How to remake an ant for a walk-behind tractor. How to make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor, photos and drawings. Homemade walk-behind tractor with a motor scooter engine "Vyatka" or "Ant"

People whose budget is modest and does not give the opportunity to purchase branded awnings and attachments like to come up with various homemade products from a walk-behind tractor. V basic configuration this technique has limited capabilities. But even the simplest unit is an engine internal combustion, which can be used as a source of energy for many mobile devices. On the basis of a walk-behind tractor, you can also assemble stationary installations, such as a pump station, an electric generator and a mulcher. By connecting an electric motor to the unit, you can make a universal woodworking machine. A self-made sawmill in your yard will be an excellent help on the farm.

Vehicle modernization

If an old bicycle, scooter or motorcycle breaks down, you should not rent the equipment for scrap. Also, there is no need to rush to buy a new motor. It can be replaced with power plant from a light motor cultivator. There is only 1 limitation: you cannot use such a car on public roads. But the motor scooter Ant with an engine from a walk-behind tractor can be used in the country for trips to the field or river. 5-6 hp engine quite enough to accelerate the moped to a speed of 50-60 km / h. Before mounting the engine on a bicycle, you must install reinforced wheels on this vehicle that can withstand a weight of up to 100 kg.

In order to assemble a scooter with an engine from a walk-behind tractor, you will need the following tools and materials:

welding machine;
grinder with discs for metal;
electric drill;
wrench;
screwdriver;
pliers;
level;
hammer;
dye.

In order to put the power unit on the Ant, you will need to create a frame for it.

This is done in the following sequence:

Drawings are drawn up, accurate calculations of the frame configuration and attachment points are made. It is recommended to check the calculations for soft aluminum strips.
The mounting bracket is welded. It is treated with anti-corrosion agents, bolt holes are drilled.
The engine is carefully mounted on the bracket and secured with bolts. The positioning accuracy is checked and the position is corrected.
The motor is connected to undercarriage vehicle with a belt or chain. Gear shift cables, control levers are fixed.
Vehicle health check. The created homemade product needs to be run-in so that all the parts get used to each other. You need to spend 6-8 hours on this when the engine is running at medium speeds.

See " How to use the Mole walk-behind tractor correctly

If you have experience in handling household tools and knowledge in electrical engineering, you can assemble an electric excavator with your own hands. This will require channels, hinges, cables and a working electric motor. The bucket is made of sheet steel, which can be purchased inexpensively at scrap metal collection points.

Tractor from a walk-behind tractor

Few people will like the process of walking for many hours in the field behind the unit. It is much easier to mow, plow or huddle the soil while sitting on the comfortable chair attached to the trailer trolley. There are many branded adapters, trailers and trolleys in retail outlets. But they have a considerable cost, which many cannot afford. You can make a mini-tractor from a Neva walk-behind tractor almost free of charge, using the tools and materials that are at hand.

The following devices and materials are needed:

differential from passenger car;
small car wheels;
sprockets and chains from a motorcycle;
hexagonal solid steel profile;
steel corners 50 mm;
tinplate for making wings.

The first difficulty that arises when making a homemade tractor with your own hands is a high center of gravity. It is impossible to downgrade it for purely technical reasons. There is only one way to increase the stability of the tractor - to expand its wheelbase. For this, a hexagonal profile is used, which is attached to the hubs with cotter pins. When the track is expanded to 120 cm, the walk-behind tractor will acquire normal stability. Installing a differential will allow the implement to easily take turns.

The assembly of the mini-tractor is carried out in the following sequence:

Welding of the frame of the trailed part. Fastening a drawbar with a flange, making holes for bolts in it (the connection must be made collapsible in order to be able to transport the walk-behind tractor in the trunk or trailer).
Running gear manufacturing. Wheels are installed on the cart. To do four-wheel drive sprockets are welded onto both axles, sprockets are welded onto the axle shafts, a tensioning mechanism and chains are installed.
Assembling the body and seat. If necessary, a canopy is installed over the driver. Setting up and adjusting the controls.
Electrification of the created machine. A tractor generator or battery is used as an energy source. For driving convenience, it is advisable to install 2 headlights - front and rear (for reversing).

See " Overview of the Agro walk-behind tractor line

During sea trials, the stability and permeability of the homemade product are checked. If the drive wheels lose traction with the ground, then they or the body of the walk-behind tractor are loaded with weighting agents.

