In modern realities, one of the rather necessary things for a motorcyclist is the trunk. This can be especially noted among lovers of long trips and travels. It should be noted that novice motorcyclists often have the question of how to make a trunk for a motorcycle with their own hands.
The racks themselves can be divided into 2 types, these are structures for attaching wardrobe trunks, and separate ones for directly securing the load. In modern times, the first option is somewhat more practical and popular.
But consider both variations.
If you pay attention, elementary elements are quite expensive on the component market. An ordinary trunk, which you can do with your own hands, and quite quickly, will cost more than 10 thousand rubles on the market. Consider whether you need to buy a motorcycle rack, or do it yourself.
Trunk for attaching wardrobe trunks
Such a design is used when it is necessary to transport small loads. It is quite possible to make it from several metal tubes or rods. If you want a more design solution, you can do it from a sheet of metal, which will complement the style of the bike quite well. At the same time, if the manufacture is carried out from rods or pipes, then additional parts will need to be created, since it is necessary to create a completely flat plane on which the trunks will be hung.
In order not to provide those very additional components, it is best to completely manufacture the part from a solid sheet. Alternatively, the upper part can be made solid, and the fastenings using rods or tubes.
A dash cam is useful not only in cars. We will tell you how to choose it in this article. If you also own a car that also lacks space for cargo, we recommend looking at how to do it. expeditionary trunk - .
This design is intended strictly for attaching the wardrobe trunk at the top. At the same time, it is not advisable to use metal less than 3-4 millimeters thick for manufacturing, this will cause sufficient rigidity of the trunk itself, and will also improve appearance all in all. For a larger design solution, you can engrave the sides or cut out "windows". It is quite possible to do this yourself using a drill, or a grinder.
If you want something more original, you can contact specialized workshops that have equipment for laser cutting and engraving. So let's take a full look at the manufacturing process:
First you need to cut the layout out of cardboard. We attach the sheet to the wardrobe trunk and mark the boundaries of the trunk lid along the contour of its bottom. In some cases, the wardrobe trunk already has its own platform for fastening, in this situation it is necessary to carry out the top of the trunk strictly under the platform of the bag itself.
Also, when measuring, we provide projections in width, since it will be necessary to fix the entire structure, for this the edges will need to be folded.
Further, after measuring, making a layout of the site, and its direct preparation, it is necessary to prepare the fasteners. It is desirable to provide elements for fastening to the frame. At the same time, there are no clear instructions for them, here it is necessary to be guided strictly by the shape of the motorcycle frame itself. But it should be noted that the best variation would be provided on the edges of the platform, extending to the frame of the mounting tubes.
After that, it remains to paint, and then fix the trunk itself directly. Ate in the future, in addition to the top, are also planned side trunks, then additional fasteners should be provided. They can also be made from tubes or rods, fixing them to the top of the entire structure.
In some cases, the factory assembly of the saddlebag has in itself the connecting straps, while in the end the side frames are strictly necessary for support, in order to avoid friction against the wheel.
Cargo carrier
The next type is a separate cargo rack. This design appeared in Soviet times. At that time, it was made mostly of steel rods. Let's consider its features and variations of making such a trunk with our own hands.
Of course, let's move a little from the old days, and using the example of manufacturing, consider a trunk for more modern motorcycles, since they currently prevail in the world of motorcycles. Such an example would be the manufacture of a structure only from metal tubes.
First of all, you need a pipe bender. In its absence, steel rods must be used to obtain the desired beautiful bend. The complete bending procedure is carried out using a torch. The metal element heats up and slowly, gently bends.
Just think that buying a trunk for a motorcycle of this type will cost about $ 150-200. But let's go directly to the process itself:
Initially, we prepare the site. To do this, you need to cut out the rods, then fold the pieces into the desired shape.
Further, in the same way, the side parts of the trunk are prepared and welded to the general structure. For fastening, metal jumpers are used. Moreover, their size depends only on the model of the motorcycle, or rather on the features of the frame.
On the frame itself, in the places of the intended attachment, the paint is cleaned. In the future, measurements are taken and the trunk is welded to the jumpers directly to the frame. V depending on the lugs welded to the frame, it is measured and the location of the "reciprocal" lugs is noted.
Basically, all manufacturing is carried out individually, depending on the characteristics of the motorcycle itself, therefore, it is necessary to consider in more detail on the example of any of the models.
Also, it should be noted that when planning the transportation of especially heavy loads, it is necessary to provide additional support frames, bringing them to the frame, preferably closer to the central part, in which case the weight of the engine will compensate for the weight of the load. It can be made from metal bars. We drill holes in the ends, then we fix them with bolts on the base of the frame, and for reliability, we can additionally grab them by welding.
After installation, the last steps will be cleaning, degreasing and painting or varnishing, depending on personal preference.
Thus, two variations of creating a trunk for a motorcycle with your own hands were disassembled, which in turn will help as much as possible to novice motorcycle lovers. And perhaps it will be a good cheat sheet for experienced drivers who, before that, could only buy a trunk for a motorcycle, but did not know how to make it themselves.
Our main object for customizing (alterations "at home") and the most popular transport for "choppers" are "Urals", "Dnepr", "Kasiki". They are the main freight transport in the village.
Often, after "cosmetic repairs", many bikers cling back bags for different luggage and just for "effect". On the new "Urals" they can already install something like luggage carriers from the factory. This applies to the type "tourist", "Retro" (there is a small shelf in the back instead of a saddle).
But there are those who use them to the fullest. However, you can't take a lot in them, and those who use the "Solo" not for show off, but for business, sometimes there is a need to transport some kind of cargo. You can, of course, dress the motorcycle with three very voluminous strong trunks, but not everyone needs it and not everyone can afford it.
In this case, the trunk is an economy option. Unless, of course, you have not radically altered the bike. I just want to introduce you to one of homemade options given "tuning". It was built in a garage and tested on several long journeys.
The design of this trunk differs from the one that everyone is used to seeing on IZH and Java, because the Ural frame has a different design of the rear and the mufflers are lifted up.
As befits a tourist trunk, the proposed one has three cargo areas: one at the top behind the seat (Fig. 1) and two - on the sides above the mufflers (Fig. 2 and 3). They are all made of 10mm steel pipe. The unusual pentagonal shape of the sidewalls was chosen so as not to violate the main compositional lines of the "stern" of the motorcycle: the lower tube and shelf run parallel to the muffler, and the upper one - parallel to the seat. Along and across the sidewall, rods from a 6 mm bar are welded - for additional rigidity.
