Jack of all trades: rear window heating repair. Rear window heating restoration Automotive rear window heating

Heating system rear window Vehicle - common equipment for almost every modern car... The purpose of this functional addition is to remove ice crust or perspiration from glass in winter. If the heated rear window does not work, visibility deteriorates, and the driver loses the ability to rationally assess the circumstances on the roadway behind his own car. Safe driving can be restored as soon as possible.

Heating system device

To understand how to restore the heated rear window, it is worthwhile to first study the principle of operation of this system. Its purpose is to eliminate fogging and prevent dry air in the passenger compartment. In winter, this function is indispensable, since the icing evenly leaves the glass and at the moment when you already need to go, the view is 100% free.

The principle of operation of such a system in the case of a windshield is the effectiveness of directed air heat flows.

When it comes to the rear window, compact heating elements come into operation, the source of which is the electrical network. Metal tracks are fixed to the glass surface from the side of the passenger compartment. These are numerous thinnest tapes through which electricity passes, activating the process of heat release. As a result, due to the heating of the glass, water evaporates and the surface becomes transparent after a couple of minutes.

Scheme of work

To know how to restore the heated rear window of a car and to approach the repair with a high level of professionalism, study the principle of operation and electrical circuit connecting wires. From the + terminal of the battery, power is directed to the ignition switch, then to the fuses and last of all to the controller. After such a path, it follows to the power contact of the relay. The vehicle body is connected to the negative terminal of the battery. Activation of the heater supplies voltage to the relay winding, then the power contacts are closed, and the relay outputs are also connected. The current flows through parallel-connected heater strips, then enters the negative terminal through the machine body.

Remember, activation of the heater is only possible when the ignition key is activated.

In some cases, a running motor acts as a factor conducive to activation. This feature is due to the fact that the battery should not be discharged prematurely, and given the characteristics of each car brand, the consumption of this system can be 10-25 A.

Sources of the problem

Since many drivers prefer to restore the rear window heating with their own hands, you need to know about the repair options, taking into account the source of the problem. V self-check functional units of the car will not be obstacles if you have minimal skills in car repair.

The safety element is the first thing that should get your attention when a breakdown is detected, since the system will not work if it is burned out. The localization of this element varies depending on the model of the car, so at this stage you will have to turn to the vehicle service book for help. Next, remove the fuse and make sure it works. The repair of the heated rear window will be limited to replacing the burnt-out element.

A breakdown of the system relay can also lead to a stoppage of heating. In such a situation, installing a fresh element will also be sufficient.

Wiring

If replacing the fuse does not correct the situation, go to the power supply wiring diagnostics. A burnout, breakage of an attachment or a fracture helps to stop the flow of current to the heating poles. To detect this circumstance, turn on the heating button and measure the voltage of the terminals with a tester. The terminals can be found at the bottom of the glass or on its sides. The lack of voltage on the wires should alert you.

Examine the entire path of the wiring for integrity, strip the contacts of the terminals and connections. Oxidation in these areas often leads to a blockage of the voltage supply. If you could not cope with this task on your own, an auto electrician will help you.

If the heating tapes are damaged, it may also be necessary to restore the heated rear window. To know how to do this, you must first study the specifics of the workflow in this zone. The heating element receives voltage and then the energy follows the threads. In relation to the base, they are connected in parallel and act as conductors of currents. Their heating is due to a certain amount of resistance, despite the insignificant heating temperature, this is sufficient for its purpose. If one or several threads are damaged, the current does not flow through them, therefore, these areas do not warm up. The features of repair work in such a situation are described a little below.

Governing bodies

If all the elements that you checked earlier are working properly, you should pay attention to the power button. You can determine the operation of the system by the illuminated indicator light, which makes itself felt after pressing the button. If everything is activated and the corresponding indicators have made themselves felt, but the glass is not heated, wear or burning of the working contacts of the toggle switch is likely, so the energy is not supplied. Repairing a heated rear window of a car requires only replacing a button.

Imported cars

In the case of imported cars, repairing the rear window heating with your own hands will not be limited to diagnostics of the standard heating system, since the rear-view mirrors are also equipped with heating. Activation of the heating of the stern glass leads to a parallel activation of the heating of the mirrors. If the system does not work on both zones, it is most likely that you are dealing with the reason discussed in the first paragraph - a fuse or relay.

