The clutch is the weakest link in the transmission, so it often fails. In particular, car owners are often faced with a situation where the clutch pedal does not return to its original position after being pressed. Therefore, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with all possible reasons such a malfunction and how to fix it.
1 We are looking for the reason - we start from a simple breakdown option
If the clutch pedal falls to the floor, we begin to search for the cause of the malfunction according to the principle "from simple to complex", since in most cases the breakdown is not serious. Inspect the clutch pedal itself. The reasons for the breakdown may be the following:
- the return spring has burst or jumped off - in this case, you need to install the spring in place or try to at least temporarily connect it in order to reach the nearest auto shop or service station;
- a problem with the pedal axis - over time, it could rust or debris could get into it, as a result of which the pedal simply stuck;
- breaking the connection of the cable with the pedal - you need to fix the cable to the pedal. Some car models do not have a cable, so you need to pay attention to the rods that could come loose. If such a malfunction is detected, the disconnected rods must be connected and pinned.
If the pedal is in order and the drives from the passenger compartment are intact, you should open the hood and inspect the drive from the outside. Oftentimes, the cable just flies off the clutch fork. Such a problem especially often happens on cars VAZ 2110, Renault Logan, Renault Sandero, etc. In such a breakdown, you need to install the cable in place and securely fix it.
In some cases, the cable will become stuck in the casing, as dirt can accumulate in it over time. In such a situation, the pedal does not come back even forcibly. To solve this problem, if you do not have a spare cable at hand, you need to fill the casing with grease after dismantling the cable. Then install the cable in place and slowly use the clutch pedal to wiggle it to pull it off the dead center. When the pedal returns to its original position, depress it several times so that the cable is completely covered with grease.
If the cable is jammed in the casing, you can pre-inject WD-40. The product will flow along the entire cable and ensure proper sliding.
Broken cable is a more serious problem. In this case, repairs on the road will not work without a new cable. Therefore, you will either have to reach the nearest store on your own without a clutch, or take it in tow.
2 Problems with the hydraulic drive
Have domestic cars VAZ 2105-2107, as well as some foreign cars, for example, Audi A4 and Ford Focus, the clutch drive is hydraulic. It has a master cylinder and a working cylinder, as well as a pipeline through which fluid flows. The principle of operation of such a system is as follows: the clutch pedal is connected to the master cylinder rod, which drives the cylinder piston.
When the clutch pedal is pressed, the piston squeezes out the fluid, which drives the slave cylinder, which, in turn, moves the rod connected to the fork. True, some models, for example, Ford Focus, do not have a fork. Therefore, the stem is directly connected to release bearing... This complicates the repair somewhat, since dismantle the working cylinder in road conditions will not work.
Regardless of the type of construction hydraulic drive if the pedal does not return to its place, it is quite possible that the system is airing or depressurizing. In such a situation, you must first of all open the hood and see the level of the liquid in the tank. If necessary, the liquid must be topped up.
If liquid flows out of the tank quickly, it means that the system has been depressurized. To find out where the leak occurs, you can only visually inspect the system. If fluid leaks out at the joints, they need to be tightened. If fluid leaks out from under the rod, it is necessary to repair the master cylinder.
For this, the cylinder must be dismantled. Depending on the model, it can be attached both from the passenger compartment (under the pedal) and from the side of the engine compartment. Then the cylinder must be disassembled and the cuffs, seals and other wearing parts must be changed. In car dealerships, there are special repair kits that contain all the necessary parts to be replaced. Of course, such repairs will not work on the road.
Repair may be necessary not only for the master, but also for the slave cylinder, which drives the clutch fork.
To get rid of the air in the system, which, as we have already said, can also cause the pedal to fail, it must be "pumped". It is advisable to engage in this procedure with a partner, since it is inconvenient to perform all actions alone at the same time. So, the procedure is carried out as follows:
- From the bypass valve of the master cylinder, you need to remove the cap and put a hose on it. The free end of the hose must be lowered into a bottle filled with one third of brake fluid.
- Then open the bypass valve by unscrewing it one turn.
