Homemade ATV from MT. Kvadracikl. How to make a real ATV out of a motorcycle, walk-behind tractor or moped yourself. Drawings, diagrams and methods for assembling a homemade ATV from scrap materials in the garage. Do-it-yourself ATV from oki

Currently, the ATV is a popular vehicle. It is quite easy to operate, has good cross-country ability and a high degree of maneuverability.

However, such an all-terrain vehicle is quite expensive and not everyone can buy it. Do not be discouraged, but you can try to make it yourself. How to make an ATV with your own hands? To help our recommendations.

If you are the owner of an old motorcycle and it is gathering dust in the garage, then do not rush to dispose of it. The Ural model is excellent for converting into an ATV.

The assembly of the all-terrain vehicle will consist of the following stages:

alteration of the frame;
installation of the instrument frame;
engine installation;
suspension installation.

What you need to work:

bridge;
shock absorbers;
welding machine;
Bulgarian;
brake system;
Tie Rod;
metal profile sheet;
motorbike.

Before starting the assembly, it is worth deciding on the type of control of your homemade ATV... It can be motorcycle and steering.

The next step is to upgrade the frame by moving the vertical seatpost tubes 40mm back. Next, we weld the bridge to the Ural pendulum, slightly cut the lower fork and seat posts. Next to the pendulum suspension bushings, we weld struts made of pipes.

We shorten the bridge to make vehicle more compact and more maneuverable. Now we do cardan shaft, which can be built from the Oka semiaxes.

We need square tubes 25 * 25 * 2 mm for the manufacture of the front suspension. You can borrow from a Zhiguli car steering knuckles... Close attention must be paid to the braking system. It is better to purchase it separately to ensure maximum security.

When all the main elements are assembled, then you can start installing headlights, turn signals and brake lights. We trim the ATV with a profile and prepare it for painting.

ATV from the motorcycle "Izh"

If you don't even have such a motorcycle, then you can buy it for a very nominal fee. Which will be much cheaper than buying an expensive vehicle.

The fundamental difference between the assembly of an ATV from "Izh" does not differ much from the assembly of an ATV from "Ural".

ATV from scooter

A great homemade ATV can be made from a scooter. We start the work process with drawing up drawings that you can do yourself and slightly redo the frame. Next, we install the engine. We connect the engine shaft to the gear of the rear axle of the ATV using an ordinary chain drive. We bring the controls to the frame and fix the pedals and control levers.

It is better to use components from the same scooter, but fuel tank better to borrow from a motorcycle. Control can be set to steering or motorcycle, whichever suits you best, the brake lever must be fastened to the transmission brake on the rear axle sprocket.

For the body kit, we use material from old automotive technology or fiberglass.

ATV from the car "Oka"

You can breathe new life into an old car by trying to build an excellent homemade ATV out of it. Your whole family will love it.

We start by studying professional drawings. We modernize the body, remove the doors and the ceiling. We use comfortable seats for comfort. Next, we install the engine and muffler.

We attach the wheels to the frame, using shock absorbers and native suspensions. It is worth considering which clearance you will need and take care of this in advance. The most important is the braking system. You shouldn't try to save money on this element. We will use the brakes from the motorcycle. The steering wheel can be installed motorcycle or left native. It is important to securely fasten the tie rods. The body is sheathed with metal and painted.

Children's homemade ATV

The presence of an all-terrain vehicle in families with children is even more important. There is no better gift for a child than a wonderful car made by dad. We pay special attention to safety in the manufacture of a children's all-terrain vehicle. After all, we are talking about the health and life of children.

What is needed for a children's ATV

We decide on the dimensions and appearance... The possibilities are unlimited, everything will depend only on your skills and efforts.

We draw up a drawing, it is easy to deal with it yourself. The main stage is the manufacture of the frame. For it, you can use a ready-made model or weld it from a square profile (25x25mm). If you make a frame with your own hands, then you need to pay due attention to the quality of the welds. We will buy new wheels, we choose them depending on the age of the child and on the quality of the road surface.

