To be honest, the task of removing the engine from the frame of the "Ant" is still a job ... As for me, it's easier to pull off a diesel engine from a tractor than from this rattler ... This is, of course, a joke. But seriously, removing the engine from "Ant" is much more difficult and longer than from any other Soviet motorcycle.
Instruments
- Flat screwdriver
- Open-end wrenches for 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 and 17
- Pliers and stuff ...
Preparation
If after removing the engine you are planning it, then it is better in advance while it is on the frame. And one more thing: since in any case we will have to crawl under the scooter and unscrew something there - look for yourself some old sweatshirt or pea jacket for bedding
Withdrawal
Whatever one may say, but the winding lever will only interfere with us - we unscrew it
Unscrew the two nuts on the muffler knee attachment flange
The muffler, which will prevent us from removing the engine, is attached to the frame with two bolts. We unscrew the bolts and remove it together with the knee or disconnect it in place and remove it separately - no difference
We unscrew the checkpoint drive rod and throw it on the ground
Disconnect the breaker contact wire from the coil
Disconnect the ground wire. The earth wire is located at the bottom of the engine just behind the knee of the muffler. Fastened to the engine with a 10
We remember the location and unscrew the dinostarter wires from the relay-regulator. After unscrewing the terminals - remove the wiring harness from the frame
The engine is attached to the frame at three points: one at the very bottom, the other two - front and rear. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine to the frame. For greater convenience, the bolts on the engine can be left on and instead of them, only the brackets can be unscrewed from the frame
Almost before leaving for permanent residence in another collective farm, one old acquaintance, whom I had not seen for 15 years, turned to me and asked me to turn off the engine of his "Ant". To be honest, I did not have much desire to contact this Soviet rattler, to say the least ... But after thinking and playing in my head the situation that I would have to sit in a new place for a while without my favorite job, I agreed and immediately proceeded to repair it.
Especially, I will not delve into the essence of the disassembly within the framework of this article - I will outline only the main points and, based on my experience, I will try to describe the most common malfunctions and errors during repair.
The engine had the following symptoms before it was sent for repairs:
- Bad start
- Oil leak
- Weak cravings
- Increased noise during operation
- The winder did not return to its place
Preliminary diagnosis:
- Depressurization of the crank chamber, as well as wear of the oil seals
- Poor build
- Died piston
- Bearing wear
- Kickstarter return spring burst
Everything else, including the gearbox and the clutch, did not cause any complaints during operation. However, first things first.
The motor chain turned out to be stretched, but not critical.
Removing the clutch
Unbend the lock washer, insert a tin bar or stick under the tooth of the motor transmission sprocket and unscrew the nut on the crankshaft trunnion (right thread).
We unbend the lock washer, fix the inner clutch drum with a puller, which is a clutch disc with a welded piece of tire and unscrew the nut (left thread).
We take out the discs and drum.
We remove the basket from the shaft together with the chain and the sprocket.
Removing the dinostarter
We remove the cooling jacket then, if - remove the ignition interrupter cam. We hold the dinostarter rotor by the fan and unscrew the nut. If in this way it is not possible to hold the rotor, we fix it with something crankshaft and unscrew the nut.
We pull off the rotor with a puller. The rotor can be pulled off both with a regular puller and with a homemade one. Depending on the situation, I use both a regular and a homemade one.
We remove the stator.
Analysis of errors from previous repairs
We remove the flange on which the stator is planted and carefully inspect the plane of the connector for the interference of "cool handles".
How many I repair "Ants" so much and come across the fact that all kinds of "awesome handles" cover the oil channel with sealant through which the oil flows to the main bearing of the crankshaft and the oil seal. Already tired, honestly - how much can you? Why cover it up then ???
The checkpoint, with the exception of one fork, did not cause any complaints. By the way, the clutch too.
Now the question is: what to do with all this junk? Buy a "plasticine" or understand whose production a crankshaft and tulle it into the engine ??? I was initially against this idea. In general, we found a used engine for a ruble and removed the crankshaft from it. Of course I had to tinker with him. Since his thread was clogged, I turned it around and straightened it with a scraper.
After thread dressing, I checked the crankshaft for runout. In vain I was worried - the beatings of the pins did not exceed one hundredth of a millimeter with a tolerance of three hundred parts. By and large, it would have been necessary to replace the bushing of the upper connecting rod head, but time was running out and the bushing was not very worn out. In all other respects, the crankshaft did not disappoint and this purchase can be safely called successful.