Snowmobile from a walk-behind tractor

In winter, getting around the area becomes much more difficult, and buying even a used snowmobile is associated with significant financial costs. The solution to the problem is to convert the walk-behind tractor into a snowmobile. Everything you need for this can be found at the nearest landfill or at the scrap metal collection point. If there is a sufficient amount, modular tracks are purchased that are installed instead of wheels on a semi-axle.

I understand that both walk-behind tractors are Chinese.

It's just that the budget is limited

Edward Better than GT 700, he is faster and more powerful

Arthur Better Motoblock - cultivator Patriot Chicago Sasha, cheaper, but not worse.
If I choose from those presented by you, my choice is the foreman.

Tags: How, to make, a walk-behind tractor, from, ant, video

self-made walk-behind tractor from T-200 internal combustion engine (Ant) we plow

how to make a walk-behind tractor? how to make a walk-behind tractor from an ant motor scooter? | Topic author: Vyacheslav

I understand that both walk-behind tractors are Chinese. It's just that the budget is limited

Igor Magazine "Modelist-Constructor"

Anton This requires hands and a head ... nothing else matters.

Homemade walk-behind tractor with a motorcycle engine, video ...

Jump to How to make a walk-behind tractor with your own hands from an engine ... - The scheme for creating this walk-behind tractor is perfect for Voskhod, Minsk, Ant engines. Better than all yourself ... To make the walk-behind tractor your ...

How to make a mini-tractor from a walk-behind tractor yourself - Udec

The self-made mini-tractor described below from a walk-behind tractor is created from parts of a cargo scooter "Ant" - it is excellent ... You can make such a mini-tractor yourself from scrap: various components and parts from ... Watch the video "Home-made mini-tractor" to clearly see how ...

All units of the walk-behind tractor are based on one frame. Frame design: two spars, the front and rear ends of which are bent upward, and the front ends are also opposite and welded together. To the rear ends, also by welding, a structure from the Izh motorcycle is attached - a steering wheel with control levers. The material of the side members is a steel water pipe (inch and a quarter).

Diy assembled walk-behind tractor frame drawing

Walk-behind tractor frame: 1 - steering wheel (from the Izh motorcycle); 2 - an instrument panel mounting bracket (corner 25 × 25); 3 - platform and fastening bracket battery; 4 - frame spar (pipe with a diameter of 32); 5 - second stage chain drive housing; 6 - sub-engine frame; 7 - first stage power transmission chain tensioner (bolt M10); 8 - chain tensioner stop; 9 - brace (pipe with a diameter of 22); 10 - bracket for connecting the cultivator subframe (milled channel No. 8); 11 - bracket for connecting the transport trolley; 12-crossbar (strip 30x4,3 pcs.)

The spars are connected along the length by several cross members. The front one is a stop for the chain tensioner of the 1st stage of the transmission. Some parts of the walk-behind tractor also serve as crossbars - for example, a platform for a battery.

One of the frame components, the gear case, also serves as a strut between the power package and the chassis. A cultivator subframe or a two-axle trolley for transporting goods can be hooked up to the lower rear part of the crankcase.

Walk-behind tractor engine

In the design, I used a two-stroke gasoline 13-horsepower motor of a cargo scooter "Ant" has a forced air cooling... This is an indisputable plus in a situation of inevitable overheating of the motor due to the low speed of movement. The four-speed gearbox is interlocked with the engine, the muffler is homemade: a steel pipe filled with metal shavings (pipe length 250 mm, diameter 70 mm, exhaust outlet 16 mm). The exhaust tract has a complex shape due to the layout of the walk-behind tractor and the fact that the exhaust should be to the side.

The frame on which the engine is located is a sled, to the cross members of which an arc from a water pipe is welded (d = 42 mm). Brackets are welded to the arc in the center and at the ends.

Sub-frame

1 - slide runner (corner 40 × 40, 2 pcs.); 2- back cross member; 3 - ridge (steel pipe 1 1/4 ″); 4-bracket-bracket (StZ, strip 50 × 4, 3 pcs.); 5 - middle cross member: 6 - front cross member; 7 - traverse (corner 32 × 32); parts 2,5,6 are made of 40 × 4 steel strip

In place, through the holes in the ears on the crankcase, holes were drilled in the brackets for M8 bolts, after which the arc was installed with the center side and tacked by welding to the middle cross member of the sled, the extreme cross members were brought under the arc, bent, and their middle was also driven out in place so that the crossbars are in contact with the arc along their entire width. The arc was then attached to the cross members by welding along the tangency lines, and the ends of the cross members were welded to a guide rail made of an equal 40 mm steel angle.

Motor dimensions and mounting points

A bolt hole is drilled in the center of the vertical flange of the traverse, welded from above to the front ends of the rails. The bolt (M10) is also included in the front cross member of the frame and is designed to adjust the chain tension from the 1st gear stage. The skids move along the side members in the longitudinal grooves (there are four of them, two in each runner). The subframe is attached to the main frame through the slots with four M10 bolts.

Chain reducer

The two-stage chain reducer is designed to reduce the rotational speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft power unit on wheels or rippers.

Chain reducer drawing

1 - case (channel No. 20); 2 - cover (StZ, sheet s5); 3 - gasket (oil-resistant rubber) 4 - second stage driving sprocket (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5-key; 6 - bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 - nut М22х1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - stuffing box; 11 - distance sleeve with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 - screw M8 with a spring washer (30 pcs.); 14 - driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 - bearing housing; 17 - sealing sleeve; 18 - left semiaxis; 19-oil drain plug (screw M10); 20 - the bottom of the case (StZ, sheet s4); 21 - oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22.23 - oil seals (2 pcs.); 24 - right semiaxis; 25 - fixing screws M6 (8 pcs.); 26 - bolt М8; 27 - chain t = 19.05; 28 - driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 - distance sleeve

The 1st gear stage consists of two sprockets (17 and 57 teeth with a pitch of 12.75 mm). The driving sprocket (17 teeth) is mounted on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket is mounted on the outer flange input shaft 2nd stage. 2nd stage of the gearbox - reinforced (driving sprocket with 11 teeth, driven by 25, tooth pitch 19.05 mm). Since this step during the operation of the walk-behind tractor is close to the cultivated soil, to protect it from dust, it is placed in a closed crankcase, welded to the crossbars directly and to the side members through steel spacers.

A brace is welded between the crankcase and the cross member, for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower part, the shape of the walls of the channels is a semicircle, instead of the shelves that are cut off, the bottom is welded from a 4-mm steel sheet bent in the form of a half-cylinder along the walls of the channels. The top of the crankcase is closed by a cover with a gasket made of oil-resistant rubber.

Both walls have two coaxial holes for bearing housings (d = 100 mm). Each of these holes is lined with six other threaded holes (M8) for attaching the housings to the crankcase. The lower bearings (that is, semi-axle bearings) have conventional housings, the upper (shaft bearings) have eccentric housings. By turning them around the axis (at least 15 °), the chain tension of the 2nd stage of the gearbox is adjusted stepwise.

The shaft of this gear stage is installed in two ball bearings 206. The drive sprocket is fixed by two spacer sleeves between the inner walls of the crankcase, exactly in the middle, and is connected to the shaft by a parallel key. The large driven sprocket sits on the centering boss of the right axle shaft and is secured with six M8 bolts between the counter flanges of the axle shafts. Its lower teeth, together with the chain links on them, are constantly immersed in oil. During the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the oil is transferred by the chain to the upper part of the crankcase - thus, the rubbing parts of the 2nd stage are lubricated. Stuffing boxes in the bearing housings protect against oil leakage to the outside. The rigid flange joint of the axle shafts forms a single shaft, which is housed in two 308 ball bearings.

Homemade wheels

Through the splines at the ends of the axle shafts, the torque is transmitted to the rippers or to the wheels. The rippers are home-made, the wheels with 5-10 ″ tires are borrowed from the SMZ stroller. To improve grip in winter or when cultivating the soil, a homemade 90 x 5 mm steel strip bandage is put on the tires with lugs from an equal 25 mm corner.

Homemade lugs

Dismountable bandage with lugs: 1 - band half ring (steel strip 60 × 5.2 pcs.); 2 - hinge loop; 3 - locking lug; 4 - transverse lug (corner 25 × 25, 11 pcs.); 5 - diagonal lug (corner shelf, 12 pcs.); 6 - bolt М8 of the locking device (2 pcs.); 7 - mating half of the locking device (corner 25 × 25)

The tendrils on the lugs with parts of the vertical shelves cut off on their sides prevent the bandage from sliding off the tire. The antennae are bent inside the bandage hoop, and the cut-off parts of the shelves are welded to the hoop obliquely between the corners. The bandage hoop is composite: its two halves are connected by a hinge on one side and a locking device on the other (a similar locking device is used on the gearbox housing cover). It is convenient to mount such a hoop on tires.

The cultivators (one, two or three legs) are mounted on a T-shaped subframe made of rectangular 60 x 40 mm tube. The traverse can be detached. These parts are prefabricated, they were picked up at a landfill for agricultural machinery. In the front part of the subframe, a coupling device from a channel No. 6.5 is attached by welding.

Cultivator subframe

1 - traverse; 2 - bracket (2 pcs.); 3 - M12 bolt (3 pcs.); 4 - traverse mounting flange (corner 30 × 30.2 pcs.); 5 - bolt М8 (4 tt.); 6 - ridge; 7 - coupling device (channel No. 6.5); 8- M8 bolt for attaching the subframe (2 pcs.); 9- mating part of the coupling device (milled channel No. 8: the size between the shelves is 65 mm); 10 - an earring for attaching the trolley; 11 - gearbox housing; 12 - kingpin (pipe with a diameter of 22 with M22 thread and M22 nut); parts 1, 2, 6 are made of steel rectangular pipe 60 × 40; a - three rectangular holes for the racks of the cultivator paws (dimensions in place)

For connection, the subframe is inserted into the bracket on the frame (gearbox housing). Bracket material - channel No. 8 with shelves, milled so that there is 66 mm between them. The subframe and bracket are connected with M8 bolts.

The use of a walk-behind tractor in tandem with a one-piece plow (also home-made) had to be abandoned, since it was difficult to work with such a set, and the business was progressing slowly. The role of a homemade plow for soil cultivation is performed by two rippers (two cutters, that is, several knives with cutters) installed in place of the wheels.

Rippers

Ripper assembly elements: a - splined sleeve with four flanges and end washer; b - knife with a cutter (16 pcs.)

The cutters are fixed with M8 bolts on the flanges, which are pushed onto the sleeve and welded to it. The diameter of the spline part of the semiaxis is slightly less than the diameter of the sleeve. The material of the knives is a steel strip of 50 x 60 mm, the cutters are from a decommissioned mower. To loosen the soil, one or two legs are installed in the cultivator subframe, creating a braking torque. In this case, the rippers slip when rotating, go deeper into the soil and finely crush it. The braking torque can be adjusted with a different number of legs and a different degree of their depth. If it is adjusted, the walk-behind tractor moves evenly forward by itself and is easy to operate. When handling ups and downs, you will have to adjust the braking torque manually, by force on the steering wheel, deeper or shallower immersing the blades into the soil. The depth of cultivation with rippers, like a conventional shovel, is about 20 centimeters. After loosening, the soil is soft, level and does not need to be harrowed.

Homemade trailer

As mentioned above, the walk-behind tractor can be converted into vehicle for cargo transportation, with a two-wheeled semi-trailed bogie. It turned out to be very simple to make a trailer for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. Chassis carts - front axle SMZ motorized carriages assembled (with wheels). The main frame consists of two spars with two cross members made of steel pipe, the cross section of which is a rectangle of 60 x 30 mm. In the front, where the side members converge, the seat is located.

The drawbar of the bogie is stepped so that the coupling device is closer to the axle of the wheels. As a result, handling is as easy as for articulated frame designs. Half-inch pipe struts are designed to reinforce the drawbar steps. Steps are welded to it from below. The design of the hitch is relatively simple: like a swivel, so that you can turn on uneven roads or slopes, relative to the horizontal longitudinal axis.

At the top of the main frame is a frame flanking the cargo platform made of an equal 35 mm steel angle. To strengthen the structure, additional connections have been created: the bogie frame is connected to the bridge levers through struts reinforced with struts (struts made of the same pipe as the frame). The frame-edging of the platform is lined with a tongue-and-groove board 25 mm thick. In further author's developments, removable or folding sides are provided.

The electrical equipment of the walk-behind tractor is designed for a voltage of 12 V: a standard ignition coil, two 9MT-14 batteries, a starter, a 90 W generator, and a car headlight.

Today, the "Ant" walk-behind tractor can be a very serious brand-name unit of factory assembly. With its help, you can carry out various agricultural work on your personal plot, avoiding long and exhausting manual labor. At the same time, its weight is less than 100 kg, which makes it possible to transport the device in the trunk of a car. Its dimensions are quite compact, it does not require special storage conditions, it can easily fit both in a utility room and in a residential apartment in a city high-rise building. However, since the price for it starts from 25 thousand rubles, it makes clear sense to make such a walk-behind tractor with your own hands from an old scooter. Especially popular are home-made walk-behind tractors with an engine and a gearbox from the "Ant" scooter, which in their characteristics are close to similar parts of a factory-assembled walk-behind tractor.

Factory-assembled proprietary motoblock "Ant"

It is produced by the domestic industry at agricultural engineering enterprises. Represents Gas engine on a two-wheeled platform, capable of both rotating the wheels of the undercarriage and driving the cutters for soil cultivation. "Ant" is able to handle hard and virgin soil. In addition to cutters, it is possible to install a plow or a hiller on it. Petrol four-stroke engine with a power of 7 Horse power... This allows plowing the soil to a depth of 30 cm. fuel tank fits up to 3.6 liters of gasoline, crankcase volume 0.6 liters.

The transmission is a belt drive and a chain reducer with a cast iron pulley. Forward speeds are switchable, reverse is only one speed. The engine has a manual start system. The tiller can provide a plowed strip width of up to 80 cm. Steering column it is possible to adjust both vertically and horizontally. The result is a rather powerful and easy-to-use device. The only drawback can be considered a relatively high cost, which makes the majority of owners of summer cottages and plots prefer making its analogue with their own hands. A homemade walk-behind tractor will cost several times cheaper, and the consumer qualities of the mechanism will differ little from its factory-assembled counterpart.

Stages of assembling a walk-behind tractor from a scooter

In order to assemble a walk-behind tractor from a scooter, you need to disassemble the vehicle itself into its component parts. First of all, you need an engine, which must first be sorted out and put in order. Then, a support frame is welded from a steel sheet with a thickness of about 4 mm and iron water pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, on which the engine is rigidly attached to three supports. After that, a carburetor, magneto is installed on the frame, air filter and a muffler. To prevent the engine from overheating, a cover must be mounted above it, capable of providing forced cooling.

For a walk-behind tractor from "Ant", wheels from a motor scooter can be useful. They are wide enough to provide good traction. The chain drive is done with a drive that connects the motor to the shafts that have flanges that can be removed from the old combine. Gear selection can provide excellent shaft speeds, but the lower case on the frame must be carefully dimensioned to allow the frame to reach the ground. The control is carried out using a metal telescopic tube that can be taken from a broken vacuum cleaner, which will allow you to adjust the height. The gearbox provides three positions, but only the first gear will work. Manual control of the carburetor flap.

Development of a walk-behind tractor into more complex home-made devices

A homemade walk-behind tractor can serve as the basis for various more complex units that can be used not only for soil cultivation. On the basis of homemade products from the "Ant" scooter, you can make a mini tractor, a snow blower, a towing vehicle or other mechanized device. Making a tractor from "Ant" is especially popular. To do this, a steel bar from a channel or beam is attached to the frame of the walk-behind tractor under the engine. Then a sprung two-wheeled bogie with a seat at the top is made. The springs can be removed from the same scooter.

Under the trolley with a seat, the same rod is welded to the frame, which is connected to the rod of the walk-behind tractor by an overhead coupling with bolted connections. This allows such a tractor from "Ant" to tow quite serious loads. The metal bar will distribute the force across the entire tractor frame. There is a full opportunity for the manufacture of a trailer for a walk-behind tractor from "Ant". 4 wheels on springs are attached to a frame made of a steel beam, and a rectangular platform made of boards or sheet metal with folding sides is mounted on top. On the front, a driver's seat can be fitted instead of a tailgate.

You can make a lot of different homemade products from "Ant". It depends primarily on technical literacy and skills in working with metal and mechanisms. In addition to the old scooter, a variety of parts and mechanisms can be used, otherwise inevitably sent to scrap metal.

Such homemade devices are able to radically facilitate a person's work in a personal or summer cottage.

Their main advantage, in addition to a fairly low cost, is that they can be maximally adapted to the specific needs of the owner.

Idea how to do homemade reducer for a walk-behind tractor, taken from the magazine "Modelist-Constructor", the design of the unit was redesigned in accordance with the following requirements: to exclude the chain drive from the design of the transmission, to ensure the lowest possible center of gravity. Since the required gearbox was missing, the transmission was made from spare parts for the gears for the engine of the "Electron" scooter.

Motoblock: 1 - engine; 2 - casing; 3 - gas tank; 4 - ignition coil; 5 - switch; 6 - pin for fixing the angle of inclination of the working body (not conventionally shown in the top view); 7 - bolt М16; 8 - axis of attachment of the working body; 9 - working body (plow); 10 - holder; 11 - frame; 12 - carrier with control handles; 13 - a wheel with grousers.