- Next, you need to press the pedal. If you are doing the procedure alone, install a stopper that will secure the pedal. In this position, it must be kept until bubbles stop coming from the hose. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the liquid level in the tank does not fall below normal. Add liquid if necessary.
- When the bubbles stop coming out, you must close the valve and release the pedal. Then the procedure must be repeated, i.e. open the valve and press the pedal. And so on until the air bubbles stop coming out.
If the pedal is stuck, i.e. it cannot be forced to its original position, most likely the reason lies in a cylinder malfunction. As in the case of its depressurization, the cylinder must be dismantled and "sorted out".
4 How to reach MOT on its own - a few tips from personal experience
If the clutch pedal falls through and you failed to fix the breakdown in road conditions, it is not necessary to ask someone for a tow or call a tow truck. Of course, the lack of clutch is an unpleasant breakdown, but you can continue driving. To do this, you need to turn on the first or second speed and start the car. At the same time, slightly press the gas so that the car does not start to twitch and stall
When driving without a clutch, be sure to turn on the hazard lights.
Try to plot your route so that you go along the main road and there are a minimum of traffic lights on the way, so you avoid unnecessary stops. Stop and shut off the engine if necessary, but do not attempt hazardous maneuvers. Also, do not attempt to change gear while driving. Otherwise, it will be necessary to repair not only the clutch, but also the gearbox, and this will cost much more than calling a tow truck.
Imagine a situation that you are calmly driving about your business and suddenly there is a click and the clutch pedal falls into the floor or, when pressed, starts to rest on something. The first thought is that you are left without a clutch, and without it even the gear cannot be turned on. It's right. But let's not panic, but let's figure out what could be the matter and how to proceed further.
Usually, shortly before a breakdown, the clutch pedal becomes more rigid, you have to exert more effort to press it than before - this is the surest sign of an imminent breakdown of the clutch, or rather one of its components.
To identify breakage, let's start with what kind of grip is. Sometimes it is cable and hydraulic. In the first, pressing the pedal activates the cable, in the second, when the pedal is pressed, energy is transferred to hydraulic system clutch.
Failed clutch pedal - clutch malfunctions
1. Hydraulics
- check the level brake fluid in the clutch master cylinder reservoir. If the level is insufficient, add brake fluid to the normal level and try depressing the pedal. If the clutch appears, you are in luck, in this case you need to go to the service or inspect all the hoses yourself, most likely the fluid is leaking somewhere. But most of the time it doesn't help. Then the probability is very high that burst one of the hoses leading to the clutch master or slave cylinder, therefore, the required pressure is not created in the system. To solve this problem, you need to replace the worn out hose.
The price of the hose is 300-500 rubles, the price of work in the service is from 500 rubles... When looking for a hose in stores, it is advisable that you have an old one with you - then you can compare the fittings and threads on them. It may turn out that there is no hose on sale for your model, then a brake hose for other models may be suitable. Ask the seller to find the part on which the fitting is screwed on and screw on the old and new hose, if they screw up, feel free to buy. Also, do not forget to buy brake fluid (it is better to take 1 liter, the price is about 150 rbl)
2. Clutch cable
- can break off somewhere inside or at the ends. The eyelet on the clutch pedal to which it is attached may also break off. In this case, replacement of the cable is required, a new cable costs about 300-600 rubles, the price of work in the service is about 500 rubles.
3. Clutch release fork
- located on the gearbox, its resource is approximately 50-70 thousand kilometers. If your meter already has similar numbers, or the fork has changed about the same amount of mileage back, then most likely there is a breakdown in it. To change the clutch fork, on most car models, you need to remove or hang the gearbox.
You will pay 1500-3000 rubles for work in the service... It makes sense to think about replacing the clutch disc if you have not changed it for a long time either (replacing the clutch disc is usually every 70-80 thousand km), because the procedure for performing this work involves removing the box. You will not be charged much more for work, but you will immediately change the clutch at the same time. I also recommend replacing the oil in the box at the same time, if it has not changed for more than 50 thousand km.
4. Clutch master or slave cylinder
- it is possible that one of these cylinders has "struck", then the inoperative clutch cylinder should be replaced with a new one, and it is better to change both at once - both the working and the main one. After work, be sure to bleed the system and check for leaks at the joints. The price of work on replacing the GCC or DCS in a car service about 1500-2000 rubles.