It is important to determine which fuses are associated with the glass, because there are several of them. It will not be superfluous to diagnose the electronic board, which often wears out due to unsoldering contacts and breaking tracks.

Phased repair

It is of paramount importance to carry out diagnostics and purchase a repair kit. There can be several options for a repair kit, and the repair technology in each of the cases is considered below.

In addition to visual diagnostics of the state of the threads, there are several more methods that are more reliable and effective:

Visual diagnostics requires activating the heater when the rear window is fogged up. Where the threads are broken, the surface will warm up almost instantly, while in other areas visibility will be problematic.
Using a voltmeter requires activating the ignition and then turning on the heating system. One probe should lie on the vehicle ground, and the other near the center of the heating tape. First, wrap the second probe with foil. The break will be localized in the zone where the voltage rises to 12 V or drops to zero. Ideally, this parameter should not exceed 5 V.
The second way to use a voltmeter involves fixing one probe to the positive terminal of the heater, and the second must be moved along the negative terminal strip. Troubled place will be where the voltage will be zero.
Using an ohmmeter requires activating the kilo mode. The device must be analog, with an arrow. The probes should be positioned near the system leads, which are on opposite sides of each other. Use distilled water to wet the cotton wool, which must be smoothly passed along the tape. As soon as the arrow of the device twitches, you will be able to detect the cliff zone.

Repair with conductive adhesive

The rear window heating filaments can be repaired with conductive adhesive. It is designed for temperature regime from -60 to +100 degrees. You should not choose kits with glue, the cost of which is 150-200 rubles. Often they do not last long or they may not be effective at all. A cost of 300-400 rubles will be optimal for such a set.

Work order:

Study the instructions supplied with the kit. You should have a clear idea of the options for applying the composition and the speed of its full drying.
Prepare the problem surface. Dampen a cloth with alcohol and wipe the area.
Lightly sand the edges in the break area with zero emery paper. It is enough to simply remove plaque and carbon deposits in two strokes.
Use scotch tape to glue the strips along the thickness of the sides. It should not overlap the thread, but also avoid leaving a long distance from the tape. Focus specifically on the width of the thread.
Proceed with applying conductive adhesive to the prepared area using a brush or syringe. The instructions will tell you how many layers you need to apply. The overlap on the working areas of the belt should be 1 cm to the left and right.
Dispose of the tape and wait until the composition is completely dry. This will not happen before a day.
Check the functionality of the system after drying.

Among the popular and reliable manufacturers of a repair kit, which includes threads, it is worth highlighting Quick and Permatex. Such options are suitable for repairing even large areas, even if we are talking about 10 cm. The complete set assumes the presence of heating tapes, polymer resin in the form of a spray can and stencils.

Heater repair is reduced to the following steps:

determine the break zone and prepare a thread of the appropriate size;
remove the protective film and use resin to fix the thread in the desired area;
after complete drying, repeat the manipulations and check the result after 2 days.

Alternative method

Alternative methods are also suitable for restoring threads. The difference between them lies only in the material used:

Shavings combined with paint. The first material can be obtained from a bar of copper and brass, which must be filed. Choose a paint that matches the shade of the heating tapes. Mix the ingredients in equal proportions until you achieve a soft dough consistency. Use tape or tape to create a stencil. Stick on the stencil and activate the heating. Contact can be determined by the characteristic hiss. Stencil the mixture. This method eliminates the need to wait a day. You can operate a car immediately after the performed manipulations.
Soldering of the break point is carried out using zinc chloride. Give preference to solder with a minimum tin content - POSS-4-6 or POS-18. A copper or silver core is suitable for repairing a large section of tape.

Maybe you will be surprised by the topic of today's article, because it is summer outside, and the weather is replete with sunny hot days. But this function is relevant at any time of the year. Let's talk about heated rear window. For those who think that this is absolutely unnecessary in the summer, let's say that you probably don't travel much by car during the rains.

But here's the bad luck, Mr. Murphy comes into play with his notorious "laws of meanness." It is raining outside, and the heating of the glass has stopped working, and the humidity in the cabin is increasing, and the visibility is decreasing. An urgent need to repair the heating of the rear window of the car. The reasons for such unexpected trouble can be a variety of actions, starting with the unprofessionalism of the service workers of the tinting studio, ending with the pranks of the kids in the passenger seat.