Everything else: CPG, cylinder head, gaskets, oil seals, bearings, motor chain, etc. decided to buy in the store. Although, by and large, the cylinder could be squandered and this will be limited. But the owner did not want to wait, but in vain.
It's no secret that the engineers of the Tula plant have created equipment with which an ordinary owner has to feel like a mechanic. So to this day, having found another problem, the owner of the Ant has to pick up the tool, remembering the would-be engineers. One of the main problems is the motor scooter Ant, which is repaired in most cases of breakdowns.
Dynastarter
However, not only the engine can make the motorcycle enthusiast visually see all the components of his motorcycle. The most common problem is dynastarter malfunctions... It, the engineers of the Tula plant, installed it in Ant, instead of the usual alternator.
Why is it so important? If you notice a red light on the dashboard while the moped is running, then you are running out of charging. This happens because the generator does not produce alternating current... To begin with, in such a situation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the wires connected to the dynastarter and the relay-regulator. If everything is in order, then the problem lies directly with the dynastarter. It can have three main causes of problems:
- difficulty in the operation of the rotor (dirt or dust accumulation in the collector);
- hanging or wear of the brushes;
- violation of the integrity of electrical equipment.
Since in most cases the work of the dynastarter is difficult due to contamination of the collector, it is worth carrying out a simple disassembly according to the instructions described in the moped operation book. The main rules when working are neatness and cleanliness. After disassembly, be sure to thoroughly rinse all parts in gasoline and lubricate rubbing parts and in no case throw parts away.
Assembling the engine
Unlike the dynastarter, it is difficult to repair the motor scooter Ant with your own hands according to the operation book. Therefore, it is worth referring to the advice of experienced motorcycle owners. Most often, the engine has to be disassembled in case of malfunctions of the clutch mechanisms, the operation of the gearbox, as well as wear of the crankshaft, bearings or oil seals. The most important rule is not to be afraid to disassemble the engine yourself. Using these instructions, disassembly and assembly of the motor scooter Ant will not be difficult.
So, the procedure for disassembling the engine:
How to assemble the engine of the Ant motor scooter can be seen in more detail in the visual video at the end of the article. The essence of the assembly is in the reverse order, but it is important to tighten the parts with a certain effort and synchronize the parts with the marks. In no case should you assemble the engine without detailed instructions written by the manufacturer.
At frequent breakdowns, the owners are wondering what kind of engine can be put on the Ant motor scooter. Instead of a native motor, you can use chinese analog motors... Since the Ant has many copies in Asian countries, an engine replacement could become excellent option save in case of irreversible damage. True, you will have to make the fasteners yourself and, in some cases, remake the bridge for the left chain location. This is not very difficult, given that the Tula plant provided for the possibility of rearranging the bridge.
(2
estimates, average: 4,50
out of 5) Ant is a three-wheeled cargo moped produced by the Tula plant. The Ant gained popularity due to its versatility and cost. An efficient motorcycle was a way out of the situation when there was no possibility of acquiring a car in Soviet times. The carrying capacity of 250 kg, with a weight of 240 kg, made this transport indispensable in agriculture.
The scooter is distinguished by high maneuverability and cross-country ability, as well as small dimensions. In the garage, it will take up as much space as a heavy motorcycle with a sidecar.
The Soviet motor scooter "Ant", which is still popular, has the following technical characteristics:
- Length - 2.68 m.
- Width - 1.25 m.
- Height - 1.07 m.
- Dry weight - 240 kg.
- Carrying capacity - 250 kg.
- The speed is about 30 km / h.
- Gasoline engine, two-stroke, 11 hp.
- 4-speed gearbox + reverse.
- Drum brakes with mechanical drive on each wheel.
Among fans of this brand, there is an opinion that the scooter is not inferior in operational properties to Western counterparts.
Of the advantages of a moped, it is worth noting:
- Small turning radius - 3.5 m.
- The lightness of the motor scooter "Ant", motorcycles predominate in weight.
- Low cost - only used devices are presented on the market.
There are also disadvantages:
- There are a lot of worn-out equipment on the market.
- The engine has high consumption fuel - from 8 liters. for 100 km. But more often this figure is closer to 10 - 11 liters. for 100 km. due to increased wear.
- Frequent breakdowns due to low reliability, especially of the engine.
The owners of Ant have the most questions about the engine. Appetites for fuel consumption want to restrain.
A motor was installed on the Ant, which was different from others produced by the industry. Soviet Union... Innovations in its design fueled the interest in technology of the then ordinary people. And now they are stirring up restorers and collectors. The differences are as follows:
- The presence of an electric starter.
- Forced cooling.