The sides are attached to the frame at five points, and the top shelf at four (Fig. 4). and you do not need to weld anything to the frame or drill additional holes in it. Trunk fastening elements are shown in fig. 5.
Now let's look at what each is intended for. Element A is simply a flattened end of a pipe with a 9 mm hole drilled into it. Here the sidewall is screwed on with the muffler bolt. Alternatively, a plate with a hole welded to the bottom of the pipe will fit.
At point B, the sidewall is attached to the upper bolt of the shock absorber by means of a steel angle welded to it.
The top shelf is attached to the frame at point B with a plate of suitable length. At the bottom, it connects to the direction indicator mounting points.
The spacer, with which the sidewall is mounted at point G, gives the trunk lateral rigidity. With its threaded part, it is inserted into the wing mounting hole, and the other side is bolted to the sidewall.
Rod D carries the main load on the trunk. On a motorcycle, it is mounted at the attachment point of the fender and seat using a triangular bracket E with a bolt welded to it.
A few words about the lower side shelves. They are small so as not to spoil the appearance of the motorcycle, but they are large enough to hold a 20 liter canister. Some of the narrowing of the shelf forward along the motorcycle is due to the design and repeats the location of the muffler.
The total load capacity of the luggage compartment is about 50 kg. But if you try hard and a little ingenuity, then you can come up with more impressive (if really necessary).
I think this rack can also be used with a stroller.
Own alteration of work shoes into motorboots, and now a story about iron.
We didn't always have a camera at hand during production, so some of the shots were taken with a lousy phone.
So, a few photos of the process and short description.
Trunk
To begin with, I threw a simplified sketch in CorelDraw of the motorcycle itself with a trunk. View from above. 
Thus, it became clear what I really want.
It remains to find materials. I went to the metal market, chose a square tube with a wall width of 30mm. For aesthetics it was possible and narrower, but such was not found. However, looking ahead, I will say that the trunk turned out to be, albeit somewhat bulky, but very durable. But if aesthetics are more important to you, it is better to choose a profile with a width of 25mm - the loss of strength will be insignificant, I think.
Well, he began to shred. Angle grinder (aka "grinder", aka "impeller") to help.
Rounding was done as follows: made several cuts, while trying not to damage one of the four edges of the profile. I calculated the number of cuts at random, based on the bend angle I needed and the width of the cut itself. That is why I squinted a little and sawed off too much on one of the sides. Well, nothing, welding will fix everything.
After that, with a gas burner (an ordinary Chinese one, which is put on a can for a portable stove), he heated the remaining untreated side red-hot and bent the metal that had become malleable with a light movement.
It turned out something like this: 
The next bend was more difficult. Because it was necessary to set the bevel angle precisely. I will not say that the result suited me, but on the whole it turned out what I need. True, next time I would change this angle by a few degrees. 
Well, then - the welding of the cracks obtained during sawing and the welding of the crossbars. It is easy to read, but in reality there were difficulties. No matter how delicate the inverter was, no matter how thin (2mm) electrodes were used, metal burns could not be avoided. And no wonder, because by that time I was just studying at the courses of a welder (I was leaving for exactly a month, moreover, on theory) and before that I had held this hellish device in my hands only a couple of times! But the head is what we need, because under the welding mask there are also a couple of connected neurons, and therefore I came up with such a way out: I cut out the linings from sheet metal and closed my own jambs with them.
In the picture below, I showed it schematically. 
Figures 1 and 2 just show these overlays. Figure 3 shows the edge of the luggage compartment with fastening. There I sawed off a piece of the profile, but the thickness of the remaining wall (about 1.5 mm) did not suit me and I welded another piece of a metal plate (shown in a lighter color) with a thickness of 4-5 mm. Then he drilled a technological hole in this disgrace. I did the same on the other side.
Then I bought 4 bolts of 8mm and welded them on the bottom so that it was possible to hook on a luggage net or rope to them. The idea itself was spied on my own Chinese mot, and in general, probably, all factory trunks have such fasteners.
It seems that that's all, but then he warmed it up many times, bent it back, sharpened it; I polished the curves of the weld seams ... Then I painted it, bypassing the putty process, which I didn't even think about then - the complete lack of experience affected.
It turned out far from ideal, but the trunk performs its role and has almost no effect on speed :-)
On a motorcycle, the product looks something like this: 
As you can see, the rear turn signals are located on the stems so that they are located partially under the trunk, and not on the sides of it. This is done so that these same turn signals do not break off, which previously happened repeatedly, even with a simple rolling out of the motorcycle from the garage.
So, time goes by (from the date of purchase it will soon be 2 years), the old kava finishes the stage of metamorphosis and becomes less and less like the one I met at the motor market.
Shl. I was going to talk about arcs in the same post, but I realized that it turned out to be a lot of letters, and therefore I would better prepare a separate post. If, of course, it will be interesting to someone.
ZYY. Post about arcs.
We've gotten used to seeing it on almost every motorcycle in recent years. Now cars without trunks, wind and mud shields, protective arches seem to be somehow naked. Unfortunately, our industry produces little tourist equipment for motorcycles, and its assortment is limited, and motorcycle tourists are forced to make it themselves, due to their capabilities and skills.
In this chapter, we describe the hardware requirements for motorcycles and show you how best to make them with specific examples.
Roof racks
The main tourist equipment of a motorcycle is luggage racks. They can be installed behind the passenger's saddle, on the sides of the rear wheel, on the gas tank, in some cases on the front fender of the motorcycle, and in the presence of protective arches - in the form of pencil cases on the arcs. The purpose of this placement is to distribute the load more evenly throughout the motorcycle. By the way, we want to warn you - do not hope to have a good motorcycle trip with a backpack on your shoulders: it is inconvenient and tiring.
Most of the cargo is carried by the rear rack, and when designing it, special attention must be paid to the strength and rigid connection with the motorcycle frame. But this does not mean that the trunk should be made of thick-walled tubes or steel bars. The strength and load-carrying capacity of the structure should be combined with its lightness and thoughtful location of the attachment points, without being carried away by the width of the trunk and its large extension beyond the rear axle. To lower the center of gravity, it is advisable to place the cargo area as low as possible.
The commonly used luggage rack attachment points (the upper two for the suspension and the lower two for the passenger footpegs) do not firmly connect it to the motorcycle frame. Therefore, the cargo area must be additionally connected with spacers to the rear
wing or seatpost, and tie the struts with a bow, which is fixed under the license plate bolt. The structural elements of the trunk should not interfere with the work rear suspension and prevent wheel disassembly and chain adjustment.
