The formation of carbon deposits and coke on engine parts and internal surfaces of its blocks is a natural process that cannot be avoided. At the same time, the appearance of carbon deposits increases the wear of the power unit and contributes to its failure. Is there a way to remove deposits without disassembling the engine? Of course! We'll show you how to do this below.
1 When to remove carbon deposits - the first symptoms
First of all, let's figure out how to determine that the engine needs cleaning from carbon deposits that have formed inside the cylinders and on its other parts. Fortunately, the problem manifests itself with the following symptoms:
- cold engine starts poorly;
- after starting from exhaust pipe there is heavy smoke, the engine has been troit for some time;
- exhaust gases have a specific burning smell;
- the dynamics of the car decreases, the engine does not pull well;
- excessive consumption of fuel appears;
- when the ignition is turned off, the fuel in the cylinders continues to ignite for some time, and strong vibrations... This phenomenon is called glow ignition, since the ignition of the combustible mixture occurs from a hot carbon deposit, and not a spark;
- The engine gets very hot.
If these signs appear, do not delay cleaning the engine, as the presence of carbon deposits can lead to more unpleasant consequences, such as burnout of valves, failure of the connecting rod-piston group. To prevent carbon deposits from forming on engine parts for as long as possible, use high-quality synthetic or semi-synthetic oils and be sure to change them in time.
2 We start with the combustion chamber - flushing the piston system
There are two types of engine cleaning with chemical compounds:
- mild - means the addition of various additives and cleaning agents to the fuel;
- hard - carried out by flushing the combustion chambers.
Gentle flushing can only be useful as a preventive measure, so we will not consider it. If you need to wash off the carbon deposits that have accumulated in the engine in large quantities (you have noticed that the above symptoms have appeared), harsh cleaning is required. To produce it, you need a special decoking liquid. It is often sold with compressed air in a can, syringe and tube. In this case, you will not need any other tools. If only liquid is included, the syringe and compressed air must be purchased separately.
We start flushing by warming up the engine to a temperature of at least 70 degrees. Then you need to unscrew all the candles, and also disconnect the center wire from the distributor. Be sure to mark the candlesticks high voltage wires, so as not to forget in what order they are connected to the cylinders. Next, you need to crank crankshaft so that all pistons are approximately at the same level. To do this, turn the pulley nut (below in the photo) or the drive wheel, after jacking it up.
Then in each cylinder it is necessary to pour the liquid for decoking using a syringe and a tube. The manufacturers indicate the volume of fluid required for each cylinder in the instructions. Next, tighten the plugs and leave the engine for a few hours. If the combustion chambers are heavily coked, wait 12 hours (it is advisable to turn the crankshaft periodically).
Next, pump out the remaining liquid from the cylinders using a tube and a syringe. Then blow out each cylinder with compressed air. Then you should press the gas pedal all the way and turn the crankshaft with the starter for five to ten seconds. Finally, reconnect all ignition wires and start the engine. Let the motor run for five or ten minutes. At first, a slight smoke is possible, but do not be alarmed, this will burn out the cleaning agent that remains in the engine.
Keep in mind that the above operation only removes carbon deposits in the combustion chambers. However, deposits appear on other engine parts as well. To get rid of them, it is necessary to flush the lubrication system.
3 Cleaning the lubrication system - we will not leave the soot a chance
Flushing the lubrication system can be done in several ways:
- a "five-minute" additive;
- oil "five minutes";
The easiest way is to flush the engine with the so-called five minutes. If an additive is used for these purposes, then it is simply added to the motor, and then the engine runs for 5 minutes for Idling, after which the old oil with the additive is drained, the filter is changed, and a new fluid is poured. Approximately, the engine is flushed with a five-minute oil, but it should not be mixed with old oil. Those. first, you need to drain the old oil and only then fill in the flushing oil. The motor should run on it for 5 minutes in idle mode, after which the flushing is drained and new grease is poured. Please note that in no case can you ride on a five-minute ride.
A better result can be achieved with flushing oil, on which the car must travel about a hundred kilometers. This composition is filled in instead of the old oil. Please note that this grease must be driven in the break-in mode, as it has weak protective properties. Then the flushing oil is drained and the usual one is poured.
As you can see, it is not at all difficult to clean the engine from carbon deposits, at the same time, this procedure can significantly extend the service life of the internal combustion engine. You shouldn't neglect it!
The formation of carbon deposits and coke in a gasoline or diesel engine is a natural process under conditions of high combustion temperatures of a fuel-air mixture in a closed chamber. In fact, carbon deposits are a layer of unburned deposits on the walls of the combustion chamber of the power unit. Over time, carbon formation and coking of the engine progresses, at a certain point becoming the cause of a number of malfunctions and malfunctions.
Next, we will consider the main symptoms by which you can yourself determine the coking of the engine and the need for further cleaning of the cylinders from coke, and also talk about how and how to clean the engine from carbon deposits with your own hands.
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Carbon deposits in the engine: the main signs
As already mentioned, carbon deposits and coke are formed in the combustion chamber during fuel combustion. Coke in the engine is a dense deposit on the surface of the working chamber walls. Such deposits are caused by exposure to high temperatures in the absence of sufficient air.
Carbon deposits are small friable fractions of the same coke, which are separated from the total mass. In addition to coking of the engine, it gets into the combustion chamber engine oil... Usually lubricant can enter the cylinder through piston rings, as well as in case of certain problems. In the second case frequent problem valve seals (valve stem seals) become.
In the list of the main malfunctions that arise when the engine cokes, experts note the following:
- the engine does not start well "cold";
- after starting, the motor is observed and / or;
- in some cases, the exhaust has a specific burning smell;
- oil consumption increases;
- the engine loses power;
- excessive fuel consumption is observed;
- on high revs overheating of the engine may also occur;
During gas re-gasings, especially on a car with a faulty or removed catalyst, you can notice particles of burning that escapes from the exhaust pipe. Also, the car sluggishly reacts to pressing the gas pedal, the engine "does not pull" under load, etc.
Engine coking: possible consequences
It is quite obvious that carbon deposits reduce efficiency and impair the overall performance of the motor. In parallel, there is a risk of serious damage to the internal combustion engine. For example, critical situations can be considered those when rings strongly coke or the short-circuit () effect occurs. In the first case, the valve cannot close completely due to a thick layer of carbon deposits, a decrease in compression in the engine also occurs, the motor begins to triple, and starts poorly. Quite often, resulting in costly repairs.
As for the short circuit, this phenomenon causes uncontrolled ignition of the mixture in the engine cylinders from smoldering carbon deposits. In other words, the charge will not ignite from the ignition spark in gasoline engine or from contact with air heated from compression, but spontaneously. As a result, the motor overheats, significant damage is caused, etc.
To prevent negative consequences, it is recommended to periodically clean it for preventive purposes, that is, to prevent an abundant accumulation of deposits. Also, after the first symptoms appear, you can clean the already coked engine from carbon deposits, that is, carry out the procedure for decoking the engine. Let's take a closer look at how to clean the carbon deposits in the engine yourself.
Methods for flushing the engine from carbon deposits and coke
To begin with, the engine can be cleaned in two ways, which can be roughly divided into the following:
- engine cleaning with active chemicals;
- mechanical removal of coke deposits after disassembling the internal combustion engine and subsequent flushing;
Immediately, we note that on flushing oils and various fuel additives (up to connecting the motor to a separate tank with a special cleaning agent bypassing fuel tank) we will not focus attention. The fact is that these solutions help to maintain the fuel system, lubrication system, combustion chamber and other "internals" of the engine in relative cleanliness only in the case of new or initially clean engines (for example, units after a complete overhaul). If the engine has already been coked, then such methods will not bring the desired effect and can only worsen the situation.
To clean the internal combustion engine from carbon deposits, it is necessary to carry out a more "stringent" procedure for decoking the piston rings and the engine, clean the combustion chamber as efficiently as possible, etc. We add that this method of cleaning the engine from coke and deposits is very popular among motorists due to the fact that it avoids disassembling the engine.
- In the beginning, you will need to unscrew the spark plugs on gasoline internal combustion engines or on a diesel engine.
- Next, you need to fill special liquid(the so-called decarbonization) into the engine cylinders through the spark plug wells.
- Then the unit with the flooded cleaning is left for several hours. The result is a coke and carbon scrubber that softens engine deposits.
- After screwing in the candles and further starting the engine after decoking, the washed carbon deposits simply burn out in the cylinders.
The final stage of flushing the internal combustion engine is the obligatory replacement of the engine oil and the oil filter, since the aggressive composition enters the crankcase and makes the filled oil unusable.
You can read in more detail about the procedure for decoking the engine in, where the process of cleaning the engine from carbon deposits is described in detail using a diesel engine as an example. We also note that in free sale there are various means for decoking piston rings and cleaning the combustion chamber. The composition called "Lavr" has gained wide popularity among domestic consumers.
Now let's talk about mechanical cleaning. This method allows you to achieve maximum engine cleanliness, and also is devoid of those disadvantages that are present when cleaning with "chemistry". In other words, the motor is disassembled, after which the coke and carbon deposits are removed from the surfaces manually, using tools by grinding, as well as using active detergents. This approach allows you to clean not only the rings and individual sections of the combustion chamber, but also the valves, as well as other hard-to-reach elements. In parallel with this, the oil channels of the engine lubrication system are washed, the cavities in the crankcase, the oil receiver, the oil receiver mesh filter, etc. are cleaned.
What is the bottom line
It is quite obvious that the main disadvantage of the mechanical method is the complexity and impressive amount of work. For this reason, drivers rarely agree to disassemble the engine just to clean the unit from carbon deposits and carbon deposits. Most often, this procedure is performed during overhaul engine.
Finally, I would like to add that it is highly advisable to consult with the minders before you decide to clean the engine of coke and rinse the combustion chambers from carbon deposits. The fact is that even the most aggressive chemicals do not completely remove deposits.
As a result, there is a risk of clogging of the channels by particles separated from the total mass. Otherwise, in some cases it is better not to clean the motor at all, which will allow it to be operated further for some time. If you try to wash such an engine from carbon deposits with special cleaners, then the likelihood of its immediate subsequent repair greatly increases.
Read also
How to flush the engine yourself with diesel fuel or kerosene before changing the engine oil. Advantages and disadvantages of cleaning, features of flushing the engine with diesel fuel.
Also, engine oil and other technical fluids have a negative effect on rubber and plastic elements under the hood (wiring insulation, covers, seals, all kinds of plugs, etc.). If in the case of plastic there is a risk of spoiling appearance element, then rubber products soften, crack and collapse, that is, they cease to perform their functions.
For this reason, experienced car enthusiasts try to avoid heavy contamination of the engine. To solve the problem, some drivers practice washing the engine with Karcher, others wash the engine with dry steam. Also, many car owners prefer to wash the unit on their own, that is, at home. Moreover, in all cases, the main task is to prevent damage to electrical equipment as a result of moisture ingress. For this you need to know.
However, this is not all. In order to obtain better results after washing the engine, special cleaning compounds should be carefully selected. In this article, we will talk about how to wash the engine from the outside, as well as which engine oil cleaner is better to choose.
Read in this article
Engine cleaner from oil and dirt: why is it needed and features of choice
To begin with, dust and other contaminants that enter the engine compartment from the outside are not the main problem. Most often, the need to wash the engine arises due to the fact that the engine and transmission oil, working fluid brake system, Power steering, etc. in the process of active operation, it flows out.
Quite often, the driver himself spills oil, antifreeze or brake fluid past the filler neck. As a result, the material falls on the outer surface of the engine, the engine compartment becomes dirty. Further, the dust begins to actively adhere to the created streaks, forming a dense layer of oily dirt.
In high heat conditions, such dirt spreads intensively over surfaces. As a result, the thermal mode of the engine operation can be violated and. It is quite obvious that it will be difficult to wash off such contaminants with plain water, soap solutions or car shampoos.
At the very least, it will take a long time to get any result. For this reason, it is optimal to use a special cleaner for the external surface of the engine for these purposes. Given the fact that there are a lot of similar compositions on the sale for removing deposits, dirt and oil drips, do right choice can be difficult.
Moreover, each manufacturer promises that its composition will be the best solution. In this case, in practice, it may turn out that the product does not cope with the task at hand or allows only partially washing off the dirt. For this reason, a review and test of engine cleaners helps to determine the choice.
The best external cleaner for oil and deposits from the engine surface: test and comparison of popular formulations
As already mentioned, today on the market there are a large number of means for washing and cleaning internal combustion engines from the outside. Among the most famous solutions, it is worth highlighting the external engine cleaner Runway, Felix, Turtle Wax, Sintec, Kerry, Mannol, Kangaroo, 3ton, Grass, Abro, Liqui Moly, ASTROhim.
As you can see, there are really many compositions, there are products of domestic and foreign manufacturers. To select the most effective solutions from a popular list, experts have carried out comparative test engine cleaners.
In short, specially prepared dirt was applied to the previously prepared aluminum plates, which served as an imitation of the surface of the cylinder block and cylinder head. To prepare the pollution, the engine oil was worked off, then fine sand and salt were added there.
Additionally, separate scrapings of dirt were taken from real engines, after which everything was thoroughly mixed into a homogeneous mass. After applying such a mixture to the plate, it was placed in a thermal oven, where it was baked for 2 hours at a temperature of about 90 degrees Celsius, which is close to the actual heating of the ICE surfaces during operation.
How to wash and dry the motor yourself with improvised means. Basic tips and tricks for a safe do-it-yourself engine wash.
The formation of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber of the engine is mainly associated with low-quality fuel. As a result of incomplete combustion of this fuel, carbon deposits appear on the walls of the chamber and piston crowns.
When carbon deposits reach a certain mass, a large number of problems may arise in the operation of components and assemblies.
Consider the main signs of engine pollution, how to find out about the need to remove carbon deposits, how and how to clean power unit.
Key Signs of Engine Deposits
Carbon deposits and coke are the main products in the combustion of low-quality fuel. Under the influence of high temperature, when the amount of air is not enough for complete combustion of the fuel-air mixture, coke is formed. It settles as dense deposits on the surface of the combustion chamber walls. Small particles that separate from the coke form carbon deposits.
An important role in carbon formation is assigned to engine oil, which, in case of insufficient tightness of the engine components (piston rings, valve seals), enters the combustion chamber. Burning along with the fuel, the oil accelerates the deposit build-up process.
Carbon deposits in the engine lead to the following main malfunctions:
- problems with the "cold" start of the engine;
- a running engine smokes, does not work stably;
- exhaust gases mixed with burning;
- increased oil consumption;
- loss of power;
- increased fuel consumption;
- detonation and overheating of the engine at high speeds
Potential effects of carbon deposits in the engine
It not only reduces work efficiency, degrades overall performance, leads to high consumption fuels and lubricants, but also increases the risk of serious engine damage and, as a result, costly repairs. The main possible examples of such consequences are:
- carbon deposits on the valves - the valve cannot close completely.
- deposits on the rings - the occurrence of rings occurs.
- the effect of potash ignition - uncontrolled ignition of the mixture from smoldering.
All of these examples can lead to critical situations. With strong coking of the valves and rings, the valve does not close completely, the rings become stuck, the compression in the engine decreases. As a result, the engine starts poorly, malfunctions, valves burn out - there is a need for expensive repairs.
Potash ignition provokes uncontrolled ignition of the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders. The fuel ignites uncontrollably, the reason for this behavior is smoldering carbon deposits that ignite gasoline or diesel fuel. The engine overheats, there is increased wear of parts of the power unit, fuel system, exhaust system.
To protect the engine from negative consequences, it is necessary to periodically flush it from accumulated deposits and slags. After the appearance of characteristic signs, you can clean the already clogged motor. Let's consider how to clean the carbon deposits in the engine yourself.
Carbon deposits and coke are the main ways to get rid of them from the engine
There are two main options that can be used to clean the motor, let's take a look at each of them:
- clean the power unit with any flushing agent;
- disassemble the engine and mechanically remove deposits
As for flushing oils and fuel additives, this cleaning will remove small deposits in fuel system, lubrication system, combustion chamber and other places only if the contamination is negligible. Otherwise, in case of severe contamination, the deposits will not be washed off with such additives and the cleaning effect will not be achieved. Sometimes it is even possible to aggravate the situation and cause harm.
Many motorists are interested in the question of how to flush the engine from carbon deposits without disassembling? Therefore, we will consider a method in which the unit does not need to be disassembled.
- We unscrew spark plugs on gasoline cars, or potash plugs on diesel.
- We fill in the cylinders through the candle wells with a special liquid "decarbonization".
- We wait a few hours - the cleaner softens the deposits.
- We screw in the candles and start the engine. The softened carbon deposits are burned out and removed from the cylinders.
After carrying out this procedure, it is impossible to use the oil remaining in the engine and the oil filter, they must be replaced. Getting into the crankcase of the engine, the washed composition saturates the oil and the filter with abrasive particles that are aggressive towards the cylinders.
To achieve the maximum effect of engine cleanliness, it is necessary to use a mechanical cleaning method. Its principle is simple - the motor is disassembled and cleaned of carbon deposits and coke by hand using an abrasive tool. Then it is washed with detergents with high surface activity. This method allows you to clean all hard-to-reach engine elements, including the lubrication channels and other elements.
Benefits of cleaning the engine without disassembly
Obviously, the main advantage is that there is no need to disassemble the power unit. Mechanical disassembly- a complex and time-consuming process that requires an impressive amount of work. Performing it only for the sake of cleaning carbon deposits is impractical. This procedure is typical when performing a major overhaul of the motor.
It should be noted that before performing the cleaning procedure, it is worth seeking advice from professional minders. A completely cleaned engine is beyond the power of even very strong chemicals, and improper use of it can cause damage.
The most common risk is clogging of the canals by particles separated from carbon deposits. Sometimes, with such a development of events, it is better not to touch the engine - this will allow it to operate for some more time. Otherwise, when trying to wash it, the likelihood of subsequent repair is very high.
Effective flushing of the engine. Engine Cleaning Methods That Really Work
How to keep your engine lubrication system clean for years to come. After all, this factor is one of the most important for the health of the engine when operating a car. What is it for, let's figure it out. Sludge, slag, carbon are all the result of the combustion process in the engine. When we buy a car, due to lack of time, money, etc., we simply forgets about competent car maintenance. And this is delayed for a long time, during which the sludge in the form of combustion products settles on the engine parts. Due to which their friction increases - metal on metal, respectively, destruction occurs.
The oil filter does not always cope with its task and microparticles that did not fall under the filter begin to circulate in the engine, causing microscopic scratches, damage to the cylinder walls and bearings. Valves begin to stick, hydraulic lifters knock, piston operation is disrupted, causing engine vibrations. Then the car owner wonders why the engine is eating oil in liters per 1000 km. where is this high consumption fuel. Here is the result of the owner's inaction, see the picture below. This motor has not passed even 30,000 km. Look in what condition it is.
Why flush the engine
What to do you ask ?! And do nothing, you need to rinse, that's all.
Many are skeptical about flushing the engine, for good reason. A lot of junk appeared on the market, allegedly flushes, which in their composition contain an ultra-high solvent and are in no way suitable for the engine. Never mind cheap flushes.
DO NOT take the first one from the store shelf.
A good flushing is a product that will restore compression in the engine cylinders, effectively work to remove sludge, dirt, and not only let it fall off, but also dissolve it, which will not clog the channels and easily be removed from the mixture system.
Same way good flushing must cover all microscopic defects in the motor, and restore both oil seals, and all rubber seals.
The pros and cons of flushes for the engine.
Poor flushing:
- Corrosion of the stuffing box due to engine leakage
- Loss of compression
- Increased oil consumption
- power loss
- clogged channels in the engine
Pros of good flushing:
- Engine compression restored (You can do a test before and after use)
- reduced fuel and oil consumption
- Cleaning from sludge
- The car becomes more acceptable, easier
- Engine noise is reduced
- TUV RUF ROHS approved
Methods for cleaning a car engine
Let's take a look at several ways to effectively clean the engine from carbon deposits and sludge.
1. In spare parts stores you can find products such as motor oil with a viscosity of SAE 40. This is a seasonal summer product that has an even higher detergency and effectively cleans the engine.
Drain used engine oil and refill without changing oil filter... Start the engine and idle for about 15-30 minutes, you can take a little ride.
Then drain the oil, most likely it will be black, as it will collect all the dirt that has collected on the walls, parts, etc. Repeat everything done before until the color of the oil is the same as you filled it in.
This is one of better ways flush the engine, and after the clean oil is drained, you will be sure that the engine is clean.
Result. After this method of flushing in the motor troubled Ford Explorer 1992 oil and fuel consumption decreased, the engine became quieter, the car became smoother and more responsive.
2.
The second way is to wash the motor well.
Flush from Liquid Moli Engine flush - in the common people, has long deserved recognition. It is poured into the engine in used oil, the engine is warmed up for about 10 minutes and then drained. excellent, easy-to-use product, and most importantly effective.
Always take it as a consumable when changing engine oil. Long-term flushing is also suitable here if everything is really bad.
Fill it 300 km away. before the shift, the cleaning has already begun.
Lambda Oil Primer.
Here's another cool and super effective car engine flush thing - Lambda Oil Primer.
This product is TUV, ROHS and VAG approved. It works well in restoring the compression of the motor. Many who used it just wanted to do a compression test before and after use. The results were excellent after washing. Perfect cleanliness and operation of the motor, as well as its subsequent protection.
It is used in gasoline and diesel engines... One of the best premium flushes in the world.
As for the characteristics of the product:
Effectively cleans the oil lubrication system, preventing problems associated with the accumulation of sludge, dirt, deposits. After cleaning, a clean oil is guaranteed in a clean engine for many kilometers.
It is used in both the engine and gearboxes and differentials. It contains a lubricant that protects mechanical parts during the cleaning process.
Suitable for all types of modern and old benz. and diz. engines. added to any engine oil.