The choice of engine is wide enough. An electric motor from the Volga or a scooter will do. We will install the battery in such a way that it is not necessary to disassemble the entire structure for recharging.

After assembling all the major components, the most enjoyable part of the job begins. You can use a body kit from some old and unusable model of a children's ATV, or you can use your imagination and come up with a new original author's idea.

Children's ATV with your own hands 4x4 will significantly save your budget, bring joy to your child, and joint work will bring the whole family together.

P.S. Homemade ATVs are not easy to do with your own hands. If something didn't work out right away, think about what and where you made a mistake. Thomas Edison made 10,000 unsuccessful attempts! before he invented the light bulb. And you will definitely succeed.

How to make a homemade ATV is a question that is the dream of almost any young designer.

However, this kind of dreams come true not for everyone and not at the age at which we would like. But sometimes dreamers still make what they want into reality.

Skills in drawing up drawings, the ability to perform complex technological processes, money and time are the main requirements when creating a homemade vehicle.

Today we are going to tell you how to build a homemade ATV using Oki parts and show you this process with a photo selection.

You can find out one of the ways and make sure that it is realistic to independently create an ATV from car parts in the example below.

Do-it-yourself all-wheel drive ATV based on the OKA car (amateur designer Sergey Pletnev)

First, let's give General characteristics project:

Length - 2300 mm;
Width - 1250 mm;
Height - (extreme points of the wheels) - 1250 mm;
Base - 1430 mm;
Clearance - 300 mm;
Engine - inherited from the OKA car;
Wheels - disks: "VAZ" 2121 (Niva);
Tires - CoordiantOffRoadR15;
Shock absorbers - "OKA";
Hubs - "VAZ" 2109;
Cross-axle gearboxes - "VAZ" classic
Maximum speed - 60 km / h
The gearbox taken from the "OKI" was modified by replacing the standard main pair gears on the chain drive.

This was done to increase speed on a flat road. And it looks like this:

Assembled

Exploded view

Water pipes (VGP 25x3.2) act as supporting parts of the frame. They were purchased in the form of two segments of 7900 mm each and weighing 38 kg for the amount of 1150 rubles.

For levers and suspensions, water pipes were also required (VGP 20x2.8) - two lengths of 6100 mm each, weighing 20 kg cost 650 rubles.

Two used rear axles from "kopeck" (VAZ 2101) - in the amount of 3000 rubles.

From the "eight" (VAZ 2108), fists were taken complete with discs, calipers and other + drive shafts - in total, 4000 rubles were spent for all these BU parts.

Useful metal sheets, nuts, bolts, washers, silent blocks, etc. - consumable fasteners and materials for such cases should always be enough.

From the above parts, with the help of welding, a pipe bender and locksmith tools, such a structure was created.

Most of them are welded together. structural details... A carburetor was installed.

Homemade 4WD ATV carburetor

Metal strips for suspension, engine and axles are also welded

The hubs are connected to the suspension with new fittings, washers and bolts

After the frame was assembled, miscalculations of the nuances of the position of the engine, the functionality of the gearbox and its fastening, as well as the front suspension with the steering wheel began.

As a result, the following moves were applied:

From the rear post, the axle shafts are brought to the hubs. Mount for shock absorbers welded

The gearbox uses a homemade extended stem

The picture shows how the box mount was brought in and the position of the stem outside

The steering knuckle is taken from the "VAZ" 2109 and the steering bipod is made of a metal plate independently

After a short test drive, it was noticed that a rocker would be needed to the gearbox rod to shift gears by hand - this is the most convenient option in the case of a modified gearbox.

I must say that it was modified to increase the gear ratio from the axle to the wheels, since without this intervention, the speed at maximum revs would not have been gaining more than 45 km / h.

