Work on replacing the timing chain with a 1.4 TSI engine(CAVA - 150 HP) for Volkswagen car Tiguan

We remove the protection.

Remove the plastic protective cover from the valve cover, secured with four bolts.

Remove the protective cover.

Remove the plastic inlet pipe.

We unscrew the bolts of the camshaft plugs, for further convenience of installing the shaft retainer.

We remove the coolant tank and take it to the side, also remove the absorber.

We hang the engine on the traverse.

Remove the engine mount.

Unscrew the fender liner.

We fix the tension roller with a hairpin and remove the belt.

Remove the pump pulley.

We remove the shiv kiv of the water pump.

Remove the bypass roller.

We turn off the generator and compressor of the air conditioner.

Remove the side engine cover.

We set the TDC and insert the shaft lock.

We unscrew part of the intake pipe after the catalyst and remove the pallet.

Remove the tensioner and chain guides.

We remove the chain.

We screw in the crankshaft stopper, which will allow further tightening the crankshaft pulley.

Installing a new chain.

We clean the surface of the cover, degrease it, install new rubber seals and the engine gasket.

Install the cover and tighten all the bolts with a torque wrench.

Install the rollers and tighten the crankshaft pulley.

We install the pallet on the sealant, fasten it and tighten the screws crosswise, fasten the intake pipe.

Installing the engine mount.

We remove the traverse, fasten it expansion tank, remove the shaft retainer and fasten the shaft plugs.

Installing the crankcase protection.

Spare parts suitable for this work

Caution: Before installing the poly V-belt, check that all the units it drives (alternator, air conditioner compressor) are securely fastened. When installing the poly V-belt, pay attention to the direction of travel and correct seating on the pulleys and tensioning elements.

First put the poly V-belt on the pulley crankshaft... The belt is put on the tensioner pulley last. Further installation is carried out in reverse order. Fill with coolant. After the end of the work. Start the engine and check the drive belt for running.

Belt drive with air conditioning compressor

• 1 - Belt pulley - coolant pump
• 2 - a belt pulley - a crankshaft
• 3 - the Tension roller
• 4 - the Tension roller
• 5 - a belt pulley - generator
• 6 - Belt pulley - air conditioner compressor
• 7 - the V-ribbed belt

Compressor belt drive

Note: The belt pulley of the compressor magnetic clutch -N421- is located behind the belt pulley - the coolant pump. The V-ribbed belt -4- runs over the belt pulley of the magnetic compressor clutch -N421-.

• 1 - Belt pulley - compressor
• 2 - the Tension roller
• 3 - Belt pulley for coolant pump with belt pulley for electromagnetic clutch of compressor -N421-
• 4 - Poly-V belt

Removing and installing engine speed sender -G28-

The installation location for the engine speed sender -G28- is on the flywheel side of the crankshaft sealing flange. Remove compressor. Detach connector -1- for engine speed sender -G28-.

Remove cylinder block seal -2- and remove engine speed sender -G28- with socket wrench -T10370-.

Installation

Install engine speed sender -G28- and tighten its screw to 5 Nm. Further installation is carried out in reverse order.

Cylinder head

Note: When installing an exchange cylinder head, before installing the camshaft housing, lubricate all contact surfaces between the bearing elements, roller arms and the camshaft bed with engine oil. Remove the plastic linings that protect the open valves only immediately before installing the MCC. When replacing the cylinder head, you must also drain the old and fill with new coolant. Lubricate all supporting and working surfaces before assembly work.

• 1 - 20 Nm
• 2 - fuel injection pump for the fuel supply system, with a fuel pressure regulating valve -N276-
• 3 - Laying of wires, fasten to the camshaft housing with a torque of 8 Nm
• 4 - To the air filter
• 5 - 10 Nm
• 6 - Hall sender -G40- with lip seal, if damaged, replace O-ring
• 7 - Studs, 6 Nm
• 8 - 10 Nm and tighten 90 °, replace, tighten from center to edges
• 9 - Camshaft housing. Make sure that the oil circuit sieve is installed in the cylinder head. Remove the remnants of the old sealant, carefully clean the seating surfaces; they must be free of oil and grease, cover with sealant -D 188 003 A1- before installation, install vertically on top of studs and pins
• 10 - 20 Nm
• 11 - Eyelet for hanging
• 12 - Turbocharger
• 13 - Oil pressure switch -F1-, 25 Nm, if not tight, cut O-ring and replace
• 14 - Cylinder head gasket, replace, metal. Change coolant after replacement
• 15 - the head of the block of cylinders. Make sure that the oil circuit sieve is installed in the cylinder head. The sealing surfaces to the camshaft housing must be free of oil and grease, change the coolant after replacement
• 16 - Guide pins, 20 Nm
• 17 - the Locating pin
• 18 - Supporting element, do not interchange, with hydraulic compensation valve clearance, lubricate the work surface
• 19 - Roller valve lever (rocker), weld the roller bearing for seizing, lubricate the working surface, fix it on the support with a retaining clip when installing
• 20 - O-ring. When removing and installing the camshaft bearing housing, take into account the various seals, replace, 4 pieces, insert into the cylinder head
• 21 - Cylinder head bolt, replace. Observe assembly instructions and sequence for loosening and tightening
• 22 - Roller pusher, lightly lubricate the working surfaces with engine oil
• 23 - O-ring, replace, moisten with engine oil before replacing

Checking the cylinder head for warpage

Maximum permissible curvature of the contact plane: 0.05 mm.

Removing a chain of a drive of camshafts and a drive chain of an oil pump

Lift the engine cover at points -1- and remove the cover by moving it forward in the direction of the arrow-. Take off air filter... Drain off coolant. Detach coolant hoses and hose guides -arrows-.

Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the camshaft plugs. Remove the spark plug of the first cylinder. Use the puller -T10094 A- and candle wrench-3122 V-. Screw the dial gauge adapter -T10170- into the spark plug socket as far as the stop. Insert dial gauge -VAS 6079- with extension -T10170 / 1- as far as stop and press down with nut -arrow-,

Rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to TDC of cylinder 1. Note the position of the small dial gauge hand. The holes -arrows- on the distribution booms must be positioned as shown. If necessary, turn the crankshaft one more revolution (360 °).

Instruction: If the crankshaft was rotated further than TDC by 0.01 mm, then it should be turned again against the direction of engine rotation by about 45 °. Finally, bring the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation to the TDC of cylinder 1. Permissible deviation from TDC of the first cylinder : ± 0.01 mm.

Insert the camshaft locking tool -T10171 A- into the hole camshaft all the way. The locking pins -arrows 1- must engage in the holes -arrows 2-. The "TOP" mark - from the heating pad 3 - must be visible from above.

To secure the camshaft lock -T10171 A- screw in the M6 ​​screw and the corresponding hole -arrows- by hand; do not tighten.

Note: Please note that there are different attachment points for the camshaft locking tool -T10171A-.

Remove the timing case. Remove cover -1- from oil pump sprocket.

Press tensioning strip by hand in -direction of arrow- and fix tensioner piston with pins -T40Q11-.

Mark the direction of the timing target with a felt-tip pen -3-.

Instruction: Phase shifter mounting bolt -2- has a left-hand thread.

Unscrew bolts -2- and -4- and remove camshaft adjuster -1- with timing chain -3-. When doing this, use support -T10172- for securing.

Support oil pump sprocket with support -T10172- and unscrew securing bolt -1-.

Press tensioning spring -1- against bolt -2- with a screwdriver and remove spring -1-. Unscrew securing bolt -3- and remove chain tensioner. Mark the direction of travel of the oil pump drive chain -2- with a felt-tip pen.

Unscrew the sprocket attachment bolt -1-and remove sprockets -1- and -3- together with the oil pump timing chain -2-.

Installation

The crankshaft must be at TDC of the first cylinder. Insert chain sprocket -1- in -direction of arrow- as far as stop on crankshaft journal.

Caution: The cast lug -2- of the sprocket must fit into the groove -3- on the crankshaft journal.

Mark the position of the sprocket and crankshaft in relation to the cylinder block with a felt-tip pen.

Place the oil pump timing chain -3- on sprocket -1 - and at the same time install sprocket -2- on the oil pump drive shaft.

Note: Observe the mark for the direction of travel on the timing chain of the oil pump. The oil pump gear is only matched to the position on the oil pump drive shaft -arrow-.

Support drive gear of oil pump with support -T10172-. Tighten new securing bolt -1- to 20 Nm and turn 90 ° further. Install the tensioner on the oil pump drive chain and tighten the fastening bolt -3 to 15 Nm. Press off tensioning spring -1- with a screwdriver using bolt -2-.

Instructions: Observe the marks -arrows-. Do not turn the crankshaft.

Fasten sprocket -3- by hand with a new bolt. Place timing chain -1- on crankshaft sprocket -4-, exhaust camshaft sprocket -3- and tighten camshaft adjuster -2- manually with a new securing bolt.

Note: Observe the direction of travel mark on the camshaft timing chain. Check the installation of the centering sleeve between the inlet camshaft and the variable valve timing. Phase shifter mounting bolt -2- has a left-hand thread.

The camshaft drive chain must be in contact with the chain guide -1- and rest on the camshaft sprocket -arrow-.

Install target tensioner -1- and tighten screws -2- to 9 Nm. Tension the timing chain by pulling the locking pin -T40011- out of the chain tensioner. Check the location of the marks on the crankshaft gear and the cylinder block, they must be opposite each other.

Tighten bolt -2- to 40 Nm and bolt -4- to 50 Nm (use stop -T10172-).

Instruction: Tighten bolts -2- and -4- 90 ° only after checking the valve timing. Phase shifter mounting bolt -2- has a left-hand thread.

Unscrew bolt -arrow- and remove retainer -T10171 A- from camshaft housing. Check valve timing. If the valve timing is OK. Hold camshaft sprockets with support -T10172- and tighten bolts -2- (left-hand thread) and -4- with a hard wrench 90 °.

Instruction: Phase shifter mounting bolt -2- has a left-hand thread. When tightening the bolts, the sprockets must not rotate on the camshafts.

Install oil pump gear cover -1-. Install the timing case. Install the crankshaft pulley. Install the poly V-belt. Press down on the engine cover at points -1- in the -arrow- downward direction until it engages. Further installation is carried out in reverse order.

Today we will talk about replacing the timing chain with Volkswagen Tiguan, the car is equipped with a 1.4 TSI engine, gasoline. A fairly common motor. The car is in its fifth year, but the mileage is already very decent, 139 thousand kilometers. Timing chain on Volkswagen Tiguan will change for the second time.

The client of the auto center "Pobeda" for timing chain replacement has gained original spare parts... We simply do not recommend buying others. After replacing the timing chain, it is advisable to change and engine oil... We will carry out this procedure immediately after timing chain replacement, after a couple of thousand kilometers - scheduled maintenance.

Volkswagen Tiguan When To Change The Timing Chain

First, we will answer a simple question, when is it necessary timing chain replacement? According to the regulations, on a 1.4 TSI engine, the chain changes once every 80 thousand kilometers. Based on our experience, we can say with confidence that the timing chain stretches with a run of only 50 thousand kilometers. The question is, how much is the chain stretched? You can check its condition using computer diagnostics... If the stretching angle is more than 6 degrees, immediate relief is required. amena timing chain... A break will lead to the most sad consequences. Bent valves, overhaul engine. An experienced mechanic of the Pobeda auto center will take about 8 hours to replace the timing chain.

Volkswagen Tiguan What you need to replace the timing chain

Often many car enthusiasts wonder why the list of spare parts when replacing the timing chain is not limited only to a chain, but consists of 10-15 items? We will answer this question as well. First, when replacing the timing chain, you need to "open" the motor. All pads are disposable, you simply cannot put them on the second time. Therefore, we need a timing chain cover gasket and a phase adjustment sensor gasket. The crankshaft oil seal is also subject to replacement. A set of screws, you definitely need cover fixing screws Timing and the crankshaft pulley mounting bolt. As for the timing chain itself, of course, you need a new chain, a chain tensioner, a tensioner shoe, it is advisable to replace the chain damper strips, two pieces. As you can see, the business is not limited to buying only one chain.

Volkswagen Tiguan How To Change The Timing Chain

1.4 TSI Volkswagen-Audi engine

Characteristics of CAXA motors

Reliability, problems and repair of the 1.4 TSI engine Volkswagen-Audi EA111

The EA111 series of low-volume turbo engines (1.2 TSI, 1.4 TSI) became widespread in 2005, thanks to the popular Golf 5 and Jetta sedan. The main and initially the only engine was the 1.4 TSI in its various modifications, which was intended to replace the naturally aspirated 2.0 liter fours and 1.6 FSI.
At the heart of power unit lies a cast-iron cylinder block, covered with an aluminum 16-valve head with two camshafts, with hydraulic lifters, with a phase shifter on the intake shaft and with direct injection. The timing chain uses a chain with a service life calculated for the entire period of operation of the motor, but in reality, replacing the timing chain is required after 50-100 thousand km. Let's move on to the most important thing, and most importantly in TSI engines this, of course, is pressurization. Weak versions are equipped with a conventional TD025 turbocharger, more powerful 1.4 TSI Twinchargers and work according to the Eaton TVS compressor + KKK K03 turbocharging, which practically eliminates the effect of turbo lag and provides significantly more power.

Despite all the manufacturability and advancement of the EA111 series (the 1.4 TSI engine is a multiple winner of the Engine of the Year competition), in 2015 it was replaced by an even more advanced EA211 series with a new, seriously modified 1.4 TSI engine.

