If you are going to buy a good sewing machine, then it is important to understand how they can differ from each other, other than the number of stitches and operations.
The most "unpretentious" inexpensive sewing machines are electromechanical models. The most expensive cars are, as a rule, computer programmed, which is why they are called computerized cars. Such machines have practically unlimited possibilities for making a variety of stitches, they can make eyelet loops and even embroider simple patterns.
Between these two extremes lies another type of sewing machine - electronic sewing machines. They are, of course, radically different from electromechanical models, but at the same time they cannot be called fully computerized, if only because they do not have the usual LCD display with touch control. Although for electronic control these machines also use programs.
In this article, we will take a closer look at one of these machines. It is electronic sewing machine by Janome, model 6260. This overview is not detailed instructions on operation, the performance of certain operations is considered only indirectly. The main emphasis is on the main differences of such machines from other types, their advantages and features.
1. Features of the electronic sewing machine
The first thing to start with when choosing a sewing machine is to determine the type of shuttle. In this model, Janome uses a horizontal shuttle, about the features of which several articles have been written on our website. But in a nutshell, this is a modern type of shuttle that allows you to sew any of the most "capricious" fabrics, such as stretch, knitwear, etc., with high quality.
See Benefits of a Horizontal Shuttle.
Shown here is the shuttle stroke without the upper stitch plate to warn you that sometimes the stitch plate needs to be removed and the fleece and other debris from prolonged use are removed. Well, and also recall that the lower thread tension is adjusted in such machines with a screw located on the side of the shuttle stroke. Unfortunately, it is often only possible to reach it after removing the stitch plate. However, it is often not necessary to adjust the bobbin thread; it is enough to correctly adjust it once.
But in this photo you can already see the differences between such a machine and an electromechanical model. This is how the first button on the left controls reverse sewing machine, the second one - automatic performance of a bartack, the third one adjusts the position of the needle after the end of sewing (above the fabric or inside the fabric).
The following lever adjusts the operating speed of the sewing machine. No, of course she has a pedal and, by the way, is very good. It's just an additional function that limits the speed of the engine, often indispensable for a beginner seamstress and in other cases.
2. Types of stitches and operations
You no longer need to turn the lever to adjust the stitch width and length. All this is done automatically with the help of long keys located just below this electronic board.
Well, here we come to the most interesting place, the number of lines performed by an electronic computerized typewriter. There will be something to brag to your friends, 60 lines is an impressive figure. However, this is a joke. Of course, there are a lot of lines and we can say for sure that many of them will remain unused.
But, as for switching them, there are four round buttons for this. By clicking on one of them, you will see on the screen the number of the line you have selected. Well, you will see below how it will look on the item.
Pay attention to operations numbered 16-22. These are the types of buttonholes that the sewing machine sews. Among them, there is one eye loop (19).
3. Controlling an electronic sewing machine
There are no special external differences in such machines. As well as others, there is a presser foot lifter, a handwheel, a pedal, a device for winding thread onto a bobbin, etc. But when you turn on the machine to the network, you will immediately notice that some kind of automatic settings are taking place. This indicates that almost all the main processes of the machine are under the control of the "program": the position of the needle, shuttle, rail, etc. This is what allows you to achieve High Quality lines, but at the same time complicates the design of the machine, which affects its price and makes it take care of it.
In this photo on the left is the pressure regulator of the presser foot on the fabric, on the right is the lever for adjusting the upper thread tension.
In this photo it is seen better, at the same time it is shown how the spool of thread is located. By the way, this is a very correct position, since the thread is removed from the top, and not from the side. This, in turn, affects the uniform tension of the upper thread, the absence of jerks, which ensures a high-quality tightening of the stitch in the line. These are the little things that make up the overall quality of any sewing machine.
This is the unit for connecting the machine to the network, where there is a connector for connecting an electric cord and an electric drive pedal. Note the white cord, pedal cord. The pedal of such a machine is like a separate accessory, not only does it have a special plug for connection, but also only one wire. This, again, is an inconspicuous difference from other pedal designs and is very convenient. You just need to remember how many times you had to unravel the pedal wiring, which always gets in the way under your feet.
Well, here she is, "beauty" herself. Metallic, heavy, thin and elegant. It is not by chance that I focus on it, since it is a very important unit of any sewing machine. We just never notice that it is not the hands, but the leg that is most involved when working on the sewing machine. And your mood, and sometimes the quality of work, depends on how comfortable it is for her.
I even removed the cover so you can see how well made such a pedal is. Unlike other models, a modern rheostat design is used here, without any electronics, but it is reliable and durable.
4. Repair of electronic sewing machine
Sewing machines of this class are made quite reliably and can work for years without breakdowns. But technology is technology, especially since its owner herself can often be involved in the breakdown. Therefore, try to strictly follow the recommendations of the manufacturer, do not sew on it those fabrics for which it is not intended, do not use low-quality threads and needles, and in no case try to sew leather and other rough materials. For this, there are special machines or use the services of a studio.
Despite the fact that the electronic machine does not provide DIY repair or adjustment, however, sometimes it is necessary to remove the stitch plate and clean this compartment from dust and lint. A special screwdriver must be attached to the machine for unscrewing the screws that secure the plate. Do not try to unscrew them with another, the slots of the screw head can be easily damaged and the resulting burrs will cause tightening on the fabric.
5. Which sewing machine to buy?
If you are reading this article, then most likely you are interested in the question of how to choose a sewing machine. If my opinion is important to you, then of course such a machine is just super. Even its appearance, heavy weight, dimensions evoke absolute confidence and confidence in its reliability and quality. And not necessarily this particular model of Janome. Sewing machines of this class are produced by almost all well-known manufacturers: Janome, Brother, Singer, Juki, etc.
There can be no doubt, of course, the machine is worth the money for which it is sold (from 20 thousand rubles). This is about the same as the Soviet black-and-white television "Record" and a modern plasma panel with a diagonal of more than a meter. What a doubt there can be, and accordingly, the price does not surprise anyone.
But there are always circumstances that force buyers to think carefully. And first of all, financial opportunities. And if a non-poor person buys such a typewriter rather for a hobby, then many people need a typewriter as a tool for repairing the clothes of their household, with the sole purpose of saving money on buying new things. Of course, in this case, it would be wiser to buy an economy class sewing machine, for 4-5 thousand rubles, without losing hope when buying such a miracle of technology - an electronic sewing machine.
In fact, any sewing machine, even the simplest one, can help you create a masterpiece. In the end, the era of the great couturiers fell on the second half of the 19th - early 20th century, when sewing machines had just come into use and were quite simple. Not about computer control, there was no question of an electric drive, but it was in those days that such great masters as Charles Worth, Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel lived and worked.
At the same time, it is foolish to deny that a good and correctly selected sewing machine can significantly save the time, effort and nerves of the master. How to make the right choice, not get lost in a huge number of firms and models, choose from the list of functions what you need, and not pay too much?
Let's try to figure it out. First, decide exactly what you need a machine for. You just want to have it close at hand, so that you can shorten too long trousers yourself, without running every time in the atelier, sew up a jacket torn by a child and cut a new curtain, and you are unlikely to aim for something more? Maybe there is a desire to sew carnival costumes for children - or are you determined to come to grips with your wardrobe? If you are going to sew, then what? Summer dresses made of light fabrics, or coats and harsh jeans? Or maybe they are mainly in the mood for knitwear? Having decided, you can start choosing the model that is optimal for your goals.
Let's define the points on which to make a choice. Firstly, this is the manufacturer, secondly, the type of sewing machine, and thirdly, the required set of functions that will determine a specific model. Let's start with the first one.
⇡ Manufacturer
Here, as in any other field, there are market leaders and little-known firms.
The most famous are Minerva, Bernina, Janome, Pfaff, Brother, Singer, Husqvarna. The choice among the leading manufacturers is largely determined by personal preferences, the presence in the store of a choice of the machines themselves and additional accessories to them. You should also take into account the presence of service centers in your place of residence - with a large "mileage" of the machine, this factor begins to play a significant role.
With lesser-known firms, things are not so simple. Often, with the same set of functions, a typewriter from an unknown company costs significantly less. But, in addition to the obvious risk of getting the worst quality, here you can stumble upon another pitfall: difficulties in acquiring additional legs and accessories. Little-known companies often have very exotic foot attachments or bobbin sizes. Therefore, if you nevertheless decide to save money, be sure to find out which accessories are suitable for this model, and whether you will be able to purchase them without unnecessary hassle and overpayments.
⇡ Types of sewing machines
All sewing machines are classified into industrial and household sewing machines. Usually, a household one can do a lot of things at once, and an industrial one can do one thing - but it can do this one very well and for whole days, years, kilometers - without breaking. At least that's the idea.
However, industrial machines are unlikely to interest you, unless you intend to open a small sewing enterprise - they are very expensive, bulky and noisy to work with - so in this material we will concentrate on household ones. Household machines are divided into:
- electromechanical,
- computer,
- sewing and embroidery
- embroidery,
- overlocks,
- cover-up,
- carpetlocks.
What does this all mean, and which category should you choose?
1. Electromechanical sewing machines- the simplest of all. The entire internal filling of such a machine is mechanics, that is, levers, shafts and gears. Only the engine that sets it in motion is electric.
- 32 types of stitches
- hinge semiautomatic
- vertical shuttle
- stitch length 4 mm
- stitch width 5 mm
Of the undoubted advantages of this type is reliability, low price, inexpensive repair in case of breakdown. Conventional electromechanical machines are inferior to computer ones in terms of speed and number of functions, since the technological design features do not allow performing stitches of complex shapes, but are perfect for novice seamstresses, or those who want to have a reliable assistant for small household needs. However, a coat, jeans, and a ball gown are quite capable of a good and properly adjusted electromechanical machine. The approximate price category of such machines is 3-5 thousand rubles. Simple, affordable, reliable.
2. Computer sewing machines They are distinguished by the presence of a computer board that carries out the general management of the process, which allows this type of machine to carry out rather intricate stitch programs. The movement of the needle relative to the fabric in them is controlled by a microprocessor. What a particular model can do depends on the amount of memory and the number of programs of this machine "brain".
- 197 types of operations
- loop machine
- horizontal shuttle
- stitch length 4.5 mm
- stitch width 7 mm
Their starting price is about two to three times the price of electromechanical ones. At first glance, a huge number of types of stitching seems to be an undoubted advantage. These are 15 types of different loops, and chains of different flower-leaves, and a dozen overlock stitches, and knitted seams. But take a close look at this list and think about which ones you personally will actually use? It turns out that you don't need a part at all, and another part is multiple duplicates of the same thing with minor deviations.
Personally, I regularly use six or seven of the 56 lines that I have in my car, and use two more from time to time. However, one cannot fail to notice that this already greatly expands my capabilities, in comparison with working on an electromechanical sewing machine. So do not be tempted by the excess of functions - it is not at all a fact that you will need all of them. Rather, the fact that many of them you are unlikely to even ever try.
Several types of overlock stitches, a knitted seam, a triple reinforced stitch, a knitted buttonhole and a buttonhole with an eyelet will be useful in the work - in addition to the usual buttonhole, of course. The rest of the functions are at your discretion, just don't let this variety turn your head. It's a shame to pay extra money for something that you will never use.
The undoubted advantage of a well-oiled computer machine is the speed and accuracy of work. If your plans include kilometers of frills and sewing to order for 8 hours a day - a computer machine will significantly save you time and give you additional opportunities for creativity. The eyelet buttonhole is of course a trifle, but this trifle affects the entire look of the coat.
Of the minuses - the high price, capriciousness in setting, and repair, in which case, more expensive.
3. Sewing-embroidery and embroidery machines... Everything is simple here, unlike industrial embroidery machines, which can, in fact, only embroider, such combines often combine two functions.
In my personal opinion, budget versions of sewing and embroidery machines combine these functions very badly. They are too capricious in comparison with ordinary sewing ones, and in comparison with full-fledged embroidery ones, they are too limited in embroidery possibilities. And the more expensive models are also frightening with the price. Therefore, I recommend considering this class of machines exclusively as embroidery machines and purchasing them based on these goals.
Also, do not think that by buying an embroidery machine for 100 - 300 thousand, you will immediately create a masterpiece. Embroidery on a sewing machine is also an art to learn. On courses or independently, from books or online lessons. In general, working on it is somewhat similar to working in Photoshop. You can go to a specialized site, type there motives drawn by someone, quickly read the instructions and glue them together as it turns out, adding stars and hearts with a stamp. But if you look at the masterpieces created by professionals, it becomes clear that this is not even a third of the capabilities of this tool.
So, think carefully about whether you need it, and to be honest, in most cases it is much easier and incomparably cheaper to order embroidery in a workshop that already has serious equipment and a good craftsman. Outsourcing is our everything. Personally, that's what I usually do.
4. Covering sewing machines... They are - coverstitch machines.
Designed to make an elastic flat seam used to close the hem edge of a jersey. All this intricate verbal construction denotes the seam that you can see on the hem and sleeves of almost any T-shirt.
Among household machines, flat seams can be made of two types: coverstitch machines and carpetlocks. A regular seam looks the same with front side, and the wrong side, as the upper thread wraps around the lower thread (bobbin) and tightens. A flat or chain stitch looks different. It is obtained by the simultaneous operation of two or more needles and loopers.
This type of sewing machine is designed for sewing stretch fabrics. If your main goal is T-shirts, swimwear and tracksuits, this is your choice. Price category from 10-15 thousand.
5. Overlock Is a machine with one or two needles, equipped with a trimming mechanism and designed for overcasting of a wide variety of garments. When choosing an overlock, first of all, you should focus on convenience when refueling and sewing. You should also not forget about the possibility of overcasting with a different number of threads. Most overlocks have 3- and 4-thread overcast to suit most fabrics and roll overcast. On higher class overlocks there is a 2-thread overcast for the finest fabrics such as silk or chiffon, as well as decorative trims.
In principle, computer sewing machines also have overlock functions. But a seam made on a real overlock is much more accurate and reliable. In addition, the overlocker is equipped with knives that cut off excess stock by themselves, leveling the edge, which significantly saves time. In general, if you sew regularly, and the free space allows you to place two units - the overlock will be a very useful acquisition, but if not, you can do without it. In any case, it does not replace the sewing machine, but only complements it. It is not intended for the assembly of product parts. The price for overlocks starts from 6-7 thousand, for 10 you can buy a quite decent model.
6. Coverlock- a relatively new invention with which many are not particularly familiar. This name was invented by Pfaff's marketers for their range of such machines and patented, after which it firmly entered into use. It combines the word "overlock" and English term coverstitch, which is a "covering" or "covering" stitch. This machine can perform both overcasting of garments, as well as flat seams and straight chain stitching, that is, it combines an overlock and a coverstitch machine. The price of carpetlocks is quite high and starts from 25-30 thousand.
Like the cover sewing machine, the rug is designed to work with knitwear. The design also assumes the presence of several (from 2 to 10) upper threads and loopers, with the help of which you can create various, sometimes very complex seams, indistinguishable from industrial ones.
What to choose for working with knitwear - a carpetlock or a pair of overlocks plus a sewing machine? On the one hand, the carpetlock has a larger number of loopers, which allows making more complex seams, it alone takes up much less space, and its high price is quite comparable to the total cost of a coverlock and an overlocker. On the other hand, when processing a garment, you may need an overlock first, then a flat seam, again an overlock, again a flat seam, and so on every five minutes.
In the case of two machines, this will not present any difficulty, and each time the carpetlock will have to be reconfigured from a flat seam to an overcast or overlock and back again. And this is a rather long and painstaking process, which, even with skill, takes several minutes. It's up to you to decide what is more convenient.
⇡ Model capabilities
This question is most acute when choosing a specific model of a computer sewing machine. It is for this type of machine that the number of lines often exceeds two hundred and causes ripples in the eyes and dizziness. You do not need to start your choice with the number of lines. There are more important parameters that should be determined first.
1. The type of fabric the machine is designed to work with. There are machines for working with all types of fabrics, there are models designed for light and medium, or vice versa, for medium and heavy fabrics. If you definitely know that your main area of activity will be, for example, dance dresses made of silk and chiffon - take a machine for light fabrics, it will work with them better than a universal one. If your choice is coats and jeans, consider models for medium to heavy fabrics. They usually have a larger gap between the foot and the stitch plate, which allows a thicker layer of fabric to be put under the foot, and a more powerful motor that can sew this layer.
2. The maximum stitch length (sometimes up to 5 mm) and the maximum zigzag width (up to 7 mm). The larger these parameters, the better: it expands the field of possibilities.
3. Hook type: the hook is vertical, with a removable bobbin case, and horizontal, where there is no bobbin case. The second option is more modern and more reliable - it has fewer parts that can break.
4. The loop can be automatic or semi-automatic. "Full" automatic machine allows you to perform up to 7 different types loops, in one operation, sweep the loop exactly to the size of the button, remember the size and repeat the loop of the same size as many times as you need.
Automatic buttonhole foot
The semi-automatic buttonhole is usually performed with simpler models. Here you determine the size, guided by the markings on the foot, the buttonhole is overcast in 4 consecutive operations. It is not difficult and not that very long, but if you multiply by 10, 20, 30 buttons per suit, the difference turns out to be decent.
Semi-automatic buttonhole foot
5. Optional, but very handy features include the built-in needle threader, twin needle sewing, needle positioning button and bartack button. If you are going to sew in large quantities, you should pay attention to the possibility of working without a pedal and external speed control, this greatly protects your leg, which after four to five hours of continuous pressing on the pedal begins to complain, moreover, the pedals fail faster than the machines themselves. and they do it, as a rule, at the most inopportune moment.
⇡ Optional accessories
The possibilities of the machine you have purchased in the basic configuration are far from the limit. Accessories play a huge role in the quality of the result and the speed of its achievement. The fact is that for a quality result, it is very important to choose the right foot, needle and thread for each fabric and operation. The table of the ratio of the thickness of the needles and threads is in the instructions for the sewing machine - and here you are unlikely to be mistaken.
But in addition, for difficult fabrics, there are special needles - for example, they will be needed for working with leather, denim, stretch fabrics and jersey. Different sharpening of the point allows them to work most accurately with the material for which they are intended. Very often situations arise when a novice seamstress scolds the machine for skipping stitches or another seam defect, and the point is just the wrong choice of a needle.
There is also a huge variety of paws. On one of the largest Russian-language forums dedicated to needlework, the topic about various paws takes more than 200 pages and is regularly updated. Moreover, in basic configuration only the very minimum hits. And this is where the initial choice of the machine begins to play a role - your capabilities in the end may rest on how easy it is for you to purchase additional legs.
5. Foot for sewing, beading and sequins.
And hundreds more types of feet, attachments and devices designed to take on what previously could only be done by hand. Make your work easier and make sewing a fun process.
⇡ Total
Of course, this is not all that can be said about sewing machines. Despite the apparent similarity, each model may have nuances and subtleties that will make it the most suitable, or vice versa, unacceptable, personally for you. Ease of threading, the location of buttons and control levers, the sound when working, the type of light bulb and more, and more, and more.
Ideally, you should go to the showroom of a large store and sit at different models, thread the threads, sew a test line, trying how it will be, and whether it will be convenient for you. If this is not possible, or you have a sorely lack of time for this, wait for the next issues. I will do it for you and will share my impressions in as much detail as I can.
Modern sewing machines no longer look like their antique counterparts for a long time. appearance, not at times increased functionality. We present the rating of the best popular in 2018-2019. sewing machines for the home - according to reviews from buyers and experts.
The assortment presented in stores is so wide that when buying, it is advisable to imagine in advance by what criteria the offered models differ.
Criteria for choosing a good sewing machine
Control type can be mechanical, electromechanical and computer, depending on the method of constructing the line. Electromechanical ones, as a rule, are not too expensive and are intended for occasional household use, while electronic counterparts are more suitable for those who sew frequently (for example, to order). For the pros, it is better to choose a computer-controlled sewing machine, in which an embroidery module is often present.
Shuttle type is represented by a vertical or horizontal shuttle, while the latter option is most often typical for professional, complex models and creates much less noise.
Functionality sewing machine is determined by the number of possible operations, which includes a variety of types of stitches, and methods of sewing a buttonhole, and additional sewing options.
Equipment each model directly depends on the previous criterion. V different models optional fabric needles of different weights, interchangeable feet, and tools for servicing the sewing machine may be supplied. It is advisable that the machine has a special compartment for storing all sewing accessories.
Which sewing machine is the best?
The undoubted leaders in the production of sewing machines are deservedly considered as European manufacturers - Bernina, Pfaff, Husqvarna and Asian firms - Janome, Brother, Juki, Jaguar... The products of the American brand are also appreciated. Singer... Moreover, each company regularly improves its models, not yielding to competitors in terms of assembly quality.
The most popular inexpensive sewing machines now are models from a Japanese company. Janome(production is located in Japan, Taiwan and Thailand). The assortment of this company includes many models for both beginner craftswomen and for infrequent home use, and for professionals. Bribes a large number positive feedback about the machines of this company - both from craftswomen and from specialists and craftsmen service centers... She is on the heels of the most popular in Russia. Japanese company - Brother... For regular sewing, craftsmen still recommend choosing from Janome - there are more metal parts in the design of these machines, they are more reliable.
Masters advise when buying to pay attention to the weight of the machine - the heavier, the more metal parts inside.
For home, for occasional use, you can choose between Janome and Brother - according to the principle - what you like and the availability of the necessary functions. Here, sometimes the low weight can even be an advantage - it is easier to take out and return later to the storage location.
Concerning Singer- so it was they in 1851 put up for sale the first sewing machine in history (it cost $ 100), conquered the market and have been holding it for a century and a half. Time-tested quality. Deserves respect! (By the way, the Podolsk sewing machine, which is popular with our mothers and grandmothers, was produced at a factory previously owned by Singer).
But in the modern market the Japanese are definitely in the lead (among household - Janome and Brother, among more professional models - Janome, Juki, Swiss Bernina). Among these manufacturers it is better to make a choice.
Different stores use and mix up the concepts of electronic, computer, mechanical, electronic-mechanical, electrical and other sewing machines. As a result, when they come home after consultations, people still cannot understand what kind of beast they saw in the window ... whether it was an electronic machine, or some other.
Essentially, modern household sewing machines are divided into only 2 types. And there is nothing more to invent)
The first type is mechanical sewing machines. These are machines in which either there is no electronic board, or the simplest control unit is present. But copiers are responsible for switching lines. And it is easy to imagine that they cannot be crammed into a car in unlimited quantities. Hence the set of stitches - up to 24.
Stitching and operations should not be confused. And then many manufacturers write that their machine has 40 operations ... but in fact there are 24 copiers, and everything else is regulated simply by changing the stitch width and stitch length.
Examples of classic, "iron-resistant" sewing machines include Janome 1221, Janome My Excel W23U, Janome SE 518, Janome 7518, Janome 7524A, Janome 7524E. Many people think that the W23U or Janome 7524E machines have become electronic because of the needle positioning and variable speed control functions, but this is not entirely true. It's just that the simplest electronic functions were crammed into them)
Mechanical sewing machines are further divided in terms of power (this is very important for this kind of machines). There are machines "weaker", for example, Janome MS 100, Janome MT 2216, Janome DC 2030, and there are machines with good power, allowing you to work with dense fabrics without effort. Such machines have already been called "iron-resistant" a little higher)
The second type is electronic sewing machines. These are machines in which an electronic board is responsible for a set of lines and their switching. Therefore, these machines can have almost unlimited functionality. It all depends on what programs the manufacturer has included in the board.
The main thing, in my opinion, the difference between electronic sewing machines and mechanical sewing machines is that with them "less need to bother." Turned on the operation - she sews. Because some average parameters of the width and length of the line are already stored in the memory of the machine. There is no need to look in the instructions for what length, width to put ... God forbid, you will also touch the foot with a needle.
Electronic machines are "simpler", for example, Janome DC 50, Janome QC 2325, Janome 4030, ELNA 6200, New Home 8330. These have an excellent set of basic working stitches, several types of loops, decorative stitches they have a lot.
"More complex" - such machines as Janome DC 3600, MC 5200. On the boards of these machines, in addition to the basic working operations, various alphabets and many decorative stitches are programmed. Such machines are suitable for those who like not so much to repair as to decorate clothes, do patchwork and quilting. Decorate handkerchiefs, napkins ...
"Heaped up" - these are machines that have not only an excellent set of stitches, but also all kinds of electronic gadgets that simplify sewing. For example, "select the density of the fabric" ... "better put on such and such needles" ... "and I will set the presser foot pressure automatically." Such machines are most often made by European manufacturers such as Elna 7300 PRO, Elna 740 eXcellence. Very nice, but also expensive by itself.
"Embroidery" are machines that, may it not be a surprise for you, not only sew, but also embroider. You transfer designs to them on a flash drive, which then end up on fabric. All that is required of you is to change the threads. This is, for example, a Janome 350e, Elna 820, Elna 9900 (embroidery) or Elna 8600 (sewing and embroidery) machine. There are many more. I just like these.
V electronic machines do not pay attention to the power. They have an electronic needle puncture amplifier. Therefore, if anything, then it will help to process dense fabric.
And the choice should be made according to your needs. But do not forget that they can change over the 5-10 years that you will use the purchased machine. It probably makes sense to go a little beyond the planned costs of a thing that has a little more functionality and potential to satisfy your ideas (even if they arise only in the future).
From a number of such things. No, of course, this model was produced in Czechoslovakia, even in large quantities ... But: this does not occur with the Russian type and, it seems, was not produced at all in Cyrillic. It is important to understand that a lot of typewriter models were produced, and only a quarter, if not less, of the total number was made with the Russian alphabet. It is especially offensive when incredibly beautiful samples were not supplied to the USSR and were not made with a Russian font, since they were focused only on the domestic market of European countries or the United States.
Initially, my Consul wrote in Finnish, and my friend from Finland gave me this typewriter. And it so happened that on every "foreign language" typewriter that comes into my collection, rubbing my hands, I look like a writing device that can be Russified, because I think that at least half of all samples from my collection should be written in Russian. 
Photo of the very car that entered my collection: tori.fi
In order to realize the adventure of reworking the typewriter, you need to replace not only the font, but also the keys, and for this you need to get the correct technical information to make a "new" thing, close to the original, or even coinciding with it.
To do this, you need to find out if the typewriter plant has produced other models of the same brand with a Russian font. With luck, it may turn out that the parts we need are identical or quite suitable. Soon I found a "donor" in Moscow: it was a heavily worn-out Consul 235 - such a machine just meets the Russian font. The collector Denis Bukin intercepted it at my request, for which we are once again grateful to him. There was no doubt that the keys would coincide by 100%, but I evaluated the comparability of the letter levers only from the photo, having carefully examined the design of the segment and the location of the stops (special projections) on the letter levers. 
After the machine arrived in St. Petersburg,
the result was not long in coming. The operation began immediately.
Here's what's left of Consul 235,
which I managed to photograph before disposing:
After spending a couple of hours, I dragged letters from one typewriter to another.
And it all came together. Including keys.
And now how not to be proud of such a machine! It is light and small, at the same time reliable - the body is made of metal, and the design is simply space. And she writes in Russian! 
It is important to warn you right away: the decision to rearrange the lettering levers from a typewriter, even of the same model, but released in different years, can turn into a fiasco: it happened, for example, the manufacturer introduced minor changes to the design of the segment or the shape of the lettering lever. So if you want to go for such experiments, you need to take these risks and hope for luck. Consul 231.2 is not the only typewriter that I happened to get to write in Russian. Sometimes it is necessary to Russify those that, although they were produced in Cyrillic, but survived terribly: in the USSR, machines were exploited to the point of incredible loosening of the mechanisms, and in the West they were not very much taken care of, they just bought new models to replace the old ones much more often. Therefore, it is often easier to take a “foreign language” and put it in a Russian font. This is how another fantastic Royal Standard 10 car appeared in my collection.
True, for its Russification, I did not drag the levers, but re-soldered the pads from the typewriter. I will discuss the reasons for this decision in a separate review. 
And there are such machines when comparable parts for their Russification cannot be found. For example, the beauty Antares Annabella. This machine was produced in the 1960s by a small factory Antares S.p.A. in Milan. The company has produced a whole series of models under the Antares brand, but such devices have never come out with the Russian alphabet. And this is understandable: the whole world, including the USSR, supplied its invincible competitor from Italy with typewriters in all languages.
However, one of thousands of them writes in Russian. And it is already being used for its intended purpose. I was ordered to re-solder such a machine at the end of last year. What decision was made for its Russification, I will not tell. The secret of road exclusivity.
Stages of working operations during the Russification of Antares Annabella:
removal and arming of keys
I can only say that in order for her to write in Russian, it took two "donors", which were delivered from the Siberian regions of Russia, and the printing pads were needed not simple, but concave.
PS. The Riga collector notes such a tendency: European collectors of cars, produced not in their country, want to get with the alphabet of the language spoken in the manufacturing country. That is, if they need a typewriter "Moscow", then it must be written in Cyrillic. In Russia, I declare with full responsibility, this rule does not work. We want to write in our native language, but preferably on some special, exotic typewriter. And this is understandable and close to me. The reason is stated in the first paragraph of the article. And one more thing: the “foreign language” typewriter, well soldered in Russian, is a real holiday for us. And rarely will anyone be outraged that someone outraged the original and offended the feelings of connoisseurs of "originals". And if I am wrong, I am ready to listen to any other, erroneous opinion.