Further assembly

Side steps are welded to the frame, a front axle is installed, to front axle the cardan from the gearbox is connected, the front shock absorbers are installed. Front axle shafts are connected to hubs and axle

The brake system is installed separately for the rear wheels

Installed steering and braking system for the front wheels

Off-road tires purchased (in this case, the most suitable option)

The stage of creating the matrix of the ATV has come. Polyurethane foam, cardboard, resin, fiberglass, fittings and more came in handy.

The technology of using materials to create a matrix is a very complex process that requires deep and detailed study.

The frame of the wings, as well as the front and rear parts of the cladding, is set with light reinforcement and cardboard. The foam was poured with a margin in places where it was supposed to make convex shapes.

The dried foam has been processed with a file, a jackhammer, a knife and other tools

An oil cooler from the helicopter was installed and the first layer of fiberglass was applied

The front suspension is fully assembled. Native ball "VAZ" 2109 from below. Top steering tip from "UAZ"

Treated surface. Side view

The hubs were fitted to the NIVA wheels with special adapters

Hub side view

The matrix is almost ready. Additional frame parts have been prepared for use as a trunk and a bumper at the same time.

The seat is homemade. The steering wheel is borrowed from the Minsk motorcycle. The controls were brought up to it.

Painting ATV

Painted suspension elements

Assembly

The final part of the work is assembly.

Used homemade mufflers... Used as a gas tank plastic canister... Electronics mounted.

From a different angle.

End of work

Completed work.

The panel is borrowed from the OKA car.

Power unit homemade ATV became the engine from the car "Oka" - 32-strong, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid cooling. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.

And this is just the dream of every man !!! I want this !!!

Homemade ATV frame- spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipes with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, crossbars, etc.) are made of VGT-20. The side members are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical plane. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "cold". I welded the lugs (pairs of lugs) for fastening the levers and shock absorbers to the frame at once, and various brackets - as the assemblies and assemblies were mounted (in place).

Homemade ATV ATV:

1 - front wheel(from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

2 - engine (from the car "Oka");

3 - front wheel drive transmission;

4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");

5 - rear wheel drive transmission;

7 - rear wheel (from the Chevrolet-Niva car, 2 pcs.);

8 - fuel tank (20 liter canister);

9 - rear trunk;

10 - muffler;

11 - backrest of the passenger (headrest from the car "Oka");

12 - saddle;

13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);

14 - gear fixing lever;

15 - body kit (fiberglass);

16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);

17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");

18 - front trunk

Homemade ATV transmission- kind. Although the car is all-wheel drive, but transfer case it is not. As you know, in "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheel (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just myself power unit, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal joint shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.

The transmission is assembled from units of various domestic cars, mostly "VAZ" models. But the finished industrial units also had to be refined. For example, from the gearbox (from "Oka") to ensure the optimal (reduced) speed and increase the torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod was also made different - lengthened, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The rod can be fixed in three positions: to engage 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.

Interwheel reduction gears - from rear axles VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts together with the "stockings" were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints are used as hinges in the rest of the transmission intermediate shafts.

Kinematic diagram of the transmission of a homemade ATV from Oki

1 - motor (from the car "Oka");

2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");

3 - gearbox;

4 - CV joint (from the VAZ-2108 car, 12 pcs);

5 - main gear reducer with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);

6 - shaft (from the VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);

7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")

There are no undershifts and differential locks.

Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type(with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. At first I used the steering wheel from a motorcycle "Minsk", with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and delivered it from a Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a tube with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. It has a travel stop at its lower end. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it turns in a split nylon bracket-sleeve.

The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick and shaped like the letter "T". At the edge of the "rack" a hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made - the steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for the ball ends of the steering rods. These holes are reinforced with matching welded washers. The bipod ears are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.

Wheels - 15-inch, from the car "Chevrolet-Niva". Tires with the corresponding rim dimensions 205/70 (width / height as a percentage of the width) with an off-road tread pattern. The wheel roll-in diameter is about 660 mm.

Homemade ATV frame drawing:

1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

3 - stand (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3,2,2 pcs.);

5 - rear strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);

7 - front strut (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);

8 - the upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);

9 - front shock absorber upper support (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);

10 - front engine mounting support (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

11 - rear engine mounting support (sheet s3,2 pcs.);

12 - lugs for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);

13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);

14 - upper transverse link (pipe d20x2.8);

15 - lower transverse link (pipe d20x2,8,2 pcs.);

16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);

17 - front console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

18 - rear console of footrests (pipe d20x2);

19 - connection of the front and rear footrest consoles (pipe d20x2);

20 - cross member of the footboard (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);

21 - an eyelet for attaching a fiberglass body kit (s5 sheet, set)

Wheel suspensions - independent, on two triangular wishbones each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). Levers are welded from round pipes of the VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both those and others had to be finalized. In the hubs I installed studs under the wheels from the "Niva", and in the front fists - homemade swivel levers.

The muffler is homemade, two-piece. To protect against thermal warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

Wheel suspension arms

(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):

1 - beam (2 pcs.);

2 - cross member;

3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);

4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);

5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the car "Zhiguli")

First, I made the required contours of the body kit from a steel square pipe with a cross section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe bends easily even with your hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be easy to cut the "tack". Then he bent the "wings" from hardboard (fiberboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and lintels. Where the bend turned out to be steep, I fastened separate strips of the same hardboard. The front end was taken out with polystyrene purchased from a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene or the same polyurethane foam, but the expanded polystyrene turned out to be more suitable material- well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a general structure on polyurethane foam.

Steering column assembly:

1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);

2 - rudder connection plate (steel, sheet s6);

3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

4 - split bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (nylon, sheet s18);

5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);

6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);

7 - rudder travel stop (steel, sheet s6);

8 - bearing housing;

9 - a persistent tip (steel, circle 15);

10 - thrust bearing

The false tank is of a complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, he began to fill in layers polyurethane foam designated place for him. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise a thick foam volume may not dry out inside. I filled it until the layers went beyond the outline. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed out with coarse sandpaper.

Under the dashboard part went into action dashboard Oki. I also fixed it on the disc with the help of polyurethane foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to respond to the conceived design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to ideal condition, then plastering and painting the boob could be neglected.

An ATV from a store is not a pleasure available to everyone. Therefore, many craftsmen make quadrics with their own hands. And in this article we will tell you about the most interesting ones.

In the business of making an ATV, everything that can be found in the garage and nearby can be useful. Each self-made vehicle is unique and individual, so it is difficult to talk about drawings and diagrams.

Few people describe in detail the process of building their offspring, which makes it extremely difficult to find specific information. But there are also exceptions.

How to make an ATV with your own hands

in 2012, the talented designer S. Pletnev shared the drawings and nuances of the construction of his brainchild.

What was used in the design of the vehicle:

Front and rear wheels from Chevrolet Niva 15 inches
Engine a-m Oka
Oka gearbox
Interwheel reduction gears from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics"
CV JOINT from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pieces
Fuel tank 20L cans
Support for the passenger from the Oka headrest
Clutches from the Oka
Ural motorcycle steering wheel
Instrument panel from the car Oka

The main technical characteristics of the ATV:

ATV drawings:

The transmission is made of AvtoVAZ units with some modifications. For example, a chain drive was used instead of the main pair to reduce speed and increase torque.

Interwheel gearboxes are borrowed from the classics, the axle shafts are removed and replaced with CV joints from front wheel drive vase. Equal velocity joints are also used in other transmission units.

Independent suspension on triangular cross levers. Shock absorbers from the Oka.

Self-made muffler of 2 sections, insulated with asbestos.

The body kit is made of fiberglass. It took 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer and the same amount of hardener to create such a plastic. 15 meters of fiberglass and 5 meters of glass mat.

ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for performing the relevant work. But as it turned out, this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.

Bumpers and kenguryatniki are welded from 20mm round tubes.

Photo of the finished ATV: