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Pressing out old jet thrust bushings.
Having removed the first lever, we inspect the bushing, if it is very old, then it will be very difficult to extrude it, in this case, burning it out will help. To do this, light a fire and use fire to burn out the old sleeve, you can also do this with a gas burner. 
If you have a powerful grip you can try to squeeze it out.
Pressing in new bushings.
After the old bushings are pressed out, we proceed to pressing in the new ones; before that, you need to clean the inner part of the rod with a file. If you want your new rubber bands to last longer, I recommend installing polyurethane instead of rubber. 
Such silent blocks are much more durable than standard rubber ones. To press them in, you need a vise, or a pipe section of a suitable diameter and a bolt. 
This is how it all looks, before pressing the silent block, it is necessary to thoroughly lubricate it with soapy water in order to facilitate its installation. I recommend watching this car repair in the video below.
Also read other interesting articles about that on our website and join our Vkontakte group.
Jet thrust (rod) - element car suspension, limiting the movement of the front steering knuckle or rear axle, depending on the installation location. For durability under high loads, the jet thrust is mainly produced from cast resilient steel. But besides the steel base, this part has important element silent block (or eyelet).
Interesting! A silent block (from the English silent block) is a non-separable rubber-metal hinge, in which the metal outer and inner bushings are non-separable to each other using a layer of elastomer vulcanized between them, usually rubber. But collapsible rubber-metal hinges, in which the rubber sleeve is replaceable, are also simply called silent blocks.
Rubber-metal hinges (hereinafter RMSh) are attached to the rod base by welding. One of the reasons for the malfunction jet thrust is an the appearance of cracks at the place of welding. The second reason for the breakdown of jet rods is wear of the rubber bushing of the silent block which deforms over time and can break. Shouldn't be ruled out either corrosion of the base of the jet rod, especially you need to watch out for those made of pipes.
Important! A malfunction of the jet thrust can be seen by the knocking in the suspension during movement. If a knock appears, inspect the suspension for a malfunction as soon as possible.
How to replace jet thrust and what is needed for this
Place the machine in a suitable place to replace the jet rod. It is best to carry out the work on an overpass or in a pit.
Required tool
To remove the jet thrust, you will definitely need:
- a set of keys,
- brush for metal processing,
- WD-40 lubricating fluid.
Removal of jet rods
To remove the jet thrust, start on the looser side. First you need to clean the junction, then sprinkle with WD-40 grease and wait until it gets wet. Then you can unscrew the nut. If this does not work, you need to reapply the WD-40.
You can also use a longer wrench to make it easier to unscrew. Usually the bolt sticks hard in the bushing. Therefore, in order to move it from its place, you need to tighten the nut to the edge of the bolt and hit it with a hammer. You need to completely unscrew the nut and get the bolt. Then go to the other side.
When removing long longitudinal reaction rods, to gain access to the reaction rod bolt, you must unscrew the lower part of the shock absorber, remove the spacer sleeve and move the shock absorber to the side. Carry out the operation of cleaning the connection, as in the first case, and unscrew the nut. If you cannot remove the bolt, then you will not be able to hit it, because access is closed by a brake disc and a semiaxis. In this case, it is best to cut the bolt at the gap between the silent block and the bracket.
Attachment of new jet rods
It is necessary to install the rod first in the front bracket, and then in the rear one. Pre-lubricate the bolt with gear oil.
When inserting the torque rod into rear bracket usually the holes do not match. This is because, with a broken thrust, the bridge was constantly moving under the influence of loads.
To align the holes, use a spudger, rest it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the holes align. When the openings are level, insert the bolt and tighten the nut.
All work on replacing jet rods should be carried out alternately, replacing, for example, two long ones, and then short ones, or vice versa.
Replacing the bushings of the jet rods of the car
If, when examining the jet thrust, you see that it is not bent, not broken, the eyes are not broken, then it means you can simply replace the rubber bushings RMSh. To replace, you will need:
- buy a set of rubber and metal bushings,
- it is advisable to buy new fasteners (nuts and bolts),
- two spanner keys on "19",
- hammer,
- device for pressing out and pressing in bushings,
- vice (you can do without them)
Note!To lubricate the rubber bushings, it is necessary to use soapy water, because they are made of rubber, which is not resistant to oil and gasoline. Using oil for lubrication can shorten the life of the jet thrust.
