| no comments
Pressing out old jet thrust bushings.
Having removed the first lever, we inspect the bushing, if it is very old, then it will be very difficult to extrude it, in this case, burning it out will help. To do this, light a fire and use fire to burn out the old sleeve, you can also do this with a gas burner. 
If you have a powerful grip you can try to squeeze it out.
Pressing in new bushings.
After the old bushings are pressed out, we proceed to pressing in the new ones; before that, you need to clean the inner part of the rod with a file. If you want your new rubber bands to last longer, I recommend installing polyurethane instead of rubber. 
Such silent blocks are much more durable than standard rubber ones. To press them in, you need a vise, or a pipe section of a suitable diameter and a bolt. 
This is how it all looks, before pressing in the silent block, it is necessary to thoroughly lubricate it with soapy water in order to facilitate its installation. I recommend watching this car repair in the video below.
Also read other interesting articles about that on our website and join our Vkontakte group.
Jet thrust (rod) - element car suspension, limiting the movement of the front steering knuckle or rear axle, depending on the installation location. For durability under high loads, the jet thrust is mainly produced from cast resilient steel. But besides the steel base, this part has important element silent block (or eyelet).
Interesting! A silent block is a non-separable rubber-metal hinge, in which the metal outer and inner bushings are non-separable to each other using a layer of elastomer vulcanized between them, usually rubber. But collapsible rubber-metal hinges, in which the rubber sleeve is replaceable, are also simply called silent blocks.
Rubber-metal hinges (hereinafter RMSh) are attached to the rod base by welding. One of the reasons for the malfunction jet thrust is an the appearance of cracks at the place of welding. The second reason for the breakdown of jet rods is wear of the rubber bushing of the silent block which deforms over time and can break. It should also not be ruled out corrosion of the base of the jet rod, especially you need to watch out for those made of pipes.
Important! A malfunction of the jet thrust can be seen from the knocking in the suspension during movement. If a knock appears, inspect the suspension for a malfunction as soon as possible.
How to replace jet thrust and what is needed for this
Place the machine in a suitable location to replace the jet rod. It is best to carry out the work on an overpass or in a pit.
Required tool
To remove the jet thrust, you will definitely need:
- a set of keys,
- brush for metal processing,
- WD-40 lubricating fluid.
Removal of jet rods
To remove the jet thrust, start on the looser side. First you need to clean the junction, then sprinkle with WD-40 grease and wait until it gets wet. Then you can unscrew the nut. If this does not work, you need to reapply WD-40.
You can also use a longer wrench to make it easier to unscrew. Usually the bolt sticks hard in the bushing. Therefore, in order to move it from its place, you need to tighten the nut to the edge of the bolt and hit it with a hammer. You need to completely unscrew the nut and get the bolt. Then go to the other side.
When removing long longitudinal reaction rods, to gain access to the reaction rod bolt, unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber, remove the spacer sleeve and move the shock absorber to the side. Carry out the operation of cleaning the connection, as in the first case, and unscrew the nut. If you cannot remove the bolt, then you will not be able to hit it, because access is closed by a brake disc and a semiaxis. In this case, it is best to cut the bolt between the silent block and the bracket.
Attachment of new jet rods
It is necessary to install the rod first in the front bracket, and then in the rear one. Pre-lubricate the bolt with gear oil.
When inserting the torque rod into rear bracket usually the holes do not match. This is because, with a broken thrust, the bridge was constantly moving under the influence of loads.
To align the holes, use a spudger, rest it on the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes line up. When the openings are level, insert the bolt and tighten the nut.
All work on replacing jet rods should be carried out alternately, replacing, for example, first two long ones, and then short ones, or vice versa.
Replacing the bushings of the jet rods of the car
If, when examining the jet thrust, you see that it is not bent, not broken, the eyes are not broken, then it means you can simply replace the rubber bushings RMSh. To replace, you will need:
- buy a set of rubber and metal bushings,
- it is advisable to buy new fasteners (nuts and bolts),
- two spanner keys on "19",
- hammer,
- device for pressing out and pressing in bushings,
- vice (you can do without them)
Note!To lubricate the rubber bushings, it is necessary to use a soapy solution, because they are made of rubber, which is not resistant to oil and gasoline. Using oil for lubrication can shorten the life of the jet thrust.
What an untimely replacement can lead to
With strong wear of the silent block at high speed, you can lose control of the car, it will simply be driven from side to side. If the link breaks, the car will immediately lose stability, which could lead to an accident. Do not take matters to the extreme. As soon as you hear a knock in the suspension, you notice a sharp increase in vibration when driving or unevenly worn tires - immediately inspect the jet rods. It is also worth doing after every 50 km. mileage.
Did you know? That the creation of jet propulsion was preceded by the work of automakers aimed at removing the effect of forces that can turn the car.
If your penny, six or seven when starting off, driving on an uneven road, a knock appeared in the area of the rear axle and along with it the rear axle of the car lost stability, then it’s time to check the condition and, if necessary, replace, rear rod bushings (jet rods)... Of course, you can go the easier way. And replace jet thrust entirely. But this path, though easy, is not cheap. You can compare the price of the repair kit (metal and rubber bushings) of the jet rods yourself and the price of the complete jet rod assembly. I think you will notice the difference. And why pay more if there is no need for it? If jet thrust normal (not broken, not bent, eyes are not broken), which means you can simply replace the rubber bushings. Yes, and if you figure it out, it will not be difficult for you to do this. All that is required of you is the desire to do the job yourself and prepare the tools and accessories that are necessary for the job.
First of all, about spare parts. You can buy immediately set of rubber and metal bushings... Standard set rubber bushings on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-21011, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 consists of 10 pieces, four large and six small. But you can advise, buy a kit rubber bushings on VAZ-2121 (Niva), in this set, all bushings are equally large. Pressing them in is not much more difficult, but they withstand the load better than standard ones. Also, be sure to buy a set (10 pieces) of metal bushings (the old ones are often heavily worn out) - four large and six small. What rubber and metal bushings look like (pay attention to the color of the metal bushings, we buy this color), look at photo No. 2. New fasteners (bolts and nuts), of course, are also better to buy (especially if no one has been dealing with jet rods for a long time ), but here at your discretion or at the discretion of your wallet. Plus, you should buy a set rubber bushings for rear shock absorbers.
As for the instrument…. Here it will be necessary to have at least: two spanner keys for "19", a hammer, a metal rod (useful for knocking out the bolts when removing the rods). But you will have to think about devices for pressing out and pressing in bushings in advance (since work without them will be much more complicated). You can either make them yourself (take a bolt of the corresponding diameter, screw on a nut and grind it to the size of the outer diameter of a metal sleeve) and buy (or order a turner) a ready-made tool (see photo # 3 for what it looks like). Also, the presence of a vice will greatly facilitate the work.
1. Unscrew the nuts and take out (or knock out) the fastening bolts (photo # 1). We remove the cravings.
2. If from one end of the rod the metal sleeve can fall out on its own (photo No. 4), then from the other end, the sleeve will have to be knocked out with our pre-prepared device. (Photo # 5). And, for example, use a screwdriver to pick out the rubber bushing (photo # 6).
3. With a knife we clean the inner part of the traction eye (photo # 7).
4. Using a vice, press in rubber grommet in the rod after lubricating it and the traction eye soapy water (photo # 8). Exactly soapy water and never using oil, since the bushings are NOT made of oil-resistant rubber. And by lubricating them with oil, you will shorten their life.
5. After that, using the "special tool", press in metal sleeve, having also lubricated it with soapy water, look at photos # 9 and # 10. In the absence of a "special tool", metal sleeve as well as rubber, can be pressed in a vice.
And that's it! We carry out the same procedure with others. rear rods ... When installing jet rods per vehicle, fastening bolts, it is better to lubricate, for example, with nigrol. Otherwise, the next repair of jet rods will turn into an exam in the skill of owning a grinder!))
UPD 01/05/2016
Please love and favor - SEVI-Extreme jet rods (rods) bushings for cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2102, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107 manufactured by SEVI. I'm not afraid of loud words and I will say that these sleeves, the best of all possible options tie rod bushings for Classics... I can say so confidently, because as soon as these bushings appeared on the car market, I bought them and immediately installed them on my penny. You can call it a pioneer experiment. In the photos below you can see in which packaging they were sold at first (originally the sleeves were called SEVY-Spike) and in which box these bushings can be found today. Plus, a photo of the kit. And to say that I was surprised by the result of the experiment would not be correct. It will be right - I was shocked! Yes, I had to tinker with pressing the bushings, but the result was simply amazing. The comfort that appeared in the rear axle of the car is difficult to convey in words. The rear of the vehicle has become more solid and stable. The amount of noise transmitted from the car's suspension to the body has been significantly reduced. Plus, you can add to this the high wear resistance of these bushings - for example, on my car they worked steadily almost 30,000 km of run... And none of the bushings were out of order. How long they still served I cannot say for sure, since the car was sold.
After the tests, the turn of the customers came in their car. True, not everyone agreed for the installation of rubber-metal bushings for jet rods SEVI-Extreme. Since the price of a set of these bushings upset even the most fanatical car enthusiast who doted on his iron friend and never spared money on him Maintenance and repair. To make it clearer: the price of a set of these super bushings was (and is) equated to the price of a complete set of jet rods made in China... Or -60% of the cost factory jet rods (rods) of Balakovo production... There is something to think about ...
But, despite the price issue, I have already managed to install these hubs on about a dozen cars. All car owners are happy and do not regret spent banknotes.
Therefore, I recommend you too! Nothing complicated about installation of thrust bushings SEVI-Extreme no... Everything is the same as with standard bushings. But, there are small features: the eyes of the jet rods of your car must be in good condition- not broken or destroyed by rust. Before pressing in the bushings, the eyelets of the rods (rods) should be thoroughly cleaned. And only after that you can start installing. Locksmith's vice must be mandatory! We treat the eyelet and bushing with soapy water. And slowly we begin to press in.
This is how it was:
Now it has become:
Difficult, as I said, there is nothing. The main thing is that the eyes are cleaned and that they do not fall apart from rust in the hands. And the result should please you. I will be glad if in the comments you share your impressions or your opinion about SEVI-Extreme bushings.
When using an article or photos, an active direct hyperlink to the site www.!
Today we will tell you about the nuances, tips and secrets that are used by the owners of VAZ classics when replacing jet rods, rubber bushings of the rear suspension rods. This entire article is based on both my personal experience and the experience of members of the forum. We have simply combined the main points on replacement and problems that you may have to face into one article and present it to you. Questions, if you still have them, you can ask on our forum in the appropriate topic in the "Chassis" section. So - diagnostics. What can make us climb into rear suspension? Extraneous knocks, strange behavior of the car, expressed in wobbling along the road. Carefully inspect the condition of the rubber bushings - they should not be frayed, torn, etc.
So I will say right away - replacing the bushings is not a 5-minute matter. In general, when replacing the bushings, I took turns unscrewing each rod and immediately after replacing it screwed into place, then removed the next one. If you remove everything at once, it may be difficult to install, since the bridge will move. Now I will describe the process itself - at first I knocked out the metal bushings, some, due to the high wear of the rubber bands, fell out into my hands themselves. Further, an elastic band - so as not to steam with its pressing out, I took a hacksaw for metal, removed the canvas, threaded it into the hole where the metal sleeve was, screwed it to the hacksaw and made two cuts, so that a small piece of the sleeve fell out by itself, and then the rest of it was pulled out by hand. It is more difficult with the installation ...
You can use a press machine like this:
And you can go the other way. Initially, the rubber sleeve is lubricated with soapy water, so that it can "slip through" and then: the first method is pressed in a BIG vice, sometimes not the first time, but it is pressed in, it is useless to press it in with your hands or with a hammer. And if there is no vice, I used the weight of the car and the domkarat, that is, I put the thrust down, put the bushing soaked in a solution to it, then I put the jack on top of them and raise the car for them. The machine presses the rubber bush into the rod with its weight. We do the same manipulations with metal bushings.
Returning to the issue of devices for pressing in bushings, the ball from the bearing with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing is very convenient, we put the ball on the bushing and press it in a large vice, the ball gently pushes the rubber band apart and all pressing takes place quickly and without any effort. I pushed it all the way, pushed the vise apart, substituted something wider in diameter than the bearing, I used the extended pasatizhi, pushed and the ball is ready for new tests.
When disassembling (unscrewing) the rods, there are cases when the bolt has rusted to the metal sleeve, and it is impossible to get it out of there ... If you knock it out, then you have to scatter the floor of the bridge there. There is only one way out -
grinder. Cut exactly along the sleeve. First, cut from the side of the nut, gradually turning the bolt, since the grinder will not be able to cut off the entire bolt in one go, then cut from the side of the cap, also turning the bolt by the cap. For the convenience of work, cut off the bar itself so that it does not interfere.
Safe driving is based on vehicle stability on the road. This rule applies to both cargo and Cars... And VAZ 2107 is no exception. The handling of this car has always left much to be desired. To somehow make life easier for drivers, engineers have developed a jet thrust system for the G7. But any detail, as you know, can fail. And then the driver will be faced with the question: is it possible to change the broken traction with your own hands? Yes, you can. Let's try to figure out how this is done.
The appointment of jet rods on the VAZ 2107
The purpose of the jet rods on the VAZ 2107 is simple: do not allow the car to "walk" along the road and swing strongly when entering sharp turns and when colliding with various obstacles. This problem has been around since the early days of automobiles. They did not know about any jet thrust then, and the cars were equipped with ordinary springs. The result was logical: the car easily overturned, and it was incredibly difficult to drive it. Over time, the car suspension was improved: a system of long rods began to be installed in it, which were supposed to take on some of the loads arising from uneven roads or due to an overly aggressive driving style. On the VAZ 2107 and other classic Zhiguli models, there are five jet rods: a pair of long ones, a pair of short ones, plus a large transverse rod, which serves as the basis of the entire traction system. All this is installed near the rear axle of the car.
You can see this system only from the inspection pit, where all work is done to replace broken rods.
On the choice of jet thrust
Currently, there are not so many large manufacturers producing jet thrust for the VAZ 2107 and other classics. Their products differ in both price and reliability. Let's consider the most popular products.
Rows "Track"
The Trek products are very popular among the owners of the sevens. These rods are distinguished by their high reliability and high price, which starts from 2,100 rubles per set.
The main difference of the "Track" is the head for the bushings. They are, firstly, large, and secondly, they are attached to the rods by welding. And also silent blocks on "Tracks" are made of extra dense rubber, which significantly extends their service life.
Rods "Cedar"
The overwhelming majority of "sevens" that had previously rolled off the assembly line were fitted with jet thrust precisely from "Kedr", since this company has always been and remains the official supplier of "AvtoVAZ".
In terms of quality, "Kedr" is somewhat inferior to "Trek". This is especially true for bushings and silent blocks. All this wears out rather quickly, and therefore, they will have to be changed more often. But there is also good side- affordable price. A set of rods "Cedar" can be purchased for 1,700 rubles.
Rods "Belmag"
With all the simplicity and reliability of Belmag rods, they have one significant drawback: they are not so easy to find on sale. Every year they are less and less common on the shelves of auto parts stores. But if the car owner still manages to find them, then he can be congratulated, since he got a reliable product at a reasonable price. The cost of Belmag rods starts from 1800 rubles per set.
That, in essence, is the entire list of large manufacturers of good rods for the VAZ 2107. Of course, now there are a lot of smaller firms on the market that are rather aggressively promoting their products. But none of these firms gained much popularity among the owners of the classics, therefore it is inappropriate to mention them here.
So what should a driver choose from all of the above?
The answer is simple: the only criterion for choosing jet rods is the thickness of the car owner's wallet. If a person is not constrained in means, the best option there will be a purchase of "Track" rods. Yes, they are expensive, but installing them will allow you to forget about suspension problems for a long time. If the money is not enough, it makes sense to look for Belmag products on the shelves. Well, if this venture is not crowned with success, there remains a third option - "Cedar" rods, which are sold everywhere.
A few words should be said here about fakes. Knowing that car owners most often choose the products of the three above-mentioned companies, unscrupulous manufacturers have now literally filled the counters with fakes. Moreover, in some cases, forgeries are made so skillfully that only a specialist can identify them. An ordinary driver in such a situation can only focus on the price and remember: good things are expensive. And if on the counter there is a set of Track rods for only a thousand rubles, then this is a serious reason to think about it. And take your time with the purchase.
On the modernization of jet thrust
Sometimes drivers decide on their own to increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Typically, linkage upgrades involve two operations. Here they are:
- installation of twin jet rods;
- installation of reinforced jet rods.
Now a little more detail about each of the above operations.
Twin rods
Most often, drivers install double rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: you don't have to do almost anything with the rods for this procedure. It is just that not one, but two sets of rods are purchased, installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the "seven". Plus, not ordinary, but elongated fastening bolts are purchased, on which this whole structure is held.
The obvious advantage of such modernization is an increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the rods breaks off while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (the breakage of the jet thrust is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, not to hear this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “ate” small irregularities of the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and pits while driving.
Reinforced traction
If the car is operated in extreme conditions and drives mainly on dirt roads or on roads with very bad asphalt, the car owner can install enhanced jet thrust on it. As a rule, drivers make such traction themselves. But lately and large producers began to offer reinforced rods of their own production. For example, on sale you can find Track-Sport rods that differ large size silent blocks and an adjustable transverse bar. A pair of nuts on the transverse bar allows you to slightly change its length. This, in turn, affects the handling of the car and the overall stiffness of its suspension.
Of course, the driver will have to pay for the increased reliability: the cost of the Track-Sport set of rods starts at 2600 rubles.
Checking the condition of jet rods on the VAZ 2107
Before talking about testing jet thrust, let us ask ourselves a question: why is there a need for such a test at all? The fact is that when driving, the jet thrust is subjected to both lateral and twisting loads. Torsional loads occur when the wheels hit large potholes or run over large rocks or other obstacles. This type of load is especially harmful for the rods, or rather, for the silent blocks in the rods. It is the silent blocks that are weak point jet thrust (there is simply nothing to break in the thrust itself: it is a metal bar with two lugs at the ends). In addition, the rubber parts of the silent blocks are periodically exposed to reagents that are sprinkled on the roads during icy conditions. As a result, cracks appear on the rubber and its service life is rapidly reduced.
If you believe the operating instructions, then the new jet thrust on the VAZ 2107 can travel at least 100 thousand km. But taking into account the conditions listed above, the actual service life of the rods rarely exceeds 80 thousand km.
From the same instructions it follows that the condition of the jet rods must be checked every 20 thousand km. However, the masters in car services strongly recommend checking the traction every 10-15 thousand km in order to avoid extremely unpleasant surprises. To check the condition of the silent blocks in the rods, you will need an inspection hole and a mounting blade.
Check sequence
Video: checking jet rods on a VAZ 2107
Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107
Before starting work, let's decide on the necessary consumables and tools. Here's what we need:
- a set of new jet rods for the VAZ 2107;
- composition for removing rust WD-40;
- assembly blades;
- set of open-end wrenches;
- hammer.
Sequence of work
First of all, it should be said about two important points... Firstly, the rods should be changed only at the inspection pit or on the flyover. Secondly, all five rods from the VAZ 2107 are removed in exactly the same way. That is why the procedure for dismantling only one central boom will be described below. To remove the remaining four rods, you just need to repeat the steps listed below.
- The car is installed above the inspection pit. Silent blocks, lugs and nuts on the central rod are carefully treated with WD40 (as a rule, the lugs rust very badly, so after applying the liquid, you will have to wait 15–20 minutes for the compound to properly dissolve the rust).
- After the rust dissolves, the WD40 application area should be thoroughly wiped with a rag.
- Then, using a socket head with a ratchet, the nut on the silent block is unscrewed (it is best if it is a socket wrench with a ratchet wrench, since there is very little space next to the rod). With a second open-end wrench for 17, it is necessary to hold the head of the bolt so that it does not turn when unscrewing the nut.
- Once the nut is unscrewed, the retaining bolt is gently knocked out with a hammer.
- A similar procedure is carried out with the second silent block of the central rod. Once both mounting bolts have been removed from their lugs, the rod is manually removed from the brackets.
- All other rods from the VAZ 2107 are removed in the same way. But when removing the side rods, one caveat should be taken into account: after removing the fastening bolt, the upper edge of the wheel may fall out. As a result, the holes on the silent block and on the mounting bracket are displaced relative to each other, as shown in the figure below. And this creates serious problems when installing a new link: the fixing bolt cannot be inserted into the bracket.
- If such a situation has arisen, then the wheel will have to be lifted with a jack until the holes on the bracket and on the silent block of the new thrust are aligned. Sometimes, without this additional operation, it is simply impossible to install a new side draft.
Video: changing the jet for the VAZ 2107
Replacing the bushings on the rods of the VAZ 2107
VAZ 2107 jet thrust bushings are disposable products that cannot be repaired. It is not possible to restore a worn-out bushing in a garage. The average motorist has neither the necessary equipment nor the necessary skills to restore the inner surface of the bushing. Thus, the only option for repairing damaged traction bushings is to replace them with new ones. Here's what we need to replace the bushings on the rods:
- a device for pressing in bushings (can be purchased at any auto parts store);
- hammer;
- barbs with a diameter of 10 mm.
Sequencing
The rods are removed from the car according to the instructions above. Eyelets and silent blocks should be treated with WD40 liquid and thoroughly cleaned from dirt and rust using a metal brush.
- Usually, after removing the thrust, the bushing is removed from it freely. But this only happens if it is badly worn out and not very rusty. If the bushing is literally welded to the rod due to rust, you will have to knock it out with a hammer, after inserting a beard into it.
- If the rubber part of the silent block is badly damaged, then you will have to get rid of it too. These scraps of rubber can be simply pried out by prying them off with a screwdriver or an assembly trowel.
- Now the inner surface of the eyelet should be carefully cleaned with a sharp knife or sandpaper. There should be no rust or rubber residues on the eyelet.
- Now a new bushing is installed in the eyelet (and if the rubber was also removed, then a new silent block is installed). It is pressed into the eyelet using a special tool.
- If the press machine is not at hand, you can use the same beard. However, you will have to be very careful not to damage the inner surface of the bushing.
So, to replace jet rods with a VAZ 2107, the car owner does not have to drive the car to the nearest service center... All the work can be done with your own hands. Even a novice car enthusiast who has held a hammer and a wrench in his hands at least once can cope with this. All you need to do is follow the above recommendations exactly.