It is best if the rear rack allows the load to be positioned both behind the passenger seat and on the sides of the rear wheel. Structurally, this is solved in different ways. For example, side plates are attached to some luggage racks with a rear cargo area for installing hinged easily removable bags on them, other racks are provided with side cargo platforms for securing small suitcases or backpacks.
When choosing a design, preference should be given to a trunk with easily removable bags. Firstly, the hinged bags provide easy access to the rear wheel, do not interfere with adjusting the chain and are convenient in parking lots, as they can be quickly removed and taken with you, Secondly, after traveling, they can be replaced with smaller bags for everyday use. On a motorcycle, these bags will always come in handy. After all, it is much more convenient to just put small things in a bag than to puzzle over how to fix them on the trunk, or, even worse, carry them in your pocket or in your bosom.
As an example of a design that meets the listed requirements, we offer a welded roof rack developed by the authors for the Java motorcycles (Fig. 7). It has been in operation for many years and has successfully passed strength tests in long journeys on various roads.
Rice. 7. Rear rack with bags for everyday use.
Manufacturing technology and assembly of the trunk elements are as follows (Fig. 8). From steel seamless tubes with a diameter of 12? 1 or 12? I, 5 mm, blanks of the base 1 (2 pcs.), Crossbeams 2 (3 pcs.) And struts 3 (2 pcs.) Are made. Rear inserts 4 (2 pcs.) Are bent from bars of the same diameter (elements - base blanks, struts and inserts - can be replaced with solid tubes bent along the radius of the inserts). Base blanks and struts with upper 5 (2 pcs.) And lower 6 (2 pcs.) Earrings welded to them are fixed to the motorcycle, and the rear suspension mounting bolts are replaced with special bolts 9 (2 pcs.). Having connected the base and struts with the rear inserts, the crossbeams 2 and spacers are welded onto the wing 7 (2 pcs.), Having previously protected the rear wing with a sheet of metal or asbestos. Then the trunk is removed, the lower and side brackets for belts 8 (6 pcs.), Ears 10 (6 pcs.) For the side plates are welded and the joints of the elements are finally welded. The use of the motorcycle as a slipway eliminates the possible distortion of the trunk during welding and guarantees the coincidence of the seats.
Rice. 8. Rear trunk: a - assembled (side and top view); b - insert (blank); c - upper earring; g - lower earring;
d - bolt of the upper mounting of the rear suspension 
Side plates 1 (2 pcs.), On which the easily removable bags will be installed, are cut from steel sheet 2 mm thick (Fig. 9). Each plate has one elliptical and four shaped grooves, which ensure the movement of the bag fastening elements. (A large cutout can be made in the middle to lighten the plate.) Naturally, the same grooves should be used for the installation of hinged travel bags and bags for everyday use, and the dimensions of the plates should be the same as those of smaller bags. Each plate is bolted to the trunk at three points. In addition, they are connected to the tool and battery boxes with right 2 and left 3 brackets that envelop the rear shock absorbers from the inside. In the boxes for fastening, the bracket is drilled in two holes for the bolts.
Rice. 9. Side plate of the luggage carrier for the installation of easily removable bags, right and left (a); right bracket for attaching the plate to the toolbox (b); left bracket for attaching the plate to the battery box (c); fungus (g); hairpin (d); fixing bracket (e) 
In this design, as well as in others where bags are used, we recommend using canvas sports bags with side lacing. Their capacity is adjustable thanks to the lacing, which is convenient when traveling. It is useful to additionally stitch the seams of the knapsacks with coarse threads, and remove the shoulder straps and strengthen the bottom and front wall with them. The back wall also needs to be strengthened - rivet a sheet of duralumin 1-1.5 mm thick.
Instead of sports bags, you can use hunting game bags or you can make shopping bags. In any case, the seams must be duplicated, and the back wall must be made rigid. To prevent the bottom of the bag from sagging during movement, attach to it
belt. Subsequently, when things are in the bag, pull the belt up and fasten it in the buckle located under the passenger's saddle or in the area of the rear handle of the motorcycle.
A useful addition to the bag is the carrying strap. The elements of an easily removable fastening of each bag are four mushrooms 4 and one stud 5, which are screwed with nuts to the back wall. During hanging
bags, these parts enter the grooves of the trunk plate, and then the bag is pushed down. To fix the bag in the lower position, a bracket 6 is provided. When put on the hairpin, it rests with the folded part against the side plate and does not allow the bag to move upwards. The bracket is fixed with a wing or nut.
Roof racks with side cargo areas look different; they are carried out either with or without a rear cargo area. An example of a trunk without a rear platform is a design developed at the Java plant (Fig. 10, 11). It consists of two assembled frames, upper and lower (left and right) struts, spacers. These parts are connected to each other using bolts.
Rice. 10. Trunk with side cargo platforms. 
Rice. 11. Trunk frame (a); lower brace (b); upper brace (c); spacer (g) 
Both trunk frames 1 and their cross members 2 are made of steel seamless tubes with a diameter of 10 × 1.5 mm; reinforcements 3 and lining 4 are made of steel strip 3 mm thick. The lower left strut consists of a strut 5 made of a tube with a diameter of 16 × 2 mm, an overlay 6 and a support 7 made of steel sheet 3 mm thick. The lower right brace is a mirror image of the lower left brace. The upper left brace consists of a brace 8, made of a tube with a diameter of 12 × 1.5 mm, and a lining 9, made of the same material as similar parts. The upper right brace is also a mirror image of the left one. Finally, for spacer 10, a tube with a diameter of
12 x 1.5 mm.
On motorcycles, the rack is secured at the top points with bolts that pull the seatpost to the frame, and at the bottom points with the passenger footrest bolts. A roof rack with side cargo areas, which is also equipped with a rear platform, allows more luggage to be transported in comparison with the previous design (Fig. 12 and 13).
Rice. 12. Trunk with side and rear cargo platforms.
Rice. 13. Drawing of the trunk with side and rear cargo platforms. 
A typical design of such a trunk was made by motorcycle tourist E. Kustarev, using steel seamless tubes with a diameter of 14 × 1 mm, and for the lining of fastening the trunk to a motorcycle - sheet steel 2 mm thick. The main parts of the trunk are bolted together. Note that these two carriers create certain inconveniences when removing the wheel and adjusting the target. Their insufficiently rigid connection with the motorcycle frame can be eliminated by installing spacers connecting the trunk to the fender in the area of the rear handle.