Engine modifications 1.4 TSI

1. BLG (2005 - 2009) - a compressor and turbocharged engine that blows 1.35 bar and the engine develops 170 hp. on 98 gasoline. The engine is equipped with an air intercooler, complies with the Euro-4 environmental standard, and controls all Bosch Motronic MED 9.5.10 ECUs.
2. BMY (2006 - 2010) - an analogue of BLG, where the boost was lowered to 0.8 bar, and the power dropped to 140 hp. Here you can get by with 95th gasoline.
3. BWK (2007 - 2008) - version for the Tiguan with 150 hp.
4. CAXA (2007 - 2015) - 1.4 TSI 122 hp engine.It is simpler in all components than a compressor with a turbine. The turbine on the CAXA is a Mitsubishi TD025 (which is smaller than that of the Twincharger) with a maximum pressure of up to 0.8 bar, which quickly starts boosting and eliminates the need for a compressor. In addition, there are modified pistons, an intake manifold without dampers and with a liquid intercooler, a head with flatter intake ports, modified camshafts, simpler exhaust valves, redesigned injectors, Bosch Motronic MED 17.5.20 ECU. The motor meets Euro-4 standards.
5. CAXC (2007 - 2015) - analogue of SAXA, but software power increased to 125 hp.
6. CFBA - engine for the Chinese market, also the most powerful version with one turbine - 134 hp.
7. CAVA (2008 - 2014) - analogue of BWK for Euro-5.
8.CAVB (2008 - 2015) - analogue of BLG for Euro-5.
8. CAVC (2008 - 2015) - BMY engine for Euro 5 standard.
9.CAVD (2008 - 2015) - 160 hp CAVC engine with firmware. Boost pressure 1.2 bar.
10. CAVE (2009 - 2012) - 180 hp engine with firmware. for Polo GTI, Fabia RS and Ibiza Cupra. Boost pressure 1.5 bar.
11.CAVF (2009 - 2013) - version for Ibiza FR with 150 hp.
12. CAVG (2010 - 2011) - top variant among all 1.4 TSIs with 185 hp. Stands on Audi A1
12. CDGA (2009 - 2014) - version for operation on gas, power 150 hp.
13. CTHA (2012 -2015) - analogue of CAVA with other pistons, chain and tensioner. The ecological class remained Euro-5.
14.CTHB (2012 - 2015) - analogue of CTHA with a capacity of 170 hp.
15. CTHC (2012 - 2015) - the same CTHA, but stitched under 140 hp.
16.CTHD (2010 - 2015) - 160 hp engine with firmware.
17. CTHE (2010 - 2014) - one of the most powerful versions with 180 hp.
18.CTHF (2011 - 2015) - 150 hp Ibiza FR engine.
19.CTHG (2011 - 2015) - the engine that replaced the CAVG, the power is the same - 185 hp.

1.4 TSI engine problems and malfunctions

1. Timing chain stretching, tensioner problems. The most common drawback of 1.4 TSI, which appears with runs from 40-100 thousand km. Cracking in the engine is its typical symptom, when such a sound appears, it is worth going to replace the timing chain. To avoid repetition, do not leave the vehicle on a slope in gear.
2. Doesn't go. In this case, the problem most likely lies in the turbocharger bypass valve or turbine control valve, check and everything will work out.
3. Troite, vibration to cold. The peculiarity of the operation of 1.4 TSI engines, after warming up, these symptoms go away.
In addition, VW-Audi TSI engines take a long time to warm up and like to eat a little. quality oil, but the problem is not so critical. With timely service, use quality gasoline, quiet operation and a normal attitude to the turbine (after movement, let it run for 1-2 minutes), the motor will leave for a rather long time, the resource Volkswagen engine 1.4 TSI is over 200,000 km.

Volkswagen 1.4 TSI engine tuning

Chip tuning

The most simple and reliable option increasing the power on these motors is chip tuning. Regular Stage 1 chip with 1.4 TSI 122 hp or 125 hp. capable of turning it into a 150-160 strong motor with a torque of under 260 Nm. At the same time, the resource will not critically change - a good urban option. With the downpipe, another 10 hp can be removed.
On engines Twincharger the situation is more interesting, here with the Stage 1 firmware you can raise the power to 200-210 hp, while the torque will increase to 300 Nm. You don't have to stop there and go further by making a standard Stage 2: chip + downpipe. Such a kitwill give you about 230 hp. and 320 Nm of torque, these will be relatively reliable and driving forces.It makes no sense to go further - reliability will significantly decrease, and it's easier to buy a 2.0 TSI, which will immediately give 300 hp.