Rear window defroster: how does it work?

Heated car rear window perfectly copes with the problem of fogging and does not dry out the air in the cabin. When it comes to defrosting glass in winter, the advantages are obvious. Car glass evenly gets rid of icing by the time it needs to be pulled out. The air from the heater has just started to warm up, and the rear window is already clean, dry and transparent.

Rear window defroster: what is it and what is it for?

The most effective anti-fogging of car windows is heating. How does the heated rear window work? Heating windshield carried out due to directed warm air flows. The rear window is heated by small heating elements powered by electrical energy. On the inside of the glass itself (from the interior), metal tracks with high resistance are attached in the form of multiple thin ribbons. When passes through them Electric Energy, heat is generated. As a result, the glass heats up and the water evaporates. After a few minutes, the glass becomes transparent again.

In order to successfully diagnose malfunctions and repair the heating of the rear window of the car as professionally as possible, it is necessary to study the electrical circuit for connecting the heating elements and understand its working principle.

The image shows a typical wiring diagram for heating a car. Let's take a look at how it works together. Power is supplied from the "+" terminal battery, passes through the ignition switch, fuses and is fed to the heater controller and the power contact of the relay. The battery terminal with the "-" sign is connected to the car body, as well as one of the terminals of the heating device.

When the heater is turned on, the voltage goes to the relay coil, which is triggered, the power contacts are closed and the relay terminals 30 and 87 are interconnected. The current goes to the heater, flowing through the parallel-connected threads, and then through the car body again goes to the minus of the battery.

What can be malfunctions

Basically, car owners do not bother with what and how in this rear window heating device until it fogs up or is covered with an ice crust. Here, with the usual movement, the button for turning on the heating power is pressed, five minutes, ten, fifteen minutes pass, but there is no result: the glass has not become more transparent at all, well, or the review has appeared only in some part. Here, no measuring instruments are required to understand that the car's rear window heater needs to be repaired.

Please note that the heater is turned on only when the ignition key is turned to the "ON" position. In other vehicles, the heater only comes on when the engine is running. This is to avoid premature discharge of the battery. Depending on the car model, the rear window heater can consume from 10 A to 25 A of electric current. For you to understand, two car lights consume 10 A.

Heated rear window does not turn on

If the light on the heating button does not light up in the active state, most likely the button itself is faulty or the fuse has blown. If the light is on, but the threads do not heat up, then the reason lies either in the relay or in the connectors for connecting the device to the on-board wiring. If this is the case, then according to the automotive documentation, it is necessary to determine the place where these parts are located and replace the non-working element. It is not always possible to quickly find the mounting location for the relay, but there is one way to check its performance indirectly. We will talk about this a little later.

Rear window is slowly sweating

Sometimes it happens that after the heater is brought into a state of activity, the glass begins to sweat, but very slowly. If the weather is frosty outside, then the reason may lie in insufficient contact of one of the connectors of the electrical circuit. As a result, the contact resistance increases, the current flows with less force, the power decreases, and the filaments warm up more slowly.

To check this malfunction, you need to take a multimeter and measure the voltage at the input terminals of the heater and the battery. The difference in results should not exceed one volt.

Horizontal misting stripes remain on the rear window

And, perhaps, the most common malfunction of the rear window heating system of a car is the breakage of threads attached to the glass itself. This malfunction is visible with unarmed gas, since in the place of the defective element the glass is either fogged up or not thawed (depending on the season).

Tracks carrying current are easily destroyed even with slight mechanical stress. Therefore, you cannot clean the glass with a scraper, only a soft cloth. Also, if you sometimes carry long or bulky goods, then they should not rest against the rear window.

Diagnostics and repair

Determining a damaged heater filament is not difficult, as you already understood. Therefore, before you fix the rear window heating, you need to count all the threads from top to bottom and remember which ones are faulty. So on visual inspection it will be easier to find the right thread. But the breaks are sometimes just microscopic. A voltmeter or multimeter will help here. To quickly find the problematic thread, you need to study the rear window heater device.

Ways to find a problem thread

If visual signs of a break are not observed, for example, if a break happened at the terminals, then you can resort to the good old folk methods. It is remarkable that every motorist, with the slightest effort and expense, is able to find the place where the heater threads are broken.

Visual diagnostics. If the rear window is fogged up, turn on the heater. In the place where the threads are broken, it begins to sweat almost immediately, when the rest of the area of the damaged element does not warm up.

Using a voltmeter - the first way. Switch on the ignition and then the heated rear window. Put one probe of the device on the weight of the car, wrap the other with foil and move to the center of the heating thread. The voltage should be no more than 5 V. Where it drops to zero or rises to twelve, there is a break.

Using a voltmeter - the second way. Attach one probe to the positive terminal of the heating element, and move the other along the thread from the side of the negative terminal. In a place where the voltage drops to zero, repair of the heated rear window is required.

With an ohmmeter. Better to take an analog device with an arrow. Turn it into kilo mode. Attach the probes to the opposite terminals of the system. Soak cotton wool in distilled water and slowly run it along the thread. In the place where the arrow of the device twitches, and there is a break.

That's it, the diagnostics have been carried out. Now, inspired by your successes, you can take on the repair of the rear window heating with your own hands.

We carry out repairs

There are many options for repairing a rear window defroster. The same can be said for the materials used and the techniques used. In any case, you are free to choose the method of repair work. It is necessary to remember only one thing, in any case, the connecting places of the heating system must always be cleaned and degreased if soldering is required.

1. How to fix a heated rear window using a repair kit? Many car rear window defogger repair kits have similar specifications. With their help, it is possible to restore up to ten centimeters of a damaged heating filament. The repair kit includes: templates with threads and a thermally active polymer resin cylinder.

Locate the thread breakage and turn off the heater. Remove the protective film from the template and attach the thread to the torn area. Using a brush, apply the resin to the area to be repaired. When dry, repeat a few more times. Remove the stencil from the glass and do not run heating for 24 hours.

2. How to repair a rear window defroster with conductive paste? It is applied to where the threads are broken. At the same time, grab the dangling ends on both sides, 2 cm each. The paste should dry for 24 hours. You can use a building hairdryer and speed up the drying process.

3. Restoration of rear window heating tracks using folk methods. In principle, they themselves do not differ from each other, only there is a difference in the materials used.

Paint and shavings. The shavings are extracted using a file and a copper-brass block. It is better to take the paint to match the color of the heating filaments. Mix the ingredients in a 1: 1 ratio until soft dough. Make a stencil using duct tape or duct tape. Turn on the heating and apply the mixture according to the stencil. You will hear about the presence of contact at the place of repair by a characteristic slight hiss. All is ready. You can go right away and not wait a day.

Glue and shavings. Here, instead of paint, BF-2 glue is used, as an option.

Soldering the break. Here you need to use zinc chloride. Solder should be taken with a low tin content, such as POS-18, POSS-4-6. If a long section of the heating wire is damaged, a silver or copper wire can be used.

Now you should have enough options for how to restore the car's rear window defroster yourself. As you already understood, this will not cause much difficulty, and you do not need to spend a lot on materials.

In cold weather or just in rainy weather, when you turn on the heated rear window, you may find that it simply does not work - either completely, the fogging does not go away, or one or more threads do not heat. Thus, the view from the rear window is reduced - which can negatively affect driving safety! It needs to be restored. BUT how, what to do? It turns out everything is quite simple, we read ...

Actually, the reason is well known to everyone, on our VAZ, these threads are constantly "burning", and rolled with 1 - 2 - 3 threads that did not heat, terribly inconvenient! But now it turns out that there are tools and repair kits for a long time that allow you to restore the whole thing, and quite effectively.

How does the heated rear window work?

It's just that wires with a voltage of 12 volts fit the rear window. There are special tracks on the sides on the surface, into which these wires are embedded. The tracks run vertically upward, so to speak, the "main bus", there are only two of them on the right and left, at the extreme points.

And now from them go, thin (2 - 3 mm), horizontal stripes that heat the glass itself, clearing it from fogging, or from snow in winter. It is they who are the main working element of the entire structure.

Usually there are several dozen of them, about 20 - 40 in the working area, it all depends on the class of the car and the size of its rear window.