The main difference is the presence of an electric starter. This made it possible to start a moped in the same way as a car.
The cooling fan blows air around the engine casing, removing heat from it. It is worth noting that such a scheme works tolerably well.
The motor structure is simple. But even this does not insure him against breakdowns, which are often associated with age. It is not worth disassembling the motor just like that, but when the following signs appear, you should take up the tools:
- Launch problems.
- Oil leak.
- Lack of traction.
- Increased background noise.
- The winding lever does not return to its place.
Possible breakdowns:
- Worn oil seals.
- Poor assembly after previous repairs.
- Breakdown of the CPG.
- Worn bearings.
- The recoil spring has burst in the kickstarter.
Note! Front overhaul power plant washing it is optional. It is enough to drain the oil and remove it from the frame.
Cylinder block
Having unscrewed a few bolts, it is required to remove the cylinder head. Pay attention to the worn out cylinder head gasket. Opposite the outlet window, the so-called development should be probed. If a characteristic wave or step is felt, then such a cylinder must be changed or bored.
Overshoot occurs where the piston rings are in contact with the cylinder. Where they work, the metal wears out, so a transition is formed at the border with 2 zones, which reflects the degree of wear.
Examine the piston for wear. Some "Kulibins" manage to modify it with sandpaper.
Clutch
- Removing the clutch cover and kickstarter shaft. Pay attention to the return spring - it often bursts and the kickstarter does not return to its place. You can also check the timing chain tension at this point.
- Analysis of the clutch. To do this, you need to unscrew the nuts and remove the pressure plate from the basket.
- The lock washer must be unbent and a stick inserted under the tooth of the main gear sprocket. Please note that the thread on the crankshaft stub nut is right-hand. The nut needs to be unscrewed.
- There will be another lock washer that needs to be straightened out. We take a puller and fixes the clutch drum. The thread at the clutch nut is left-handed.
- The disc and drum are removed, as well as the clutch basket is removed from the shaft together with the chain and the drive sprocket.
Dinostarter
Dismantle the following items:
- Cooling jacket.
- Ignition interrupter cam, but on condition that the power plant was not altered for magneto. In this case, it is required to fix the dinostarter rotor. This can be done for the cooling fan or by fixing the crankshaft with improvised means.
- The rotor is dismantled using a puller - standard or homemade.
As a result, the rotor is removed.
Spare parts price
Despite the fact that the production of the device has long ceased, to this day you can find new spare parts that are produced by the industry. Some parts are imported, some are assembled. The sets are supplied:
- Clutch discs.
- Power plant and gearbox gaskets.
- Nuts.
- Branch pipes.
- Levers.
The necessary parts can be found on the Internet using store catalogs. The prices for the spare parts of the motor scooter "Ant" are loyal. Here are some examples:
- Clutch disc - 400 rubles.
- Kickstarter shaft - 1100 rubles.
- Front shock absorber - 1600 rubles.
- Gearbox oil seals - 100 rubles.
- Piston - 2500 rubles.
- Reducer - 14,000 rubles.
- Wheel hub - 2000 rubles.
Judging by the prices, the device is more than cheap to repair. This is an important operational property for people in the countryside.
In terms of tuning the Soviet apparatus, Ant what the owners will not come up with. After all, they are often technically savvy people who enjoy spending time in the garage. Several areas can be distinguished:
- Weight loss. To do this, you need to remove the "extra" equipment. This includes the body kit in the form of fenders, hood and fairings, as well as all electrical equipment. For the transportation of goods in the village in the summer, all this is unlikely to be required.
- Increased recoil from the power plant... To do this, cut off the dinostarter shaft. The operation will add power and dynamism. Recoil during cranking is leveled by trimming the crankshaft.
- Installation of other wheels. 4.5 - 9 in the front, and 7 - 10 in the back. Permeability and speed will increase.
- Improvement piston group... You can buy a piston with three rings and make an additional window in the cylinder for supplying the fuel mixture.
- Magneto and improving the efficiency of the cooling system- this is additional tuning.
The main task when tuning is to increase reliability and to poke around less in details due to breakdowns.
In terms of tuning the motor, some owners went to radical measures and installed the Lifan 188f engine on the Ant scooter, which has a volume of 400 cubic meters. see. And its power is 13 hp. A distinctive feature of this assembly is a variator and a centrifugal clutch.
The centrifugal clutch is not the best way for freight transport, because when driving over rough terrain on a loaded scooter on low speeds its slippage is possible. And this incapacitates him.
What are the modifications of the "Ant" scooter on the video:
