We check the condition of the timing belt on a cold engine (15–35 ° C) every 15 thousand kilometers.
With a "5" hexagon, unscrew the four screws securing the front upper timing cover ...
... and remove the cover.
We hang out the right front wheel and turn on the fifth gear in the gearbox. Turning the wheel clockwise, we turn crankshaft engine and inspect the timing belt. With normal belt tension ...
... the cutout 1 of the outer disc of the tensioner roller must line up with the rectangular projection 2 of its inner sleeve.
The surface of the toothed part of the belt should not have folds, cracks, undercuts of teeth and peeling of fabric from rubber. The underside of the belt should be free of wear, exposing the cords, and traces of scorching. There should be no delamination or loosening on the end surfaces of the belt. If defects are found on the belt or a significant mismatch of the belt tension control elements (see photo above), the belt must be replaced. You should also change the belt to a new one if traces are found on it. engine oil(before installing a new belt, the cause of oil getting on the belt must be eliminated) or when replacing the coolant pump.
Failure of the timing belt (breakage and shearing of teeth) can lead to the valves sticking into the pistons due to the mismatch of the angles of rotation of the crankshaft and camshafts and, as a result, to expensive engine repairs.
Replacing the timing belt in accordance with the regulations Maintenance we carry out every 75 thousand km of run or in case of detection of defects on the belt. Remove the right front wheel and the right mudguard of the engine compartment (see).
Dismantle the alternator drive belt (see).
Remove the crankshaft position sensor (see).
Before dismantling the belt, it is necessary to check the valve timing of the engine - set the piston of the 1st cylinder to the TDC (top dead center) position of the compression stroke. For this…
... with the "17" head, we turn the crankshaft clockwise by the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...
… Until mark 1 on the camshaft toothed pulley aligns with lug 2 on the rear timing cover.
To make sure the crankshaft is in the correct position ...
… Remove the rubber plug of the sight glass at the top of the clutch housing.
Risk 2 on the flywheel should be located opposite the slot 1 of the scale on the upper cover of the clutch housing.
Before unscrewing the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...
… Ask the assistant to secure the crankshaft against turning by inserting a screwdriver through the window in the clutch housing between the flywheel teeth.
Using the "17" head, unscrew the bolt securing the alternator drive pulley ...
... remove the pulley ...
... and a puck.
With a "5" hexagon, unscrew the three screws securing the front lower timing cover ...
... and remove the cover.
Using a 15 spanner spanner, weaken the tightening of the tension roller bolt.
This will rotate the tension roller and release the belt tension. Remove the timing belt from the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys ...
… And remove the belt from the engine compartment.
After removing the timing belt, the crankshaft and camshafts must not be turned to avoid the pistons sticking into the valves.
Timing belt marking (width 17 mm, number of teeth 113).
To remove the belt tension roller, unscrew the bolt of its fastening ...
... and remove the tension roller.
To assess the condition of the idler roller bearing ...
… We rotate the plastic clip of the roller, holding it by the eccentric.
The roller should rotate quietly, evenly and without jamming. Otherwise, the roller must be replaced. We install the tension roller in place, completely without tightening the bolt of its fastening. For different modifications engine, two threaded holes are made in the cylinder head for the tension roller bolt.
Screw the roller mounting bolt into the upper hole of the cylinder head.
Install the timing belt in reverse order. Before installing the belt, make sure that the timing marks of the crankshaft and camshaft are aligned. We put the belt on the crankshaft toothed pulley, then ...
… While tightening both strands of the belt, we put the rear branch on the coolant pump pulley and put it behind the tension roller, and put the front branch on the camshaft pulley.
If necessary, turn the camshaft pulley in the direction of the smallest stroke until the belt teeth coincide with the pulley grooves. To tension the belt, turn the tension roller counterclockwise. To do this, we insert into the grooves of the outer disk of the roller ...
... rods (∅4 mm, distance between rods - 18 mm) of a special key (shown on the removed roller for clarity) ...
... or tips of circlip pliers.
We tighten the belt by turning the belt tension roller counterclockwise ...
... until the cutout of the outer disc of the roller coincides with the rectangular protrusion of its inner sleeve and tighten the roller mounting bolt to the required torque (see "").
Excessive belt tension will reduce belt life, as well as the coolant pump and idler roller bearings. Insufficient belt tension also leads to its premature failure and can cause a violation of the valve timing.
We turn the crankshaft two turns clockwise. We check the belt tension and the coincidence of the crankshaft and camshaft timing marks.
At removed pulley drive the generator, it is convenient to control the correct position of the crankshaft ...
Yesterday, one of our regular customers came to us on the recently acquired Kalina of the second generation, replacing the timing belt, roller and pump plus all fluids, but more on that in another article. Same way this engine was installed on Grant, so this article will be relevant for her as well. On the speedometer 60,000 and I believe that for this engine this is the optimal replacement interval, even though all the reference books say about 75,000.
Let's make a reservation right away that if the timing belt breaks on this car bends the valve. It is recommended to check the condition of the belt every 15,000 kilometers.
For work, we need a set of keys and heads, as well as a 5 hexagon and a key for the tension roller. The whole procedure takes about an hour and a half.
The engine is similar to the eighth.
First, remove the protection, drain the antifreeze and you can remove the right front wheel for convenience. Next, we loosen the lock nut of the alternator belt tensioner. Unscrew the tensioner pin with a 10 head and remove the belt.
We unscrew the four bolts with a 5 hexagon and remove the upper protective cover of the timing belt.
We set the top dead center (TDC). We twist the crankshaft by the pulley mounting bolt clockwise until the mark coincides with the camshaft sprockets and the timing case.
Unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt. We block the wheels with stops, tighten hand brake, turn on the fifth gear and with a slight movement of the key with a one and a half meter pipe extension, unscrew this bolt.
Remove the protective washer.
On the crankshaft sprockets, the marks should be aligned with the oil pump outflow.
Praise to the designers of AvtoVAZ, finally, rollers with a tension indicator appeared on the engines, now there is no need to pull it by eye and check the tension by twisting the belt, not even thirty years have passed since the invention of such a design. We unscrew the tension roller bolt and dismantle the latter as well as remove the old timing belt strap. The photo shows that the belt has stretched out as the tension marks have dispersed, when monitoring the condition of the timing belt, if you see this, you just need to tighten it.
To replace the pump, we need to remove the camshaft sprocket, and also unscrew a few bolts of the inner casing and remove it.
Three bolts down and a replacement pump. The green arrow indicates the tension roller bolt hole.
Having changed the water pump, we proceed to install a new timing belt.
We put the camshaft cover and sprocket in place. We check the coincidence of all the labels, they were mentioned above. We put the tension roller, but do not tighten the bolt. We put on a new belt, observe the direction of rotation, first on the crankshaft sprocket, camshaft, tension roller and pump, the latter can be swapped. We tighten the timing belt. With a special key, turn the roller counterclockwise, as indicated on its body ...
... until the marks on it coincide and tighten the bolt.
We turn the crankshaft two turns and again check the coincidence of the marks and the belt tension.
We install all the parts in the reverse order of removal, fill in antifreeze and start. It couldn't be easier.
Good luck on the road. Not a nail, not a rod!
Greetings to all! I am sure that this article will be very useful for the owners of Lada Granta with the 21116 engine installed on cars with the "norm" package. Before this article there were 3, I deleted them and decided to write this one so as not to confuse the chronology of events!
Let's start with the fact that my typewriter is one year old. During this year, there was little pleasant and not much. I ran 31 thousand kilometers. The main run of the MO Kashira, Stupino, Moscow, several trips to Tula.
I have long been tormented by the strange thumping of the engine on a cold one. I did not induce much panic, since the engine warmed up and the tapping disappeared. And at 29,000 kilometers, the tapping ceased to disappear after warming up, and even brought a crackling sound when starting off. Generator, exhaust system, CV joint, front bumper and it is not full list what i checked. The pump and the automatic timing belt tensioner remained, opened the cover, but saw nothing suspicious. I went to the service to see my friends with a more experienced eye. The pump said by the sound, opened the timing case and, for sure, the timing belt runs along the pulleys. Most of all I was afraid of this diagnosis, since there are no spare parts for Lada Grant at all. I climbed the forums and Drive2, found a couple of cases when the pump was installed from the priors, it was said that it differs only in the width of the pulley, and even then not by much.
And so it was necessary to buy:
Water pump 2170;
Automatic pulley tensioner timing belt 2190;
Timing belt 2190;
To my surprise, the timing belt for Grants was in almost every store, with a roller and a pump for ambush grants, as expected, no order delivery times are unknown.
I asked in the store to show the pump from the nine and the priors, I did not immediately notice the difference except for the width of the pulley and took on my grief from the nine.
Why it is impossible to put a pump from the nine on the 21116 Lada Granta engine:
If you look with a cursory glance at the VAZ-21116 and VAZ-2109 \ 14 pump, I assure you will not notice the difference, the VAZ-2109 \ 14 pump will have a slightly different impeller and there will be no small threaded hole for attracting the timing case, but this is not a problem, the most the main difference in the teeth of the pulley On the VAZ-21116 engine, the pulley migrated from the priors of the VAZ-21126, only it became a little narrower. On the Prior, the pulley comes with rounded teeth, and on the VAZ-2109 \ 14 with rectangular ones, and even more so they are a couple of millimeters higher, by installing this pump on the VAZ-21116 engine, you will push the timing belt and it will last ten times less. At the time of purchase, I did not know this and bought from nine.
The roller I bought from the Pilenga PT-P 1570 priors turned out to be the same by eye, except for the bolt hole on the side of the attachment to the engine. When I shot my own video, I realized that there is a big difference! Firstly, the native roller 21116 of a larger diameter, and secondly, it is already. The plastic body of the prior's roller is wider and it clings to the engine, this is solved by grinding off the excess with a grinder or like me grinder There is a difference in one more detail, the thickness of the metal body of the roller grants is wider than that of the priors, and therefore if you are going to put on the priors, you must put a washer. My conclusion is not optimistic: since the roller is from the priors of a smaller diameter than that of the grants, it is necessary to pull it further than the mark when stretching the roller and thereby actually deprive it of its automatic adjustment range.
Replacing the timing belt, roller and pump. Attempt # 1
Collected all the purchased parts in a package:
Automatic roller tensioner 21126 (2170) Pilenga PT-P 1570;
Water pump VAZ-2109 \ 14 TZA 21091307010-75
The total is 2540 rubles.
Previously, I myself did not have to change the timing, there was no time to study and I decided to drive it to the service. The whole thing was sorted out there. We got the pump, there is a backlash, but not so critical! Why did the timing belt walk? It is still not clear.
The bearing is also in excellent condition, the belt is also! I put my native parts in the trunk, put new ones. I start the car and hurray! The knock is gone, the belt sits like a glove! I paid 2000 rubles and went home happy.
In total, it cost me 4,500 rubles to change the timing consumables, thanks to the guys from AvtoVAZ.
You probably thought that everything is fine, the pump has been replaced and the car is now like new. No, no and no.
I came home and decided to inspect the engine compartment, everything is fine except for the overtightened alternator belt, well, there is nothing to adjust the tension, check it and go home (remember this moment).
In the morning he started to start and the bl * knock appeared again, tried to get under way, and the crackling also came after! Frustrated, I went to work. At work, a lot of reflections on this topic and then I come across a forum and pictures on the Internet! It shows pictures of water pumps and pulleys of priors and nines and shows the difference! I just have a hurricane of thoughts in my head. After work I fly home, open the timing belt, and yes ... the belt is clearly suppressed. On front side you can see the prints of the teeth ... change again.
Replacing the timing belt, roller and pump. Attempt # 2
This time I waited for the weekend, the moment of finding the wrong pump was on Thursday. Until Saturday dashed off a little more than 200 km. In total, I drove about 400 km. This time I decided to change everything myself. I went to the store again and bought a pump and a timing belt.
I put the parts in a bag and went home, the day was sunny, I decided not to even drive them into the garage.
Water pump TZA 21121307010-75
Timing belt VAZ 21116 (2190) Original 5670XS
The total is 1030r + 740r = 1770 rubles.
I will not describe the process of replacing the pump and timing belt, since there is a lot of literature on the repair and operation of which, by the way, I myself use.
What is the difference between the water pump VAZ-21116 and VAZ-21126.
They differ only in the width of the pulley, and even then a little. The video left his family, did not take risks with the Priorovsky, especially since his condition was ideal.
As a key for tensioning the roller, I used a circlip remover with flat jaws. The timing marks were set immediately and without any problems.
I saw from someone on Drive2 that the pump from the priors clings when the timing case is tightly tightened, I did not observe this, by eye I even determined a small gap between the pump pulley and the casing.
Engine knocking and crackling when starting off.
We sorted out the timing, started the engine, the belt sits rooted to the spot, the car clearly liked the pump from the priors! =) BUT! There was a knock and a crackling when starting off ... the smile disappeared from the face, but appeared after 10 minutes of poking around in the engine compartment! Remember I told you to remember the moment where I loosened the tension on the alternator belt! So! The first time I changed the timing in the service, the generator belt was pulled very tightly to me and it pressed the generator and the sound, respectively, disappeared! Arriving home, I relaxed the tension and the sound appeared again in the morning! That's the whole mystery!
Now the solution: my gaze rushed to the empty hole, the hole in which the lower bolt of fastening the generator to the bracket (long bolt) should sit, there is no bolt there! Damn, I knew that I would find where the crackle came from and that it was not design feature car! I began to look and understand, for some reason the bolt unscrewed and flew away. Of course, there were sins behind me when I forgot to tighten the details, but this was 3-4 times in my life, here it is impossible, since I was in no hurry and was poking around for pleasure!
I put a new bolt, put a control washer, now I think it will not go anywhere! How did I not notice it myself before ?! Started up and silence, the car works like new! Wow and she fucked me.
There is another unsolved mystery in this article! Why did the timing belt walk along the pulleys, I would not say that my own pump was badly killed. Well, okay now everything works pah-pah. I live outside the city, get to car dealerships by public transport problematic, it's good that we have Daewoo matiz 1.0 Best, it helps me out.
Bought with Grant at the same time. The mileage on Matiz is 24540 km, only oil and filters. Why do Uzbeks do better than us?
In total, with all the jambs, the timing change cost me 6,270 rubles ... the tin. The machine ran only 30,000 km.
Well, why are the French and Japanese silent? Renault + Nissan ayyyy! Why are there no spare parts on store shelves? Why did the timing belt run on the pulleys at 30,000 km?
The second method, using a suspended wheel, was described above. When the marks coincide, you need to remove the rubber plug located on the gearbox and open the inspection window. A flywheel is visible in it, the risk on it should also coincide with the slot on the body. Next stage- removing the belt from the generator drive pulley. To do this, loosen the lower bolt of this unit, and unscrew the upper one and pull it out.
Then the generator housing can be moved forward and the belt removed from the pulleys. Immediately, using the moment, you can examine the removed belt for defects and damage, and, if necessary, change it. This is followed by the operation to loosen the bolt holding the crankshaft pulley. It often happens that it is impossible to do this just like that with a spanner wrench, especially after the factory tightening. There are several ways.
- Insert a flat powerful screwdriver or a pry bar into the flywheel viewing window, blocking it. Holding the screwdriver with your right hand, loosen the pulley bolt with a 17 mm wrench with your left.
- If there is an assistant, the procedure is greatly simplified. One will turn on the 4th gear, press and hold the brake pedal, at this time the second will unscrew the pulley. It is much more convenient to do this, both hands are free to work.
- Some motorists put a spanner wrench on the pulley bolt and push it against some body or suspension element, after which they turn the crankshaft with a starter in neutral. The method is quite dangerous, it is permissible to use it in the most extreme case, when it is impossible to loosen the bolt by other methods.
After the bolt is unscrewed, the pulley is removed and the working part is wiped with a rag. Then you need to loosen the tension roller bolt, the belt tension will loosen and you can remove it. Since the roller must also be changed, it must be unscrewed. The last piece to remove is the lower mechanism cover, which is attached to the engine with three bolts.
This completes the disassembly of the unit. Before installing a new roller and timing belt, you need to make sure that the pump drive shaft rotates freely and does not wedge. Otherwise, you will have to make a decision to replace the coolant pump.
Reassembling the mechanism
The assembly process is carried out in the reverse order, only at the very beginning you need to make sure that the marks set earlier are in their places. Then a new tension roller is put on and a new timing belt is put on the gears, starting from the bottom, from the crankshaft. Supporting the belt in a slight tension by hand, put it on the camshaft gear so that all the teeth coincide, and then tighten it with a tension roller.
In its case there are 2 holes into which you can insert a special fork or round-nose pliers, with their help and stretch. Then tighten the roller bolt with medium force. In order to make sure of correct installation and belt tension, it is necessary to make a couple of full revolutions of the crankshaft, preferably not with a starter, but with a key. Then align the marks and check again the position of the marks in the flywheel inspection window.
There is one caveat: the risk on the camshaft gear can deviate by a couple of mm in one direction or another from the mark on the body, this is quite acceptable. If the belt is installed incorrectly, the discrepancy will be 1 cm, this is immediately noticeable. It is necessary to again loosen its tension and rearrange the belt one tooth to the right or left, and then repeat the operation. When the new belt is successfully installed and tensioned, the assembly can be reassembled.
When installing the generator drive belt, it should be remembered that there is no tensioning mechanism on the VAZ 2190. Therefore, the body of the unit is moved as close as possible to the cylinder block, the belt is put on its pulley completely, and partially on the crankshaft, after which it will need to be turned half a turn in order for the consumable to fit into place. Further assembly is not a problem, after which you can start the motor. The operation for such a replacement for a 16-valve Lada Grant engine is distinguished by such details.
- There are two camshafts, the marks will need to be combined, and then checked on two gears.
- You need to change 2 rollers: tension and bypass.
- The new belt will need to be carefully put on the two upper gears, passing it past the bypass roller, the process is somewhat more painstaking.
During the replacement work, it is recommended to pay attention to the cleanliness of the inside of the timing mechanism space. As a rule, dust, dirt, waste products of the old belt in the form of black powder and so on accumulate there. It will be correct to thoroughly wipe the motor housing, gears and protective cover from the inside.
The whole procedure is quite simple. Knowing how much to change the consumables of the timing mechanism and having a minimum set of devices, everyone can do it independently.
Replacement process fuel filter on Lada Grant
The list of TO 2 works and their cost for the Lada Granta car
The timing belt on the 8-valve grant is the link between the camshaft and the crankshaft. The Grant 8 valve timing belt acts as a flexible connection that ensures a quiet operation (the iron chain in old engines created decent noise).
The breakage of the timing belt on the Grant is accompanied by its gradual destruction. The complete destruction of the belt, at the time of the movement of the car, leads to a collision of the pistons with the valves, as a result of which the latter experience various kinds of damage, most often they bend. The only way to avoid damage to the valves is to prematurely replace the timing belt, the moment of which is registered in the car's service book.
Lada Grants 11183 engines, unlike engines of other VAZ models, need to be replaced with a timing belt every 60 thousand km. Replacing the belt with this mileage is solely the recommendation of the car manufacturer.
In order to achieve maximum safety and integrity of the car engine mechanisms, it is recommended to replace it every 40-50 thousand km. It is at this stage that the rollers and pump begin to wear out.
In most cases, a timing belt breakage does not occur as a result of complete wear of its structure, namely, the failure (wedge) of the rollers or the pump.
In the event that, nevertheless, the timing belt of the Lada Granta 8 valves broke, the following tools must be used to replace:
Key to "10";
key to "17";
mounting blade;
special key for adjusting the timing belt tension.
Performing work on replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve engine follows the instructions below. As for the 16-valve engine, the instructions are almost identical to the 8-valve one.
Preparing to replace the timing
Replacing the timing belt on an 8-valve engine begins directly by removing the terminals from the battery, after which we already remove the alternator drive belt. To replace the belt, you must have full access to the necessary aggregate units. For this access, the front right wheel must be removed.
Replacing the belt is preceded by the disassembly of the timing mechanism itself, namely the removal of its front top cover. Why is such an event held? It is necessary to set the first piston to TDC (Top Dead Center).
Adjusting the tension roller nut
It is the appropriate adjustment of the tension roller, or rather the use of the Lada Granta timing belt in a fixed tension, determines the resource of the timing belt Lada Granta.
To dismantle a used or torn timing belt, loosen the tension roller nut, as a result of which the belt will be brought into a weakened position. After that, you can proceed to the next stage.
Important: do not just try to cut the belt so as not to unscrew the tension bolts. In this case, you will not be able to fit the new belt onto the shafts.
Alternator drive pulley: unscrew the main alternator pulley bolt
You can unscrew the alternator pulley bolt with ordinary keys, which were mentioned above in the list necessary tools... If the bolt does not come out of the generator pulley, then the following steps must be performed:
Removing the plug in the clutch housing
The flywheel teeth are fixed with a mounting paddle, the presence of which was justified by a list of necessary tools.
After completing these steps, the generator pulley bolt will stop rotating, since the crankshaft will be fixed with a mounting blade.
Removing the alternator pulley
Dismantling the alternator pulley must be done immediately after removing the mounting blade. After dismantling is done, the pulley must be placed on a clean surface. Debris in the implement may cause it to jam.
Dismantling the lower timing cover
The process of dismantling the lower timing drive cover is carried out by removing three mounting bolts. This design takes place in the Grants 21116 engine models as well.
Dismantling the timing belt
The last stage is the dismantling of the timing belt with the subsequent determination of the condition of the tension roller. The belt dismantling process takes place in the following order:
Removing the timing belt from the timing pulley
Removing the belt from the crankshaft.
It is at the second stage that the Grant timing belt is dismantled along with the tensioner. We carry out a visual inspection of the roller, in particular, we determine the external condition and the level of backlash of the mechanism.
At the time of reassembling the lower timing cover, it is necessary to adjust the tension of the belt itself.
The reasons for the premature breakage of the belt on the Lada Grant remain a mystery, which is based not only on the low quality of the material used in the belt, but also on the poor assembly quality of the aggregate units through which the timing belt passes.
Among other reasons for the premature break of the timing belt, one can note the desire of the car manufacturer to keep up with Euro 3/4. It is the desire to fit the car to these standards that led to the aforementioned negative moments in the daily operation of the car.
Despite the manufacturer's claims about the quality of Grant, the timing belt and the threshold of his personal mileage of 200,000 thousand km, it is already torn by 70 - 80 thousand km. A good and worthwhile replacement is a Gates roller belt.
It is the Lada Granta from the priors that the timing belt will fit the Lada Granta and will not cause premature failure. The price of the timing belt on the Grant allows you to change it every 50,000 thousand km, which, in turn, will reduce the likelihood of other items of expense related to the repair of engine valves.