What an untimely replacement can lead to
With strong wear of the silent block at high speed, you can lose control of the car, it will simply be driven from side to side. If the link breaks, the car will immediately lose stability, which could lead to an accident. Do not take matters to the extreme. As soon as you hear a knock in the suspension, notice a sharp increase in vibration when driving or unevenly worn tires - immediately inspect the jet rods. Also worth doing after every 50 km. mileage.
Did you know? That the creation of jet thrust was preceded by the work of automakers aimed at removing the influence of forces that can turn the car.
Today we will tell you about the nuances, tips and secrets that are used by the owners of VAZ classics when replacing jet rods, rubber bushings of the rear suspension rods. This entire article is based on both my personal experience and the experience of members of the forum. We have simply combined the main points on replacement and problems that you may have to face into one article and present it to you. Questions, if you still have them, you can ask on our forum in the appropriate topic in the "Chassis" section. So - diagnostics. What can make us climb into rear suspension? Extraneous knocks, strange behavior of the car, expressed in wobbling along the road. Carefully inspect the condition of the rubber bushings - they should not be frayed, torn, etc.
So I will say right away - replacing the bushings is not a 5-minute matter. In general, when replacing the bushings, I took turns unscrewing each rod and immediately after replacing it screwed into place, then removed the next one. If you remove everything at once, it may be difficult to install, since the bridge will move. Now I will describe the process itself - at first I knocked out the metal bushings, some, due to the high wear of the rubber bands, fell out into my hands themselves. Further, an elastic band - so as not to steam with its pressing out, I took a hacksaw for metal, took off the canvas, threaded it into the hole where the metal sleeve was, screwed it to the hacksaw and made two cuts, so that a small piece of the sleeve fell out by itself, and then the rest of it was pulled out by hand. It is more difficult with the installation ...
You can use a press machine like this:
And you can go the other way. Initially, the rubber sleeve is lubricated with soapy water, so that it "slips through" and then: the first method is pressed in a BIG vice, sometimes not the first time, but it is pressed in, it is useless to press it in with your hands or with a hammer. And if there is no vice, I used the weight of the car and the domkarat, that is, I put down the thrust, put the bushing soaked in a solution to it, then I put the jack on them on top and lift the car for them. The machine presses the rubber bush into the rod with its weight. We do the same manipulations with metal bushings.
Returning to the issue of devices for pressing in bushings, the ball from the bearing with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the bushing is very convenient, we put the ball on the bushing and press it in a large vise, the ball gently pushes the rubber band apart and all pressing is done quickly and without any effort. I pushed it all the way, pushed the vice apart, substituted something wider in diameter than the bearing, I used the extended pasatizhi, pushed and shit the ball is ready for new tests.
When disassembling (unscrewing) the rods, there are cases when the bolt has rusted to the metal bushing, and it is impossible to get it out of there ... If you knock it out, then you have to scatter the floor of the bridge there. There is only one way out -
grinder. Cut exactly along the sleeve. First, cut from the side of the nut, gradually turning the bolt, since the grinder will not be able to cut off the entire bolt in one go, then cut from the side of the cap, also turning the bolt by the cap. For the convenience of work, cut off the bar itself so that it does not interfere.
If your penny, six or seven when starting off, driving on an uneven road, a knock appeared in the area of the rear axle and with it the rear axle of the car lost stability, then it is time to check the condition and, if necessary, replace, rear rod bushings (jet rods)... Of course, you can go the easier way. And replace jet thrust entirely. But this path, though easy, is not cheap. You can compare the price of the repair kit (metal and rubber bushings) of the reaction rods yourself and the price of the complete set of reaction rods. I think you will notice the difference. And why pay more if there is no need for it? If jet thrust normal (not broken, not bent, eyelets are not broken), which means you can simply replace the rubber bushings. Yes, and if you figure it out, it will not be difficult for you to do it. All that is required of you is the desire to do the job yourself and prepare the tools and accessories that are necessary for the job.
First of all, about spare parts. You can buy immediately set of rubber and metal bushings... Standard set rubber bushings on cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-21011, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 consists of 10 pieces, four large and six small. But you can advise, buy a kit rubber bushings on VAZ-2121 (Niva), in this set, all bushings are equally large. Pressing them in is not much more difficult, but they withstand the load better than standard ones. Also, be sure to buy a set (10 pieces) of metal bushings (the old ones are often heavily worn out) - four large and six small. What rubber and metal bushings look like (pay attention to the color of the metal bushings, we buy this color) look at photo No. 2. New fasteners (bolts and nuts), of course, are also better to buy (especially if no one has been dealing with jet rods for a long time ), but here at your discretion or at the discretion of your wallet. Plus, you should buy a set rubber bushings for rear shock absorbers.
As for the instrument…. Here it will be necessary to have at least: two spanner wrenches for "19", a hammer, a metal rod (useful for knocking out the bolts when removing the rods). But you will have to think about devices for pressing out and pressing in bushings in advance (since work without them will be much more complicated). You can make them yourself (take a bolt of the corresponding diameter, screw on a nut and grind it to the size of the outer diameter of a metal sleeve) and buy (or order a turner) a ready-made tool (see photo # 3 for how it looks). Also, the presence of a vice will greatly facilitate the work.
1. Unscrew the nuts and take out (or knock out) the fastening bolts (photo # 1). We remove the cravings.
2. If from one end of the rod the metal sleeve can fall out by itself (photo no. 4), then from the other end, the sleeve will have to be knocked out with our pre-prepared device. (Photo # 5). And, for example, use a screwdriver to pick out the rubber bushing (photo # 6).
3. With a knife we clean the inner part of the traction eye (photo # 7).
4. Using a vice, press in rubber grommet in the rod after lubricating it and the traction eye soapy water (photo # 8). Exactly soapy water and never using oil, since the bushings are NOT made of oil-resistant rubber. And by lubricating them with oil, you will shorten their life.
5. After that, using the "special tool", press in metal sleeve, having also lubricated it with soapy water, look at photos # 9 and # 10. In the absence of a "special tool", metal sleeve as well as rubber, can be pressed in a vice.
And that's it! We carry out the same procedure with others. rear rods ... When installing jet rods per vehicle, fastening bolts, it is better to lubricate, for example, with nigrol. Otherwise, the next repair of jet rods will turn into an exam in the skill of owning a grinder!))
UPD 01/05/2016
I ask you to love and favor - SEVI-Extreme jet rods (rods) bushings for cars Vaz-2101, Vaz-2102, Vaz-2104, Vaz-2105, Vaz-2106, Vaz-2107 manufactured by SEVI. I am not afraid of loud words and I will say that these sleeves, the best of all possible options tie rod bushings for Classics... I can say so confidently, because as soon as these bushings appeared on the car market, I bought them and immediately installed them on my penny. You can call it a pioneer experiment. In the photos below you can see in which packaging they were sold at first (originally the sleeves were called SEVY-Spike) and in which box these bushings can be found today. Plus, a photo of the kit. And to say that I was surprised by the result of the experiment would not be correct. It will be right - I was shocked! Yes, I had to tinker with the insertion of the bushings, but the result was simply amazing. The comfort that appeared in the rear axle of the car is difficult to convey in words. The rear of the vehicle has become more solid and stable. The amount of noise transmitted from the car's suspension to the body has been significantly reduced. Plus, you can add to this the high wear resistance of these bushings - for example, on my car they worked steadily almost 30,000 km of run... And none of the bushings were out of order. How long they still served I cannot say for sure, since the car was sold.
After the tests, the turn of customers came in their car. True, not everyone agreed for the installation of rubber-metal bushings for jet rods SEVI-Extreme. Since the price of a set of these bushings upset even the most fanatical motorist, who doted on his iron friend and never spared money on him Maintenance and repair. To make it clearer: the price of a set of these super bushings was (and is) equated to the price of a complete set of jet rods made in China... Or -60% of the cost factory jet rods (rods) of Balakovo production... There is something to think about ...
But, despite the price issue, I have already managed to install these hubs on about a dozen cars. All car owners are happy and do not regret spent banknotes.
Therefore, I recommend you too! Nothing complicated about installation of jet thrust bushings SEVI-Extreme no... Everything is the same as with standard bushings. But, there are small features: the eyes of the jet rods of your car must be in good condition- not broken or destroyed by rust. Before pressing in the bushings, the eyelets of the rods (rods) should be thoroughly cleaned. And only after that you can start installing. Locksmith's vice must be mandatory! We treat the eyelet and bushing with soapy water. And slowly we begin to press in.
This is how it was:
It became:
Difficult, as I said, there is nothing. The main thing is that the lugs are cleaned and do not fall apart from rust in the hands. And the result should please you. I will be glad if in the comments you share your impressions or your opinion about SEVI-Extreme bushings.
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