External cleaner for oil and other contaminants from the car engine. De-carbonization of piston rings and cleaning the engine from carbon deposits Engine cleaner from oil carbon deposits

It allows you to get rid of stains of dirt, oil, fuel, bitumen and other things on the surfaces of individual parts in the engine compartment of a car in a short time. Such cleaning must be performed periodically (at least several times a year, especially in spring and autumn) so that, firstly, if renovation works touch relatively clean parts, and secondly, to minimize the ingress of contamination from the outer surfaces of the parts into the internal space. As for the aesthetic component, often car engine cleaners are used to perform pre-sale complex cleaning of the car.

The assortment of various car engine cleaners is now wide enough on store shelves, and car owners use them everywhere. Many of them leave their feedback and comments on this application on the Internet. Based on such information found, the editors of the site have compiled a non-commercial rating of popular products, which includes the most effective cleaners. A detailed list with a detailed description of certain funds is presented in the material.

What are the purifiers

Currently, the range of car engine surface cleaners is quite wide. Similar products are produced by various manufacturers in different countries of the world. As for the state of aggregation of the cleaners, there are three types of them on the shelves of car dealerships:

• aerosols;
• manual triggers;
• foam products.

According to statistics, aerosols are the most popular. Their popularity is due not only to their high efficiency, but also to their ease of use. So, they are applied to places of pollution with the help of aerosol cans, in which they are packed (after hitting the surface, the active agent turns into foam). As for the trigger packs, they are similar to aerosol packs, however, the trigger involves manually spraying the cleaner over the surface to be treated. Foam engine cleaners are applied with a rag or sponge, and are designed to remove stains of oil, dirt, fuel, antifreeze and other technical fluids that may occur on the surface of the engine compartment parts.

In addition to the type of packaging, engine cleaners differ in composition, in particular, in the base component. In large quantities, dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid (abbreviated as DBSA) is used as the main detergent; it is the strongest synthetic emulsifier of oils and fats, capable of removing even the dried substances mentioned from the surface treated by it.

How to choose an engine cleaner

The choice of one or another external car engine cleaner must be made based on several factors. In particular:

• State of aggregation... As mentioned above, the cleaners are sold in three types of packages - aerosols (sprays), triggers and foam formulations. It is preferable to buy aerosol cleaners because they are easy to use and store. In terms of efficiency, they are also among the best. However, in this case, the type of packaging is not critical, since due to logistics, the range of stores in some regions of the country may be limited, and there will be no aerosol engine cleaners.
• Additional functions... In particular, in addition to good detergency, cleaners should also be safe for rubber and plastic parts that are abundant on engine parts (various rubber tubes, caps, seals, plastic covers, etc.). Accordingly, during washing, these elements should not be destroyed even partially. In addition, it is desirable that a car engine cleaner prevents the destruction of electrical wiring in the engine compartment by aggressive elements, and also prevents the likelihood of a fire. Aggressive elements mean fuel, solvents, salts and other elements that can get into the engine compartment from below or from above.
• Efficiency... An external engine cleaner, by definition, should dissolve well stains of grease, oils (greases, engine oil), fuel, wash off just dried dirt, and so on. An additional efficiency of aerosol engine cleaners lies in the fact that the foam, spreading over the treated surface, gets into hard-to-reach places where it is impossible to reach simply with a rag. And its further removal can be done with water under high pressure... As for the effectiveness of the composition, information about it can be read in the instructions, which, as a rule, are printed directly on the packaging in which the product is packaged. It will also be useful to read the reviews about engine cleaners. internal combustion car.
• Price-to-volume ratio... Here you need to think like when choosing any product. The amount of packaging should be selected taking into account the number of planned surface treatments of engine parts. For a one-time treatment, one small balloon is enough. If you plan to use the product on a regular basis, then it is better to take a bigger bottle. This will save you money.
• Security... A car engine cleaner must be safe not only for rubber and plastic, but also for other parts of the car, as well as for human health, in particular, for his skin, as well as for the respiratory system. In addition, it is desirable that the purifier is safe from an environmental point of view.
• Ease of use... Aerosol cleaners are easiest to use, followed by manual trigger packs and regular liquid foams. When using the first two types, there is usually no need to touch the cleaner with your hands, since the application takes place at a distance from the contamination. As for foam cleaners, it is often necessary to wash your hands after using them.

Hand cleaners from dirt

After a car repair, your hands are always dirty, and the question of how to wash them is acute, because neither gasoline nor powder often helps. For such stubborn dirt, there are special auto-pastes. Here are the 10 best cleaning products

How to use cleaners

As for the most common aerosol and trigger engine cleaners, despite the differences in their composition and names, the algorithm for their use is the same for the overwhelming majority, and consists of the following steps:

1. Disconnect the negative terminal with battery to avoid possible malfunctions or "glitches" of electronic components of a car engine.
2. Using the pressure of water under pressure or simply using water and a brush, it is necessary to remove dirt from the surface of the engine parts, which can be easily removed without the use of additional means. This will allow, firstly, to save the cleaner, and secondly, to increase its efficiency, without extending its efforts to remove minor contaminants.
3. Apply the product to the treated surfaces. Please note that this can only be done when the engine is cold, unless the instructions explicitly state otherwise (some funds are applied to slightly warmed motors). Aerosol cans must be shaken well before use. First of all, you need to apply the cleaner to the dried spots of process fluids - oil, brakes, antifreeze, fuel, and so on. When applying, special attention should be paid to hard-to-reach places, cracks, and so on.
4. Allow the product to absorb and carry out a cleansing chemical reaction for several minutes (usually the instructions indicate a time of 10 ... 20 minutes).
5. With the help of water under pressure (most often the famous "Karcher" or its analogs are used), or simply with the help of water and a brush, it is necessary to remove the foam together with the dissolved dirt.
6. Close the hood and start the engine. Let it run for about 15 minutes so that when its temperature rises, the liquid naturally evaporates from the engine compartment.

Some cleaners may have different time of their action (chemical reaction, dissolution), the amount of the applied agent, and so on. Before using any cleaner read the instructions carefully on its packaging, and be sure to follow the recommendations given there!

Rating of popular engine cleaners

This subsection presents a list of effective, that is, good, car engine cleaners that have repeatedly proven their worth in practice. The list does not endorse any of the products it contains. It was compiled on the basis of comments found on the Internet and the results of real tests. Therefore, all the cleaners presented below are recommended for purchase by both ordinary car enthusiasts and craftsmen who are professionally engaged in car washing in car services, car washes, and so on.

Liqui Moly Motorraum-Reiniger Engine Spray Cleaner

Liqui Moly Motorraum-Reiniger aerosol spray cleaner is rightfully considered one of the best among competitors. It is a special cleaning agent specially designed for use in the engine compartments of almost all vehicles. It can be used to quickly and easily remove oil, grease, bitumen, tar, brake pad abrasives, preservatives, road salt compounds and other contaminants. The Liquid Moli engine cleaner does not contain chlorinated hydrocarbons. Propane / butane is used as a drive gas in the cylinder. The use is traditional. The distance from which the product should be applied is 20 ... 30 cm. The waiting time for the chemical reaction is 10 ... 20 minutes (if the contamination is old, it is better to wait up to 20 minutes or more, this will ensure high efficiency of the product).

Reviews and actual tests carried out by motorists-enthusiasts show that the Liqui Moly Motorraum-Reiniger cleaner really does a very good job with the tasks assigned to it. At the same time, thick foam provides penetration into various hard-to-reach places. It is also noted that the product is quite economical, so one package of the cleaner will probably be enough for several treatments of the engine compartment (for example, several times a year, in the off-season). Great for processing the machine before selling. Of the disadvantages of this purifier, only a relatively high price can be noted in comparison with competitors. However, this feature is typical for most auto chemicals produced under the world famous brand Liqui Moly.

Liqui Moly Motorraum-Reiniger engine spray cleaner is sold in a 400 ml aerosol can. The article by which you can buy it in any online store is 3963. The average price of such a package as of the winter of 2018/2019 is about 600 rubles.

Runway Foamy Engine Cleaner

Runway Foamy Engine Cleaner is one of the most popular and effective products in its market segment. The instructions for the tool indicate that it easily removes any dirt in the engine compartment - burnt technical fluids, oil smudges, salt road residues and just old dirt. In addition, it prevents damage to the electrical wiring under the hood. Safe for plastic and rubber elements. Dodecylbenzenesulfonic acid is used as the main detergent. It is a synthetic emulsifier that dissolves the substances listed above and allows you to wash off even after the emulsifier has dried directly.

Tests carried out by car owners show that Ranway Foam Engine Cleaner really does a very good job even with old dirt and easily removes dried stains of oil, grease, brake fluid and so on. The way of using is traditional. The time that you need to wait before rinsing off the product is about 5 ... 7 minutes, and by and large depends on the degree of persistence of the stains. The cleaner has a very thick white foam that easily penetrates into the most inaccessible places, various crevices, and so on. Foam (emulsifier) ​​quickly dissolves dirt, this can be seen with the naked eye after applying the product. A separate advantage of this cleaner is its large package, which has a low price.

The Runway Foamy Engine Cleaner is implemented in a 650 ml aerosol can. The article number for such a package is RW6080. Its price as of the period indicated above is about 250 rubles.

Foam engine cleaner Hi Gear ENGINE SHINE FOAMING DEGREASER

Foam engine cleaner Hi Gear ENGINE SHINE FOAMING DEGREASER is popular not only among domestic, but also among foreign car owners. The product contains powerful emulsifiers, the task of which is to dissolve any, even the most old, stains from oil, fuel, grease, bitumen, and just dirt. Foam applied to the treated surface is easily held even on vertical planes without sliding down. This makes it possible to dissolve dirt even on suitably positioned parts, that is, to clean difficult dirt. The foam also spreads effectively to hard-to-reach places. The composition of the cleaner Hi Gear ENGINE SHINE FOAMING DEGREASER protects the engine wiring, preventing the occurrence of fire on its elements. Absolutely safe for parts made of plastic or rubber. It can be used not only for processing the engine compartment of a car, but also for cleaning concrete floors from oil. The latter circumstance suggests that it can be used for cleaning floors in garages, workshops, etc. instead of the corresponding cleaning agent.

The instructions for the cleaner indicate that before applying it to the surface to be treated, the engine must be warmed up to a temperature of about + 50 ... + 60 ° C, and then turned off. Then shake the bottle well and apply the product. Waiting time - 10 ... 15 minutes. The composition must be washed off with a powerful jet of water (for example, from "Karcher"). After flushing, let the engine dry for 15 ... 20 minutes. Short-term exposure of the drive belt to the cleaner is allowed auxiliary units... However, do not allow the cleaner to get on the paintwork of the car body. If this happens, then you need to immediately wash it off with water, without rubbing it with a napkin or rag! After that, you also do not need to wipe anything.

The High Gear foam engine cleaner is packaged in 454 ml aerosol cans. The article number of such a package, according to which it can be purchased, is HG5377. The price of the goods for the period indicated above is about 460 rubles.

Aerosol engine cleaner ASTROhim

Aerosol engine cleaner ASTROhim, judging by the reviews of motorists, has a good thick foam, which, according to the manufacturer, includes a balanced complex of detergent surfactants (abbreviated as surfactants). The foam penetrates into hard-to-reach places, so that dirt is removed even there. This helps to remove it not mechanically (manually), but with the help of the mentioned means and water pressure. The instructions indicate that the Astrokhim engine cleaner can be used to clean the power units not only of cars, but also of motorcycles, boats, gardening and agricultural machinery. The cleaner can be used even on a cool engine. The ASTROhim cleaner contains no solvent, so it is absolutely safe for plastic and rubber products.

Real tests and reviews of motorists who at different times used the ASTROhim engine cleaner show that it is indeed a very effective tool that can remove dried stains of dirt, oil, brake fluid, fuel and other contaminants. Moreover, it does this with the help of thick white foam, which penetrates into the micropores of the treated surfaces and removes dirt from there. Also, one of the many advantages of this composition is the large volume of packages at their low price.

The Astrokhim engine cleaner is sold in various packages. The most common of these is a 520 ml aerosol can. The cylinder article is AC387. Its price for the specified period is 150 rubles. For other packs, the 250 ml spray bottle is sold under part number AC380. Packing price is 80 rubles. The other packaging is a 500 ml manual trigger spray bottle. The article number of such a package is AC385. Its price is 120 rubles. And the largest package is a 650 ml aerosol can. Its article is AC3876. Its average price is about 160 rubles.

Grass Engine Cleaner

The Grass Engine Cleaner is positioned by the manufacturer as a high-quality and inexpensive cleaner for engine elements from dirt, oil, fuel, salt deposits and other contaminants, including old and dried ones. The instructions explicitly state that the Grass Engine Cleaner can only be used with passenger cars! The product does not contain alkalis (made according to a unique alkali-free formula) using organic solvents and a complex of effective surfactants (surfactants). Thus, it is completely safe for the skin of human hands, as well as for paintwork car. Please note that the package does not sell a ready-to-use product, but its concentrate, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 200 grams per one liter of water.

Tests performed on the Grass engine cleaner show that it really does a good job at cleaning the surface of engine parts from oils and dirt. The resulting thick foam dissolves even stubborn stains well. Another significant advantage of this purifier is its low price, taking into account that the concentrate is sold in the package. Therefore, purchasing it will be a bargain. Of the disadvantages of the cleaner, it can only be noted that the package is equipped with a manual trigger, which reduces the convenience of using it, especially if it is planned to process a large engine, and / or use a large amount of cleaner for additional treatment of dried dirt spots.

The Grass engine cleaner is sold in a bottle equipped with a 500 ml manual trigger spray. The article number of such a package is 116105. Its average price for the above period is about 90 rubles.

Lavr Foam Motor Cleaner

Cleaning the engine compartment Lavr Foam Motor Cleaner is a foam engine cleaner, which is designed not only for one-time cleaning of the engine compartment, but also for its regular use. It is its constant use that will allow you to keep engine parts clean and protect them from external influences harmful factors such as salts and alkalis found in the road asphalt pavement in winter period as well as from fuel, brake fluid, dirt, brake pad abrasives and so on. The cleaner contains a thick active foam that can effectively remove even stubborn stains. According to the instructions, after use, additional brushing is not needed, but only needs to be washed off with water. After processing, no greasy film remains on the surfaces of the parts. It is absolutely safe for engine parts, and also prevents the formation of corrosion on metal surfaces.

According to the instructions, before using the product, it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature (average). Next, you need to close the air duct and the critical electrical parts of the engine (candles, contacts) with plastic wrap or similar waterproof material. Then, using a manual trigger, apply engine cleaner "Laurel" to the treated contaminated surfaces. After that, wait a while (the instructions indicate a period of 3 ... 5 minutes, however, longer time is allowed), after which the formed foam must be washed off with copious amounts of water. To do this, you can use a brush and soap, or you can use a pump. However, in the latter case, there is a risk of damage to the said polyethylene film protecting the electrical contacts of the motor.

As for the practical use of the Lavr Foam Motor Cleaner, the reviews speak of its average effectiveness. In general, it does a good job of cleaning, but in some cases it has been noted that it has a hard time coping with chronic chemical stains. However, it is quite suitable for garage use, and is definitely recommended for purchase by ordinary car owners. It is perfect for cleaning the engine during the pre-sale preparation of the car.

Lavr Foam Motor Cleaner is available in a 480 ml bottle with a manual spray trigger. The article number of such a package, according to which you can buy a cleaner in the online store, is Ln1508. The average price of such a package is 200 rubles.

Kerry Foam Cleaner

Kerry is positioned by the manufacturer as a foam cleaner for the outer surfaces of the engine. It contains no organic solvents. Instead, it is water-based with the addition of a complex of surfactants. This allows us to state that this product is in no way inferior in efficiency to similar cleaners based on organic solvents. By the way, the absence of solvents in the "Kerry" cleaner, firstly, relieves it of sharp unpleasant odor, and secondly, its use is much safer from the point of view of the possible occurrence of fire. Also, water-based cleaners are much more environmentally friendly. They do not harm the environment. Including they are safe for human skin. However, if it gets on your skin, it is still better to wash it off with water.

Tests by enthusiastic car enthusiasts show that the performance of the Kerry Cleaner is in fact average. So, in practice, it copes well with mud spots of average complexity. However, it may not cope with more complex, including chemical, pollution. To do this, you need to use more effective means or remove stains mechanically (in particular with brushes or similar tools). Therefore, this tool is more likely to be suitable as a prophylactic one, that is, it is used regularly to clean the engine, preventing the appearance of old and dried out stains that are difficult to remove on its parts.

Kerry Foam Engine Cleaner is sold in two different packages. The first is in a 520 ml aerosol can. The article for purchase in the online store is KR915. The price of such a package is 160 rubles. The second type of packaging is a bottle with a manual trigger. Its part number is KR515. The price of such a package is on average 100 rubles.

Fenom engine cleaner

Fenom belongs to the category of classic external cleaners, and it can be used to clean parts in the engine compartment, gearbox and other machine parts (and not only) that need to be cleaned of oil stains, various process fluids, fuel, and simply dried mud. In accordance with the instructions, before using the Fenom cleaner, it is necessary to warm up the engine to a temperature of about + 50 ° C, and then turn it off. Next, you need to shake the container well and apply the cleaner to the surfaces to be treated. Waiting time is 15 minutes. After that, rinse off the foam with water. The instructions explicitly state that both working foam and water must not be allowed to enter the engine air intake. Therefore, if possible, it is better to cover it with plastic wrap or similar waterproof material.

The performance of the Fenom engine cleaner is actually average. It does a good job of removing more or less fresh and uncomplicated (non-chemical) stains, but it may not cope with more stubborn stains. In this case, you can try to apply the product two or even three times. However, this, firstly, will lead to its overspending, and secondly, it also does not guarantee a positive result. Therefore, the "Fenom" cleaner can rather be recommended as a prophylactic agent that needs to treat the surfaces of engine parts in order to prevent the occurrence of pockets of severe contamination on them, including those caused by the spilling of process fluids.

The engine cleaner "Fenom" is realized in a 520 ml aerosol can. The article of the cylinder by which it can be purchased is FN407. The average price of a package is about 180 rubles.

Mannol engine cleaner

Under the Mannol trademark, two similar compositions are produced for cleaning the working surfaces of engine parts, transmissions and other car elements. The first is the external cleaning of the Mannol Motor Cleaner and the second is the Mannol Motor Kaltreiniger. Their compositions are almost identical, and they differ only in packaging. The first comes in a bottle with a manual trigger, and the second in an aerosol can. The use of funds is traditional. Their only difference is that it is easier and faster to apply the agent to the treated surfaces using an aerosol can. The foam from the aerosol is also slightly thicker and better penetrates hard-to-reach areas and pores of engine parts.

A dirty engine, stained with dirt and oil, is not only unpleasant in appearance. Contaminants on the crankcase and attachments can lead to serious negative consequences. In this article, we will talk about engine cleaners from oil and dirt and assess how important it is to keep the engine clean.

Why do you need to clean the engine?

There are several negative consequences that can occur in the event of critical engine contamination.

1. Deterioration of heat transfer. Initially, when designing the engine, part of the heat removal is laid on the natural cooling of the engine by the ambient air. And with the expectation of this, the cooling system is already being designed. The so-called "fur coat" of oil and dirt reduces the thermal conductivity of the crankcase. A decrease in the intensity of heat removal from the engine crankcase will at least cause an increase in its average operating temperature by several degrees, and on hot days it can lead to overheating.
2. The likelihood of a fire. Mud and oil deposits on the engine are able to ignite from a small spark and grow into a serious fire in a matter of seconds.

1. Negative impact on attachments. Oil and dirt on drive belts, wiring, pipes, and attachments can cause these components to malfunction.
2. The appearance of an unpleasant odor in the cabin. The heated oil on the engine crankcase creates an unpleasant odor that enters the passenger compartment and causes discomfort.
3. Unpleasant appearance of the engine, difficulties in the production of repair work under the hood.

Therefore, washing the engine is not just a cosmetic operation, but an important procedure.

Review of popular means for cleaning internal combustion engines from oil and dirt

There are quite a few different chemical engine cleaners on the Russian market. Let's consider the most popular ones.

1. Hi-Gear Engine Shine, Foaming Degreaser... One of the most popular means in the Russian Federation. Available in 454 ml cylinders. It is a foam emulsion, a mixture of various penetrating dispersants capable of dissolving even old oily deposits. It is applied to a warm engine, washed off with water. Not aggressive towards plastic and rubber. Has positive reviews from motorists in terms of efficiency. More expensive than most other engine cleaners.
2. ABRO Masters Engine Degreaser... This cleaner is a spray in a 450 ml pressurized can. Consists of surfactants, alkaline dispersants and light solvents. It is sprayed onto the engine, after a short wait (impregnation and splitting of mud deposits) it is washed off with water. Has a peculiar smell, which some motorists call unpleasant. However, a few hours after processing the engine, this smell is almost completely disappeared.

1. Grass Engine Cleaner... Also popular in the Russian Federation. Differs in its cheapness and at the same time good efficiency. It copes well with fresh oil stains and small dust deposits. Has a large number of surfactants in the composition. It also removes stubborn deposits quite effectively. It is sold as a ready-to-use product in 500 ml containers with a mechanical spray or as a concentrate. The spray is applied in a non-contact way to the engine, the concentrate is mixed with water and can be applied by contact and non-contact. According to the ratio of price and washing ability, it is recognized by motorists as one of the best offers.

1. Runway Engine Cleaner... Aerosol engine cleaner, available in 650 ml metal cans. It has an average efficiency. With a low price among similar products, it copes well with relatively fresh dirt. Not suitable for removing dried oil and dust crusts.
2. Foam engine cleaner 3ton... Inexpensive and effective remedy. Has a subjectively pleasant smell. Efficiency and price are market average.

These are the most common products in the chemical engine cleaner category. There are several folk remedies to clean the engine from contamination. However, not all of them are safe and affordable for ordinary motorists. Therefore, we will not consider them here.

Which purifier should you choose?

A noteworthy fact: most of the Motor Cleaners on the market work with approximately the same effectiveness. Best of all, according to motorists, Hi-gear and Grass products work. However, much depends on the nature of the pollution and the personal, not always objective, assessment of car owners.

For household, one-time cleaning of the engine from lightly abundant contamination, it is better to use inexpensive foam sprayers such as 3ton, Runway or ABRO. They are good at cleaning light dust deposits or drips of working fluids that did not have time to dry.

To remove more serious dirt, it is better to use a more expensive product, for example, from Hi-Gear. This tool has a more powerful penetrating and disintegrating ability. But it is not able to cope with old raids.

It is easier to remove copious dirt by the contact method. To facilitate this task, it is better to use a spray or apply a contact (brush or brush) cleaner. In this situation, the Grass Engine Cleaner is an excellent solution in terms of price and efficiency.

Remember to take proper precautions when cleaning the motor from dirt and oil. Cover sensitive cavities with a rag or plastic wrap. Disconnect the negative battery terminal. Work in a well ventilated area. And most importantly - always apply the product carefully and think whether the treatment of this or that area with a cleaner will harm the motor.

During the operation of the car, carbon compounds are formed on the internal surfaces of the engine and in the channels of the lubrication system. They are inevitable and cannot be solved simply by using engine oil. High Quality... Also, do not forget that when draining old, used oil, some of it remains inside the engine. How does this threaten the car?

When you fill the engine with new oil, the additives contained in it will immediately begin to interact with deposits and impurities. This can lead to a variety of negative impacts, including:

• partial clogging of the oil filter;
• premature development of the additive package, loss of performance properties of recently filled oil.

How to be in this situation? It is necessary to use special flushing agents, thanks to which the engine after replacement engine oil will work efficiently and smoothly.

How often should you flush? This should be done every time you change the oil or oil filter.

How to choose an engine cleaner? The obvious option is to use fresh engine oil. In this case, everything is simple: you need to drain the old oil and fill in the new one. After the engine has been running for some time, the oil used for flushing is drained and fresh is refilled. This approach provides good results, but it has a serious drawback - high cost. When using oil as an engine flush, you pay twice for it.

The next option is to use a special flushing oil. Such flushing is poured into car engine after draining the old oil, after which it needs to work for about 15-20 minutes for Idling... Typically this product is mineral based, which makes it affordable. Then you change the filter and drain the used engine flush, replacing it with fresh oil. Unfortunately, such funds cannot be completely drained, some part inevitably remains in the internal cavities, mixes with fresh oil, deteriorates its viscosity and other operational properties.

The best option is flushing, which is called "five-minute", as well as other similar products. This tool is a set of additives that is poured into old oil, mixed with it and effectively removes dirt and deposits formed in the engine. This flushing has many advantages. She:

• restores the mobility of compression and oil scraper piston rings;
• improves heat dissipation;
• minimizes engine wear, increases its resource;
• makes it easier to drain old oil.

Separately, it is worth noting the safety of such washes for rubber seals, oil seals, valve stem seals.

In some cases, it is necessary to use the so-called professional flushing, which can cope with the most difficult tasks of cleaning engines from contamination. How are they different from conventional products? In professional flushing, the content of active components is increased. They are recommended for use in the following cases:

• constant use of mineral oils of insufficient quality (flushing should be used at least once every three oil changes);
• severe overheating of the engine and the resulting formation of carbon deposits;
• frequent use of fuel of dubious quality;
• obvious engine malfunctions - poor start-up, loss of compression, smoke, and so on;
• significant excess of the oil change interval;
• constant strong knocking of hydraulic lifters caused by a clogged oil supply line.

For washing heavily worn engines, special products are used, designed for effective and at the same time gentle cleaning. The fact is that during cleaning, large fragments of deposits can form, which can harm the interacting parts. The use of special flushes allows you to transfer deposits and impurities into low-dispersed phases, which cannot damage the engine.

High quality washes from Liqui Moly

Liqui Moly produces high quality products to deal with engine deposits and contamination. They make oil change easier and more efficient.

The following washes are examples:

• Engine Flush is a fast-acting substance, "five minutes", with which you can flush the engine during a regular oil change;
• Oilsystem Spulung Light is a mild oil system cleaner that is easy to use and extremely effective;
• Oil-Schlamm-Spulung is a product of enhanced action, which makes it possible to flush an engine with heavy contamination and get rid of sludge formed in the system after prolonged overheating;
• Oilsystem Spulung High Performance Diesel is a heavy duty cleaner designed to remove contaminants from a diesel engine.

Every Liqui Moly Wash is a carefully formulated product that has been tested and proven to be effective. A wide range allows you to find a solution for each specific case.

The formation of carbon deposits and coke on engine parts and internal surfaces of its blocks is a natural process that cannot be avoided. At the same time, the formation of carbon deposits increases wear power unit and contributes to its failure. Is there a way to remove deposits without disassembling the engine? Of course! We'll show you how to do this below.

1 When to remove carbon deposits - the first symptoms

First of all, let's figure out how to determine that the engine needs cleaning from carbon deposits that have formed inside the cylinders and on its other parts. Fortunately, the problem manifests itself with the following symptoms:

• cold engine does not start well;
• after starting from exhaust pipe there is strong smoke, the engine has been troit for some time;
• exhaust gases have a specific burning smell;
• the dynamics of the car decreases, the engine does not pull well;
• excessive consumption of fuel appears;
• when the ignition is turned off, the fuel in the cylinders continues to ignite for some time, and strong vibrations... This phenomenon is called glow ignition, since the ignition of the combustible mixture occurs from a hot carbon deposit, and not a spark;
• The engine gets very hot.

If these signs appear, do not delay cleaning the engine, as the presence of carbon deposits can lead to more unpleasant consequences, such as burnout of valves, failure of the connecting rod-piston group. To prevent carbon deposits from forming on engine parts for as long as possible, use high-quality synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and be sure to change them in time.

2 We start with the combustion chamber - flushing the piston system

There are two types of engine cleaning with chemical compounds:

• mild - involves the addition of various additives and cleaning agents to the fuel;
• hard - carried out by flushing the combustion chambers.

Gentle flushing can only be useful as a preventive measure, so we will not consider it. If you need to wash off the carbon deposits that have accumulated in the engine in large quantities (you have noticed that the above symptoms have appeared), harsh cleaning is required. To produce it, you need a special decoking liquid. It is often sold with compressed air in a can, syringe and tube. In this case, you will not need any other tools. If only liquid is included, the syringe and compressed air must be purchased separately.

We start flushing by warming up the engine to a temperature of at least 70 degrees. Then you need to unscrew all the candles, and also disconnect the center wire from the distributor. Be sure to mark the candlesticks high voltage wires, so as not to forget in what order they are connected to the cylinders. Next, you need to crank crankshaft so that all pistons are approximately at the same level. To do this, turn the pulley nut (below in the photo) or the drive wheel, having previously jacked it up.

Then in each cylinder it is necessary to pour the liquid for decoking using a syringe and a tube. The manufacturers indicate the volume of fluid required for each cylinder in the instructions. Next, tighten the plugs and leave the engine for a few hours. If the combustion chambers are heavily coked, wait 12 hours (it is advisable to turn the crankshaft periodically).

Next, pump out the remaining liquid from the cylinders using a tube and a syringe. Then blow out each cylinder with compressed air. Then you should press the gas pedal all the way and turn the crankshaft with the starter for five to ten seconds. Finally, reconnect all ignition wires and start the engine. Let the motor run for five or ten minutes. At first, a slight smoke is possible, but do not be alarmed, this will burn out the cleaning agent that remains in the engine.

Keep in mind that the above operation only removes carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. However, deposits appear on other engine parts as well. To get rid of them, it is necessary to flush the lubrication system.

3 Cleaning the lubrication system - we will not leave the soot a chance

Flushing the lubrication system can be done in several ways:

• a "five-minute" additive;
• oil "five minutes";

The easiest way to flush the engine with the so-called five minutes. If an additive is used for these purposes, then it is simply added to the engine, and then the engine idles for 5 minutes, after which the old oil with the additive is drained, the filter is changed, and a new fluid is poured. The engine is flushed with a five-minute oil approximately as well, but it should not be mixed with old oil. Those. first, you need to drain the old oil and only then fill in the flushing oil. The motor should run on it for 5 minutes in idle mode, after which the flushing is drained and new grease is poured. Please note that in no case can you ride on a five-minute ride.

A better result can be achieved with flushing oil, on which the car must travel about a hundred kilometers. This composition is filled in instead of the old oil. Please note that this grease must be driven in the break-in mode, as it has weak protective properties. Then the flushing oil is drained and the usual one is poured.

As you can see, it is not at all difficult to clean the engine from carbon deposits, at the same time, this procedure can significantly extend the service life of the internal combustion engine. You shouldn't neglect it!

De-carbonization of piston rings and cleaning from engine carbon deposits, combustion chambers is an operation that requires regular use and can be done by hand without the help of a car service. Incomplete combustion of fuel leads to aging of the oil, affects its characteristics, and also forms carbon deposits, sludge, deposits.

Reasons for the formation of deposits in the motor:

• Heavy fuel fractions;
• Driving on a cold engine;
• Short distance trips;
• Prolonged idling;
• Operation at low and medium speeds;
• Stopping the engine after a long drive at high revs.

Coke and sludge are formed in places of the highest temperature, i.e. on the rings, valves, in the grooves of the pistons, which causes coking of the piston rings, as a result of which the rings lose their mobility, which in turn leads to a decrease in power, increased oil consumption for waste, increased fuel consumption, and the appearance of smoke from the exhaust pipe.

The same symptoms may indicate mechanical malfunctions in the power unit and its wear. To diagnose and identify the cause, it is necessary to make a diagnosis. Most car repair shops will ask you to check the compression.

By this parameter alone, it is not possible to say with confidence that the rings are coked or there is mechanical wear and need to be repaired. The deviation from the norm of compression has its own reasons, and more than one. But, as a rule, it all boils down to one thing - big compression due to the presence of oil in the cylinders, small - wear of the cylinder-piston group. In both cases, they will offer to disassemble the engine. Determining the state and passing judgment on one parameter is the same as poking a finger into the sky and resembles fortune telling on coffee grounds. Let's look at an example. The rings got stuck in the piston groove and lost their mobility. In this case, the compression will be less than normal, while the rings themselves are in good order. In another case, the coke hammered the groove and the rings lay directly on it and also lost their mobility. In this case, the amount of compression will be higher than normal, and the rings will be subject to mechanical wear on the cylinder walls. Both cases do not imply interference with the power unit by disassembling and troubleshooting, and the decarbonization of the piston rings will come in handy. With this operation, it will be possible to remove carbon deposits and restore the mobility of the rings, as a result of which the pneumatic density of the cylinders will return to normal, and with this power, fuel and oil consumption.

Means for decoking piston rings and cleaning engine carbon deposits

Cleaning the engine, valves, combustion chamber from carbon deposits indiscriminately with the help of auto chemistry preparations, additives, kerosene allows you to carry out this operation yourself. But, not everything is so cloudless. We will not describe how to do this with the help of laurel, or the use of liquid moths, kerosene and similar preparations, which usually include kerosene and acetone. The design of the power unit and the arrangement of the cylinders do not always allow it to be done efficiently and without removing the motor. The in-line arrangement is the most favorable for this operation. It is possible to set the pistons in a central position and achieve the distribution of the agent over all surfaces. The same cannot be said in the case of the V-shaped, and even more so the opposed arrangement of the cylinders. The decarbonizing and descaling agent will always only act on one side - the side of the tilt of the cylinder angle. In addition, we must not forget that if the rings are tightly and deeply embedded in the piston groove, then most of the chemistry, when introduced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, will slip past the rings, along the cylinder walls into the sump. In this case, there will be no effect. In addition, some pallets are painted on the inside, and chemical compounds can react and corrode the paint, as a result of which flakes of peeling paint can clog the oil receiver grid, which in turn will lead to a drop in pressure in the oil system and failure of the entire power unit. ... So, at first glance, harmless independent decoking of piston rings and cleaning the engine from carbon deposits by means of auto chemistry can lead to disastrous results.

The next method is grandfather's and proven, without adding fluids and additives, to enable the engine to run under load at high speeds.

This safe method helps in the case of not strong carbon formation, and restores the mobility of the rings. The disadvantages include a possible memory photo for exceeding the speed limit.

If flushing, getting into the oil, allows you to clean the engine of all types of deposits, while disposing of them, and not spreading them throughout the oil system, restoring the elasticity of the oil seals and rubber seals, on the one hand, then the catalyst, getting along with the fuel into the combustion chamber, ensures complete combustion of fuel, including heavy fractions, as a result of which the combustion rate and its temperature increase, which makes it possible to burn out those deposits and soot that no chemical agent on the other hand is able to clean. The result of the complex effect is the complete decarbonization of the piston rings and the cleaning of the engine, pistons, combustion chamber and valves from carbon deposits. Both products are safe. Their effectiveness has been proven in practice. The Service-S-Auto technical center shared the results of the use of means for cleaning the engine and combustion chamber on the example of a 2006 Subaru Impreza car, with a 1.5-liter boxer engine, mileage 76,000 km. At the time of the visit, Subaru was increased consumption oils, fuels and smokiness. The compression results were: 8, 11, 11, 8. After applying the flush and catalyst, the compression became 12, 11.5, 11.5, 12. The alternative for the boxer is only with the removal of the motor.