically during operation and always when replacing the rear ones with new ones or with a large amount in the package.
The adjustment is made as follows:
1. Place the equipped car on a level, firm, horizontal platform.
2. Loosen the adjusting bolt locknut, unscrew it by 2-3 turns and tighten until it touches the regulator piston shank. Then tighten the adjusting screw:
- for UAZ Hunter cars with awning: 2 / 3-1 turn, 4-6 edges of the bolt head
- for UAZ Hunter cars with an iron roof: 1 or 1 and 1/3 turn, 6-8 edges of the bolt head
3. Tighten the lock nut and check the piston stroke of the regulator, it should be within 1.7-2.3 mm
A complete check of the correctness of the adjustment is carried out when the car is moving on a straight horizontal section of the road with a dry asphalt surface. While driving, brake the car until the wheels lock.
With a working pressure regulator and a properly performed adjustment of the drive, there should be some advance in the locking of the front wheels relative to the rear ones. In the case of early locking of the rear wheels, it is necessary to additionally unscrew the adjusting bolt by 1-2 edges of its head and then repeat the check while the car is moving.
Vacuum brake booster
Other questions about the brake system
The creak of the brakes of the UAZ is its integral attribute. One might get the impression that the pads were worn down to the rivets, but this, as a rule, is not the case and the squeak occurs due to dirt on the pads and the brake drum. Strong braking (but not with skidding) at high speed helps a little. As a rule, the remainder for passes without squeaking. Personally, I am not worried about this, on the contrary. This squeak works better than a beep, especially if someone is clipping.
I lost the whistle after replacing all the cylinders with. From which I can assume that the nature of this phenomenon lies in the uneven distribution of the load on the pads when using standard cylinders. Them, how not to adjust, and after a few braking gaps become different.
I somehow read some advice from experienced people in the ZR for a long time, it is necessary to drill two or three holes in the brake lining as thick as a pencil rod and insert these very rods there, so it was stated that all the creaks are due to the properties of graphite.
- Mark and remove ALL brake drums and measure their diameter with vernier calipers. As a result of uneven wear or grooves, this size can walk within a fairly large range - hence the unevenness. Check if there is a brake leaks, or a transmission. If it flows, eliminate it.
- Make two pairs of them - for the front and rear axles- with the same (within 0.2-0.3 mm) diameter.
- Mark and remove pads. Rinse and clean them and all parts of their suspension.
- Assemble so that the pads work "on their" drums. Adjust carefully.
- Take a day ride around the city.
The trick is that VUT GAZ-2401 comes in a separate unit (not near the pedals), but my pedals are lower and therefore I don't want to remake the pedal assembly.
There are no problems with the installation. From ch. brake cylinder tube to the amplifier, from the amplifier tube to the circuit separator, and from the latter two tubes - one to the front wheels, the other to the rear. Intake manifold vacuum. There is also a loop detector (optional) - see doc. for GAZ-24. Doubts arise about the fair passage of the inspection. And, it seems, he is rather weak for the UAZ, but still better than without him.
Description of the hydraulic brake drive circuit:
1. the main brake cylinder;
2. alarm indicator;
3. a hose with a diameter of 12 x 26, connected to the intake manifold of the engine;
4. hydraulic vacuum amplifier (24-3550010);
5.brake separator (24-3575010);
6. fitting for pumping the hydraulic vacuum amplifier;
7. control lamp;
8. brake cylinders of the rear wheels;
9. brake cylinders of the front wheels;
10. Air filter of the hydro-vacuum amplifier.
Bleeding the brake system with the installed hydro-vacuum brake booster GAZ-24. Fill the master brake cylinder with "BSK" or "Rosu" fluid (do not pour "Neva", it is not compatible with GAZ-24 brakes, it is also not allowed to mix BSK and Rosu), turning the valve in the separator by 2-2.5 turns brakes, we pump alternately the brakes of the rear and front wheels, then the hydraulic vacuum booster. We wrap the separator bleed valve with the brake pedal released. As always, doing this work, add fluid to the master brake cylinder so that air does not enter the system. If all brakes and their drive are correctly adjusted and there is no air in the system, the brake pedal, when pressed with your foot, should not go down more than half its stroke, and the warning lamp should not light up when the ignition is on.
I installed a vacuum brake booster from a BMW-7 90s (inflated). The only thing that is needed in advance is for the turner to grind the adapters (since the UAZ brake pipe fittings differ in size and thread with holes on the main brake cylinder of the BMW-7). I also removed the reinforcing plate on the panel on the engine side and replaced the working self-regulating brake cylinders with GAZ-24 (). The brakes are much softer and more efficient. The amplifier has been working for four years, during this time I did not even climb or disassemble it.
Volgovskaya brake cylinders, starting from 24 (since 1970), are all self-feeding, no manual adjustment of the pads is needed and less effort is required when braking. Back UAZ fit exactly from 24-ki (32 mm), because at 2410, 31029, ... (I mean rear cylinders) other thread for the brake pipe (without the intermediate bolt). On the front- from 2410 or 24 (the first is better - they have foam inserts, which must be slightly impregnated with BSK or castor oil, which prevents corrosion). Beware of the "left" - South Port is full of them. The main difference is the appearance: the anthers do not "shine", are of irregular shape, and there is often rust under the anthers. You can also change the pads themselves - the effort will decrease slightly, and most importantly, the mileage will increase. They are glued and work until almost complete wear and tear.
After alteration, the brakes need to be pumped CAREFULLY, because because of the locking ring, this process is a little "delayed".
After much thought and reading the statements of smart people (see the above note by CHIF), I came to the conclusion:
Front- GAZ-3102 they are GAZ-2410 they are the same .... (they are all the same) diameter 32. No alterations. I took it and put it on.
Rear- GAZ-3102 aka GAZ-2410 diameter 28. With a transition fitting.
I was looking for fittings for a long time. There are no UAZ vehicles from GTZ 3160. The solution was found unexpectedly when looking at the display case in the storage shed. Transition union 6x5 rear working brake cylinders Moskvich. From a conversation with the seller, I learned that the Muscovite working brake on the 412th had been gone for a long time. There is only 41st. And they have the same trouble - on the 41st x5, and on the 412th x6. 10 rub. issue price. Moskvichevsky adapter into the Volgovsky cylinder, into it our adapter (6x6 to another thread), and into our adapter a tube.
Then nadot. Wrench x12 to twist the fittings. Bleed the key for 10 of the cover brake (at the Volgovskih choke x10). A set of copper washers for the front cylinders (it is better not to put the old ones), 6 pieces per wheel. Well, remember about the possibility of folding the tubes.
The cylinder must be disassembled before installation. Well, or at least bend the anthers. And now there are a lot of such - seemingly normal, but inside it is rusty. And yet - in the store they are not very carefully overloaded. When I was choosing for myself, I did not find ANYONE (!) With a whole anther. I had to buy it separately.
There are different cylinders in stores that suit us:
From 3102
- very often, under their brand name, there are family UAZs, quite even NOT self-powered.
From GAZ-24, they are from 3302 - get up without problems, like family. The only negative - on an empty car, the back is enough before the front - in theory, a regulator is needed, but there are no special problems (I have been driving for the 5th year already.)
From 3160 and from GAZ 2410- of a smaller diameter than 24 or 3302, but to dock them with our tube, an adapter is needed - a GTZ fitting from 3160 (these cylinders are normally designed for 5 mm tubes.)
I installed all FENOX cylinders. In the store, I compared the factory-made rusty and sagging carvings and the neat FENOX.
It is necessary to cut rings with a diameter of the RTC out of 10mm foam rubber, soak them with either castor oil or brake fluid, and put them under the anthers of each RTC.
And at the gas station I saw an UAZ with front disc brakes ... it was very clearly visible through alloy wheels... and the owner said that everything from the "Volga" got up almost like a native, only the disks were sharpened (or grinded) ... and he also said that the car stopped trying to rebuild when braking into the next lane.
We installed disc brakes from 3160 on the UAZ 31512 of our girls-jeepers. For installation on civil bridges needs a case steering knuckle 3160, caliper (2 pcs), brake discs and brake hoses. The hubs were fitted with 40 mm spacers.
Bottom Brakes - Extended Pedal Travel
A feature of my car is the lower position of the pedals. Over time there were signs double release brakes. Breeding the pads and bleeding did not give anything - the free travel of the pedal was 50-70 mm. ... I read from the lyrics about the grinding of the RTC and GTZ, about the rubber bands, about brake fluids... Armed with knowledge, he went to the garage. To break is not to build, so I removed all the working cylinders, tormenting myself with the long GTZ mounting bolts at the bottom (I had to use a gas wrench), and took it off as well. The sight was not the most joyful, so I set to work. I took a long hairpin, on which I put several squares cut out of felt, and secured them on both sides with nuts and washers. On a lathe, they made me something from this composition, very similar to a cylinder. By tightening the nut from below (be sure to counter-nut), thus tightening the cylinder, you can adjust the diameter of the cylinder, which in my case was 32 mm. I had to mess around for a long time, about 25 minutes per cylinder and constantly adding GOI, but the result exceeded all expectations: the cylinders became mirrored. The history of brakes also came to light - there were snacks, so I had to polish the pistons too. 
I collected everything, began to fill the hydraulic drive with (new) fluid. For some time, it was possible to fill and pump, identifying leaks along the way, but the pedal picked up at the very bottom. The pads and fingers were spread over the UAZ and the book. The free wheeling remained, there was a feeling of springiness, as if the system was left with air. I had to crawl under the car and carefully examine the entire kinematic diagram. Here the main surprise awaited: the pedal really caught at the very bottom, so the remainder of the piston stroke was not enough for any normal work. It turned out that during the service two holes became oval. One is located on the brake pedal ear and the other is in the U-bolt. For this reason, the pedal went freely through two oval holes, which together gave such a large stroke. Removing the parts from the car, welding the holes and drilling new (round) ones :), we managed to completely get rid of the pedal failure. Now the brakes are grabbing at the very beginning, which is very pleasing.
VACUUM BRAKE OVERVIEW
MP-BS 3151-3510010
DESCRIPTION OF THE DEVICE AND PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE STANDARD VUT
The vacuum brake booster (VUT) is one of the most common devices applied in brake system modern car... VUT provides a decrease in the force applied to the brake pedal, while maintaining the efficiency of the working brake system.
Before proceeding to the description and review of the design of the VUT manufactured by MetalPart, we will briefly outline the principle of operation of this unit of the vehicle brake system using the example of a standard vacuum brake booster.
The vacuum brake booster is sealed, made as a single unit with the main brake hydraulic cylinder located on it. VUT is located in the engine compartment directly in front of the brake pedal.
Inside the amplifier housing are ( see fig.):
Elastic diaphragm - the main working part of the device. The diaphragm divides the VUT body into two chambers. The first - vacuum, directed towards the brake cylinder, the second, atmospheric - towards the brake pedal. In this case, the vacuum chamber communicates through the check valve with a vacuum source. In the initial position, the pressure in the chambers is equally low.
- Master cylinder piston rod - passes through the diaphragm and is connected to the brake pedal at one end and to the brake cylinder piston at the other.
- Pusher- linked to the brake pedal.
- Follow-up valve - closes the channel connecting the atmospheric chamber with the vacuum chamber.
-Return spring- puts the amplifier diaphragm in a standby state.
Rice. 1. The device of the standard VUT
The action of the VUT is based on the creation of a pressure difference in its chambers.
The depressed brake pedal transfers the force through the pusher to the follower valve, which closes the channel between the atmospheric and vacuum chambers. The movement of the valve creates a communication of the atmospheric chamber with the atmosphere through the corresponding channel, as a result of which the vacuum in the chamber drops. After overcoming the spring resistance under the influence of the pressure difference, the diaphragm moves the piston rod of the brake cylinder.
In proportion to the force of pressing the brake pedal, additional force is generated on the piston rod of the master brake cylinder. The maximum additional effort realized with a standard VUT is related to the effort from the driver's leg with a coefficient equal to 3.5.
After releasing the brake pedal, the atmospheric chamber is connected to the vacuum chamber, the pressure in the chambers is equalized. Under the action of the return spring, the diaphragm returns to its original position, the device is again ready for operation. These are, in general terms, the device and principle of operation of a standard VUT.
TECHNICAL DATA VUT MetalPart
ADVANTAGES AND DESIGN FEATURES VUT MetalPart
- gain 7,0 ... The specified coefficient is achieved through the use of two vacuum chambers. VUT MetalPart provides effective braking with less effort on the brake pedal ;
- the presence of two diaphragms. A longer service life of the VUT is provided - the load on each of the diaphragms is reduced. In case of failure of one of the VUT diaphragms MetalPart continues to work in the standard VUT mode, with a gain of 3.5;
- smaller dimensions in comparison with the standard one. Free engine compartment space is increased;
- steel union of the non-return valve. Provides a longer service life.
ANATOMY WUT MetalPart MP-BS3151-3510010
The vacuum brake booster is supplied in a three-layer corrugated cardboard package that protects the product from mechanical damage during transportation.
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To protect against corrosion, the VUT body is made of 2 mm thick galvanized metal and painted with powder enamel.
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The tightness and strength of the device is ensured by the use of 16 padlocks at the junction of the case with the lid. This type of connection eliminates the "suction" of air and ensures the integrity of the VUT structure when exposed to vibration transmitted by the car body.
The photo below shows a stem follower and a PU foam filter seal. This filter element provides air purification and protects the atmospheric chamber from dust and moisture.
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In a vacuum booster MetalPart a durable steel non-return valve is installed. The photo below shows a close-up of the check valve threads with traces of the compound used to ensure the tightness of the connection.
Shown below is a lock washer that secures the piston follower collar securely in the seat.
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After dismantling the washer, we remove the pusher collar.
Shown below is the cuff bore with three working edges - they ensure the tightness of the vacuum chamber. This constructive solution eliminates the "suction" of air into the vacuum chamber and ensures the stability of the VUT MetalPart at low revs engine.
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Additional seal in the VUT cover Provides a cuff with four lips that protect the follower valve body from dust and moisture ingress.
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To demonstrate the main structural difference of VUT MetalPart dismantle the housing cover. In a vacuum booster MetalPart located three cameras - two vacuum and one atmospheric. The photo below shows the diaphragm separating the atmospheric and first vacuum chambers.
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The use of two vacuum chambers and two diaphragms in the VUT design made it possible to double the total usable area of the diaphragms, which led to an increase in the VUT gain MetalPart to the value 7,0 .
In case of failure of one of the VUT diaphragms MetalPart continues to work in the standard mode, with a gain of 3.5.
This is how the cavity of the first vacuum chamber looks like:
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To demonstrate the cavity of the second vacuum chamber, we dismantle the diaphragm separating the two vacuum chambers.
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This overview was prepared by engineers MetalPart to clearly demonstrate the advantages of our company's vacuum amplifier.
Company MetalPart guarantees high quality own products, as well as its long and flawless service, subject to the rules of installation and operation.
The effectiveness of the vehicle's brakes is of great importance - if the braking system is not applied effectively, an accident can occur. To make the brakes clear, at all modern cars the amplifier is installed, it provides an instant stop vehicle when you press the pedal.
Repair of the vacuum brake booster is necessary if the brakes become "wadded", and the pedal has to be pressed with great force in order to brake.
Repair of the vacuum brake booster VAZ 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110
The vacuum brake booster (abbreviated as VUT) of VAZ cars makes the driver's work easier - it enhances the effect of pressing the pedal in the braking system (TC). This assembly consists of the following main parts:
- valve;
- metal case;
- diaphragm;
- piston;
- stock;
- powerful return spring;
- a pusher that connects to the brake pedal;
- protective cover;
- flange for installing a check valve.
The body of the device is divided by a diaphragm into two halves, and from the side where the vacuum is created, the main brake cylinder is installed. Vacuum (vacuum) is created by connecting this part of the body with the intake manifold of the internal combustion engine, and when the engine is not running, the channel closes the check valve installed in the VUT flange. Air (vacuum) by means of a rod and a piston when pressing the brake enhances the braking effect, thereby making it easier for the driver - there is no need to press the pedal with great force. After releasing the pedal, a powerful return spring allows the diaphragm inside the body to return to its original position. When the engine is turned off, no vacuum is created in the system and the vacuum brake booster does not work.
On cars VAZ-2106-07 and VAZ-2108-10, different software are installed outward appearance brake boosters, but the principle of operation of the devices is the same. We check the serviceability of the VUT as follows: press the brake pedal and start the engine - if the pedal “falls through” (falls under the pressure of the foot), the VUT works.
The main malfunction of the vacuum booster is damage to the diaphragm. When the diaphragm has ruptures, air flows from the outside of the housing into the vacuum cavity, and no vacuum is generated in the device. But the malfunction may not necessarily lie in the device itself - often VUT does not work due to air leaks or for other reasons:
- the "vacuum" check valve is faulty;
- air is leaking from the hose connecting the intake manifold with the brake booster;
- there is no compression in the internal combustion engine cylinder, where the vacuum comes from.
It should be noted that the vacuum brake booster on VAZ 2106-10 cars is connected by a hose to the fourth cylinder of the engine.
Repair of the VAZ 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 2110 vacuum brake booster should begin with dismantling this unit, then the VUT must be disassembled.
VUT on a VAZ-classic car is removed quite simply, and if you have minimal locksmith skills, this work is not difficult to do. We remove the node as follows:
It is not difficult to disassemble VUT 2108-2109, but for disassembly it is necessary to fix the device. We disassemble the node in the following order:
Usually, the VAZ-2109 vacuum amplifier repair kit contains a diaphragm, a cuff, a boot, covers (2 pcs.) And a valve. All parts should be changed so that later you do not have to redo the work. When assembling the vacuum amplifier, it is better to immediately fix the diaphragm to the plastic casing, so it will be easier to mount the unit. 
Which side of the spring is placed does not matter, but when assembling the amplifier, you will have to make an effort to get the holes in the housing onto the studs.
Repair of the UAZ vacuum brake booster
Malfunctions of the vacuum amplifier of UAZ vehicles can be determined by the following signs:
- the engine is troit, and since on "Uaz" motors the vacuum hose goes to the collector of the first cylinder, if the VUT is faulty, this particular cylinder is not modified;
- a hiss is heard under the hood - the diaphragm is poisoning the air;
- the brake pedal is rigid and does not squeeze when starting the engine;
- there are wet smudges between the GTZ and the amplifier (brake fluid is flowing).
If there are smudges of "brake" in the area of the VUT, it is necessary to urgently change or repair the GTZ, but if the liquid has already entered the vacuum amplifier, most likely, the VUT will have to be repaired as well.
Another one frequent malfunction in the brake system - failure of the check valve. This simple mechanism is very easy to check - you need to blow into it. The valve should be blown freely in one direction (when supplying rarefied air from the manifold), and in the opposite direction the air goes hardly. If the valve is faulty, it is blown freely in both directions.
The amplifier is removed on production vehicles Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant according to the same principle as on VAZ cars. Consider the replacement of VUT using the example of the UAZ-31519 car:
the two lower nuts of the amplifier bracket are located in the passenger compartment, they are on a turnkey basis for 17, we turn off this fastener; 
Features of repair of UAZ vacuum amplifiers
Unlike the vacuum amplifiers of VAZ cars, the VUT body on UAZ cars is very durable, and it is not at all easy to halve it. You can bend the protrusions with a pry bar and a hammer, but this is how the work is done in violation of the technology - according to the instructions, one half must be turned relative to the other. The biggest problem during disassembly is the "halving" of the case - sometimes these parts boil so much that it is impossible to disassemble the unit. Car owners of cars advise in no case to press one body into another - then turning will definitely not work.
Another problem in the repair of "vacuum cleaners" is the low quality of spare parts in the repair kit, sometimes the installed parts are not enough for six months. Motorists advise not to engage in repairs, but to buy a new spare part, although there is another disadvantage here - VUT for cars such as UAZ-469 or UAZ-452 is not cheap, about 3 thousand rubles. Alternatively, you can pick up a "vacuum" from a foreign car at a car dismantling site, which has a master brake cylinder suitable for the mountings, and install it on the car by fitting. As a result, it is cheaper and more reliable - imported parts, even in a used state, serve for several years without any complaints.
Often, after replacing the VUT, problems appear, and the car does not slow down as much as it used to be with a working "vacuum cleaner" - the brake pedal takes over at the very end, or the system does not completely release the brake. The whole point here lies in the rod, which presses on the GTZ piston - it may not be adjusted from the factory. This stem has an adjusting screw that is secured with a locknut. On UAZ vehicles (we do not take into account the Patriot model), we check the rod adjustment as follows:
Still on UAZ Hunter the pedal can "take" at the very end, and it has a large free travel. It is necessary to pay attention to the position of the pedal - if it is too low from the floor in the passenger compartment, it must be adjusted:
