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Safety and reliable movement by car is possible when performing periodic technical inspections. Life time vehicle largely depends on the availability of high-quality lubricating fluid in all systems.

A manual transmission is needed to transmit and change torque from the engine to the wheels. If it is in good working order, this process is carried out smoothly, comfortably and dynamically. And for this to become a reality, the motorist must constantly check the level transmission fluid and monitor her condition.

How to extend the life of a gearbox?

To extend the service life of a manual transmission, regular inspection of the lubricant level, the presence of impurities, dirt, sediment in its composition will help. Having detected changes in the transmission fluid, an immediate oil change in the manual transmission should be performed on a Ford Mondeo.

Ford recommends changing the oil for Ford Mondeo every 80 - 90 thousand kilometers. These recommendations are ideal for moderate to relatively warm climates, stable temperatures and excellent road conditions.

If the car is constantly exposed to increased loads, is operated in regions with sharp temperature changes, with an aggressive driving method, the quality of the lubricant is significantly reduced. In difficult driving conditions, to extend the life of the gearbox, oil change in manual transmissions for Ford Mondeo is reduced to 50-60 thousand kilometers.

When purchasing fluid for manual transmission, you should use the original synthetic transmission oil SAE 75W-90, volume 1.75 liters. When changing the lubricant, a little more is required - 2 liters. In the absence of the original product, you can use analogs:

  • LIQUI MOLY 75W-90;
  • Motul GEAR 300 75W-90;
  • Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75w-90;
  • MT1L COMMA.

The durability and reliability of the lubrication system depends on the correctly selected transmission oil in the manual transmission. If the level of the liquid has decreased, but its color has not changed, it will be enough just to top up consumable into the gearbox.

If significant changes in the composition of the oil are detected, when it becomes cloudy or darkened, the smell of burning, the lubricant should be completely replaced, taking into account the viscosity parameters and the above types of oil for the Ford Mondeo manual transmission.

To extend the life of the gearbox will help:

  • Correct operation of the vehicle.
  • Inspection of the mechanical box for leaks - about once a year.
  • Checking the fluid level every 15 thousand km, if necessary - topped up.
  • Complete oil change with a mileage of 60 - 70 thousand km.
  • Application in manual transmissions of fluids recommended by the manufacturer.
  • It is forbidden to mix the transmission with another compound, in order to avoid rapid wear of the parts.

Subject to all instructions, the manual transmission will not fail in its work during the operation of the car.

Step-by-step instructions for changing the oil in the manual transmission

So, the owner of the car discovered a change in the quality of the oil, or the recommended mileage was simply reached. In these situations, a decision should be made to replace the fluid in mechanical box gear.

In order not to waste time looking for tools during the replacement procedure, everything must be prepared before starting the lubricant change. The required list of tools for changing the oil in a manual transmission in Ford Mondeo includes:

  • Socket heads for 8 and 19;
  • A set of keys of different sizes;
  • Syringe;
  • Waste fluid container;
  • Overalls and rubber gloves, goggles;
  • Clean rag;
  • New transmission;
  • Observation pit or overpass.

Having prepared the necessary tools and materials, you can perform draining old oil from manual transmission in Ford Mondeo:

  • Warm up power unit and the gearbox to operating temperature. Warming up will help to quickly drain the used grease;
  • Install the machine on a viewing pit or overpass;
  • Using a 19 head, unscrew the crankcase protection bolts, if any;
  • Dismantle the cover that covers the gearbox mechanism;
  • Unscrew the filler plug with a key;
  • Install a container for the old fluid;
  • Unscrew the drain plug;
  • Drain the waste material;
  • Wipe up any drips of used oil with a clean cloth.

In order for all the liquid to drain, you must wait at least 15 minutes. After the specified time has elapsed, screw on the plug. There is a magnet on the oil drain plug. It must be carefully inspected and cleaned of metal particles and dirt adhering to it.

A fault in the manual transmission is indicated by a magnet with a large amount of dirt. In this situation, it is necessary to carefully check the gearbox and remove the damage. Clean the transmission before adding new oil.

The flushing mixture is poured, running it through the entire transmission system, turning on the power unit for 10 - 15 minutes. With the engine off, drain the flush. If necessary, repeat the flushing until a clear solution appears.

To complete the entire process of changing the lubricant, it remains to fill the manual transmission with new oil recommended by the car manufacturer Ford Mondeo. The maximum volume for a Ford Mondeo manual transmission is two liters of grease.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring new oil:


Having fastened the crankcase protection in place, it is necessary to check the car in operation. To do this, it is necessary to check the gear shifting in all positions when driving. Upon completion of all stages of the process of replacing transmission material, you should check its level. When the fluid rate decreases, it is necessary to top up a new transmission.

Why can oil leak?

When checking the amount of lubricant, you will need a dipstick. There are special measuring symbols Max and Min on it. By checking the amount of oil with the dipstick, you can determine if it needs to be refilled or drained for replacement. The level can be used to determine if there is a leakage of lubricant.

An oil leak in a Ford Mondeo manual transmission may occur for the following reasons:

  • Unsuitability of oil seals;
  • Shaft wear;
  • Loosening of the bolts that connect the gearbox elements;
  • Unsuitable seal.

A low level of lubrication leads to abnormal noise, which can be avoided by regularly checking the oil in the gearbox.

An oil leak, which the driver can eliminate by himself:

  • Loose nut on transmission drain. It is enough to grip it tightly.
  • Incorrect installation of the dipstick. The skewed dipstick does not close the channel well and oil starts to flow out during operation. Eliminate the leak - put the dipstick correctly.
  • Sensor not fully clamped reverse... It is necessary to tighten the sensor well and the oil will stop flowing.
  • Excessive oil creates additional pressure, which causes the lubricant to leak. It is necessary to drain the excess liquid.
  • Leakage through the cover indicates a defective sealing element. It is necessary to replace the gasket.

The listed reasons for the loss of oil can be easily eliminated by yourself. But there are reasons for lubricant leaks, which are not always possible to eliminate quickly by the owner of the car with his own hands.

Oil leakage also occurs for the following reasons- wear of the oil seals, clogging of the channels for removing excess air (cleaning the breather), wear of the seal on the drive:

  • Long-term operation of the oil seals makes the rubber base unusable, therefore, the fluid pressure does not hold.
  • When the transmission is operating, overpressure is generated and the breather maintains the pressure at an optimum level.
  • It is impossible to replace the seal on the drive on your own. This requires the use of special equipment that can be found in the service station.

In most cases, a motorist can repair a lubricant leak on his own. To do this, it is enough to correctly establish the cause of the loss of fluid. If it is impossible to eliminate the leak on your own, you must contact the specialists of the Technical Service Station.

If you look into history, you can see analogs of information disagreements on the oils used for automatic transmissions.

These are transmission oils of the same Toyota. Earlier, D III was poured into the boxes, on the probes of which D II was written. Then, in 2002, all of Taeta's services began to unanimously recommend pouring into boxes, on the probes of which D III, Tranzmax Z was written. To the question, why ... why, the answer was truly wonderful:
on mineral D III you will change ATF every 40,000-60,000 km, and on Transmax Z - once every 100,000!

And after all, many were led. But for some reason the expected effect in terms of smoothness of switching was not observed.

Exactly everything was the same with Nissan. Lily didn’t even know grief. But suddenly, in official and decent services, they began to persistently recommend pouring Matic D. DIII cost almost 220 rubles / l, Matic D - 500 and more. Apparently, some of the leaders of Nissan had children and for them it was necessary to save up a few more billion dollars so that they would not shoot at their father for "sailing on a yacht."

But active followers of using ONLY ORIGINAL were led to this. Well, no question, it would be babos.

Shaw we see with a lag of 10 years on the Volvo, Saab and other Opel with GM?

Same.

Previously, automatic transmission manufacturers recommended oil for their products that meets specification 3309 (mineral water, costs about 270 r / liter at retail), now they recommend it based on synthetics with a cost far from 500 rubles / liter. retail for, like, not the original, but for the ORIGINAL from 800 rubles / liter. At the same time, when you answer the question "listen, wha, what's the difference", you will be hung with noodles about organoleptic differences. Like, to the touch, evona, new crap drips worse from the finger that we dip into it, i.e. stays longer on lubricated surfaces !!! Well, isn't it nonsense ???

Indeed, in fact, the gland does not care deeply where it was produced and where it was then installed. Made in Japan, installed on an American car ... Good health. Approvals for use lubricating fluids are universal for any iron, because iron is designed specifically for tolerances. There is a specification for oil and it is it that is put, among other things, in the basis of the TK (technical assignment, in this case for the automatic transmission). NO OTHER WAY. Those. tasks are formed based on the realities existing on the market, incl. realities combustible lubricants... NO OTHER WAY.

So sho will you pour mineral 3309 or synthetic AW-1 or further intergalactic "Constellation Ant" clusters blah blah blah - all the same. Only everyone has enough dough. One candle changes every 30,000 km for 2,500 rubles. the original and replacement, apparently, are still the same. What problems? Change the ashtray with the car at least every year. I don't see any difficulties.

For those who are especially inquisitive, I will write ATF automatic transmissions corresponding to the AW-1 specification (while everything is the same in banks):

Volvo 31256774
Toyota Type WS-1
GM 93165147
OPEL 1940773
SWAG 81929934

Specification 3309:
Mobil 3309
Toyota T-IV
Ford WSS-M2C924-A

And pour what you want. At least, I'm sorry, Motul (by the way, very good, but wildly expensive)

Engine oil must be replaced every 10,000 km.
For a new car, it is necessary to change the oil after the end of the running-in (after 2500 km). When changing the oil, be sure to install a new one. oil filter(engine ZMZ-4062) or its filter element (all engines). Oil change procedure see subsections 2.3.2, 2.3.2.2 and 2.3.3.3 .

Into the crankcase it is recommended to fill in oil of the same brand as was in the engine. If another brand of oil is poured in, you must first flush the engine lubrication system with the oil of the same brand that will be poured into the engine. To do this, drain the old oil, fill in new oil 2–4 mm above the “0” mark on the oil level indicator (dipstick). Start the engine and let it run for Idling about 10 min. Then drain the oil, replace the oil filter or its filter element and fill with fresh oil.

Coolant must be changed once every 2 years or after 60,000 kilometers (whichever comes first). Coolant replacement procedure see subsection 2.4.4... It should be borne in mind that the coolant is poisonous, so it should not be sucked in by mouth when transfusing. It is recommended to wear protective goggles when working with coolant and not to smoke or eat. If liquid comes into contact with exposed skin, wash with soap and water.

Gearbox oil must be replaced after 60,000 km. Oil change procedure see in subsections 3.3.2 and 3.4.2 ... Every 20,000 km, check the oil level in the gearbox and top up if necessary. The oil level in the crankcase must reach the edge of the filler hole. If the drained oil contains metal particles or is very dirty, flush the box. To do this, pour 0.9 liters of fresh oil into its crankcase. Jack up the rear of the vehicle. Start the engine and, engaging first gear, let it run for 2-3 minutes. Then drain the oil and refill with fresh oil. When checking the oil level, you need to clean the surface of the breather from dirt and turn its cap several times to remove dirt that has got under it.

Crankcase oil rear axle must be changed after 60,000 km. The oil is changed in the same way as in the gearbox. After 20,000 km, check the oil level in the crankcase and top up if necessary. The oil level should be up to the edge of the filler hole. When checking the oil level, the breather must be cleaned of dirt in the same way as was done for the gearbox.

A warning

Do not use re-drained brake fluid.

Brake fluid in the clutch and brake drives, it is necessary to change once every 2 years, regardless of the vehicle's mileage. In clutch and brake drives, brake fluids of domestic production "Rosa", "Rosa-3", "Tom", "Neva" or their foreign counterparts on a non-oil basis, the quality level of which is not lower than dot-3, are used. Use other brands of fluids, especially petroleum based fluids, prohibited.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and must therefore not be stored in an open container.

The procedure for replacing the brake fluid is as follows:

1. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir cover.

2. Remove the rubber protective caps from the air release valves on the wheel cylinders and put rubber hoses on the valves, the ends of which are lowered into glass vessels.

3. Unscrew the valves no more than one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way down, drain the fluid. As the flow of fluid from the hoses stops, tighten the air release valves.

4. Pour the drained brake fluid from the vessels and put them back in place.

5. Pour fresh fluid into the reservoir of the master cylinder, unscrew all the air release valves one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way, fill the brake system. In this case, you need to constantly add fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. After a clean brake fluid, screw on the valves.

6. Bleed the brake system to remove air from it ( see subsection 6.9).

7. Close the brake master cylinder reservoir with a plug. Remove hoses from air release valves and put protective caps on them.

In the same way, replace the fluid in the clutch hydraulic drive.

Ford Mondeo 4 Change manual transmission oil or automatic transmission fluid

The design of gearboxes does not provide for an oil (working fluid) change during the entire service life of the vehicle. However, sometimes the need to change the oil (working fluid) may arise, for example, when changing to an oil of a different viscosity, when repairing a gearbox, etc.). It is recommended to drain the oil (liquid) within 15 minutes after the ride, until it has cooled down and has good fluidity.

Manual transmission oil mod. The iB5 is drained as follows. You will need: "8", "19" sockets, "8" hex wrench, syringe, wide oil drain container. NOTES: Fill the gearbox with the oil recommended by the manufacturer according to the specification Ford. If it is not available, Castrol or Mobil gear oils of API GL-4/5 SAE 80W-90 quality class can be used as a substitute. SAE oil 75W. (see Removing and installing a mudguard and engine crankcase protection).

2. Remove the gear shift cover (see Replacing the Transmission Control Cables).

3. It is recommended to remove the cover of the gear change mechanism, as the oil drained from the gearbox will spread inside the cover and then, pouring out of it, contaminate the working area. To do this, unscrew the three cover bolts and remove it.NOTE: If you have a device for collecting the escaping oil (such as a funnel), the gearshift cover does not need to be removed.

4. Remove the oil drain plug ...

5 .... place a container under the opening and drain the oil into it. Wait until the oil is completely drained (at least 15 minutes) and replace the plug.

There is a magnet on the oil drain plug (shown with an arrow in the photo) .Inspect it to remove adhering metal particles and dirt. The presence of a large amount of metal particles on the magnet indirectly indicates some kind of malfunction of the gearbox, in which case check and, if necessary, repair the gearbox. 6. Wipe off any oil drips and install the shift cover (if removed).

7. Remove the oil filler plug ...

8 ... and fill the gearbox with oil up to the lower edge of the oil filler hole (oil will start to flow out of the hole) .9. Use a rag to wipe off any oil spills and replace the oil filler plug. 10. Install the shift cover, splash guard, and engine undertray.

Oil in manual transmissions mod. Replace MTX-75, MMT6, and MT-66 as follows: NOTES: Fill the transmission with a factory-recommended Ford specification oil. If it is not available, Castrol or Mobil gear oil of API GL-4/5 SAE 75W-80 quality class can be used as a substitute. If the car is operated for a long time at ambient temperatures below -30 ° C, we recommend replacing the oil filled at the factory with SAE gear oil 75W.1. Remove the splash shield and the engine crankcase protection, if any (see Removing and installing the splash shield and the engine crankcase protection).

2. Unscrew the oil drain plug A, first place a container under the hole and drain the oil into it. Wait for the oil to drain completely (at least 15 minutes) and screw the plug. 3. Remove the oil filler plug B and fill the gearbox with oil up to the lower edge of the oil filler hole (oil will start to flow out of the hole). 4. Use a rag to wipe off any oil drips and replace the oil filler plug.

To replace the working fluid in automatic box gear mod. AWF21, perform the following steps: NOTE: Fill the transmission with a factory recommended Ford specification fluid. If not available, Mobil ATF 3309, JWS.1 quality class, can be used as a substitute. Remove the splash shield and the engine crankcase protection, if any (see Removing and installing the splash shield and the engine crankcase protection).

2. Unscrew the drain plug after placing a container under the hole and drain the liquid into it. Wait until the liquid has completely drained (at least 15 minutes) and screw the plug. 3. Remove the air filter (see Removal and Installation air filter and an intake silencer).

4. Remove the filler plug and refill with fluid. 5. Start the engine and warm up the working fluid.

6. With the engine running, remove the automatic transmission fluid level indicator ...

7 .... and check the level. It should be in the middle of the probe tip, in the area of ​​the risks (shown in the photo with an arrow). 8. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

Changing the oil in a manual transmission or working fluid in an automatic transmission Ford Mondeo 4 (2007-2014)

ford-mondeo-4.dv13.ru

Oil change in manual transmission and automatic transmission Ford Mondeo

The design of gearboxes does not provide for an oil (working fluid) change during the entire service life of the car.However, sometimes the need to change the oil (working fluid) may arise, for example, when switching to oil of a different viscosity, when repairing a gearbox, etc.).

Manual transmission oil mod. iB5 is drained as follows.

You will need: socket heads "for 8", "for 19", a hex key "for 8", a syringe, a wide container for draining the oil.

1. Remove the mudguard and engine crankcase guard, if any.

2.Remove the gearshift cover 3.It is recommended to remove the gear shift cover, as the oil drained from the gearbox will spread inside the cover and then, pouring out of it, contaminate the working area To do this, unscrew the three screws securing the cover and remove it.

4. Remove the oil drain plug

5.Previously substituting a container under the hole, and drain the oil into it. Wait until the oil is completely drained (at least 15 minutes) and screw the plug

A magnet is installed on the oil drain plug (shown with an arrow in the photo). Inspect it and remove any adhering metal particles and debris. The presence of a large amount of metal particles on the magnet indirectly indicates some kind of malfunction of the gearbox. In this case, check and repair the box if necessary.

6. Wipe off any oil drips and install the shift cover (if removed).

7. Remove the oil filler plug.

8. Fill the transmission with oil up to the lower edge of the oil filler hole (oil will start to flow out of the hole).

9.Remove oil drips with a rag and replace the oil filler plug.

10. Install the gearshift cowl cover, splash guard, and engine undertray.

Oil in manual transmissions mod. Replace MTX-75, MMT6 and MT-66 as follows.

If the car is operated for a long time at an ambient temperature below -30 ° C, we recommend replacing the oil filled at the factory with SAE 75W gear oil.

1. Remove the mudguard and engine crankcase guard, if any.

2.Unscrew the oil drain plug A by placing a container under the hole and drain the oil into it. Wait until the oil is completely drained (at least 15 minutes) and screw the plug

3.Unscrew the oil filler plug B and fill the gearbox with oil up to the lower edge of the oil filler hole (oil will start to flow out of the hole).

4. Remove any oil drips with a rag and replace the oil filler plug.

To replace the working fluid in an automatic transmission mod. AWF21 perform the following operations.

1. Remove the mudguard and engine crankcase guard, if any.

2.Unscrew the drain plug, first placing a container under the hole and drain the liquid into it. Wait until the liquid is completely drained (at least 15 minutes), and screw the plug

3.Remove the air filter

4. Remove the filler plug and refill with fluid.

5.Start the engine and warm up the working fluid.

b.With the engine running, remove the automatic transmission fluid level indicator.

7. check the level. It should be in the middle of the probe tip, in the area of ​​the risks (shown in the photo with an arrow).

8. Install all removed parts in the reverse order of removal.

www.fordclubrus.ru

It's time to change the oil in the Ford Mondeo gearbox. Looking ahead, I will say that I really liked the Valvolin, but I was disappointed in Liquid Moth ... In principle, everything is simple, especially if you do not have engine protection.

The progress of oil change in the MTX-75 box on VALVOLINE MAX LIVE 75W-90 in Ford Mondeo

drain plug. Internal hexagon.

drain plug

Adaptation

We drain the oil through the drain plug, onto a hot one. It is advisable to raise the left side so that more oil merged. Then we wrap the drain plug and turn off the filling. By the way? they are the same. We fill in oil, in my case, through the device. We put the bottle in the engine compartment upside down, while inserting the hose into the filler neck and then press on the bottle so that the oil is quickly drained. We periodically turn the bottle over so that the drained oil is compensated for by air. It took me a little over two liters of oil.

That's all! The effect after replacement is positive.

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Ford Mondeo | Frequency of replacement of operating fluids, lubricants

1.5. Frequency of replacement of operating fluids, lubricants

GENERAL INFORMATION

The engine oil must be changed every 10,000 km. For a new car, it is necessary to change the oil after the end of the running-in (after 2500 km). When changing the oil, it is imperative to install a new oil filter (engine ZMZ-4062) or its filter element (all engines). Oil change procedure see subsections 2.3.2, 2.3.2.2 and 2.3.3.3.

It is recommended to fill the crankcase with oil of the same grade as was in the engine. If another brand of oil is poured in, you must first flush the engine lubrication system with the oil of the same brand that will be poured into the engine. To do this, drain the old oil, fill in new oil 2–4 mm above the “0” mark on the oil level indicator (dipstick). Start the engine and let it idle for about 10 minutes. Then drain the oil, replace the oil filter or its filter element and fill with fresh oil.

The coolant must be changed every 2 years or after 60,000 km (whichever comes first). The procedure for replacing the coolant see in subsection 2.4.4. It should be borne in mind that the coolant is poisonous, so it should not be sucked in by mouth when transfusing. It is recommended to wear protective goggles when working with coolant and not to smoke or eat. If liquid comes into contact with exposed skin, wash with soap and water.

The oil in the gearbox must be changed after 60,000 km. Oil change procedure see subsections 3.3.2 and 3.4.2. Every 20,000 km, check the oil level in the gearbox and top up if necessary. The oil level in the crankcase must reach the edge of the filler hole. If the drained oil contains metal particles or is very dirty, flush the box. To do this, pour 0.9 liters of fresh oil into its crankcase. Jack up the rear of the vehicle. Start the engine and, engaging first gear, let it run for 2-3 minutes. Then drain the oil and refill with fresh oil. When checking the oil level, you need to clean the surface of the breather from dirt and turn its cap several times to remove dirt that has got under it.

The oil in the rear axle crankcase must be changed after 60,000 km. The oil is changed in the same way as in the gearbox. After 20,000 km, check the oil level in the crankcase and top up if necessary. The oil level should be up to the edge of the filler hole. When checking the oil level, the breather must be cleaned of dirt in the same way as was done for the gearbox.

A warning

Do not use re-drained brake fluid.

The brake fluid in the clutch and brake drives must be changed every 2 years, regardless of the vehicle's mileage. In clutch and brake drives, brake fluids of domestic production "Rosa", "Rosa-3", "Tom", "Neva" or their foreign counterparts on a non-oil basis, the quality level of which is not lower than dot-3, are used. Do not use other brands of fluids, especially petroleum based fluids.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic and must therefore not be stored in an open container.

The procedure for replacing the brake fluid is as follows:

1. Remove the brake master cylinder reservoir cover.

2. Remove the rubber protective caps from the air release valves on the wheel cylinders and put rubber hoses on the valves, the ends of which are lowered into glass vessels.

3. Unscrew the valves no more than one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way down, drain the fluid. As the flow of fluid from the hoses stops, tighten the air release valves.

4. Pour the drained brake fluid from the vessels and put them back in place.

5. Pour fresh fluid into the reservoir of the master cylinder, unscrew all the air release valves one turn and, pressing the brake pedal all the way, fill the brake system. In this case, you need to constantly add fluid to the master cylinder reservoir. After clean brake fluid begins to flow from the hoses fitted to the air release valves, tighten the valves.

6. Bleed the brake system to remove air from it (subsection 6.9 see).

7. Close the brake master cylinder reservoir with a plug. Remove hoses from air release valves and put protective caps on them.

In the same way, replace the fluid in the clutch hydraulic drive.

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Home »New» Where is the oil in the manual transmission on the Ford Mondeo 4

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Ford Mondeo | Changing the oil in the gearbox

8.1.2. Changing the oil in the gearbox

GENERAL INFORMATION
Drainage of oil from the gearbox will be faster and more efficient if this operation is performed after the engine has warmed up to operating temperature and a test drive has been carried out to warm up the gearbox.
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Raise the vehicle on a lift or place it over a viewing hole.
2. On vehicles equipped with a BE3 gearbox, remove the left front wheel, unscrew the screws and remove the wheel arch protection from under the wing to access the oil filler plug. On all models, remove the splash shield from under the engine.
3. Wipe the area around the oil filler plug. On the BE3 gearbox, the oil filler plug is the largest bolt among the end cap bolts to the gearbox. On the ML5T gearbox, the oil filler plug is located at the rear of the differential housing. Unscrew the oil filler plug from the transmission.
4. Place a suitable container under the oil drain plug located at the rear of the transmission and unscrew the plug.
5. Drain the transmission oil completely. Remove metal particles from the oil filler plug and oil drain plug and replace the sealing washers.
6. Screw in the oil drain plug and tighten it to the required torque.
7. Fill the transmission with oil up to the level of the lower edge of the oil filler hole. A warning

The vehicle must be in a horizontal position for proper filling of the gearbox.

8. Install the oil filler plug, install the wheel and take a short ride. Recheck the oil level.
9. If necessary, correct the oil level, install a new sealing washer on the plug, screw the plug into place and tighten to the required torque. Install the wheel arch guard and engine mudguard.

automn.ru

Replacing the gearbox oil seal requires draining the oil, therefore, before replacing the Ford Mondeo 4 gearbox oil seal, it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature so that the oil becomes more liquid. Further, everything is the same as when changing the transmission oil ...

  1. You drive the car into the inspection hole, put it on the handbrake.
  2. It is advisable to install stops or wheel chocks under the wheels.
  3. Since we will be changing the oil seal of the left gearbox drive, we need to remove the left wheel.
  4. Jack up and raise the left side of the car and remove the wheel.
  5. Next, remove the crankcase protection, if any.
  6. Unscrew the drain plug with a hexagon, it is located on the crankcase on the right side, having previously installed a 5 liter container under the drain hole.

8. While the oil is draining, treat the left ball pin and tie rod pin with WD-40 fluid.

9. Now try to unscrew the ball joint nut, and then the tie rod end.

10. Using the "VAZ" puller, press out the tip of the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11. When Tie Rod removed, turn the wheel hub to the right in order to access the ball.

12. After partially pressing out the pin of the ball joint, do not rush to immediately remove from it rounded fist, before that, using the head on "13", unscrew the drive mounting bolt in the hub.

  1. Oil glass. Now using a wooden drift, you need to knock the drive out of the hub as much as possible.
  2. When the actuator is out of the hub, place the pry bar over the lever, resting it on the subframe, and lower the lever down. This will remove the steering knuckle from the ball joint.
  3. Now that the fist is off, move the rack to the side closer to front bumper... Hold the actuator so it does not pop out of the inner CV joint.
  4. Take the punch again and drive the drive inward again, then turn the wheel to the right, remove the drive from the hub and place it on the lever.
  5. Go down into the pit, install a pry bar between the outer cage of the inner CV joint and the box wall and try to push it out of the box like a lever. There should be two clicks, first the retaining ring will pop out, then the entire shank will pop out of the splines.

18. Now you have to tinker, picking out the oil seal is not so easy. Personally, I had problems with this, so I had to get it piece by piece.

19. After removing the old oil seal, lubricate the new oil seal. Ford boxes Mondeo 4 with gear oil and install in the hole. In order for it to fall into place, it was necessary to use a guide.

Further assembly is carried out in reverse order. That's actually the whole replacement of the Ford Mondeo 4 gearbox oil seal with your own hands. Difficult little, slowly with "smoke breaks" this work can be done by anyone. I wish you good luck with your work!

Thank you for visiting: Ford Master

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