- 1. Bracket for fixing the heater covers;
- 2. Heater control damper;
- 3. Left heater casing;
- 4. Draft of the foot heating flap;
- 5. Radiator sealing gasket;
- 6. Radiator;
- 7. Heater gasket;
- 8. Electric motor;
- 9. Fan shrouds;
- 10. Fan impeller;
- 11. Heating damper;
- 12. Air duct for heated windshield;
- 13. Side nozzle air duct;
- 14. Side nozzle;
- 15. Central nozzle flap;
- 16. Paddle pusher;
- 17. The axis of the scapula;
- 18. Shoulder:
- 19. Central nozzle overlap lever;
- 20. Draft of the damper for heating the windshield;
- 21. Lever for changing the direction of the air flow;
- 22. Air heating control handle;
- 23. Windshield air supply handle;
- 24. Handle for air supply to the legs;
- 25. Control levers bracket;
- 26. Shell fastening bracket? Yagi;
- 27. Crane control rod;
- 28. Heater control valve rod;
- 29. Leg heating flap;
- 30. Air heating control levers;
- 31. Clamping screw clamp;
- 32. Heater tap valve;
- 33. Crane body;
- 34. Valve lever;
- 35. Hoses connecting the tap to the heater radiator;
- 36. Internal ventilation duct;
- 37. Rear passenger leg heating windows;
- 38. Heater tap;
- 39. Driver's foot heating window;
- 40. B-pillar trim;
- 41. The inner cavity of the central pillar;
- 42. Exhaust ventilation duct;
- 43. B-pillar upholstery;
- 44. Exhaust ventilation deflector lining;
- 45. Rubber valve;
- 46. Deflector body;
- 47. Exhaust ventilation deflector;
- 48. I. Heater;
- 49. II. Heater operation diagram;
- 50. III. Heater tap;
- 51. IV. Exhaust ventilation of the passenger compartment of VAZ-2108 and VAZ-2109 vehicles.
The heating of the passenger compartment is provided by air heated in the heater radiator 6, which is connected to the engine cooling system in parallel with the main radiator. The heater is mounted in the passenger compartment under the dashboard with four nuts to the bolts welded to the air intake box. The air heated in the heater is directed into the passenger compartment through a system of air ducts attached to the bottom of the instrument panel and through the air duct 36 of the internal ventilation. The air ducts are sealed with gaskets with the heater. The heater consists of the right and left 3 plastic heater covers, which are connected along the perimeter with brackets 1 of the fastening. To seal the casings, a special bundle is laid in the grooves. For forced air supply to the passenger compartment, an electric fan is fastened on top of the heater with two screws. The design of the heater allows you to remove the electric fan from the side of the engine compartment. The electric fan consists of two plastic covers 9, to which an electric motor 8 of type 45.3730 is attached. An impeller 10 of an electric fan is installed on the shaft of the electric motor. To obtain the required speed of the impeller, there is an additional resistor, which is fastened with a screw on the left side into the hole in the casing 3 of the heater. Two coils of the resistor provide three speeds of rotation of the impeller. Radiator 6 for heating the air is installed in the heater casings, fastened with three screws to the right casing and sealed with a polyurethane foam gasket 7. The heater radiator consists of two rows of tubes, cooling plates and two plastic tanks. The heater tap is connected to the cooling system with rubber hoses. The circulation of the liquid through the radiator is carried out by the cooling system pump. The valve consists of a body 33 with two pairs of nozzles. In the valve body, on the supply line, on the axis, a valve plate valve 32 with an opening for the passage of coolant is installed. The lever 34 of the valve rod 27 is connected to the lever of the handle 22 for controlling the heating of the air. When the lever 34 is turned, the hole in the valve 32 opens the line for the flow of fluid into the heater radiator. The heater is controlled by three levers 22, 23, 24, the levers of which are installed on the axles of a plastic bracket 25, which is fastened with four screws to the instrument panel. The handle 22 for controlling the heating of the air acts through the rod 27 and 28 on the lever 34 of the crane and the lever for driving the damper 2 for controlling the heater. When the handle 22 is fully moved to the right, the valve 38 and the flap 2 are opened, the air will be supplied by the electric fan through the radiator 6 of the heater, in which the heated coolant of the cooling system is driven. In the middle position of the handle 22, the tap and the flap 2 will be in intermediate positions, the air will pass both through the radiator and bypassing it. This more reliably provides the required degree of air heating. When the handle 22 is in the extreme left position, the valve 38 and the heater control flap 2 are closed, while the air supplied to the passenger compartment will not be heated. The upper left handle 24 for supplying air to the legs of the driver and passengers is connected to the throttle lever 29 by a rod 4 front seat, as well as through the air duct 36 of the internal ventilation at the feet of passengers on back seat... The handle 23 for supplying air to the windshield is connected by a rod 20 to the drive lever of the damper 11 for heating the windshield, which blocks or opens the way for air through the air duct 12 to the glass (see the diagram of the heater). To supply air to the passenger compartment directly to the passengers and also to blow off the side windows of the vehicle, the heater has left and right side nozzles 14 and two central nozzles. A flap 15 with polyurethane foam seals is installed in the body of each nozzle. Opening or closing the flap for the lever 19, change the intensity of ventilation. The direction of the air flow is changed by the lever 21, which allows you to rotate the nozzle with guides, as well as the blades, to the desired position. The heater provides an average temperature in the passenger compartment at an outside air temperature of minus 20 C at the maximum heating mode of plus 20 C, and in the leg zone plus 25 C. The cars have exhaust ventilation, which ensures the suction of air from the passenger compartment. On VAZ-2108 cars, air is sucked into the gaps under the roof lining (mainly from the rear of the passenger compartment) and enters the inner cavities 41 of the central pillars, then through the rubber air ducts 42 and holes in the trailing edges of the cladding 40 it goes out. The suction is carried out due to the vacuum generated when the vehicle is moving at the rear edges of the B-pillar liners. On VAZ-2109 cars, exhaust ventilation is performed behind the body openings for side glass windows. Ventilation is also carried out due to the vacuum generated by the deflectors 47 when the vehicle is moving. The air is sucked from the rear of the passenger compartment under the lining 44 of the deflectors, squeezes the rubber valves 45 and goes out through the openings of the deflectors. Rubber valves 45 prevent outside air from entering the passenger compartment in a crosswind.
Almost all car enthusiasts - owners of cars of the ninth family, equipped with the so-called "high panel", have experienced all the "charm" of trips in winter. The blame for everything is the interior heater of the VAZ-2109. This is not to say that it does not warm at all. As a rule, hot air enters either the legs or windshield, and it almost never happens that the air is evenly distributed.
In addition, the modernization carried out on the heaters of the fourteenth model did not decide
problems, rather the opposite. After this "improvement", to all the existing problems was added a rather strong flow of cold air from the side deflectors, which quite noticeably "chills" the driver's left shoulder and the right shoulder of the passenger sitting in the front seat.
We are starting work on the modernization of the interior heater of the VAZ-2109.
First of all, we drain the coolant, for this we turn off the plastic tap - a lamb, located at the bottom of the radiator, in the area of the generator. The main part of the antifreeze will merge, but still some of it will remain in the heater radiator. It will be convenient to remove it using a simple set consisting of a funnel and a piece of hose. If you are going to reuse antifreeze, you need to drain it into a clean dish.
When removing the cover of the air ducts, the obvious misalignment of the holes located in the panel with the heater nozzles immediately catches the eye. In most cases, the stove moves forward. In especially difficult situations, when the skew value is more than 50%, the VAZ 2109 interior heater will have to be cut.
The dashboard will have to be removed... For convenience, it is better to sign the detachable connectors for lights and switches with a felt-tip pen, or use paper tape for notes - this will greatly save time during reassembly. You will also have to remove wheel with overlays, as well as a turn indicator switch and a wiper control lever located under the steering wheel.
Next, remove the interior heater VAZ-2109... The stove body is fixed to the body with four nuts; a 10 socket wrench is useful for unscrewing them. Do not forget that the “far right” nut serves as a contact point for the “mass” of the fan with the body; there is also a positive wire connector nearby. The connector of the fan speed control resistor is also inserted into the heater body. All connectors must be disconnected. The chips through which the lighting lamps and speed switches are powered are also subject to disconnection.
We remove the hoses from the radiator, remove the cable latch at the stove faucet. After performing this operation, the heater is no longer connected to the body, and if something holds it, it means that you forgot to perform one of the described actions. It remains to unscrew the two screws of the fan. Pay attention to the safety of the thrust bearing and rubber washers.
Removing the radiator
The radiator is fixed to the heater body with three self-tapping screws. When pulling out the radiator, be careful - most likely, there is still antifreeze in it.
One of the ways to increase the temperature in the passenger compartment is to use turbulators (swirlers) of the coolant. Behind the terrible name are simple plastic spirals that increase the specific heat transfer of the radiator. I should note that turbulators are effective only if the engine is running on low revs... According to VAZ workers involved in the assembly of radiators, turbulators are installed on most radiators. If you find that this "miracle device" is not on your radiator, then it is easy to make it yourself. To do this, you need to cut plates, copper or aluminum, (from what is at hand) about 6 mm wide, and no more than 1.5 mm thick, clamp one side of the plate in the drill chuck, fix the other with yews, and tighten.
We disassemble the interior heater of the VAZ-2109.
Before disassembling the heater, it is necessary to visually determine the integrity and position of the bottom wall. The halves of the ribbed wall tend to deform under the influence of high temperatures, and, as a result, move in relation to each other. In the presence of this defect, the tightness of the heater body is broken, and cold air, bypassing the closed damper, is freely sucked into the air ducts. From here comes the difference in the temperature of the air leaving the right and left leg heating deflectors. You can determine the integrity of the wall by looking into the hole for installing the radiator.
To separate the case into two halves, you need to open the latches with a screwdriver and unscrew the self-tapping screw located under the central nozzle. After the self-tapping screw is turned out, remove the flap control levers.
Next, we proceed to inspect the condition of the inner surface. In my case, the restoration work consisted of gluing exfoliated foam rubber and adding several strips of bitoplast. Bitoplast was positioned in such a way as to seal the body as much as possible in the extreme position of the damper.
The design of the central flap is such that, if it is adjusted correctly, it reliably closes the air flow coming from the central deflectors and does not need additional damping.
Heater assembly.
When preparing for assembly, the places where the dampers will be mounted must be lubricated with lithol. When connecting the body, it is better to put its "halves" on a sealant, acrylic or silicone. We put the latches in place, wrap the self-tapping screw and put the flap control lever unit in its place.
Upon detection severe deformation the bottom ribbed wall, the gap that arose when the halves were joined, fill with a sealant. Ideally, there should be no gaps between the radiator and the heater housing. The manufacturer is trying to solve this problem by sticking a foam rubber strip, but this measure does not produce any particular effect. If you want to ensure a truly tight connection, you cannot do without Bitoplast. It must be glued at the junction of the case with the radiator.
Increased noise during the operation of the heater fan is not uncommon. The most common culprit in noise is an unbalanced impeller. The impeller can be balanced by yourself by winding wire around the blades. The process is quite painstaking, since the "balance" is found exclusively by experience. The easiest thing is
do as follows: sticking pieces of plasticine on the impeller, turn on the stove motor and find a position at which vibration will be minimal. After balancing, install the fan in place and energize it. The wires must pass through the rubber plug installed in the heater housing.
The stocking of the fan casing, designed to protect the heater from leaves, becomes clogged very quickly and prevents the flow of air, so whether it is useful or harmful, everyone decides for himself ...
We adjust the cables.
Factory travel adjustment of the damper leaves a lot to be desired. With the correct adjustment, the levers must be securely fixed in the extreme positions, this is especially important for the central and main dampers. The damper, which blocks the air flow directed to the windshield, does not perform such an important task, therefore, it does not require particularly fine adjustment. All adjustments are made by adjusting the position of the casing.
Adjusting the heater tap is no less exciting. It is so constructively provided that the valve of the crane has a stroke greater than the stroke of the lever that controls it. In this state of affairs, it is easy to guess that the tap will either not be fully open, or not fully closed. Both are undesirable, but, as they say, "the heat of the bones does not ache," so we choose a position in which the tap is not fully closed.
Before putting on the hoses, it is also advisable to lubricate the radiator tubes with a sealant. It is better to use new clamps. After final assembly and warming up the engine to
operating temperature, the clamps must be tightened again.
Let's get started with the installation. Before installing the torpedo in place, I recommend sticking pieces of foam and bitoplast onto the inlet holes of the nozzles and making holes in them with sufficient overlap.
The heater is installed in place and profitable. The instrument panel is installed in place.
panel (during installation, you need to make an effort to move it forward as much as possible). After the front edge of the panel is in place, we take out the bundles of wires into the corresponding holes in the panel, and wrap the lower screws. Then we bait the self-tapping screws of the "side ears". Next, in the body beam, we drill two holes with a 3 mm drill, right through the plastic. We wrap 50 mm self-tapping screws into these holes. Drilled coins can be used as washers. After that, the rest of the screws are already screwed in. When performing fastening according to this technique, dashboard will be pressed against the body as much as possible. We move the heater to the maximum alignment of the holes.
We already talked about the problem of misalignment at the beginning of this article. If, after fitting, it turned out that the misalignment exceeds the permissible values, it is necessary to saw through the grooves of the heater fastening in such a way that it would be possible to move the stove "towards you". After completing these modernization works, the heater is subject to additional sealing (I removed the fan casing, and additionally laid a sealant, then tightened the nuts).
To seal the lining of the air ducts, it will be enough to stick a strip of bitoplast over the foam rubber. To avoid excessive heating of the radio, it is necessary to seal the gap with foam, which is located in the cover of the air ducts, directly under the installation site of the radio.
The modernization work has been completed, everything is in place, you can fill in antifreeze. When pouring antifreeze, the heater tap must be open, otherwise the occurrence of air jams cannot be avoided.
The above technique called "modernization of the VAZ-2109 interior heater" can also be used to modernize the heaters installed in the "low" panels. When performing any work aimed at improving the operation or modernizing the heater, you need to remember that the stove is part of the car's cooling system, and any illiterate actions can have fatal consequences.
The effect obtained as a result of the work done, you will feel immediately. In any case, you can be sure that the times when you were frozen in the car are in the past!
Air can enter the passenger compartment through the upper slots on the instrument panel, side and central air nozzles, openings in the heater casing (towards the legs), as well as through the lowered door windows. An electric fan is used to increase the air supply. The heater 2108-01 is distinguished by an almost horizontal arrangement of the radiator and a different distribution of air flows: in the intermediate positions of the damper, hot air enters from below, thanks to which cooler air is supplied to the windows, and warmer air to the legs. Part "Samar" has been equipped with a 2108-01 heater since August 1998; in the near future it will be installed on all cars of the family. Fan motor - collector, direct current, with excitement from permanent magnets... The fan speed is controlled by a four-position switch on the instrument panel. Depending on the selected speed, the electric motor is connected to on-board network vehicle directly or through an additional resistor. The latter has two spirals with a resistance of 0.23 ohms and 0.82 ohms. If both spirals are included in the circuit, the fan rotates at low speed, if only one (0.23 Ohm) is at medium speed, connected directly, the fan rotates with maximum speed... The rotational speed of the electric motor shaft with the impeller at a voltage of 12 V and an air temperature of (25 ± 10) ° С is 4100 ± 200 min-1. The consumed current at the maximum speed is no more than 14 A. It is not recommended to press the fan wheel off the motor shaft - you can disturb its balance. The electric motor cannot be repaired (except for cleaning the collector); if it fails, it must be replaced as an assembly with a fan wheel. To heat the air, a heater is used that uses the heat of the engine coolant. The heater radiator is installed in the console of the instrument panel and consists of two plastic tanks and two rows of aluminum tubes with pressed-on plates (there is a partition in the right tank). Fluid flow through the radiator (thermostat independent) is generated by the engine coolant pump and regulated by a valve attached to the bulkhead. The crane is driven by a cable, from the handle on the dashboard. The heater is controlled by two air distribution knobs and a heater tap control knob.