The Moscow Automobile Tourist Club has developed a luggage compartment design, characterized in that the upper mounts (on the shock absorber bolts) are hinged, and the lower (at the footrests) are forked (Fig. 14). This allows, after loosening the lower bolts, to pivot the rack around the upper attachment points, which opens up free access to the rear wheel and chain.
Rice. 14. Folding trunk. 
As we said, the top bolts are best used as the base attachment points for the rack on a motorcycle. rear shock absorbers and the passenger footrest bolts. For those who are going to make luggage racks for motorcycles of other brands, a table with the distances between these points is provided. For owners of motorcycles "Voskhod", M-105, we also recommend equipping their cars with more fundamental luggage carriers, since the branded ones in terms of carrying capacity and capacity do not satisfy the tourist.
Of course, it is not always possible to make a rear rack with hanging bags or side cargo racks. Sometimes you have to be content with a simpler design that does not require welding. In such cases, you can limit yourself to the installation of easily removable bags (Fig. 15, 16). They are hung on side plates, which in turn need to be attached to the seatpost, rear fender and brackets to the tool and battery boxes.
Rice. 15. Easily removable bags on side plates. 
Rice. 16. Side plate and bag fastening elements 
The brackets are high enough to not restrict the maximum travel of the rear fork and chain guard. If the trip will take place without a passenger, another way of placing baggage is possible. In this case, a motor backpack is put on the back of the saddle-cushion (fig. 17).
It is not difficult to sew it yourself or order it from a workshop that makes car seat covers. They sew a motor backpack made of leatherette or thick tarpaulin, and put it on the saddle, pull it down with belts at the bottom. The backpack is roomy and can be easily removed.
Rice. 17. Motorcycle backpack. 
So far, we have been talking about structures for placing cargo on the rear of the motorcycle. For things to be under
hand, it is useful to have a small trunk on the gas tank (fig. 18). It can also be useful for transporting photo and film cameras,
transistor receiver and other fragile items. When designing a trunk on a gas tank, it is necessary to provide for freedom of control of the motorcycle, convenience for the driver to sit and refuel.
In the given design, the base of the trunk is two tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm, welded by the upper ends of I; a clamp covering the neck of the tank. The lower ends of the tubes have lugs through which a bolt is passed to secure the tank.
on the frame (the gap between the tubes and the tank is about 2 mm). The clamp is made of 2mm steel. Its outer diameter
8-10 mm more than the inner one. A sleeve and a nut are welded to the ends of the clamp, into which the lag screw is screwed (Fig. 19). The connection points of the clamp with other parts should not interfere with the closing of the gas tank cap. A metal basket is welded to the tubes, made in such a way as to ensure the installation of a bag on the trunk.
Rice. 18. The trunk on the gas tank. 
Rice. 19. Securing the trunk on the neck of the gas tank. 
Perhaps the best for this purpose will be the cases for the "Kvarts-2" cinema apparatus and the "Zenit-6" camera. They are quite expensive, but the design and configuration are the most convenient. Cases are made of good-quality leather, the sides and bottom are soft
gaskets, and covers are provided with locks. Unnecessary partitions from the cases can be removed or installed in a suitable location. (In the heat of rework, don't cut off the carrying strap; you'll need it at stops.)
Some motorcyclists install roof racks on the front fender of the motorcycle. The use of such a rack is justified if the motorcycle has a fixed wing. The trunk is made in the form of a frame and is installed so that the load does not obscure the headlight. On single motorcycles, especially those where the fender is attached to the moving parts of the fork stays, such a rack cannot be made. Firstly, it will increase the weight of the unsprung mass and make it difficult to control, and secondly, things will end up on a kind of vibration table.
For all types of racks, it is best to use stainless steel tubing. Trunks made of such tubes, after careful filing of the seams and polishing with fine sandpaper, acquire an elegant look for a long time and do not corrode. But keep in mind that not every welding workshop knows how to cook "stainless steel". If you use regular steel tubing, the trunks can be chrome-chromed or painted to match the color of the motorcycle.
Protective arcs
On a motorcycle on a long journey, it is a good idea to have roll bars (fig. 20). This is not a tribute to fashion, but a useful addition to increase driving safety. The rails are designed to protect the rider from injury in the event of a fall and to protect the motorcycle from damage. It is convenient to install pencil cases for things, a fog lamp, mud guards on them. The arcs should be designed in such a way that when the motorcycle rolls over to one side, the steering wheel and the tank do not touch the road.
Rice. 20. Motorcycle with bumpers and wind deflectors. 
We offer a design of arcs that meet these requirements (Fig. 21) and, moreover, allow. install on them easily removable guards to protect the driver's feet from dirt (the description of the guards is given below).
Arcs 1 are bent from seamless steel pipe. Most suitable size- with a diameter of 25 × 2.5 mm. To achieve the required radius, a pipe bender is good - a common tool for plumbers. In the absence of a pipe bender, the arcs are bent on a suitable blank, having previously filled the pipes with sand and heated them with a gas torch for welding. Use a plywood template to make the right and left arcs symmetrical. The upper bracket 2 and the lower pads 3, with which the arcs are attached to the motorcycle, are made of sheet steel. After fitting to the motorcycle frame, these parts are welded to the halves of the arcs. As with welding the trunk, the motorcycle can be used as a slipway. When finally installing the arches on the frame, do not forget to put the spacer sleeves 4, 5 on the tie bolts.
The offered arches are designed for motorcycles "Java-350". Leaving the general configuration, but changing dimensions and seats, arcs can be installed on motorcycles of other brands.
It should also be said about the coverage of arcs. In our opinion, it is more correct to paint them white rather than chrome. B dark time day, white is better visible to others, which is important from a safety point of view. In addition, paint is more practical than chrome plating: if the motorcycle accidentally falls, it is easier to paint over the scratched area than to re-chrome everything. So that the arcs visually connect with the motorcycle and do not look like a foreign body, it does not interfere with painting them in the color of the motorcycle in the area of connection with the frame, at an area of 10-15 cm. Although the work of making arches is quite laborious, motorcyclists will often be convinced of their usefulness during travel.
The cases for the things we mentioned are sewn from waterproof fabric or made of aluminum. Pencil cases should be easily removable and can be secured to arcs with straps.
Rice. 21. Design of protective arcs. 
