Troubleshooting front axle
There are noises from the front wheels of the vehicle
Tire noise. Check if the tires are sized for the vehicle.
The disc is loose on the hub. Check the condition of the rim, wheel hub, wheel studs and nuts. Tighten fasteners or replace defective components.
The wheel is out of balance or the disc is bent. Balance the wheel or replace the disc.
The front hub bearings are faulty, or their adjustment is broken. Correct bearing preload or replace.
Worn or damaged assembly bearings steering knuckle, or their adjustment is violated. Check, replace bearings if necessary.
The front wheel drive shaft constant velocity joint (CV joint) is worn or damaged. Check, if necessary replace the drive shaft.
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Jack up the front of the vehicle and place it on the props. Check the tightness of the fastening nuts and the freedom of rotation of the wheels, measure the amount of runout of the wheels. Noises emitted by the front hub bearing appear as a rumble when rotating one wheel separately. When checking the condition of the wheel bearings, the transmission must be in the “N” position and the opposite wheel must be locked. |
There are noises from the final drive
Loose fastening cardan shaft or the cardan joint is worn out. Tighten fasteners or replace hinge.
The lubricant level has dropped. Check for traces of oil leaks, if any, eliminate the cause. Top up with the correct grade of oil.
Loose main drive pinion flange nut. Lubricate the nut with sealant and tighten to the required torque.
Components of the final drive are worn out or damaged.
The pinion shaft rotates, and front wheel- No
Disengageable hubs not engaged or defective. Check the correct functioning of the hubs with a disconnectable drive, make the necessary repairs, or replace them.
Damaged drive shaft or CV joint. Check, replace the shaft assembly.
The bolts of the crown (driven) gear of the main drive are cut off. Remove the final drive assembly and replace the bolts.
Differential gears damaged. Execute overhaul main gear.
Loss of lubricant occurs
Drive shaft oil seal defective. Remove the drive shaft and replace the oil seal.
There is a leak through the final drive housing gasket. Remove the final drive assembly and replace the gasket.
Leakage occurs through pores or cracks in the final drive housing. Carry out the necessary repairs or replace the crankcase.
Chevrolet Niva transmission consists of a gearbox (5), front and rear axles (2 and 12), transfer case (10), drive shafts (1 and 3), cardan shafts(6 and 11).
Schematic photo of transmission Chevrolet Niva look at the beginning of our article. Today we will consider the principle of operation of the Chevrolet Niva all-wheel drive transmission and the features of components and assemblies that form the basis of this design.
The torque to the wheels of the SUV is transmitted through rear and front axle... Center differential (located in transfer case) allows the wheels to rotate at different speeds, depending on the driving conditions. The rear and front axles of the Chevy Niva have interwheel differential, which in turn allows the right and left wheels to rotate at different speeds.
How does the center differential lock work? Chevrolet NIVA which helps the SUV in heavy road conditions? The scheme is as follows - in normal mode, the front and rear axles with wheels rotate at different speeds. If the lock is turned on with the center differential control lever on the transfer case, then the rear and front propeller shafts rotate at the same speed constantly, this helps to get out of mud, snow or sand if you are stuck there, for example.
However, it should be noted that driving with a locked center differential although it increases cross-country ability, it increases fuel consumption and the load on the transmission. You can only drive with a lock at a low speed. Driving a Chevrolet Niva at high speed with a lock, in general, can lead to damage to the transmission, in particular the transfer case.
Will the differential lock help with diagonal hanging of the Chevrolet Niva? Let's say no right away if one front and one rear wheel hang in the air, then even blocking will not allow you to get out of such a situation. The reason is in the front and rear axle Chevrolet Niva... After all, there are cross-wheel differentials that allow the wheels to rotate at different speeds. That is, if one wheel is stuck, and the second is hanging in the air, then the wheel that is free (hanging in the air) will simply rotate. Some advanced SUVs have and interwheel blocking, such machines are not afraid of diagonal hanging, but the Chevy Niva does not.
Video demonstrating the scheme of operation of the Chevrolet Niva transmission.
The design of the transmission is mainly inherited from the VAZ 2121 "Niva", however, the Chevy Niva has its own characteristics associated with the subsequent modernization of components and assemblies. For example, at the ends of the shafts at the Chevrolet NIVA, CV joints were used instead of crosspieces, which reduced vibration and noise in the cabin of the NIVA. By the way, the next generation of Chevy Niva will also receive an off-road transmission, the manufacturer officially announced this.
The next repair of the suspension after the winter took off at a pretty penny)) The most expensive of all the "shake-up" of the suspension turned out to be front gear, which I had a native and the mileage of the car at the moment was 125k km. The guys in the service shook the machine, the gearbox can be said to be “dead”, huge backlash, everything loosened up. No wonder, when you go along the highway, he just howled))
I have a Chevrolet Niva "transition" - produced in 2004, and when buying a gearbox, the question arose - which one to take, the old or the new model? Until 2003, Sheviks came with a 22-spline gearbox, after 2004 (new) - already with a 24-spline gearbox.
My transition, in theory, had to be with a 24-slot gearbox, just besides it, the right "grenade" had to be replaced and I also took it with a 24-slot gear. And he made the right decision, everything went well.
For the money - the gearbox came out 7480 rubles, the work on its replacement in the region of 3-4 thousand rubles. In addition to it, the "grenade" + anthers were replaced for both, one wheel bearing, two ball and brake pads, a crosspiece, a liter of oil in the gearbox. For everything about everything, together with the cost of spare parts, the repair came out to 21,000 rubles. Not weakly had to invest so much, the "front end" is now sorted out all over. All spare parts cost about 15,000 rubles for the money, so the cost of the work is 6k. The car was in service for 2 full days.
The “rear” was shocked - everything is fine there, it's good that a couple of years ago I put in reinforced traction, for 2 years the “rear” of the car does not bother me, the only thing is that sometimes I have to change the rear bolts " jet thrust"That just cuts off. the problem was solved when I also bought reinforced bolts, such as some super-hardened ones.
After the repair, I periodically rode through the spring mud (on light), the lowering and blocking works perfectly. I hope that the new gearbox will be enough for me now "until retirement"))