We make a homemade gearbox for a walk-behind tractor

To make a homemade gearbox for the walk-behind tractor, parts were taken from the B-150 M engine: crankcase, gears, chain sprockets, as well as an additional gearbox shaft. The crankcase must be cut into two halves and removed from it the kickstarter, gearshift mechanism and crankcase. At the exit point of the kickstarter, it is required to install a plug and weld it using argon welding.

In the left half of the crankcase, we install the bearing box of the right running wheel of the walk-behind tractor. A spare crankcase of the same engine is used as the axle box.

A part of the crankcase of the V-150 M engine is also used as the left cover, which is supplemented with one part - a duralumin bushing. The bushing is pressed into the crank chamber and has a hole corresponding to the diameter of the shank of the engine output shaft.

Walk-behind tractor

1 - right wheel;
2 - left wheel;
3 - gear wheel of the first transfer;
4 - drive shaft;
5- reducer;
6 - driving gear;
7 - bushing;
8 - locking screw;
9 - drive shaft housing;
10 - axle box flange;
11 - nut and bolt M8;
12 - splined sleeve;
13 - shaft;
14 - nuts М14;
15 - washer;
16 - stuffing box;
17.18 - bearings;
19 - engine.

Drive shaft of the walk-behind tractor

1,2 - cantilever parts of the shaft (from the secondary shafts of the V-150 M gears);
3 - toothed wheel (from the gear wheel of the first gear V-150M);
4 - the front part of the shaft (rod d22 mm);
5 - cut-off collar.

The motor and gearbox are fixed relative to each other by means of an M10 screw.

How to make a homemade walk-behind tractor with an ant gearbox

A chain reducer with two stages is designed to reduce the rotation speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit of the walk-behind tractor to the wheels or cutters.

Chain reducer drawing

1 - body made of channel # 20); 2 - cover from st. sheet s5); 3 - gasket made of oil-resistant technical plate) 4 - leading sprocket of the second stage (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5-key; 6 - bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8 - shaft; 9 - nut М22х1.5 with a spring washer; 10 - stuffing box; 11 - distance sleeve with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13 - screw M8 with a spring washer (30 pcs.);

14 - driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16 - bearing housing; 17 - sealing sleeve; 18 - left semiaxis; 19-oil drain plug (screw M10); 20 - the bottom of the case from st. sheet s4); 21 - oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22.23 - oil seals (2 pcs.); 24 - right semiaxis; 25 - fixing screws M6 (8 pcs.); 26 - bolt М8; 27 - chain t = 19.05; 28 - driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29 - distance sleeve

The first stage of the gearbox includes two sprockets with 17 and 57 teeth, respectively, with a pitch of 12.75 mm. The drive sprocket with 17 teeth sits on the output shaft of the power unit, the driven sprocket sits on the outer flange of the input shaft of the second stage.

The second stage of the reducer is reinforced and made with a driving sprocket with 11 teeth and a driven sprocket with 25 teeth, a tooth pitch of 19.05 mm. Since during the operation of the walk-behind tractor, the second stage is located close to the cultivated soil, it is protected from dust by a closed crankcase, which is directly welded to the crossbars, the crankcase is welded by spars through steel spacers.

A strut is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves, which are reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower parts of the channels, the walls of the channels are in the form of a semicircle, instead of the cut-off shelves, the bottom is welded from a steel sheet of 4 mm, which is bent along the walls of the channels in the form of a semi-cylinder. The top of the crankcase is closed with a lid with a gasket made of oil-resistant technical plate.

In both walls, two coaxial holes d = 100 mm are made for the bearing housings. Around each of them, six other threaded holes with M8 threads are made evenly, the purpose of which is to fasten the bodies to the crankcase. The lower bearings of the semi-axles have normal housings, the upper bearings of the shaft have eccentric housings. By turning them around the axis by at least 15 °, the chain tension of the second stage of the gearbox is adjusted stepwise.

The shaft of the second stage of the gearbox is mounted in two ball bearings 206. By means of two spacers, the drive sprocket is fixed exactly in the middle between the inner walls of the crankcase and is connected to the shaft by means of a parallel key. On the centering boss of the right axle shaft sits a large driven sprocket, fixed with six M8 bolts between the opposite flanges of the axle shafts. The bottom of the large driven sprocket and part of the chain are permanently immersed in oil.

When the engine of the walk-behind tractor is running, the moving chain transfers oil to the upper part of the crankcase - thus, lubrication of the rubbing parts of the second stage is organized. To prevent oil leakage, gland seals are provided in the bearing housings. The axle shafts are rigidly flanged to form a single shaft mounted in two 308 ball bearings.