Wind deflector
An invaluable service on a long journey is rendered to a motorcycle tourist by a wind shield (Fig. 20, 22). It protects against wind, dust and bad weather, and when properly configured, improves the aerodynamics of the motorcycle. True, the wind deflectors have their disadvantages: while creating comfort for the driver, they somewhat worsen the passenger's driving conditions due to the turbulence arising behind the flap. It is better to make the "visor" in two parts (the upper one is made of organic glass, the lower one is made of aluminum). It is much easier to make such a shield than from whole glass, and it breaks less often.
The manufacturing technology can be as follows. A base is cut out of a sheet of aluminum with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. Then they give it the necessary shape by trying on the base on a motorcycle. Hand sockets are cut from metal of the same grade and thickness and riveted to the base with blind rivets or butt welded. This method is easier than knocking out the sockets from a whole sheet. The required rigidity of the flap is given by the flanging made along the edge. After filing the seams, the base is painted to match the color of the motorcycle, and the edges are trimmed with PVC edging or a rubber tube cut lengthwise.
The most important job is making the transparent part of the "visor". Having made a pattern out of paper, bend it along the axis of symmetry and check the coincidence of the edges. Transfer the outline of the pattern to a thin sheet of metal or other hard material and cut out the template. Place the template on a 4-5 mm thick plexiglass sheet, protecting the latter from scratches with paper. To prevent the template from moving on the glass, it is a good idea to tighten the entire package with clamps. The glass is cut with a jigsaw, a hacksaw blade, or a cutter made from a piece of cloth sharpened in the form of a crochet hook.
To give the glass the required curvature, the plexiglass is heated. This is best done over a gas stove. Put on gloves on your hands and move the glass over the burners with rotational movements, without bringing it close to the fire. When you feel the pliability of the glass, gradually bend it, but no longer over the fire. As soon as the glass becomes elastic, reheat and bend it, checking the result against the base of the "visor". This work requires patience and accuracy, otherwise the glass will crack and all the work will go down the drain. It is necessary to cool the glass in air at room temperature, preventing it from straightening.
Rice. 22. Dimensions and pattern of windscreen glass.
Now you can start assembling. Wrap the bottom end of the glass with thin rubber or PVC, clamp it between the base and the pre-cut metal plate and drill holes for 4 mm screws in one pass. The screws should not be too close to the edges of the glass. If a small crack appears on the glass while working with the shield, "stop" its advance with a small hole drilled at the end of the crack.
When attaching the windshield to the motorcycle, a prerequisite must be observed - a rigid connection between the windscreen and the motorcycle so that the glass does not vibrate on the move. You can do it this way. On the steering wheel Clamps or split clamps are installed, to the upper parts of which are attached racks connecting the steering wheel to the base of the "visor". As racks, you can use steel rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm, bent at the desired angle (Fig. 23). Lower part of the base
the shield is attached to the lower beam of the fork by rods, which are fixed with bolts tightening the fork stays.
Very important correct installation"Visor". One should look at the road not through the flap, but over it, since any contamination of the glass impairs visibility. The upper edge of the glass should lie just below eye level, and direct the air flow to the clone of the shield a few centimeters above the head. But remember, a steep slope is dangerous. When driving over an obstacle, the motorcyclist stands up on the footpegs and may hit his chin against the edge of the glass.
The geometry of the "visor" is no less important. Excessive width of the deflector makes it difficult to control the motorcycle in a crosswind.
The normal width and radius of curvature of the glass should allow an air flow of 3-5 cm from the driver's shoulders. When installing the "visor" on a motorcycle with a side trailer, keep in mind that the air reflected from the guard must not get onto the passenger in the sidecar. In conclusion, conduct sea trials "visor" and, if necessary, engage in finishing work.
Rice. 23. Installing the windshield on the motorcycle. 
Mud guards and wheel hoods.
It is also helpful to take care of the protection of the legs. The sun does not always illuminate the long road, and driving with wet feet is a little pleasure. Therefore, we suggest that tourists install mud guards on their motorcycle.
However, performing the main function of protecting the feet from wind and dirt, they should not touch the road on bends, interfere with the operation of the pedals, vibrate and rattle when driving.
For the manufacture of shields, sheet aluminum is suitable, which is easy to give the desired shape. You can also use
deep front fenders on motorcycles such as Java or Ch3. The widest part of the wing is used, from which the stretch marks are removed. The shields are interconnected by two transverse steel strips and fixed to the front strut of the frame using brackets. If the motorcycle has arcs, then the shields are fixed on the upper and lower crossbars of the arches with clamps. It is not necessary to have mud guards permanently on the motorcycle. It is possible to offer a variant of easily removable shields, made in the form of covers, put on the arcs only if necessary (Fig. 24). Covers are sewn in the shape of arcs from rubberized fabric, oilcloth or thin tarpaulin. Rings are attached to one cover, two elastic bands with hooks are attached to the other. Covers are put on arcs and tightened with elastic bands. When making a pattern for such shields, do not forget about the free passage of air to cool the engine. These covers slip on quickly at the first raindrops and, when folded, take up little space.
Rice. 24. Covers-mud flaps on the arches. 
But as good as mud guards are, they will not help enough if the machine has shallow fenders that do little to protect against splashing from the wheels. In this case, it is a good idea to additionally baptize the wheels by screwing metal linings to the wing sides. To prevent the lining from spoiling the appearance of the motorcycle, they are wound from the inside.
Rubber mudguards suspended at the ends of the front and rear fenders will help protect the driver's feet and the passenger's back from dirt. To keep the mudguards from dangling, they are cut out of hard rubber and bent to fit the fenders.
But all these measures are justified if the tourist route passes mainly along good roads... If you have to travel a significant part of the way along dirt roads and there is a fear that they may be washed out by rains, then the deep wings will make it difficult to move. This is especially true for the front fender, which is fixed to the movable part of the fork and has a small gap with the tire. Such a wing will become clogged with mud, which can lead to a wedge wheel and fall. To correct the situation, you can bend the fender mount on the fixed elements of the front fork. For example, on motorcycles "Java" (Fig. 25), the supporting element of the wing can be a steel rod 1, passed through a hole in the steering column and secured with a nut under the headlamp cover. A pad 2 made of 1.5-2 mm steel sheet is welded to the rod. The wing struts are cut and riveted to a new location. The wing is mounted on the machine and connected to the pad with two M8 bolts, and the spacers are tightened with clamps on the front fork covers. This reworking of the front fender mounts will increase the bike's flotation, and don't complain if the fender has less splash protection. Something must be waived.
Rice. 25. Attaching the wing to the fixed part of the front fork. 
Some travel gadgets.
When preparing to travel, it is helpful to equip your motorcycle with other travel gear. So, on the way, a side stop will come in handy: in case of a short stop, a heavily loaded machine does not have to be dragged onto a support; setting up the motorcycle on slopes or on soft ground will be much easier (fig. 26).
Rice. 26. Side stop. 
Motorcycle tourists, whose travel route runs mainly off asphalt roads, may find it useful to have a sports steering wheel, which differs from the standard one in greater width, height and the presence of a crossbar that increases its rigidity. A motorcycle with a wide handlebar is easier to hold when riding on a bumpy road, on gravel, in sand, or in the event of a punctured tire. Since such steering wheels are most often homemade, the following circumstances must be taken into account when designing them. The material for the steering wheel should be a seamless tube. The width and bend of the steering wheel should be such that when turning, the driver does not have to change the position of the body and reach behind the wheel. In height, the handlebars should be no higher than the level of the chest, and their position should be such that the hands lie freely on the handles. A common mistake should be avoided when a poorly designed steering wheel forces the driver to sit leaning back. This landing is tedious, makes it difficult to get up on the footpegs, and bend forward on steep climbs.
It is also necessary to think about the comfort of riding a motorcycle on a long journey. Comfort is created not only by the correct location of the footpegs, handlebars, levers, but also by the comfortable saddle. Recently, motorcycle factories have been installing saddle-cushions on motorcycles. These saddles are comfortable if they are wide enough. Narrow pillows are not suitable for long trips: you won't sit on them for a long time. If your car has a narrow saddle, sew a cover with foam or foam rubber side inserts. The cover expanding the pillow is sewn from leatherette; the inserts are glued with 88 glue and fixed with coarse threads. Belts are sewn to the bottom edge of the cover, which are tightened under the pillow. If you are going to travel without a passenger, such a cover can be combined with a motor backpack. To increase the comfort of the passenger's ride, some set for
saddle upholstered back.
This is especially useful on cars with short pillows, for example, on Vyatka scooters. old model... On "Vyatka" and "Tula-200" the footrests, which are made of bent steel plates, will come in handy. To prevent the legs from jumping off, rubber pads from the skis are riveted to the footpegs.
Any motorcycle tourist who wants to be well prepared for the trip has a motorcycle - a wide field of activity for technical creativity. So, in addition to making trunks, arches, "visor" and other devices, you can modify the electrical equipment of the machine, expand its capabilities, and make it more convenient.
Let's start with the fog lamp. It is installed on the lower right crossbar of the arch (fig. 29). The low position of the headlight allows it to be used effectively when driving in fog. It is desirable that the headlamp gives yellow light... If there is no yellow glass or lamp, a yellow flexible filter can be inserted between the lamp and the glass. These filters are used in lighting equipment and are sold at theater supply stores.
The right-hand position of the headlight meets the requirements for traffic safety at night. When driving oncoming traffic, drivers
cars "ask" them not to blind them and switch from low beam to parking. But it is dangerous to ride with such a light, especially for motorcyclists.
The transition to the parking light plus an additional headlight eliminates the dazzle of the drivers, and the motorcyclist sees the road and the right side of the road. The headlamp is connected to the parking light terminal through a special toggle switch. By the way, the location of the fog lamp near the main one often found on motorcycles, in our opinion, is nothing more than decoration.
There is another type of additional headlight - a swivel headlight with a hinge device. The need for such a headlamp is especially felt on cars with a fixed main headlamp (for example, on a motorcycle "MC", scooters "Tula", "Cesetta" and others). Install the swivel headlamp next to the main headlamp on the steering wheel or on the upper crossbar of the arc. If you install such a headlamp on a motorcycle sidecar, it is best to place it on the left side of the sidecar so that the driver can reach it with his hand. A headlamp can be useful when choosing a path on a bad section of the road, when navigating at night on the ground. Should
keep in mind that for its installation you need a permit from the traffic police.
Fig. 29. Installation of a fog lamp on a protective arch. 
The direction indicator lights will be of great benefit in the city and on the highways. Some motorcycle factories equip their cars with "flashing lights". If your "crew" is not equipped with signs, we advise you to do so.
The direction indicator lights should be spaced as wide as possible and lamps with a power of at least 15 watts should be installed in them. Try to use lamps of the same type as those installed on the motorcycle - this will allow, in the event of a burnout of one of them, to borrow it from another, less responsible, place. For motorcycle direction indicators, 6-volt RS-419 relays have been released. You can also take a car 12-volt relay PC-57, which has a screw for adjusting the blinking intervals. By adjusting the PC-57 relay, it is possible to make it work in a 6-volt electrical system.
The relay is placed in the headlight of the motorcycle. A turn indicator switch is installed next to the throttle grip (Fig. 30). It can be made on the basis of a standard light switch, making a small alteration. On motorcycles "Java", for example, a contact plate with a spring is removed in the switch, and a small recess is drilled in the middle lamella to fix the neutral position (Fig. 31).
Rice. thirty 
Rice. 31 
If the front direction indicators are not visible to the driver, the system must be monitored. For this, a warning light is placed on the headlight. If the indicator lights are installed on the windshield, holes are drilled under them so that the light from the bulbs is visible to the driver.
Side trailer equipment.
All of our considerations about design additions were about solo bikes. The same devices, with the possible exception of the arches of the side stop and the right hinged bag, are useful to make on a motorcycle with a sidecar. On the stroller itself, an additional trunk behind the passenger's seat will come in handy, where it is convenient to arrange oversized things, for example, a tent. In the places where the trunk supports are installed, the body of the stroller is reinforced with metal plates from the outside and from the inside. The trunk is made of steel tubes with a diameter of 10-12 mm (Fig. 32). To prevent the luggage from slipping, the cargo area should have a small backrest.
A significant advantage of motorcycles with a sidecar is the ability to carry with you spare wheel... On motorcycles "Izh", "Pannonia" it is placed on a special bracket attached to the rear of the left side of the trailer. Bracket designs vary. It is only important to reinforce the stroller body from the inside by installing it in its place. When positioned laterally, the wheel does not interfere with the motorcycle passenger and is easily accessible.
An awning can be a very useful addition to the stroller, especially when traveling with a child. The awning should be folding, compact and light. This is how one motorcyclist on the side trailer BP-62 solved this issue (Fig. 33). Four duralumin arches serve as the base of the awning. They are covered with a thin tarpaulin (other soft, durable, waterproof material can also be used). The frame hinges are attached to the sides of the stroller. The posterior arch is motionless. When raised, the tarpaulin is fastened to the frame of the windscreen. In places of contact with glass, the front arch
edged with microporous rubber (fig. 34). A small rear window made of thin plexiglass would do the trick for this awning. When designing such an awning, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of opening it by the passenger from the inside and ensuring a good tension of the tarpaulin.
Rice. 32. Trunk and spare wheel mount on the sidecar. 
Rice. 33. Folding awning on a motorcycle sidecar. 
Rice. 34. Sketch of the awning on the wheelchair: 1 - hinge mount, support cushion and an M8 bolt; 2 - bracket and bolts M6; 3 - arc 1600 mm long; 4 - waterproof weaving; 6 - arc 2000 mm long; 6 - arc 1900 mm long; 7 - arc 1620 mm long;
8 - foam rubber gasket 
Rear trailer.
A special conversation will focus on the one-wheeled rear trailer. In some countries, for example in Czechoslovakia, Poland, the German Democratic Republic, such trailers are widespread.
While retaining all the advantages of single-track transport, the rear trailer expands the capabilities of a single motorcycle, facilitates the placement of cargo during travel. If it takes a lot of time to secure the luggage to the motorcycle, the trailer makes it easier. Attaching it to a motorcycle or scooter takes a few minutes - just insert the kingpin, pin it and connect the plug connector for the electric lighting rear light trailer.
Starting off on a motorcycle with a trailer is simple. The car does not drive from side to side. Movement with him is not difficult. Cornering with a rear trailer is easy; this advantage over a side trailer is especially felt on mountain roads. There is no tendency for the rear trailer to skid when braking the motorcycle, which is not the case for a side trailer without a brake.
There are, of course, some features of driving a motorcycle with a trailer. The speed should be limited to 70-75 km / h - after all, additional loads are transferred to the motorcycle frame, and the small trailer wheel “feels” every pothole on the road. Certain skills are also required to reverse a motorcycle with a trailer.
The PAV-40 trailer produced by the Czechoslovak industry can give an idea of the design of the rear trailer (Fig. 35). Its supporting frame consists of one high quality steel tube with a diameter of 25 mm. Two cross members are welded to it, to which the body is attached with the help of 4 rubber pads. In the center of the frame, an arc is welded to protect the sides of the trailer in the event of a fall. The suspension system consists of two telescopic shock absorbers, the wheel is located in the pendulum fork. The body is steel, stamped, has several stiffening ribs. From above it is closed with a lid with a lock. On the rear wall of the trailer there is a number plate and signal lights. The electrical wiring is connected with a plug connector to the tail lamp.
Rice. 35. Rear trailer RAU-40 and hinge-hitch for connecting it to a motorcycle. 
Towing device made of four steel tubes connected in one unit. The risers have lugs and are attached to the motorcycle by the upper rear shock absorbers and the passenger footrest bolts. Two ears with holes for the pivot pin of the rotary device are welded to the tube junction.
In recent years, rear trailers have begun to appear on the roads of our country, and everywhere they are of great interest. Without waiting for the industry to master the production of one-wheeled trailers, some motorists began to make them themselves.
The rear trailer was successfully designed by a motorcycle tourism enthusiast B. Ezdakov (Fig. 36). The frame of his trailer consists of two parallel steel tubes connected by cross members. Lugs are welded to the frame, to which the body is attached through rubber blocks. The body frame is assembled from duralumin corners, facing from aluminum sheets. The lower part of the telescopic shock absorber is fixed on a movable platform, which makes it possible to correctly adjust its inclination (Fig. 37). The platform, in turn, has elliptical holes and is bolted to the frame lugs.
Rice. 36. Rear trailer designed by B. Ezdakov. 
Rice. 37. Installing the telescopic shock absorber on the rear trailer. 
The hitch assembly and swivel device are more perfect than those of the PAV-40 trailer described above. This design provides a better connection with the motorcycle, since the backlash in the joints is reduced, which is important for the trailer's quick response to vehicle maneuvers (fig. 38). In addition, the hitch is a trunk with a rear platform and small side bags.
Rice. 38. Diagram of the rear trailed carriage. 
One of the authors had the opportunity to extensively test this trailer, both empty and fully loaded. The tests took place on mountain serpentine roads and on highways at speeds up to 90 km / h. Driving performance score is the highest,
When designing such a trailer, one should refrain from inflating the dimensions of the body: after all, a motorcycle does not truck tractor... A hitch mounted on a motorcycle can be made more delicate by using tubes with a diameter of 14-16 mm. However, it is necessary to say that while the traffic police do not always give permission for the operation of homemade rear trailers due to the lack of technical requirements to which the trailers must respond. The question about them will obviously be resolved soon, and the trailers will acquire the rights of citizenship.
In conclusion, I would like to draw the reader's attention to the aesthetic side when designing additional devices. Successfully found outlines are pleasing to the eye, and we must strive to make homemade tourist equipment organically fit into the contours of the car and harmonize with them.
Useful little things.
Now, perhaps it's time to talk about some of the "little things" that create certain conveniences in travel, facilitate the operation of the machine, allowing you to have spare parts and tools at hand. At first glance, they may seem superfluous, but as experienced people say: "You never notice the little things when they are, and you really feel their absence."
In addition to various devices of our own design, we offer you a description of a number of devices offered by other motorcyclists (based on the materials of the magazine "Za Rulem").
1. How much gasoline is in the tank? A motorist will answer such a question quickly by looking at the device. The motorcyclist has to determine the amount of gasoline "by eye". The simplest gas meter will help to increase the measurement accuracy (Fig. 39). It is made from a textolite rod or other material that is well wetted with gasoline. The rod is lowered vertically into the tank, where gasoline is poured in 1 liter, and the corresponding risks are made on the rod. The number of liters is written above each line, and the gas meter is ready.
Rice. 39. The simplest benzometer 
Rice. 40. Float gas meter
2. You can use a more complex design of the gas meter, the advantage of which is that the pointer is constantly in the tank (Fig. 40). From a three-millimeter steel wire, guides are bent in the form of a letter P and a thread is cut at the ends. In a foam float with holes for guides, a light tube is fixed - an indicator with graduation in liters. Three holes are drilled in the flange of the tank neck and through them the tube and the ends of the guides are brought out with pre-screwed lower nuts. Then screw on the guide top nuts and tighten them. In this case, the lower part of the guides with the PVC tube put on it should abut against the bottom of the tank. At the upper end of the indicator, a flag is fixed with a screw, which allows the indicator to be fixed in the lowered position.
3. A measuring cup for oil is needed on the road, because not all columns are equipped with mixers. The most suitable place for him is in the grid of the gas tank. The cup can be used metal or plastic. On its inner wall, risks are applied that determine the amount of oil per 1 and 2 liters of gasoline. If the cup does not fit in the factory mesh, you will have to unsolder it from the support ring and solder a new, deeper one. On machines where there is no mesh at all, install it. It will always come in handy on the road when refueling from a "random" bucket.
4. On a number of motorcycles, access to the battery and tool boxes is possible after lifting the saddle - cushion, which is inconvenient on a long journey. We advise you to install internal locks on the covers (locks from Pannonia motorcycle drawers or door locks from GAZ cars are suitable after appropriate revision).
5. In the battery box of some motorcycles, you can use the space rationally by sliding the battery to the side as far as possible. A polyethylene flask or metal jar for 400-500 cm3 is placed in the vacant space next to the battery engine oil... There is also a place for the ignition setting indicator, spare fuses, a gas meter and other items (Fig. 41). Fastening is carried out with clamps installed on the walls.
Rice. 41. Use of space in the battery box. 
6. A lot of grief can be caused by the battery electrolyte, which got on the chrome-plated muffler. To avoid this, wrap the battery in a sheet of thin rubber or plastic wrap. The cover should be 15-20 mm higher than the terminals. The battery must not be completely wrapped: the gas released during charging must have a free outlet to the atmosphere. The battery cover is held in place by a rubber ring.
7. For refueling on the Road it is good to have a gas hose with you. As a hose, you can use a 1.5-2 m rubber tube sold in pharmacies. Such a tube, coiled into a spiral, can be stored under a rubber ring on the battery.
torus.
8. Most of the tools a motorcyclist needs a screwdriver and a spark plug wrench. Therefore, it is advisable not to wrap them in a bag, but to install them in special clamps located in the tool box. Spare spark plugs can be conveniently stored in holders next to candle key... To protect the electrodes, plastic bottle caps are put on the candles. By the way, the tool bag will not interfere with closing the box if it is pressed against the wall with a rubber ring thrown over the hooks (Fig. 42).
Rice. 42. Use of space in the toolbox. 
9. To avoid losing small parts during the night repair of the carburetor or other components, use the folded covers of the battery or tool box. In this case, the "engine compartment" lamps installed in the boxes will help a lot.
10. It is necessary to have a portable lamp on the road. Alligator clips are soldered to the ends of its cord. To keep your hands free during repairs, the "carrier" is tied to a rubber ring, and the ring is put on the head.
The mounting of the portable lamp may be different. Hardware stores sell small magnetic door latches. Attach the magnet of such a latch to the "carrier". Now it can be "glued" to any metal object.
12. On some machines, the seatpost is used successfully for stowing small items. On the Java-350, for example, a shelf is conveniently mounted around the suction silencer, which is attached by the front part to the second screw connecting the lining. With its rear part it rests on the tool and battery box holders. For ease of installation, the shelf is made integral.
13. On some motorcycles the edge of the front fender is low off the road. Improving the protection of the driver from road dirt, such a wing clings when driving over relatively small road obstacles. To increase the cross-country ability of the motorcycle, you can trim the lower part of the wing, and in order not to impair its protective properties, you can add a rubber apron bent to the shape of the wing.
14. Every motorcyclist knows how sometimes it takes a long time to "ask" the car in front to give way. Low signal strength does not convey a “cry from the heart” to the driver. Therefore, we recommend equipping the motorcycle with dual sound signals. You will see the advantages of dual signals when overtaking heavy trucks and when driving on serpentine mountain roads. The signals tuned in overtone to the maximum volume are fixed on a special bracket with grilles in front. When installing signals under the headlight, remember that they should not interfere with the full travel of the front fork.
15. In the usefulness of a rear-view mirror, hardly anyone will have to convince, In the city, on the highway or when traveling in groups, it is simply necessary. Therefore, be sure to equip the car with a mirror, or even two - right and left. Some riders install a mirror on the windscreen, others on the handlebars or at the end of the handlebars. Preference should be given to fixing the mirror at the end of the steering wheel. With this setting, the image will not be partially obscured by the driver's hand or shoulder. True, there is a greater chance of losing the mirror when the car falls and it is not very convenient to lean it against a tree in the forest; however this is not so
significant compared to a good overview. By the way, the mirror on a short rigid rod vibrates less, and the image in this case is not “blurred”.
16. Not all cars have the ability to fix the mirror at the end of the steering wheel, since some factories install direction indicators in this place. On the "Vyatka" VP-150 M scooter, in order to combine these two necessary parts, the mirror is fixed as follows. An adapter washer 2 is made of steel sheet 3 mm thick. Four holes with a diameter of 3 mm with countersinks are drilled in the nut 1 securing the direction indicator lamp and in the adapter washer. Then the nut and washer are connected with countersunk rivets. The mirror bracket 3 is fixed on the ledge of the adapter washer. The holes for the rivets are marked by pre-installing the nut, bracket and mirror (Fig. 43).
17. Some motorcycle tourists duplicate the mirror located on the motorcycle with a medical mirror attached to the temple of the glasses (Fig. 44). Such a mirror helps a lot on roads with frequent turns, when the reflection in the main mirror goes to the side, and it is undesirable to turn around. The leg of the mirror is held on the frame of the glasses with rubber rings. Before installation, it must be bent at right angles.
Rice. 43. Mounting the mirror on the handlebars of the Vyatka motor scooter and V-150 M 
Rice. 44. Installation of a medical mirror on the bow of the glasses. Angles of reflection when looking forward and to the side
18. If most of the route runs on dirt roads, it does not hurt to have bracelets worn on rear wheel... This is especially useful for a motorcycle with a sidecar on a road muddy from the rain. Bracelet belts can be made from rubberized fabric 4 mm thick or an old conveyor belt, after cutting off several layers. Belt width 35 mm, length 500-550 mm (depending on the size of the balloon). Lugs are made from a 3-mm steel sheet and bent in the shape of the tire. On the wheel, the bracelets are tightened with bolts passed through the metal plates attached to the ends of the belt (Fig. 45).
Rice. 45. Installation of bracelets with a lug on the wheel 
19. If your motorcycle does not have side and rear handles, we advise you to make them. They make it easier to put a luggage-laden motorcycle on. parking and come in handy when pulling out of the mud. The brace handles must be rigidly connected to the frame.
20. To drain water that may get into the chain guard during rain or when crossing a ford, drill in the bottom
point of the casing a hole with a diameter of 2-2.5 mm.