Of course, any electrical device is controlled by a fuse that is designed for a certain voltage and amperage.

What is the reason not working?

Actually, there are only two main reasons, and both of them lie in the power system:

Fuse. YES it can really burn out. This happens due to various reasons, maybe not a big closure banally and that's it. Thus, the heating will not work completely for you. Need to find . This is the first and required step.

If it is intact, then we need to check the voltage on the wires that fit the main "tires" (side wide stripes). They usually have regular metal contacts. We just take a multimeter and measure it, if there is a voltage and it is about 12 Volts, then the power is suitable here, everything is in order.
Sami thin lines... To be honest, they cannot all burn out at once. As a rule, from one to three, well, a maximum of four "threads" burn out. Therefore, if you have part of the window moving away (from fogging or ice), and part of it is not. It is necessary to look at the non-working threads.

Examine this thin strip and you will see the drop point. This will be a burnt-out part, there may be a little black color near it (although the thread is initially brown). Also, the thread will, as it were, open, this place needs to be connected in order to restore working capacity.

On my own I want to add, the fuse rarely burns, basically it is a breakage of the glass "threads" and they need to be restored.

DIY heating repair

I remember the distant days when it was practically not real! Now what technology has come to - you can buy a rear window repair kit, specifically to restore these narrow strips. I suspect that there is some kind of metallized composition, or paint - but it is called conductive glue.

Such glue can withstand temperatures from - 60 to + 100 degrees Celsius. This is what we need to buy. The only thing I want to tell you - do not take the cheapest composition, now in my opinion it is about 150 - 200 rubles, take a little more expensive about 300 - 400 rubles, such compositions work much longer.

Now the actual instructions for recovery:

To begin with, you need a little, I repeat a little - to clean the edges of the strip at the break points. It is necessary to remove carbon deposits and other deposits that form on the glass. For this, sandpaper "zero" is ideal, just a couple of movements and you're done.
Wipe with alcohol, remove all plaque.
Now we take the scotch tape, and glue the strips on the sides, in its thickness. The scotch tape should not cover the strip, but it should not move away from it for a large distance precisely along the width of the thread, so that there are no gaps.
Then we take our composition, "conductive glue". He either has a syringe or a special brush. We begin to paint over the place that we have prepared. How many layers to apply will be written in the instructions. So it is worth noting that you need to go to the working areas of the strip 1 centimeter to the right and left.

Now we need the composition to dry. Take off the tape and wait. Usually about 24 hours is sufficient. BUT NOT BEFORE! After that, we turn on and check the performance, everything should work.

That's all, such a simple instruction. Now we are watching the video version.

It began to get colder outside and in the morning more and more often the first thing to do is to press the rear window heating button. But the HORROR, you turn on the heating and find that not all the threads are heating. What to do? Replacing glass is not a cheap pleasure, it remains to repair on your own. Generally Recommended Repair Methods

the heating threads of the rear window, according to those who have tried it, leave much to be desired - the ineffectiveness of inexpensive conductive adhesives, and the high price of proprietary mixtures.

And in the vastness of the network I met an interesting repair technology, the reviews of those who tried it were more than enthusiastic:

Description of the technology.

Of the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and construction), and sulfuric acid - an electrolyte from a battery is quite suitable. From the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass.

Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long. At the end of the bar, wind a strip of fabric halfway up its width - you should get something like a brush. Above, you need to put a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

Electrolyte preparation - not to be confused with akka electrolyte - it is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulfate are poured into half a glass of water, and stirred until dissolved. Not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention. In the resulting solution, you need to add 0.2-0.3% percent of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.

Well, the process itself. Both terminals of the glass are connected to the “mass” (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it, nothing needs to be done), and the “plus” of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag.

We moisten the positive electrode in the solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes. A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, with large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an unheated soldering iron and a jumper from a thin wire should be soldered.

There is no need to limit the current because after a few seconds, the anode is passivated and limits the flow
current. It should not be forgotten that the solution contains sulfuric acid - this concentration is not dangerous for the skin, but
on clothes in a week - two holes appear (Therefore, I do not advise carrying out the process without removing the glass, although this is quite possible.

A couple more ways ... ...

1st way:

- on the fogged glass, turn on the heating and in the place of the break the glass quickly sweats with a stain, while the whole thread with the break does not sweat.

2nd way:

- to detect a break in the rear window defroster wire, turn on the ignition and turn on the rear window defroster.
- connect one probe of the voltmeter to the mass of the car, and wrap the second probe with foil and move the foil along the heater conductor.
- Connect the voltmeter probe in the center of each wire of the rear window defogger. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of about 5 V, then the heater conductor is working properly. If the voltmeter shows a voltage of 0 V or 12 V, then there is a break in the heater conductor.

- to locate the break in the heater conductor, connect one probe of the voltmeter to the positive terminal of the heater, and move the second probe along the conductor of the heater from the side of the negative terminal of the heater. The point at which the voltage indicated by the voltmeter will drop from a few volts to zero is where the heater conductor breaks.

3rd way:

- ohmmeter, in kilo mode, or better than mego. One probe clings to one terminal of the heater, the second probe to the other terminal of the heater. Take a piece of cotton wool soaked in distilled water and lead it along the strings of the heater, follow the kilo readings, the megohmmeter at the break point, the arrow jerks.
- it is better to use an analog ohmmeter (with an arrow).
- works if there is a break in one place ...

Directly repair threads:

In all the methods listed below, you must first clean the conductive strip from varnish (better - with a bent steel wire, a paper clip) until a metallic sheen appears and degrease.
1st method (conductive paste):

- the broken conductor of the rear window defroster can be restored using conductive paste.
- before starting the repair, turn off the heated rear window and allow time for the glass to cool.
- being careful, clean the heater conductor and rinse it with alcohol.
- use adhesive tape to mark the area to be repaired.
- Apply electrically conductive paste approximately 20 mm from each end of the damaged conductor.
- After drying the electrically conductive paste, the rear window defroster can be used for 24 hours.

It can be dried at a high temperature, then the heating can be used earlier.
2nd method (electrolytic coating):

- from the reagents, copper sulfate is needed - better known as copper sulfate (used in plant growing and
construction), and sulfuric acid - the electrolyte from the battery is quite suitable.

- from the tool - a piece of copper (preferably copper - not brass. Several pieces of copper wire folded into a bunch are quite suitable) of a tube or a wire with a diameter of 6-10 mm and a strip of fabric 20-30 mm wide and about half a meter long.

- at the end of the thread, wind a strip of fabric on half of its width - you should get something like a brush.

Above need to put on a bandage of thread so that the fabric does not unwind.

- preparation of the electrolyte - not to be confused with the electrolyte of the accumulator - is also not difficult. A couple of teaspoons of copper sulphate is poured into half a glass of water, and mixed until dissolved, not completely dissolved - not scary, do not pay attention.

In the obtained p-p, add 0.2-0.3% of the percentage of concentrated sulfuric acid or 0.5-1% of the electrolyte for the battery - this is about half a teaspoon of electrolyte for these half a glass.
- the actual process.

Both terminals of the glass are connected to the "mass" (if the glass is installed in the car and at least one heating thread is intact on it - nothing needs to be done), and the "plus" of the battery is connected to the tube with a rag. We moisten the positive electrode in solution and start actively and continuously rubbing the thread break for 3-5 minutes.

A current passes through the solution, which transfers copper ions from the electrode to the heating filament. With a slight damage to the thread, the gap is completely tightened with copper, for large gaps, the copper-plated areas should be irradiated with an undisturbed soldering iron and soldered from a thin wire.

There is no need to limit the current, because after a few seconds the anode is passivated and limits the flowing current. Do not forget that the solution contains sulfuric acid!

3rd method (paint with shavings):
- take a copper-brass bead (graphite is also suitable) and with a small file began to make a line.
- paint (you can red, to match the color of the threads) is mixed with the stitch, the proportion is about 50/50. You should get a dough mixture.
- heating is turned on and paint is applied to the thread, first making a clip from electrical tape or scotch tape. V
During the process of applying paint, a hiss appeared from the place of contact, then it disappeared, but the thread was hot.
- done. Literally in a minute, the composition freezes.