How to ride without a clutch?
Let's say you roughly or exactly understand what the breakdown happened, how can you get to the house or to the service now? You can get there on your own, but if you do something wrong, it is fraught with breakage of the box, failure of synchronizers and other component parts Checkpoint. If you have the money and time, it’s better to find a driver who can take you, or call a tow truck. It will come out cheaper than if the gearbox breaks down.
If you do decided to go on their own then read on. The easiest option is to get there in first gear. Since there is no clutch, then on the muffled engine we immediately turn on the first gear (it will turn on without the clutch), and in this position we start the car. When the ignition key is turned to the “starter” position, the car will immediately start and start, there will be slight jerks. Consider that you have started and are already driving.
Be careful, because when you press the brake pedal, the car will continue to pull forward, because the clutch is not pressed in any way. Therefore, to stop, you must either first try to turn off the first gear (catch the revs when it turns off without jamming), then brake, or just turn off the car.
Gear shift
To change gear without the clutch, it is important to catch the revs at which it switches with ease. This method is also called the inclusion of gears "gratuitously". After some time of holding the gas, you can suddenly release it and while the speed falls, try to switch. But do not push the lever by force, if you crunch and make a wrong movement with the lever, the box may become unusable.
Therefore, move the lever smoothly, you yourself will feel when the gears have the necessary revolutions for engagement, the lever can even engage the gear itself if you press it a little in its direction. At the same time, sharpness may be required to switch. If you catch the required revs and the gear itself does not engage, you need to sharply, but not strongly try to switch it. When you get used to it, it will work out.
The most important thing here is to reduce the number of gear changes to a minimum, that is, if, for example, go very far along the highway, then you can accelerate according to the gear scheme 1-3-5 or 1-2-4. And yet - it is better to get there in 2-3 gear than to unsuccessfully stick in the 4th, thereby damaging the box. If you successfully shift to 4-5 gear, try to calculate the speed based on the road situation so that you do not have to brake or switch too much. Be extremely careful and careful!
Gear Shift Moments
Never switch off the car when the gear is engaged at high speed! Because without a clutch, this can cause irreversible consequences, such as breakdown of gearbox mechanisms, engine, and a very high probability of an accident, skidding or overturning of the car! Therefore, in order to brake at high speed, be sure to in advance disengage the gear (catch the revs for painless disengagement of the gear) and put the lever in neutral position, then roll as much as you like, the brake pedal will work as it should, even with the car running.
The gears are disengaged to the neutral position in the same way as they are engaged - it is important to find the revolutions at which the lever will go into neutral without effort.
Well, now you know how to determine the cause of a pedal failure, you know what could have broken down, and how to get to your destination even without a clutch. The main thing is not to rush, first sit down and think things over. Something tells me that the information I gave you will help you make a quick decision in a seemingly difficult situation. Successfully fix your car! (And start serving his nodes on time)
Symptoms: the clutch pedal has become soft and periodically "falls through".
Possible reason: Air in the hydraulic clutch.
Instruments: elastic tube, container, set of keys.
Foreword. a sign of air entering the hydraulic clutch release drive is incomplete clutch release when the pedal is fully depressed, accompanied by a characteristic grinding of gears. In this case, it is often enough just to pump the hydraulic actuator.
In addition to the aforementioned bleeding of the hydraulic drive for disengaging the clutch, it is required when filling the system with working fluid after replacing it, or when repairing drive units associated with disconnecting hoses and pipelines.
1. Check the level of the brake fluid in the reservoir of the main brake cylinder and bring it up to normal, if necessary.
Note. the reservoir of the main brake cylinder is also a power supply for the drive system of the hydraulic clutch release drive.
2. Remove the protective cap from the clutch slave cylinder valve for bleeding.
3. Connect a hose or elastic tube to the bleed valve, the other end of which is placed in a transparent container with a small amount of brake fluid. After that, the assistant should press the clutch pedal four to five times at intervals of two to three seconds, and then keep the pedal depressed. Unscrew the valve 75% (three-quarters of a full turn). After that, brake fluid containing air bubbles will begin to flow out of the hose.