4th method (magnet and glue):
- prepare very small iron filings, a small magnet (from the speaker) and transparent glue (such as BF-2) or nitrolac.
- attach a magnet from the outside above the break, then sprinkle sawdust on the side of the conductor, gently moving the magnet to achieve electrical contact at the break (this will be noticeable by the heating of the strip - unless, of course, the break is in one place, otherwise a larger number of magnets will be needed).
- Apply a drop of glue to the sawdust with a small white brush and let the glue (varnish) dry.
- then remove the magnet and use a blade to remove excess sawdust. You can reapply one more layer of glue (varnish).
- enough for several years.

5th method (special adhesives):
- special adhesives for restoring heating threads, there are also Russian production
- the reviews are contradictory, some like it, some don't
- instructions for use are attached to the glue
- it is recommended to add a little iodine to the glue. In this case, the glue turns out to be red and matches the color of the rest of the threads.

6th method (soldering):
- Damage sites can be soldered with POS-18 or POSS-4-6 soft low-tin solder using zinc chloride as a flux. If a long section is damaged, it is better to solder a thin copper or silver vein from the wire.

7th method (sawdust and glue):
- silver sawdust (for example, an alloy cut off with a file from the contact of an unusable power relay) must be poured into the fold of a sheet of paper, and a drop of nitro glue must be added there. Quickly roll up a cylinder 2 ... 3 long and 1 mm in diameter with the tip of a knife and place it on the damaged site. Then - crush to squeeze the sawdust tightly, and remove excess.

To implement this idea, I used the second method - electrolytic coating.
Here was the gap:

it was visible to the naked eye, but just in case, I called this place with a tester ... Then I made a device with which copper ions will be applied:

it is done very simply ... he took 3 copper conductors from a copper wire of 2.5 mm cross-section, soldered them together, put a heat-shrink tube on them, cleaned the copper, wound a rag about 3 cm wide, fixed it all with ties ....

on the other hand, I soldered a plug-in contact so that you can connect this device instead of heating. Then copper sulphate began to play, fortunately, there were old stocks and took a little acid from the battery with a syringe .... (Copper sulphate can be bought at a store where fertilizers are sold).

Then everything was according to the instructions .... Put the electrode into the glass, disconnected the positive wire from heating the glass, connected a homemade electrode to it, turned on the ignition and the heating button - thus "+" appeared on the electrode ...

There is a "-" sign on the heating strips. I just walked around the place where there was a gap and saw how a coating of copper was formed ... I note that this method is most effective for small scratches ... For reliability, I also soldered this place, since after such a copper plating procedure everything is soldered with a bang!
In the end, everything worked out and everything works!

While creating passenger car the designers pay great attention to the glazing of the machine. In construction vehicle glasses play an important role. They protect the driver and passengers from wind, dust and dirt. Serve as a soundproof barrier that allows people in the cabin to talk without stress.

Visibility from the passenger compartment and the driver's ability to control correctly depends on their shape. traffic situation... For this, various modifications are made to the windows, including heated rear window.

The system to help clear the rear window from ice, snow or fogging is not very complex structurally. The electrical diagram can be broadly depicted as follows:

C - generator.
E230 - OZS system switch.
J519 - Onboard power supply control unit.
Z1 - heating element of the OZS system.

Although on different models cars and there may be some differences, however, if we consider it in detail, then, in principle, it includes the following main elements.

Mounting block.
Ignition switch.
ZS heating switch.
Control lamp signaling the inclusion of the OZS.
Heating element of the OZS system.

K6 - additional relay.
K7 - relay for switching on the OZS.
A - connection to power systems.

In addition, the system contains fuses, terminals and wires that connect all the elements into a single whole.

When the ignition key is turned, the OZS is turned on by pressing a button, to which power is supplied through an additional K6 relay. At the same time, the rear window heating relay K7 is activated, the heating element is connected and at the same time the control lamp comes on.

The design of the heating element on the rear window can also be different. In the standard version, it is a mesh of thin metallic nickel threads that are connected by two conductive busbars located on opposite sides. On the one hand, a current of 12V is supplied to the bus, on the other, the bus is shorted to ground. Such devices are attached to the glass with a special glue.

On some car models, the heating element is applied to the glass using a coating, for example, aluminum. On top of such spraying, a thin film with good light transmission is attached using a conductive glue.

Identification of malfunctions in the OZS system

Having found signs that the rear window heating is not working, you need to carefully check the entire electrical circuit of the vehicle's NEO system.

The first thing to check is that the fuses are working properly. So, for example, on the VAZ-2110 these are rear window heating fuses F4 and F7, which are located in mounting block... Their malfunction may occur due to a factory defect, short circuit or voltage surge in on-board network... It is necessary to replace the defective fuse, for which it must be removed from the mounting block.

Next, you need to check the terminal connections in the OZS system. When operating a vehicle, all equipment is affected by strong vibrations... As a result, the contacts may be damaged, or a terminal may become disconnected or weakened.

A check of the heated rear window relay is also required. Breakdown of the relay is possible when a wire breaks in the working coil of this part or due to burning of the contacts, due to a factory defect or short circuit. To check it, the relay must be removed and checked with a tester. In the event of a malfunction of this part, you need to replace it with a workable part.

It is also necessary to check the contact of the heated rear window. A conductive element is attached to the rear window with glue, which is a contact to which an electric current is supplied through the wiring, which is transmitted through this contact to the heating threads.

In this place, a break in the wiring is possible or due to the fact that the glue was of poor quality, the contact element peels off from the glass.

Quite often, a breakage or damage to the threads in the heating element on the rear window leads to failure of the ES heating. This is detected by visual inspection or instrumental analysis. Visually, only a clear damage to the thread can be detected by establishing a gap between the damaged ends.

It is possible that for some repair work a mechanical damage to the glass surface was inflicted on the car, on which a heating element was attached with glue.

However, the main tool in diagnosing this malfunction is a voltmeter or ohmmeter.

They make it possible to identify with high accuracy a section with faulty threads, even if this break cannot be visually detected.

Repair procedure for a faulty OZS system

Having determined the reason why the rear window heating does not work, you can start repairing this system.

If the fuses or relays of the NEO system are faulty, then the faulty parts must be removed. Replacing them with new, efficient ones does not amount to labor. The main thing is that they are installed as indicated by the diagram of the electrical on-board system.
In the case when the culprit for damage in the OZS system is the terminal connection, the restoration of the heated rear window is also straightforward. It is enough to clean the contacts in the terminals. It may be necessary to replace the terminal box, but this also does not take much time.
If the glue that attached the contact on the rear window turned out to be of poor quality and delamination occurred, then in this case you need to buy a new high-quality conductive glue. Remove the layer of old glue from the detached contact using a napkin with an alcohol solution. Then apply a coat of new bonding agent and glue the contact in place.

If a wire break is detected on one of the buses, it is necessary to solder this wire to the old place using the connection diagram. The procedure is as follows:

remove the remnants of the old solder from the wire by stripping the end, in addition to this, the junction on the bus must also be cleaned;
using a brush, apply rosin paste as a flux to the cleaned surfaces of the bus and wires;
apply a solder containing three percent silver to the cleaned and roasted wire core;
solder the wire to the bus, while avoiding overheating of the surfaces.

Most of all accuracy when repairing the rear window heating with your own hands is required if a break is found in the conductive threads of the OZS heating element. To facilitate this work, special repair kits for this system are available commercially. To fix the damage, the actions are performed in the following order:

in the area of the gap, clean an area six millimeters long in each direction from the place of damage;
wipe the cleaned area with a napkin or a cloth soaked in alcohol or alcohol solution;
on both sides of the damaged thread, stick thin strips of repair adhesive tape or ordinary construction tape, if there is no repair kit. Do not allow sticking of adhesive tape on nearby threads, in order to avoid damage to them;

if there is a repair kit, then mix the hardener with a silver-colored composition, which, after application, will act as a conductive thread. After mixing, apply this compound with a stick or brush to the damaged area, closing the chain.

if there is no repair kit, then the role of a special mixture will be played by glue, which conducts electric current well, it can be applied with a brush, observing accuracy;
after repairing the damage, it is necessary to give time for the glue or a special mixture to harden; a hairdryer can be used to speed up this process;

after the strip that conducts the current has dried, it is necessary to carefully remove the self-adhesive tape, for this it is best to cut it with a knife at the point of abutment to the thread being repaired so as not to damage it when removing the tape;

after the work performed, it is necessary to check the operability of the OZS, for which start the car engine and press the OZS activation button.