4. Screw on the valve. Then the assistant should release the clutch pedal.
5. Repeat the operations described in points No. 3 and No. 4 of this manual until a clean brake fluid that does not contain air bubbles begins to flow out of the hose.
Note. check the level regularly when bleeding the hydraulic clutch release working fluid in the tank and do not let it fall below the minimum level mark (below twenty-five millimeters from the bottom of the tank). Do not forget to add fluid to the system, as draining the bottom of the reservoir of the master brake cylinder will lead to re-entry of air into the system, and, accordingly, bleeding the hydraulic clutch release will have to be repeated again.
6. Screw on the air release valve of the hydraulic clutch release system, put on the protective cap and add brake fluid to the reservoir of the brake master cylinder, if necessary.
Pavel Kurakin Motorist
A car is a complex mechanism in which and from time to time break down. Anything can break: from the usual blown fuses to more serious breakdowns associated with a transmission malfunction in a car. One of the rather serious problems is considered to be a clutch malfunction. How does it manifest itself? The first signs of impending problems with the clutch in the car are characterized by the stiffness of the pedal; much more effort is required to squeeze it out. Next stage- this is a direct failure - the clutch pedal has failed, there is no reverse movement.
Failure of the clutch pedal to the floor is a common problem for car owners.
Causes and methods of troubleshooting
One of the fairly common problems is a cable break. It breaks most often near the tip, much less often somewhere in the middle.
What to do if the cable is broken? If you don't have a spare with you, you won't be able to solve this problem on the spot. You need to get to the nearest service.
Failure of the pedal can also cause breakage of the return spring. If the spring has fallen off, then you can install it in place. But if it broke, then repair on the road is almost impossible, since the spring will need to be replaced.
Breakage of the inclusion plug, which will have to be changed, can also cause the pedal to fall through.
A hydraulic problem is another reason the clutch pedal fails. For example, one of the pipes that leads has burst or is leaking. In order to understand that this is the problem, it is enough to check the brake fluid level. If there is not enough liquid, you can add it and try to start the car. In the case when the liquid just leaks, you can easily get home or to the service station, where you can replace the hose.
The problem of inoperability can be hidden in the clutch cylinder itself.
It is quite easy to understand that the defect is in it. If the pedal is "soft" and you can only squeeze it out by pressing it hard, then the root cause is in the main cylinder, which will need to be changed.
How to get to a car service with a broken clutch?
If the clutch fails, the easiest and safest way to get to the nearest service station is to call a tow truck or a tugboat. it is better not even to try to risk starting and starting movement with such a malfunction. This can lead to a breakdown of the gearbox, and this is already much more serious, and much more expensive in terms of repair costs.
When are you sure of own forces, then the first thing is to try to start the car. If you feel that the clutch has failed, do not put the car down a hill. It is better that you are on a flat road or perfect option- started moving from the hill. It is necessary to start. When turning the ignition, you must simultaneously gently press the gas pedal. In this case, the car will not stall, but will go jerkily, since the revolutions do not correspond to the speed of movement. After that, you can begin to move slowly. It is very important to think over the path so that there are a minimum number of stops along the way. After all, you just won't be able to stop the car, you have to turn off the engine. And the procedure for starting the engine will need to be repeated. It is also not recommended to change gears, as this can damage the gearbox.
With the help of a tow truck, you can easily and safely deliver a car to a car service To stop the car, you just need to turn off the engine or, if the rpm is high, squeeze it out first.
It is also extremely important to be very careful when driving with a broken clutch. It is better to drive along the main road so that you have to give way less. Must be avoided pedestrian crossings, unnecessary maneuvers. And one more thing, so that other participants understand that you have a malfunction, it is better to go with the emergency light on.
And finally
It is important to remember that the root cause of clutch problems is usually the chauffeur, or rather his driving style. If he tries to start moving with a slip, or does not release the pedal while driving, this will eventually lead to its breakdown, to the stalling of the pedal. In order to diagnose clutch problems at the initial stages and eliminate the malfunction in advance, you need to monitor its operation. Unusual noise, deterioration of pedal stiffness or incomprehensible vibration, jerking - all these are signs of a malfunctioning clutch.
